Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Most of the UV blockers are not safe on most plastics. That's a
generalization. YMMV.

We had UV blockers made from Sunbrella. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 May 2017 at 10:29, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
wrote:

> What do you do to protect thenewly polished surface from further sun and
> UV damage.  I'm thinking of adding a UV blocking film
>
> On 5/12/2017 12:27 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected.
>
> Novus #2 is specifically designed for acrylics and polycarbonates and
> costs much less than the proprietary "headlight polishes". I use it
> regularly to remove surface scratching and hazing from portlights and Lexan
> dodger windows.
>
> If you have deeper scratches, you can use Novus #3, but if you use it too
> hard you can create "lensing" on the plastic.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 12 May 2017 at 08:24, Harvey Barth via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that appear
>> on older hatches?
>> Harvey
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the
>> early 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit paper to get the
>> scratches out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. I usually
>> start with 1000 or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come out. I
>> then use 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on
>> to polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses.  I
>> have done this many times on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft
>> windscreens. I did it ones on my boat. Now I just take plexiglass polish
>> three times a year to it.
>>
>> Good luck
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
>> ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Whitmore via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
>> *To:* C List
>> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now
>> to try it on our companionway hatches...
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>>
>>
>> Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look
>> fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading
>> here and other places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a
>> test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap
>> plexiglass.  Starting with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new
>> piece of plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and
>> 2000, then went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for
>> headlights.
>>
>>
>>
>> Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.
>>
>>
>>
>> So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here
>> cautions me otherwise.
>>
>>
>>
>> What say you wise folks?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous - June, 2017 - St. Georges Bermuda

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

David;

 

When will you be arriving in and departing from Bermuda?

 

Imzadi will be coming over on the Rally to the Cup, and our ETA is late on
June 15 or early June 16. We'll be staying at the St. George's Dinghy Club.
Fred Street and Jim Schwartz from the C list are among my crew.

 

I thought I'd see if our times in Bermuda might overlap, and we might get
together for a Dark & Stormy.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2016 1:39 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C Rendezvous - June, 2017 - St. Georges Bermuda

 

Corsair will be racing there again in the Marion Bermuda Race.  Great
events, observation boat  and dockage at the Royal Hamilton Amateur Dinghy
Club. 

http://www.marionbermuda.com/

We have a mentoring program to help folks prepare for the race...

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



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Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Hi Tom

Consider replacing the wire/rope with dyneema/whateversuitsyou and changing
the masthead sheaves.

I did. Sheaves from Zephyr. Amazing service and what a quality product. They
came with a bronze bushing and fitted perfectly. If you need dimensions, let
me know.

John

LF38

 

 

 

From: Tom Lochhaas [mailto:toml...@gmail.com] 
Sent: May-12-17 4:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

 

Hi, experts!

It's time to replace my main halyard on my LF38. The original is
wire-to-rope, and I plan to replace with the same (3/16 7X19 wire, 7/16
doublebraid). I have noted that the halyard sheave at the masthead is quite
small and narrow - for wire only - meaning the halyard could jam if the rope
part (or likely, the transition from wire to rope section) had to pass over
it. Therefore it seems the only way to safely do this (no desire to climb
the mast) would be to (1) raise the halyard up (with a line on the sail head
shackle) to the point where wire is exiting the mast at the bottom, (2) cut
the old wire here or near where it joins the old rope, 3) attach the
shackle-end of the new wire halyard to the tail-end (cut) of the old wire,
and (4) carefully pull downward on the old wire outside to bring the new
wire up inside the mast and over the sheave and down where I will either
swage a thimble for the shackle or use a swageless fitting.

First, I don't see any other logical way to do this, and it should be pretty
simple as long as the two wires are well connected in a smooth slim way so
that nothing gets hung up inside the mast or on the sheave.

Second, I'm thinking it's better to temporarily join the two wire ends than
to attach a messenger first to remove the old halyard, and then a second
messenger attachment to install the new halyard. Either way, a messenger
line or the new wire has to be connected to the old wire, so why not do this
just once rather than twice with twice the risk of something happening.

Let me know if you see any fallacies or problems in my thinking so far. 

So the question I face is how best to temporarily make a "butt joint" of two
wire ends for pulling the new halyard through the mast? I know how to do
this with rope, which can be stitched together and then taped, so that the
tape itself is taking the full burden, but you can't "stitch" 7X19 wire as
easily. (Or maybe one can? Twist it open a bit to sneak a flexible wire or
strong thin line through and then twist it back to shape and hope the wire's
flexibility and shape haven't been altered, and repeat with the other wire
end, then tape?) Could I risk a good tape by itself holding the ends
together? (There seems to be no friction at all inside the mast - I'm just
concerned with getting the "joint" over the sheave smoothly.) Or maybe tape
and then wrap over the tape very tightly with a thin waxed line? Any great
ideas on the safest way to do this?

Thanks!

Tom Lochhaas

1980 LF38 Topanga II

Newburyport, MAÂ 

 

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Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I replaced the wire-rope halyards on both my 25 and my 38 with all rope. No 
problem with the sheeves on either. And I stitched a messemger line to the end 
of the rope, pulled out the old halyard, stitched the messenger to the end of 
the new halyard, and pulled it down through the mast. Easy-Peesy.

 

And as a  bonus, if you still have the oversized halyards made of yacht braid, 
you can switch to a modern line and go down a size or two on the diameter.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 4:38 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

 

I used electrical tape.  I can't recall any drama from exchanging the halyards.

 

I changed from wire-rope to all rope.  I recommend that you consider doing the 
same.  The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the mast.  When it 
starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and even more damaging.  
The wire was used because of its low stretch properties but now with modern 
fibers you can accomplish the same and reduce the weight aloft.  With all rope 
you can filp the line end for end or freshen up the shackle end. 

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ

 

As for the sheeve.  Since it was made for a rope-wire it is likely that it will 
accommodate an all rope halyard.  My sheeve was a v-groove which facilitated my 
wire or rope up to 7/16" or 1/2".

