Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Ed:
I replaced my pedestal guard with a taller one with a tilted back upper. I
had a machine shop cut the holes for me, before installing it.

Alan Bergen
35k III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 10:52 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m considering adding an instrument pod and a larger pedestal guard to
> the Enterprise, preferably something big enough to handle my Raymarine e9
> Series multifunction display.
>
> Between the thick power cable and the SeaTalk network cable (and the
> ends,) I think I’d drive myself nuts trying to cut holes in the stainless
> steel big enough to not only get those those cables in and out, but also
> feed them where I need them to go.
>
> Has anyone thought of a way to neatly run cabling along the outside of the
> pedestal guard?
>
> I could use a new project.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Very nice setup! I already have everything coming out of the binnacle, so I may 
do exactly the same thing. 

What is this “snow” thing you speak of? I think I remember something call snow 
from long ago. In the beforetime. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Apr 21, 2020, at 2:41 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hello Edd from snowy Michigan.  I added a Navpod to my helm station last year. 
Also installed new (taller) guard, chrome binnacle support/spreader, primed and 
painted the old black, nasty faded pedestal white, and added new decals...along 
with rebuilding the brake and lubing up the steering chain and cables/pulleys.
There were two grommeted enter/exit holes in the front of the binnacle where I 
snaked the wires from my Ray Axiom9 and auto pilot control head through the 
guard, down to just below the compass, to exit the guard tube and into the 
binnacle.  From there, running the wires down the binnacle and into the port 
aft locker was easy. 
I also really needed a compact drink holder in front of the helm, so I made one 
out of PVC board and old smoked plexiglass left over from changing out the 
cabin sidelights.  The drink holder effectively hides the wires with a 
carefully field-engineered-placed receiver for my cockpit table (see where the 
two horizontal boards are close together-the wires are tucked in between), and 
also holds a cellphone or two along with up to 4 cold beverages. (Bell's Oberon 
is the official boat beer of the summer;-).  Lastly, I velcro-ed the winch 
handle pockets to the sides.  Unobtrusive, compact and functional.  We like it, 
at least.  I hope this pic works:  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xB1maiJ8WTGEDuTf8 




Chuck Saur

517 490-5926 Cell



 

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Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

Hello Edd from snowy Michigan.  I added a Navpod to my helm station last
year. Also installed new (taller) guard, chrome binnacle support/spreader,
primed and painted the old black, nasty faded pedestal white, and added new
decals...along with rebuilding the brake and lubing up the steering chain
and cables/pulleys.
There were two grommeted enter/exit holes in the front of the binnacle
where I snaked the wires from my Ray Axiom9 and auto pilot control head
through the guard, down to just below the compass, to exit the guard tube
and into the binnacle.  From there, running the wires down the binnacle and
into the port aft locker was easy.
I also really needed a compact drink holder in front of the helm, so I made
one out of PVC board and old smoked plexiglass left over from changing out
the cabin sidelights.  The drink holder effectively hides the wires with a
carefully field-engineered-placed receiver for my cockpit table (see where
the two horizontal boards are close together-the wires are tucked in
between), and also holds a cellphone or two along with up to 4 cold
beverages. (Bell's Oberon is the official boat beer of the summer;-).
Lastly, I velcro-ed the winch handle pockets to the sides.  Unobtrusive,
compact and functional.  We like it, at least.  I hope this pic works:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xB1maiJ8WTGEDuTf8




*Chuck Saur*

517 490-5926 Cell
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Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Run them down the outside of the guard and wrap them in macrame.


