Stus-List Hatch screens

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Joe, et al,

My boat came from the original owner with these mosquito screens I have, 
and will never use, but I will explain.   These must have been custom 
measured and madethe companion way is a synthetic micro netting with 
something like a miniature stone or something stitched all along the 
edges that simply drapes over the open companionway...across the top, 
down both sides and along the bottom.  The main cabin and head hatch 
openings have fitted screens with Velcro to hold in place from the inside.


Useful stuff but not needed where I sail.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 4/25/2020 1:27 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
I got some mosquito screen from a camping store and cut two big 
squares out of it. I drape them over the hatches from the outside and 
use a piece of heavy dockline to hold them in place. I can easily open 
and close the hatches from inside for passing showers. I still have my 
wood framed inside screens that are a PITA to store and not totally 
bug proof either.


Joe

Coquina


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Stus-List Fwd: Re: 35 MK I listing

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Joe

Yes, As a frequent contributor, how could I miss you ??

Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI


Present BoatOwner
Data Age 	Year 	Type 	Hull # 	Registration 	Name 	Former Name 	Sail # 
Berthed /
Home Port 	Years own 	Bought 	Last 	First 	e-mail 	City 	State/Prov 
Yacht Club 	Phone 	First

SailYears Sailing
10-19   1973C 35 MK I 179
CCY351790373 	553128-b 	Coquina 			Annapolis MD 	## 	1977 	Barba 
Joe 	j...@dellabarba.com  






Barba.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Re: Stus-List Keel movement- now bolt torque

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Keel bolt torque on the hard or in the watera classic on Stu's 
List.  I’ll jump in….


Torquing keel bolts in the water is equivalent to tightening the head 
bolts on an engine while it's running, probably not a good idea.  Bolted 
joints are intended to be initially preloaded by tightening the nut and 
bolt before the load is applied.


What has to be considered for keel bolts first is that the design 
condition for the hull/keel joint is when the boat is on her beam ends, 
that’s the maximum load that can be applied, and in this condition the 
purpose of the keel bolts is to keep the hull/keel interface in 
compression.  If the compression goes to zero – let’s say just to 
illustrate, a gap opens between hull and keel – the bolts would now be 
trying to support the keel under bending load, and they’d snap in a 
heartbeat.  ( A quick calculation for my 35-1 keel with 6 one-inch bolts 
shows about 200,000 psi stress in that condition).  So the point of 
torquing the bolts is to create enough pre-compression in the joint, and 
if you torque while under load, i.e., in the water, you are giving up 
some of that margin.  Will it cause the keel to fall off?  No, but we’re 
lessening the safety factor, and it’s all about having some margin.  
Thus the best way to tighten keel bolts is on the hard to get the most 
preload.


Having said that, in Chris’s case which started this discussion, my 
recommendation was to tighten the bolts in the water if his keel’s 
loose, as I said above the last thing you want is to lose compression, 
but to go to a little lower torque than in the specs. Then torque to 
full specs when on the jackstands later.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/24/2020 1:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Chris & Josh,

I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only be tightened while the 
boat is ashore.


While that is a convenient activity during the annual haulout period 
that Eastern boats get, it is not entirely practical for us on the 
West Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or 
three years.


The technical sheet in the link shows the theoretical load on a 1" 
bolt (torque to 350 ft-lbs spec) is ~12,000 lbs. This is more than the 
weight of the keel such that it does not matter whether the keel is 
supported on the ground or hanging in the water, the joint is held 
firmly together by one keelbolt. The rest are not required to do 
anything at this time.

https://www.hobson.com.au/files/technical/utd-gd-torque-tension.pdf

I suggest that the proper procedure for tightening keelboats be 
observed whether the boat is in water or in the yard.


For a 1" keelboat to 350 ft-lbs torque:

start with centre nut and take it to 250 ft-lbs, repeat for other
nuts alternating for and aft sequence 
remove centre nut and lubricate, retorque to 300 ft-lbs, repeat as
for other nuts as above 
retorque centre nut to 350 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above 

Then you can a have a beer Chris and reflect on how fortunate you are 
to be sailing B.C South Coast. Anything 100 miles to the east of you 
is beyond Hope.

   :) 

Cheers, Russ
East side o'  Vancouver Island


At 08:15 AM 4/24/2020, you wrote:

Chris,

The prevailing wisdom of this list suggests that the keel bolts only 
be torqued while the boat is resting on its keel, generally about 60% 
of it's weight depending on the design.  In this way you are not 
turning the nuts against the weight of the keel or even trying to 
compress the bedding material.  IMO, it is likely that you will find 
more movement in the nuts when you retorque on dry land.


I am not familiar with the design of your particular boat but some 
boats have keel bolts which are entirely inaccessible with the mast 
in place.  Make sure there isn't one (or two) hiding somewhere.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 20:59 Chris Bennett via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Status update: I ended up torquing the keel bolts. They were not
incredibly loose but all of them needed tightening, two by a turn
or more and the other two by less than a turn. I will know if
this removed the keel movement when the boat is next hauled out,
although I am also thinking of diving on her to see if I can
detect any wiggle that way (I live in BC and the water is pretty
cold but manageable for a few minutes with a wet suit - I hope!).
I believe that a very small looseness in a narrow keel root would
result in a fairly noticeable movement at the tip of a 3 foot
keel - even 1/8 inch of movement over 2 inches width would
translate into a couple of inches at the tip, if I have that
right. So hopefully this was the issue!

I took Drifter for a sail today after rebuilding the mast step
and did not notice any flexing or movement in the floors or hull
(made pencil marks on the floors and adjacent hull skin and

Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Thanks, Chuck and Alan. I had not planned on fully dropping the keel this
year. The boat is currently in Jamestown RI. I will be sailing her up to
Beverly, MA after she is launched. The mast is currently up,and I have been
quoted 500 each way to unstep and step. I was hoping to hold off until next
year to unstep. This year,  I was planning on just grinding out the joint
(which I have already done) tightening the bolts with new plates/washers,
and fairing the joint with GFlex and fairing filler (303?). There is
currently 4200 or something similar in the keel hull joint. I am planning
to drop the mast next fall, and then fully assessing/addressing the mast
step. My surveyor thought the mast step was in good condition, although the
mast was up when surveyed.  The boat, based on what I could tell by the C
plate in the back of the cockpit, was built in Niagara on the Lake. From
what I have read elsewhere, the mast steps from that facility were more
solidly than those built in RI. Should I also glass the joint and then
re-grind in the fall? Other comments? Safety issues?
Does anyone have the washer sizes?
Thanks.
Best,
David Swensen
Freya
1985 35 MK III
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

>
> David:
>
> I checked my boat, and the large square washers are different sizes,
depending on the space around each keel bolt. I recommend waiting until you
do the measurements yourself.

Alan Bergen

>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Years own Bought
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On 4/24/2020 6:47 PM, David Swensen via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is
> evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all
> who participate.
> I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of addressing
> the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are not stainless and
> I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get in to the boat yard for
> a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone had the dimensions of those
> plates so that I could have them manufactured ahead of time.
>  If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.
>
> Best,
>
> David Swensen
>  sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
> 1985 C 35 MK III
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!_R3l4jG4rT0eHzihhlpxTMqoQnMpb0UjoV2zVEHZRZGkvPgmn0S-vlAfD1QC9JrBCVw$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 38 mkII Pilot Berth Dimensions

