Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

David,

I tend to look a bit askance at Teflon tape myself.  I have a fear of a
small piece of tape finding its way somewhere I don't want it.

Try to find some of the TuffGel.  It's a good product.  I use it on threads
on boats but tend to use regular pipe thread sealant (pipe dope) around the
house.

As the list knows, I'm a huge fan of TefGel but don't talk much about its
cousin, TuffGel simply because TuffGel isn't as readily available as TefGel.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 11:01 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Hi Dennis- After having problems with leaking joints of threaded home
> plumbing projects, I did some reading on line about how professionals make
> joints without leaks.  The overwhelming consensus was that teflon tape is
> useless and that is consistent with my experience.  So I never use teflon
> tape for anything anymore.  I now use only pipe thread compound on home and
> boat plumbing projects and have not had any problems with leaks.  I think
> that makes more sense in this case and replacing the anode more frequently
> than every 25 years will probably make it easier to get the threads loose.
> There is no dissimilar metals issue with the water tank or heat exchanger
> to need tef-gel.
>
> PS- I forgot to ask this- I am not sure I understand the electrical
> circuit of metals in the boat case that requires these anodes.  If the
> water heater or engine heat exchanger anode is completely gone, but the
> shaft anodes are present, is there still a danger to metals?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Both?  Kinda.  Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel.  I
> have some.  However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort.
> I think pipe joint compound would work fine.  Teflon tape would probably be
> OK also.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one?
>>
>>
>> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm a huge fan of Teflon tape.  The white stuff is usually good enough.  I
use it everywhere.  I've found that too much is worse than none at all.  I
work in an industry where pipe fittings and caps are used all the time.  We
rarely use sealants of any kind and simply tighten until it stops leaking.
As I understand it the dope, tuff-gel, or Teflon tape is simply there to
"lubricate" the threads.  If tape is used then it should be applied in a
clockwise direction such that as the fitting is tightened the tape tightens
into the threads.  If it is applied backwards it has a tendency to unwrap
as the fitting is tightened.

I use as little as possible and usually find the 2 wraps is the minimum
that I can get away with.  Pull it tight.

All water heaters have anodes, including the heaters in your home.  I think
it is a copper pipe/steel tank thing.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 12:01 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis- After having problems with leaking joints of threaded home
> plumbing projects, I did some reading on line about how professionals make
> joints without leaks.  The overwhelming consensus was that teflon tape is
> useless and that is consistent with my experience.  So I never use teflon
> tape for anything anymore.  I now use only pipe thread compound on home and
> boat plumbing projects and have not had any problems with leaks.  I think
> that makes more sense in this case and replacing the anode more frequently
> than every 25 years will probably make it easier to get the threads loose.
> There is no dissimilar metals issue with the water tank or heat exchanger
> to need tef-gel.
>
> PS- I forgot to ask this- I am not sure I understand the electrical
> circuit of metals in the boat case that requires these anodes.  If the
> water heater or engine heat exchanger anode is completely gone, but the
> shaft anodes are present, is there still a danger to metals?  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Both?  Kinda.  Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel.  I
> have some.  However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort.
> I think pipe joint compound would work fine.  Teflon tape would probably be
> OK also.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one?
>>
>>
>> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Are you saying you want a continuous lifeline with a pelican hook at the
bow pulpit and another at the stern pulpit?  You drop one or the other
depending on whether you're bow or stern in?

You can use the recommended lifeline wire for that.  I replaced lifelines
on a J30 where we just put a turnbuckle on the bow and a pelican hook on
the aft end that attached to the stern pulpit.  The lifeline was plenty
flexible to take the pelican hook forward and clip it to a shroud or other
point.  The lifeline just made a loop.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 3:44 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My original thought for using 7x19 is that the wire strength is nearly
> identical, it would not have the coating which hides corrosion as Neil
> mentioned, and I want more flexibility than 1x19 offers.  I want that
> flexibility because of the dock configuration I commonly deal with here in
> west Florida.  The pier fingers are short, and commonly so shallow that
> many times I cannot back in.  I rarely am at a dock where the gates are
> functional.   As a result, I want to put pelican hooks on both ends of the
> wires and drop one end or the other and still retain the ability to pick
> any point in between stanchions to act as a gate.  I'd like the flexibility
> so that the cable will drop easily down from the stanchion and can be tied
> down to avoid a trip hazard.
>
> I realize fully the potential for meathooks, and there are snap-over
> covers that can be easily removed for inspection where sail chafe might be
> an issue.
>
> As for the tool at West Marine, I was asking so that I could do the work
> myself not so much to save money, but simply to do the work myself if
> reasonably easy.  I've not had particularly good luck relying on the skill
> of others.
>
> All opinions are always welcome!
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

Bruce wrote:

> As for the tool at West Marine, I was asking so that I could do the work
> myself not so much to save money, but simply to do the work myself if
> reasonably easy.  I've not had particularly good luck relying on the skill
> of others.
>
> All opinions are always welcome!
>

Looks like Sta-Lok makes fittings for lifelines. Might be an option for a
DIY project:

https://www.stalok.com/category/cable-guardrail-fittings-imperial-sizes

Jim Hesketh
C 26 -- Whisper
Miami, FL
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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

My original thought for using 7x19 is that the wire strength is nearly 
identical, it would not have the coating which hides corrosion as Neil 
mentioned, and I want more flexibility than 1x19 offers.  I want that 
flexibility because of the dock configuration I commonly deal with here in west 
Florida.  The pier fingers are short, and commonly so shallow that many times I 
cannot back in.  I rarely am at a dock where the gates are functional.   As a 
result, I want to put pelican hooks on both ends of the wires and drop one end 
or the other and still retain the ability to pick any point in between 
stanchions to act as a gate.  I'd like the flexibility so that the cable will 
drop easily down from the stanchion and can be tied down to avoid a trip hazard.
I realize fully the potential for meathooks, and there are snap-over covers 
that can be easily removed for inspection where sail chafe might be an issue.
As for the tool at West Marine, I was asking so that I could do the work myself 
not so much to save money, but simply to do the work myself if reasonably easy. 
 I've not had particularly good luck relying on the skill of others.
All opinions are always welcome!

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Wednesday, January 2, 2019, 4:16:58 PM EST, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
 wrote: 
 ___

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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

I understood that coated lifelines were no longer approved for use.   You can’t 
see corrosion or strand breaks if it is covered.

Neil
1982 C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 4:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

7x19 wire is designed for running rigging or any application where the wire 
needs to bend.  1x19 is preferable in a static application.  If you reference 
Loos and Co., their guide for lifelines is 7x7 with a PVC coating.

I would also heed the CS Johnson guidelines for using the proper tool for hand 
swaging any end fittings.  Johnson and Hayn both make unique fittings for hand 
swaging vs. machine swaged terminations and the sizing of the tool is critical 
to achieve the proper interference fit between hardware and wire.  Here’s 
another example where the urge to save a few dollars could possibly result in a 
life threatening gear failure.
Even if you buy the Johnson hand swaging tool, you can probably sell it to 
somebody in your marina or yacht club or even to somebody on this list..
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mike Macdonald via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Macdonald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

I would use 1 x 19.  7x19 can barb and it loves ripping sails. Seen it happen 
more than once.
Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 2, 2019, at 8:42 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello all,

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.

I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.

Does anyone here know?

Thank you!

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

7x19 wire is designed for running rigging or any application where the wire 
needs to bend.  1x19 is preferable in a static application.  If you reference 
Loos and Co., their guide for lifelines is 7x7 with a PVC coating.

 

I would also heed the CS Johnson guidelines for using the proper tool for hand 
swaging any end fittings.  Johnson and Hayn both make unique fittings for hand 
swaging vs. machine swaged terminations and the sizing of the tool is critical 
to achieve the proper interference fit between hardware and wire.  Here’s 
another example where the urge to save a few dollars could possibly result in a 
life threatening gear failure.

Even if you buy the Johnson hand swaging tool, you can probably sell it to 
somebody in your marina or yacht club or even to somebody on this list..

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mike Macdonald via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Macdonald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

 

I would use 1 x 19.  7x19 can barb and it loves ripping sails. Seen it happen 
more than once.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 2, 2019, at 8:42 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello all,

 

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.

 

I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.

 

Does anyone here know? 

 

Thank you!

 

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

The issue is when the cockpit holes AND the thru-hulls are both below the line.

Neil
1982 C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Garry Cross via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 2:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Garry Cross
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

Interesting, on the 35-2 there are 4 drains and 2 through hulls. I don't think 
they are above the waterline.
The aft cockpit floor is lower than the forward one. Both sets of drains are 
forward.
Replaced valves and hoses a few years ago. Reused the through hulls although 
the tabs inside got busted trying to hold them to unscrew the valves. C 
should have used real through hulls that are bolted to the hull.

Picture of Second Chance under sail.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P9GN3fVTNp2PHzZuVQuB29tcbe3oxpA9
Happy New Year


-- Forwarded message --
From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2018 13:44:05 -0600
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains
Just to piggyback on the stuck seacock thread.

My buddy is a salvor.  He gets the call when a boat on our bayou is on the 
bottom.  A significant percentage of the sinkings involve plugged cockpit 
scupper drains.  Leaves and/or debris plug the drain(s).  The cockpit fills 
with rain water.  The weight of the water sinks the boat until the cockpit 
scuppers are submerged and down it goes.  Sometimes a neglected boat with a low 
companionway threshold will get so much rain water in the cockpit it overflows 
into the cabin.

Leave the cockpit seacocks open and make sure they are clear.  I flush Touche's 
twice a year.  Who knows what spider, mud dauber of whatever builds a nest in 
them.

Also, on haul out.  Make sure you know which way your cockpit drains.  Block 
the boat accordingly.  The 35-1 cockpit, like others, drains forward.  I always 
make sure Touche' is blocked level or slightly bow down.

Also, just as a note, the 35-1 has 4 cockpit scupper drains.  Two of them are 
in the aft steering station which is separated from the rest of the cockpit by 
a bulkhead.  These two drain exit at or slightly above the waterline when the 
boat is floating on its lines.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Interesting, on the 35-2 there are 4 drains and 2 through hulls. I don't
think they are above the waterline.
The aft cockpit floor is lower than the forward one. Both sets of drains
are forward.
Replaced valves and hoses a few years ago. Reused the through hulls
although the tabs inside got busted trying to hold them to unscrew the
valves. C should have used real through hulls that are bolted to the
hull.

Picture of Second Chance under sail.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P9GN3fVTNp2PHzZuVQuB29tcbe3oxpA9
Happy New Year


-- Forwarded message --
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2018 13:44:05 -0600
> Subject: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains
> Just to piggyback on the stuck seacock thread.
>
> My buddy is a salvor.  He gets the call when a boat on our bayou is on the
> bottom.  A significant percentage of the sinkings involve plugged cockpit
> scupper drains.  Leaves and/or debris plug the drain(s).  The cockpit fills
> with rain water.  The weight of the water sinks the boat until the cockpit
> scuppers are submerged and down it goes.  Sometimes a neglected boat with a
> low companionway threshold will get so much rain water in the cockpit it
> overflows into the cabin.
>
> Leave the cockpit seacocks open and make sure they are clear.  I flush
> Touche's twice a year.  Who knows what spider, mud dauber of whatever
> builds a nest in them.
>
> Also, on haul out.  Make sure you know which way your cockpit drains.
> Block the boat accordingly.  The 35-1 cockpit, like others, drains
> forward.  I always make sure Touche' is blocked level or slightly bow down.
>
> Also, just as a note, the 35-1 has 4 cockpit scupper drains.  Two of them
> are in the aft steering station which is separated from the rest of the
> cockpit by a bulkhead.  These two drain exit at or slightly above the
> waterline when the boat is floating on its lines.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Mike Macdonald via CnC-List]

I would use 1 x 19.  7x19 can barb and it loves ripping sails. Seen it happen 
more than once.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 2, 2019, at 8:42 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with 
> bare 7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp 
> stud fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had 
> swage tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round 
> fittings, but the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate 
> for the stud lifeline fittings.
> 
> I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
> shortly.
> 
> Does anyone here know? 
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I will have to look. I think I have threaded ends on there that are hardly 
bigger than the lifelines themselves.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 11:31 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool 
for lifelines?

Joe,

Lifeline replacement is high on my list for this spring, so let me ask a 
question.  I have two lines each side, the upper passes through relatively 
large eyes on top of the stanchions while the lower passes through holes barely 
bigger than the wire diameter, drilled through each stanchion. The upper line 
is no problem, but how were you able to fit the swaged or pressed ends through 
the holes, or do you have a different arrangement?  It appears to me I'd have 
to do the swage or press fittings in place.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 1/2/2019 10:33 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West Marine 
has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines for pretty cheap. 
If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 pieces of wire, 4 ends, and 
labor to press them on. I think it was something like $120 or so for my boat.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for 
lifelines?

FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool against 
the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only fabricate 
replacements.

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

Hello all,

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.

I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.

Does anyone here know?

Thank you!

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have a bag of those sleeves somewhere.  I got them years ago when I was
replacing my lifelines.  They are Heyco 98 437-5 Snap Bushings.  Yeah, you
never would have found them even with the power of Google.

Touche's lower lifelines pass easily through the lower holes in the
stanchion with just a stud on the lifeline.  The sleeve fitting is really
tight however.  Touche's lower lifelines are the smaller 1/8 inch coated
wire.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 11:40 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The sanctions with which I am familiar have sleaves in the holes to
> prevent the hard rough edges from wearing on the cable.
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Neil, it's not uncommon to have a smaller diameter lifeline on the lower
location.  I would be judicious about drilling out the stanchions to
accommodate a larger diameter.  The sanctions with which I am familiar have
sleaves in the holes to prevent the hard rough edges from wearing on the
cable.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 11:31 AM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
>
> Lifeline replacement is high on my list for this spring, so let me ask a
> question.  I have two lines each side, the upper passes through relatively
> large eyes on top of the stanchions while the lower passes through holes
> barely bigger than the wire diameter, drilled through each stanchion. The
> upper line is no problem, but how were you able to fit the swaged or
> pressed ends through the holes, or do you have a different arrangement?  It
> appears to me I'd have to do the swage or press fittings in place.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
> On 1/2/2019 10:33 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West
> Marine has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines for
> pretty cheap. If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 pieces of
> wire, 4 ends, and labor to press them on. I think it was something like
> $120 or so for my boat.
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
> *C 35 MK I*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Matthew L. Wolford via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford  
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging
> tool for lifelines?
>
>
>
> FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool
> against the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only
> fabricate replacements.
>
>
>
> *From:* Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM
>
> *To:* C List 
>
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore 
>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for
> lifelines?
>
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
>
> I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with
> bare 7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp
> stud fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had
> swage tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round
> fittings, but the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate
> for the stud lifeline fittings.
>
>
>
> I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done
> shortly.
>
>
>
> Does anyone here know?
>
>
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> --
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I would use 1X19 wire for lifelines. I think 7X19 is perfectly strong enough, 
but the strands tend to grab hair and not let it go. Just a minor irritant, I 
know, but we do tend to lean on the lifelines and many will find this a pain!
Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jan 2, 2019, at 11:50, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When I made my new lifelines last year, I bought a crimping tool at Bacon 
> Sails.  It was a little metal block with holes for 4 sizes of crimps, with a 
> bolt on each end that gets tightened down to make the crimp.  It cost about 
> $35 and was handy as can be.
>  
> Steve Demore
> S/V Doin’ It Right
> C 20 MK1
>  
> From: Della Barba, Joe [mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov] 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 10:34 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool 
> for lifelines?
>  
> Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West Marine 
> has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines for pretty 
> cheap. If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 pieces of wire, 4 
> ends, and labor to press them on. I think it was something like $120 or so 
> for my boat.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
> Wolford via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for 
> lifelines?
>  
> FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool 
> against the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only fabricate 
> replacements.
>  
> From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM
> To: C List
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore
> Subject: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?
>  
> Hello all,
>  
> I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with 
> bare 7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp 
> stud fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had 
> swage tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round 
> fittings, but the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate 
> for the stud lifeline fittings.
>  
> I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
> shortly.
>  
> Does anyone here know?
>  
> Thank you!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis- After having problems with leaking joints of threaded home plumbing 
projects, I did some reading on line about how professionals make joints 
without leaks.  The overwhelming consensus was that teflon tape is useless and 
that is consistent with my experience.  So I never use teflon tape for anything 
anymore.  I now use only pipe thread compound on home and boat plumbing 
projects and have not had any problems with leaks.  I think that makes more 
sense in this case and replacing the anode more frequently than every 25 years 
will probably make it easier to get the threads loose.  There is no dissimilar 
metals issue with the water tank or heat exchanger to need tef-gel.  

PS- I forgot to ask this- I am not sure I understand the electrical circuit of 
metals in the boat case that requires these anodes.  If the water heater or 
engine heat exchanger anode is completely gone, but the shaft anodes are 
present, is there still a danger to metals?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jan 2, 2019, at 11:19 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Both?  Kinda.  Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel.  I 
> have some.  However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort.  I 
> think pipe joint compound would work fine.  Teflon tape would probably be OK 
> also.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> 
> So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one?
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

When I made my new lifelines last year, I bought a crimping tool at Bacon 
Sails.  It was a little metal block with holes for 4 sizes of crimps, with a 
bolt on each end that gets tightened down to make the crimp.  It cost about $35 
and was handy as can be.

 

Steve Demore
S/V Doin’ It Right
C 20 MK1

 

From: Della Barba, Joe [mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 10:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool 
for lifelines?

 

Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West Marine 
has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines for pretty cheap. 
If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 pieces of wire, 4 ends, and 
labor to press them on. I think it was something like $120 or so for my boat.

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford mailto:wolf...@erie.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for 
lifelines?

 

FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool against 
the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only fabricate 
replacements.

 

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List   

Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM

To: C   List 

Cc: Bruce Whitmore   

Subject: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

 

Hello all,

 

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.

 

I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.

 

Does anyone here know? 

 

Thank you!

 

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

  _  

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Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dave,

I commend you for being able to budge the anode with the heater still in place. 
I tried and failed. I managed to do it only after the heater was out of the 
boat.

Happy New Year!

Marek

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 10:17
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

Then I pulled out my bigger wrench to try.  It was very difficult to find an 
angle to get it on in a place I could pull on, but finally managed and low and 
behold, it finally budged.  I thought I was going to pull the whole water 
heater off its mount, but the threads gave first.  I was then able to remove it 
iwth the smaller wrench and will replace in the spring.  So Marek and Josh get 
bonus points for that suggestion if we are keeping track.
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Lifeline replacement is high on my list for this spring, so let me ask a 
question.  I have two lines each side, the upper passes through 
relatively large eyes on top of the stanchions while the lower passes 
through holes barely bigger than the wire diameter, drilled through each 
stanchion. The upper line is no problem, but how were you able to fit 
the swaged or pressed ends through the holes, or do you have a different 
arrangement?  It appears to me I'd have to do the swage or press 
fittings in place.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/2/2019 10:33 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West 
Marine has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines 
for pretty cheap. If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 
pieces of wire, 4 ends, and labor to press them on. I think it was 
something like $120 or so for my boat.


*/Joe Della Barba/*

*/Coquina/*

*/C 35 MK I/*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford 
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging 
tool for lifelines?


FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage 
tool against the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging 
Only fabricate replacements.


*From:*Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 

*Sent:*Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM

*To:*C List 

*Cc:*Bruce Whitmore 

*Subject:*Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

Hello all,

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go 
with bare 7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the 
hand crimp stud fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  
West Marine's had swage tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) 
fittings and round fittings, but the person at the store had no idea 
if the tool was adequate for the stud lifeline fittings.


I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job 
done shortly.


Does anyone here know?

Thank you!

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 



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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Both?  Kinda.  Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel.  I
have some.  However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort.
I think pipe joint compound would work fine.  Teflon tape would probably be
OK also.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one?
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West Marine 
has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines for pretty cheap. 
If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 pieces of wire, 4 ends, and 
labor to press them on. I think it was something like $120 or so for my boat.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for 
lifelines?

FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool against 
the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only fabricate 
replacements.

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

Hello all,

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.

I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.

Does anyone here know?

Thank you!

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List replacing anodes

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I wanted to report back on progress on this job.  I had sprayed the water 
heater anode with PB Blaster and tried again with the same pipe wrench and 
still no luck.  Then I pulled out my bigger wrench to try.  It was very 
difficult to find an angle to get it on in a place I could pull on, but finally 
managed and low and behold, it finally budged.  I thought I was going to pull 
the whole water heater off its mount, but the threads gave first.  I was then 
able to remove it iwth the smaller wrench and will replace in the spring.  So 
Marek and Josh get bonus points for that suggestion if we are keeping track.

So question now is Tefgel or pipe thread compound on the new one?

I also got the end cap off the heat exchanger and as predicted, there were lots 
of bits of old anode inside.  The hassle is that it appears that you can’t 
install the new anode while the heat exchanger is mounted on the engine.  The 
anode is too long to fit into the narrow space underneath to slide it in.  So I 
am hoping that if I remove one bolt, I can rotate it enough to get the new one 
in without taking everything apart.  I guess the plus of this is it will be 
that much less likely to have stuck bolts if these are exercised periodically.  
Thanks for the suggestions and Happy New Year.   Dave

> On Dec 4, 2018, at 8:57 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I replaced my water heater last year. When it was still installed, I tried to 
> remove the anode from it. I tried various options and nothing worked. When I 
> removed it from the boat, I managed to unscrew it. You need the proper 
> leverage. In my case the close quarters did not help. A bigger wrench or a 
> stronger arm should help. But you need a good purchase in the first place.
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2018 00:01
> To: C List <>
> Cc: Josh Muckley <>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing anodes
>  
> As for the water heater, it sounds like you need to get a bigger pipe wrench. 
>  I'll PM you a picture I took of mine tonight.  It is about 4 years old and 
> looking pretty rough.  I think it will last at least through till next year.
>  
> Use a shop-vac to suck out the other piece of the anode from the engine.
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
>  

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

[David via CnC-List]

Confession Time...

While I have the diary for individual disbursement, the call, it seems, was not 
recorded.

Ugh.   Sorry.

Highlights;

  *   becalmed 12 hours, encountered 3 storms, never over 40 knots.
  *   Every day sent out three or four VHF calls noting that he did not need 
help and if within earshot, could the receiver provide weather and perhaps, if 
seen on radar, a position.  One receiver actually patched a call out to his 
wife.  Who was not home, but the answering machine was glad to hear from him.
  *   No rig modifications at all
  *   Manual self steering with tiller (diagram available).
  *   Returned with half of standard fuel tank full and 25 of 50 gals. of water.
  *   Was very miserly with battery use.
  *   Used sextant to navigate offshore, with Loran coastal (with the exception 
of the VHF  above).
  *   Storage was plentiful as it was only himself.
  *   Got 5 hours of sleep a day in 45 minute increments.   Felt great when he 
got there.
  *   Broke a lower which he repaired.
  *   Boat was shipped back
  *   Sold boat and subsequently purchased a Niagra 35 in which he great 
circled the Atlantic over two years with two other crew.
  *   Would only change one thing.  He headed east too soon and encountered 
cold and threat of icebergs.  Should have headed south a few hundred miles more.
  *   No furling.  3 reef main, jib, genoa, self steering sail, storm jib and 
trysail was the inventory

Anyone on call please add to the memory bank.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: Steve Thomas 
Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2019 9:35 AM
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Call At 1:00pm (EST) Today!

Hey David,
   I sure would appreciate a copy of Denis's diary. I also 
appreciate the effort in putting the call together. Although I was not able to 
participate I will be listening to the recording.

Best regards,

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

P.S.   Happy New Year!

 David via CnC-List  wrote:
Hello All,

Please join us for a call with Denis about his transatlantic passage aboard his 
C & C 27 Mk 5.

Call details;


  *   12/31 at 1:00pm EST

  *   (605) 472-5628.  Access code 542240

Playback number for those who cannot make the scheduled call is (605) 475-4957

Please mute your phones!!!

I tried to attached his diary from his passage to this email, but the server 
did not like that.  Send me an email personally and I will forward it to you.

Whatever questions you have I will forward to Denis prior to the call. Even if 
you cannot make the call, do send along your questions.

The call will be an hour (approximate) in duration.

If you are so inclined to donate for the call please donate our Friend Stu.



David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool against 
the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only fabricate 
replacements.

From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

Hello all,

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.

I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.


Does anyone here know? 


Thank you!


Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net




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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You need to use a crimping tool not a swaging tool.  They are different
tools.  They are NOT interchangeable.  I have both.

This is the crimp tool:  https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=338042

You can use one of these:  https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1044153

With the lever style you make 3 crimps.  With the bolt style you make 5
crimps.

I rotate the fitting 180 degrees after each crimp.  If you don't, the
fitting will curve slightly.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 7:43 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with
> bare 7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp
> stud fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had
> swage tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round
> fittings, but the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate
> for the stud lifeline fittings.
>
> I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done
> shortly.
>
> Does anyone here know?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That crimper is supposed to be properly "calibrated".  I say it will
probably get you through in a pinch but a "proper" roller swage is IMO a
better option.  A lot of local boat yards, particularly those that do
rigging, will have a roller swaging tool.  I think you'll be much happier
with the outcome and have more confidence in the strength of a critical
safety system.

You may also find a West Marine with an in house rigging shop... They will
have the roller swaging tool as well.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Jan 2, 2019, 8:43 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with
> bare 7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp
> stud fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had
> swage tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round
> fittings, but the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate
> for the stud lifeline fittings.
>
> I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done
> shortly.
>
> Does anyone here know?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go with bare 
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the hand crimp stud 
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  West Marine's had swage 
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings and round fittings, but 
the person at the store had no idea if the tool was adequate for the stud 
lifeline fittings.
I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job done 
shortly.

Does anyone here know? 

Thank you!

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray