Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low!
Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ?
I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com



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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Ah  ha ! bummer
But I would interested in some parts

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Dec 5, 2018, at 4:06 PM, Stephen Thorne via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thats a very expensive repair dont properly.  Too bad

On Wed, Dec 5, 2018 at 3:54 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I just got off the phone with the broker.

Here's the story...

She had a bad accident in about year 3 damage the aft 1/4 on the STB side.  The 
deck from the genny track to above the windows on that side are soggy and the 
aft 1/4 of the hull is de-laminated.  He estimates that it will take about $50K 
to repair...

Here's a copy of the survey with all the gruesome details...

https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn%3Aaaid%3Ascds%3AUS%3Add2f7a2f-1ec7-4873-a92f-e346d118de1a

Sad, but true...she sure looks good though.

Tom B

At 12:31 PM 12/5/2018, Ken Heaton wrote:
Holy cow !

I wonder what is wrong with it?

Ken H.

On Wed, 5 Dec 2018 at 16:09, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off 
the market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 
 If it needs approx. $50k in repairs, wouldn't that make the sale price seems 
about right?the new owner would have about $85-90K in the boat?
Richard
 s/v Bushmakr4: 1984 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2018 8:19 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low!Curious what The survey findings were  that caused 
this “drastic reduction” ? I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)

John Conklin S/V Halcyon 
On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:


I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/

Tom B
 .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




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Re: Stus-List Instruments

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

John — sorry for the delay, I’ve been out of ‘Net range (yes, there are still 
places on earth like that…)

Yes, I can price these for you; please contact me off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 1, 2018, at 5:15 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Our ancient Standard Horizon suite of wind, speed and depth works well except 
> the apparent wind.  Am suspecting the sending unit electronics are in need of 
> replacement but none available.  The depth and speed work great.  We do not 
> have auto pilot and do not integrate with GPS, chart plotter or AIS as no need
>  
> We intend to upgrade the suite of wind, speed and depth and ask opinions of 
> which brand, etc to consider.  Am inclined to the Raymarine I60 / I50 suite 
> due to read outs are very readable, proven technology, lower cost, ready 
> availability of repair parts, can integrate with NMEA 2000 etc etc.  Hole 
> size in hull is same as current,  Would need to drill new holes in bulkhead 
> but have the room
>  
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=raymarine-i50-i60-depth-speed-and-wind-systems-pack&path=-1|344|2028690|2028820&id=2086335
>  
> 
>  
>  
> Thoughts of the group?  Fred is this something you can deal with?
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Tom posted a link to the survey yesterday afternoon.  It stated delamination 
stbd aft side of hull and significant wet core aft stbd and midships stbd as 
well as large sections of high moisture content on the deck.  This was from 
hurricane damage in early 1990s.  The nasty side of this is that the repairs 
and problem predated the current owner who is the one who ultimately pays the 
price for the problems.

Sad

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low!
Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ?
I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/

Tom B


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

That’s Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
several years in Bayfield, WI.

If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   🙂

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 5, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off 
> the market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!
> 
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/ 
>  
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[David via CnC-List]

Richard...you are numerically right.  But I would not rebuild a waterlogged 
boat.   Those water issues, like in a semi-flooded and thereafter "fixed" car, 
seem to forever migrate and show up years later.  As has happened, most likely, 
in the instant case.

Apparently it could not have happened to a nicer guy...😉


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]


If it needs approx. $50k in repairs, wouldn't that make the sale price seems 
about right?the new owner would have about $85-90K in the boat?
Richard
s/v Bushmakr4: 1984 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2018 8:19 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low!
Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ?
I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/

Tom B
.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[jim aridas via CnC-List]

Sounds like an insurance total and check was issued to then owner kept the boat 
minus salvage value.

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 8:54:07 AM
To: David via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

That’s Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
several years in Bayfield, WI.

If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   🙂

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 5, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

IMHO the boat is not worth much over scrap. If you have $50K cash sitting 
around to pay the yard, you can afford a non-wrecked boat in the first place.
Joe
Coquina

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Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

[Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List]

Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south
starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original
aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get
a new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend
with same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way
it was coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip
to hide cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking
everything apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit.
Question to any owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will
absolutely fit with making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know
it's been discussed on here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes
or no, thanx guys.

Daryl McKelvie
Sarnia Ontario
1989 37/40+
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

David is saying the truth…. There was a Swan which was crunched on some rocks 
on a jetty down south a number of years ago. The owner got the check after he 
knew how much repairs were going to be. The yard stripped the boat (it had a 
big hole in the side and had nearly sunk) of everything! Engine, all 
electrical, tanks, etc… Built a new boat into the hull – (after just a few 
hours in the water, they found corrosion in the wiring 10-15 feet away from any 
damage – it spreads like fire!). He ended up with a great “brand new” boat 
which matched his excellent set of sails and other rigging. And re-designed to 
make it better than new. But…. Great craftsmanship, knowledgeable owner and 
yard, and a year’s worth of work.

 

This one appears to have been damaged so long ago that the basic shell of the 
boat is compromised, as well as all the rest of the systems. Pretty, but a lot 
of bondo!

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David davidrisc...@msn.com  

 


Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

 

Richard...you are numerically right.  But I would not rebuild a waterlogged 
boat.   Those water issues, like in a semi-flooded and thereafter "fixed" car, 
seem to forever migrate and show up years later.  As has happened, most likely, 
in the instant case.

 

Apparently it could not have happened to a nicer guy...😉

 

David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  

(401) 419-4650 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, December 6, 2018 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Richard Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!] 

 

 

If it needs approx. $50k in repairs, wouldn't that make the sale price seems 
about right?the new owner would have about $85-90K in the boat?

Richard

s/v Bushmakr4: 1984 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com> >
Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2018 8:19 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

Yes, I’ll say, way too low! 

Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ? 

I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)

John Conklin  

S/V Halcyon 


On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off the 
market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/ 

  

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com 

  



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&data=02%7C01%7C%7Ce9814564f46040af9d8e08d65aed97f7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636796373826891829&sdata=TTlQfMki75NvTL5RUrE%2By0efSSikPNea8H%2Bi%2F%2FohIZw%3D&reserved=0

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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

That assumes that it’s fixable for $50K.

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]


If it needs approx. $50k in repairs, wouldn't that make the sale price seems 
about right?the new owner would have about $85-90K in the boat?

Richard

s/v Bushmakr4: 1984 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;



2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Sent: Thu, Dec 6, 2018 8:19 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]


Yes, I’ll say, way too low! 
Curious what The survey findings were  that caused this “drastic reduction” ? 
I’ll Trade em straight up for my 37 :)


John Conklin  
S/V Halcyon 

On Dec 5, 2018, at 3:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:


  I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off 
the market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!

  https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/ 

  Tom B

  .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
  Tom Buscaglia
  SV Alera
  C&C 37+/40
  Vashon Island WA
  (206) 463-9200
  www.sv-alera.com 



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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] 37/40+ holding tank

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Metal holding tanks WILL leak. No idea why anyone ever used them.
I would seriously consider getting a composting head. It would be a lot less 
money and disruption. Speaking of disruption, I am not sure of your access, but 
Grand Banks fuel tanks are installed early in the build and do not fit out of 
any hatch. The usual way to remove them is to cut them up into pieces.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daryl 
McKelvie via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daryl McKelvie
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south 
starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original 
aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get a 
new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend with 
same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way it was 
coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip to hide 
cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking everything 
apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit. Question to any 
owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will absolutely fit with 
making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know it's been discussed on 
here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes or no, thanx guys.

Daryl McKelvie
Sarnia Ontario
1989 37/40+
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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Daryl,

It can come out — It’s not easy by any means, and I haven’t done it, but there 
is a way. 

The sink itself and the grey trim that runs along the shower and around the 
head is one piece, held in by screws. If you remove the screws, it will all 
come out (be careful), giving you full access to the top of the tank (lift it 
out) and everything else under the sink. You can also use this opportunity to 
replace the shower and sink faucets, in case yours are in bad shape. 

Someone on the list had the whole thing out (don’t remember who) and even took 
some photos. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









On Dec 6, 2018, at 9:55 AM, Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south 
starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original 
aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get a 
new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend with 
same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way it was 
coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip to hide 
cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking everything 
apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit. Question to any 
owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will absolutely fit with 
making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know it's been discussed on 
here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes or no, thanx guys.

Daryl McKelvie 
Sarnia Ontario 
1989 37/40+
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Don’t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
To: David via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

That’s Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
several years in Bayfield, WI. 

If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   🙂

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


  On Dec 5, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:___

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Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

$ 50K doesn’t sound like a serious thought-out number  . . .
Living where I do, near boat builders, fixing fiberglass is normal everyday 
stuff . . . .
I can see a DIY type buying the boat and working at it slowly . . . the end 
result being a terrific boat . . . .
Rob Ball,  C&C 34
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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Len Mitchell replaced the tank on his boat. He'll probably answer up but if
he doesn't his email is here.  len.mitch...@bell.blackberry.net

As I recall he got everything apart but the final movement of the tank was
precluded by the cabinets.  He had to make vertical cuts between the
cabinets.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Dec 6, 2018, 9:56 AM Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip
> south starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the
> original aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start
> leaking and get a new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out,
> short story: friend with same boat, he and the marine yard decided there
> was absolutely no way it was coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced
> with a nice teak strip to hide cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years
> ago. Without taking everything apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks
> like it might fit. Question to any owners: has anyone seen this done, can
> anyone say it will absolutely fit with making cuts, before I start taking
> things apart, I know it's been discussed on here before but I'm hoping to
> find a definitive yes or no, thanx guys.
>
> Daryl McKelvie
> Sarnia Ontario
> 1989 37/40+
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've said this before but worth repeating.   After I retired from my "real"
job, I started a marine repair business.  Did all sorts of marine repair
from electrical to fiberglass and gelcoat.  My good buddy nearby also
worked on boats.

After Hurricane Katrina there were LOTS of storm damaged boats available
for extremely low prices.  How many did my buddy and I buy?  ZERO!

Unless you are very good at and very much enjoy repairing boats and want to
fix a boat for your own use, stay away!  You will end up working for
$3/hour.  You will also end up with a boat that may carry the stigma of a
damaged vessel.

You will have enough work and expense upgrading a "sail away" boat.  You
don't need to compound the aggravation with a boat that needs a uge amount
of work.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 8:48 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> IMHO the boat is not worth much over scrap. If you have $50K cash sitting
> around to pay the yard, you can afford a non-wrecked boat in the first
> place.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Maybe I'm not visualizing it correctly but if you can get the top of the
tank exposed, why not just cut the top out, clean up all sharp edges and
drop a flexible bladder into the tank?

Dennis C.

On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 9:35 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Len Mitchell replaced the tank on his boat. He'll probably answer up but
> if he doesn't his email is here.  len.mitch...@bell.blackberry.net
>
> As I recall he got everything apart but the final movement of the tank was
> precluded by the cabinets.  He had to make vertical cuts between the
> cabinets.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 6, 2018, 9:56 AM Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip
>> south starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the
>> original aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start
>> leaking and get a new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out,
>> short story: friend with same boat, he and the marine yard decided there
>> was absolutely no way it was coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced
>> with a nice teak strip to hide cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years
>> ago. Without taking everything apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks
>> like it might fit. Question to any owners: has anyone seen this done, can
>> anyone say it will absolutely fit with making cuts, before I start taking
>> things apart, I know it's been discussed on here before but I'm hoping to
>> find a definitive yes or no, thanx guys.
>>
>> Daryl McKelvie
>> Sarnia Ontario
>> 1989 37/40+
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Any Tampa Bay Listers

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

Anyone on the list located in the Tampa Bay area? 

I’d like to get an idea about the sailing, racing and cruising activity down 
there.  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I did exactly that on a Krogen with a stainless holding tank. We found 
out two things:


1. The sewage REALLY stinks because absent vents and air circulation, 
the anaerobic bacteria do all the digesting.


2. #1 was discovered when someone had the floor hatch out and stepped on 
the bladder, causing the fittings to pop off!


Joe

Coquina

On 12/6/2018 10:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Maybe I'm not visualizing it correctly but if you can get the top of 
the tank exposed, why not just cut the top out, clean up all sharp 
edges and drop a flexible bladder into the tank?


Dennis C.

On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 9:35 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Len Mitchell replaced the tank on his boat. He'll probably answer
up but if he doesn't his email is here.
len.mitch...@bell.blackberry.net


As I recall he got everything apart but the final movement of the
tank was precluded by the cabinets. He had to make vertical cuts
between the cabinets.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Dec 6, 2018, 9:56 AM Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for
a trip south starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on
my mind is the original aluminum holding tank, which I'm told
will eventually start leaking and get a new plastic one in
there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend with
same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely
no way it was coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced
with a nice teak strip to hide cut, looks great, $3500 and
that was 5 years ago. Without taking everything apart I'm
looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit. Question
to any owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it
will absolutely fit with making cuts, before I start taking
things apart, I know it's been discussed on here before but
I'm hoping to find a definitive yes or no, thanx guys.

Daryl McKelvie
Sarnia Ontario
1989 37/40+
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-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Stus-List C&C 37+ holding tank

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Daryl, 
Yes it is absolutely possible. HMP had a couple plastic tanks in stock when I 
did mine maybe 5 years ago. I won't bore everyone with the details here but the 
hardest part was cutting the 3 inch tabbing an arms length up. It's built like 
a bomb shelter. If you don't use chlorine products the aluminum will last 
longer. $3500 is crazy. It's a diamond saw blade in a grinder and a shop vac. I 
converted the port side water tank to holding at the same time. It was a short 
days work. Pm me. 

Len Mitchell 
Crazy Legs
1989 37+ 
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Daryl,
 The only way that tank is coming out is with a Sawzall.  I removed
mine by cutting it up in small pieces.  I then found a tank (online) that I
stuffed in from under the sink.  In order to get a similar capacity (14
gallons), it had to stick out into the cabinet area under the sink,
reducing storage capacity.  The original tank is pretty small, and I lost
another gallon with the HDPE replacement.

Good luck,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~



On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 9:56 AM Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip
> south starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the
> original aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start
> leaking and get a new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out,
> short story: friend with same boat, he and the marine yard decided there
> was absolutely no way it was coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced
> with a nice teak strip to hide cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years
> ago. Without taking everything apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks
> like it might fit. Question to any owners: has anyone seen this done, can
> anyone say it will absolutely fit with making cuts, before I start taking
> things apart, I know it's been discussed on here before but I'm hoping to
> find a definitive yes or no, thanx guys.
>
> Daryl McKelvie
> Sarnia Ontario
> 1989 37/40+
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I removed the aluminum lid portion of the built-in nasty, old holding “tank” on 
my 42.  I had to widen the fiberglass top that held the lid to install a 
plastic tank in the same space.  Instead of using a sawzall, I got a 
controlled, clean cut through the fiberglass with an oscillating saw. 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 10:59 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

Hi Daryl, 
 The only way that tank is coming out is with a Sawzall.  I removed mine by 
cutting it up in small pieces.  I then found a tank (online) that I stuffed in 
from under the sink.  In order to get a similar capacity (14 gallons), it had 
to stick out into the cabinet area under the sink, reducing storage capacity.  
The original tank is pretty small, and I lost another gallon with the HDPE 
replacement.

Good luck,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~




On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 9:56 AM Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south 
starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original 
aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get a 
new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend with 
same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way it was 
coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip to hide 
cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking everything 
apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit. Question to any 
owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will absolutely fit with 
making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know it's been discussed on 
here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes or no, thanx guys.

  Daryl McKelvie 
  Sarnia Ontario 
  1989 37/40+
  ___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] 37/40+ holding tank

[Dave. via CnC-List]

I agree with Joe. We will be installing a composting Head this spring. All 
reports I get are positive.
Dave.
1975 C&C 33
SLY

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 7:01 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Metal holding tanks WILL leak. No idea why anyone ever used them.
> I would seriously consider getting a composting head. It would be a lot less 
> money and disruption. Speaking of disruption, I am not sure of your access, 
> but Grand Banks fuel tanks are installed early in the build and do not fit 
> out of any hatch. The usual way to remove them is to cut them up into pieces.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daryl 
> McKelvie via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 9:56 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Daryl McKelvie
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank
>  
> Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south 
> starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original 
> aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get a 
> new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend with 
> same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way it was 
> coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip to hide 
> cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking everything 
> apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit. Question to 
> any owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will absolutely fit 
> with making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know it's been 
> discussed on here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes or no, thanx 
> guys.
>  
> Daryl McKelvie 
> Sarnia Ontario 
> 1989 37/40+
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List Any Tampa Bay Listers

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Edd,

Here are a couple sources of information:


Southwinds Magazine a free source covering sailing & cruising for Fl and the SE.
https://southwindsmagazine.com 


FCYC: Florida Council of Yacht Clubs
http://www.floridacouncilofyachtclubs.com 

map: http://www.floridacouncilofyachtclubs.com/fcyc-map.html 




WFYRA
West Florida Yacht Racing Ass.
http://www.wfyra.org/ 













-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 10:43 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 10:42:21 -0500
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Any Tampa Bay Listers
> Message-ID: <712b304e-bae9-4d21-a3eb-2fa63c8ea...@schillay.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Anyone on the list located in the Tampa Bay area? 
> 
> I?d like to get an idea about the sailing, racing and cruising activity down 
> there.  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  >
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

  
  


I can validate Fred’s comment.  Totally. 


Get Outlook for iOS

  



On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 11:35 AM -0600, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:















Don’t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really 
think.


 

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
To: David via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not 
Mine!]
 
That’s 
Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
several years in Bayfield, WI. 
 
If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   🙂
 
— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the 
hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



  On Dec 5, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 
wrote:





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Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've been living with oil leaks from around the HP fuel pump and the timing
cover for as long as I've owned the boat (~6.5 years).  I finally had a
window of time to make fixing the problem a priority.  Everything went
smoothly and the engine is back together and works.  I came away with some
observations and questions though.  To start here are some pictures/video
of the cover before reinstalling.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1gNX3pjZrcabZ2LUE6rKQAm_M1jVfweR7

I didn't have power tools available and some tight tolerances on the engine
block only allowed me to get the gasket seating area as clean as you see it
in the pictures.  No large or thick chunks and most of the remnants were
feathered in.  Anybody have experience  getting a seal with this much
residue?

The old gasket was pretty clearly a paper type which had hardened.  The new
gasket was a lead/babit/graphite material.  Smooth and semi-reflective.  My
only hesitation was weather or not to use a sealant.  And the lingering
question of, "Why did the OEM change the material?"  What are the benefits
of a graphite gasket?  RTV sealant or not?  I ended up using just enough
RTV sealant on both sides to provide a light smooth coat.

The ignition timing is set by the shims between the HP pump and the timing
cover.  There is a timing procedure which I did not perform.  Instead, I
simply replaced the shims that were there with new ones of the same
thickness.  Anything that messes up that thickness will change the timing
so the use of a THIN sealant is required.  Remnants of sealant and damage
to the shims made measuring the thickness of each shim tricky.  I tried to
measure a combined thickness of the stack of old shims and compare it to
the thickness of the stack of new shims, because of the combined effects of
damage and sealant, the old stack measured about 50% thicker than the new.
I measured and remeasured and I am extremely confident that I selected the
exact same number and thickness of replacement shims as was installed by
the OEM.  I can't recall the source but Blue Locktite is evidently the
recommend sealant.  I realize that Locktite makes a number of different
products in various colors, not just thread locker.  There was an
associated product number which I was also unable to recall.   Instead of
loosing sleep I just used the blue threadlocker which I had laying around.
A light wet coat on both sides of each shim.

While I was in the project I found one of the studs for the HP pump came
out.  The nut was seized mid-thread and it appeared that the stud may have
been bottoming out in the timing cover, not providing the required pressure
to that corner of the HP pump.  Also contributing to the oil leak.

So the moment of truth arrived and the engine started without a hitch.  I
immediately noticed that it seemed to idle a little faster.  I let it run
in gear at about 2k rpm for about 2 hours before having confidence to leave
the dock.  No oddities except slightly higher idle rpm.  While running
around on the water I tried full throttle/rpm to see if there was "more
power".  Throttle felt smooth and responsive.  It seemed like a higher rpm
was achievable.  Typically, with a dirty prop and bottom 2800 or 3000 rpm
is the most I would get before black smoke would develop.  This time I got
to about 3400 rpm with no black smoke and more throttle.  This all seemed
very positive.  If I pushed the throttle just a tad further the engine
would immediately lose significant power and blow black smoke.  I realize
that the tachs on these engines are notoriously inaccurate.  Mine measures
about 10% low.  Without getting the laser tach out I would guess that my
real instantaneous (and momentary) rpm peeked at 3750.  The OEM
instantaneous rating is 3600.  Thoughts?  Is my experience normal for an
engine which exceeds its max RPM or is this more representative of an
engine with too much timing advance?

*Some final thoughts*.
-I think the mechanic who worked on the engine for the PO during my
purchase caused/failed to fix 3 things.  First, in removing the HP pump he
broke the seal and never re-sealed it.  Second, he probably
deformed/damaged the shims.  Third, he failed to identify/correct the
seized nut on the stud.  All of these combined to cause the primary oil
leak.  They probably also contributed to a decrease in engine timing.
-In years past I had made half attempts to fix the leak.  This was
punctuated by failing to successfully remove hp pump.  As a result no
sealant was able to be applied and the shims where likely to have been
further damaged.  I too failed to recognize/correct the seize nut on the
stud.  My efforts probably exasperated the existing problems.
-As I recall, I have had to set the pitch on my max prop lower than that
recommended by the OEM (based on the engine/power and boat/Hull
combination).
-I now believe that the combined effects have "lifted" the HP pump about
50% higher than set by the factory causing the timing to be retarded.  

Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Tried to get Oil eater in Vancouver but cannot get it here. Are there other 
safe alternatives?___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I had a long chat with John Hoenig, at the yard 
that is listing her.  According to him, the 
repairs done after the initial damage were not 
enough and over time it just got worse. That 
said, he was confident that he could hand the 
repairs.  He also told me that the hull was balsa 
cored...so my comfort level in his competence is 
a little soft.  The fiberglass/kevlar hull is 
definitely not cored balsa and, may be 
significantly more difficult to repair.


He felt that without a significant profit 
potential, the boat will never sell.  His opinion 
is that if the O wants to sell, the price should 
be around 20K.  I'm not sure you could part it 
out and recover that much and I agree that 
considering the type and extent of the damage 
parting it out is the only realistic out...


Still sad to see one of the limited number of 36+/40's go to the scrap heap.

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com



At 07:43 AM 12/6/2018, you wrote:

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 10:15:48 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Don?t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
To: David via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

That?s Beau Geste, a hurricane ?rescue? 
boat.  She was sunk, then quickly reflected and 
cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k? he was 
on my dock for several years in Bayfield, WI.


If it goes below $30k, I?ll take a look?   ?

? Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Actually, the hulls of all the 37/40 produced did have balsa cores.  Some
areas of the hull have no core but most of the hull does.  On the other
hand, C&C was quite good at coring hulls so, unless there was some serious
accident (like there was with this boat) the cores are not usually a
problem, and are an advantage, making the hulls both stronger and lighter
than comparable hulls without cores...

Construction drawings are here:
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

Ken H.




On Thu, 6 Dec 2018 at 15:12, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a long chat with John Hoenig, at the yard that is listing her.
> According to him, the repairs done after the initial damage were not enough
> and over time it just got worse. That said, he was confident that he could
> hand the repairs.  He also told me that the hull was balsa cored...so my
> comfort level in his competence is a little soft.  The fiberglass/kevlar
> hull is definitely not cored balsa and, may be significantly more difficult
> to repair.
>
> He felt that without a significant profit potential, the boat will never
> sell.  His opinion is that if the O wants to sell, the price should be
> around 20K.  I'm not sure you could part it out and recover that much and I
> agree that considering the type and extent of the damage parting it out is
> the only realistic out...
>
> Still sad to see one of the limited number of 36+/40's go to the scrap
> heap.
>
> Tom B
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
>
> At 07:43 AM 12/6/2018, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 10:15:48 -0500
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Don?t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.
>
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
> To: David via CnC-List
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
>
> That?s Beau Geste, a hurricane ?rescue? boat.  She was sunk, then quickly
> reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k? he was on my dock for
> several years in Bayfield, WI.
>
> If it goes below $30k, I?ll take a look?   ?
>
> ? Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I thought the Hull was cored with balsa though?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Thu, Dec 6, 2018, 2:12 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a long chat with John Hoenig, at the yard that is listing her.
> According to him, the repairs done after the initial damage were not enough
> and over time it just got worse. That said, he was confident that he could
> hand the repairs.  He also told me that the hull was balsa cored...so my
> comfort level in his competence is a little soft.  The fiberglass/kevlar
> hull is definitely not cored balsa and, may be significantly more difficult
> to repair.
>
> He felt that without a significant profit potential, the boat will never
> sell.  His opinion is that if the O wants to sell, the price should be
> around 20K.  I'm not sure you could part it out and recover that much and I
> agree that considering the type and extent of the damage parting it out is
> the only realistic out...
>
> Still sad to see one of the limited number of 36+/40's go to the scrap
> heap.
>
> Tom B
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
>
> At 07:43 AM 12/6/2018, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 10:15:48 -0500
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Don?t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.
>
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
> To: David via CnC-List
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
>
> That?s Beau Geste, a hurricane ?rescue? boat.  She was sunk, then quickly
> reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k? he was on my dock for
> several years in Bayfield, WI.
>
> If it goes below $30k, I?ll take a look?   ?
>
> ? Fred
>
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My copy of the original brochure.  "Kevlar and Balsa coring".

http://www.cbcsailing.com/the-boat.html#PhotoSwipe1544124076780

As I understand it, the Kevlar is the real PITA.

The way it looks in the survey pictures is not what I would expect from a
delamination.  It looks like water got behind the paint which was used for
the original repair.  It sounds like this could have been caused by the
incorrect application of shrink wrap.  Until the water logged surface paint
is removed, I'm not sure anyone can tell what exactly is wrong.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Dec 6, 2018, 2:12 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a long chat with John Hoenig, at the yard that is listing her.
> According to him, the repairs done after the initial damage were not enough
> and over time it just got worse. That said, he was confident that he could
> hand the repairs.  He also told me that the hull was balsa cored...so my
> comfort level in his competence is a little soft.  The fiberglass/kevlar
> hull is definitely not cored balsa and, may be significantly more difficult
> to repair.
>
> He felt that without a significant profit potential, the boat will never
> sell.  His opinion is that if the O wants to sell, the price should be
> around 20K.  I'm not sure you could part it out and recover that much and I
> agree that considering the type and extent of the damage parting it out is
> the only realistic out...
>
> Still sad to see one of the limited number of 36+/40's go to the scrap
> heap.
>
> Tom B
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
>
> At 07:43 AM 12/6/2018, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 10:15:48 -0500
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Don?t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.
>
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
> To: David via CnC-List
> Cc: Frederick G Street
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
>
> That?s Beau Geste, a hurricane ?rescue? boat.  She was sunk, then quickly
> reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k? he was on my dock for
> several years in Bayfield, WI.
>
> If it goes below $30k, I?ll take a look?   ?
>
> ? Fred
>
>
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Josh

Those pictures look way to familiar!

In Spring 2016 our 3GM30F failed to start caused by a bend and jamming of the 
Governor Flyweight Assembly.  This is the device that is moves the governor as 
the engine races or stops racing due to prop coming closer to surface or 
digging back in.  It took about 10 days before we finally diagnosed the problem 
and I believe you and I spoke and corresponded quite a bit at the time (thank 
you!)  I hope that when you replaced the timing cover that you used something 
like Loctite on the retaining nut for the flyweight if you had removed it.  On 
Persistence it was this nut that had come off over time which caused our 
problem.

When we finally had the Governor Flyweight Assembly repaired and while we were 
waiting for the new timing gasket to arrive (projected wait time of over two 
weeks) we decided to reassemble using the hi temp gasket material available in 
a tube to test the engine and ensure the problem was resolved.  We planned to 
then use the new gasket when it arrived.  I do not believe there was any less 
residue than shown in your photos.  Also rather than risking tinkering with the 
timing we re-used the existing shims when reinstalling the HP pump (which we 
had refurbished while it was out).  There were no leaks and the timing seemed 
as good as before.  In the end we cancelled the order for the timing gasket and 
left it as it was and it has worked very well ever since.

Our 3GM30F at WOT is approx. 3400 RPM and we cruise at 2800RPM.  Despite 
refurbing all three injectors and the HP pump we still have a puff of black 
smoke when starting a very cold engine.  My mechanic calls that “Old Yanmar 
smoke”

Mike
Persistence
Halifax< NS



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 2:49 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

I've been living with oil leaks from around the HP fuel pump and the timing 
cover for as long as I've owned the boat (~6.5 years).  I finally had a window 
of time to make fixing the problem a priority.  Everything went smoothly and 
the engine is back together and works.  I came away with some observations and 
questions though.  To start here are some pictures/video of the cover before 
reinstalling.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1gNX3pjZrcabZ2LUE6rKQAm_M1jVfweR7

I didn't have power tools available and some tight tolerances on the engine 
block only allowed me to get the gasket seating area as clean as you see it in 
the pictures.  No large or thick chunks and most of the remnants were feathered 
in.  Anybody have experience  getting a seal with this much residue?

The old gasket was pretty clearly a paper type which had hardened.  The new 
gasket was a lead/babit/graphite material.  Smooth and semi-reflective.  My 
only hesitation was weather or not to use a sealant.  And the lingering 
question of, "Why did the OEM change the material?"  What are the benefits of a 
graphite gasket?  RTV sealant or not?  I ended up using just enough RTV sealant 
on both sides to provide a light smooth coat.

The ignition timing is set by the shims between the HP pump and the timing 
cover.  There is a timing procedure which I did not perform.  Instead, I simply 
replaced the shims that were there with new ones of the same thickness.  
Anything that messes up that thickness will change the timing so the use of a 
THIN sealant is required.  Remnants of sealant and damage to the shims made 
measuring the thickness of each shim tricky.  I tried to measure a combined 
thickness of the stack of old shims and compare it to the thickness of the 
stack of new shims, because of the combined effects of damage and sealant, the 
old stack measured about 50% thicker than the new.  I measured and remeasured 
and I am extremely confident that I selected the exact same number and 
thickness of replacement shims as was installed by the OEM.  I can't recall the 
source but Blue Locktite is evidently the recommend sealant.  I realize that 
Locktite makes a number of different products in various colors, not just 
thread locker.  There was an associated product number which I was also unable 
to recall.   Instead of loosing sleep I just used the blue threadlocker which I 
had laying around.  A light wet coat on both sides of each shim.

While I was in the project I found one of the studs for the HP pump came out.  
The nut was seized mid-thread and it appeared that the stud may have been 
bottoming out in the timing cover, not providing the required pressure to that 
corner of the HP pump.  Also contributing to the oil leak.

So the moment of truth arrived and the engine started without a hitch.  I 
immediately noticed that it seemed to idle a little faster.  I let it run in 
gear at about 2k rpm for about 2 hours before having confidence to leave the 
dock.  No oddities except slightly higher idle rpm.  While running aro

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Mike,

I remember helping you with your engine.  I was hoping you would chime in.
Thanks.

Josh

On Thu, Dec 6, 2018, 2:38 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  Hi Josh
>
>
>
> Those pictures look way to familiar!
>
>
>
> In Spring 2016 our 3GM30F failed to start caused by a bend and jamming of
> the Governor Flyweight Assembly.  This is the device that is moves the
> governor as the engine races or stops racing due to prop coming closer to
> surface or digging back in.  It took about 10 days before we finally
> diagnosed the problem and I believe you and I spoke and corresponded quite
> a bit at the time (thank you!)  I hope that when you replaced the timing
> cover that you used something like Loctite on the retaining nut for the
> flyweight if you had removed it.  On Persistence it was this nut that had
> come off over time which caused our problem.
>
>
>
> When we finally had the Governor Flyweight Assembly repaired and while we
> were waiting for the new timing gasket to arrive (projected wait time of
> over two weeks) we decided to reassemble using the hi temp gasket material
> available in a tube to test the engine and ensure the problem was
> resolved.  We planned to then use the new gasket when it arrived.  I do not
> believe there was any less residue than shown in your photos.  Also rather
> than risking tinkering with the timing we re-used the existing shims when
> reinstalling the HP pump (which we had refurbished while it was out).
> There were no leaks and the timing seemed as good as before.  In the end we
> cancelled the order for the timing gasket and left it as it was and it has
> worked very well ever since.
>
>
>
> Our 3GM30F at WOT is approx. 3400 RPM and we cruise at 2800RPM.  Despite
> refurbing all three injectors and the HP pump we still have a puff of black
> smoke when starting a very cold engine.  My mechanic calls that “Old Yanmar
> smoke”
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax< NS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 06, 2018 2:49 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks
>
>
>
> I've been living with oil leaks from around the HP fuel pump and the
> timing cover for as long as I've owned the boat (~6.5 years).  I finally
> had a window of time to make fixing the problem a priority.  Everything
> went smoothly and the engine is back together and works.  I came away with
> some observations and questions though.  To start here are some
> pictures/video of the cover before reinstalling.
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1gNX3pjZrcabZ2LUE6rKQAm_M1jVfweR7
>
>
>
> I didn't have power tools available and some tight tolerances on the
> engine block only allowed me to get the gasket seating area as clean as you
> see it in the pictures.  No large or thick chunks and most of the remnants
> were feathered in.  Anybody have experience  getting a seal with this much
> residue?
>
>
>
> The old gasket was pretty clearly a paper type which had hardened.  The
> new gasket was a lead/babit/graphite material.  Smooth and
> semi-reflective.  My only hesitation was weather or not to use a sealant.
> And the lingering question of, "Why did the OEM change the material?"  What
> are the benefits of a graphite gasket?  RTV sealant or not?  I ended up
> using just enough RTV sealant on both sides to provide a light smooth coat.
>
>
>
> The ignition timing is set by the shims between the HP pump and the timing
> cover.  There is a timing procedure which I did not perform.  Instead, I
> simply replaced the shims that were there with new ones of the same
> thickness.  Anything that messes up that thickness will change the timing
> so the use of a THIN sealant is required.  Remnants of sealant and damage
> to the shims made measuring the thickness of each shim tricky.  I tried to
> measure a combined thickness of the stack of old shims and compare it to
> the thickness of the stack of new shims, because of the combined effects of
> damage and sealant, the old stack measured about 50% thicker than the new.
> I measured and remeasured and I am extremely confident that I selected the
> exact same number and thickness of replacement shims as was installed by
> the OEM.  I can't recall the source but Blue Locktite is evidently the
> recommend sealant.  I realize that Locktite makes a number of different
> products in various colors, not just thread locker.  There was an
> associated product number which I was also unable to recall.   Instead of
> loosing sleep I just used the blue threadlocker which I had laying around.
> A light wet coat on both sides of each shim.
>
>
>
> While I was in the project I found one of the studs for the HP pump came
> out.  The nut was seized mid-thread and it appeared that the stud may have
> been bottoming out in the timing cover, not providing the required pressure
> to that corner of the HP pump.  Also contribut

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

This list is a fabulous resource for problems of that sort.  Thank you Stu!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 3:45 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

Mike,

I remember helping you with your engine.  I was hoping you would chime in.  
Thanks.

Josh

On Thu, Dec 6, 2018, 2:38 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi Josh

Those pictures look way to familiar!

In Spring 2016 our 3GM30F failed to start caused by a bend and jamming of the 
Governor Flyweight Assembly.  This is the device that is moves the governor as 
the engine races or stops racing due to prop coming closer to surface or 
digging back in.  It took about 10 days before we finally diagnosed the problem 
and I believe you and I spoke and corresponded quite a bit at the time (thank 
you!)  I hope that when you replaced the timing cover that you used something 
like Loctite on the retaining nut for the flyweight if you had removed it.  On 
Persistence it was this nut that had come off over time which caused our 
problem.

When we finally had the Governor Flyweight Assembly repaired and while we were 
waiting for the new timing gasket to arrive (projected wait time of over two 
weeks) we decided to reassemble using the hi temp gasket material available in 
a tube to test the engine and ensure the problem was resolved.  We planned to 
then use the new gasket when it arrived.  I do not believe there was any less 
residue than shown in your photos.  Also rather than risking tinkering with the 
timing we re-used the existing shims when reinstalling the HP pump (which we 
had refurbished while it was out).  There were no leaks and the timing seemed 
as good as before.  In the end we cancelled the order for the timing gasket and 
left it as it was and it has worked very well ever since.

Our 3GM30F at WOT is approx. 3400 RPM and we cruise at 2800RPM.  Despite 
refurbing all three injectors and the HP pump we still have a puff of black 
smoke when starting a very cold engine.  My mechanic calls that “Old Yanmar 
smoke”

Mike
Persistence
Halifax< NS



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 2:49 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

I've been living with oil leaks from around the HP fuel pump and the timing 
cover for as long as I've owned the boat (~6.5 years).  I finally had a window 
of time to make fixing the problem a priority.  Everything went smoothly and 
the engine is back together and works.  I came away with some observations and 
questions though.  To start here are some pictures/video of the cover before 
reinstalling.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1gNX3pjZrcabZ2LUE6rKQAm_M1jVfweR7

I didn't have power tools available and some tight tolerances on the engine 
block only allowed me to get the gasket seating area as clean as you see it in 
the pictures.  No large or thick chunks and most of the remnants were feathered 
in.  Anybody have experience  getting a seal with this much residue?

The old gasket was pretty clearly a paper type which had hardened.  The new 
gasket was a lead/babit/graphite material.  Smooth and semi-reflective.  My 
only hesitation was weather or not to use a sealant.  And the lingering 
question of, "Why did the OEM change the material?"  What are the benefits of a 
graphite gasket?  RTV sealant or not?  I ended up using just enough RTV sealant 
on both sides to provide a light smooth coat.

The ignition timing is set by the shims between the HP pump and the timing 
cover.  There is a timing procedure which I did not perform.  Instead, I simply 
replaced the shims that were there with new ones of the same thickness.  
Anything that messes up that thickness will change the timing so the use of a 
THIN sealant is required.  Remnants of sealant and damage to the shims made 
measuring the thickness of each shim tricky.  I tried to measure a combined 
thickness of the stack of old shims and compare it to the thickness of the 
stack of new shims, because of the combined effects of damage and sealant, the 
old stack measured about 50% thicker than the new.  I measured and remeasured 
and I am extremely confident that I selected the exact same number and 
thickness of replacement shims as was installed by the OEM.  I can't recall the 
source but Blue Locktite is evidently the recommend sealant.  I realize that 
Locktite makes a number of different products in various colors, not just 
thread locker.  There was an associated product number which I was also unable 
to recall.   Instead of loosing sleep I just used the blue threadlocker which I 
had laying around.  A light wet coat on both sides of each shim.

While I was in the project I found one of the studs for the HP pum

Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Every single boat larger than 35 feet at C&C was balsa cored  . . .

Rob Ball,  C&C 34

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Re: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

It should be available at Complete Supply in Vancouver.  

I suppose Amazon would get too complicated, didn’t realise you were in Canada.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 1:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow
Subject: Stus-List Cleaning the engine.

 

Tried to get Oil eater in Vancouver but cannot get it here. Are there other 
safe alternatives?

___

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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I had also heard that Kevlar was a bear to work with, because it fuzzes, and 
found out the hard way for myself this summer. I used a blend of Kevlar/Carbon, 
and it was a joy to work with - until I started sanding.

That Sh#t will NOT sand!  The best you can do is either finish up with glass or 
carbon, or make sure it is lower than you want, and use some filler over it! It 
is, however, stronger than hell!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 2:19 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton; Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

 

Actually, the hulls of all the 37/40 produced did have balsa cores.  Some areas 
of the hull have no core but most of the hull does.  On the other hand, C&C was 
quite good at coring hulls so, unless there was some serious accident (like 
there was with this boat) the cores are not usually a problem, and are an 
advantage, making the hulls both stronger and lighter than comparable hulls 
without cores...

 

Construction drawings are here: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

 

Ken H.

 

 

 

 

On Thu, 6 Dec 2018 at 15:12, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

I had a long chat with John Hoenig, at the yard that is listing her.  According 
to him, the repairs done after the initial damage were not enough and over time 
it just got worse. That said, he was confident that he could hand the repairs.  
He also told me that the hull was balsa cored...so my comfort level in his 
competence is a little soft.  The fiberglass/kevlar hull is definitely not 
cored balsa and, may be significantly more difficult to repair.  

He felt that without a significant profit potential, the boat will never sell.  
His opinion is that if the O wants to sell, the price should be around 20K.  
I'm not sure you could part it out and recover that much and I agree that 
considering the type and extent of the damage parting it out is the only 
realistic out...

Still sad to see one of the limited number of 36+/40's go to the scrap heap.

Tom B

¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA

(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com   



At 07:43 AM 12/6/2018, you wrote:



Message: 2
Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 10:15:48 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Don?t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
To: David via CnC-List 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

That?s Beau Geste, a hurricane ?rescue? boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k? he was on my dock for 
several years in Bayfield, WI. 

If it goes below $30k, I?ll take a look?   ?

? Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Re Cleaning the engine.

[Tortuga via CnC-List]

https://www.amazon.ca/Oil-Eater-Cleaner-Degreaser-32oz/dp/B000EALHH6/ref=asc_df_B000EALHH6/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292948147916&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14149447656410772233&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=937&hvtargid=pla-451302178268&psc=1

I suppose Amazon would get too complicated, didn?t realise you were in
> Canada.
>
> Tried to get Oil eater in Vancouver
>

Derek Kennedy
SV Tortuga C&C30 mk1
Ballantyne's Cove, NS
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Re Cleaning the engine.

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Cleaner comparison

http://www.wastemin.com/discuss/index.php?threads/industrial-degreaser-performance-ratings-how-the-top-15-degreasers-stack-up.6/#.XAmTQnRKg2w

Dennis C.
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Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

[robert via CnC-List]

I have a Yanmar 2GMF...5 years ago, I notice some oil under the sole at 
the front of the enginepretty easy to determine where it was coming 
from...you could see the leak on the lower front of engineonly 
leaked a few drops when the engine was runningno leak with the 
engine stopped.  Cleaned the area up and you could actually see where 
the gasket was split and thus the oil leak.


Bought a new gasket but even though I might consider myself a DIY guy, I 
wasn't going to attempt to take the front of the engine apartI might 
get it apart but would I get it back together.


Talked to a few diesel mechanics at the club who said they would do it 
but it would costnot overly difficult for them but time consuming 
like many boat projects, part(s) are minimal cost, labor cost is high.


Friend was aboard one day...he can do this kind of workwe talked it 
over...told him I had the big gasket.he really didn't want to do it 
so he told me to go to Canadian Tire and buy a $10 tube of Ultra Copper, 
clean the leak area with acetone and apply the stuff with your finger 
over the leak.


That was 5 years ago, there has been no oil leak since, I still have the 
old tube of Ultra Copper and I still have the new gasket on board.


Some day I might get the new gasket installed, and then as long as the 
Ultra Copper keeps the oil from leaking, I may not incur the 
expense.maybe the next owner will and I even give him the gasket.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2018-12-06 2:48 p.m., Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
I've been living with oil leaks from around the HP fuel pump and the 
timing cover for as long as I've owned the boat (~6.5 years).  I 
finally had a window of time to make fixing the problem a priority.  
Everything went smoothly and the engine is back together and works.  I 
came away with some observations and questions though.  To start here 
are some pictures/video of the cover before reinstalling.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1gNX3pjZrcabZ2LUE6rKQAm_M1jVfweR7

I didn't have power tools available and some tight tolerances on the 
engine block only allowed me to get the gasket seating area as clean 
as you see it in the pictures.  No large or thick chunks and most of 
the remnants were feathered in.  Anybody have experience  getting a 
seal with this much residue?


The old gasket was pretty clearly a paper type which had hardened.  
The new gasket was a lead/babit/graphite material.  Smooth and 
semi-reflective.  My only hesitation was weather or not to use a 
sealant.  And the lingering question of, "Why did the OEM change the 
material?"  What are the benefits of a graphite gasket?  RTV sealant 
or not?  I ended up using just enough RTV sealant on both sides to 
provide a light smooth coat.


The ignition timing is set by the shims between the HP pump and the 
timing cover.  There is a timing procedure which I did not perform.  
Instead, I simply replaced the shims that were there with new ones of 
the same thickness.  Anything that messes up that thickness will 
change the timing so the use of a THIN sealant is required.  Remnants 
of sealant and damage to the shims made measuring the thickness of 
each shim tricky.  I tried to measure a combined thickness of the 
stack of old shims and compare it to the thickness of the stack of new 
shims, because of the combined effects of damage and sealant, the old 
stack measured about 50% thicker than the new.  I measured and 
remeasured and I am extremely confident that I selected the exact same 
number and thickness of replacement shims as was installed by the 
OEM.  I can't recall the source but Blue Locktite is evidently the 
recommend sealant.  I realize that Locktite makes a number of 
different products in various colors, not just thread locker.  There 
was an associated product number which I was also unable to recall.   
Instead of loosing sleep I just used the blue threadlocker which I had 
laying around.  A light wet coat on both sides of each shim.


While I was in the project I found one of the studs for the HP pump 
came out.  The nut was seized mid-thread and it appeared that the stud 
may have been bottoming out in the timing cover, not providing the 
required pressure to that corner of the HP pump.  Also contributing to 
the oil leak.


So the moment of truth arrived and the engine started without a 
hitch.  I immediately noticed that it seemed to idle a little faster.  
I let it run in gear at about 2k rpm for about 2 hours before having 
confidence to leave the dock. No oddities except slightly higher idle 
rpm.  While running around on the water I tried full throttle/rpm to 
see if there was "more power".  Throttle felt smooth and responsive.  
It seemed like a higher rpm was achievable.  Typically, with a dirty 
prop and bottom 2800 or 3000 rpm is the most I would get before black 
smoke would develop.  This time I got to about 3400 rpm with no black 
smoke and more throttle.  T

Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I guess I misunderstood what was meant with the inclusion of the Kevlar in the 
hull.

Thanks for straightening me out.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Dec 6, 2018, at 11:38 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2018 15:18:44 -0400
> From: Ken Heaton 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Actually, the hulls of all the 37/40 produced did have balsa cores.  Some
> areas of the hull have no core but most of the hull does.  On the other
> hand, C&C was quite good at coring hulls so, unless there was some serious
> accident (like there was with this boat) the cores are not usually a
> problem, and are an advantage, making the hulls both stronger and lighter
> than comparable hulls without cores...
> 
> Construction drawings are here:
> https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html
> 
> Ken H.
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

After an endorsement, like that, I just had to have some!

Amazon makes things too easy – 7 bucks, click and done!

 

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 4:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3HM35F repairing oil leaks

 

I have a Yanmar 2GMF...5 years ago, I notice some oil under the sole at the 
front of the enginepretty easy to determine where it was coming from...you 
could see the leak on the lower front of engineonly leaked a few drops when 
the engine was runningno leak with the engine stopped.  Cleaned the area up 
and you could actually see where the gasket was split and thus the oil leak.

Bought a new gasket but even though I might consider myself a DIY guy, I wasn't 
going to attempt to take the front of the engine apartI might get it apart 
but would I get it back together.

Talked to a few diesel mechanics at the club who said they would do it but it 
would costnot overly difficult for them but time consuming like many 
boat projects, part(s) are minimal cost, labor cost is high.

Friend was aboard one day...he can do this kind of workwe talked it 
over...told him I had the big gasket.he really didn't want to do it so he 
told me to go to Canadian Tire and buy a $10 tube of Ultra Copper, clean the 
leak area with acetone and apply the stuff with your finger over the leak.

That was 5 years ago, there has been no oil leak since, I still have the old 
tube of Ultra Copper and I still have the new gasket on board.

Some day I might get the new gasket installed, and then as long as the Ultra 
Copper keeps the oil from leaking, I may not incur the expense.maybe the 
next owner will and I even give him the gasket.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S. 



On 2018-12-06 2:48 p.m., Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

I've been living with oil leaks from around the HP fuel pump and the timing 
cover for as long as I've owned the boat (~6.5 years).  I finally had a window 
of time to make fixing the problem a priority.  Everything went smoothly and 
the engine is back together and works.  I came away with some observations and 
questions though.  To start here are some pictures/video of the cover before 
reinstalling. 

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1gNX3pjZrcabZ2LUE6rKQAm_M1jVfweR7

 

I didn't have power tools available and some tight tolerances on the engine 
block only allowed me to get the gasket seating area as clean as you see it in 
the pictures.  No large or thick chunks and most of the remnants were feathered 
in.  Anybody have experience  getting a seal with this much residue?

 

The old gasket was pretty clearly a paper type which had hardened.  The new 
gasket was a lead/babit/graphite material.  Smooth and semi-reflective.  My 
only hesitation was weather or not to use a sealant.  And the lingering 
question of, "Why did the OEM change the material?"  What are the benefits of a 
graphite gasket?  RTV sealant or not?  I ended up using just enough RTV sealant 
on both sides to provide a light smooth coat.

 

The ignition timing is set by the shims between the HP pump and the timing 
cover.  There is a timing procedure which I did not perform.  Instead, I simply 
replaced the shims that were there with new ones of the same thickness.  
Anything that messes up that thickness will change the timing so the use of a 
THIN sealant is required.  Remnants of sealant and damage to the shims made 
measuring the thickness of each shim tricky.  I tried to measure a combined 
thickness of the stack of old shims and compare it to the thickness of the 
stack of new shims, because of the combined effects of damage and sealant, the 
old stack measured about 50% thicker than the new.  I measured and remeasured 
and I am extremely confident that I selected the exact same number and 
thickness of replacement shims as was installed by the OEM.  I can't recall the 
source but Blue Locktite is evidently the recommend sealant.  I realize that 
Locktite makes a number of different products in various colors, not just 
thread locker.  There was an associated product number which I was also unable 
to recall.   Instead of loosing sleep I just used the blue threadlocker which I 
had laying around.  A light wet coat on both sides of each shim.

 

While I was in the project I found one of the studs for the HP pump came out.  
The nut was seized mid-thread and it appeared that the stud may have been 
bottoming out in the timing cover, not providing the required pressure to that 
corner of the HP pump.  Also contributing to the oil leak.

 

So the moment of truth arrived and the engine started without a hitch.  I 
immediately noticed that it seemed to idle a little faster.  I let it run in 
gear at about 2k rp

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Several years back, he asked me to redesign the battery switching and charging 
system for him; I did so, and after he saw the drawing and got my invoice, he 
said he wasn’t going to pay me because it looked something like the Blue Sea 
circuit diagram online.  Then he went ahead and installed my design himself.

Any questions?   🙂

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 12:14 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I can validate Fred’s comment.  Totally. 
> 
> Get Outlook for iOS 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 11:35 AM -0600, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Don’t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.
>  
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
> To: David via CnC-List 
> Cc: Frederick G Street 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
>  
> That’s Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
> reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
> several years in Bayfield, WI. 
>  
> If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   🙂
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Oh that’s Shitty!


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, December 6, 2018, 5:43 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Several years back, he asked me to redesign the battery switching and charging 
system for him; I did so, and after he saw the drawing and got my invoice, he 
said he wasn’t going to pay me because it looked something like the Blue Sea 
circuit diagram online.  Then he went ahead and installed my design himself.
Any questions?   🙂

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 6, 2018, at 12:14 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I can validate Fred’s comment.  Totally. 
Get Outlook for iOS


On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 11:35 AM -0600, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 wrote:


Don’t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think. From: Frederick G 
Street via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AMTo: David via 
CnC-ListCc: Frederick G StreetSubject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not 
Mine!] That’s Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then 
quickly reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock 
for several years in Bayfield, WI.  If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   
🙂 — Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m pretty sure the hull IS cored; and that same yard redid about 1/3 of a 
cored C&C 34 hull a few years back, so they definitely have the skills.  Not 
sure I’d want to see that bill, though…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 1:11 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had a long chat with John Hoenig, at the yard that is listing her.  
> According to him, the repairs done after the initial damage were not enough 
> and over time it just got worse. That said, he was confident that he could 
> hand the repairs.  He also told me that the hull was balsa cored...so my 
> comfort level in his competence is a little soft.  The fiberglass/kevlar hull 
> is definitely not cored balsa and, may be significantly more difficult to 
> repair. 

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Stus-List repairing oil leaks

[robert via CnC-List]

Bill:

That's exactly the product I used.I made one application where the 
gasket was splitI could see the split in the gasket and with the 
engine running, you could see the tiny oil leak, not a lot but a 
nuisance.doesn't leak with the engine not running because there is 
no oil pressure forcing it out the tiny opening.  I cleaned the area 
(engine) with acetone to get a good bond.I just squeezed a dab from 
the tube down the areasmoothed over with my finger and it has been 
fine for 5 years.
Eventually, it will probably break down but no sign of that happening so 
far.  And Canadian Tire carries this product all the time.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-12-06 5:58 p.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


After an endorsement, like that, I just had to have some!

Amazon makes things too easy – 7 bucks, click and done!

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1




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Re: Stus-List repairing oil leaks

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I used Permatex RTV Red High Temp gasket maker on Touche's old AT4.  It's a
close cousin to the Permatex Ultimate Copper gasket maker.

After I purchased the boat it took some effort to get the AT4 running.
When it finally started, I noticed water running everywhere in the engine
compartment.  I was leaking from the freeze drain and the right side
plate.

I pulled the engine, took it home and pulled the side plate.  The sealing
surface on the block had corroded and was no longer smooth and flat.  I
smoothed it best I could with a file and sanding block but it still had
some uneven areas.  I had to "upsize" a couple of the bolt holes.  (I could
have inserted Helicoils also.)  I slopped on some RTV, added the gasket and
bolted on the side plate.  The RTV was still doing well when I repowered
with a diesel 4 years later.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 6:15 PM robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Bill:
>
>
>
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Stus-List Rudder bearing questions...

[Steve Martin via CnC-List]

C&C 44 with spade rudder and harken top bearing...How much play is too much and 
does anyone know sizes and how to remove upper and lower bearings... and any 
other info on what I might be in for tackling this job...Thanks

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] 37/40+ holding tank

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Goslings are the same way. Helped a friend use a sawzall to cut up his tank, 
and then we replaced the original with 2 or 3 smaller tanks interconnected by 
pumps.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 05:01, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Metal holding tanks WILL leak. No idea why anyone ever used them.
> I would seriously consider getting a composting head. It would be a lot less 
> money and disruption. Speaking of disruption, I am not sure of your access, 
> but Grand Banks fuel tanks are installed early in the build and do not fit 
> out of any hatch. The usual way to remove them is to cut them up into pieces.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daryl 
> McKelvie via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 9:56 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Daryl McKelvie
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank
>  
> Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south 
> starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original 
> aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get a 
> new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend with 
> same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way it was 
> coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip to hide 
> cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking everything 
> apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit. Question to 
> any owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will absolutely fit 
> with making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know it's been 
> discussed on here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes or no, thanx 
> guys.
>  
> Daryl McKelvie 
> Sarnia Ontario 
> 1989 37/40+
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> 
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