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Hello Cam welcome!  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2020, at 10:43 AM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Cam,
> 
> I have been running a list of of C owners for a couple of years that 
> started out as to their experience and how long they had their boat.  It has 
> expanded thru multiple sources to over 2300 C  For all the C 38 there 
> are 235 boats and 50 C 38  Mk2s contained on the list.  Any details your 
> boat/yourself would be appreciated. If you would like I can drop you the list 
> of the C 38s. It is too big for the CnC forum.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball C 35 Mk2
> Bristol, RI 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Present Boat  Year Built
> Type C xx Mkx cust
> cb, tr, wk, sd, etc
> Hull # (HIN) CCY, ZCC
> Registration-USCG or Transport Canada
> Name
> Former Name
> Sail #
> Berthed
> Years own
> Year Bought
> Owner Last
> First
> e-mail
> City
> State/Prov
> Yacht Club
> Phone
> First
> Sail
> Years Sailing
> 
> 
> On 4/25/2020 1:37 PM, Cam Lubbock via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hello all, 
>> 
>> I am brand new to the list and also to C Ownership. Looks like this will 
>> be a great resource! 
>> 
>> I am wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the pilot berths on the 38 
>> mkII? I realize they are tapered, so just the max. and min. width and the 
>> length would be great. I am not able to access the boat at this time due to 
>> COVID closures, but I’m trying to figure out some storage solutions to make 
>> life easier for us while I’m stuck at home. 
>> 
>> I am thinking of buying some plastic storage totes that I can load up at 
>> home with food and supplies and just throw them up on one on the pilot 
>> berths to make a quick weekend trip a lot easier rather than loading 
>> everything from bags into lockers and then unloading a couple days later. 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Cam 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I was under the impression that the bolts on my 30-1 are to be torqued to over 
300 pounds. Am I mistaken?

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chris Bennett via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 2:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Bennett 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

 

Russ - thanks for the west coast humour - yes we are lucky here to have our 
boats in the water year round - though it does have its downsides too in that 
the hulls never dry out and growth on the bottom continues even in the winter. 

 

The torques I applied to the 3/4 inch bolts were around 140 foot pounds. After 
consulting some torque figures on this website, I looked up a value for 3/4 
inch stainless bolts on a fastener website that had been recommended to me. I 
increased that value by about 10% to allow for the extra weight of the keel. 
The 4th bolt under the mast step is too tight and buried to get a torque wrench 
on so I tightened it with a beefy 1/2 inch socket wrench as far as possible to 
a guesstimated 40-50 foot pounds. Incidentally, 140 foot pounds was about as 
much as I could easily put on the torque wrench without adding leverage of an 
extension handle or torque converter.

 

Chris

 

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Re: Stus-List C 38 mkII Pilot Berth Dimensions

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Cam,

I have been running a list of of C owners for a couple of years that 
started out as to their experience and how long they had their boat.  It 
has expanded thru multiple sources to over 2300 C  For all the C 
38 there are 235 boats and 50 C 38  Mk2s contained on the list.  Any 
details your boat/yourself would be appreciated. If you would like I can 
drop you the list of the C 38s. It is too big for the CnC forum.


Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI




Present BoatYear Built
Type C xx Mkx cust
cb, tr, wk, sd, etc
Hull # (HIN) CCY, ZCC
Registration-USCG or Transport Canada
Name
Former Name
Sail #
Berthed
Years own
Year Bought
Owner   Last
First
e-mail
City
State/Prov
Yacht Club
Phone
First
Sail
Years Sailing


On 4/25/2020 1:37 PM, Cam Lubbock via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I am brand new to the list and also to C Ownership. Looks like this will be a 
great resource!

I am wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the pilot berths on the 38 
mkII? I realize they are tapered, so just the max. and min. width and the 
length would be great. I am not able to access the boat at this time due to 
COVID closures, but I’m trying to figure out some storage solutions to make 
life easier for us while I’m stuck at home.

I am thinking of buying some plastic storage totes that I can load up at home 
with food and supplies and just throw them up on one on the pilot berths to 
make a quick weekend trip a lot easier rather than loading everything from bags 
into lockers and then unloading a couple days later.

Thanks,

Cam



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Am I on there?

Joe Della Barba


On 4/25/2020 1:47 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List wrote:


David,

I have been running a list of of C owners for a couple of years that 
started out as to their experience and how long they had their boat.  
It has expanded thru multiple sources to over 2300 C  For all the 
C 35 there are 375 boats and 196 C 35  Mk3s contained on the 
list.  I assume the below boat is what you bought.  Any further 
details would be appreciated. If you would like I can drop you the 
list of the C 35s, It is too big for the CnC forum.


Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI

Present Boat
Data Age 	Year 	Type 	Hull # 	Registration 	Name 	Former Name 	Sail # 
Berthed /

Home Port   Years own   Bought
US-20   1985C 35 Mk3  198
ZCC35198E585699203-x05  Anthem  Newport 



On 4/24/2020 6:47 PM, David Swensen via CnC-List wrote:
I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is 
evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all 
who participate.
I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of 
addressing the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are 
not stainless and I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get 
in to the boat yard for a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone 
had the dimensions of those plates so that I could have them 
manufactured ahead of time.

 If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.

Best,

David Swensen
 sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
1985 C 35 MK III

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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[Chris Bennett via CnC-List]

Russ - thanks for the west coast humour - yes we are lucky here to have our
boats in the water year round - though it does have its downsides too in
that the hulls never dry out and growth on the bottom continues even in the
winter.

The torques I applied to the 3/4 inch bolts were around 140 foot pounds.
After consulting some torque figures on this website, I looked up a
value for 3/4 inch stainless bolts on a fastener website that had been
recommended to me. I increased that value by about 10% to allow for the
extra weight of the keel. The 4th bolt under the mast step is too tight and
buried to get a torque wrench on so I tightened it with a beefy 1/2 inch
socket wrench as far as possible to a guesstimated 40-50 foot pounds.
Incidentally, 140 foot pounds was about as much as I could easily put on
the torque wrench without adding leverage of an extension handle or torque
converter.

Chris
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

David,

I have been running a list of of C owners for a couple of years that 
started out as to their experience and how long they had their boat.  It 
has expanded thru multiple sources to over 2300 C  For all the C 
35 there are 375 boats and 196 C 35  Mk3s contained on the list.  I 
assume the below boat is what you bought.  Any further details would be 
appreciated. If you would like I can drop you the list of the C 35s, 
It is too big for the CnC forum.


Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol, RI

Present Boat
Data Age 	Year 	Type 	Hull # 	Registration 	Name 	Former Name 	Sail # 
Berthed /

Home Port   Years own   Bought
US-20   1985C 35 Mk3  198
ZCC35198E585699203-x05  Anthem  Newport 



On 4/24/2020 6:47 PM, David Swensen via CnC-List wrote:
I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is 
evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all 
who participate.
I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of 
addressing the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are 
not stainless and I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get 
in to the boat yard for a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone 
had the dimensions of those plates so that I could have them 
manufactured ahead of time.

 If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.

Best,

David Swensen
 sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
1985 C 35 MK III

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Swensen.xlsx
Description: MS-Excel 2007 spreadsheet
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Stus-List C 38 mkII Pilot Berth Dimensions

[Cam Lubbock via CnC-List]

Hello all, 

I am brand new to the list and also to C Ownership. Looks like this will be a 
great resource! 

I am wondering if anyone knows the dimensions of the pilot berths on the 38 
mkII? I realize they are tapered, so just the max. and min. width and the 
length would be great. I am not able to access the boat at this time due to 
COVID closures, but I’m trying to figure out some storage solutions to make 
life easier for us while I’m stuck at home. 

I am thinking of buying some plastic storage totes that I can load up at home 
with food and supplies and just throw them up on one on the pilot berths to 
make a quick weekend trip a lot easier rather than loading everything from bags 
into lockers and then unloading a couple days later. 

