Stus-List Ceramic coatings?

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Chuck:

A J44 at our club was awlgriped painted...I know the boat is simply 
spray waxed each season first then hosed to rinsehave never asked 
what the product was as I understood it was for awlgrip.


Now interesting you mention ceramic-based coatingsI just bought a 
bottle of Hyper Slick Ceramic Coat HyperWax for my car.    If it works 
on a car, glass, etc., why couldn't it work on gelcoat.


WAC22916 - Hydro Slick Ceramic Coating Hyper Wax (16 oz) - Chemical Guys 
Canada 



And according to the UTube videos on applying it, you simply put it on a 
mirco sponge and spread it onto the surfaceminimal buffing.


Someone tell me it is O.K. to use this product on my gelcoatnot as 
easy as spraying and rinsing but easier than my normal liquid waxes.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.




On 2021-03-17 8:49 p.m., Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:
Has anyone tried any of the ‘new’ ceramic-based coatings that would 
replace waxing the hull?  Not sure if this is for real or 
not...promises of shiny boat and uv protection for entire year in a 
bottle. (Seems I’ve heard that one before?) Glidecoat is pricey and 
many products/other stuff is around $50-100 a bottle.


Would be nice to shoot a spray as opposed to certain shoulder 
impingement...any thoughts?  Cheers!  Chuck @Daydream 37+

--
*
*
*
*

*Chuck Saur*

517 490-5926 Cell



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Keel Repair

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I did that once. Ground off the lump of lead, and filled with thickened
epoxy. If you grind the lead, be sure you use a ainters mask with filters
so you don't breath the lead.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 5:02 PM John McLaughlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I tried to move a rock with my keel last season and put a ding in the
> forward point.  Lumped up some of the lead.  Did not remove any of it.
> Suggestions on repair are welcome.  This is a C 29-2.
>
> John McLaughlin
> Chelsea Yacht Club
> Chelsea on Hudson, NY
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8csHnQ0LcQ-YRsvl_hTinHesHf0M_QyC_2CIpbqqXOErUONBYeRJmhZ8j_18fZYUp-Y$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Keel Repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Assuming you mean repair the keel and not the rock?  :)

I'd try to restore as much of the original shape as I could with a hammer
or maul.  Then I'd grind, file or sand close to the original shape.

Assuming you'll have some holes or depressions remaining, I'd grind them
and the area around them down to bare lead and then immediately coat the
lead with neat (unthickened) epoxy using an abrasive (ScotchBrite) pad.
Apply the epoxy with the pad by scrubbing aggressively thus removing any
oxidation and leaving a protective layer of epoxy.

Fill any large holes with epoxy thickened with colloidal sicilia or
microfibers.  Smooth, fair and paint.  You won't need a barrier coat
because the epoxy will act as a barrier coat.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Mar 17, 2021 at 7:02 PM John McLaughlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I tried to move a rock with my keel last season and put a ding in the
> forward point.  Lumped up some of the lead.  Did not remove any of it.
> Suggestions on repair are welcome.  This is a C 29-2.
>
> John McLaughlin
>
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Keel Repair

[John McLaughlin via CnC-List]

I tried to move a rock with my keel last season and put a ding in the forward 
point.  Lumped up some of the lead.  Did not remove any of it.  Suggestions on 
repair are welcome.  This is a C 29-2.
John McLaughlinChelsea Yacht ClubChelsea on Hudson, NYThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Ceramic coatings?

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

Has anyone tried any of the ‘new’ ceramic-based coatings that would replace
waxing the hull?  Not sure if this is for real or not...promises of shiny
boat and uv protection for entire year in a bottle. (Seems I’ve heard that
one before?) Glidecoat is pricey and many products/other stuff is around
$50-100 a bottle.

Would be nice to shoot a spray as opposed to certain shoulder
impingement...any thoughts?  Cheers!  Chuck @Daydream 37+
-- 


*Chuck Saur*

517 490-5926 Cell
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Barrier Coat.

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Thanks! 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 17, 2021, at 5:54 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  John:
> 
> I did mine in 2006 after the bottom was dry iced blastedfollowed the 
> Interlux  Interprotect 2000E instructions to apply 5 coats (page 5) but after 
> mixing each batch, there was always a little left over so I went back to the 
> stat and rolled itboat got 7 coats and I had enough left for a few coats 
> for my bilge.  Whatever product you use, follow the instructions.
> 
> interprotect-guide.pdf (international-yachtpaint.com)
> 
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2021-03-17 10:28 a.m., John McCrea via CnC-List wrote:
>> All,
>>  
>> Has anyone applied a barrier coat lately and can provide some advice on the 
>> number of coats to achieve the required thickness? I will be applying with a 
>> roller and trying to estimate the number of gallons to pick up at the 
>> Defender sale. Talisman will be getting sandblasted next week and want to 
>> fair and then barrier coat. Thanks!
>>  
>> John McCrea
>> Talisman
>> 1979 36-1
>> Mystic, CT
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Barrier Coat.

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

John:

I did mine in 2006 after the bottom was dry iced blastedfollowed the 
Interlux  Interprotect 2000E instructions to apply 5 coats (page 5) but 
after mixing each batch, there was always a little left over so I went 
back to the stat and rolled itboat got 7 coats and I had enough left 
for a few coats for my bilge.  Whatever product you use, follow the 
instructions.


interprotect-guide.pdf (international-yachtpaint.com) 




Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-03-17 10:28 a.m., John McCrea via CnC-List wrote:


All,

Has anyone applied a barrier coat lately and can provide some advice 
on the number of coats to achieve the required thickness? I will be 
applying with a roller and trying to estimate the number of gallons to 
pick up at the Defender sale. Talisman will be getting sandblasted 
next week and want to fair and then barrier coat. Thanks!


John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List FYI - Marine Battery Sale

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Get a discount by using my Fisheries account 
number 627935. (it's tied to our Club and we get volume discount rates)





Subject: 🔋 Marine Battery Sale
From: Fisheries Supply 
Reply-To: Fisheries Supply 
To: Thomas 
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2021 19:25:54 +

Save on Dyno, Optima, MasterVolt & Lifeline Batteries
View 
this email in your browser


[]
 


[]

Fisheries Supply offers a huge selection of 
marine batteries from all the best brands, 
including Dyno, Lifeline, MasterVolt, Optima and 
more. Whether you’re looking for a deep cycle 
or a starter battery, AGM, gel or lead acid — we stock ‘em all!


[]
 


Now through March 28

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You are receiving this email because you opted 
in at our website, store location, or one of our 
sponsored events. If you prefer to no longer 
receive these emails, you can always unsubscribe.
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from this 
list 
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subscription preferences
Fisheries Supply  1900 N No​rthlake Way, 
Seattle, WA 
98​103  |  800.426.6930   | 
fisheriessupply.com 



.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Interlux InterProtect High Solids

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I saw that ad, too.  The issue that occurred to me is that the Interprotect
barrier coat that I used (and that Chuck described), at least as I
understand it, relies on multiple layers - not merely thickness -- to
enhance protection.  In other words, multiple layers are not recommended
simply because they build up thickness.  There's something protective about
the multi-layer barrier.  

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 3:29 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John McCrea 
Subject: Stus-List Interlux InterProtect High Solids

 

All,

 

I saw this advertised at Defender and also from Jamestown Marine. Has anyone
tried it? Thanks.

 



Choose Interprotect HS & Paint the Same Weekend 

 



Get longer lasting, proven protection above or below the waterline with this
high solids, low-VOC, 2-part epoxy primer system. Versatile enough for use
on all substrates in a variety of situations, apply it to fiberglass hulls
as a barrier to repair or prevent gelcoat blistering. On metal hulls and
other underwater metals, it creates a protective shield against corrosion.
InterProtect HS also has quick dry and consistent overcoat times so it's
ideal for use as a no-sand primer on new or unpainted fiberglass hulls.
 
Its high solids content yields a high-build coating that is not only
durable, but cost-effective because fewer coats are needed to achieve the
recommended dry film thickness, and its low VOC content complies with the
most restrictive VOC regulations.

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Interlux InterProtect High Solids

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

All,

 

I saw this advertised at Defender and also from Jamestown Marine. Has anyone
tried it? Thanks.

 



Choose Interprotect HS & Paint the Same Weekend 

 



Get longer lasting, proven protection above or below the waterline with this
high solids, low-VOC, 2-part epoxy primer system. Versatile enough for use
on all substrates in a variety of situations, apply it to fiberglass hulls
as a barrier to repair or prevent gelcoat blistering. On metal hulls and
other underwater metals, it creates a protective shield against corrosion.
InterProtect HS also has quick dry and consistent overcoat times so it's
ideal for use as a no-sand primer on new or unpainted fiberglass hulls.
 
Its high solids content yields a high-build coating that is not only
durable, but cost-effective because fewer coats are needed to achieve the
recommended dry film thickness, and its low VOC content complies with the
most restrictive VOC regulations.

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

I have to disagree with Dave. A lithium battery for the windlass would be a
huge waste of money and drastically overcomplicate things.
Lithium batteries are great but require substantial alterations to the
boat's electrical system. Even for the windlass application, precautions
need to be taken. A "drop-in" style lithium battery could work in this
application (definitely not as the boat's primary bank) but even that would
add unnecessary risk and expense. With a "drop-in" LiFePO4 (Battleborn,
Renogy, Dakota, etc), the battery still needs a dedicated DC-DC converter
(battery-to-battery charger) to safely charge at the battery's voltage and
current limits. These style batteries disconnect themselves internally in
case of over or undercharged events. This is not what you want if you have
to pull up the anchor in an emergency. Plus these batteries start at around
$600 for a 12V 60Ah.  You can find more details on the limitations and
design requirements of lithium aboard by reading my (username RMA)
contributions to this thread

on Cruisersforum.

The correct solution is to buy the appropriately sized

marine cable to run the windlass back to your house bank. I ripped out the
forward windlass battery on my 38 the moment I bought the boat and ran 3/0
the entire distance. Buy your cable by the 100' roll and save a fortune.
You can use the excess when you decide to upgrade your house bank to
LiFePO4 or install a larger inverter/charger. I bought mine at
wireandcableyourway

and
paid ~$330 including shipping for Ancor brand marine tinned 3/0.

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 10:09 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Or  use a lithium battery which doesn’t need to be vented, can be
> oriented in any direction, and would likely weigh less than the incremental
> heavy gauge cabling run required by the windlass  connection to the
> charger could be much smaller depending on the expected charging rate, and
> dod is greater, requiring a lower a/h rated (smaller) battery for the
> equivalent usable capacity.
>
> Charge via a small dc:dc charger off the house system.
> https://ca.renogy.com/renogy-12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7yCBhDJARIsAMWFScNT2ifqnsnfIeF-stcBCY7Z0uqGfL40x2HY83wccuRItirzuy_Ap_QaAhnoEALw_wcB
>
> Dave   33-2
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Pete,
>
> Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the
> windless in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in
> anyway. Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.
>
> I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought
> quite a bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea
> pretty quickly.
>
> I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of
> our boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to
> the existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so
> wanted to avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery
> that far forward either.
>
> I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port
> locker to the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with
> waterproof glands through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to
> port (next to existing battery switch location) at the base of the
> companionway steps. The solenoid for the control switches are mounted up
> under deck, to port in the anchor locker.
>
> Just my $0.02.
>
> Pictures of installation available upon request.
>
> Best regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
>
> P.S. Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion.
>
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a
> new AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty
> of room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my
> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific
> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears.
>
> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large,
> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any
> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the 

Stus-List Re: Barrier Coat.

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Ditto on what Chuck said, except: on my 42 Custom we applied about 10 coats 
(overkill – yes, I know), each coat was a different color to assist with 
recognizing the different layers when sanding, and a 42-foot boat uses about a 
gallon per coat.

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2021 10:24 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John McCrea ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Barrier Coat.

 

I did my project in 2007 so my memory may be blurred.  I found the Interprotect 
2000 coverage to be the same as bottom paint.  If you know how much bottom 
paint is needed to coat your boat, that's how much paint is needed for each 
coat of Interprotect.  They reccommend 4 to 5 coats.  I did 6 cause I did it in 
late fall and didn't want to bottom paint till Spring, so the last coat got 
sanded w 80 grit before bottom painting.  My 34R used about 3/4 of a gallon for 
each coat and the barrier coat is proud of the gel coat at the waterline and 
easier to bottom paint.  I alternated grey and white to apply five full coats 
and did a sixth coat in grey and had some left over that I've used over the 
years for touchups to the keel, etc.  Don't rush it.  Follow the directions and 
allow the 20min induction time after stirring.  I think I bought 2 gallons of 
Grey and two gallons of white, and bought another of grey at the end to paint 
the sacrificial coat and I'm still using that up. 

  

You need to stir this stuff with a paddle and a corded drill cause it's thick 
in the can.  I made the mistake of mixing the first gallon in the can and 
wasted about a quart figuring how much is needed for a coat.  After that, I 
poured paint into a clean bucket or painting pail and added the proper ratio 
hardener.  You can make small batches using measuring cups.  I think it's 3:1 
ratio. 

  

The stuff costs around $100 which is half of what bottom paint costs so don't 
skimp.   It stinks when it starts to kick and is one of only two paints I can't 
stay around.  I painted my bottom at the end of a work day and left for home so 
I didn't have to smell it.   

  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R 

.   

On 03/17/2021 9:28 AM John McCrea via CnC-List  wrote: 

  

  

All,

 

Has anyone applied a barrier coat lately and can provide some advice on the 
number of coats to achieve the required thickness? I will be applying with a 
roller and trying to estimate the number of gallons to pick up at the Defender 
sale. Talisman will be getting sandblasted next week and want to fair and then 
barrier coat. Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Barrier Coat.

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I did my project in 2007 so my memory may be blurred.  I found the Interprotect 
2000 coverage to be the same as bottom paint.  If you know how much bottom 
paint is needed to coat your boat, that's how much paint is needed for each 
coat of Interprotect.  They reccommend 4 to 5 coats.  I did 6 cause I did it in 
late fall and didn't want to bottom paint till Spring, so the last coat got 
sanded w 80 grit before bottom painting.  My 34R used about 3/4 of a gallon for 
each coat and the barrier coat is proud of the gel coat at the waterline and 
easier to bottom paint.  I alternated grey and white to apply five full coats 
and did a sixth coat in grey and had some left over that I've used over the 
years for touchups to the keel, etc.  Don't rush it.  Follow the directions and 
allow the 20min induction time after stirring.  I think I bought 2 gallons of 
Grey and two gallons of white, and bought another of grey at the end to paint 
the sacrificial coat and I'm still using that up.

You need to stir this stuff with a paddle and a corded drill cause it's thick 
in the can.  I made the mistake of mixing the first gallon in the can and 
wasted about a quart figuring how much is needed for a coat.  After that, I 
poured paint into a clean bucket or painting pail and added the proper ratio 
hardener.  You can make small batches using measuring cups.  I think it's 3:1 
ratio.

The stuff costs around $100 which is half of what bottom paint costs so don't 
skimp.   It stinks when it starts to kick and is one of only two paints I can't 
stay around.  I painted my bottom at the end of a work day and left for home so 
I didn't have to smell it.  

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R
.  

> On 03/17/2021 9:28 AM John McCrea via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> All,
> 
>  
> 
> Has anyone applied a barrier coat lately and can provide some advice on 
> the number of coats to achieve the required thickness? I will be applying 
> with a roller and trying to estimate the number of gallons to pick up at the 
> Defender sale. Talisman will be getting sandblasted next week and want to 
> fair and then barrier coat. Thanks!
> 
>  
> 
> John McCrea
> 
> Talisman
> 
> 1979 36-1
> 
> Mystic, CT
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

More than happy to oblige. I’m going over to the boat later today to install 
some plumbing fixtures and start to lap the 3 seacocks (head and galley sinks 
and engine intake). I want to take some, hopefully, more descriptive photos.

Stay tuned.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

I saw you sneak in Richard.  ;-)

> On Mar 17, 2021, at 9:54 AM, Steve via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dave, I too would like to see some pictures of your windlass installation. 
> I have a 37 as well and am considering putting one in. Thanks.
>  
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: March 16, 2021 9:42 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth
>  
> Hi Dave  
> I would like the pics on the windless
> I have sister ship  and want to. Cruise more and back is shot so i have green 
> light to get one :)
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net 
>  
> 
> 
>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> Pete, 
>>  
>> Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the 
>> windless in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in 
>> anyway. Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.
>>  
>> I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite 
>> a bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty 
>> quickly.
>>  
>> I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our 
>> boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the 
>> existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted 
>> to avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that 
>> far forward either.
>>  
>> I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port locker 
>> to the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof 
>> glands through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to 
>> existing battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The 
>> solenoid for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the 
>> anchor locker.
>>  
>> Just my $0.02.
>>  
>> Pictures of installation available upon request.
>>  
>> Best regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
>>  
>> P.S. Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion. 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>  
>>> Hey all,
>>> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a 
>>> new AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty 
>>> of room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my 
>>> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific 
>>> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. 
>>> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, 
>>> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any 
>>> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>>   Thanks - Stu
>> 
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Ditto on the photos...!
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596; 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Steve via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: sdeforest3...@gmail.com
Sent: Wed, Mar 17, 2021 9:54 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

#yiv3825553751 #yiv3825553751 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3825553751 
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div.yiv3825553751WordSection1 {}#yiv3825553751 Hi Dave, I too would like to see 
some pictures of your windlass installation. I have a 37 as well and am 
considering putting one in. Thanks.  From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
 
Sent: March 16, 2021 9:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth  Hi Dave  I would like 
the pics on the windlessI have sister ship  and want to. Cruise more and back 
is shot so i have green light to get one :)John Conklin S/V 
Halcyonwww.flirtingwithfire.net  


On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Pete,   Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for 
the windless in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in 
anyway. Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.  I mounted a Lewmar 
windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite a bit about doing 
what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty quickly.  I didn’t 
want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our boats. 
Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the existing 
system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted to avoid 
that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that far forward 
either.  I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port 
locker to the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof 
glands through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to 
existing battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The 
solenoid for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the 
anchor locker.  Just my $0.02.  Pictures of installation available upon 
request.  Best regards,Dave Godwin1982 C 37 - Ronin1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas 
Point 34 - Katana  P.S. Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the 
same fashion. 


On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
wrote:  Hey all,As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to 
install a new AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is 
plenty of room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done 
my homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific 
experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. My question 
relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, but I know AGMs 
need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any suggestions for adding an 
adequate vent to this area?Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to 
the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 Thanks - Stu
  Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Steve via CnC-List]

Hi Dave, I too would like to see some pictures of your windlass installation. I 
have a 37 as well and am considering putting one in. Thanks.

 

From: John Conklin via CnC-List  
Sent: March 16, 2021 9:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

 

Hi Dave  

I would like the pics on the windless

I have sister ship  and want to. Cruise more and back is shot so i have green 
light to get one :)

John Conklin 

S/V Halcyon

www.flirtingwithfire.net  

 





On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Pete, 

 

Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the windless 
in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in anyway. 
Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.

 

I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite a 
bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty 
quickly.

 

I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our 
boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the 
existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted to 
avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that far 
forward either.

 

I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port locker to 
the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof glands 
through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to existing 
battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The solenoid 
for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the anchor 
locker.

 

Just my $0.02.

 

Pictures of installation available upon request.

 

Best regards,

Dave Godwin

1982 C 37 - Ronin

1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

 

P.S. Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion. 





On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Hey all,

As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of room 
here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my homework on 
voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific experience on a 37 with 
a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. 

My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, but 
I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any suggestions 
for adding an adequate vent to this area?

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

   Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Barrier Coat.

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

All,

 

Has anyone applied a barrier coat lately and can provide some advice on the
number of coats to achieve the required thickness? I will be applying with a
roller and trying to estimate the number of gallons to pick up at the
Defender sale. Talisman will be getting sandblasted next week and want to
fair and then barrier coat. Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu