Stus-List C&C 32 - toerail bolts

[Adam Johnson via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C&C 32
is moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can
finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both
sides, many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some
really need to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size,
min length etc and good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to
need 30-40 of them.

Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use
on new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced
some butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products
here.

Thanks!

Adam Johnson
'84 C&C 32
Melbourne, Australia
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Re: Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel?

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Ahoy!

Check out marine_parts_source on Ebay. They have all of the Blue Sea
circuit breakers. I just ordered some and they are $14.99 each.

Make sure you disconnect your batteries before serving. 👍☺

Regards from South FL,

Brian

On Fri, May 29, 2020, 1:06 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED:  Circuit
> Breaker Panel 2.jpg
> 
>
> Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg
>
> Shared with Dropbox
>
> 
>
> The bottom one is broken.
>
> I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>
> Does anyone know where I might find the right replacement?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List water pump seal

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Yes. I just rebuilt my water pump on a yanmar 3qm30h. It was not that hard
actually. I ordered a major rebuild kit off Ebay. Once you clean the
housing the new bearings will seem very snug going in, which is normal.
Take a large socket that fits the outside rim of the bearing and use a
hammer to tap it in. Don't kill it and ensure its aligned straight. It will
pop in place. I used a little packing grease in bith the bearings to help
seal it.

I've just rebuilt the yanmar and you can see it all on Instagram. My
account is nina1980cc

Good luck, and feel free to email or call me with any questions.

Regards,
Brian
brianwdavis...@gmail.com
954.892.1128

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 3:36 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any one have experience pressing in a new seal
> in the 3gm raw water pump.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gerry
> Fianna 1985 35 MK3
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the grounding
point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for the 3
battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several appliances
including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel
tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine
to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one of
the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
review.

Regards,
Brian
South FL
___

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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs 



Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking 
of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.


Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to 
be a routine conductor of electricity.


Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all 
metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected 
every single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The 
problem with that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have 
electrolysis on a large scale since you have all this metal wired 
together. I undid all that, no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The 
mast is wired to a keel bolt with 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is 
wired to the engine with one ground wire.



Joe Coquina

On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:

Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring 
from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece 
of wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage 
you can imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped 
everything out pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy 
to email direct to anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.


My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the 
grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative 
connection for the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine 
case. Several appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery 
charger, water heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 
6 awg green wire from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then 
connected the grounds to it.


I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to 
one of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. 
However I kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.


Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram 
for review.


Regards,
Brian
South FL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Thanks, Joe!

I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus
link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not
the engine then where?

Brian

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>
>
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>
> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of
> AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>
> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to be
> a routine conductor of electricity.
>
> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
> wire.
>
>
> Joe Coquina
> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>
> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
> scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
> bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
> She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
> in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
> wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>
> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
> it.
>
> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>
> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
> review.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> South FL
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List water pump seal

[Dave S via CnC-List]

If its really snug, heating the receiving part can help ease the assembly
of press-fit parts.  I've done this using my bbq, to warm alloy housings
etc, then press in the greased bushing or bearing.
Dave
-- Forwarded message --
From: Brian Davis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:18:20 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List water pump seal
Yes. I just rebuilt my water pump on a yanmar 3qm30h. It was not that hard
actually. I ordered a major rebuild kit off Ebay. Once you clean the
housing the new bearings will seem very snug going in, which is normal.
Take a large socket that fits the outside rim of the bearing and use a
hammer to tap it in. Don't kill it and ensure its aligned straight. It will
pop in place. I used a little packing grease in bith the bearings to help
seal it.

I've just rebuilt the yanmar and you can see it all on Instagram. My
account is nina1980cc

Good luck, and feel free to email or call me with any questions.

Regards,
Brian
brianwdavis...@gmail.com
954.892.1128

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 3:36 PM Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any one have experience pressing in a new seal
> in the 3gm raw water pump.
>
> Thanks
>
> Gerry
> Fianna 1985 35 MK3
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

You do run a wire to the engine, usually 2 gauge, but only one. Many 
boats ends up using the engine block as a ground bus with wires hooked 
up all over it.


Joe

On 5/30/2020 8:01 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks, Joe!

I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea 
bus link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect 
to? If not the engine then where?


Brian

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:


https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs


Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well.
Speaking of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.

Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine
block to be a routine conductor of electricity.

Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to
connect all metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system
that connected every single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine
and the keel. The problem with that is if the zinc does not work
perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a large scale since you
have all this metal wired together. I undid all that, no
thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt
with 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine
with one ground wire.


Joe Coquina

On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:

Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL
wiring from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted
every piece of wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables
in every guage you can imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly,
and I've mapped everything out pretty well in a 8 page layered
diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who wants it.
It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative
connection for the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the
engine case. Several appliances including the breaker panels,
ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel tank, etc require a
ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine to a
large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and
to one of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning
protection. However I kept that all separated and not connected
to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my
diagram for review.

Regards,
Brian
South FL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Gotcha.  I sent you my diagram. Just want to make sure I'm clear.  So the
Grounding bus and the Negative battery both connect to the same engine bolt?

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:10 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You do run a wire to the engine, usually 2 gauge, but only one. Many boats
> ends up using the engine block as a ground bus with wires hooked up all
> over it.
>
> Joe
> On 5/30/2020 8:01 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Thanks, Joe!
>
> I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus
> link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not
> the engine then where?
>
> Brian
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>
>>
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>
>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of
>> AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>
>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>
>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
>> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
>> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
>> wire.
>>
>>
>> Joe Coquina
>> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>
>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>
>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>> it.
>>
>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
>> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
>> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>
>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>> for review.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Brian
>> South FL
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Brian Davis
1980 C&C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not be
used as your primary grounding point.
there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one side of the shunt,
the other side of which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
other accessories that are measured by my battery/power consumption
monitor. This is the shunt that victron provides with the BMV-700.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg



Dave







-- Forwarded message --
From: Brian Davis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Grounding
Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the grounding
point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for the 3
battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several appliances
including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel
tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine
to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one of
the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
review.

Regards,
Brian
South FL



-- Forwarded message --
From: Joe Della Barba 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:52:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding

Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs

Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of
AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.

Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to be
a routine conductor of electricity.

Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
wire.


Joe Coquina
On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:

Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the grounding
point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for the 3
battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several appliances
including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel
tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine
to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one of
the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
review.

Regards,
Brian
South FL

___

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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the
list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Negative battery goes to the ground buss too.  ONE wire from the ground
buss to the engine.

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, May 30, 2020, 08:12 Brian Davis via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Gotcha.  I sent you my diagram. Just want to make sure I'm clear.  So the
> Grounding bus and the Negative battery both connect to the same engine bolt?
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:10 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You do run a wire to the engine, usually 2 gauge, but only one. Many
>> boats ends up using the engine block as a ground bus with wires hooked up
>> all over it.
>>
>> Joe
>> On 5/30/2020 8:01 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Joe!
>>
>> I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus
>> link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not
>> the engine then where?
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>>
>>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking
>>> of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>>
>>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>>
>>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>>> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
>>> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
>>> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
>>> wire.
>>>
>>>
>>> Joe Coquina
>>> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>>
>>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>>
>>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>>
>>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>>> it.
>>>
>>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
>>> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
>>> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>>
>>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>>> for review.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Brian
>>> South FL
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Brian Davis
> 1980 C&C Landfall 38
> "Nina"
> Southeast Florida
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this 

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Got it. Thank you to ALL!

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 8:52 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Negative battery goes to the ground buss too.  ONE wire from the ground
> buss to the engine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020, 08:12 Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gotcha.  I sent you my diagram. Just want to make sure I'm clear.  So the
>> Grounding bus and the Negative battery both connect to the same engine bolt?
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:10 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> You do run a wire to the engine, usually 2 gauge, but only one. Many
>>> boats ends up using the engine block as a ground bus with wires hooked up
>>> all over it.
>>>
>>> Joe
>>> On 5/30/2020 8:01 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, Joe!
>>>
>>> I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus
>>> link you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not
>>> the engine then where?
>>>
>>> Brian
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:


 https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs

 Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking
 of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.

 Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
 be a routine conductor of electricity.

 Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
 metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
 single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
 that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
 large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
 no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
 wire.


 Joe Coquina
 On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:

 Hello everyone,

 Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

 I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
 from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
 wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
 imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
 pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
 anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

 My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
 grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
 the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
 appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
 heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
 from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
 it.

 I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to
 one of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection.
 However I kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.

 Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
 for review.

 Regards,
 Brian
 South FL

 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Brian Davis
>> 1980 C&C Landfall 38
>> "Nina"
>> Southeast Florida
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting th

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Brian.  I would love a diagram too.   How was the wire extraction process.  It 
all come out?  And I am curious as to how you are running the new wires.  Seems 
very little room in my 1981s overhead for cabin lights
  Thanks

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 8:51:43 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding

Negative battery goes to the ground buss too.  ONE wire from the ground buss to 
the engine.

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sat, May 30, 2020, 08:12 Brian Davis via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Gotcha.  I sent you my diagram. Just want to make sure I'm clear.  So the 
Grounding bus and the Negative battery both connect to the same engine bolt?

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:10 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

You do run a wire to the engine, usually 2 gauge, but only one. Many boats ends 
up using the engine block as a ground bus with wires hooked up all over it.

Joe

On 5/30/2020 8:01 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
Thanks, Joe!

I did get a galvanic isolatot, but forgot to say that. The Blue Sea bus link 
you sent is exactly what i have. But what does that connect to? If not the 
engine then where?

Brian

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 7:53 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs

Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of AC, 
make sure you have a galvanic isolator.

Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to be a 
routine conductor of electricity.

Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all metal 
together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every single 
thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with that is if 
the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a large scale 
since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that, no thru-hulls 
are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with 4 gauge wire. The 
ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground wire.


Joe Coquina

On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from 
scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and 
bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.  
She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well in a 
8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who wants it. 
It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the grounding 
point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for the 3 battery 
banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several appliances including 
the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel tank, etc require 
a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine to a large Blue Sea 
busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one of the 
stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I kept that 
all separated and not connected to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for 
review.

Regards,
Brian
South FL



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



--
Brian Davis
1980 C&C Landfall 38
"Nina"
Southeast Florida
[https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LYklSNlB4cFM5UWs&revid=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LVUNlN1orQTlTc05OdzFHMXV6WFM2R281S1EwPQ]
__

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I
would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to
it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the
ground bus at the centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths
has to finally cross the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are
powered by the house bank)

 That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are
batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at
the same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is
the smartcharger, the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and
anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that
impacts the house bank, (though this does not include the alternator.)

Dave



On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis  wrote:

> Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea
> panels I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic
> there's a green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks
> (negative batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting
> point and the grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to
> make sure I completely "get it".
>
> Thanks for all your guys help.
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:
>
>> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not
>> be used as your primary grounding point.
>> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
>> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
>> need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
>> grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
>> right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
>> various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one side of the shunt,
>> the other side of which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
>> other accessories that are measured by my battery/power consumption
>> monitor. This is the shunt that victron provides with the BMV-700.
>>
>>
>> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Brian Davis 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List Grounding
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>
>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>
>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>> it.
>>
>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
>> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
>> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>
>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>> for review.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Brian
>> South FL
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Joe Della Barba 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:52:37 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>
>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>
>>
>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>
>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of
>> AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>
>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>
>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
>> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
>> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
>> wire.
>>
>>
>> Joe C

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Ok, thanks for the clarification.

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 9:18 AM Dave S  wrote:

> Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I
> would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to
> it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the
> ground bus at the centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths
> has to finally cross the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are
> powered by the house bank)
>
>  That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are
> batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at
> the same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is
> the smartcharger, the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and
> anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that
> impacts the house bank, (though this does not include the alternator.)
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea
>> panels I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic
>> there's a green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks
>> (negative batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting
>> point and the grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to
>> make sure I completely "get it".
>>
>> Thanks for all your guys help.
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:
>>
>>> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not
>>> be used as your primary grounding point.
>>> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
>>> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
>>> need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
>>> grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
>>> right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
>>> various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one side of the shunt,
>>> the other side of which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
>>> other accessories that are measured by my battery/power consumption
>>> monitor. This is the shunt that victron provides with the BMV-700.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Brian Davis 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc:
>>> Bcc:
>>> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
>>> Subject: Stus-List Grounding
>>> Hello everyone,
>>>
>>> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>>>
>>> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring
>>> from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of
>>> wire and bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
>>> imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out
>>> pretty well in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to
>>> anyone who wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>>>
>>> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
>>> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
>>> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
>>> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
>>> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
>>> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
>>> it.
>>>
>>> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
>>> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
>>> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>>>
>>> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram
>>> for review.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Brian
>>> South FL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Joe Della Barba 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc:
>>> Bcc:
>>> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:52:37 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>>
>>> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>>>
>>> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking
>>> of AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>>>
>>> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to
>>> be a routine conductor of electricity.
>>>
>>> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
>>> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
>>> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
>>> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
>>> large scale since you have all this met

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??

Neil Andersen
1982 C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
To: Brian Davis ; C&c Stus List 

Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding

Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I would 
think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to it, rather 
than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the ground bus at the 
centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths has to finally cross 
the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are powered by the house bank)

 That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are 
batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at the 
same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is the smartcharger, 
the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and anything else I want to 
"see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that impacts the house bank, 
(though this does not include the alternator.)

Dave



On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea panels 
I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic there's a 
green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks (negative 
batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting point and the 
grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to make sure I 
completely "get it".

Thanks for all your guys help.

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S 
mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not be used 
as your primary grounding point.
there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is 
providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may need 
to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various grounds you 
wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the right)  and ground bus 
(left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and various grounds attached, 
this bus is connected to one side of the shunt, the other side of which is 
connected to the house breaker panel and the other accessories that are 
measured by my battery/power consumption monitor. This is the shunt that 
victron provides with the BMV-700.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg


Dave







-- Forwarded message --
From: Brian Davis mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Grounding
Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from 
scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and 
bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.  
She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well in a 
8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who wants it. 
It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the grounding 
point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for the 3 battery 
banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several appliances including 
the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel tank, etc require 
a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine to a large Blue Sea 
busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one of the 
stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I kept that 
all separated and not connected to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for 
review.

