Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Like Dennis says, there's no one way to do this.  My 2 cents on Fuel Polishing. 
 

Fuel worried me a great deal when I bought my boat since it had sat for two 
years.  I don't motor much so the fuel sits and gets older each year.  I have 
an 18 gallon tank, so I got me three 5 gallon jerry cans and ran the level down 
at the end of one season and over the winter, I pumped the remaining fuel out 
of the tank and gifted it to a friend's heating oil tank.  I removed the fuel 
sender which gave me a large enough access hole, I could swab out the bottom of 
the tank.  There wasn't a great deal of sludge and my worries may have been 
unjustified.  But I knew what I had.  Then I added the correct amount of 
biocide and SeaFoam for 15 gallons and added fresh fuel to the tank.   Result:  
I found my Universal M4-30 started easier and more reliably every time.  That 
was 12 years ago.  I believe in using clean Fresh Fuel whenever possible.  


Did some research on Parker filters and how they are rated for something like 
500 gallons before changing.  I keep spares aboard but I only burn about 20 
gallons a year.  I changed my filters after 7 years (140 gallons)  and they 
looked just fine.Now it's been 9 years but I burn even less fuel since 
moving my boat to the Chesapeake Bay.  I may change the filters this year or 
next. 


Chapter two, 

This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 14, 2018 at 3:32 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> +1 on everything Charlie said.
> 
> I installed a vacuum gauge on Touche' years ago.  Great decision.  Let's 
> me run the filter elements much longer than before.
> 
> I am pessimistic about fuel polishing.  Unless the vendor has a super 
> dooper high pressure rig that can blast the corners and really suck 
> everything out, they are a waste of $$$.  A friend of mine went to take his 
> boat to a race once in moderately rough seas.  Got about an hour out and had 
> filter element pluggage.  Changed elements and got boat back to home marina.  
> Had fuel polished.  Started out next day with same result.  Wasted $$$.
> 
> It is much, much better to remove the tank and clean it than to have the 
> fuel polished.  If you can get the tank out, inspect it for pinholes, throw a 
> handful of gravel in it, shake it a lot then rinse it thoroughly with water 
> followed by alcohol.  
> 
> Last year I helped a buddy clean his tank.  He couldn't remove it so he 
> installed a diesel safe inspectin port in the top.  We emptied the tank, 
> reached in and wiped all the crud out with rags.
> 
> When I bought Touche', I completely cleaned the fuel system.  It was 
> gasoline powered at the time and had been sitting for years.  The fuel line 
> was a copper tube.  I disconnected each end, placed a coffee can at one end 
> and squirted carburetor cleaner from the other end until it ran clear.  
> 
> I guess my point is that there is no silver bullet here.  Having a clean 
> fuel system is critical and is worth any amount of work to make it reliable 
> is worth the effort.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 1:50 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > +1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel. 
> > +1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation 
> > can introduce air leaks where they are installed.
> > 
> > Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.
> > 
> > +1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of 
> > boat. A pita but doable if you can empty it first (electric or manual fuel 
> > pump via sender port).
> > 
> > AFTER it is cleaned, check out operation. If problem still there, 
> > start searching for vacuum leaks or filter problems.
> > 
> > FWIW
> > 
> > Charlie Nelson
> > 1995 C XL/kcb
> > Water Phantom
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> > Get the new AOL app:http://mail.mobile.aol.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Is there a way to tell if air has gotten in the filter housing?  I have a
Racor 200FG that has a clear bowl.  It leaks a small amount of air and once
or twice a season the engine will die because of it.  It usually doesn't
die on flat water.  I've figured out that the bubble of air gets trapped in
the top of the racor where it can't be seen in the bowl.  Then when the
boat heels (particularly to port) the suction ports on the racor become
exposed to the bubble and the engine dies.  When the boat flattens out, the
fuel covers the ports, and we attempt to restart the engine, it takes
little effort and seems to be back in working order... Until next time.  Or
until the bubble grows large enough to uncover the suction ports even when
the boat is flat.

I installed a bleed system and nearly always remove some air when it is
used.

As other's suggested I also installed a vacuum gage so I can tell when the
filter is dirty.  See them both in the video below.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Nov 14, 2018, 2:12 PM DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
> Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
> times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
> configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be
> dirty fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that
> could stir things up.
>
> So the next day we began the investigation.
>
> We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
> primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the
> engine again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we
> rev'd it hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put
> it back to idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil
> confidence.
>
> In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can
> see the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest
> shines.  If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely
> light and moves.
>
> So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you
> can look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
> following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
> running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?
>
> We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
> fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.
>
> So the questions:
>
> 1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?
> We never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.
>
> 2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
> has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
> alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
> claimed by alternator repair people.)
>
> 3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in
> the front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the
> middle (I think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you
> dissolve the sediment?   How did you flush it all out?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,


I think I'll eventually donate my boat, so I'm interested in the process of 
your organzation. 

Can you send me an application or what you require?

Can you send me a list of boats that sold this year and the prices fetched?   


Thanks

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 14, 2018 at 3:40 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I volunteer for one such organization. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum 
> accepts donated boats all year. We sell some via our advertising. We hold a 
> huge auction each Labor Day. This year there were about 125 boats. What a 
> donor gets is: we take immediate possession of the boat, move it to our 
> location (that’s where I come in) and when we sell it, you get a donation 
> document for what we got. You cannot just ‘guess’ at the value, to be legal, 
> it has to be what it actually moves for.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll come over to the western shore and sail/motor it over here – have 
> done it many times.
> 
>  
> 
> Gary Nylander
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
> Wolford via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of 
> the keel!
> 
>  
> 
> If it’s an IRS-qualified 501(c)(3), yes.  There are organizations out 
> there that are set up to accept donated boats and cars specifically for tax 
> deduction purposes.  They sell them for whatever they can get and use the 
> proceeds for charitable purposes.  I would think you could donate this boat 
> for about a $7,500 – $10,000 tax donation, depending on the condition.  On 
> the other hand, some people prefer the cash.
> 
>  
> 
> From: Steve Staten via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:59 PM
> 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Cc: Steve Staten mailto:steve-sta...@cherokee.org
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of 
> the keel!
> 
>  
> 
> So…wouldn’t the donation of a great, much-appreciated boat to a veterans 
> sailing camp be tax deductible? Seriously?
> 
>  
> 
> Steve Staten
> 
> C’Est La Vie, 26
> 
> Langley, OK
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you have a problem already, the biocide is a bit too late. It is a 
prevention, not a cure.

Also, it seems that most water that gets inside the tank is either from the 
dirty fuel or from the water ingress through the vent or fill tube (the O-ring 
on the filler cap is usually gone).

Marek

1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Neil E. Andersen 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 14:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil E. Andersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

I would also suggest you put in a good Biocide...

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32 - FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD 21661
neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com
+++
Save money and the environment.
Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

Get a vacuum gauge! I have found that to be an invaluable tool to diagnose fuel 
system issues.
Examples here:
https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FRacor-30-0HG-Vacuum-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Restriction-data=02%7C01%7C%7C7e408f2d76d74625eb5608d64a6ab665%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636778219513072235sdata=mxutBdN96GT%2FSc0%2BbzXOqf%2BoJOMrBASiSxkrw1Yo5FM%3Dreserved=0
Gauge-1-8-NPT-Threaded-Back/221688849829?hash=item339daf65a5:g:9LwAAOSwkxRaw
Eho:sc:USPSFirstClass!21235!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0

https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FVacuum-Gauge-Kit-Panel-Mount%2Fdp%2FB078H5994K%2Fref%3Dsr_1_8data=02%7C01%7C%7C7e408f2d76d74625eb5608d64a6ab665%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636778219513072235sdata=isdxMgGdAwQCoxe07kGm3dUHxqCE5XToumHcmi7ZGDY%3Dreserved=0
?ie=UTF8=1542223695=8-8=racor+gauge

https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FHFS-Utility-Vacuum-Pressure-Blk-Steel%2Fdp%2FB00VQSP2XA%2Frdata=02%7C01%7C%7C7e408f2d76d74625eb5608d64a6ab665%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636778219513072235sdata=4s%2FbuZi%2FzmZkvTfASq%2Fv991l3z1K9fAPn91uEq0UU9U%3Dreserved=0
ef=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8=1542223740=8-4=vacuum+gauge



Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON JONSSON 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few 
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being 
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty 
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir 
things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see 
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I had same problem until I had the tank repaired and cleaned. The blockage
was happening between the tank and the primary filter. I had to blow in the
hose to clear. Yuk!  I bought a soccer ball pump that worked well.
Later, installed a squeeze bulb to prime the system.  A secondary benefit
of bulb was when the engine quit the bulb would go flat and I could
immediately tell if the hose was clogged.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 3:03 PM Dennis Peters via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I had a very similar problem last year, although it cost me a tow to
> figure it out. Eventually we had the tank taken out and cleaned. It wasn’t
> cheap, but it gives me a lot more confidence for next year.
>
> Cheers,
> Dennis
>
> Dennis Peters
> dennis.k.pet...@gmail.com
>
>
>
> > On Nov 14, 2018, at 15:42, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the
> marina.  Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.
> Repeat a few times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel
> gauge not being configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second
> culprit may be dirty fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the
> tank and that could stir things up.
> >
> > So the next day we began the investigation.
> >
> > We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked
> the primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the
> engine again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we
> rev'd it hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put
> it back to idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil
> confidence.
> >
> > In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can
> see the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest
> shines.  If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely
> light and moves.
> >
> > So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one
>

> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis Peters via CnC-List]

Hi,

I had a very similar problem last year, although it cost me a tow to figure it 
out. Eventually we had the tank taken out and cleaned. It wasn’t cheap, but it 
gives me a lot more confidence for next year.

Cheers,
Dennis

Dennis Peters
dennis.k.pet...@gmail.com



> On Nov 14, 2018, at 15:42, DON JONSSON via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  
> Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few 
> times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being 
> configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty 
> fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could 
> stir things up.
> 
> So the next day we began the investigation.
> 
> We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
> primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
> again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
> hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
> idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  
> 
> In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see 
> the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If 
> you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.
> 
> So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
> look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
> following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
> well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?
> 
> We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In 
> fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.
> 
> So the questions:
> 
> 1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
> never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.
> 
> 2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
> 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
> alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both 
> claimed by alternator repair people.)
> 
> 3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
> front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
> think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
> sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Stus-List Line prices

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Fred

I get anything I need from Fisheries Supply 
herein Seattle.  They even give a ice discount 
for clubs and such and you can share your account 
with others and they can ties the account number 
to their own account and share the discount.  The 
more you run through the account, the deeper everyone's discount gets.


Here's my Fisheries Account number 627935...any 
of your listers are welcome to try it to see if the discount helps.


Tom B

¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom  Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
O (206) 463-9200
C (305) 409-3660
www.sv-alera.com


  At 06:16 AM 11/14/2018, you wrote:

--
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2018 13:42:08 -0800
From: Fred Hazzard 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Line prices
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I tried to buy a halyard at West M today. Turns out good high tech line is
25% off. The 40% only was on cheap dock line.
When does Defender have their sale?
Where else should I look?

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or
-- next part --


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[robert via CnC-List]

Dwight:

I think Steve has the mainsheet set up that was the original setup on my 
32.awkward and can't be trimmed by the helsman.


You redsigned mine so now the helsman can trim the main .that, I 
think is what Steve needs to doredesign his main sheet setup.


Steve, am I making a correct assumption?  If so, we might be able to 
offer suggestions.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-11-14 4:59 p.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
On my 35 mkii i have the original traveller mounted on the bridge deck 
triple blocks for the main sheet 7:1 advantage with ratchet block and 
cleat to control. 18 inch wire between the boom and moveable blocks. 
It works great a 70 year old lady can trim in winds to 20 apparent. I 
love the setup because i can trim while at the wheel single handed or 
with crew





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Re: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On my 35 mkii i have the original traveller mounted on the bridge deck
triple blocks for the main sheet 7:1 advantage with ratchet block and cleat
to control. 18 inch wire between the boom and moveable blocks. It works
great a 70 year old lady can trim in winds to 20 apparent. I love the setup
because i can trim while at the wheel single handed or with crew