On Tue, Apr 21, 2020 at 10:52 AM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m considering adding an instrument pod and a larger pedestal guard to
> the Enterprise, preferably something big enough to handle my Raymarine e9
> Series multifunction display.
>
> Between the thick power cable and the SeaTalk network cable (and the
> ends,) I think I’d drive myself nuts trying to cut holes in the stainless
> steel big enough to not only get those those cables in and out, but also
> feed them where I need them to go.
>
> Has anyone thought of a way to neatly run cabling along the outside of the
> pedestal guard?
>
> I could use a new project.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C LandFall39
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Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Josh,

Photos would be great, including how you got cabling from the guard to an 
accessible point in the ceiling of the aft cabin (and to the port locker). 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Apr 21, 2020, at 2:03 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

Edd,

I replaced the pedestal guard and installed a navpod for my new B 9" plotter 
last year.  Navpod makes an oversized guard which made getting all the wires in 
very easy.  I actually ran considerably more wires than I needed since the 
system has the ability to interface wirelessly.  The nice thing about using the 
navpod is that the holes in the guard can be cut with a die-grinder and be 
pretty raggedy and ugly.  I used a file to smooth the edges so as to protect 
the wires but it was definitely something that I was glad to be able to hide 
behind the navpod box.  Turned out very professional looking and all the wires 
exit through the bottom of the guard posts, through the deck, and are 
accessible from the ceiling of the aft cabin.  We fished connections over from 
the port locker in the aft cabin.  I'll see if I can find some pictures.

Unfortunately it wasn't a cheap project.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 



On Tue, Apr 21, 2020, 13:52 Edd Schillay via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Listers,

I’m considering adding an instrument pod and a larger pedestal guard to the 
Enterprise, preferably something big enough to handle my Raymarine e9 Series 
multifunction display. 

Between the thick power cable and the SeaTalk network cable (and the ends,) I 
think I’d drive myself nuts trying to cut holes in the stainless steel big 
enough to not only get those those cables in and out, but also feed them where 
I need them to go. 

Has anyone thought of a way to neatly run cabling along the outside of the 
pedestal guard?  

I could use a new project. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











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Re: Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

I replaced the pedestal guard and installed a navpod for my new B 9"
plotter last year.  Navpod makes an oversized guard which made getting all
the wires in very easy.  I actually ran considerably more wires than I
needed since the system has the ability to interface wirelessly.  The nice
thing about using the navpod is that the holes in the guard can be cut with
a die-grinder and be pretty raggedy and ugly.  I used a file to smooth the
edges so as to protect the wires but it was definitely something that I was
glad to be able to hide behind the navpod box.  Turned out very
professional looking and all the wires exit through the bottom of the guard
posts, through the deck, and are accessible from the ceiling of the aft
cabin.  We fished connections over from the port locker in the aft cabin.
I'll see if I can find some pictures.

Unfortunately it wasn't a cheap project.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Apr 21, 2020, 13:52 Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m considering adding an instrument pod and a larger pedestal guard to
> the Enterprise, preferably something big enough to handle my Raymarine e9
> Series multifunction display.
>
> Between the thick power cable and the SeaTalk network cable (and the
> ends,) I think I’d drive myself nuts trying to cut holes in the stainless
> steel big enough to not only get those those cables in and out, but also
> feed them where I need them to go.
>
> Has anyone thought of a way to neatly run cabling along the outside of the
> pedestal guard?
>
> I could use a new project.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Instrument Cabling / Edson Pedestal Guard

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

I’m considering adding an instrument pod and a larger pedestal guard to the 
Enterprise, preferably something big enough to handle my Raymarine e9 Series 
multifunction display. 

Between the thick power cable and the SeaTalk network cable (and the ends,) I 
think I’d drive myself nuts trying to cut holes in the stainless steel big 
enough to not only get those those cables in and out, but also feed them where 
I need them to go. 

Has anyone thought of a way to neatly run cabling along the outside of the 
pedestal guard?  

I could use a new project. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











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Stus-List parts

[Lee via CnC-List]

Fred,do you have a source for B parts ,such as outer glass for h5000 display 
? Thanks Lee

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

A proper outside/yard machinist should have the facilities in ready to
quickly and with relative ease do this type of work for you.

I know this might sound like a great project, but even with my experience
in manufacturing and fixturing and machining, I would probably still call
someone with a proper portable drill press to do this work.  I know of one
shop local to me who has such facilities, let me know if you want their
contact info- owner is a liveaboard even!




On Mon, Apr 20, 2020, 1:27 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Chuck.  I had measured using a old style caliper and then reading
> it on the scale on my digital caliper which came out as 75mm.  But after
> your caution I decided to waits for a real micrometer to get the true(r)
> measurement.
>
> I think that drilling the hole for the through bold will be a huge PITA as
> the short end of the arm is facing the transom and the vertical support we
> put in to reenforce the deck.  Also, there's not much room there.  Should
> be fun...
>
> Tom B
>
> At 06:46 AM 4/20/2020, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2020 08:11:17 -0400
> From: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 37+/40
> Message-ID: <01ec01d6170c$cc1ce360$6456aa20$@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="UTF-8"
>
> Tom,
> Thought I'd weigh in as a former Edsonite..  The most important thing to
> realize when installing the autopilot is that the clamping action of the
> arm and cap for the tiller arm is the primary form of attachment to the
> rudder post.  Edson makes the arm with a .002" clamping tolerance to the
> diameter of the rudder post.  The secondary or "failsafe" attachment is a
> key, through bolt, or set screws.  When you order your tiller arm, don't
> assume that C always used the same diameter stainless post for every boat
> and model.  It's important to get precise measurement of the post where you
> wish to attach the arm, preferably using a digital caliper to achieve the
> proper tolerance.  Measure the exact diameter of the post, and take several
> measurements as you rotate the caliper around the post at a variety of
> positions where the tiller arm will attach.  When Edson bores the arm to
> your specification, they'll insert a small piece of paper between the arm
> and cap.  Removing it will give the arm the proper undersized clamping
> tolerance needed for the arm to grab the post without slippage.  Again, the
> keyway or through bolt should prevent the arm from rotating ONLY if the
> clamping tolerance is compromised, as in a hard grounding, rudder stop
> failure, or other drastic event.
>
> As you've found, if there's no accessible keyway cut in the post, the
> through bolt method is preferred if the post is hollow (typical with  SS
> posts) or set screws if the post is solid (usually with a bronze rudder
> post).  Getting the arm positioned to drill the post and tiller arm can be
> problematic, finding a drill bit long enough to get it in place and then
> drilling through the hard steel (thus the need for a carbide bit and some
> lubricating oil to prevent work hardening the bit) but avoid the temptation
> to "pre drill" the arm before installing on the post.  This is because the
> likelihood of you being able to match up the holes on the post with the
> holes on the arm are not great given the confined space you'll have to work
> with and the difficulty of keeping the drill level while you work.
> The tiller arm has a very important plus side as it enables your autopilot
> to serve as an emergency tiller in the event of a steering system failure
> such as a fractured radial drive, cable breakage or idler failure.
> Finally, make sure that the autopilot isn't set up as the rudder stop as
> damage to the autopilot can occur.
> Good luck with the install and Edson is a good source for advice..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>
> >From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Tom
> Buscaglia via CnC-List
> >Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2020 6:19 PM
>  ...snip...
> >... greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to
> send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[Chris Bennett via CnC-List]

Thanks Denis for the suggestion - I will read up on torque multipliers.

Joe - Thanks for your comments. The C 24 has large stainless washers (in
one case quite a few of them stacked) to spread the load. I will go
carefully so as not to crush the fibreglass and if I cannot approach the
correct torque perhaps I will need to fabricate some larger stainless
backing plates.

Regards,
Chris
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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

I’ve had both raymarine control with electric drive and the current Garmin 
control with Octopus ram on my boat.

 

Garmin hands down.  Octopus vs Ray Electric drive is virtually no difference in 
feel.   Power consumption the Octopus is another hands down winner.  

 

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of bwhitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 21, 2020 7:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

 

Hi Gary,

 

I have to disagree with you on the comment regarding the hydraulic drive.  I 
have an Octopus unit, and when it is disengaged, I can feel the water flowing 
over the rudder from my prop when under power - it is that sensitive.  For such 
a large boat, the steering is remarkably sensitive.

 

Bruce Whitmore

C 37/40+

"Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

 

 

 

Sent from Samsung tablet.

 

 

 Original message 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 4/20/20 2:35 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Gary Russell mailto:captnga...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install 

 

Regardless of the controller you use, I would recommend the Raymarine Electric 
Drive Unit (Type 2?).  The benefit of an electric drive unit is it doesn't have 
the drag on the wheel/tiller when in standby mode.  The hydraulic units I've 
used make it hard to feel the boat when hand steering.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~

 

 

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 11:38 AM Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I’ve been crawling around below deck on our C 33/2 contemplating the 
installation of a below deck autopilot as well. My rudder post is 2.373 or 
roughly 2-3/8 diameter, appears to be solid stainless. My keyway extends down 
below the quadrant by about 4 inches or so, right where the arm needs to go, 
didn’t realize how lucky I was until I read through this post. So, to my 
question, what are you using for a drive unit? I’ve looked at the Octopus R/S 
online also considering a few others but curious as to what others have decided 
on.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse
C 33/2
Lake Huron
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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,I have to disagree with you on the comment regarding the hydraulic 
drive.  I have an Octopus unit, and when it is disengaged, I can feel the water 
flowing over the rudder from my prop when under power - it is that sensitive.  
For such a large boat, the steering is remarkably sensitive.Bruce WhitmoreC 
37/40+"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FLSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/20/20  2:35 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Gary Russell  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install Regardless of the controller you use, I 
would recommend the Raymarine Electric Drive Unit (Type 2?).  The benefit of an 
electric drive unit is it doesn't have the drag on the wheel/tiller when in 
standby mode.  The hydraulic units I've used make it hard to feel the boat when 
hand steering.GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C 37+East Greenwich, RI, 
USA~~~_/)~~On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 11:38 AM Bradley Lumgair via 
CnC-List  wrote:I’ve been crawling around below deck on 
our C 33/2 contemplating the installation of a below deck autopilot as well. 
My rudder post is 2.373 or roughly 2-3/8 diameter, appears to be solid 
stainless. My keyway extends down below the quadrant by about 4 inches or so, 
right where the arm needs to go, didn’t realize how lucky I was until I read 
through this post. So, to my question, what are you using for a drive unit? 
I’ve looked at the Octopus R/S online also considering a few others but curious 
as to what others have decided on.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse
C 33/2
Lake Huron
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Re: Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I, like Bryan, went with the Raymarine EV200, and connected it to an existing 
Octopus hydraulic ram.  It works quite well.  I do, however have a complaint 
about the remote.  It just won't stay charged even when left in the off 
position for a week or two.  I've already sent it back to Raymarine when I 
noticed the charge contacts were turning green and not connecting to the 
charger despite the remote having been kept in a dry place and not being 
exposed to harsh conditions.  I can't speak to other brands for comparison.Hope 
you find this helpful,BruceSent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Bryan Colwell via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/20/20  10:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bryan Colwell  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Linear Auto Pilot install Brad,I installed the Raymarine EV200 with 
type I linear drive on my 34+.  I couldn't be happier with the results. Very 
powerful in all points of sail. Zero feedback with the unit in standby. I sail 
solo 90% of the time and it would be very difficult without it. The wireless 
remote is pretty handy too!Bryan ColwellFourth Watch 1991 C 34+Anacortes, 
WAOn Mon, Apr 20, 2020, 8:38 AM Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
 wrote:I’ve been crawling around below deck on our C 
33/2 contemplating the installation of a below deck autopilot as well. My 
rudder post is 2.373 or roughly 2-3/8 diameter, appears to be solid stainless. 
My keyway extends down below the quadrant by about 4 inches or so, right where 
the arm needs to go, didn’t realize how lucky I was until I read through this 
post. So, to my question, what are you using for a drive unit? I’ve looked at 
the Octopus R/S online also considering a few others but curious as to what 
others have decided on.
Thanks
Brad
Pulse
C 33/2
Lake Huron
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