Regards,
Brian
South FL



-- Forwarded message --
From: Joe Della Barba mailto:j...@dellabarba.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:52:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding

Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs

Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of AC, 
make sure you have a galvanic isolator.

Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to be a 
routine conductor of electricity.

Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all metal 
together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every single 
thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with that is if 
the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis o

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished
from the negative side of the dc circuit.
Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2
 The AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I
do not run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.
The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine, prop
and shaft.

Dave

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen 
wrote:

> Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??
>
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C&C 32
> Rock Hall, MD
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via
> CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
> *To:* Brian Davis ; C&c Stus List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>
> Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I
> would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to
> it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the
> ground bus at the centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths
> has to finally cross the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are
> powered by the house bank)
>
>  That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are
> batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at
> the same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is
> the smartcharger, the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and
> anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that
> impacts the house bank, (though this does not include the alternator.)
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea
> panels I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic
> there's a green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks
> (negative batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting
> point and the grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to
> make sure I completely "get it".
>
> Thanks for all your guys help.
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:
>
> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not be
> used as your primary grounding point.
> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
> need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
> grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
> right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
> various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one side of the shunt,
> the other side of which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
> other accessories that are measured by my battery/power consumption
> monitor. This is the shunt that victron provides with the BMV-700.
>
>
> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Brian Davis 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Grounding
> Hello everyone,
>
> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>
> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
> scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
> bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
> She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
> in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
> wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>
> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
> it.
>
> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>
> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
> review.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> South FL
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Joe Della Barba 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:52:37 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>
> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>
>
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>
> Your AC ground bus will connect to that grou

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore power (AC 
side and 12V side)?

Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: Dave S 
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
To: Neil Andersen 
Cc: Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding

Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished from 
the negative side of the dc circuit.
Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2  The 
AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I do not 
run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.
The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine, prop and 
shaft.

Dave

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen 
mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??

Neil Andersen
1982 C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
To: Brian Davis mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>>; 
C&c Stus List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding

Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I would 
think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to it, rather 
than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the ground bus at the 
centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths has to finally cross 
the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are powered by the house bank)

 That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are 
batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at the 
same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is the smartcharger, 
the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and anything else I want to 
"see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that impacts the house bank, 
(though this does not include the alternator.)

Dave



On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea panels 
I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic there's a 
green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks (negative 
batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting point and the 
grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to make sure I 
completely "get it".

Thanks for all your guys help.

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S 
mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not be used 
as your primary grounding point.
there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is 
providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may need 
to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various grounds you 
wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the right)  and ground bus 
(left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and various grounds attached, 
this bus is connected to one side of the shunt, the other side of which is 
connected to the house breaker panel and the other accessories that are 
measured by my battery/power consumption monitor. This is the shunt that 
victron provides with the BMV-700.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg


Dave







-- Forwarded message --
From: Brian Davis mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Grounding
Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from 
scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and 
bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.  
She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well in a 
8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who wants it. 
It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.

My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the grounding 
point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for the 3 battery 
banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several appliances including 
the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water heater, fuel tank, etc require 
a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire from the engine to a large Blue Sea 
busbar. Then connected the grounds to it.

I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one of the 
stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I kept that 
all separated and not connected to the grounding.

Make sense? Or am I missing someth

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Yes - that can be quite dangerous. My AC ground bus ties to the ship's 
ground bus, which ties to the engine, and thus the water. Not doing so 
can kill swimmers.


Joe

On 5/30/2020 9:56 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List wrote:
Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore 
power (AC side and 12V side)?


Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661

*From:* Dave S 
*Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
*To:* Neil Andersen 
*Cc:* Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 


*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be 
distinguished from the negative side of the dc circuit.
Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 
33-2  The AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore 
power.  I do not run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.
The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine, 
prop and shaft.


Dave

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen 
mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>> 
wrote:


Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??

Neil Andersen
1982 C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD

*From:* CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf of Dave S via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
*To:* Brian Davis mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>>; C&c Stus List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's
wiring, I would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the
engine connected to it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a
hub or a star - with the ground bus at the centre.  (Google "star
grounding")  one of those paths has to finally cross the shunt to
be measured.   (those loads which are powered by the house bank)

 That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The
rest are batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the
shunt.   All are at the same ground potential.   On the other side
of the shunt is the smartcharger, the refrigeration unit, the
house breaker panel, and anything else I want to "see" in the BMV
700.    Basically anything that impacts the house bank, (though
this does not include the alternator.)

Dave



On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis
mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with
the Blue Sea panels I'm installing and will have the same
monitoring.  I see in you pic there's a green wire
(grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks (negative
batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine
connecting point and the grounds and negatives share that
single point?  Just want to make sure I completely "get it".

Thanks for all your guys help.

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Agree with Joe's comment.    the engine must be grounded
but should not be used as your primary grounding point.
there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing
to consider is providing for an upgrade the battery/power
monitoring, for which you may need to install a resistive
shunt between the battery and the various grounds you wish
to monitor,     Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the
ground bus and various grounds attached, this bus is
connected to one side of the shunt, the other side of
which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
other accessories that are measured by my battery/power
consumption monitor. This is the shunt that victron
provides with the BMV-700.


https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg



Dave






-- Forwarded message --
From: Brian Davis mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Grounding
Hello everyone,

Hope you quarantine projects are going well.

I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting
ALL wiring from scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I
literally gutted every piece of wire and bought all new
Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can
imagine.  She's coming along swimmingly, 

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Feels like a leading (but good) question, lol - and I’d expect the
‘grounds’ could be at different potentials and that this delta would vary
based on the ground at different marinas.
You’ve made me curious, will measure the ground-to-ground voltage today.
Not sure of the practical negative (if any) implications of the AC ground
being at a slightly different potential than the isolated -12vdc ‘ground’?
  I can see that a poor -12vdc ‘ground’ could impact noise suppression in
cable shielding or similar but otherwise Is there an issue?  I’m Not a
grounding/bonding expert by any means!
Dave


On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:56 AM Neil Andersen 
wrote:

> Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore
> power (AC side and 12V side)?
>
> Neil Andersen
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> --
> *From:* Dave S 
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
> *To:* Neil Andersen 
> *Cc:* Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>
> Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished
> from the negative side of the dc circuit.
> Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2
>  The AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I
> do not run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.
> The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine, prop
> and shaft.
>
> Dave
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen <
> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??
>
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C&C 32
> Rock Hall, MD
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via
> CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
> *To:* Brian Davis ; C&c Stus List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>
> Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I
> would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to
> it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the
> ground bus at the centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths
> has to finally cross the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are
> powered by the house bank)
>
>  That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are
> batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at
> the same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is
> the smartcharger, the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and
> anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that
> impacts the house bank, (though this does not include the alternator.)
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea
> panels I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic
> there's a green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks
> (negative batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting
> point and the grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to
> make sure I completely "get it".
>
> Thanks for all your guys help.
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:
>
> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not be
> used as your primary grounding point.
> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
> need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
> grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
> right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
> various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one side of the shunt,
> the other side of which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
> other accessories that are measured by my battery/power consumption
> monitor. This is the shunt that victron provides with the BMV-700.
>
>
> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Brian Davis 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Grounding
> Hello everyone,
>
> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>
> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
> scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
> bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
> She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
> in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
> wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>
> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
> grounding point? I'm u

Stus-List C&C 32 - toerail bolts

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Adam:

I don't know the size of your toe rail bolts...I have never fully 
removed one but I have tightened some slightly, careful not to over 
tighten and squeeze out the butyl.   It is a two (2) person job done 
properlyone person on deck holding the bolt in place with the screw 
driver, the other person below tightening the nut with a wrench.  You 
don't want to turn the bolt as it might loosen the sealant.  Unless 
someone here knows the size, you will have to remove one to measure and 
source new ones.


Your choice of sealant is probably best using butyl .

Each season, I squeeze a line of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Sealer 
along the inner deck side of the toe rail, usually two lines along the 
lower deck where the water will pool.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
Canada



On 5/30/2020 5:57 AM, Adam Johnson via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me 
C&C 32 is moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring 
jobs when I can finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships 
to stern on both sides, many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt 
tightening however some really need to be replaced. Anyone know the 
type of bolt used i.e. size, min length etc and good online source 
to order from? Assume I'm going to need 30-40 of them.


Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to 
use on new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I 
have sourced some butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have 
access to sika products here.


Thanks!

Adam Johnson
'84 C&C 32
Melbourne, Australia

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,Josh, or Edd, this might be a perfect question for you folks.  Where 
is the star ground and the shunt located on our C&C 37/40+ boats?  This is a 
perfect discussion, as I was having grounding issues of my own and the shunt 
and star ground cannot be found behind the circuit breaker panel, nor are they 
at the batteries, and I don't think I've seen them in the engine 
compartment...Thanks!Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Dave S via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/30/20  10:33 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: Neil Andersen 
 Cc: Dave S , 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding Feels like a leading 
(but good) question, lol - and I’d expect the ‘grounds’ could be at different 
potentials and that this delta would vary based on the ground at different 
marinas. You’ve made me curious, will measure the ground-to-ground voltage 
today.Not sure of the practical negative (if any) implications of the AC ground 
being at a slightly different potential than the isolated -12vdc ‘ground’?   I 
can see that a poor -12vdc ‘ground’ could impact noise suppression in cable 
shielding or similar but otherwise Is there an issue?  I’m Not a 
grounding/bonding expert by any means!Dave On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:56 AM Neil 
Andersen  wrote:








Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore power (AC 
side and 12V side)?




Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661




From: Dave S 
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
To: Neil Andersen 
Cc: Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
 



Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished from 
the negative side of the dc circuit. 
Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2  The 
AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I do not 
run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.

The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine, prop and 
shaft.   


Dave 


On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen  
wrote:







Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??




Neil Andersen
1982 C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD




From: CnC-List  on behalf
 of Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
To: Brian Davis ; C&c Stus List 

Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
 


Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I would 
think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to it, rather 
than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the ground bus at the 
centre. 
  (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths has to finally cross the shunt 
to be measured.   (those loads which are powered by the house bank)


 That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are 
batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at the 
same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is the smartcharger, 
the refrigeration unit, the
 house breaker panel, and anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.    
Basically anything that impacts the house bank, (though this does not include 
the alternator.)      


Dave







On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis  wrote:


Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea panels 
I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic there's a 
green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks (negative 
batteries). 
 So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting point and the grounds and 
negatives share that single point?  Just want to make sure I completely "get 
it". 


Thanks for all your guys help.



On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:







Agree with Joe's comment.    the engine must be grounded but should not be used 
as your primary grounding point.   

there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is 
providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may need 
to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various grounds you 
wish to monitor,     Here's a
 photo of the shunt (on the right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can 
see the ground bus and various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one 
side of the shunt, the other side of which is connected to the house breaker 
panel and the other accessories
 that are measured by my battery/power consumption monitor. This is the shunt 
that victron provides with the BMV-700.    




https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
  








Dave







   













-- Forwarded message --
From: Brian Davis 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Grounding
Hello everyone, 


Hope you quarantine projects are going well.


I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiri

Re: Stus-List C&C 32 - toerail bolts

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Adam,

I’m 99.999% certain that you will find that your toenail is bolted down using 
1/4-20 Phillips Oval Head (machine) screws. Length dependent on your hull/deck 
joint. IN the U.S. I buy them in bulk from McMaster-Carr. Much cheaper that 
way. When I was in Melbourne last I didn’t run across any hardware stores so 
dunno…. ;-)

I suspect that as I found, 80/85% of all fasteners that I removed from my 
topsides were that size bolt.

I’m on my way to my boat to continue working on installing new lifeline 
stanchions and will measure just to be absolutely sure.

Stay tuned.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 30, 2020, at 4:57 AM, Adam Johnson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C&C 32 
> is moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can 
> finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both 
> sides, many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some 
> really need to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size, min 
> length etc and good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to need 
> 30-40 of them. 
> 
> Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use on 
> new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced some 
> butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products here.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Adam Johnson
> '84 C&C 32 
> Melbourne, Australia
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Ground 37/40

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Bruce, I doubt you will see two grounded the same but my shunt is as high as 
possible in the bilge at the bottom of the companionway steps beside the engine 
intake thru hull. You may just have to follow your wires. Crazy Legs is a 1989 
and has an original link battery monitor with a charger inverter and a load 
share contactor. I would like to modernize my wiring but I am reluctant to 
change anything that works so well. Len

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I rebuilt the carburetor of my Suzuki 2.5 engine last winter and it seemed fine 
for a few runs and then quit completely the other day and won’t start.  I have 
read stories of people cleaning the carburetor 5-6 times before they got these 
working again when there are problems.  I probably should have put in a fuel 
filter as some posters recommend, but did not.  Anyway, I am considering 
replacing the carburetor, buying a new engine or both.  It is a long row, and 
while good exercise, I would not want to do it against wind and tide.  Although 
cheap and plastic, the Suzuki is the lightest on the market (30 lb) and while I 
have had some problems, it has lasted nearly 10 years and been pretty reliable. 
 Arguing for fixing or replacing with same is that I now know the engine really 
well, so can probably keep the next one in better shape for longer. What 
trashed this one was a water pump issue I did not notice that overheated the 
engine and probably warped the cylinder 5 years ago.
 
The only engine close in terms of weight are the Honda and the Yamaha.  The 
Honda is really noisy and really got trashed in reviews as not reliable.  Some 
people hate the centrifugal clutch as well.  I can find nothing about the 
Yamaha in terms of people’s experience with it and it is hard to find for sale. 
 It is about 6 pounds heavier than the Suzuki, but at least it is not 10-12 
pounds heavier as most (Tohatsu, etc.) are.
Then I came across a bunch of small engines on Amazon that I assume are Chinese 
imports.  They are only about 20 pounds (vs. 30 for the Suzuki) and less than 
half the price.  I have never seen one on a boat in my area.
Any advice from the group?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[David Castor via CnC-List]

If you Google “Stan Honey marine grounding systems” you’ll find links to a
couple of versions of a well developed paper on grounding. I’m not an
expert but as a EE I didn’t find anything in it that I disagreed with. I
consider it basically definitive at this point.

Just FYI

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 7:42 AM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Josh, or Edd, this might be a perfect question for you folks.  Where is
> the star ground and the shunt located on our C&C 37/40+ boats?
>
> This is a perfect discussion, as I was having grounding issues of my own
> and the shunt and star ground cannot be found behind the circuit breaker
> panel, nor are they at the batteries, and I don't think I've seen them in
> the engine compartment...
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C37/40+
> "Astralis"
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
> Date: 5/30/20 10:33 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: Neil Andersen 
> Cc: Dave S , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>
> Feels like a leading (but good) question, lol - and I’d expect the
> ‘grounds’ could be at different potentials and that this delta would vary
> based on the ground at different marinas.
> You’ve made me curious, will measure the ground-to-ground voltage today.
> Not sure of the practical negative (if any) implications of the AC ground
> being at a slightly different potential than the isolated -12vdc ‘ground’?
>   I can see that a poor -12vdc ‘ground’ could impact noise suppression in
> cable shielding or similar but otherwise Is there an issue?  I’m Not a
> grounding/bonding expert by any means!
> Dave
>
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:56 AM Neil Andersen <
> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore
>> power (AC side and 12V side)?
>>
>> Neil Andersen
>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>> --
>> *From:* Dave S 
>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
>> *To:* Neil Andersen 
>> *Cc:* Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>
>> Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished
>> from the negative side of the dc circuit.
>> Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2
>>  The AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I
>> do not run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.
>> The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine,
>> prop and shaft.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen <
>> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??
>>
>> Neil Andersen
>> 1982 C&C 32
>> Rock Hall, MD
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S via
>> CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
>> *To:* Brian Davis ; C&c Stus List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Dave S 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>
>> Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I
>> would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to
>> it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the
>> ground bus at the centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths
>> has to finally cross the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are
>> powered by the house bank)
>>
>>  That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are
>> batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at
>> the same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is
>> the smartcharger, the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and
>> anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that
>> impacts the house bank, (though this does not include the alternator.)
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea
>> panels I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic
>> there's a green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks
>> (negative batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting
>> point and the grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to
>> make sure I completely "get it".
>>
>> Thanks for all your guys help.
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:
>>
>> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not
>> be used as your primary grounding point.
>> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
>> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
>> need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
>> grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
>> right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
>> 

Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Those small EPA approved carbs are about impossible to clean. I would 
suggest getting a new carb and if you don't use a ton of dinghy gas, buy 
ethanol free gas from somewhere. I fill a gas can with 100 octane from 
the airport for my lawnmower and have no issues at all with it :)


Failing that, put SeaFoam in the gas.

I would NOT get a Chinese knockoff engine. Craigslist will sooner or 
later come up with a little 2 or 3 HP two-stroke you can pick up with 2 
fingers.


Joe

Coquina

On 5/30/2020 12:20 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I rebuilt the carburetor of my Suzuki 2.5 engine last winter and it 
seemed fine for a few runs and then quit completely the other day and 
won’t start.  I have read stories of people cleaning the carburetor 
5-6 times before they got these working again when there are problems. 
 I probably should have put in a fuel filter as some posters 
recommend, but did not.  Anyway, I am considering replacing the 
carburetor, buying a new engine or both.  It is a long row, and while 
good exercise, I would not want to do it against wind and tide. 
 Although cheap and plastic, the Suzuki is the lightest on the market 
(30 lb) and while I have had some problems, it has lasted nearly 10 
years and been pretty reliable.  Arguing for fixing or replacing with 
same is that I now know the engine really well, so can probably keep 
the next one in better shape for longer. What trashed this one was a 
water pump issue I did not notice that overheated the engine and 
probably warped the cylinder 5 years ago.
The only engine close in terms of weight are the Honda and the Yamaha. 
 The Honda is really noisy and really got trashed in reviews as not 
reliable.  Some people hate the centrifugal clutch as well.  I can 
find nothing about the Yamaha in terms of people’s experience with it 
and it is hard to find for sale.  It is about 6 pounds heavier than 
the Suzuki, but at least it is not 10-12 pounds heavier as most 
(Tohatsu, etc.) are.
Then I came across a bunch of small engines on Amazon that I assume 
are Chinese imports.  They are only about 20 pounds (vs. 30 for the 
Suzuki) and less than half the price.  I have never seen one on a boat 
in my area.

Any advice from the group?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Before doing anything else, try using engine starting fluid. I had
difficulty starting my lawn mower after it sat for nine months. It started
right up, and has worked fine ever since.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:21 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I rebuilt the carburetor of my Suzuki 2.5 engine last winter and it seemed
> fine for a few runs and then quit completely the other day and won’t
> start.  I have read stories of people cleaning the carburetor 5-6 times
> before they got these working again when there are problems.  I probably
> should have put in a fuel filter as some posters recommend, but did not.
> Anyway, I am considering replacing the carburetor, buying a new engine or
> both.  It is a long row, and while good exercise, I would not want to do it
> against wind and tide.  Although cheap and plastic, the Suzuki is the
> lightest on the market (30 lb) and while I have had some problems, it has
> lasted nearly 10 years and been pretty reliable.  Arguing for fixing or
> replacing with same is that I now know the engine really well, so can
> probably keep the next one in better shape for longer. What trashed this
> one was a water pump issue I did not notice that overheated the engine and
> probably warped the cylinder 5 years ago.
>
> The only engine close in terms of weight are the Honda and the Yamaha.
> The Honda is really noisy and really got trashed in reviews as not
> reliable.  Some people hate the centrifugal clutch as well.  I can find
> nothing about the Yamaha in terms of people’s experience with it and it is
> hard to find for sale.  It is about 6 pounds heavier than the Suzuki, but
> at least it is not 10-12 pounds heavier as most (Tohatsu, etc.) are.
> Then I came across a bunch of small engines on Amazon that I assume are
> Chinese imports.  They are only about 20 pounds (vs. 30 for the Suzuki) and
> less than half the price.  I have never seen one on a boat in my area.
> Any advice from the group?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!7tOc63IVlQl7CHlPHVptlrbhRMUkVW58u2NJN4rHXwLf_s18D8NkPt3cUC-Gz5pLTi0$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

Awesome! Thank you!

On Sat, May 30, 2020, 12:36 PM David Castor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you Google “Stan Honey marine grounding systems” you’ll find links to a
> couple of versions of a well developed paper on grounding. I’m not an
> expert but as a EE I didn’t find anything in it that I disagreed with. I
> consider it basically definitive at this point.
>
> Just FYI
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 7:42 AM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Josh, or Edd, this might be a perfect question for you folks.  Where is
>> the star ground and the shunt located on our C&C 37/40+ boats?
>>
>> This is a perfect discussion, as I was having grounding issues of my own
>> and the shunt and star ground cannot be found behind the circuit breaker
>> panel, nor are they at the batteries, and I don't think I've seen them in
>> the engine compartment...
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C&C37/40+
>> "Astralis"
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
>> Date: 5/30/20 10:33 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: Neil Andersen 
>> Cc: Dave S , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>
>> Feels like a leading (but good) question, lol - and I’d expect the
>> ‘grounds’ could be at different potentials and that this delta would vary
>> based on the ground at different marinas.
>> You’ve made me curious, will measure the ground-to-ground voltage today.
>> Not sure of the practical negative (if any) implications of the AC ground
>> being at a slightly different potential than the isolated -12vdc ‘ground’?
>>   I can see that a poor -12vdc ‘ground’ could impact noise suppression in
>> cable shielding or similar but otherwise Is there an issue?  I’m Not a
>> grounding/bonding expert by any means!
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:56 AM Neil Andersen <
>> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore
>>> power (AC side and 12V side)?
>>>
>>> Neil Andersen
>>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>> --
>>> *From:* Dave S 
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
>>> *To:* Neil Andersen 
>>> *Cc:* Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>>
>>> Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished
>>> from the negative side of the dc circuit.
>>> Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2
>>>  The AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I
>>> do not run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.
>>> The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine,
>>> prop and shaft.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen <
>>> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??
>>>
>>> Neil Andersen
>>> 1982 C&C 32
>>> Rock Hall, MD
>>> --
>>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S
>>> via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
>>> *To:* Brian Davis ; C&c Stus List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> *Cc:* Dave S 
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>>
>>> Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I
>>> would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to
>>> it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a star - with the
>>> ground bus at the centre.   (Google "star grounding")  one of those paths
>>> has to finally cross the shunt to be measured.   (those loads which are
>>> powered by the house bank)
>>>
>>>  That green wire is the ground for the aluminum fuel tank.  The rest are
>>> batteries (house 1,2, and start) or engine, plus the shunt.   All are at
>>> the same ground potential.   On the other side of the shunt is
>>> the smartcharger, the refrigeration unit, the house breaker panel, and
>>> anything else I want to "see" in the BMV 700.Basically anything that
>>> impacts the house bank, (though this does not include the alternator.)
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, 30 May 2020 at 08:43, Brian Davis 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks, Dave.  I have the same type of shunt that came with the Blue Sea
>>> panels I'm installing and will have the same monitoring.  I see in you pic
>>> there's a green wire (grounding?) going to the bus along with the blacks
>>> (negative batteries).  So, all of that goes to the same engine connecting
>>> point and the grounds and negatives share that single point?  Just want to
>>> make sure I completely "get it".
>>>
>>> Thanks for all your guys help.
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 8:21 AM Dave S  wrote:
>>>
>>> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not
>>> be used as your primary grounding point.
>>> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
>>> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitori

Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I'm curious why the engine shouldn't be used as the grounding point? Mine
isn't, but only because I wanted a central ground bus in the electrical
space.

In the rewire of our 35-2 that I just did, I built a ground busbar from
5/16" aluminum, installed two 5/16" main ground bolts, and 4 smaller ground
screws, and installed this on one side of the electrical compartment above
the engine. On the other side is a BlueSea positive busbar, fed by a
BlueSea A-B battery switch. The ground bus is connected to my 100A current
shunt for the battery meter with a 1/4" aluminum bar. All house loads are
grounded to the busbar before the shunt. The batteries, windlass and engine
starter motor are grounded after the shunt. The windlass and stern zinc
anode (hung off transom) are grounded to the starboard engine mount (cable
not long enough), and there is a 2/0 cable from the engine to the battery
and starter grounding point at the shunt.

Also, I have BlueSea on/off switch for the engine power (fed from the A/B
swtich), as I don't like having my alternator and starter cables live all
the time. Very easy to drop something that could short these terminals.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 5:22 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Agree with Joe's comment.the engine must be grounded but should not be
> used as your primary grounding point.
> there are a buncha' good reasons for this.  Another thing to consider is
> providing for an upgrade the battery/power monitoring, for which you may
> need to install a resistive shunt between the battery and the various
> grounds you wish to monitor, Here's a photo of the shunt (on the
> right)  and ground bus (left)  in my 33-2, you can see the ground bus and
> various grounds attached, this bus is connected to one side of the shunt,
> the other side of which is connected to the house breaker panel and the
> other accessories that are measured by my battery/power consumption
> monitor. This is the shunt that victron provides with the BMV-700.
>
>
> https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LeNHHo5kK2k/V5V0MaFJ_cI/Akc/VI_Cm3z-Aa0m_dZ9AmlgaeVdXmXQOINkgCLcB/s1600/blog%2Bgrounding%2B2.jpg
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Brian Davis 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:32:16 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Grounding
> Hello everyone,
>
> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>
> I have a question about grounding. I'm currently refitting ALL wiring from
> scratch on our 1980 Landfall 38. I literally gutted every piece of wire and
> bought all new Ancor tinned marine cables in every guage you can imagine.
> She's coming along swimmingly, and I've mapped everything out pretty well
> in a 8 page layered diagram that I'm happy to email direct to anyone who
> wants it. It's in PowerPoint and about 8mg.
>
> My question about Grounding is if it's ok to use my engine as the
> grounding point? I'm using the similar area for the Negative connection for
> the 3 battery banks, but a different bolt to the engine case. Several
> appliances including the breaker panels, ACR, battery charger, water
> heater, fuel tank, etc require a ground and I'm using a 6 awg green wire
> from the engine to a large Blue Sea busbar. Then connected the grounds to
> it.
>
> I've also run a 2awg wire from the mast step to the keel bolt and to one
> of the stanchion bases from underneath for lightning protection. However I
> kept that all separated and not connected to the grounding.
>
> Make sense? Or am I missing something? Again, happy to send my diagram for
> review.
>
> Regards,
> Brian
> South FL
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Joe Della Barba 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 07:52:37 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>
> Don't use the engine for ship's ground. Use one of these:
>
>
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2127/MaxiBus_250A_BusBar_-_Four_5_16in-18_Studs
>
> Your AC ground bus will connect to that ground point as well. Speaking of
> AC, make sure you have a galvanic isolator.
>
> Run ONE ground wire to the engine.  You don't want your engine block to be
> a routine conductor of electricity.
>
> Here is your lightning ground conundrum: The old way was to connect all
> metal together. Coquina came with a ground wire system that connected every
> single thru-hull, the mast step, the engine and the keel. The problem with
> that is if the zinc does not work perfectly, you can have electrolysis on a
> large scale since you have all this metal wired together. I undid all that,
> no thru-hulls are wired to anything. The mast is wired to a keel bolt with
> 4 gauge wire. The ship's ground bus is wired to the engine with one ground
> wire.
>
>
> Joe Coquina
> On 5/30/2020 7:32 AM, Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> Hope you quarantine projects are going well.
>
> I have a questio

Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

 I have an old Johnson 3.3 ( 1995 made in Japan ) and the only issue I've had 
with it was the main jet getting clogged ( very small jet, blocks easily ), 
Once I started puttinf Fule stabilizer in the gaz the problem went away ( took 
as little à 3-4 weeks without use to get clogged ).
An easy test to know if it is the fuel supply, you can make sure the plug is 
clean, then squirt about half a teaspoon of mixed gas  in the engine, if it 
starts and run for a few seconds then investigate the fuel supply.
I used same test for my A4 a few times ( pour a little gas through 2 or 3 of 
the spark plus holes, plugs back and start it.
Sylvain C&C27MkIII

Le samedi 30 mai 2020 12 h 21 min 40 s HAE, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 a écrit :  
 
 I rebuilt the carburetor of my Suzuki 2.5 engine last winter and it seemed 
fine for a few runs and then quit completely the other day and won’t start.  I 
have read stories of people cleaning the carburetor 5-6 times before they got 
these working again when there are problems.  I probably should have put in a 
fuel filter as some posters recommend, but did not.  Anyway, I am considering 
replacing the carburetor, buying a new engine or both.  It is a long row, and 
while good exercise, I would not want to do it against wind and tide.  Although 
cheap and plastic, the Suzuki is the lightest on the market (30 lb) and while I 
have had some problems, it has lasted nearly 10 years and been pretty reliable. 
 Arguing for fixing or replacing with same is that I now know the engine really 
well, so can probably keep the next one in better shape for longer. What 
trashed this one was a water pump issue I did not notice that overheated the 
engine and probably warped the cylinder 5 years ago. The only engine close in 
terms of weight are the Honda and the Yamaha.  The Honda is really noisy and 
really got trashed in reviews as not reliable.  Some people hate the 
centrifugal clutch as well.  I can find nothing about the Yamaha in terms of 
people’s experience with it and it is hard to find for sale.  It is about 6 
pounds heavier than the Suzuki, but at least it is not 10-12 pounds heavier as 
most (Tohatsu, etc.) are.Then I came across a bunch of small engines on Amazon 
that I assume are Chinese imports.  They are only about 20 pounds (vs. 30 for 
the Suzuki) and less than half the price.  I have never seen one on a boat in 
my area.Any advice from the group?  Thanks- Dave
S/V Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT

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Re: Stus-List Grounding

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks for the link to Stan's grounding article. I have read it before, but
it was useful to do so again, as it highlighted a few things I will need to
check (and which my surveyor missed):

1. I believe my galvanic isolator is (and was) wired incorrectly. The shore
power ground goes to circuit panel ground, then through isolator to the
boat's ground bus. Stan's article indicates the shorepower ground should go
to the isolator first, then on to the breakers, then to boat ground.

2. My fuel tank (and fill cap) are grounded, but not bonded to the
keel/mast lightning ground. (I am assuming that the aluminum mast step with
keel bolt under the mast serves to bond the mast & keel). The surveyor
specifically asked about grounding of the fuel tank and filler, but made no
mention of lightning grounds. I am not certain if it is possible to achieve
the strict isolation of the fuel tank from DC ground and still have a
working fuel gauge; that would require a sender with a separate ground,
which mine does not have.

I think I am ok with everything else, except perhaps the lack of a zinc
anode on my prop-shaft strut; if the cutlass bearing isolates it from the
shaft, then it may not be (although the mounting bolts are SS). At one
time, there were bonding wires on each of the bolts inside the hull, but
those had been cut when I bought the boat. I plan to pull the strut in the
fall, as one of the bolts is weeping slightly.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:36 AM David Castor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you Google “Stan Honey marine grounding systems” you’ll find links to a
> couple of versions of a well developed paper on grounding. I’m not an
> expert but as a EE I didn’t find anything in it that I disagreed with. I
> consider it basically definitive at this point.
>
> Just FYI
>
> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 7:42 AM bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> Josh, or Edd, this might be a perfect question for you folks.  Where is
>> the star ground and the shunt located on our C&C 37/40+ boats?
>>
>> This is a perfect discussion, as I was having grounding issues of my own
>> and the shunt and star ground cannot be found behind the circuit breaker
>> panel, nor are they at the batteries, and I don't think I've seen them in
>> the engine compartment...
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 1994 C&C37/40+
>> "Astralis"
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>>
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
>> Date: 5/30/20 10:33 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: Neil Andersen 
>> Cc: Dave S , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>
>> Feels like a leading (but good) question, lol - and I’d expect the
>> ‘grounds’ could be at different potentials and that this delta would vary
>> based on the ground at different marinas.
>> You’ve made me curious, will measure the ground-to-ground voltage today.
>> Not sure of the practical negative (if any) implications of the AC ground
>> being at a slightly different potential than the isolated -12vdc ‘ground’?
>>   I can see that a poor -12vdc ‘ground’ could impact noise suppression in
>> cable shielding or similar but otherwise Is there an issue?  I’m Not a
>> grounding/bonding expert by any means!
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:56 AM Neil Andersen <
>> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Does that set up a different ground potential when connected to shore
>>> power (AC side and 12V side)?
>>>
>>> Neil Andersen
>>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>>> --
>>> *From:* Dave S 
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:41:36 AM
>>> *To:* Neil Andersen 
>>> *Cc:* Brian Davis ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>>
>>> Interesting question. The term ‘ground’ probably should be distinguished
>>> from the negative side of the dc circuit.
>>> Can’t speak to more sophisticated boats but in my relatively simple 33-2
>>>  The AC system is isolated, grounded only when connected to shore power.  I
>>> do not run any AC loads otherwise, no inverter.
>>> The 12v system would ultimately ‘ground’ To the water via the engine,
>>> prop and shaft.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 9:33 AM Neil Andersen <
>>> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Where do you actually go to “ground” off the bus??
>>>
>>> Neil Andersen
>>> 1982 C&C 32
>>> Rock Hall, MD
>>> --
>>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dave S
>>> via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 30, 2020 9:18:24 AM
>>> *To:* Brian Davis ; C&c Stus List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>> *Cc:* Dave S 
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Grounding
>>>
>>> Essentially yes, however when you are thinking of the boat's wiring, I
>>> would think of the ground bus as the centre, with the engine connected to
>>> it, rather than the reverse.   Think of it a hub or a st

Re: Stus-List C&C 32 - toerail bolts

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Adam,

Confirmed. Toe-rail bolts for a 1982 C&C 37’ are 1/4”-20.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 30, 2020, at 10:58 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Adam,
> 
> I’m 99.999% certain that you will find that your toenail is bolted down using 
> 1/4-20 Phillips Oval Head (machine) screws. Length dependent on your 
> hull/deck joint. IN the U.S. I buy them in bulk from McMaster-Carr. Much 
> cheaper that way. When I was in Melbourne last I didn’t run across any 
> hardware stores so dunno…. ;-)
> 
> I suspect that as I found, 80/85% of all fasteners that I removed from my 
> topsides were that size bolt.
> 
> I’m on my way to my boat to continue working on installing new lifeline 
> stanchions and will measure just to be absolutely sure.
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> 
>> On May 30, 2020, at 4:57 AM, Adam Johnson via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all, 
>> 
>> I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C&C 32 
>> is moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can 
>> finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both 
>> sides, many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some 
>> really need to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size, min 
>> length etc and good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to need 
>> 30-40 of them. 
>> 
>> Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use on 
>> new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced 
>> some butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products 
>> here.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Adam Johnson
>> '84 C&C 32 
>> Melbourne, Australia
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

I removed and cleaned the carb on our mercury 2.5 / 4 stroke. It runs and idles 
fine but will only rev about half way. I bought a rebuild kit and installed. 
Same. Ordered new carb. 
I think all the small engines are Chinese. And a lot are the same except 
badging and plastic. Like Home Depot lawn tractors. 
Jon

> 

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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British
Seagull.

The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

 Humm...  :-)
>From their website ( "its time" actually is 1931 ) :
For its time the original engine was very advanced, a good proportion of the 
original engines are still running and parts are generally still available to 
keep them that way - a truly unique engine, a magnificent piece of British 
engineering and ingenuity.
Sylvain ( with an A4  :-)  )

Le samedi 30 mai 2020 19 h 05 min 25 s HAE, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
 a écrit :  
 
 

I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British 
Seagull. 

The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???
Jim HeskethC&C 26 WhisperMiami, FL


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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

WAY too much!

Joe

Coquina

On 5/30/2020 7:04 PM, James Hesketh via CnC-List wrote:



I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft 
British Seagull.


The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL



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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I actually had one for years. NO WAY would I even think about getting 
near one again. To stat with, the 10:1 mix of gas and 30 weight motor 
oil made a nasty mess and it was famous for not starting at random times.


Joe

Coquina

On 5/30/2020 7:16 PM, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List wrote:

Humm...  :-)

From their website ( "its time" actually is 1931 ) :

For its time the original engine was very advanced, a good proportion 
of the original engines are still running and parts are generally 
still available to keep them that way - a truly unique engine, a 
magnificent piece of British engineering and ingenuity.


Sylvain ( with an A4 :-)  )


Le samedi 30 mai 2020 19 h 05 min 25 s HAE, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
 a écrit :





I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft 
British Seagull.


The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL



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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Stus-List Two things:

[Patrick Wesley via CnC-List]

I've just sold my 1983 24 Mk II, thanks for several responses re the sale 
process. So this will be my last or close-to-last posting. By the way, I did 
mention this list to the purchaser, having often found it to be of use or 
amusement over the years.


The other thing is, many years ago, in the flush of new ownership I bought 
something that was no doubt a good purchase, but for a boat with a crew of 
about 6 people. It is called a Morlift. The idea is that if you have a MOB 
(should that be Person Overboard these days) one recovery method is to lower 
the jib into the water, move the MOB into the sling thereby created and hoist 
them out on the halyard winch. The trouble apparently is the difficulty of 
stopping them sliding back into the water when the water runs out of the sail.


Enter the Morlift which has a mesh that lets the water run out out. Well made, 
as I recall in Nova Scotia. However when my buddy and I tried it at the dock we 
quickly figured out that you would have to have the aforementioned crew of 
maybe six people.


My purchaser did not want it and the Victoria Maritime Museum used equipment 
store which supplies funds to it is closed because of COVID. Is there anyone in 
legal range of Victoria, BC who could use it and could be relied upon to pick 
it up for free at the time and day agreed??


Regards, Patrick Wesley



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Re: Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel?

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I have a few out as well !

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On May 29, 2020, at 1:58 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List  
wrote:


I have an old panel at the boat locker I can check on the weekend to scavange 
some lights.


Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Ontario


On Fri., May 29, 2020, 1:45 p.m. ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I don't think indicator lights that old are LEDs. Try looking for non LED 
lights. The current draw is pretty low.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:06 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello all,

Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED:  Circuit Breaker 
Panel 
2.jpg


[https://s.yimg.com/nq/storm/assets/enhancrV2/23/logos/dropbox.png]
Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg

Shared with Dropbox

The bottom one is broken.

I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:  
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does anyone know where I might find the right replacement?

Thank you!

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"

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Stus-List Outboard Motor for Dinghy

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 18:52:02 -0400
From: JP Mail 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy
Message-ID: <36dcce7e-a8b7-4042-bf29-318964086...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I removed and cleaned the carb on our mercury 2.5 / 4 stroke. It runs and idles 
fine but will only rev about half way. I bought a rebuild kit and installed. 
Same. Ordered new carb. 
I think all the small engines are Chinese. And a lot are the same except 
badging and plastic. Like Home Depot lawn tractors. 
Jon

> 



--

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 19:04:29 -0400
From: James Hesketh 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British
Seagull.

The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 23:16:56 + (UTC)
From: Sylvain Laplante 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy
Message-ID: <560193308.194620.1590880616...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 Humm...? :-)
>From their website ( "its time" actually is 1931 ) :
For its time the original engine was very advanced, a good proportion of the 
original engines are still running and parts are generally still available to 
keep them that way - a truly unique engine, a magnificent piece of British 
engineering and ingenuity.
Sylvain ( with an A4? :-)? )

    Le samedi 30 mai 2020 19 h 05 min 25 s HAE, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
 a ?crit :  
 
 

I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft British 
Seagull. 

The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???
Jim HeskethC&C 26 WhisperMiami, FL


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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.? Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.? If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --? https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 19:17:06 -0400
From: Joe Della Barba 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy
Message-ID: <529c12db-86f6-75a9-7b19-6a59af824...@dellabarba.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

WAY too much!

Joe

Coquina

On 5/30/2020 7:04 PM, James Hesketh via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> I've just recently been offered a 5hp (with clutch) short-shaft 
> British Seagull.
>
> The price is right -- free -- but, but, but, ???
>
> Jim Hesketh
> C&C 26 Whisper
> Miami, FL
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 19:21:54 -0400
From: Joe Della Barba 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard motor for dinghy
Message-ID: <47a140a7-416d-9e8f-e3f1-8fcc3d411...@dellabarba.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

I actually had one for years. NO WAY would I even think about getting 
near one again. To stat with, 

Re: Stus-List C&C 32 - toerail bolts (Dave Godwin)

[Adam Johnson via CnC-List]

Dave - many thanks for checking. The hunt for hardware continues!

Adam.
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Re: Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel?

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I got my replacement Leds from Paneltronics. Theirs are a larger diameter than 
Blueseas. They fit the holes in my panels. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C&C 
Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
 Original message From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/30/20  19:32  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Conklin  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Replacement LED for circuit breaker panel? 
I have a few out as well ! 

John Conklin 
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com




On May 29, 2020, at 1:58 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List  
wrote:





I have an old panel at the boat locker I can check on the weekend to scavange 
some lights. 




Ed
Prime Interest 
Toronto, Ontario 





On Fri., May 29, 2020, 1:45 p.m. ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 wrote:



I don't think indicator lights that old are LEDs. Try looking for non LED 
lights. The current draw is pretty low.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:06 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:





Hello all,


Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED:  
Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg









































Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg

Shared with Dropbox























The bottom one is broken.  



I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:  
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2K7BK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Does anyone know where I might find the right replacement?


Thank you!



Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"





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