Thanks,

Cam 



Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List keel bolts

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Keel:
My boatyard did something similar when we replaced the keel.  They prepped the 
joint surfaces with the intention of glassing the joint, ground a six inch 
bevel into the fiberglass stub, and the top edge of the lead keel.  They 
cleaned out all the bolt holes, buttered the keel joint, lowered the hull onto 
the keel and got it all lined up so it was centerline and in line vertically.  
Once it was all lined up, they filled the hole voids from inside with an 
epoxy/glass fibers mixture and then tightened all the nuts on the keel bolts.   
Then they wrapped the joint w two layers of 1708.  Fairing took the most time, 
painted the new fairing w interprotect, bottom paint, launch.  They advised me 
never to touch the keel bolt nuts as the epoxy and fiberglass was really 
holding it all together.  It's been tight for 12 years.  Work done by Down 
Jersey in Greenwich, NJ.

Chuck, Resolute, 1989 C 34R, Pasadena, Md



> On April 25, 2020 at 12:14 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Welcome to the list, David. Where are you/your boat located? Here's how I 
> did the smile repair on my boat:
> 
> Dropped the keel. Flushed out the keel bolt holes.  The forward bolt hole 
> (which was under the mast) had a void around it, and a terrible smell when it 
> was flushed out. The yard ground the surface of the keel and the stub, filled 
> the void with a gallon of epoxy (yes, a gallon), and epoxied the keel to the 
> stub. New washers were fabricated (large square stainless, tapered so that 
> the old washers and nuts would lay flat against the new washers). The old 
> washers were replaced with the newly fabricated washers, and then placed on 
> top of the new washers with the nuts torqued to spec. Finally the smile was 
> covered with fiberglass and epoxy. After more than ten years, the smile 
> hasn't returned, and I haven't had to torque the nuts again.
> 
> Some members of the list used a flexible seal instead of epoxy between 
> the stub and the  keel. I don't know how that worked for them. I'll be on my 
> boat this wee4k, and I'll try to take some pictures of the keel bolt washers.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty (1984)
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
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Re: Stus-List Hatch screens

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I got some mosquito screen from a camping store and cut two big squares 
out of it. I drape them over the hatches from the outside and use a 
piece of heavy dockline to hold them in place. I can easily open and 
close the hatches from inside for passing showers. I still have my wood 
framed inside screens that are a PITA to store and not totally bug proof 
either.


Joe

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Hatch screens

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

That is a thought--would be easier if the screen frame were not aluminum!  It 
appears that I will need to mount something to the roof and the screen--the 
question is what is the least obtrusive and least expensive as well as easiest 
to attach.
Thanks,
Charlie


-Original Message-
From: James Hesketh via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: James Hesketh 
Sent: Sat, Apr 25, 2020 11:29 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hatch screens



Charlie wrote:

I need some ideas from the list on holding small aluminum framed screens in 
place below the Lewmar #20 hatches in my C 36XL. The original Velcro was a 
PITA to use and kind of ‘clunky’ with the fabric screen and it’s sewn on Velcro.



Could you glue 4 small magnets under the hatch and 4 small corresponding pieces 
of steel (painted to protect against rusting) onto the screen frames? 

Jim HeskethC 26 WhisperMiami, FL
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Welcome to the list, David. Where are you/your boat located? Here's how I
did the smile repair on my boat:

Dropped the keel. Flushed out the keel bolt holes.  The forward bolt hole
(which was under the mast) had a void around it, and a terrible smell when
it was flushed out. The yard ground the surface of the keel and the stub,
filled the void with a gallon of epoxy (yes, a gallon), and epoxied the
keel to the stub. New washers were fabricated (large square stainless,
tapered so that the old washers and nuts would lay flat against the new
washers). The old washers were replaced with the newly fabricated washers,
and then placed on top of the new washers with the nuts torqued to spec.
Finally the smile was covered with fiberglass and epoxy. After more than
ten years, the smile hasn't returned, and I haven't had to torque the nuts
again.


Some members of the list used a flexible seal instead of epoxy between the
stub and the  keel. I don't know how that worked for them. I'll be on my
boat this wee4k, and I'll try to take some pictures of the keel bolt
washers.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty (1984)

Rose City YC

Portland, OR


On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 8:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Be warned -the 35 MK III has a failure mode more complicated to fix than
> adding new backing plates. A MK III owner can explain exactly what to look
> for, you will want to check for that too.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
>
> On 4/24/2020 6:47 PM, David Swensen via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is
> evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all
> who participate.
> I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of addressing
> the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are not stainless and
> I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get in to the boat yard for
> a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone had the dimensions of those
> plates so that I could have them manufactured ahead of time.
>  If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.
>
> Best,
>
> David Swensen
>  sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
> 1985 C 35 MK III
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4R7XAWcg8CC1XEn5QnHEOdwt2wM2CLE2OHpyUup9Bp3NOAAIYHEbqusUrc9PUjiclu0$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Be warned -the 35 MK III has a failure mode more complicated to fix than 
adding new backing plates. A MK III owner can explain exactly what to 
look for, you will want to check for that too.


Joe

Coquina C 35 MK I


On 4/24/2020 6:47 PM, David Swensen via CnC-List wrote:
I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is 
evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all 
who participate.
I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of 
addressing the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are 
not stainless and I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get 
in to the boat yard for a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone 
had the dimensions of those plates so that I could have them 
manufactured ahead of time.

 If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.

Best,

David Swensen
 sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
1985 C 35 MK III

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Re: Stus-List Hatch screens

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

Charlie wrote:

> I need some ideas from the list on holding small aluminum framed screens
> in place below the Lewmar #20 hatches in my C 36XL. The original Velcro
> was a PITA to use and kind of ‘clunky’ with the fabric screen and it’s sewn
> on Velcro.
>
>
>
Could you glue 4 small magnets under the hatch and 4 small corresponding
pieces of steel (painted to protect against rusting) onto the screen
frames?

Jim Hesketh
C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
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Stus-List Hatch screens

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I need some ideas from the list on holding small aluminum framed screens in 
place below the Lewmar #20 hatches in my C 36XL. The original Velcro was a 
PITA to use and kind of ‘clunky’ with the fabric screen and it’s sewn on Velcro.
Lewmar’s solution was about $120 per hatch and included an insert that needed 
trimmed and installed in order to have a frame to which their screens attached.
I went the DIY route, made 4 aluminum framed screens with plastic screen in an 
afternoon and spent about $30 total. I figure I can glue some Velcro or other 
soft bug stopping seal to the screen frame where it meets the ‘ceiling’ of the 
cabin although the mating surface is pretty ‘flat’.
Ideally I would use spring hinges to hold it in place and when I wanted to 
reach the hatch handle, I would pull the screen down against the spring while 
normally the spring tension would hold it up to the ceiling against gravity.
However, finding small spring hinges is not easy and cost ~ $10 each plus I am 
not sure, given the screen weight, if I might need more than one per screen.
Thus I am asking if anyone has come up with another practical solution that 
secures the screens, allows easy access to the hatch handle, looks decent and 
is inexpensive.
Hinges with a latch on non-hinge side, ‘slots’ into which the screen slides, 
etc. I’d like it to be simple, effective and look good while, of course, 
keeping the cost low!


Thanks,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C XL/kcb___

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Stus-List 35 MK III keel bolt plates

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

I am new to mail list, having recently bought a 1985 35 Mk III. It is
evident his list will be very helpful in the future. Thanks to all
who participate.
I am in the process (when we can get back to the boatyard) of addressing
the C Smile. The current keel bolt washers/ plates are not stainless and
I would like to replace them. Whereas I cannot get in to the boat yard for
a few more weeks, I wanted to see if anyone had the dimensions of those
plates so that I could have them manufactured ahead of time.
 If anyone has those dimensions to share, I would be very appreciative.

Best,

David Swensen
 sv Freya  (Formerly known as Anthem)
1985 C 35 MK III
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