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 12:50 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Steve,
>
> My boat is smaller, but I am using almost the same set-up. I prefer to
> have the extra block outside (and attached to the boom), but it makes
> little difference.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/4u0om487skpwoc3/20140830_160655.jpg?dl=0
>
> I like it a lot and I find it to work much better than the original system
> that was two-ended (one to the winch, one free for direct adjustments).
> This system is fast for gybes (3:1) and good for fine adjustments (6:1).
>
> Make sure that you have the proper angle for the sheets to come off the
> bottom block. Garhauer would adjust it for you.
>
> I did not buy the kit; rather, I built it myself. The bottom block was, I
> think, 30-05us (??) - around $85 and the top was 30-17us - $70. When I
> googled your part number, only Garhauer NZ showed up and the price was over
> $1000. I hope you won't plan to pay that much.
>
> Keep in mind that your boat is bigger, so you are probably looking at the
> 40-series blocks.
>
> Good luck
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of steve dewar
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 09:16
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: steve dewar 
> Subject: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler
>
> I am looking at replacing my  traveler system to a Garhauer 40-2sp
> system.  I presently have the sheet going from the traveler thru blocks to
> the mast, and back to a winch on the cabin top. It’s slow and isn’t great
> for fine adjustments. Does anyone find any issues that would nix my idea?
> Thanks
> Steve
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I volunteer for one such organization. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum 
accepts donated boats all year. We sell some via our advertising. We hold a 
huge auction each Labor Day. This year there were about 125 boats. What a donor 
gets is: we take immediate possession of the boat, move it to our location 
(that’s where I come in) and when we sell it, you get a donation document for 
what we got. You cannot just ‘guess’ at the value, to be legal, it has to be 
what it actually moves for.

 

I’ll come over to the western shore and sail/motor it over here – have done it 
many times.

 

Gary Nylander

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

 

If it’s an IRS-qualified 501(c)(3), yes.  There are organizations out there 
that are set up to accept donated boats and cars specifically for tax deduction 
purposes.  They sell them for whatever they can get and use the proceeds for 
charitable purposes.  I would think you could donate this boat for about a 
$7,500 – $10,000 tax donation, depending on the condition.  On the other hand, 
some people prefer the cash. 

 

From: Steve Staten via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:59 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Steve Staten   

Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

 

So…wouldn’t the donation of a great, much-appreciated boat to a veterans 
sailing camp be tax deductible? Seriously?

 

Steve Staten

C’Est La Vie, 26

Langley, OK 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List


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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

+1 on everything Charlie said.

I installed a vacuum gauge on Touche' years ago.  Great decision.  Let's me
run the filter elements much longer than before.

I am pessimistic about fuel polishing.  Unless the vendor has a super
dooper high pressure rig that can blast the corners and really suck
everything out, they are a waste of $$$.  A friend of mine went to take his
boat to a race once in moderately rough seas.  Got about an hour out and
had filter element pluggage.  Changed elements and got boat back to home
marina.  Had fuel polished.  Started out next day with same result.  Wasted
$$$.

It is much, much better to remove the tank and clean it than to have the
fuel polished.  If you can get the tank out, inspect it for pinholes, throw
a handful of gravel in it, shake it a lot then rinse it thoroughly with
water followed by alcohol.

Last year I helped a buddy clean his tank.  He couldn't remove it so he
installed a diesel safe inspectin port in the top.  We emptied the tank,
reached in and wiped all the crud out with rags.

When I bought Touche', I completely cleaned the fuel system.  It was
gasoline powered at the time and had been sitting for years.  The fuel line
was a copper tube.  I disconnected each end, placed a coffee can at one end
and squirted carburetor cleaner from the other end until it ran clear.

I guess my point is that there is no silver bullet here.  Having a clean
fuel system is critical and is worth any amount of work to make it reliable
is worth the effort.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 1:50 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel.
> +1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation can
> introduce air leaks where they are installed.
>
> Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.
>
> +1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of boat. A
> pita but doable if you can empty it first (electric or manual fuel pump via
> sender port).
>
> AFTER it is cleaned, check out operation. If problem still there, start
> searching for vacuum leaks or filter problems.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List Dirty fuel

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

I had a challenge a few years ago when I bought the boat with excess water in 
the fuel tank and lines.I actually removed the fuel tank completely and 
took it to a shop that steam cleaned the fuel tank or whatever it is they do to 
clean a fuel tank.  There was a fair amount of crap on the bottom of the tank 
that had accumulated over 20 years of use.

It certainly wasn't an expensive activity.   The biggest challenge was getting 
the fuel tank out of the lazarette.
That was about 5 years ago and nothing is showing in the racor.

Adam



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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

If it’s an IRS-qualified 501(c)(3), yes.  There are organizations out there 
that are set up to accept donated boats and cars specifically for tax deduction 
purposes.  They sell them for whatever they can get and use the proceeds for 
charitable purposes.  I would think you could donate this boat for about a 
$7,500 – $10,000 tax donation, depending on the condition.  On the other hand, 
some people prefer the cash. 

From: Steve Staten via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Steve Staten 
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

So…wouldn’t the donation of a great, much-appreciated boat to a veterans 
sailing camp be tax deductible? Seriously?

 

Steve Staten

C’Est La Vie, 26

Langley, OK 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Steve Staten via CnC-List]

So...wouldn't the donation of a great, much-appreciated boat to a veterans 
sailing camp be tax deductible? Seriously?

Steve Staten
C'Est La Vie, 26
Langley, OK

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 11:45 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject:  Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: someone step up, we are down 
to the scrap value of the keel!

I am guessing at this point not having to renew the slip would be enough - 
they'll probably give her to you.
Seriously
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap 
value of the keel!

Wow, If I had the cash, it would be a great addition to our Veterans sailing 
camp, beautiful boat.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 4:14 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

or the Diesel!  Maybe the guys in Detroit?

On Tue, Nov 13, 2018 at 1:53 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-35-mark/6725242249.html





Poor boat needs a new owner :(







Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I




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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

I would also suggest you put in a good Biocide...

Neil Andersen 
1982 C 32 - FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD 21661
neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com
+++
Save money and the environment.
Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

Get a vacuum gauge! I have found that to be an invaluable tool to diagnose
fuel system issues.
Examples here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Racor-30-0HG-Vacuum-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Restriction-
Gauge-1-8-NPT-Threaded-Back/221688849829?hash=item339daf65a5:g:9LwAAOSwkxRaw
Eho:sc:USPSFirstClass!21235!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Gauge-Kit-Panel-Mount/dp/B078H5994K/ref=sr_1_8
?ie=UTF8=1542223695=8-8=racor+gauge

https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Utility-Vacuum-Pressure-Blk-Steel/dp/B00VQSP2XA/r
ef=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8=1542223740=8-4=vacuum+gauge



Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

+1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel. 
+1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation can 
introduce air leaks where they are installed.

Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.

+1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of boat. A pita 
but doable if you can empty it first (electric or manual fuel pump via sender 
port).

AFTER it is cleaned, check out operation. If problem still there, start 
searching for vacuum leaks or filter problems.

FWIW

Charlie Nelson
1995 C XL/kcb
Water Phantom


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Wednesday, November 14, 2018, DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina. Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times. We 
thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel. Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank. Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad. Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times. Trying again we rev'd it hard 
just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to idle. 
Now it seems to run fine. But it doesn't instil confidence. 

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank. We put a camera in there and can see the bottom 
of the tank is about 50% covered with black. The rest shines. If you swirl a 
stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters. The secondary filter is not one you can look 
into so it could be there. Sailing the boat with little fuel in a following sea 
would definitely stir things up. But why is the engine running well now if it 
is a plugged filter? Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap. In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters? We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be? The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through. Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel. We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think). The hole is small to options seem limited. Can you dissolve the 
sediment? How did you flush it all out? 

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Years ago, while returning some distance from a regatta, my engine decided
to stop. I started it up and found it would run at about 1/2 throttle.
Motored that way for 45 miles. Took the Racor primary fuel filter apart and
I was shocked that any fuel could have gone through at all! Solid black.

Replace the filters, both primary and secondary. Try again.
Gary
30-1


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Dirty fuel?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If your fuel line goes tank >filter>pump>engine, get TWO vacuum gauges, one at 
each end of the filter.
Vacuum on the pump side of the filter = clogged filter.
Vacuum on both gauges = clogged tank inlet.
There is nothing magical about Racor gauges except the nice colored scale, you 
can use cheap FleaBay versions too.
( I about went nuts with tank clogs until I got two gauges and figured it out)



Joe Della Barba
DCSI
410-966-7255



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

Crud has built up in tank over the years and will block the pickup.  Thats why 
it starts again.   Crud drop off pickup.

Whatever ya gotta do get rid  of the fuel and clean the tank of the crud.

Everything else is a half measure (I have not heard good things about fuel 
polishing) and doing it  right will give you peace of mind.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

What about air in the fuel lines?  Tighten all clamps fittings and see if that 
helps

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON JONSSON 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[David via CnC-List]

Crud has built up in tank over the years and will block the pickup.  Thats why 
it starts again.   Crud drop off pickup.

Whatever ya gotta do get rid  of the fuel and clean the tank of the crud.

Everything else is a half measure (I have not heard good things about fuel 
polishing) and doing it  right will give you peace of mind.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of DON JONSSON via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Dirty fuel?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Get a vacuum gauge! I have found that to be an invaluable tool to diagnose fuel 
system issues.
Examples here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Racor-30-0HG-Vacuum-Diesel-Fuel-Filter-Restriction-Gauge-1-8-NPT-Threaded-Back/221688849829?hash=item339daf65a5:g:9LwAAOSwkxRawEho:sc:USPSFirstClass!21235!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.amazon.com/Vacuum-Gauge-Kit-Panel-Mount/dp/B078H5994K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8=1542223695=8-8=racor+gauge

https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Utility-Vacuum-Pressure-Blk-Steel/dp/B00VQSP2XA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8=1542223740=8-4=vacuum+gauge



Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON JONSSON 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am guessing at this point not having to renew the slip would be enough - 
they'll probably give her to you.
Seriously
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 10:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap 
value of the keel!

Wow, If I had the cash, it would be a great addition to our Veterans sailing 
camp, beautiful boat.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 4:14 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

or the Diesel!  Maybe the guys in Detroit?

On Tue, Nov 13, 2018 at 1:53 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-35-mark/6725242249.html





Poor boat needs a new owner :(







Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I




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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Steve,

My boat is smaller, but I am using almost the same set-up. I prefer to have the 
extra block outside (and attached to the boom), but it makes little difference. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4u0om487skpwoc3/20140830_160655.jpg?dl=0 

I like it a lot and I find it to work much better than the original system that 
was two-ended (one to the winch, one free for direct adjustments). This system 
is fast for gybes (3:1) and good for fine adjustments (6:1).

Make sure that you have the proper angle for the sheets to come off the bottom 
block. Garhauer would adjust it for you.

I did not buy the kit; rather, I built it myself. The bottom block was, I 
think, 30-05us (??) - around $85 and the top was 30-17us - $70. When I googled 
your part number, only Garhauer NZ showed up and the price was over $1000. I 
hope you won't plan to pay that much.

Keep in mind that your boat is bigger, so you are probably looking at the 
40-series blocks.

Good luck

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of steve dewar via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 09:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: steve dewar 
Subject: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

I am looking at replacing my  traveler system to a Garhauer 40-2sp system.  I 
presently have the sheet going from the traveler thru blocks to the mast, and 
back to a winch on the cabin top. It’s slow and isn’t great for fine 
adjustments. Does anyone find any issues that would nix my idea?
Thanks
Steve


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Re: Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I just put on a Garhauer traveler. Called Guedio at Garhauer and he figured out 
the size I needed, plus matched existing mount bolt holes, and how and where 
lines would exit. All said and done it was still cheaper than repairing my 25 
year old harken traveler. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: steve dewar via CnC-List 
 Date: 11/14/18  06:15  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: steve dewar  Subject: Stus-List 
C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler I am looking at replacing my  traveler system 
to a Garhauer 40-2sp system.  I presently have the sheet going from the 
traveler thru blocks to the mast, and back to a winch on the cabin top. It’s 
slow and isn’t great for fine adjustments. Does anyone find any issues that 
would nix my idea?ThanksSteveSent from my 
iPad___Thanks everyone for 
supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly 
appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the keel!

[T power via CnC-List]

Wow, If I had the cash, it would be a great addition to our Veterans sailing 
camp, beautiful boat.

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2018 4:14 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List someone step up, we are down to the scrap value of the 
keel!

or the Diesel!  Maybe the guys in Detroit?

On Tue, Nov 13, 2018 at 1:53 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/cc-35-mark/6725242249.html





Poor boat needs a new owner :(







Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I





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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List C 35 mkiii mainsheet traveler

[steve dewar via CnC-List]

I am looking at replacing my  traveler system to a Garhauer 40-2sp system.  I 
presently have the sheet going from the traveler thru blocks to the mast, and 
back to a winch on the cabin top. It’s slow and isn’t great for fine 
adjustments. Does anyone find any issues that would nix my idea?
Thanks
Steve


Sent from my iPad
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