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 136, Issue 65

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

You can buy a 3/8" mid tech line like MLX Samson or Novabraid Argus and strip 
(taper) the cover to Match the wire rope length of the original.  A 3/8" 
blended core line will out perform the Dacron halyard with regards to strength 
and stretch and the narrow core will work in your wire sheave as long as the 
sheave isn't completely chewed up by worn out wire.
The cost of Splicing wire to rope will offset the cost of the more expensive 
rope.  And the entire halyard will weigh half as much and reducing weight aloft 
is always a good thing for racing or cruising.
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2017, at 5:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You could try a two part all rope halyard.  Some 1/4 inch Dyneema stuffed 
> onto 3/8 or 7/16 StaSet or some other combination.  Luggage tag eye or 
> regular eye on the Dyneema for the shackle.  Would probably clear the sheaves 
> in the masthead.
> 
> That's what I'll replace Touche' current wire/rope halyard with.
> 
> I've got two part spin sheets and love them.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 4:12 PM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Thanks, Josh, but I'm 95% sure the sheave on my 1980 LF38 is only for wire. 
>> My telephoto shot of the wire in the sheave shows the total sheave width at 
>> the lip is slightly less than twice the width of the 3/16 wire passing 
>> through it, so I'm pretty sure a 7/16 rope in that space would either jam up 
>> or chafe outside the normal sheave use area. I did want to go to all rope, 
>> but I can't mes with trying to change the sheave just now, which I believe 
>> would bring its own difficulties. I did think about using a rope diameter 
>> less than the present 7/16, but that seems right for hand feel plus my 
>> halyard winch is self-tailing and a smaller diameter wouldn't fit well. The 
>> sheave seems only for wire (the rope part in the halyard tail never goes up 
>> that high to reach the sheave).
>> 
>>> On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 4:38 PM,  wrote:
>>> From: Josh Muckley 
>>> To: "C List" 
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 16:37:35 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>>> I used electrical tape.  I can't recall any drama from exchanging the 
>>> halyards.
>>> 
>>> I changed from wire-rope to all rope.  I recommend that you consider doing 
>>> the same.  The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the mast.  
>>> When it starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and even more 
>>> damaging.  The wire was used because of its low stretch properties but now 
>>> with modern fibers you can accomplish the same and reduce the weight aloft. 
>>>  With all rope you can filp the line end for end or freshen up the shackle 
>>> end. 
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ
>>> 
>>> As for the sheeve.  Since it was made for a rope-wire it is likely that it 
>>> will accommodate an all rope halyard.  My sheeve was a v-groove which 
>>> facilitated my wire or rope up to 7/16" or 1/2".
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Tom Lochhaas
>> 11 Summer St.
>> Newburyport, MA 01950
>> mobile 508.517.6926
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Normally, I use 3mm parachute cord for connecting new/old halyards, etc.
However, a connector that is often overlooked is dental floss.  My rigger
buddy and I use it frequently for tight clearance sheaves.  Makes a small
splice that will pass through narrow spaces.  A caution, it will be
slippery on wire so put a LOT of half hitches and wrap tightly with tape.
Again, keep the splice small.
Also, make absolutely certain to keep tension on the lines to keep the
floss on the sheave.  If there is a gap between the new and old lines,
there is a risk that the floss will go off the sheave and get caught
between the sheave and the sheave fitting.  That sucks.

Also helps to lubricate the tape.  We use TefGel but soap or detergent
should work.

Sucks to lose a splice and have to go aloft to re-feed a halyard when you
can do it all from the deck.

Dennis C.

On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 3:37 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used electrical tape.  I can't recall any drama from exchanging the
> halyards.
>
> I changed from wire-rope to all rope.  I recommend that you consider doing
> the same.  The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the mast.
> When it starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and even more
> damaging.  The wire was used because of its low stretch properties but now
> with modern fibers you can accomplish the same and reduce the weight
> aloft.  With all rope you can filp the line end for end or freshen up the
> shackle end.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ
>
> As for the sheeve.  Since it was made for a rope-wire it is likely that it
> will accommodate an all rope halyard.  My sheeve was a v-groove which
> facilitated my wire or rope up to 7/16" or 1/2".
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On May 12, 2017 3:31 PM, "Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi, experts!
>> It's time to replace my main halyard on my LF38. The original is
>> wire-to-rope, and I plan to replace with the same (3/16 7X19 wire, 7/16
>> doublebraid). I have noted that the halyard sheave at the masthead is quite
>> small and narrow - for wire only - meaning the halyard could jam if the
>> rope part (or likely, the transition from wire to rope section) had to pass
>> over it. Therefore it seems the only way to safely do this (no desire to
>> climb the mast) would be to (1) raise the halyard up (with a line on the
>> sail head shackle) to the point where wire is exiting the mast at the
>> bottom, (2) cut the old wire here or near where it joins the old rope, 3)
>> attach the shackle-end of the new wire halyard to the tail-end (cut) of the
>> old wire, and (4) carefully pull downward on the old wire outside to bring
>> the new wire up inside the mast and over the sheave and down where I will
>> either swage a thimble for the shackle or use a swageless fitting.
>> First, I don't see any other logical way to do this, and it should be
>> pretty simple as long as the two wires are well connected in a smooth slim
>> way so that nothing gets hung up inside the mast or on the sheave.
>> Second, I'm thinking it's better to temporarily join the two wire ends
>> than to attach a messenger first to remove the old halyard, and then a
>> second messenger attachment to install the new halyard. Either way, a
>> messenger line or the new wire has to be connected to the old wire, so why
>> not do this just once rather than twice with twice the risk of something
>> happening.
>> Let me know if you see any fallacies or problems in my thinking so far.
>> So the question I face is how best to temporarily make a "butt joint" of
>> two wire ends for pulling the new halyard through the mast? I know how to
>> do this with rope, which can be stitched together and then taped, so that
>> the tape itself is taking the full burden, but you can't "stitch" 7X19 wire
>> as easily. (Or maybe one can? Twist it open a bit to sneak a flexible wire
>> or strong thin line through and then twist it back to shape and hope the
>> wire's flexibility and shape haven't been altered, and repeat with the
>> other wire end, then tape?) Could I risk a good tape by itself holding the
>> ends together? (There seems to be no friction at all inside the mast - I'm
>> just concerned with getting the "joint" over the sheave smoothly.) Or maybe
>> tape and then wrap over the tape very tightly with a thin waxed line? Any
>> great ideas on the safest way to do this?
>> Thanks!
>> Tom Lochhaas
>> 1980 LF38 Topanga II
>> Newburyport, MA
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 136, Issue 65

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You could try a two part all rope halyard.  Some 1/4 inch Dyneema stuffed
onto 3/8 or 7/16 StaSet or some other combination.  Luggage tag eye or
regular eye on the Dyneema for the shackle.  Would probably clear the
sheaves in the masthead.

That's what I'll replace Touche' current wire/rope halyard with.

I've got two part spin sheets and love them.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 4:12 PM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Josh, but I'm 95% sure the sheave on my 1980 LF38 is only for
> wire. My telephoto shot of the wire in the sheave shows the total sheave
> width at the lip is slightly less than twice the width of the 3/16 wire
> passing through it, so I'm pretty sure a 7/16 rope in that space would
> either jam up or chafe outside the normal sheave use area. I did want to go
> to all rope, but I can't mes with trying to change the sheave just now,
> which I believe would bring its own difficulties. I did think about using a
> rope diameter less than the present 7/16, but that seems right for hand
> feel plus my halyard winch is self-tailing and a smaller diameter wouldn't
> fit well. The sheave seems only for wire (the rope part in the halyard tail
> never goes up that high to reach the sheave).
>
> On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 4:38 PM,  wrote:
>
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 16:37:35 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
>> I used electrical tape.  I can't recall any drama from exchanging the
>> halyards.
>>
>> I changed from wire-rope to all rope.  I recommend that you consider
>> doing the same.  The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the
>> mast.  When it starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and
>> even more damaging.  The wire was used because of its low stretch
>> properties but now with modern fibers you can accomplish the same and
>> reduce the weight aloft.  With all rope you can filp the line end for end
>> or freshen up the shackle end.
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ
>>
>> As for the sheeve.  Since it was made for a rope-wire it is likely that
>> it will accommodate an all rope halyard.  My sheeve was a v-groove which
>> facilitated my wire or rope up to 7/16" or 1/2".
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>
>
>
> Tom Lochhaas
> 11 Summer St.
> Newburyport, MA 01950
> mobile 508.517.6926 <(508)%20517-6926>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 136, Issue 65

[Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List]

Thanks, Josh, but I'm 95% sure the sheave on my 1980 LF38 is only for wire.
My telephoto shot of the wire in the sheave shows the total sheave width at
the lip is slightly less than twice the width of the 3/16 wire passing
through it, so I'm pretty sure a 7/16 rope in that space would either jam
up or chafe outside the normal sheave use area. I did want to go to all
rope, but I can't mes with trying to change the sheave just now, which I
believe would bring its own difficulties. I did think about using a rope
diameter less than the present 7/16, but that seems right for hand feel
plus my halyard winch is self-tailing and a smaller diameter wouldn't fit
well. The sheave seems only for wire (the rope part in the halyard tail
never goes up that high to reach the sheave).

On Fri, May 12, 2017 at 4:38 PM,  wrote:

> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C List" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 16:37:35 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard
> I used electrical tape.  I can't recall any drama from exchanging the
> halyards.
>
> I changed from wire-rope to all rope.  I recommend that you consider doing
> the same.  The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the mast.
> When it starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and even more
> damaging.  The wire was used because of its low stretch properties but now
> with modern fibers you can accomplish the same and reduce the weight
> aloft.  With all rope you can filp the line end for end or freshen up the
> shackle end.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ
>
> As for the sheeve.  Since it was made for a rope-wire it is likely that it
> will accommodate an all rope halyard.  My sheeve was a v-groove which
> facilitated my wire or rope up to 7/16" or 1/2".
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>



Tom Lochhaas
11 Summer St.
Newburyport, MA 01950
mobile 508.517.6926
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Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Hi Tom, 10 years ago when I replaced my wire to rope halyards. I went with 7/16 
cos yacht braid and have had no issues. Never changed the sheeves. The main 
does make some noise now and then. But the next owner needs some projects. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/12/17  12:30  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Lochhaas  Subject: Stus-List 
Messenger line to wire halyard 
Hi, experts!It's time to replace my main halyard on my LF38. The original is 
wire-to-rope, and I plan to replace with the same (3/16 7X19 wire, 7/16 
doublebraid). I have noted that the halyard sheave at the masthead is quite 
small and narrow - for wire only - meaning the halyard could jam if the rope 
part (or likely, the transition from wire to rope section) had to pass over it. 
Therefore it seems the only way to safely do this (no desire to climb the mast) 
would be to (1) raise the halyard up (with a line on the sail head shackle) to 
the point where wire is exiting the mast at the bottom, (2) cut the old wire 
here or near where it joins the old rope, 3) attach the shackle-end of the new 
wire halyard to the tail-end (cut) of the old wire, and (4) carefully pull 
downward on the old wire outside to bring the new wire up inside the mast and 
over the sheave and down where I will either swage a thimble for the shackle or 
use a swageless fitting.First, I don't see any other logical way to do this, 
and it should be pretty simple as long as the two wires are well connected in a 
smooth slim way so that nothing gets hung up inside the mast or on the 
sheave.Second, I'm thinking it's better to temporarily join the two wire ends 
than to attach a messenger first to remove the old halyard, and then a second 
messenger attachment to install the new halyard. Either way, a messenger line 
or the new wire has to be connected to the old wire, so why not do this just 
once rather than twice with twice the risk of something happening.Let me know 
if you see any fallacies or problems in my thinking so far. So the question I 
face is how best to temporarily make a "butt joint" of two wire ends for 
pulling the new halyard through the mast? I know how to do this with rope, 
which can be stitched together and then taped, so that the tape itself is 
taking the full burden, but you can't "stitch" 7X19 wire as easily. (Or maybe 
one can? Twist it open a bit to sneak a flexible wire or strong thin line 
through and then twist it back to shape and hope the wire's flexibility and 
shape haven't been altered, and repeat with the other wire end, then tape?) 
Could I risk a good tape by itself holding the ends together? (There seems to 
be no friction at all inside the mast - I'm just concerned with getting the 
"joint" over the sheave smoothly.) Or maybe tape and then wrap over the tape 
very tightly with a thin waxed line? Any great ideas on the safest way to do 
this?Thanks!Tom Lochhaas
1980 LF38 Topanga IINewburyport, MA 



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I used electrical tape.  I can't recall any drama from exchanging the
halyards.

I changed from wire-rope to all rope.  I recommend that you consider doing
the same.  The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the mast.
When it starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and even more
damaging.  The wire was used because of its low stretch properties but now
with modern fibers you can accomplish the same and reduce the weight
aloft.  With all rope you can filp the line end for end or freshen up the
shackle end.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ

As for the sheeve.  Since it was made for a rope-wire it is likely that it
will accommodate an all rope halyard.  My sheeve was a v-groove which
facilitated my wire or rope up to 7/16" or 1/2".

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 12, 2017 3:31 PM, "Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi, experts!
> It's time to replace my main halyard on my LF38. The original is
> wire-to-rope, and I plan to replace with the same (3/16 7X19 wire, 7/16
> doublebraid). I have noted that the halyard sheave at the masthead is quite
> small and narrow - for wire only - meaning the halyard could jam if the
> rope part (or likely, the transition from wire to rope section) had to pass
> over it. Therefore it seems the only way to safely do this (no desire to
> climb the mast) would be to (1) raise the halyard up (with a line on the
> sail head shackle) to the point where wire is exiting the mast at the
> bottom, (2) cut the old wire here or near where it joins the old rope, 3)
> attach the shackle-end of the new wire halyard to the tail-end (cut) of the
> old wire, and (4) carefully pull downward on the old wire outside to bring
> the new wire up inside the mast and over the sheave and down where I will
> either swage a thimble for the shackle or use a swageless fitting.
> First, I don't see any other logical way to do this, and it should be
> pretty simple as long as the two wires are well connected in a smooth slim
> way so that nothing gets hung up inside the mast or on the sheave.
> Second, I'm thinking it's better to temporarily join the two wire ends
> than to attach a messenger first to remove the old halyard, and then a
> second messenger attachment to install the new halyard. Either way, a
> messenger line or the new wire has to be connected to the old wire, so why
> not do this just once rather than twice with twice the risk of something
> happening.
> Let me know if you see any fallacies or problems in my thinking so far.
> So the question I face is how best to temporarily make a "butt joint" of
> two wire ends for pulling the new halyard through the mast? I know how to
> do this with rope, which can be stitched together and then taped, so that
> the tape itself is taking the full burden, but you can't "stitch" 7X19 wire
> as easily. (Or maybe one can? Twist it open a bit to sneak a flexible wire
> or strong thin line through and then twist it back to shape and hope the
> wire's flexibility and shape haven't been altered, and repeat with the
> other wire end, then tape?) Could I risk a good tape by itself holding the
> ends together? (There seems to be no friction at all inside the mast - I'm
> just concerned with getting the "joint" over the sheave smoothly.) Or maybe
> tape and then wrap over the tape very tightly with a thin waxed line? Any
> great ideas on the safest way to do this?
> Thanks!
> Tom Lochhaas
> 1980 LF38 Topanga II
> Newburyport, MA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Thanks Jim for your insights.  Novus is arriving today via Amazon.  I heard the 
recommendation load and clear!

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On May 12, 2017, at 12:27 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected. 
> 
> Novus #2 is specifically designed for acrylics and polycarbonates and costs 
> much less than the proprietary "headlight polishes". I use it regularly to 
> remove surface scratching and hazing from portlights and Lexan dodger 
> windows. 
> 
> If you have deeper scratches, you can use Novus #3, but if you use it too 
> hard you can create "lensing" on the plastic. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 12 May 2017 at 08:24, Harvey Barth via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that appear on 
>> older hatches?
>> Harvey
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Bruce
>>> 
>>> You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the early 
>>> 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit paper to get the 
>>> scratches out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. I usually 
>>> start with 1000 or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come out. I 
>>> then use 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on 
>>> to polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses.  I 
>>> have done this many times on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft 
>>> windscreens. I did it ones on my boat. Now I just take plexiglass polish 
>>> three times a year to it.
>>> 
>>> Good luck
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
>>> Whitmore via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
>>> To: C List
>>> Cc: Bruce Whitmore
>>> Subject: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to 
>>> try it on our companionway hatches...
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look 
>>> fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading 
>>> here and other places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a 
>>> test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap 
>>> plexiglass.  Starting with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new 
>>> piece of plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 
>>> 2000, then went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for 
>>> headlights. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here 
>>> cautions me otherwise.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> What say you wise folks?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>> 
>>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard

[Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List]

Hi, experts!
It's time to replace my main halyard on my LF38. The original is
wire-to-rope, and I plan to replace with the same (3/16 7X19 wire, 7/16
doublebraid). I have noted that the halyard sheave at the masthead is quite
small and narrow - for wire only - meaning the halyard could jam if the
rope part (or likely, the transition from wire to rope section) had to pass
over it. Therefore it seems the only way to safely do this (no desire to
climb the mast) would be to (1) raise the halyard up (with a line on the
sail head shackle) to the point where wire is exiting the mast at the
bottom, (2) cut the old wire here or near where it joins the old rope, 3)
attach the shackle-end of the new wire halyard to the tail-end (cut) of the
old wire, and (4) carefully pull downward on the old wire outside to bring
the new wire up inside the mast and over the sheave and down where I will
either swage a thimble for the shackle or use a swageless fitting.
First, I don't see any other logical way to do this, and it should be
pretty simple as long as the two wires are well connected in a smooth slim
way so that nothing gets hung up inside the mast or on the sheave.
Second, I'm thinking it's better to temporarily join the two wire ends than
to attach a messenger first to remove the old halyard, and then a second
messenger attachment to install the new halyard. Either way, a messenger
line or the new wire has to be connected to the old wire, so why not do
this just once rather than twice with twice the risk of something happening.
Let me know if you see any fallacies or problems in my thinking so far.
So the question I face is how best to temporarily make a "butt joint" of
two wire ends for pulling the new halyard through the mast? I know how to
do this with rope, which can be stitched together and then taped, so that
the tape itself is taking the full burden, but you can't "stitch" 7X19 wire
as easily. (Or maybe one can? Twist it open a bit to sneak a flexible wire
or strong thin line through and then twist it back to shape and hope the
wire's flexibility and shape haven't been altered, and repeat with the
other wire end, then tape?) Could I risk a good tape by itself holding the
ends together? (There seems to be no friction at all inside the mast - I'm
just concerned with getting the "joint" over the sheave smoothly.) Or maybe
tape and then wrap over the tape very tightly with a thin waxed line? Any
great ideas on the safest way to do this?
Thanks!
Tom Lochhaas
1980 LF38 Topanga II
Newburyport, MA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass -

[robert via CnC-List]

Jim
Where do you buy your Novus #2

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-12 1:27 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:

Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected.

Novus #2 is specifically designed for acrylics and polycarbonates and 
costs much less than the proprietary "headlight polishes". I use it 
regularly to remove surface scratching and hazing from portlights and 
Lexan dodger windows.


If you have deeper scratches, you can use Novus #3, but if you use it 
too hard you can create "lensing" on the plastic.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 May 2017 at 08:24, Harvey Barth via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that
appear on older hatches?
Harvey

Sent from my iPhone

On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List
> wrote:


Bruce

You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since
the early 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit
paper to get the scratches out, so as to remove the minimum
amount of material. I usually start with 1000 or 800 grit to
determine if the scratches will come out. I then use 1200, 1500,
2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on to
polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for
eyeglasses. I have done this many times on motorcycle windscreens
and aircraft windscreens. I did it ones on my boat. Now I just
take plexiglass polish three times a year to it.

Good luck

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
Whitmore via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
*To:* C List
*Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
*Subject:* Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home
test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

Hello all,

Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches
that look fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of
sun.  After reading here and other places about potential ways of
curing the issue, I ran a test here at home. I have a Ryobi
Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting
with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of
plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200
and 2000, then went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's
polish for headlights.

Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone
here cautions me otherwise.

What say you wise folks?

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092  (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

What do you do to protect thenewly polished surface from further sun and 
UV damage.  I'm thinking of adding a UV blocking film



On 5/12/2017 12:27 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:

Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected.

Novus #2 is specifically designed for acrylics and polycarbonates and 
costs much less than the proprietary "headlight polishes". I use it 
regularly to remove surface scratching and hazing from portlights and 
Lexan dodger windows.


If you have deeper scratches, you can use Novus #3, but if you use it 
too hard you can create "lensing" on the plastic.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 May 2017 at 08:24, Harvey Barth via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that
appear on older hatches?
Harvey

Sent from my iPhone

On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List
> wrote:


Bruce

You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since
the early 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit
paper to get the scratches out, so as to remove the minimum
amount of material. I usually start with 1000 or 800 grit to
determine if the scratches will come out. I then use 1200, 1500,
2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on to
polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for
eyeglasses. I have done this many times on motorcycle windscreens
and aircraft windscreens. I did it ones on my boat. Now I just
take plexiglass polish three times a year to it.

Good luck

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
Whitmore via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
*To:* C List
*Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
*Subject:* Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home
test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

Hello all,

Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches
that look fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of
sun.  After reading here and other places about potential ways of
curing the issue, I ran a test here at home. I have a Ryobi
Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting
with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of
plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200
and 2000, then went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's
polish for headlights.

Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone
here cautions me otherwise.

What say you wise folks?

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092  (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Stainless Steel Exhaust Kit for Yanmar 3HM35F

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I bought one and it was fine. Came with gasket.  Jerry J

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2017, at 11:48 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with the stainless steel exhaust elbows 
> available on e-Bay such as:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GMKit-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Kit-Replaces-Yanmar-GM-124070-13520-/332179494684?hash=item4d5770d71c:g:hBsAAOSw3KFWeqXI=mtr
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List So it works for Plexiglass, does it work for eisenglass?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Depends on what your dodger is fitted with. The polishes will not work on
vinyl. Our dodger has Lexan front windows and vinyl side windows, I only
use it on the Lexan.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 May 2017 at 08:39, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
wrote:

> In other words, can I get the scuffs off the eisenglass on my dodger with
> really fine sand paper followed by compound and polish?
>
> Dan Sheer
> Pegathy - LF 38, Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected.

Novus #2 is specifically designed for acrylics and polycarbonates and costs
much less than the proprietary "headlight polishes". I use it regularly to
remove surface scratching and hazing from portlights and Lexan dodger
windows.

If you have deeper scratches, you can use Novus #3, but if you use it too
hard you can create "lensing" on the plastic.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 May 2017 at 08:24, Harvey Barth via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that appear
> on older hatches?
> Harvey
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Bruce
>
> You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the
> early 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit paper to get the
> scratches out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. I usually
> start with 1000 or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come out. I
> then use 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on
> to polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses.  I
> have done this many times on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft
> windscreens. I did it ones on my boat. Now I just take plexiglass polish
> three times a year to it.
>
> Good luck
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Whitmore via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now
> to try it on our companionway hatches...
>
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
>
> Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look
> fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading
> here and other places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a
> test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap
> plexiglass.  Starting with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new
> piece of plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and
> 2000, then went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for
> headlights.
>
>
>
> Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.
>
>
>
> So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here
> cautions me otherwise.
>
>
>
> What say you wise folks?
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

My understanding (and it seems intuitive to me) is that crazing will not come 
out, as the cracks go too deep.  This is to address fogging and fine scratches 
usually caused by UV damage and minor scuffs.
 Bruce Whitmore
1994 37/40+
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Harvey Barth via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Harvey Barth 
 Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 11:24 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to 
try it on our companionway hatches...
   
Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that appear on 
older hatches?Harvey

Sent from my iPhone
On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List  wrote:



#yiv6194105248 #yiv6194105248 -- _filtered #yiv6194105248 
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{}#yiv6194105248 BruceYou are doing it correctly. I have worked with 
“Plexiglass” since the early 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit 
paper to get the scratches out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. 
I usually start with 1000 or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come 
out. I then use 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving 
on to polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses.  I 
have done this many times on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft windscreens. I 
did it ones on my boat. Now I just take plexiglass polish three times a year to 
it. Good luck  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it 
on our companionway hatches...  Hello all,  Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass 
sliding companionway hatches that look fogged and lightly scratched all over 
from years of sun.  After reading here and other places about potential ways of 
curing the issue, I ran a test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and 
grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I 
wet sanded the nice new piece of plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then 
followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then went to buffing compound, and finally to 
McGuire's polish for headlights.    Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came 
out really nice & clear.    So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards 
unless someone here cautions me otherwise.  What say you wise folks? Bruce 
Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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   ___

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Stus-List C mk 1 rudder replacement

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

Here in Havre de Grace MD there is a marina that once sold C My 37/40
needed a rudder rebuild. The owner recalled having a spare in his
warehouse. Alas it was not for a 37/40. It may be for a 35. Give Havre de
Grace Marina a call and ask for Chris.
http://www.hdgmarinecenter.com/

Let me know how it works out.
La Neige
1993 37/40 xl
HdG MD
Brian and Manon
thenext14years on FB
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Stus-List Stainless Steel Exhaust Kit for Yanmar 3HM35F

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Has anyone had any experience with the stainless steel exhaust elbows
available on e-Bay such as:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GMKit-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Kit-Replaces-Yanmar-GM-124070-13520-/332179494684?hash=item4d5770d71c:g:hBsAAOSw3KFWeqXI=mtr

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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Stus-List So it works for Plexiglass, does it work for eisenglass?

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

In other words, can I get the scuffs off the eisenglass on my dodger with 
really fine sand paper followed by compound and polish?
Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38, Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Harvey Barth via CnC-List]

Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that appear on 
older hatches?
Harvey

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Bruce
> You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the early 
> 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit paper to get the scratches 
> out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. I usually start with 
> 1000 or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come out. I then use 
> 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on to 
> polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses.  I have 
> done this many times on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft windscreens. I 
> did it ones on my boat. Now I just take plexiglass polish three times a year 
> to it.
> Good luck
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
> Whitmore via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
> To: C List
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore
> Subject: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try 
> it on our companionway hatches...
>  
> Hello all,
>  
> Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look 
> fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading here 
> and other places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a test here 
> at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass. 
>  Starting with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of 
> plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then 
> went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for headlights. 
>  
> Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear. 
>  
> So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here 
> cautions me otherwise.
>  
> What say you wise folks?
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

+1 for checking the clearance between the aft of the mast and the mast collar.
If the forestay is loose the top of the mast may be slightly forward.

Going by mast rake is difficult unless the boat is floating to spec. You can 
take an
initial reading with a digital level by comparing something that may be level 
such
as the coamings and the mast.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 12:40:18 + 

From: "Hoyt, Mike"  


Hi Dave 
 
Is it possible that there is a mast step adjustment and the step has been moved 
aft further than desired? 
 
Have you tried running the main halyard aft and tightening the halyard?  
Attaching it to an aft cleat or something very solid and then using the halyard 
winch should help bring mast tip back.  I am not very familiar with the rig on 
the 34+ but am assuming that like most of the pre Tartan C the spreaders are 
not swept back.  Also .. a very dumb question .. do you have any jib or spin 
halyards attached to any point forward of the mast? 
 
Mike 
Persistence 
Halifax, NS 
 
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Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

Something is wrong.can't tell you what without seeing it but 
definitely something is wrong.  I have a split back stay and I attach 
mine every Spring single handed...I don't need a second pair of hands, I 
don't need to attach the main halyard to crank the mast back.the 
forestay and shrouds are attached and lastly I simply pin the split back 
stay and tension the two turnbucles and attach the adjuster lastly.


I think getting a rigger to investigate is a logical thing to do. Let's 
us know the outcome.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2017-05-12 9:04 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations.  I actually 
worked on it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really 
don’t know what is going on.  I checked the mast with no backstay on 
and it still showed a few inches of rake.  The forestay had a 
significant arc to it and felt very loose.  I had previously taken 
most of the tension off the shrouds.  I tried to pull one side of the 
split backstay and could not pull it far enough to pin it.  I don’t 
know how you could possibly do this with the adjuster attached as 
there is no way to get it out of the way and near a neutral position 
until both backstays are attached- so I took it off.  Then I let off 
the mainsheet and vang, attached the halyard to the end of the boom 
and cranked the boom down with the winch.  I looked at the forestay 
and it was still very slack.  I loosened the shrouds more, but no 
change.  I still could not pull it down enough to attach one side, let 
alone both.  So I rigged a mini block and tackle between the U bolt 
and the turnbuckle and was able to pull it down enough and hold it 
while I got the pin in.  With another person there leaning on the 
wire, I might have been able to do it without the block and tackle, 
but since the boat is in the water, it is hard to get in position to 
pull on the wire and put the pin in at the same time.  I ran out of 
time to try the other side, but it seems like something is not right 
with the rig if it is this hard.  I have not changed anything related 
to this since I bought the boat, so I find this very confusing.  I 
doubt C designed it to be this hard and there would be no reason to 
since you could just make the backstay longer.  One other thing for 
those who have other C designs.  Unlike my previous 34, there are no 
deck level wood blocks to adjust mast rake, nor any adjustment on the 
mast foot.  The mast goes through a hole in the deck that is the size 
of the mast, so no rake adjustment there.
Anyway, I decided to contact a local rigger I have worked with to see 
if he can help figure out what is going on.  I will report back when 
we have it sorted out.  Thanks- Dave


On May 11, 2017, at 4:59 PM, robert > wrote:


David:

When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like 
them, no adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one 
on the inside of the turn buckle.I thread both sides of each turn 
buckle equally.


When attaching to the back rail when stepping the mast, both are 
loosened off approx. 1 1/2 inches of the 2" and they can be pinned no 
problem.


I take my adjuster off the back stay each Fall and put it back on the 
Spring.it is not put back on until I have the two back stay(s) on 
and tensioned so the adjuster has no part in getting the back stay 
pinned.


I don't have a halyard attached to the back rail or anywhere.I 
don't use a halyard.never have.with the mast in the mast 
step, blocked at the base, the mast shimed in the collar, the 
forestay on, the shrouds tensioned, my mast isn't going anywhere.  A 
halyard is always added protection but I will never use one.


Trusting this helps.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2017-05-11 10:50 AM, David Knecht wrote:
They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the 
turnbuckle and they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I 
thought Josh’s idea to take tension off the backstay with the 
halyard makes a lot of sense.  I will take a look at that today.  I 
know the backstay adjuster was mostly loose as I had pushed it up 
with a pole this spring when I was playing with shroud adjustment.
1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as 
it will go without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be 
slack to put the pins back in with the turnbuckles loose but 
attached without taking tension off with the halyard as Josh suggested?
2.  I am presuming that it is safe to work on the rig with the 
backstay detached (meaning the mast is still well supported by the 
deck, forestay and shrouds)?

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



On May 11, 2017, at 8:23 AM, robert > wrote:


David:

My boat has the same setup for a backstay.split with an 
adjuster.I 

Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Larry via CnC-List]

Bruce

You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the early 
70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit paper to get the scratches 
out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. I usually start with 1000 
or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come out. I then use 1200, 1500, 
2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on to polishing. Then you 
want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses.  I have done this many times 
on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft windscreens. I did it ones on my boat. 
Now I just take plexiglass polish three times a year to it. 

Good luck

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it 
on our companionway hatches...

 

Hello all,

 

Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look fogged 
and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading here and other 
places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a test here at home.  I 
have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting 
with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of plexi until it 
looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then went to buffing 
compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for headlights.  

 

Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.  

 

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here cautions 
me otherwise.

 

What say you wise folks?

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Or perhaps toggles?  Either on forestay or backstay?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 10:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

Or are you missing any shackles on the backstay that could have been used as 
spacers?

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 7:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

Hi Dave

Is it possible that there is a mast step adjustment and the step has been moved 
aft further than desired?

Have you tried running the main halyard aft and tightening the halyard?  
Attaching it to an aft cleat or something very solid and then using the halyard 
winch should help bring mast tip back.  I am not very familiar with the rig on 
the 34+ but am assuming that like most of the pre Tartan C the spreaders are 
not swept back.  Also .. a very dumb question .. do you have any jib or spin 
halyards attached to any point forward of the mast?

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 9:05 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations.  I actually worked on 
it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really don't know what is 
going on.  I checked the mast with no backstay on and it still showed a few 
inches of rake.  The forestay had a significant arc to it and felt very loose.  
I had previously taken most of the tension off the shrouds.  I tried to pull 
one side of the split backstay and could not pull it far enough to pin it.  I 
don't know how you could possibly do this with the adjuster attached as there 
is no way to get it out of the way and near a neutral position until both 
backstays are attached- so I took it off.  Then I let off the mainsheet and 
vang, attached the halyard to the end of the boom and cranked the boom down 
with the winch.  I looked at the forestay and it was still very slack.  I 
loosened the shrouds more, but no change.  I still could not pull it down 
enough to attach one side, let alone both.  So I rigged a mini block and tackle 
between the U bolt and the turnbuckle and was able to pull it down enough and 
hold it while I got the pin in.  With another person there leaning on the wire, 
I might have been able to do it without the block and tackle, but since the 
boat is in the water, it is hard to get in position to pull on the wire and put 
the pin in at the same time.  I ran out of time to try the other side, but it 
seems like something is not right with the rig if it is this hard.  I have not 
changed anything related to this since I bought the boat, so I find this very 
confusing.  I doubt C designed it to be this hard and there would be no 
reason to since you could just make the backstay longer.  One other thing for 
those who have other C designs.  Unlike my previous 34, there are no deck 
level wood blocks to adjust mast rake, nor any adjustment on the mast foot.  
The mast goes through a hole in the deck that is the size of the mast, so no 
rake adjustment there.
Anyway, I decided to contact a local rigger I have worked with to see if he can 
help figure out what is going on.  I will report back when we have it sorted 
out.  Thanks- Dave

On May 11, 2017, at 4:59 PM, robert 
> wrote:

David:

When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like them, no 
adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one on the inside of 
the turn buckle.I thread both sides of each turn buckle equally.

When attaching to the back rail when stepping the mast, both are loosened off 
approx. 1 1/2 inches of the 2" and they can be pinned no problem.

I take my adjuster off the back stay each Fall and put it back on the 
Spring.it is not put back on until I have the two back stay(s) on and 
tensioned so the adjuster has no part in getting the back stay pinned.

I don't have a halyard attached to the back rail or anywhere.I don't use a 
halyard.never have.with the mast in the mast step, blocked at the base, 
the mast shimed in the collar, the forestay on, the shrouds tensioned, my mast 
isn't going anywhere.  A halyard is always added protection but I will never 
use one.

Trusting this helps.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-05-11 10:50 AM, David Knecht wrote:
They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle and 
they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh's idea to 
take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of 

Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Or are you missing any shackles on the backstay that could have been used as
spacers?  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 7:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

 

Hi Dave

 

Is it possible that there is a mast step adjustment and the step has been
moved aft further than desired?

 

Have you tried running the main halyard aft and tightening the halyard?
Attaching it to an aft cleat or something very solid and then using the
halyard winch should help bring mast tip back.  I am not very familiar with
the rig on the 34+ but am assuming that like most of the pre Tartan C the
spreaders are not swept back.  Also .. a very dumb question .. do you have
any jib or spin halyards attached to any point forward of the mast?

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 9:05 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

 

Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations.  I actually worked
on it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really don't know what
is going on.  I checked the mast with no backstay on and it still showed a
few inches of rake.  The forestay had a significant arc to it and felt very
loose.  I had previously taken most of the tension off the shrouds.  I tried
to pull one side of the split backstay and could not pull it far enough to
pin it.  I don't know how you could possibly do this with the adjuster
attached as there is no way to get it out of the way and near a neutral
position until both backstays are attached- so I took it off.  Then I let
off the mainsheet and vang, attached the halyard to the end of the boom and
cranked the boom down with the winch.  I looked at the forestay and it was
still very slack.  I loosened the shrouds more, but no change.  I still
could not pull it down enough to attach one side, let alone both.  So I
rigged a mini block and tackle between the U bolt and the turnbuckle and was
able to pull it down enough and hold it while I got the pin in.  With
another person there leaning on the wire, I might have been able to do it
without the block and tackle, but since the boat is in the water, it is hard
to get in position to pull on the wire and put the pin in at the same time.
I ran out of time to try the other side, but it seems like something is not
right with the rig if it is this hard.  I have not changed anything related
to this since I bought the boat, so I find this very confusing.  I doubt C
designed it to be this hard and there would be no reason to since you could
just make the backstay longer.  One other thing for those who have other C
designs.  Unlike my previous 34, there are no deck level wood blocks to
adjust mast rake, nor any adjustment on the mast foot.  The mast goes
through a hole in the deck that is the size of the mast, so no rake
adjustment there.  

Anyway, I decided to contact a local rigger I have worked with to see if he
can help figure out what is going on.  I will report back when we have it
sorted out.  Thanks- Dave

 

On May 11, 2017, at 4:59 PM, robert  > wrote:

 

David:

When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like them, no
adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one on the inside of
the turn buckle.I thread both sides of each turn buckle equally.

When attaching to the back rail when stepping the mast, both are loosened
off approx. 1 1/2 inches of the 2" and they can be pinned no problem.

I take my adjuster off the back stay each Fall and put it back on the
Spring.it is not put back on until I have the two back stay(s) on and
tensioned so the adjuster has no part in getting the back stay pinned.

I don't have a halyard attached to the back rail or anywhere.I don't use
a halyard.never have.with the mast in the mast step, blocked at the
base, the mast shimed in the collar, the forestay on, the shrouds tensioned,
my mast isn't going anywhere.  A halyard is always added protection but I
will never use one.

Trusting this helps.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C - 84
Halifax, N.S. 



On 2017-05-11 10:50 AM, David Knecht wrote:

They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle
and they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh's idea
to take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of sense.  I
will take a look at that today.  I know the backstay adjuster was mostly
loose as I had pushed it up with a pole this spring when I was playing with
shroud adjustment.  

1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it will
go without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to put the
pins back in with the 

Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Dave

Is it possible that there is a mast step adjustment and the step has been moved 
aft further than desired?

Have you tried running the main halyard aft and tightening the halyard?  
Attaching it to an aft cleat or something very solid and then using the halyard 
winch should help bring mast tip back.  I am not very familiar with the rig on 
the 34+ but am assuming that like most of the pre Tartan C the spreaders are 
not swept back.  Also .. a very dumb question .. do you have any jib or spin 
halyards attached to any point forward of the mast?

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 9:05 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations.  I actually worked on 
it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really don't know what is 
going on.  I checked the mast with no backstay on and it still showed a few 
inches of rake.  The forestay had a significant arc to it and felt very loose.  
I had previously taken most of the tension off the shrouds.  I tried to pull 
one side of the split backstay and could not pull it far enough to pin it.  I 
don't know how you could possibly do this with the adjuster attached as there 
is no way to get it out of the way and near a neutral position until both 
backstays are attached- so I took it off.  Then I let off the mainsheet and 
vang, attached the halyard to the end of the boom and cranked the boom down 
with the winch.  I looked at the forestay and it was still very slack.  I 
loosened the shrouds more, but no change.  I still could not pull it down 
enough to attach one side, let alone both.  So I rigged a mini block and tackle 
between the U bolt and the turnbuckle and was able to pull it down enough and 
hold it while I got the pin in.  With another person there leaning on the wire, 
I might have been able to do it without the block and tackle, but since the 
boat is in the water, it is hard to get in position to pull on the wire and put 
the pin in at the same time.  I ran out of time to try the other side, but it 
seems like something is not right with the rig if it is this hard.  I have not 
changed anything related to this since I bought the boat, so I find this very 
confusing.  I doubt C designed it to be this hard and there would be no 
reason to since you could just make the backstay longer.  One other thing for 
those who have other C designs.  Unlike my previous 34, there are no deck 
level wood blocks to adjust mast rake, nor any adjustment on the mast foot.  
The mast goes through a hole in the deck that is the size of the mast, so no 
rake adjustment there.
Anyway, I decided to contact a local rigger I have worked with to see if he can 
help figure out what is going on.  I will report back when we have it sorted 
out.  Thanks- Dave

On May 11, 2017, at 4:59 PM, robert 
> wrote:

David:

When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like them, no 
adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one on the inside of 
the turn buckle.I thread both sides of each turn buckle equally.

When attaching to the back rail when stepping the mast, both are loosened off 
approx. 1 1/2 inches of the 2" and they can be pinned no problem.

I take my adjuster off the back stay each Fall and put it back on the 
Spring.it is not put back on until I have the two back stay(s) on and 
tensioned so the adjuster has no part in getting the back stay pinned.

I don't have a halyard attached to the back rail or anywhere.I don't use a 
halyard.never have.with the mast in the mast step, blocked at the base, 
the mast shimed in the collar, the forestay on, the shrouds tensioned, my mast 
isn't going anywhere.  A halyard is always added protection but I will never 
use one.

Trusting this helps.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2017-05-11 10:50 AM, David Knecht wrote:
They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle and 
they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh's idea to 
take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of sense.  I will 
take a look at that today.  I know the backstay adjuster was mostly loose as I 
had pushed it up with a pole this spring when I was playing with shroud 
adjustment.
1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it will go 
without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to put the pins back 
in with the turnbuckles loose but attached without taking tension off with the 
halyard as Josh suggested?
2.  I am presuming that it is safe to work on the rig with the backstay 
detached (meaning the mast is still well supported by the deck, forestay and 
shrouds)?
Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



On May 11, 2017, 

Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations.  I actually worked on 
it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really don’t know what is 
going on.  I checked the mast with no backstay on and it still showed a few 
inches of rake.  The forestay had a significant arc to it and felt very loose.  
I had previously taken most of the tension off the shrouds.  I tried to pull 
one side of the split backstay and could not pull it far enough to pin it.  I 
don’t know how you could possibly do this with the adjuster attached as there 
is no way to get it out of the way and near a neutral position until both 
backstays are attached- so I took it off.  Then I let off the mainsheet and 
vang, attached the halyard to the end of the boom and cranked the boom down 
with the winch.  I looked at the forestay and it was still very slack.  I 
loosened the shrouds more, but no change.  I still could not pull it down 
enough to attach one side, let alone both.  So I rigged a mini block and tackle 
between the U bolt and the turnbuckle and was able to pull it down enough and 
hold it while I got the pin in.  With another person there leaning on the wire, 
I might have been able to do it without the block and tackle, but since the 
boat is in the water, it is hard to get in position to pull on the wire and put 
the pin in at the same time.  I ran out of time to try the other side, but it 
seems like something is not right with the rig if it is this hard.  I have not 
changed anything related to this since I bought the boat, so I find this very 
confusing.  I doubt C designed it to be this hard and there would be no 
reason to since you could just make the backstay longer.  One other thing for 
those who have other C designs.  Unlike my previous 34, there are no deck 
level wood blocks to adjust mast rake, nor any adjustment on the mast foot.  
The mast goes through a hole in the deck that is the size of the mast, so no 
rake adjustment there.  
Anyway, I decided to contact a local rigger I have worked with to see if he can 
help figure out what is going on.  I will report back when we have it sorted 
out.  Thanks- Dave

> On May 11, 2017, at 4:59 PM, robert  wrote:
> 
> David:
> 
> When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like them, no 
> adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one on the inside of 
> the turn buckle.I thread both sides of each turn buckle equally.
> 
> When attaching to the back rail when stepping the mast, both are loosened off 
> approx. 1 1/2 inches of the 2" and they can be pinned no problem.
> 
> I take my adjuster off the back stay each Fall and put it back on the 
> Spring.it is not put back on until I have the two back stay(s) on and 
> tensioned so the adjuster has no part in getting the back stay pinned.
> 
> I don't have a halyard attached to the back rail or anywhere.I don't use 
> a halyard.never have.with the mast in the mast step, blocked at the 
> base, the mast shimed in the collar, the forestay on, the shrouds tensioned, 
> my mast isn't going anywhere.  A halyard is always added protection but I 
> will never use one.
> 
> Trusting this helps.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C - 84
> Halifax, N.S. 
> 
> 
> On 2017-05-11 10:50 AM, David Knecht wrote:
>> They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle 
>> and they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh’s idea 
>> to take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of sense.  I 
>> will take a look at that today.  I know the backstay adjuster was mostly 
>> loose as I had pushed it up with a pole this spring when I was playing with 
>> shroud adjustment.  
>> 1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it will 
>> go without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to put the 
>> pins back in with the turnbuckles loose but attached without taking tension 
>> off with the halyard as Josh suggested? 
>> 2.  I am presuming that it is safe to work on the rig with the backstay 
>> detached (meaning the mast is still well supported by the deck, forestay and 
>> shrouds)?
>> Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 11, 2017, at 8:23 AM, robert >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> David:
>>> 
>>> My boat has the same setup for a backstay.split with an adjuster.I 
>>> unstep and step my mast, however, I have no problem attaching the split 
>>> backstay which I am the one usually doing it.
>>> 
>>> I leave the turn buckle(s) attached and simply remove the split ring and 
>>> pin in the Fall and in the Spring, one at a time put the pin(s) in..and 
>>> when I do this, the forestay is always attached first for obvious 
>>> reasons.the length of the forestay is 'set'..when the backstay is 
>>> attached, the turn buckles are tightened.
>>> 
>>> I can see where it would 

Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Prism polish is specifically stated by the manufacturer to be safe for 
plexiglass.


"Prism Polish has been formulated to clean, polish and protect all 
metals in one application. Our protective coating is designed to last 3 
to 6 months. Prism Polish contains no harsh acids, caustics or 
abrasives; it’s safe on all metals, fiberglass, Gel-Coat, Plexiglass and 
painted surfaces. Prism Polish has been developed for use in the marine, 
aviation, automotive, motorcycle and maintenance industries. Use Prism 
Polish on bronze, brass, copper, stainless steel, chrome, aluminum, 
pewter, nickel, sterling silver, silver plate and factory blued guns. 
Test plated metals in an inconspicuous area before use. Prism Polish is 
excellent to clean and deoxidize fiberglass; it removes cloudiness from 
plexiglass, clean vinyl, eisenglass or lexan."


Bill Bina


On 5/12/2017 7:23 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


FYI:

I got some Prism polish for my stainless steel grill. One of my old 
cars has foggy headlights that nothing seemed to fix, so I figured 
nothing to lose and the Prism stuff did GREAT on the headlights.


(also did great on the grill)

Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*BillBinaList via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, May 12, 2017 5:47 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* BillBinaList 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home 
test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...


Just be aware that any scratch Resistance and UV protective coatings 
will be removed. Maybe try just the plastic headlight polish by itself 
first. That may be enough for a decent improvement. I would also 
caution against using any compound that is not specifically for 
plastic. Automotive compounds and waxes have petroleum solvents that 
will attack plastic in a way that cannot be fixed.


Bill Bina

On 5/11/2017 10:01 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that
look fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.
After reading here and other places about potential ways of curing
the issue, I ran a test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat,
and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting with 360
wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of plexi until
it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then
went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for
headlights.

Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone
here cautions me otherwise.

What say you wise folks?

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

FYI:
I got some Prism polish for my stainless steel grill. One of my old cars has 
foggy headlights that nothing seemed to fix, so I figured nothing to lose and 
the Prism stuff did GREAT on the headlights.
(also did great on the grill)
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BillBinaList 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 5:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: BillBinaList 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to 
try it on our companionway hatches...


Just be aware that any scratch Resistance and UV protective coatings will be 
removed. Maybe try just the plastic headlight polish by itself first. That may 
be enough for a decent improvement. I would also caution against using any 
compound that is not specifically for plastic. Automotive compounds and waxes 
have petroleum solvents that will attack plastic in a way that cannot be fixed.

Bill Bina

On 5/11/2017 10:01 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:
Hello all,

Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look fogged 
and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading here and other 
places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a test here at home.  I 
have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting 
with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of plexi until it 
looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then went to buffing 
compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for headlights.

Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here cautions 
me otherwise.

What say you wise folks?

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net




___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

Just be aware that any scratch Resistance and UV protective coatings 
will be removed. Maybe try just the plastic headlight polish by itself 
first. That may be enough for a decent improvement. I would also caution 
against using any compound that is not specifically for plastic. 
Automotive compounds and waxes have petroleum solvents that will attack 
plastic in a way that cannot be fixed.


Bill Bina


On 5/11/2017 10:01 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that 
look fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After 
reading here and other places about potential ways of curing the 
issue, I ran a test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and 
grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting with 360 wet/dry 
sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of plexi until it looked 
like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then went to 
buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for headlights.


Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here 
cautions me otherwise.


What say you wise folks?
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!