Stus-List turnbuckle lube

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hey Joel asked a good question.

What's the best lubricant for turnbuckles?



> On 03/25/2021 6:42 PM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> Should the turnbuckle be greased or oiled
> 
> On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 5:03 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Joe,
> >  
> > It may take some searching to find someone who will work on older 
> > rod rigging but they do exist. Here in the Boston area, North East Rigging 
> > out of Concord MA has this expertise. Call around and hopefully you can 
> > find someone in your area who can do the work. Does it save money in the 
> > end vs going with a newer dyneema solution - I am not sure and it will 
> > depend on what problems the rigger runs into as they go along?  Inspection 
> > is a challenge if the rig hasn't been taken apart in a while - last year on 
> > my 1981 C a lot of my fittings were seized and could not be inspected 
> > so that did require complete disassembly and reheading all of the rods.  
> > One rod had to be replaced as did the turnbuckles and the fittings on the 
> > end of the spreader.  The spreaders ended up being a lot of work and parts 
> > because the threads stripped on a part and no replacement was available.  
> > Replacement parts then required machining the ends of the spreaders.  Also 
> > the aluminum through bolts in the
  mast all had to be replaced which required custom machining of the ends to 
accommodate replacement stainless steel threaded. Including a new wire forestay 
and harken furler it came to ~$12k for all the parts and labor including 
setting up and tuning the rig. The rod rigging does seem to last a long time so 
I am hopeful that this will be good to go for many years to come.
> >  
> > Nathan
> >  
> > ~~~
> > S/V Wisper
> > 1981 C 34 CB
> > Lynn MA
> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to 
> > help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> > Thanks - Stu
> > 
> > > --
> Joel Delamirandehttp://www.jdroofing.ca
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Wire in a small computer muffin fan to circulate air.  Cold and hot spots 
disappear.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 9:20:04 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal

I had good luck with a silicone seal that I found I think it was at Lowe's. It 
was kind of oval shaped I think in Brown. It has a peel off strip that exposes 
an adhesive. The nice thing about it is that it never takes a set. It is always 
flexible & tight

Bill Coleman

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021, 9:00 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi All,



I enjoyed meeting a few you last night on the virtual rendezvous, thanks for a 
nice chat!



One question for the group tonight.  My refrigerator ices up quickly in one 
corner every season, so I suspect I need to find a way to get a better seal.  
Has anyone found a source for a good gasket material for refrigerator doors?  I 
see a lot of the magnetic kind found on household refrigerators, but that 
doesn’t seem to be what I need.  Suggestions are welcome!



Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 “Firewater”

Milwaukee, WI

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I had good luck with a silicone seal that I found I think it was at Lowe's.
It was kind of oval shaped I think in Brown. It has a peel off strip that
exposes an adhesive. The nice thing about it is that it never takes a set.
It is always flexible & tight

Bill Coleman

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021, 9:00 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
>
>
> I enjoyed meeting a few you last night on the virtual rendezvous, thanks
> for a nice chat!
>
>
>
> One question for the group tonight.  My refrigerator ices up quickly in
> one corner every season, so I suspect I need to find a way to get a better
> seal.  Has anyone found a source for a good gasket material for
> refrigerator doors?  I see a lot of the magnetic kind found on household
> refrigerators, but that doesn’t seem to be what I need.  Suggestions are
> welcome!
>
>
>
> Jim Reinardy
>
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
>
> Milwaukee, WI
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Refrigerator Door Seal

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Can you provide some links to photos? I have so.mr ideas.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Refrigerator Door Seal

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Hi All,

 

I enjoyed meeting a few you last night on the virtual rendezvous, thanks for
a nice chat!

 

One question for the group tonight.  My refrigerator ices up quickly in one
corner every season, so I suspect I need to find a way to get a better seal.
Has anyone found a source for a good gasket material for refrigerator doors?
I see a lot of the magnetic kind found on household refrigerators, but that
doesn't seem to be what I need.  Suggestions are welcome!

 

Jim Reinardy

C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C 40 rigging

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

I would be interested to know if salt vs fresh water changes the life span of stainless rigging and I suspect it does. My rig looks and functions like new but it has always been in fresh water. Additionally, boats are out of the water 6 months a year in the north.I had a 1981 C 36KCB that was dismasted due to the threads on the backstay bolt failing. It’s the double ended bolt. Someone told me it was made of antimony but I have no way of confirming that. I should write something about the dismasting because it didn’t play out as expected or as described by others. As long as the fittings aren’t seized and the hardware looks good inspect it, do a dye test on the fittings and worry about something else. Having had an issue with the backstay bolt replace it if there is any question! Mine was worn more than I knew. Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C 37+Midland On. Sent from my iPadThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Defective Rigger for sure.

At 12:59 PM 3/25/2021, you wrote:
In my opinion, this is just a money making 
scheme.  Has anyone ever heard of a rig failure 
of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they 
were C dealers a long time ago.


Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via 
CnC-List  wrote:


I had mine inspected and some reheaded about 
five years ago on my 1981 40. We had to replace 
the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the 
fitting where it went around the spreader would 
have been in a different place. I think we 
replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did 
something similar with my 1995 Baltic two years 
ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to 
replace all the rod. The area to really look at 
is the spreader tips and the fittings there.


Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



Ran into a snag:

The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging 
from 1981 was NOT going to pass their survey 
just from age and some the fittings used back 
then could not be inspected, taking them apart 
is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an idea on 
the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?


It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA
 the subscribers that contributed to the list 
to help with the costs involved.  If you want 
to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that 
contributed to the list to help with the costs 
involved.  If you want to show your support to 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Should the turnbuckle be greased or oiled

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 5:03 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
>
> It may take some searching to find someone who will work on older rod
> rigging but they do exist. Here in the Boston area, North East Rigging out
> of Concord MA has this expertise. Call around and hopefully you can find
> someone in your area who can do the work. Does it save money in the end vs
> going with a newer dyneema solution - I am not sure and it will depend on
> what problems the rigger runs into as they go along?  Inspection is a
> challenge if the rig hasn't been taken apart in a while - last year on my
> 1981 C a lot of my fittings were seized and could not be inspected so
> that did require complete disassembly and reheading all of the rods.  One
> rod had to be replaced as did the turnbuckles and the fittings on the end
> of the spreader.  The spreaders ended up being a lot of work and parts
> because the threads stripped on a part and no replacement was available.
> Replacement parts then required machining the ends of the spreaders.  Also
> the aluminum through bolts in the mast all had to be replaced which
> required custom machining of the ends to accommodate replacement stainless
> steel threaded. Including a new wire forestay and harken furler it came to
> ~$12k for all the parts and labor including setting up and tuning the rig.
> The rod rigging does seem to last a long time so I am hopeful that this
> will be good to go for many years to come.
>
> Nathan
>
> ~~~
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34 CB
> Lynn MA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Monty Schumpert via CnC-List]

I am having the rod rigging on my 1991 34+ inspected and replaced as needed
by “The Rigging Company” in Annapolis.  They replaced the lifelines several
years ago and did a good job for a fair price. The mast is down and the
rigging is in their shop now — just got an updated invoice which increased
a little due to some parts which need replacing.

Monty Schumpert
Scandia
1991 C 34+

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 5:03 PM Nathan Post via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
>
> It may take some searching to find someone who will work on older rod
> rigging but they do exist. Here in the Boston area, North East Rigging out
> of Concord MA has this expertise. Call around and hopefully you can find
> someone in your area who can do the work. Does it save money in the end vs
> going with a newer dyneema solution - I am not sure and it will depend on
> what problems the rigger runs into as they go along?  Inspection is a
> challenge if the rig hasn't been taken apart in a while - last year on my
> 1981 C a lot of my fittings were seized and could not be inspected so
> that did require complete disassembly and reheading all of the rods.  One
> rod had to be replaced as did the turnbuckles and the fittings on the end
> of the spreader.  The spreaders ended up being a lot of work and parts
> because the threads stripped on a part and no replacement was available.
> Replacement parts then required machining the ends of the spreaders.  Also
> the aluminum through bolts in the mast all had to be replaced which
> required custom machining of the ends to accommodate replacement stainless
> steel threaded. Including a new wire forestay and harken furler it came to
> ~$12k for all the parts and labor including setting up and tuning the rig.
> The rod rigging does seem to last a long time so I am hopeful that this
> will be good to go for many years to come.
>
> Nathan
>
> ~~~
> S/V Wisper
> 1981 C 34 CB
> Lynn MA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Joe,

It may take some searching to find someone who will work on older rod
rigging but they do exist. Here in the Boston area, North East Rigging out
of Concord MA has this expertise. Call around and hopefully you can find
someone in your area who can do the work. Does it save money in the end vs
going with a newer dyneema solution - I am not sure and it will depend on
what problems the rigger runs into as they go along?  Inspection is a
challenge if the rig hasn't been taken apart in a while - last year on my
1981 C a lot of my fittings were seized and could not be inspected so
that did require complete disassembly and reheading all of the rods.  One
rod had to be replaced as did the turnbuckles and the fittings on the end
of the spreader.  The spreaders ended up being a lot of work and parts
because the threads stripped on a part and no replacement was available.
Replacement parts then required machining the ends of the spreaders.  Also
the aluminum through bolts in the mast all had to be replaced which
required custom machining of the ends to accommodate replacement stainless
steel threaded. Including a new wire forestay and harken furler it came to
~$12k for all the parts and labor including setting up and tuning the rig.
The rod rigging does seem to last a long time so I am hopeful that this
will be good to go for many years to come.

Nathan

~~~
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34 CB
Lynn MA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

FWIW, our 1976 38-ii was partially rerigged in 2013. The previous owner
swapped all of the shrouds for Dyneema and new turnbuckles. The forestay
was replaced with wire before the PO bought it. Probably around the time
the harken furler was installed (my guess is 2003-2006). The backstay is
still rod and I believe it is original. The hydraulic tensioner just failed
last season and I replaced it with a Dyneema cascade using some of
Colligo's Dyneema fittings but the amount of force need to tension it was
insane. This year I'm just putting in a large turnbuckle and a stay
extender. We don't race so it might as well be static.

The Dyneema shrouds are still in excellent shape. They need tuning every
season but it isn't hard to do. Our stays are the heat-set Dyneema which is
pricey but I've always imagined one could build their entire rig from
oversized standard Dyneema and just pay more attention to tensioning it as
it stretches (strength is not the issue, elongation is the problem).
Defender always has cheap offcuts of 12-15mm Dyneema in lengths up to 60'
for dirt cheap (~$35). You have to go into the store to find these,
however, as they don't sell them online.

Best of luck,

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:13 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I refit my 37/40 the riggers wouldn’t touch it; too old. I replaced
> all the standing rigging and fittings. It was just shy of $20k Canadian.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 1:07 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> For the Marion Bermuda race 2009, 2011 and 2015 my original rigging on my
> 1981 40-2 (I think its original) had to be surveyed for the race rider.
> Passed each time.   But I doubt they would let go again.   Locally.  I have
> absolute confidence in the rig.  Out there the loads can be incredible and
> would plan on finally replacing it, or at least totally deconstructing and
> x-raying it with a rigging blessing.   Mostly the issues are in heads.
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 4:01 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging
>
>
>
> It is also an insurance issue.  Many times a rigging inspection is
> required.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:00 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard
> of a rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C
> dealers a long time ago.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
>
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> Annapolis, MD
>
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
>
>
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981
> 40. We had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting
> where it went around the spreader would have been in a different place. I
> think we replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my
> 1995 Baltic two years ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace
> all the rod. The area to really look at is the spreader tips and the
> fittings there.
>
>
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
>
> 26 Beacon Hill
>
> Newport, RI
>
> USA02840
>
>
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
> +401 965-5260
>
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ran into a snag:
>
> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to
> pass their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could
> not be inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an
> idea on the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
>
> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Matthew via CnC-List]

A sistership of my 42 Custom had a rigging failure.  I can ask the owner what 
caused it if people have an interest.

 

From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 3:59 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

 

In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard of a 
rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C dealers a 
long time ago.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com  

Annapolis, MD 

(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)





On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981 40. We 
had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting where it went 
around the spreader would have been in a different place. I think we replaced 
some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my 1995 Baltic two years 
ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace all the rod. The area to 
really look at is the spreader tips and the fittings there.

 

Andy

Andrew Burton

26 Beacon Hill

Newport, RI 

USA02840

 

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

+401 965-5260


On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ran into a snag:

The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to pass 
their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could not be 
inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an idea on the 
longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?

It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

When I refit my 37/40 the riggers wouldn’t touch it; too old. I replaced all 
the standing rigging and fittings. It was just shy of $20k Canadian. 

Cheers, Al


> On Mar 25, 2021, at 1:07 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> For the Marion Bermuda race 2009, 2011 and 2015 my original rigging on my 
