Stus-List Fwd: Thank you

[tom hoffmann via CnC-List]

From: tom hoffmann
Sent: Monday, May 28, 5:14 PM
Subject: Thank you
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


To Ken Heaton.

I haven't figured out quite yet how to go about replying to you such that it 
appears below your entry in the string.

My memory isn't quite what I remember in recent years. The instant I read your 
response, I recalled having bookmarked the site for the museum once upon a time.

On a related note, I'm hoping for some guidance on easily searching the 
archives with keywords such as Kevlar. I am curious about the use of Kevlar in 
the hull, specifically its layup schedule (how many layers and whether they are 
on a bias) and width of the material along the waterline.

Again, thank you.

Tom




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H, Not thermostats

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

The thermostat on the raw water cooled Yanmar 3QM30H has always been a bit of a 
mystery on the use of one thermostat or  two thermostats. While there appears 
to be two thermostat holes in the housing, the service manual shows a diagram 
of only one thermostat and the discussion is in regards to always "a 
thermostat". The Yanmar 3QM30 parts manual also lists a quantity of 1 for the 
thermostat (105582-49200).  My engine came with one thermostat, so when I 
rebuilt the engine, I put in one thermostat and it has been working fine.  I 
wished I took better detailed photos of the thermostat housing, because I 
recall convincing myself that based on the housing, a second thermostat would 
would do absolutely nothing.

Note for the raw water cooled engine, there is only one thermostat from Yanmar 
that fits so you can’t screw up and mix thermostats of different temperature 
settings.  Early 3QM30 were converted to fresh water using the Sen-Dure fresh 
water heat exchange kit.  With the Sen-Dure kit, the engine used the same 
thermostat, but one replaced the temp sender.   The engine ran hotter because 
the heat exchanger was not as optimal in cooling water as exchanging hot for 
cold raw water.  But since the thermostat opened at lower temperature, the 
engine was not as efficient in coming up to the hotter operating temperature.  
Later Yanmar came out with the fresh water cooled 3QM30F using Yanmar’s own 
heat exchanger.  The 3QM30F uses a different and physical bigger and hotter 
thermostat which is mounted on the Yanmar heat exchanger and get rid of the old 
one which was mounted on top of the exhaust manifold.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On May 28, 2018, at 9:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 20:27:42 -0400
> From: wwadjo...@aol.com 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H
> Message-ID: <163a94b1b92-c9a-17...@webjas-vab075.srv.aolmail.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks for info.
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> On Monday, May 28, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Bill;
> 
> ?
> 
> A ?raw? water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case 
> lake water) through the engine for cooling. A ?fresh? water cooled engine has 
> antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes 
> through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the 
> engine.
> 
> ?
> 
> Josh?s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in 
> your engine is spot on.
> 
> ?
> 
> A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating 
> temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for 
> the thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load 
> should be around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine 
> that will block the cooling passages.
> 
> ?
> 
> A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature ? diesels are more 
> efficient at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the 
> engine can get to 180-190 under load.
> 
> ?
> 
> One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there 
> is increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, 
> when I was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the 
> consensus among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 
> 3 cylinder marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 
> to 100 hours ? at least yearly ? as preventative maintenance. 
> 
> ?
> 
> On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea.
> 
> ?
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
> ?
> 
> ?
> 
> ?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Hi,

I am wondering if any LF38 owners have replaced the original cast stemhead/bow 
roller?For those not familiar with LF38 stemhead, it is a triangular cast 
plate on the bow which incorporates bow chocks and rollers along with the 
connection point for the forestay.   I found a crack in mine, and so I’m 
looking to replace it with something more rugged and more functional.   


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Paul, a friend had a stainless one made for his Pretorian (old one was stolen). 
I think he used 3/16 or 1/4 inch stainless plate, made a pattern from 1/4 
plywood. Came out a work of art. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 POYC, WA.


 Original message From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/29/18  11:20  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge  Subject: Stus-List 38 
Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked 
Hi,
I am wondering if any LF38 owners have replaced the original cast stemhead/bow 
roller?    For those not familiar with LF38 stemhead, it is a triangular cast 
plate on the bow which incorporates bow chocks and rollers along with the 
connection point for the forestay.   I found a crack in mine, and so I’m 
looking to replace it with something more rugged and more functional.   



-
Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List LF39 mast

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Does anyone know it the rectangular plate under the mast of the LF39 is 
attached to the mast or does the mast just sit on it? Doesn't look like the 
plate will clear mast hole in deck. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy Port Orchard YC Rebecca Leah 
Lf39___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Paul — I’ve actually got a spare casting sitting in my garage; I don’t 
necessarily want to part with it, but could it serve as a pattern to have a new 
weldment made up out of stainless or aluminum for you?  Maybe one with some 
improvements…  And maybe they could make more than one…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 29, 2018, at 1:20 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am wondering if any LF38 owners have replaced the original cast 
> stemhead/bow roller?For those not familiar with LF38 stemhead, it is a 
> triangular cast plate on the bow which incorporates bow chocks and rollers 
> along with the connection point for the forestay.   I found a crack in mine, 
> and so I’m looking to replace it with something more rugged and more 
> functional.   
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked

[Paul Marble via CnC-List]

Paul, can't help with a source, but if you find one let me know. I have to
replace mine. It lost a fight with a bridge in the ICW.

Paul Marble
C&C 38 OF
Tina Marie
Madeira Beach, FL

On Tue, May 29, 2018, 2:20 PM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am wondering if any LF38 owners have replaced the original cast
> stemhead/bow roller?For those not familiar with LF38 stemhead, it is a
> triangular cast plate on the bow which incorporates bow chocks and rollers
> along with the connection point for the forestay.   I found a crack in
> mine, and so I’m looking to replace it with something more rugged and more
> functional.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

[Steven Tattrie via CnC-List]

Hi All,

The "Y" on my where the cooling water connects to the exhaust rusted out
and I am rebuilding it. It was made out of 1 1/4 " steel water pipe. A 3/8
"  piece was welded onto 6" of straight pipe to make a "Y". The 3/8" piece
is where the cooling water would travel into the 1 1/4" exhaust.

My question is: could this simply be a "t" shaped piece made out of 1 1/4
inch t with a reducer to fit the 3/8" connector for the cooling water.
Rather than weld up a "y".

Steve
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 34+ / 37+ Layup schedule

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Thomas,

Below is what I know about the layup schedule on the 34 / 37 + boats. I got
this off a forum somewhere (Not this one) a few years ago.

Topsides (total thickness 1.19")
1. Gelcoat
2. 1.5 oz. Chop
3. 1.5 oz. Mat
4. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
5. 1” Balsa Core
6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat

Bottom (total thickness 1.23")
1. Gelcoat
2. 1.5 oz. Chop
3. 1.5 oz. Mat
4. C77K/200 Kevlar Fabmat
5. 1” Balsa Core
6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat

Tuck area at turn of bilge to keel sump two (2) additional layers of
C77K/200 Kevlar Fabmat are added to the interior layer of the bottom
schedule for a total thickness of 1.39"  Keel sump has Balsa replaced by
two (2) layers of Compositex.

DuPont Aramat C72K/200 seems to have been an E-glass/Kevlar hybrid weave.
The following is all I could find out about the stuff on the web:

Composition of the glass/Kevlar hybrid, DuPont's Aramat 72K/200:

ComponentG/SQ.MOZ/SQ.YD  Wt. % in Base Fabric Wt. %
inTotal Fabric
Glass Fiber 245.6   7.2 63
41.1
Kevlar 49144.0   4.2 37
  24.0
Mat Backing200.0   5.9 --
 33.5
Stitching Yarn 8.0   0.2 --
 1.4
Total   597.6 17.5


Hydrex is a trade name for a product line from Reichhold Chemicals. The
original product was a VE/DCPD blend resin that offered the blister
resistance of VE resin, but with the tensile elongation or 2.4 which is
comparable to a good GP. The added DCPD allowed the resin to be promoted at
the manufacturer rather than the shop floor. It was a very good resin, but
not one which would have been ideal for an aramid laminate.

Hydrex 100 is a full VE resin with tensile elongation of 3.4%. Many VE
resins have an unstable gel time and need to be promoted at the shop to
insure that it does not drift out of range. Reichhold improved the
stability of the resin so that they could still promote at the manufacturer
and get stable gel times and cure rates. They now offer lower styrene
versions as well.

There is some description of the layup on the 34+ here as well:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review34-36.htm

I hope this helps.

Jean-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You can make these all kinds of ways. What kind of engine is it? Any chance of 
a photo posted someplace?
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven 
Tattrie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Steven Tattrie 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

Hi All,

The "Y" on my where the cooling water connects to the exhaust rusted out and I 
am rebuilding it. It was made out of 1 1/4 " steel water pipe. A 3/8 "  piece 
was welded onto 6" of straight pipe to make a "Y". The 3/8" piece is where the 
cooling water would travel into the 1 1/4" exhaust.

My question is: could this simply be a "t" shaped piece made out of 1 1/4 inch 
t with a reducer to fit the 3/8" connector for the cooling water. Rather than 
weld up a "y".

Steve


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List LF39 mast

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Doug,

On my 32, the mast simply sits on it.

Neil
1982 C&C32 FoxFire

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of svrebeccaleah via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 2:32:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svrebeccaleah
Subject: Stus-List LF39 mast

Does anyone know it the rectangular plate under the mast of the LF39 is 
attached to the mast or does the mast just sit on it? Doesn't look like the 
plate will clear mast hole in deck.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
Port Orchard YC
Rebecca Leah
Lf39
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H, Not thermostats

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Thanks Paul..I saw the same resources and that is why I only had one new 
thermostat...lol.  I think now I will disassemble and take a harder look at the 
configuration of the thermostat housing.
Bill

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi,


The thermostat on the raw water cooled Yanmar 3QM30H has always been a bit of a 
mystery on the use of one thermostat or  two thermostats. While there appears 
to be two thermostat holes in the housing, the service manual shows a diagram 
of only one thermostat and the discussion is in regards to always "a 
thermostat". The Yanmar 3QM30 parts manual also lists a quantity of 1 for the 
thermostat (105582-49200).  My engine came with one thermostat, so when I 
rebuilt the engine, I put in one thermostat and it has been working fine.  I 
wished I took better detailed photos of the thermostat housing, because I 
recall convincing myself that based on the housing, a second thermostat would 
would do absolutely nothing.


Note for the raw water cooled engine, there is only one thermostat from Yanmar 
that fits so you can’t screw up and mix thermostats of different temperature 
settings.  Early 3QM30 were converted to fresh water using the Sen-Dure fresh 
water heat exchange kit.  With the Sen-Dure kit, the engine used the same 
thermostat, but one replaced the temp sender.   The engine ran hotter because 
the heat exchanger was not as optimal in cooling water as exchanging hot for 
cold raw water.  But since the thermostat opened at lower temperature, the 
engine was not as efficient in coming up to the hotter operating temperature.  
Later Yanmar came out with the fresh water cooled 3QM30F using Yanmar’s own 
heat exchanger.  The 3QM30F uses a different and physical bigger and hotter 
thermostat which is mounted on the Yanmar heat exchanger and get rid of the old 
one which was mounted on top of the exhaust manifold.




-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





On May 28, 2018, at 9:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 20:27:42 -0400
From: wwadjo...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H
Message-ID: <163a94b1b92-c9a-17...@webjas-vab075.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Thanks for info.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, May 28, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:

Bill;

?

A ?raw? water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case 
lake water) through the engine for cooling. A ?fresh? water cooled engine has 
antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes 
through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine.

?

Josh?s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in 
your engine is spot on.

?

A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating 
temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the 
thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be 
around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will 
block the cooling passages.

?

A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature ? diesels are more efficient 
at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get 
to 180-190 under load.

?

One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is 
increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I 
was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus 
among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder 
marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours 
? at least yearly ? as preventative maintenance. 

?

On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea.

?

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

?

?

?


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Mine is similar. When I asked about it on this forum maybe 20 years ago, I was 
advised that the water should be aimed downstream so that it would not have any 
possibility of backing up into the engine (on shutdown, maybe?). When 
replacement time came, I duplicated what I had.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steven Tattrie via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Steven Tattrie 
Subject: Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

 

Hi All,

 

The "Y" on my where the cooling water connects to the exhaust rusted out and I 
am rebuilding it. It was made out of 1 1/4 " steel water pipe. A 3/8 "  piece 
was welded onto 6" of straight pipe to make a "Y". The 3/8" piece is where the 
cooling water would travel into the 1 1/4" exhaust.

 

My question is: could this simply be a "t" shaped piece made out of 1 1/4 inch 
t with a reducer to fit the 3/8" connector for the cooling water. Rather than 
weld up a "y".

 

Steve

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List sprucing up Polyurethane Paint

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Kevin Benoit used 3M Restorer and Wax on his new to him 35-2.  Good results.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 9:14 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My "new" paint job is 8 years old and some areas are no longer shiny due
> to strap tension on the winter cover, so I was wondering if a simply wax
> type finish or a touch up paint job is in order.  Saw some earlier posts,
> but wanted to weigh in.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
> a...@airsensing.com
> (416) 203-9858 office
> (416) 529-0070 mobile
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Sent: May-23-18 9:05 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 148, Issue 90
>
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Coupling bolts shearing (Rick Brass)
>2. Re:  Rigging tensions for C&C 35 Mk I (Glen Eddie)
>3. Re:  Coupling bolts shearing (detroito91)
>4. Re:  Coupling bolts shearing (detroito91)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 19:48:23 -0400
> From: "Rick Brass" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing
> Message-ID: <01d3f2f0$89b91f80$9d2b5e80$@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Jim?s boat has a Westerbeke 35D engine (3 cyl, 35HP) and Borg Warner BW7
> transmission, with the usual V drive arrangement of a LF38. Engine and
> transmission were both newly installed in 2010. Had 140 hours on engine
> when the boat was purchased in 2015. About 200 hours on it now, as Jim has
> said.
>
>
>
> Seal on the hydraulic pump in the Borg Warner transmission failed during
> the delivery from Charleston to Washington, NC in 2015 (seal had dried out
> during a couple of years when the engine only accumulated 4 hours of use by
> the PO, apparently). So the transmission was rebuilt at that time.
>
>
>
> There is a ?damper? between the engine flywheel and the input shaft of the
> transmission. According to the illustration in the parts book, it looks
> sort of like the spring loaded pressure plate in a clutch arrangement. But
> it seems pretty unlikely that the damper would have failed with only 200
> hours on the engine.
>
>
>
> The Walter v drive hasn?t got much space under it for the coupling, so
> Jim?s boat has a relatively small diameter coupling with 3 bolts in it.  As
> Jim has said, this is the 3rd time in two years that the bolts have sheared
> off. As he  has said, the feathering prop has been rebuilt, the shaft
> checked for straightness, bolts replaced (though there is a question
> whether the latest set is grade 5 or grade 8), engine aligned
> repeatedly(and BTW the motor mounts are new), etc., etc., etc. Jim (and
> everyone else aware of the problem) is getting really frustrated.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frank
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 3:39 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Frank 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing
>
>
>
> Jim,
>
>
>
> I have a 79 38LF, serial number 001.  I have had a similar problem.
>
> There were a combination of things that caused it.
>
> First, the engine was never bedded in the boat properly.  I had to cut the
> engine mounts and rebuild them so the engine could be aligned with the prop
> shaft.
>
> Second, I had the Paragon SAOV transmission and V-drive rebuilt.  Most of
> the internal components of both units were replaced.  The prior owner
> installed a used SAOD and connected the v-drive to it. (Making it a SAOV)
>
> But, most important, have you replaced the vibration damper connected to
> the output shaft of the engine?  It looks like a clutch plate but without
> the clutch material.  It is between the engine and the transmission.
>
> Mine looked good but upon a thorough inspection it was found to be trash!
>
> My problem turned out to be a combination of the above, several ?boat
> yards? aligned the prop with the v-drive but in actuality, there was a
> significant amount of difference between the two causing the bolts on the
> coupling to loosen.
>
> There was enough play in the v-drive output for it to look good.
>
>
>
> I would suspect that your vibration damper is not doing it?s job.
>
>
>
> Frank
>
>
>
> Frank Noragon
> S/V: Cool Change
> C&C 38LF, s/n: 001
> Rose City Yacht Club
> P

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

You could use this and a reducer:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-pipe-fittings/=1d21j7s

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 4:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

Mine is similar. When I asked about it on this forum maybe 20 years ago, I was 
advised that the water should be aimed downstream so that it would not have any 
possibility of backing up into the engine (on shutdown, maybe?). When 
replacement time came, I duplicated what I had.

Gary

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Steven Tattrie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Steven Tattrie mailto:steven.tatt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List exhaust and cooling water connector "Y"

Hi All,

The "Y" on my where the cooling water connects to the exhaust rusted out and I 
am rebuilding it. It was made out of 1 1/4 " steel water pipe. A 3/8 "  piece 
was welded onto 6" of straight pipe to make a "Y". The 3/8" piece is where the 
cooling water would travel into the 1 1/4" exhaust.

My question is: could this simply be a "t" shaped piece made out of 1 1/4 inch 
t with a reducer to fit the 3/8" connector for the cooling water. Rather than 
weld up a "y".

Steve


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List sprucing up Polyurethane Paint

[David via CnC-List]

If its Awlgrip...Andrew is correct.   Awlwash, Finesse,  Awlwash then Awlcare.  
 Anything else at your own risk.  Awlgrip is very unforgiving.

>From my Android...


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 4:32:30 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List sprucing up Polyurethane Paint

Kevin Benoit used 3M Restorer and Wax on his new to him 35-2.  Good results.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 9:14 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My "new" paint job is 8 years old and some areas are no longer shiny due to 
strap tension on the winter cover, so I was wondering if a simply wax type 
finish or a touch up paint job is in order.  Saw some earlier posts, but wanted 
to weigh in.

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858 office
(416) 529-0070 mobile


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: May-23-18 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 148, Issue 90

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Coupling bolts shearing (Rick Brass)
   2. Re:  Rigging tensions for C&C 35 Mk I (Glen Eddie)
   3. Re:  Coupling bolts shearing (detroito91)
   4. Re:  Coupling bolts shearing (detroito91)


--

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 23 May 2018 19:48:23 -0400
From: "Rick Brass" mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing
Message-ID: 
<01d3f2f0$89b91f80$9d2b5e80$@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Jim?s boat has a Westerbeke 35D engine (3 cyl, 35HP) and Borg Warner BW7 
transmission, with the usual V drive arrangement of a LF38. Engine and 
transmission were both newly installed in 2010. Had 140 hours on engine when 
the boat was purchased in 2015. About 200 hours on it now, as Jim has said.



Seal on the hydraulic pump in the Borg Warner transmission failed during the 
delivery from Charleston to Washington, NC in 2015 (seal had dried out during a 
couple of years when the engine only accumulated 4 hours of use by the PO, 
apparently). So the transmission was rebuilt at that time.



There is a ?damper? between the engine flywheel and the input shaft of the 
transmission. According to the illustration in the parts book, it looks sort of 
like the spring loaded pressure plate in a clutch arrangement. But it seems 
pretty unlikely that the damper would have failed with only 200 hours on the 
engine.



The Walter v drive hasn?t got much space under it for the coupling, so Jim?s 
boat has a relatively small diameter coupling with 3 bolts in it.  As Jim has 
said, this is the 3rd time in two years that the bolts have sheared off. As he  
has said, the feathering prop has been rebuilt, the shaft checked for 
straightness, bolts replaced (though there is a question whether the latest set 
is grade 5 or grade 8), engine aligned repeatedly(and BTW the motor mounts are 
new), etc., etc., etc. Jim (and everyone else aware of the problem) is getting 
really frustrated.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC







From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Frank via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2018 3:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frank mailto:n...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing



Jim,



I have a 79 38LF, serial number 001.  I have had a similar problem.

There were a combination of things that caused it.

First, the engine was never bedded in the boat properly.  I had to cut the 
engine mounts and rebuild them so the engine could be aligned with the prop 
shaft.

Second, I had the Paragon SAOV transmission and V-drive rebuilt.  Most of the 
internal components of both units were replaced.  The prior owner installed a 
used SAOD and connected the v-drive to it. (Making it a SAOV)

But, most important, have you replaced the vibration damper connected to the 
output shaft of the engine?  It looks like a clutch plate but without the 
clutch materia

Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H, Not thermostats

[David via CnC-List]

16 years, 3QM30 with a Sendure and one thermostat.   No problems.

>From my Android...


From: CnC-List  on behalf of William Walker via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 4:04:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H, Not thermostats


Thanks Paul..I saw the same resources and that is why I only had one new 
thermostat...lol.  I think now I will disassemble and take a harder look at the 
configuration of the thermostat housing.
Bill

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

Hi,

The thermostat on the raw water cooled Yanmar 3QM30H has always been a bit of a 
mystery on the use of one thermostat or  two thermostats. While there appears 
to be two thermostat holes in the housing, the service manual shows a diagram 
of only one thermostat and the discussion is in regards to always "a 
thermostat". The Yanmar 3QM30 parts manual also lists a quantity of 1 for the 
thermostat (105582-49200).  My engine came with one thermostat, so when I 
rebuilt the engine, I put in one thermostat and it has been working fine.  I 
wished I took better detailed photos of the thermostat housing, because I 
recall convincing myself that based on the housing, a second thermostat would 
would do absolutely nothing.

Note for the raw water cooled engine, there is only one thermostat from Yanmar 
that fits so you can’t screw up and mix thermostats of different temperature 
settings.  Early 3QM30 were converted to fresh water using the Sen-Dure fresh 
water heat exchange kit.  With the Sen-Dure kit, the engine used the same 
thermostat, but one replaced the temp sender.   The engine ran hotter because 
the heat exchanger was not as optimal in cooling water as exchanging hot for 
cold raw water.  But since the thermostat opened at lower temperature, the 
engine was not as efficient in coming up to the hotter operating temperature.  
Later Yanmar came out with the fresh water cooled 3QM30F using Yanmar’s own 
heat exchanger.  The 3QM30F uses a different and physical bigger and hotter 
thermostat which is mounted on the Yanmar heat exchanger and get rid of the old 
one which was mounted on top of the exhaust manifold.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




On May 28, 2018, at 9:16 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 20:27:42 -0400
From: wwadjo...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H
Message-ID: 
<163a94b1b92-c9a-17...@webjas-vab075.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Thanks for info.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, May 28, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Bill;

?

A ?raw? water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case 
lake water) through the engine for cooling. A ?fresh? water cooled engine has 
antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes 
through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine.

?

Josh?s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in 
your engine is spot on.

?

A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating 
temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the 
thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be 
around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will 
block the cooling passages.

?

A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature ? diesels are more efficient 
at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get 
to 180-190 under load.

?

One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is 
increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I 
was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus 
among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder 
marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours 
? at least yearly ? as preventative maintenance.

?

On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea.

?

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

?

?

?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayP

Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Replaced well paid for replacement Friday of my exhaust elbow  on my 82  /37ft  
yanmar 3HM sure it could not be original but  it  was full of $#!^ for sure


John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2018 10:15:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H

Bill;

A “raw” water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case 
lake water) through the engine for cooling. A “fresh” water cooled engine has 
antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes 
through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine.

Josh’s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in 
your engine is spot on.

A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating 
temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the 
thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be 
around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will 
block the cooling passages.

A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature – diesels are more efficient 
at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get 
to 180-190 under load.

One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is 
increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I 
was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus 
among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder 
marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours 
– at least yearly – as preventative maintenance.

On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2018 11:04 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H

Absolutely leave 2 thermostats.  I never suggested otherwise.  Without a 
thermostat in one or both of the ports it will act as though the thermostat is 
wide open all the time providing maximum cooling and the engine will likely 
never come up to temperature.  I was only trying to explain the disparity 
between your manual and your engine, suggesting that your information 
(drawings/manual) may have been for the freshwater variant and that because of 
this disparity you may have also inadvertently installed a thermostat with a 
freshwater temperature setpoint.

Josh

On Sun, May 27, 2018, 10:41 AM William Walker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Josh,
  Thanks, but I must have older or newer than that diagram (1981 boat).  My 
thermostat housing is on top of exhaust manifold, square in shape with 4 
distinct chambers, two of which are machined to accept thermostats..
  I think I will just leave as has been for the 7 years I have owned boat.  a 
thermostat in each chamber..
Bill

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Sunday, May 27, 2018 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bill,

Check out page 162 in the following link.  On page 182 it describes the 
thermostat setpoints.  160 = fresh and 108 =raw.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yenJtR1BxWjhqZGs/view?usp=drivesdk

Josh

On Sun, May 27, 2018, 9:28 AM William Walker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Josh,
  I have a drawing from yanmar manual, not quite same as yours.   My thermostat 
cover has bolt pattern different..fore and aft and side to side..I am always 
confused by "raw  water, fresh water" thing...I draw lake water in and through 
engine and out...no antifreeze or heat exchange..just direct through and out.
Bill.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


On Sunday, May 27, 2018 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Is your engine fresh water or raw water cooled.  By the model number I'm 
guessing that it is raw water cooled.  I don't have the manuals for the QM 
series but believe that they are the predecessor to the HM and GM.  As such 
many of the parts are interchangeable and much of the design is the same.  In 
my parts diagrams it shows 2 thermostats but only on the raw later cooled 
versions of the HM/GM.  I'll send you a picture off list.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, May 27, 2018, 8:35 AM William Walker via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Good morning,
   Yesterday

Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H > Exhaust Elbow Cleaning

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Just posted on other thread YES a real PITA to get to and replace on my 3HM as 
well $678 bucks later its done ! ouch!! ☹

John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Nauset Beach via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2018 10:53:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nauset Beach
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H > Exhaust Elbow Cleaning

Rick &/or anyone else,

Is there a recommended “service interval” for checking / cleaning the exhaust 
elbow on a fresh water cooled 3GM30F?  Mine was last checked 3-4 years ago and 
have probably had 100+ hours operation during that period.  It is a real PITA 
to access / remove / reinstall that elbow.

Thanks,
Brian

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2018 10:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H

Bill;

A “raw” water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case 
lake water) through the engine for cooling. A “fresh” water cooled engine has 
antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes 
through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine.

Josh’s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in 
your engine is spot on.

A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating 
temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the 
thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be 
around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will 
block the cooling passages.

A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature – diesels are more efficient 
at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get 
to 180-190 under load.

One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is 
increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I 
was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus 
among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder 
marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours 
– at least yearly – as preventative maintenance.

On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray