Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

[james via CnC-List]

Joyce,

According to the Brochure on Stu's site, 41(c), the air draft on you 
boat is 60' 4". No worries on any of the bridges on the ICW.


James

On 9/27/2019 3:30 PM, joyce mango via CnC-List wrote:

Hi-

Really struggling to get exact measurement of our mast above waterline 
on C 41 1986 (just the normal design model) to see if we could do 
the "Hatteras bypass" stretch of the ditch.   I'm thinking our air 
draft is 63 feet, approx, but don't want to hit our newly purchased 
boat's mast!  Anyone know how I can get a more exact measure - did the 
halyard thing, but measuring from mast to waterline seems impossibly 
imprecise


Thanks,
Joyce

L. Eleanor Joyce Mango
joycemang...@gmail.com 
978.270.2991



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Re: Stus-List Anchor windlass on CnC33-2 ?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

  Adrian - see blog post and pic here.

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/anchor-handling-some-improvement.html


Dave.




-- Forwarded message --
From: Adrian Humphreys 
To: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2019 11:03:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor windlass on CnC33-2 ?
We have a 25# CQR, 25' of chain, and 200' of 3-strand nylon.

Getting the nylon up is not a big problem even at 74 yrs, but the chain as
Dave points out, besides being hard to handle manually, will hop the
centerline roller, then grind against the pulpit and/or the roller furler
drum because of the awkward lead as you pull on the chain.

I am thinking to at least install a separate overhanging anchor roller,
offset one side of the headstay, to improve the lead of the rode, and house
the anchor once under weigh. The CQR is a tight fit in the anchor locker,
and brings a ton of mud aboard even when bucket-washed.

There is very little room to install a windlass on the 33, both on deck and
below (for the vertical axis motor), but the nice thing would be the chain
gypsy to pull that last 25' of chain rode. I am looking at a hand crank
Muir VM500

but how to discharge the rode into the anchor locker? Also it looks like
Muir windlass cranks in one direction only, so you would need enough room
to make complete circles with a winch handle. Better if you could
free-ratchet back, then pull (or push) for power.

Dave, pictures of your neighbor's installation would be most welcome.


Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2
adri...@telamontech.com
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Re: Stus-List Water tank gauges...

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Anyone else notice the casual statement here:  “Rebecca Leah’s holding tanks”?

Be careful folks about what you read on the internet - Some folks are just full 
of it!

I thought Doug was a single guy, but his C 39 has two heads and dual tanks!

He’s helpful and modest!

Ha, Lee 


> On Sep 28, 2019, at 8:31 33AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David,
> I installed these on Rebecca Leah's holding tanks. The warning light type, 
> very easy install, uses no power until tank is full and LED light comes on. 
> 
> https://www.marinesan.com/DTM01-Probe-Assy-Single-probe-p/313002311.htm 
> 
> Been working great. 
> Doug
> 
> On Wed, Sep 25, 2019 at 11:37 AM David Risch via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My 25 still has the aluminum frame windows. I use the same MD Building products 
EPDM weatherstripping cited by Dennis – bought at Lowes. A box is about $20, 
IIRC, and is enough to do 4 portlights. I took a smaple of my old spline to a 
local glass shop that repairs storm doors (which must have plastic – not glass 
– windows. They matched the old spline, at a cost somewhere in the range of 
$0.25 per foot. Installation of the replacement portlights take around 20-30 
minutes per portlight. I need to do it again – it has been something like 
10years since they were last replaced (with no leaks, BTW.

 

Whatever you do, don’t bother trying to R/reseal the metal frames. They are 
bedded in butyl and have never leaked on my 45 year old boat.

 

I replaced the aluminum portlights on my 38 with opening ports, as mentioned by 
another lister. The increased ventilation is a real benefit, but the project 
was a PITA. I bought ports with the same nominal dimensions as the portlights – 
27”x7” I think. But the cutout for the ports required removing about 5/16” of 
glass all around the cutout for the portlight. The opening ports have and inner 
and outer frame that ate boated through the cabin side, but the inner and outer 
skins of the cabin in the location of the portlights are not bonded together or 
cored. So I had to laminate a frame/spacer between the inner and outer skins to 
allow mounting of the port. All in all, I guess I spent 8 or 10 hours on each 
port, spread out over 3 or 4 days to allow for cutting, fitting, laminating, 
curing, and installing.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2019 1:35 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Window spline options (CnC 33-1)

 

Evan,

 

Replacing the lenses in the aluminum frames is straightforward.  I do it every 
7-8 years on my 35-1.  I cut the lenses myself from acrylic I get from 
mcmaster.com  .

 

First, the inner seal is simply D-shaped EDPM weatherstripping that can be 
found at Lowes, Home Depot or Walmart.  MD Building Products and Frost King 
make it.  Amazon sells it also.  Look for MD Building Products 1025 
weatherstripping.

 

Clean the sealing surface on the aluminum frames and stick the adhesive side to 
the frame.  Insert the lens.  Wet the spline with soapy water and use a wooden 
dowel or similar to push the spline in place.

 

You can buy universal spline on amazon much cheaper than the spline sold by 
Holland.  I used C.R. Laurence CRL gray 15/32 Wide glazing spline.  However, 
that spline was a bit hard to insert.  It worked but it was a bit of a pain.  

 

I suspect there are better spline/gasket alternatives out there.  The first 
time I replaced them, I used the spline from Holland.  It worked very well.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019, 11:11 AM Evan Kane via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The metal-framed windows on my 33-1 all leak, and the (vinyl?) spline is 
pulling away at the corners and looks bad. The leak is between the frame and 
the plexi, not the frame and the fiberglass. 

I’m aware that holland marine and south shore sell the spline but at relatively 
large expense. 

The local window shop didn’t have anything matching in stock but recommended 
picking something from CR Laurence’s options ($20-40 for a 100 ft roll), but I 
can’t tell which would work best. 

What is the list using for replacement spline?

Also, do you recommend butyl tape or 3m vhb tape or other products for sealing 
the plexi to the frame?

Please excuse any technical errors using the list on my part, this is my first 
post (likely of many)

Evan



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Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Here are the 3 for the 41 (different variants)

 

*   https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-41
*   https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-41-gp
*   https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-41-limited-ed

 

Neil

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 8:29 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

 

Go to sailboatdata.com   and find your boat.  Most 
listing include a side view design drawing with the waterline shown.  You can 
eyeball an approximation from that.

 

I'd say Ken is close for many of our models with his 18" distance below 
waterline.

 

I have the drawing framed and on the wall in my home office.  I refer to it 
often.  It's a 50:1 scale drawing.  I've always used 18" for my 35-1.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 5:13 PM Chuck Borge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Now you’ve got me wondering...

Since the mast step shoe is at cabin sole level on the transverse grid 
structure, it’s well above the keel sump and associated bolts. 

That said, it may still be below the waterline, but not much. 

I think I’ll take some actual measurements once she is out of the water this 
fall. 

 

Chuck 

 

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 5:49 PM, Neil Andersen mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Keel stepped is by definition below the waterline, but it certainly gives you a 
safe height (a couple of feet to spare).

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 5:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986) 

 

When my mast was removed this past Spring, they charged me by the foot, and 
measured 62’. Assuming the step is at the waterline and your instruments are 
under 2’ above the stick, 64’ is safe. That’s the number I go with. The 
Sakonnet River Bridge in Tiverton, RI claims 64’ at high tide, and we haven’t 
nicked it yet.  

Although I will say that first time made me a bit nervous. 

Hope that helps. 

 

Chuck B

C Tenacious

Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 4:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I taped a 100 foot tape to the top of a long stick then taped the bottom of the 
stick to a halyard, hoisted it so the top of the stick (and tape) was raised 
over the masthead and was even with the tallest thing on the mast (VHF 
antenna), then put the tape on the water.  This method should yield a result 
which is a couple inches longer than the actual draft. 

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 2:31 PM joyce mango via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi- 

 

Really struggling to get exact measurement of our mast above waterline on C 
41 1986 (just the normal design model) to see if we could do the "Hatteras 
bypass" stretch of the ditch.   I'm thinking our air draft is 63 feet, approx, 
but don't want to hit our newly purchased boat's mast!   Anyone know how I can 
get a more exact measure - did the halyard thing, but measuring from mast to 
waterline seems impossibly imprecise

 

Thanks,

Joyce




L. Eleanor Joyce Mango 

joycemang...@gmail.com  

978.270.2991

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

Take a look and listen at your boat.  My mast ends a good 2 feet below the 
waterline at the cabin sole in my estimation.  Try sounding the sides of your 
boat from the inside, you should hear a tonal difference at the waterline.

 

Neil

1982 C 32 FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

From: Chuck Borge  
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 6:12 PM
To: Neil Andersen 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986)

 

Now you’ve got me wondering...

Since the mast step shoe is at cabin sole level on the transverse grid 
structure, it’s well above the keel sump and associated bolts. 

That said, it may still be below the waterline, but not much. 

I think I’ll take some actual measurements once she is out of the water this 
fall. 

 

Chuck 

 

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 5:49 PM, Neil Andersen mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Keel stepped is by definition below the waterline, but it certainly gives you a 
safe height (a couple of feet to spare).

 

Neil

1982 C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD

 

Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661

 

  _  

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > on behalf of Chuck Borge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2019 5:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Chuck Borge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Air draft for C 41 (regular production model, 1986) 

 

When my mast was removed this past Spring, they charged me by the foot, and 
measured 62’. Assuming the step is at the waterline and your instruments are 
under 2’ above the stick, 64’ is safe. That’s the number I go with. The 
Sakonnet River Bridge in Tiverton, RI claims 64’ at high tide, and we haven’t 
nicked it yet.  

Although I will say that first time made me a bit nervous. 

Hope that helps. 

 

Chuck B

C Tenacious

Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 27, 2019, at 4:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I taped a 100 foot tape to the top of a long stick then taped the bottom of the 
stick to a halyard, hoisted it so the top of the stick (and tape) was raised 
over the masthead and was even with the tallest thing on the mast (VHF 
antenna), then put the tape on the water.  This method should yield a result 
which is a couple inches longer than the actual draft. 

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 2:31 PM joyce mango via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi- 

 

Really struggling to get exact measurement of our mast above waterline on C 
41 1986 (just the normal design model) to see if we could do the "Hatteras 
bypass" stretch of the ditch.   I'm thinking our air draft is 63 feet, approx, 
but don't want to hit our newly purchased boat's mast!   Anyone know how I can 
get a more exact measure - did the halyard thing, but measuring from mast to 
waterline seems impossibly imprecise

 

Thanks,

Joyce




L. Eleanor Joyce Mango 

joycemang...@gmail.com  

978.270.2991

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Water tank gauges...

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

David,
I installed these on Rebecca Leah's holding tanks. The warning light type,
very easy install, uses no power until tank is full and LED light comes on.

https://www.marinesan.com/DTM01-Probe-Assy-Single-probe-p/313002311.htm
Been working great.
Doug

On Wed, Sep 25, 2019 at 11:37 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody find or fashion up a top mounted (using inspection port) water
> tank gauge?.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> *David F. Risch*
>
> *(401) 419-4650*
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
LF39
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Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I had the same situation on my 1975 model 25 mk1. The number on the hull is 
25225, and the plate in the cockpit is 250225. I presume that C allowed the 
additional digit  on the plate because they had no idea how many of that model 
would be built when production started.

 

BTW, Hari, to amplify the information you we given about the HIN, in the 5 
character hull designation, the first two characters are the model (25 in my 
case) and the next 3 are the hull number (225 for my boat).

 

This discrepancy in the two numbers caused me a lot of hassle when I moved to 
North Carolina and wanted to register/title the boat. Maryland had listed the 
hull number as 250225 instead of using the proper USCG format.  It took me 2 
trips to Raleigh, photos, and a rubbing of the HIN on the transom to convince 
the state that CCY25225 and CCY250225 were the same boat.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2019 10:26 AM
To: C 
Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail Numbers

 

Dennis

FYI

Interestingly, HONEY is a 1974 model (the last 39 built) and has the HIN on the 
transom's starboard quarter as well as on a metal plate in the forward end of 
the cockpit. Strangely, the do not completely match. The plate does not include 
the moth or year of the build, the transom (real HIN) matches the paperwork in 
the builder's file.




Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald 
HONEY - US12788

1974 C 39TM (#69)
Savannah, GA 31410 USA

 

 

This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you

 

 

 

On Thu, Sep 26, 2019 at 10:05 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

If your boat is 1972 or older, the hull number will not be on the starboard 
transom or quarter.  It would have been on a metal plate attached somewhere in 
the cockpit.  

 

Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Anchor windlass on CnC33-2 ?

[Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List]

We have a 25# CQR, 25' of chain, and 200' of 3-strand nylon.

Getting the nylon up is not a big problem even at 74 yrs, but the chain as Dave 
points out, besides being hard to handle manually, will hop the centerline 
roller, then grind against the pulpit and/or the roller furler drum because of 
the awkward lead as you pull on the chain.

I am thinking to at least install a separate overhanging anchor roller, offset 
one side of the headstay, to improve the lead of the rode, and house the anchor 
once under weigh. The CQR is a tight fit in the anchor locker, and brings a ton 
of mud aboard even when bucket-washed. 

There is very little room to install a windlass on the 33, both on deck and 
below (for the vertical axis motor), but the nice thing would be the chain 
gypsy to pull that last 25' of chain rode. I am looking at a hand crank Muir 
VM500 
  
but how to discharge the rode into the anchor locker? Also it looks like Muir 
windlass cranks in one direction only, so you would need enough room to make 
complete circles with a winch handle. Better if you could free-ratchet back, 
then pull (or push) for power.

Dave, pictures of your neighbor's installation would be most welcome.


Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2 
adri...@telamontech.com




> On Sep 26, 2019, at 10:24 AM, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Anyone installed an anchor windlass on a 33-2?
> 
> How did you?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> Epilogue, Rockport ME
> C 33-2 
> adri...@telamontech.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Anchor windlass on CnC33-2 ?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Choose your anchor carefully. I have a 15 Kg Bruce knock off and about 60
feet of 5/16 anchor chain and that’s really all I want to haul by hand at
68. That anchor has never slipped and others have felt comfortable to raft
up alongside over night. I wear thick rubber gloves to retrieve my anchor.
Sometimes the anchor holds too hard to break free by hand so then I tie off
on a cleat and use engine power to break it free. That vertical windlass
you refer to is called a capstan. So far I have resisted installing a
windlass on my 35MKII mainly because of the cost and work involved. Maybe a
smallish say 10 Kg Rocna anchor would be better

On Sat, Sep 28, 2019 at 8:50 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I see no response yet, and have until recently (just turned 56) felt
> that the 33-2 was really too small to warrant a windlass.   Am now on the
> fence.   Also noticed a 32 at my marina with what appear to be a tidy
> installation of a vertical windlass.  (Adrian, will try to get some pics.)
>  Would like to ask/add a related question - has anyone improved anchor
> handling in general?   Am happy that the 33-2 has a roller and chain
> locker, however I had some excitement this season hand-retrieving 50’ of
> fully extendedchain in a stiff breeze and chop.  The line then later the
> chain hopped off the roller and slammed/wedged into the pulpit stanchion
> base as the boat sheered and bobbed about - very exciting and extremely
> strenuous for a solo sailor.   (With little sea room astern, but that’s a
> seamanship issue).
> No bail on the roller, and the poor lead from hand-hauling didn’t help.
> Really, a short sprit plus the parallel-to-deck lead for the chain afforded
> by a windlass would be ideal,  but that feels like a lot of infrastructure
> for a small lightweight boat.  Any thoughts?
>
> Dave
>
> Windstar 33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Sep 26, 2019, at 10:24 AM, Adrian Humphreys 
> wrote:
> >
> > Anyone installed an anchor windlass on a 33-2?
> >
> > How did you?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Adrian Humphreys
> > Epilogue, Rockport ME
> > C 33-2
> > adri...@telamontech.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Anchor windlass on CnC33-2 ?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I see no response yet, and have until recently (just turned 56) felt that 
the 33-2 was really too small to warrant a windlass.   Am now on the fence.   
Also noticed a 32 at my marina with what appear to be a tidy installation of a 
vertical windlass.  (Adrian, will try to get some pics.)
 Would like to ask/add a related question - has anyone improved anchor handling 
in general?   Am happy that the 33-2 has a roller and chain locker, however I 
had some excitement this season hand-retrieving 50’ of fully extendedchain in a 
stiff breeze and chop.  The line then later the chain hopped off the roller and 
slammed/wedged into the pulpit stanchion base as the boat sheered and bobbed 
about - very exciting and extremely strenuous for a solo sailor.   (With little 
sea room astern, but that’s a seamanship issue). 
No bail on the roller, and the poor lead from hand-hauling didn’t help. Really, 
a short sprit plus the parallel-to-deck lead for the chain afforded by a 
windlass would be ideal,  but that feels like a lot of infrastructure for a 
small lightweight boat.  Any thoughts?

Dave

Windstar 33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2019, at 10:24 AM, Adrian Humphreys  
> wrote:
> 
> Anyone installed an anchor windlass on a 33-2?
> 
> How did you?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> Epilogue, Rockport ME
> C 33-2 
> adri...@telamontech.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

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