> 1981 40-2 (I think its original) had to be surveyed for the race rider.  
> Passed each time.   But I doubt they would let go again.   Locally.  I have 
> absolute confidence in the rig.  Out there the loads can be incredible and 
> would plan on finally replacing it, or at least totally deconstructing and 
> x-raying it with a rigging blessing.   Mostly the issues are in heads.
>  
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 4:01 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging
>  
> It is also an insurance issue.  Many times a rigging inspection is required.
>  
> Joel
>  
> On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:00 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard of 
> a rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C dealers a 
> long time ago.
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
> 
> 
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981 40. 
> We had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting where it 
> went around the spreader would have been in a different place. I think we 
> replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my 1995 
> Baltic two years ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace all the 
> rod. The area to really look at is the spreader tips and the fittings there.
>  
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
>  
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ran into a snag:
> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to pass 
> their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could not be 
> inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an idea on 
> the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> 
>  
> --
> Joel
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[David Risch via CnC-List]

For the Marion Bermuda race 2009, 2011 and 2015 my original rigging on my 1981 
40-2 (I think its original) had to be surveyed for the race rider.  Passed each 
time.   But I doubt they would let go again.   Locally.  I have absolute 
confidence in the rig.  Out there the loads can be incredible and would plan on 
finally replacing it, or at least totally deconstructing and x-raying it with a 
rigging blessing.   Mostly the issues are in heads.

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2021 4:01 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

It is also an insurance issue.  Many times a rigging inspection is required.

Joel

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:00 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard of a 
rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C dealers a 
long time ago.

Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)


On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981 40. We 
had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting where it went 
around the spreader would have been in a different place. I think we replaced 
some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my 1995 Baltic two years 
ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace all the rod. The area to 
really look at is the spreader tips and the fittings there.

Andy
Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ran into a snag:
The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to pass 
their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could not be 
inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an idea on the 
longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


--
Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

It is also an insurance issue.  Many times a rigging inspection is required.

Joel

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:00 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard
> of a rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C
> dealers a long time ago.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981
> 40. We had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting
> where it went around the spreader would have been in a different place. I
> think we replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my
> 1995 Baltic two years ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace
> all the rod. The area to really look at is the spreader tips and the
> fittings there.
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ran into a snag:
>
> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to
> pass their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could
> not be inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an
> idea on the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
>
> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard of a 
rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C dealers a 
long time ago.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)

> On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981 40. 
> We had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting where it 
> went around the spreader would have been in a different place. I think we 
> replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my 1995 
> Baltic two years ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace all the 
> rod. The area to really look at is the spreader tips and the fittings there.
> 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Ran into a snag:
>> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to 
>> pass their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could 
>> not be inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an 
>> idea on the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
>> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>>  
>>  
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>> Kent Island MD USA
>>  
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981 40. We 
had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting where it went 
around the spreader would have been in a different place. I think we replaced 
some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my 1995 Baltic two years 
ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace all the rod. The area to 
really look at is the spreader tips and the fittings there.

Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ran into a snag:
> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to pass 
> their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could not be 
> inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an idea on 
> the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C 40 rigging

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Ran into a snag:

The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to
pass their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could
not be inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an
idea on the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?

It doesn't have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

 

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu