Re: Stus-List Help understanding composites
John, For more info, go here: http://www.fibreglast.com/category/Learning_Center Lots of info on resin infusion, fiberglass fabric, roving, mat, and lots of stuff you don't want to know about. Articles and videos. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Mar 1, 2014 at 7:16 PM, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote: Thanks - was confusing the terms mat and roving. Wish the book was still in print - will need to find a copy. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 1, 2014, at 2:53 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Glass mat and chopped strand are the same thing...CSM. The 34+ was probably a layup of CSM, woven roving, and kevlar in a vinylester matrix with balsa core. E glass is the same basis as woven roving, just a different weave. Cloth is a lighter version of roving. The woven roving in the 34+ and the 121 would both be e-glass, although the later boat would likely have some biaxial or unidirectional glass in places for better engineered strength. For more information, have a look at this... http://www.marinecomposites.com/ Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 1 March 2014 11:27, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote: I'm but an accountant not an engineer. Help me understand this stuff.. So if I use a 1990 34+ as the baseline, the hull was a composite of vinyl resin, presumably glass matt and chopped strand, balsa core and Kevlar. Now fast forward to 2000 and my early 121. The glass Matt has been replaced by E glass, balsa has been replaced by core cell, glass strand remains to add bulk and the Kevlar remains. Presumably this provides a lighter hull as the e glass is stronger than matt, core cell is lighter than balsa and requires less resin and the Kevlar remains the same. Fast forward another 10 years and we have epoxy, reinforced with carbon which does the job of Kevlar, matt, e glass and strand. The core cell remains. Am I even close? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Looking for a used Harken MkIII Unit 1 Reefer or parts for a MKII Unit 1
My tip is to buy a new Harken MK IV. However, I understand budget constraints. I have a MKIII Unit 1 on Touche'. It took me about an hour to disassemble my MKIII last year. Fortunately, the MKIII doesn't have the dreaded roll pins to hold the extrusions together. Chuck is correct, you will need to completely disassemble the furler. If you're lucky, you can save the forestay. However, if there is any damage or questionable spots, chunk it and buy a new one. A new forestay should be under $200. It can be wire. I'm not convinced that rod is justified for the stays. Shrouds, yes. Hopefully you have a manual and know how to loosen the torque tube and the locking collar. If not, visit the Harken site. They have exploded drawings, parts lists and manuals online. Once you have removed the drum assembly, torque tube etc. and have just the extrusions, the real work begins. Anyway, if the person who assembled the MKIII knew what they were doing and followed the instructions, you will be in it for a bit of work. The connectors and screws should have been installed with red threadlocker. You will have to remove the extrusions one by one beginning with the bottom section with the feeder slot. For those who managed to read this far, one of the better tools to use for this job, and, IMHO, one of the best tools a boat owner can have is a Gearwrench micro driver set, Model 30035. This tool will be far better than a screwdriver to remove the screws from the extrusion. You can apply a lot of downward pressure while controlling the amount of rotational force. Use a heat gun to loosen the threadlocker on the screws. Once you remove the screws at each connection, apply heat to the joint and carefully try to spread the joint using a 5 in 1 knife on the sides and opposite the tracks. If you can get it to spread slightly, use a screwdriver to spread it farther. Try not to work on the track side. If you booger up the tracks you will have to file them on reassembly to get the sail's tape to run smooth. You can also try to hammer the connection with the bottom swage stud of the forestay if it's wire. Secure the top eye to a solid object. Like screw it to a piling or the dock with a lag bolt. Now you can slide the bottom extrusion down hard so the swage slams the connector. Hopefully, you will see if begin to move. Remember to use heat. Once you have removed a lower section, grab the connector with some vise grips, heat the joint and carefully but strongly remove the connector. Try not to mar it too badly. You'll have to dress it up in order to reassemble it. Just make sure you don't bend it. Repeat for each section. Be patient and try not to do a lot of damage. Good luck. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 6:43 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: I installed my Harken furler and know the removal will be very involved, especially if sections are damaged or twisted. If I remember right, the top eye is too big to pull the sections off there, and instead you have to remove the torque tube and all of the aluminum sections from the bottom. The 7 long connectors that join the sections and ride on the rod, stay on the rod, so you have to slide the sections over each one till they come off the bottom. I think there are 7 sections and it will take some time to take it all apart. It may be wise to cut the rod close to the eye or the bottom fitting and pull the old stuff off and trash recycle it for scrap. Then coil the rod and take it to a rigger and have him install the bearing pieces and rehead the rod.You can add a toggle to make up the rod length and keep your headstay length. See page 22 of the manual. http://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/Product_Support/PDF/mk3-1-4863.pdf I think I would order a new furler. Maybe Dennis has some tips? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ -- *From: *Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Thursday, February 27, 2014 10:45:35 AM *Subject: *Stus-List Looking for a used Harken MkIII Unit 1 Reefer or partsfor a MKII Unit 1 Hi Y'all, With the boat on the hard and the mast down (Thanks for encouraging me on the mast un-stepping, it was a quick and easy deal). I found a few skeletons in the closet.. The easy one The LED anchor light is shot, I'll replace it with a nice Tricolor, here's what I have in mind: http://www.transmarinestore.com/product_p/sm001.htm It's a bit pricey but it looks top notch and would save the batteries when sailing in the dark. I'm thinking about getting the 2 wires unit with the reversing switch. Any reason I should rewire for 3 wires? The potentially expensive one.. The boat currently has a MkII unit 1 that has seen better days, one of the foils is shot (Twist and rip) some prior owner probably did the ol' halyard wrap trick. A couple others are bent in an S shape..
Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM from CC 32 available
Mais, ma cher, votre bateau needs one of deez here motors. Wit' one of deez, you be able to bring yourself down the bayou most fast! http://www.boghogmudmotors.com/ or http://sdb.alducks.com/?page_id=34 Dennis C Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 9:09 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: It's not truly redneck until you put a dragon boat drive shaft on a V6 on the lazarette. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 27 February 2014 18:43, bobmor99 . bobmo...@gmail.com wrote: Is your A4 running OK? What are your motoring needs, present and future? I ignored advice to upgrade to a diesel when I bought Ox 8 years ago. It/she came with a rebuilt A4 on a pallet. That should work, I thought, it just needs installation. And it has worked, for the most part. But I'm mainly a daysailor who motors 20 minutes getting off the dock and another 20 minutes returning. Just my $.02. If I needed to repower, I'd probably get a different boat with one of those fancy, new-fangled diesel engines. Or redneck it and put an outboard on the transom. Bob M Ox, 33-1 Jax, FL On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 3:38 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Hi All, http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-watercraft-sailboats-2GM-Yanmar-Diesel-W0QQAdIdZ569939186 i've got an A4. This is tempting. But I don't know anything about diesels and it's a little dubious. how does one go about assessing the condition of a motor without a transmission, outside of the boat? 400 hours? Unlikely for a 30 year old motor. I'm probably asking for too much. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List a source for Si-tex radar domes?
Eric, You might try a couple of the search engines that look at local classifieds and craigslists. yakaz.com, claz,org, etc. You might turn up a unit that way. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 9:16 AM, Eric Frank efran...@mac.com wrote: I have been trying to locate a small radar dome that is compatible with my Standard Horizon CP300i chartplotter. It is a nuisance to run below to look at the radar screen, so it would be great to have the display on the chartplotter at the helm. The CP300i is compatible with the Si-tex radars, but Si-Tex has stopped making them and the dealers I have contacted have no more in stock. Fred Street, of this list-serve, tried hard to locate one for me, but was unsuccessful. Just thought someone else on this list might know where I could locate one, even used. Ebay has them but at double the list price. 2.2 boat-bucks for a very low-end radar dome seems excessive! Eric Frank Cat's Paw CC 35 Mk II Mattapoisett, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Isotemp hot water heater (35-1 install)
That's what I like about the Isotemps. The flexible mounting options. For Touche', a 35-1, I'm thinking about installing a 4 gal SPA model in the starboard cockpit locker under the shelf. That's a space that's underutilized now. It should be an easy install. Just bolt the bracket under the shelf and hook it up. Hose runs will be short. Be interested in what other 35-1 owners think. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 11:27 AM, Lee Youngblood leeyoungbl...@earthlink.net wrote: Thanks Dave, I bookmarked your refit site! What a great inspiring resource! Thanks, Lee PS Are you Wally's little brother? I http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/02/new-hot-water-heater.htmlinstalled (mostlyŠ) an Isotemp Slim 20 water heater in my boat. Very nice item and it allowed me to change to location of the water heater. I don't know what the locker space on a 32 is like but I was able to make a mockup of the dimensions to check before buying. Best, Dave Godwin 1982 CC 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/Ronin's Overdue Refit -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM from CC 32 available
All that glitters is not gold J. R. R. Tolkien Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 5:04 PM, Paul Fountain paul.fount...@sympatico.cawrote: I totally agree - replaced the 2GMF in Perception, a CC 33-II with a Beta Marine 25 HP ... and would not go back! By the time you get it all together - mounts transmission etc and any replacement parts you will be close to the cost of the Beta - ESPECIALLY at the prices charged for Yanmar parts in Canada, and the US distributors wont ship here! *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim Watts *Sent:* February 26, 2014 5:07 PM *To:* 1 CnC List *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM from CC 32 available Frank on Felicity changed out his 2GM for a 3GM because he felt it was underpowered. For the amount of work involved, I wouldn't bother changing out an A4 for a 2GM missing various bits. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 26 February 2014 13:08, Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com wrote: 2 years ago I converted from A4 to Westerbeke 40 and kept the tank and shaft. I even kept the engine panel. I went from 1.5 to 2 exhaust dues to increase in HP. But going down in HP you can keep the exhaust. Slightly oversized engine mounts will take care of vibrations. Basically like the ones you already have for A4(if you have them). Shaft coupling can be had with vibration dampening. Engine will vibrate, especially at low RPMs, but not the hull. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel Aronson *Sent:* Wednesday, February 26, 2014 3:48 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM from CC 32 available Steve, You'd need a tranny, new fuel tank, lines and filter, new prop, exhaust, possibly a new shaft ... It would probably fit, but a 2GM is not overpowering for a 32. It also probably came out of a boat with no hour meter, but even 4,000 is OK if it were maintained. I'd take that 6-10 k and put it towards the Landfall, but that's just my opinion. Joel On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 3:38 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Hi All, http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-boats-watercraft-sailboats-2GM-Yanmar-Diesel-W0QQAdIdZ569939186 i've got an A4. This is tempting. But I don't know anything about diesels and it's a little dubious. how does one go about assessing the condition of a motor without a transmission, outside of the boat? 400 hours? Unlikely for a 30 year old motor. I'm probably asking for too much. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM from CC 32 available
I'm pretty sure the guys in Canada haven't done that. However, as for us southern guys, I plead the fifth (The Glenlivet, that is). Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 mandeville, LA On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 6:32 PM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: Yeah, but have you ever spent an afternoon in February walking naked down a beach that's filled with pyrite? Who cares about hockey, anyway. Wal Dennis Cheuvront wrote: All that glitters is not gold ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering
My first boat didn't have a shower or pressure water. I bought a 2.5 gallon pump up garden sprayer and spliced a kitchen sink sprayer on the end of the hose. Pumped it up and voila!, a cockpit shower for rinsing off. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 7:06 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: When I was wintering in the Caribbean running charter boats and before watermakers were cheap and compact, our routine for getting clean would be to jump over the side, get out, lather up with Joy dish soap. jump back in to rinse and then rinse the salt off with a kettle full of water. Great feeling! We'd do the same offshore, except we'd drag a bucket over the side and dump it over our head. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 10:27 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Neil, my 32 is a 1980, hull #59. We're in fresh water. The first time we ever actually swam off the boat was this past summer when we went to the thousand islands. Jumping off the boat that first time .. no wait, second .. (I lost my shades off the stern in our anchorage. Filthy water. Didn't even find my shades). Anyway, swimming off the boat at anchor was great. We kind of just did what Bruno described, being in fresh water. So I haven't _needed_ the shower but it's a nice to know thing. I got excited about the Landfall's separate shower stall. I guess it's not critical. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 10:02 PM, Jim Reinardy firewa...@reinardy.uswrote: Kevin, I sent a picture off list from my winterizing checklist pictures. Hope that helps! Jim Reinardy CC 30-2 Firewater Milwaukee, WI *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin Driscoll *Sent:* Monday, February 24, 2014 8:44 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering Would anyone have a link or photo to shower sump drain? Ours is missing and the vinyl house is plugged. 30mkII aft head. Thanks Kevin Sent from a mobile device. On Feb 24, 2014 2:25 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote: Steve, While cruising, we usually take showers, although quick ones every day. Our 32 came with shower installed with sump pickup under grate. We also carry two five gallon sun showers while cruising. They work great for ferrying water back to boat and also when we haven't run the engine for awhile, and hot water tank is lukewarm, I take the sun shower and hoist it up on pole lift, then run nozzle into head's hatch. I actually prefer this method for then I don't have to use one hand to hold shower nozzle in head while trying to soap up at same time. And I also agree with others that this is a great way to keep the head clean. Here's a funny story. My wife and I were out for a ten day cruise, and of course when we depart, water tank is full, hot water heater carries five gallons too, and two sun showers. Now when cruising you are always going into the dock if you are at a certain island or harbor, right? So what I have learned to do is always keep one sun shower empty in dink ready to fill up when ashore. So I fill up the sun shower a couple of times over the first couple of days, then the third or fourth day I fill it up again, and before I put it into the main tank, I think, wait a minute, what if the main tank is already full ? If I put it in when full, it just overflows into the bilge. So I check the main tank (or I should say, only tank), and sure enough, it's topped up. So I have learned that even while cruising and taking showers every night we aren't going thru that much water every day. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead, MA Message: 2 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 15:59:33 -0400 From: Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering Message-ID: 530ba4a5.8020...@eastlink.ca Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Steve: We have a shower in the head on our CC 32.shower water is pumped overboard from the sump under the wooden grate in the head. Shower water does not go into the bilge. While there is not an abundance of space, there is enough to stand up and/or sit down to run fresh water over your bodyand isn't that was counts? Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/24 3:31 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote: Thanks for your input Wally. Having never taken a shower on a boat I always assumed that the head/shower combo would leave a big mess. I know that at home one of my least favourite chores is scrubbing the bathtub. Doesn't the whole head get all soap scummy? There is certainly a case to be made for storage. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto -- Message: 3 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:03:33 -0400 From: dwight
Re: Stus-List cruising showering
If you or your crew balk at the idea of baby wipes, they do make adult wipes. Charmin adult wipes can be found at WalMart. Some of the dollar stores carry their own brand. We use them on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 9:02 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: We carry baby wipes' on deliveries offshore. They are a great way to keep clean when there's no water. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 9:46 AM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.cawrote: Dwight: The port in the head opens to the top of the coachroof..the glass is tinted but the port opens in an upward direction. Same as the port in the main salon. As for a shower to get refreshed before the drive home, the showers in the 'spar shed building', as we come ashore, offer far more space and comfort, and endless hot water. I would recommend that over the 'less than abundant space' on AZURA. And now that 2 of them have been made 'handicapped accessible', they are really comfortable for both 'portly' and 'slim' sailors, and you have the option of sitting down as well. So let's back on water ASAP and put these showers to use. Rob On 2014/02/24 9:29 PM, dwight wrote: OK Bob, I guess I haven't been in the head area that much on Azura but I do remember that it seemed quite tight on space but I was bigger then than I am now and I don't remember where the port is. I'll take a shower next time out for a sail on the harbour and feel refreshed for the long drive home: that always helps to keep one alert while driving -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: February 24, 2014 9:12 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List cruising showering Dwight: Yes, I have showered on the boatpressurized hot and cold waterpump under the sink to discharge the shower water directly overboard. I can shower standing up or siting down. And yes, there is not an abundance of space but as long as you can run water over your head/body, lather up and rinse, isn't that the point. I don't understand the 'dark to me' thing.there is a hatch that opens.lots of light that comes in.and then there are 12V lights in the head if you had to shower at night. Apparently Tom Anderson doesn't have any problems showering on his 32. Rob On 2014/02/24 4:10 PM, dwight wrote: Robert I have seen the space on your 32...have you tried to take a shower there yet? Looked pretty cramped and dark to me ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Broken water pump impeller vanes - Find them!
I was cleaning a salvaged generator heat exchanger prior to listing it on eBay. I dumped the rinse water out of the raw water side (tube side) and two broken impeller blades fell out. Just another confirmation that broken vanes can travel further than you think. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering
Guess I can't help but notice the incidence of rusted out water heaters mentioned here. Some brands don't use stainless. Hence the shorter service lives. For me, stainless tank. Period. The new Isotemp SPA series water heaters keep the stainless tank but switch to a polypropelene exterior. $450 for the 4 gallon model. Well worth the $200 difference over the Kuuma and better materials than some well known brands in my opinion. Every time I cheap it, I end up wishing I hadn't. It's a lesson we sailors never seem to learn. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 5:33 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Rick, the new Kuuma/Camco/West Marine water heaters have gone to aluminum cases from stainless. This happened shortly after Force 10 sold the rights to it. Finding an old new one would be a better bet if there are any out there. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 24 February 2014 19:03, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Mark; I mentioned before that AFIK boat water heaters come in two flavors: electric or electric plus heat exchanger. I have a Kuuma stainless steel ( housing is stainless so no corrosion), 6 gallon, 120v, front mount (heat exchanger inlet and outlet on the front) that I bought on eBay for $200. If there is a Wal-Mart near you, you can buy one online from WalMart.com and have it delivered to the store for $259.00. There are also several like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KUUMA-6-GALLON-HOT-WATER-HEATER-w-REAR-HEAT-EXCHANGE-F-B-MOUNTING-FLANGE-11812-/321065220895?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gearhash=item4ac0fa7b1fvxp=mtron eBay at the moment. Rick Brass *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley *Sent:* Monday, February 24, 2014 7:50 PM *To:* CC List *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering Mark, I've never seen an engine heat only option on a water heater. The cheapest water heater with heat exchanger I've seen was an Attwood for about $350. You could just not use, of even not hook up, the electricity. On the other hand if someone is parting with one that has broken electric heat, you could probably ship it for less than $100 and possibly fix the electric if desired in the future. Usually just a $20 heating element. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD A hot shower option is one of the Admiral's/kids requests for the new boat - so I've been looking at the process required for the upgrade. I don't ever hook up to AC power, nor do I think it is a common option for where I'll be doing any cruising around here - but I will need a water exchanger (one lister has offered up an old unit with broken electrical - but not sure it's worth shipping anyone know if there is an option for just a heat exchanger tank?). I do have pressure cold water on the boat - so I think all I need is the heat exchanger tank, a mixing valve and plumbing. Mark ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering
Steve, We're fairly miserly on Touche'. However, if we're in port we have the option to hook up to dock water. That's a quick and simple upgrade you might consider. Just tee into the discharge of your pump and install a city water inlet on the outside of your cockpit coaming. (Be sure to turn it off or disconnect it if you leave the boat for any length of time.) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 12:25 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: I'de love to see your boat Ed, thanks for the offer. Question about showering on a boat in general .. I put pressure water on the boat this past summer. When I am doing the dishes or washing up i run the water then turn it off. Scrub. Turn water on, rinse. I am miserly with the water. When you guys shower, do you shower like you do at home or kind of like how I do the dishes? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 1:15 PM, D Harben sailadventu...@rogers.comwrote: Hi Ed and Stevan, May I chime in here with my interest to also see a Landfall 38 Don On Feb 24, 2014, at 1:01 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.com wrote: Prime interest has the u-shaped galley, no separate shower, the single quarter berth and nav station. I'd be happy to show it to you sometime. ed Prime Interset 1982 Landfall 38 Toronto, Ontario On Monday, February 24, 2014, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Hi All, I only just realized that there was a layout available for the Landfall 38 that had a U-shaped galley, more interior woodwork and most impressively, a separate shower. I've been discussing our needs with the admiral and we're in agreement on the requirement for a separate shower so the Landfall has now captured our attention. Looking at boats on yachtworld it appears that only LFs made after 82 had the separate shower, is that true or was it a layout that was always available? Our 32 doesn't have a shower and the head is tiny. I couldn't really imagine taking a shower in there at all. Showers are probably a point of interest when you're swimming in salt water every day??? Seems that the LF also carries over 100 gallons of fresh water .. having never showered on a boat I don't know if this is enough for a rinse off every day? How often are people showering with fresh water when away in remote anchorages in the Caribbean? Or other warm climates? I have no experience here. I also wanted to ask the owners of the LF 38s which layout you have and what you like about it, and what you don't like about it? Have you done much long term cruising or living aboard? Wally, I've read most of your articles and I know you installed the U-shaped galley, I guess I assumed all Landfalls were that way. The landfalls are a good value. I laid out a bunch of options in the when to go cruising thread and one of them is certainly taking our boat up to Georgian Bay and keeping it there. A Landfall would serve well on Georgian Bay as well as being enough boat to do some long term cruising on. We haven't yet figured out how we're going to take off forever so it looks like that plan will have to wait a while. In the short term however, moving our boat to Georgian Bay is looking like a win/win in the short term. Stevesta Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering
Either soft soap or a decent bottle of body wash. Get one with a tropical scent. You'll think you're in the islands. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 1:58 PM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: you wrote: Doesnt the whole head get all soap scummy? Ha! You're obviously not a lazy bachelor. Hard soap leaves soap scum, and I haven't bought it in decades. Soft soap doesn't. So stop using hard soap at home and on the boat and get a pump bottle of soft liquid hand soap. These days you can buy huge refill packs that are environmentally correct. I haven't used shaving cream in 30 years. Why do you think they called it 'shaving soap' 100 years ago? Some Madison Avenue marketing firm created a market for shaving cream, and we've been throwing money away ever since. Just slap some soap on there and lather it up, and you're good to go! And actually I haven't used Shampoo in 30 years. Same story. No soap scum. It comes in all kinds of pretty scents, but the scent doesn't stick with you. I kinda like mango or strawberry. I recently picked up a refill pack that was called 'ocean' and had a picture of a starfish and clam on it. Hmm. I don't know if you've ever smelled dead clams and dead starfishes, and I haven't opened the bottle because I'm afraid. Wal ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising showering
At the behest of the Admiral, I installed a shower wand holder in the overhead of the head. She can now stand under it and shower without having to hold it. Simple but great upgrade. Got it an an RV store for 7 or 8 bucks. Shower wand has integral on/off valve. Made for HUGE deposit in the emotional bank. We used a sun shower for years and didn't mind that. Our shower drains to the bilge. We pour scented bilge cleaner down the shower pan drain after each shower and thoroughly clean the bilge every 4-6 months or so. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 2:36 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: That's all great feedback. Thanks everyone. Not as dire as I imagined. Our 32 doesn't have the extend-a-shower faucet. I just installed a nice new single temp faucet last year to replace the foot pump that was there. Complete overhaul of the freshwater system and the first time we have used it since buying the boat. Same with the head for that matter. We have the floor pan/shower sump .. no pump however. Wally, you should write a book. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 3:14 PM, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.comwrote: Either soft soap or a decent bottle of body wash. Get one with a tropical scent. You'll think you're in the islands. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 1:58 PM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: you wrote: Doesnt the whole head get all soap scummy? Ha! You're obviously not a lazy bachelor. Hard soap leaves soap scum, and I haven't bought it in decades. Soft soap doesn't. So stop using hard soap at home and on the boat and get a pump bottle of soft liquid hand soap. These days you can buy huge refill packs that are environmentally correct. I haven't used shaving cream in 30 years. Why do you think they called it 'shaving soap' 100 years ago? Some Madison Avenue marketing firm created a market for shaving cream, and we've been throwing money away ever since. Just slap some soap on there and lather it up, and you're good to go! And actually I haven't used Shampoo in 30 years. Same story. No soap scum. It comes in all kinds of pretty scents, but the scent doesn't stick with you. I kinda like mango or strawberry. I recently picked up a refill pack that was called 'ocean' and had a picture of a starfish and clam on it. Hmm. I don't know if you've ever smelled dead clams and dead starfishes, and I haven't opened the bottle because I'm afraid. Wal ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Engine Gauges -- Are the marine ones somewhat universal?
Are engine gauges universal? Yes and no. The gauges are matched to the sending units. Unless it is a switch, that is, like a warning light that is either off or on, then you have to match the gauge to the output signal of the sender, be it volts DC or a resistance in ohms. If you can determine the output of the sender, then you can find a gauge, regardless of brand, etc. that should match. If you are going to abandon the old gauges, then you simply buy a matched gauge with a sending unit that fits the thread in the engine and replace both. If you are going to parallel the existing gauges, you need to match the existing sending unit to the new gauge. Of course you can always make sure you have really loud, working audible alarms to get your attention then just look at the existing gauges. Another alternative is to install an electronic and wireless engine monitoring system that works with a smartphone and look at it often. Then again, install a digital engine monitor like a Noland MD33 or such that will interface via NMEA 183 or 2000 with an upper level instrument system. I'm guessing there's a high end chartplotter can display engine data. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sat, Feb 22, 2014 at 11:26 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, Have a very busy Spring planned (assuming the snow ever melts) fixing up and customizing several areas of the Enterprise, including interior fusions, new port lights, electrical and the navigation station instruments. One of the ideas that I have been playing with in my mind is the location of the engine panel. As you can see in this picture ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/vodl9ii5jvb5jhv/enginecontrols-marked.png), the fuel gauge, ignition, tach and all other gauges are close to the cockpit deck and not in clear view when driving the boat -- and I admit, even at 47 years old, it's getting annoying to get on my knees or bend over every time I want to start the engine. Meanwhile, as shown with the red arrow on the picture, I have this vertical space on the side where a power switch, a light, and a few displays could be easily mounted (with great access to the back from the hatch below). So here's the question: Are displays such as the fuel gauge, tachometer and temperature, somewhat universal? All that's connected to the back of each of the gauges on the existing panel is wires. Could those wires be used to connect to new gauges and still function? Could I use something like these instead?? ( http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=436756catalogId=10001langId=-1storeId=11151storeNum=50366subdeptNum=50390classNum=50391#.UwjaEnmSQjU ) The Enterprise has a Universal Diesel in it, if that makes a difference. I'm no electrical engineer (skipped that class at Starfleet Academy), but am I missing something? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tee'ing a drain
Simply put, if you use a thru-hull that is open to the air, i.e. drain or scupper, for a high volume pump such as a wash down pump, the pump might suck air. Using a thru-hull that is not open to the air is better. If you use a sink drain, you can always put a stopper in it. Dennis C. On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 8:59 AM, Monty Schumpert jmschump...@verizon.netwrote: On my 34+, I have a T (Y-valve) in the line for the head bowl rinse intake. The pump is 2 feet downstream of the Y-valve, and the wash down line runs to a hose fitting on the bow. I use it primarily for washing the anchor and chain and deck cleanup around the anchor locker. Monty Scandia 1991 CC 34+ Annapolis, MD On Feb 18, 2014, at 1:06 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Hi all. Something I've been wanting a while is a washdown pump. We're on a mooring and the Toronto waterfront has a big spider problem. They crap all over the boat and leave black stains that are not easily removed. I like to keep my boat clean, hence the washdown pump. Lake water is just fine for this purpose. Not to mention that it'd be handy for it's designed purpose of washing down the chain and anchor when I use those. My question is: what is the best way to tee off a drain thru-hull? I'm thinking of the one under the dinette just aft of the head. Any reason that I don't want to do this? The output will be located close to the pumpout fitting on the starboard side deck. With the supplied 25' hose I'll be able to reach both the cockpit and the bow. Thanks, Steve www.sv-suhana.com Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Navigation Software
I have the SH cp190i on Touche'. It works for me. Dennis C. On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 10:57 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote: A Standard Horizon CP190i is available for less than $400, is waterproof and very reliable. See binnacle.com. Rich On Feb 19, 2014, at 11:53, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: The problem with an expensive helm mounted chart plotter is that it'll be old news in a few years. I'm not keen on spending ~$1500 or more on a chart plotter that will be old tech a few years from now. The iPad does so much more than navigation and is half the price. Sure, you can't read it easily in sunlight and it's not waterproof .. I can buy two iPads for the price of a raymarine plotter though. And I can take the iPad home and do all sorts of other things with it (primarily reading sailing magazines with Zinio) but I digress... I'de like to have a plotter, or some kind of multi-display unit at the helm but the prices on them aren't justified in my opinion. I am making the same thing using OpenCPN, a laptop and likely the Standard Horizon GX2200 for GPS and AIS info for the laptop. I already have the laptop, OpenCPN is free (and good!) so I'll only be spending the $350 on the AIS/GPS capable VHF radio vs $1500 for the same functionality at the helm? I can't justify that. If the technology was more modular, ie; the multidisplay had proper buttons and was really *JUST* a display and interface I'de be more interested. $1500 is a lot to spend on what is essentially a touch screen monitor .. except it's not is it? It's a raymarine/garmin/sh whizbang that isn't upgradable and will essentially suck compared to the new stuff in 5 years. Oh yeah,and charts are really expensive too. I happily paid $50 for navionics with charts for all of North America!!! Charts that get updated! Give me a waterproof, sun viewable iPad type device that uses open protocols that i can mount at the helm and I'de gladly spend $1500 on it. All I need is a display and an interface (buttons *and* touch, but don't take my buttons away). A computer is a computer is a computer There are nice plotters that I would like to have, it's just a question of value for the money. My boat bucks are needed elsewhere. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Roger Ware w...@qed.econ.queensu.cawrote: I have an iPad with Navionics but still find some shortcomings (a) the software doesn't do very much except tell you where you are (b) the iPad is not sunlight readable and (c) not waterproof. I am a bit surprised by the level of enthusiasm among this expert group - surely a purpose built helm mounted chartplotter still dominates? Cheers, Roger Ware Kingston, Ontario Waiting for Spring, or at least a break in this miserable Winter *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Andrew Burton *Sent:* February-19-14 9:50 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Navigation Software On deliveries I use every piece of equipment available. On my own boat, I have radar and an old plotter. On both the iPad is my go-to nav unit. On my boat, when I'm anchored and in my bunk I can instantly check whether I'm dragging with a glance at my iPad. On deliveries, when I'm off watch, I can check on what course and speed the watch on deck is able to maintain. I also carry a very basic hand-held GPS as back up and almost all boats I get on have at least a hard-wired GPS aboard and most have a plotter. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 9:43 AM, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com wrote: Andrew, I note your comment about using the ipad for navigation; do you also use some type of MPS or chartplotter on your personal boat? and if so, how is it used in conjunction with the ipad? On deliveries, do you use the boat's navigation equipment? Or just your personal ipad? Thanks Richard 1985 37 CB (sunshine and 60 degrees-snow is melting!) Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Wed, Feb 19, 2014 9:17 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation Software I use iNavX on my ipad and haven't actually pulled out a paper chart in more than two years (15,000 miles). I still carry the paper charts but haven't used 'em. It's the only plotter I use on my boat. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 8:43 AM, Nonpareil Racing t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote: Steve et al, Have you considered using an ipad with Navionics or another brand of software? Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead MA 81 days to launch 9 days to BVI cruise ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61
Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter
Just invite a friend who has a GPS or iPad. $0. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 11:51 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: As an aside, charging tablets and phones doesn't necessarily require an inverter. One could go with something like this: http://ca.binnacle.com/p8953/BLUE-SEA-1016-DUAL-USB-CHARGER-2-SOCKET-5V-2.1AMP/product_info.html Phones and tablets are DC, why convert and convert again? I'm looking into DC power supplies for the laptop as well. So far we haven't need AC but I do have a portable inverter on board just in case. I charge my tablet and phone off of the car stereo I installed at the nav station (it has a USB port). I'm considering that Blue Sea unit just as a nice to have but the project list is long with higher priorities. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 12:11 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: I used to have rolls of 2/0 gauge wire for hooking up batteries and inverters. We did a lot of 1500 watt units and a few 2500 and 3000 watt versions. I would suggest most boats carry two of them. 1000 watt units are cheap enough now at Worst Marine for heavy loads like shop vacs and other tools. Then get a second small inverter, say about 100-150 watts, for device charging needs. Large inverters are not efficient when powering tiny loads. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 11:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter My Admiral's hair dryer is 1875 watts on high power setting, so it would draw over 15 amps AC, and 170 amps DC to power the inverter. That needs like size 0 battery cables from the battery to the inverter? I just looked at the things I customarily run with my inverter. PC charger = 1.5 amps. Cell phone charger = .5 amps. Tablet charger = .3 amps. Portable AC fans (one of them is in the back room waiting to go back to the boat) = .5 amps each. The total current draw can add up pretty quickly. And as I said in an earlier post, providing 8 amps of AC would exhaust my 4 battery 460 AH house bank in less than 2 1/2 hours. My point is: figure out what you want to power with it and then chose your inverter and battery bank size accordingly. Rick Brass -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 3:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter When I used to be in that business we divided the AC panel into inverter and non-inverter sections to keep things like water heaters and battery chargers from running from the inverter. And no - you can't use a battery charger and an inverter to make a perpetual motion machine. Prime reason for inverter purchases back in the day used to be for hair dryers and blenders. Everyone wanted battery powered air conditioning, but few boats have the room for enough batteries to support it. Joe Della Barba Coquina CC 35 MK I ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Navigation Software
I'll wait until Navionics or somebody comes out with an app for Google Glassor have they? Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Just a note on AC brands. I started out with a Mermaid 16K reverse cycle unit I installed in1999. Sent it back to Mermaid for repair twice in 8 years. Switched to a Cruisair 16K reverse cycle 6 or 7 years ago and sold the Mermaid on eBay. The Cruisair has run without a burp since install. My buddy here is the go to guy for refrigeration and AC installs and repairs. He is the Cruisair factory repair tech for this area. He works on all brands, Mermaid, MarineAir, etc. He swears by Cruisair. Dennis C. On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:50 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote: Chuck Late to this party but- FWIW our 35-3 has a 9k unit from mermaid (they are local so no shipping...). It is intentionally undersized so we can run it off our Honda 2000 at anchor. Great once the sun goes down but it loses the battle mid afternoon in the 90's. The 9k also fit better in the hanging locker where we could vent easily to the v-berth and main cabin. Pay attention to the space needed for all the air handling bits and pieces. The larger the unit the larger those bits and pieces need to be. We spent the xtra for the reverse cycle. It adds a lot of flexibility though we consider 50's to be winter here. (sunny and headed to 80 today) Don't know about others but the thermostats we started with never lasted more than a year or 2- just not marine ready. So I finally just bought a Honeywell hockey puck and as it is all mechanical it has been just fine. Kim Brown Trust Me!!! 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Dwight, On the Gulf Coast, air conditioning is more than a luxury. Touche' is not just a daysailing vessel for me. It's a second home. I typically spend 30-60 nights per year on board. I will probably spend 1 or 2 nights on board this week. When it's 85-90F at sunset, you appreciate air conditioning. When the boat is in Mandeville, it's an hour away from the house. I can work all day, get a shower, go to the club, spend the night on the boat and work more the next day. Beats an hour drive each way. The Admiral and I use it on weekends not only to sail but as a base to socialize with our friends at the yacht club. It's particularly nice since electricity is included in my slip fee. When Touche' is in Pensacola, it's 4 hours from the house. It becomes a place for a long weekend. Paying $500 a month dockage to spend 3-4 days in Pensacola every weekend for a 2-3 months sure beats $100/night for a motel or condo. We enjoy the Pensacola Yacht Club when there. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 8:17 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: I appreciate the desire to be cool but I just can't see myself breathing processed air on a sailboat...around here when we say fresh air' we mean white caps are starting to form on the Bay, never really thought about the other more basic meaning of fresh air on my boat. Sailing is different nearly anywhere you go, that also makes it quite the learning experience -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Richard N. Bush *Sent:* February 17, 2014 10:01 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit Dennis, and others; apologize up front for being so basic, but never having had AC at all, I'm having difficulty following the thread; are these units being installed into the clothes locker just forward of the Main Settee? If not, then where? If so, what cutting or reconstruction has to be done to accommodate the units? Richard 1985 37 CB; Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2014 8:29 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit Just a note on AC brands. I started out with a Mermaid 16K reverse cycle unit I installed in1999. Sent it back to Mermaid for repair twice in 8 years. Switched to a Cruisair 16K reverse cycle 6 or 7 years ago and sold the Mermaid on eBay. The Cruisair has run without a burp since install. My buddy here is the go to guy for refrigeration and AC installs and repairs. He is the Cruisair factory repair tech for this area. He works on all brands, Mermaid, MarineAir, etc. He swears by Cruisair. Dennis C. On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:50 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote: Chuck Late to this party but- FWIW our 35-3 has a 9k unit from mermaid (they are local so no shipping...). It is intentionally undersized so we can run it off our Honda 2000 at anchor. Great once the sun goes down but it loses the battle mid afternoon in the 90's. The 9k also fit better in the hanging locker where we could vent easily to the v-berth and main cabin. Pay attention to the space needed for all the air handling bits and pieces. The larger the unit the larger those bits and pieces need to be. We spent the xtra for the reverse cycle. It adds a lot of flexibility though we consider 50's to be winter here. (sunny and headed to 80 today) Don't know about others but the thermostats we started with never lasted more than a year or 2- just not marine ready. So I finally just bought a Honeywell hockey puck and as it is all mechanical it has been just fine. Kim Brown Trust Me!!! 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Chuck, Suggest you look at a larger outlet grill for the cabin. But use a wye with an adjustment on the discharge of the AC. That way you can direct more air to the cabin or aft berth as needed. There will be times when you want a lot more cooling in the cabin than the aft berth. If you're using the round directional vents with shut off in the V-berth and aft berth, you can close them off to help direct more air to the cabin but the adjustable wye will help adjust the air flow overall. You'll only be using the berths at night after the sun goes down. You'll really want lots of cooling in the main cabin during the day and evening. Especially if you're cooking. Dennis C. On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 9:19 AM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Hi Richard, This may be more than you want to know? I'm installing a 120V 16000BTU reverse cycle AC unit that measures 20 x 14 x 14 without ductwork. I made up a cardboard mockup to those dimensions and will see where that fits best in my boat, before I cut anything. Been thinking about this for a while and the best spot for my boat looks like a hanging locker just forward of the mast where I can easily run duckwork in two directions. It's the only place where I can hang foulies, or store coats, so I'm looking at other options. My boat has pilot berths that would be good candidates, but the locker hides the system better. Under the vee berth is a candidate but would make duck runs longer and the return air lower. I'd rather keep the return off the floor and pull the hotter air from the ceiling. My unit requires three supply grilles, so a 4 round one will go to the Vee berth, a 6 x 6 square grille will serve the main cabin, and a 4 round will be ducted to the aft sleeping area. I may add a 4th 4 round grille which is recommended to improve performance. I can send you some pics separately, if interested? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ -- *From: *Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Monday, February 17, 2014 9:01:14 AM *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit Dennis, and others; apologize up front for being so basic, but never having had AC at all, I'm having difficulty following the thread; are these units being installed into the clothes locker just forward of the Main Settee? If not, then where? If so, what cutting or reconstruction has to be done to accommodate the units? Richard 1985 37 CB; Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2014 8:29 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit Just a note on AC brands. I started out with a Mermaid 16K reverse cycle unit I installed in1999. Sent it back to Mermaid for repair twice in 8 years. Switched to a Cruisair 16K reverse cycle 6 or 7 years ago and sold the Mermaid on eBay. The Cruisair has run without a burp since install. My buddy here is the go to guy for refrigeration and AC installs and repairs. He is the Cruisair factory repair tech for this area. He works on all brands, Mermaid, MarineAir, etc. He swears by Cruisair. Dennis C. On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:50 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote: Chuck Late to this party but- FWIW our 35-3 has a 9k unit from mermaid (they are local so no shipping...). It is intentionally undersized so we can run it off our Honda 2000 at anchor. Great once the sun goes down but it loses the battle mid afternoon in the 90's. The 9k also fit better in the hanging locker where we could vent easily to the v-berth and main cabin. Pay attention to the space needed for all the air handling bits and pieces. The larger the unit the larger those bits and pieces need to be. We spent the xtra for the reverse cycle. It adds a lot of flexibility though we consider 50's to be winter here. (sunny and headed to 80 today) Don't know about others but the thermostats we started with never lasted more than a year or 2- just not marine ready. So I finally just bought a Honeywell hockey puck and as it is all mechanical it has been just fine. Kim Brown Trust Me!!! 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo
Re: Stus-List 30A to 50A adaptors and air conditioners
I have encountered only one marina on the Gulf Coast that has 50A/250V for the primary service. That's Biloxi Small Craft Harbor. It's got a lot of commercial boats, shrimpers, large charter fishing vessels and the like. Its sister marina a mile away, Point Cadet, has a mix of 30A and 50 125V service. Point Cadet has more recreational vessels. The rest of the marinas I've frequented have either 30A/125V or 50A/125V. I'm thinking as long as you stay away from commercial harbors and use marinas that are primarily for recreational vessels, you'd only need the 50A/125V adaptor. I have a 50A/125V adaptor. Keep watching eBay. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 10:36 AM, cenel...@aol.com wrote: Hello all; My boat is set up with the common 30A plug/cord and this works for almost all the local marinas. However, occasionally I need to go into a slip that has only a 50A service. Sometimes the marina can supply a 'pigtail' that goes from the 50A plug to 2-30 A female plugs so I can use that set-up as well. Of course sometimes I am out of luck since they have no 'loaner' pigtails. Thought I would buy an adaptor that would have a female 30A receptacle and a 50A male plug. These are available on-line or West Marine but it appears that there are 2 different 50A male plugs, one for 125V service and another for 125/250V service and they are not interchangeable--the male plugs have different 'teeth' arrangements. My question is what is the most likely male plug that I should have on whatever I buy--the 50A/125V or the 50A/125/250V? Even the on-line versions are not inexpensive so I would like to buy the adaptor with the plug which is the 'most common 50A male. Or is this marina dependent? On the air conditioner topic, I have a 16K BTU unit from Dometic which has worked like a champ for the past 4-5 years. Like many CCs, room for duct work is somewhere between slim and none. Given the rather tight quarters on our racer/cruisers, I gave up on ducts and plumbed the single inlet through the shower wall blowing into the main cabin thru the open head door with a single return in the aft cabin right next to the unit. For my use (after race cool downs, occasional overnights on the boat at a marina, this 'duct-less' set-up works fine. YMMV, depending on how you use the boat of course. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom CC 36 XL/kcb cenel...@aol.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
I have a 16KBTU Cruisair on Touche' No doubt in my mind you need a 16KBTU if you're anywhere south of the Mason-Dixon line. It can hold mid 70's inside up to about 90F outside. Above that, it holds high 70's. That's with a head start. That is, if it was on all night and we got the boat temp down into the 60's prior to sun up. If you're starting mid-afternoon with outside temps in the 90's, you'll take a couple hours to break 80F inside. Also Touche's forward hatch is fiberglass, the midships and companionway hatches are white translucent. Clear hatches will let a lot more heat in. There's also the reliability factor. I'd rather have a larger unit humming merrily along than a smaller unit struggling and running more hours. One of the more overlooked factors is the size and run of the cooling water hose. Bigger is better. It WILL make a difference. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Hey listers, A friend says 12000BTU is the right size for my 36 footer. He speaks from experience so I value his opinion. But it's February, I got time, and I just want to be sure, cause a 16000 fits in the same space and I don't want to be undersized. FWIW, Defender is showing my unit on Miami Boat Show sale for the same price it appears in their 2014 catalogue. I love Defender, but damn, that's sleezy. I was hoping to get this installed before Spring, but guess I'll wait till their March Madness Sale? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Chuck, Couple more pointers. Check your shore power supply cable for size. Hopefully it's sized for the draw and run. Consider a nice stainless fitting for your discharge. I installed a plastic one when I put in the AC many years ago. When I had the boat painted 2 years ago, I changed all the above waterline fittings to stainless. They make the boat look s much better. I also installed a 1/4 turn valve on the discharge thruhull. Sometimes the AC cooling water intake gets plugged. On Touche', it's almost always something in the elbow on the intake thruhull. Never makes it to the strainer. I have a tee on the discharge of the pump where I can hook up a dock hose. I close the discharge valve and blow the pluggage out backwards through the intake. Then I close the intake, open the discharge and flush the line forward through the discharge. This lets me blow out any pluggage, sediment, etc. both forward and backwards. The AC has its own dedicated intake thruhull. It's faired for racing. Don't go small on the cool air discharge side. The more air you can move through the unit, the better it will cool. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 8:54 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Good point. For the last 10 years, I rarely plug in at the dock, except occassionally for the battery charger, or a laptop, or a TV to watch Americas Cup. I live 30 minutes away from the boat, so we would daysail and rarely overnight, and the boat is setup with solar fans and battery powered LED lights so could live comfortably on a mooring. Air Conditioning on the boat, will be a luxury I'm not used to, but a neccessity since I'm keeping her 3 hrs away this season and there I'll want to overnight on weekends and want all the rest of the electrics to work too. I'll have to check the amp draw on the other stuff and see what I can load up. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ -- *From: *j...@svpaws.net *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Sunday, February 16, 2014 8:57:36 PM *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit Just remember that what these things draw when running is very different than the load when the compressor first starts up. The 16 could easily draw north of 20 amps for a short period. Plan accordingly. Not sure what else you're running but 30 amps can go quick. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 16, 2014, at 8:35 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Thanks for all the great responses. Might get a generator onboard someday, but for now I'm planning on setting up our AC to run on shore power only. If we want AC, I'll plan to stay at a marina. The 16000 needs 12 amps, the 12000 needs 9 amps, 30% less power consumption but still too much for my battery banks. Josh, Shades for the windows are a great idea! My boat has none and suffers for it. Dennis, your reply reminds me how the water temperature effects capacity also. I plan to keep the boat in Annapolis this season, so I think I'll be ordering the 16k. Thanks all, Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ -- *From: *Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com *To: *CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent: *Sunday, February 16, 2014 6:54:12 PM *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit I have a 16KBTU Cruisair on Touche' No doubt in my mind you need a 16KBTU if you're anywhere south of the Mason-Dixon line. It can hold mid 70's inside up to about 90F outside. Above that, it holds high 70's. That's with a head start. That is, if it was on all night and we got the boat temp down into the 60's prior to sun up. If you're starting mid-afternoon with outside temps in the 90's, you'll take a couple hours to break 80F inside. Also Touche's forward hatch is fiberglass, the midships and companionway hatches are white translucent. Clear hatches will let a lot more heat in. There's also the reliability factor. I'd rather have a larger unit humming merrily along than a smaller unit struggling and running more hours. One of the more overlooked factors is the size and run of the cooling water hose. Bigger is better. It WILL make a difference. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Hey listers, A friend says 12000BTU is the right size for my 36 footer. He speaks from experience so I value his opinion. But it's February, I got time, and I just want to be sure, cause a 16000 fits in the same space and I don't want to be undersized. FWIW, Defender is showing my unit on Miami Boat Show sale for the same price it appears in their 2014 catalogue. I love Defender, but damn, that's sleezy. I was hoping to get this installed before Spring, but guess I'll wait till their March Madness Sale? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ ___ This List
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Can you put the cold air shipment on hold until July? Low 70's this week. Almost balmy. :) Dennis C. On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 6:02 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote: If it's helpful, we can send south a truckload of cold air. Any time:) Rich On Feb 16, 2014, at 19:54, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: I have a 16KBTU Cruisair on Touche' No doubt in my mind you need a 16KBTU if you're anywhere south of the Mason-Dixon line. It can hold mid 70's inside up to about 90F outside. Above that, it holds high 70's. That's with a head start. That is, if it was on all night and we got the boat temp down into the 60's prior to sun up. If you're starting mid-afternoon with outside temps in the 90's, you'll take a couple hours to break 80F inside. Also Touche's forward hatch is fiberglass, the midships and companionway hatches are white translucent. Clear hatches will let a lot more heat in. There's also the reliability factor. I'd rather have a larger unit humming merrily along than a smaller unit struggling and running more hours. One of the more overlooked factors is the size and run of the cooling water hose. Bigger is better. It WILL make a difference. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Hey listers, A friend says 12000BTU is the right size for my 36 footer. He speaks from experience so I value his opinion. But it's February, I got time, and I just want to be sure, cause a 16000 fits in the same space and I don't want to be undersized. FWIW, Defender is showing my unit on Miami Boat Show sale for the same price it appears in their 2014 catalogue. I love Defender, but damn, that's sleezy. I was hoping to get this installed before Spring, but guess I'll wait till their March Madness Sale? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drill another hole?
Steve, Holes in the hull aren't an issue as long as they're plugged. :) Seriously, there's no reason to avoid drilling holes in a hull if they are properly done and not too close to each other. Touche' has 11 thruhulls. No biggie. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 8:06 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Hi All, I installed depth and speed last season and I re-used the old through-hull transducer (no hole) and that works fine. However, that transducer is located under the starboard settee (the one forward of the nav station) and because it needs to be encased in mineral oil (or whatever it is in there) it's in a big piece of pipe right in the middle of that storage area. Needless to say, I don't use that storage area very much and I would like to. I've also had some problems with the depth instrument, sometimes it stops reading and I suspect the old cable or the transducer. My thinking is to drill a new hole in the hull up forward (currently it's next to the keel), and install the thru-hull that came with the unit and run the new wire. I'm hoping that this will achieve two things: better working depth instrument (with full range) a usable storage compartment (valuable on my small boat) Now my question to you all: is it worth the trouble? Drilling a hole in the boat is typically avoided and I already have the following holes: Engine raw water intake Two scuppers Galley drain Head drain Head intake Speed thru-hull That would make eight with a new hole. Too many? I've replaced almost all of the thru-hulls and original gate valves with new bronze thru-hulls and proper seacocks. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Drill another hole?
Many years ago my buddy salvaged a fairly new Morgan Out Islander 41. It had sunk off the coast in a storm. He had it on the hard in a boatyard in New Orleans when a hurricane was forecast to hit. The boat was gutted awaiting a new interior. He drilled several 6 inch holes in the hull to allow water to enter the boat in case the storm surge rose in the boatyard. After the storm, he patched the holes, finished out the interior and still has the boat today. Don't be afraid to drill holes in a boat. Dennis C. On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 9:15 AM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote: Re plugs: I've had 14 boats with many holes in each of them and have yet to have a problem other than stuck valves. I have installed many transponders in all kinds of boats, and I have yet to see a properly installed through hull transponder leak or cause any problems. I think the fears of drilling holes in hulls are unfounded. Just sayin'... Rich On Feb 13, 2014, at 11:04, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: That is correct, so it looks like an upside down mushroom when mounted in the silicone...use a good size glob of silicone and make sure there are no entrapped air bubbles in it before you attempt to mount the transducer...as the excess squeezes out some will rise to just about the edge of the mushroomI would guess the thickness of silicone between the transducer and the hull when you have it mounted won't be much but it must not contain entrapped air bubbles, just won't work well if it does...I simply held mine down hard for a few minutes not until the silicone had fully cured but within a day the silicone had cured. My boat was in the water when I did the mount so I was able to get instant feedback. Holes in the hull are the primary reasons we all carry plugs -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa *Sent:* February 13, 2014 10:51 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Drill another hole? Dwight, I believe the ST-60 uses the same transducer as the ST-40 that I have. Yours is designed to be used as a thru-hull correct? Steve www.sv-suhana.com/ Toronto On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 9:38 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Steve I have a Raymarine st60 system. The transducer is the ordinary thru hull unit. A few years back I cleaned the inside of the hull well with acetone in the spot I wanted to mount it and simply plunked it down in a big fresh glob of GE 100% silicone sealant...you have to plunk it down on a slant and hold it down for a while so as to squeeze out any air bubbles that might get entrapped. It has worked very well for the last 4 years. You may be able to do something like that with your new transducer when you mount it up forward and avoid making another hole. I plugged the hole that mine was in before I did the inside mount. Mine measures to 200 feet depth at least but in depths greater than 200 it fails to work so you do lose some range if that is important to you, 200 feet was fine for me. Anyway you could try it all out without drilling anymore holes and you could also mount the old one that way and avoid having to use mineral oil. -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa *Sent:* February 13, 2014 10:07 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Drill another hole? Hi All, I installed depth and speed last season and I re-used the old through-hull transducer (no hole) and that works fine. However, that transducer is located under the starboard settee (the one forward of the nav station) and because it needs to be encased in mineral oil (or whatever it is in there) it's in a big piece of pipe right in the middle of that storage area. Needless to say, I don't use that storage area very much and I would like to. I've also had some problems with the depth instrument, sometimes it stops reading and I suspect the old cable or the transducer. My thinking is to drill a new hole in the hull up forward (currently it's next to the keel), and install the thru-hull that came with the unit and run the new wire. I'm hoping that this will achieve two things: better working depth instrument (with full range) a usable storage compartment (valuable on my small boat) Now my question to you all: is it worth the trouble? Drilling a hole in the boat is typically avoided and I already have the following holes: Engine raw water intake Two scuppers Galley drain Head drain Head intake Speed thru-hull That would make eight with a new hole. Too many? I've replaced almost all of the thru-hulls and original gate valves with new bronze thru-hulls and proper seacocks. Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is
Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
Fred, I might have another order for you. By chance a client asked about tank monitors today. He wants ones that stick to the outside of a plastic tank. Tank-Edge does this? I'll go look after dinner. Dennis C. On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 12:49 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.netwrote: I've gotten some interest in the Tank-Edge Smart Mini monitor (one sensor), and will be putting in an order for at least three systems early next week. Any other takers? Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 12, 2014, at 11:35 AM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote: I've gotten set up with the Tank-Edge guys as a dealer. If anyone's interested in their monitors, I can get the Smart Mini with one sensor for $115 plus shipping, and the iSeries Standard (marine version with conformal coating) with three sensors for $185 plus shipping. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Swageless lifeline system
Some of you may already know this but Suncor has swageless lifeline fittings. Their Quick Attach fittings are reusable. You keep the fittings and just replace the wire every few years at your discretion. No special tools, just a few hand tools which you probably already have. Looks easy. Here's a site: http://www.unicornstainless.com/products/lifelines/?gclid=CMTZrKjlx7wCFUqSfgodRy0AUg Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List when to go cruising
I used to teach snow skiing here in Louisiana (Yeah, I know, how does one do that? Answer, a ski deck). Anyway, I had several adult students say if it wasn't for the kids, we'd move to Aspen. You're laying this off on the kids? They don't allow kids in Aspen? OK, children, where would YOU rather grow up, South Louisiana or Aspen, Colorado. DUH! What they were really saying was I don't want to give up my 6 figure job, work as a waiter, live in a trailer or small rental in order to live in Aspen. As I've said before, if you want the new Lexus, the big house, the country club membership, etc., keep working. If you're OK with driving a decade+ old car, living in a used single wide trailer, and drinking tap water instead of Pellegrino, you could have retired years ago! (No, I don't live in a trailer. That was my college years.) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List when to go cruising
Yup, like Jimmy says in Barometer Soup Follow in my wake You've not that much at stake For I have plowed the seas And smoothed the troubled waters Come along let's have some fun The hard work has been done We'll barrel roll into the sun Just for starters Just for starters Barometer's my soup I'm descended From a deckhand on a sloop I travel on the song lines That only dreamers see Not known for predictability Come and follow in our wake You've not that much at stake For we have plowed the seas And smoothed the troubled waters Come along let's have some fun Seems our work is done We'll barrel roll into the sun Just for starters Sail the main course In a simple sturdy craft Keep her well stocked With short stories and long laughs Go fast enough to get there But slow enough to see Moderation seems to be the key Constantly searchin' Oh, my eyes have seen some horizons And I've crossed the ocean For more than just thrills No, I'm not the first Won't be the last You lust for the future But treasure the past Follow in my wake You've not as much at stake For I have plowed the seas And smoothed the troubled waters Come along let's have some fun The hard work has been done We'll barrel roll into the sun Just for starters We'll barrel roll into the sun Just for starters We'll barrel roll into the sun Just for starters Dennis C. On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 12:12 PM, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com wrote: Dennis, you're sounding like a Buffett songI like it! Richard 1985 37 CB equipped with snow drifts and icicles... Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com To: CnClist CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2014 1:08 pm Subject: Stus-List when to go cruising I used to teach snow skiing here in Louisiana (Yeah, I know, how does one do that? Answer, a ski deck). Anyway, I had several adult students say if it wasn't for the kids, we'd move to Aspen. You're laying this off on the kids? They don't allow kids in Aspen? OK, children, where would YOU rather grow up, South Louisiana or Aspen, Colorado. DUH! What they were really saying was I don't want to give up my 6 figure job, work as a waiter, live in a trailer or small rental in order to live in Aspen. As I've said before, if you want the new Lexus, the big house, the country club membership, etc., keep working. If you're OK with driving a decade+ old car, living in a used single wide trailer, and drinking tap water instead of Pellegrino, you could have retired years ago! (No, I don't live in a trailer. That was my college years.) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Albumhttp://www.cncphotoalbum.comcnc-l...@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Cruising while you're young
Here's a site for some great cruising early in life: http://www.navy.com/ Worked for me! Got to see lots of tropical lands. Some were even friendly. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Fred, They're called Isotemp SPA models. Look here: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234308|2234310id=2357037 or here: http://www.indelwebastomarine.com/int/products/isotemp-water-heaters/new-spa/ Dennis C. On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 8:49 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.netwrote: Dennis -- what do they call these new heaters? I looked on their website and didn't see anything. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 10, 2014, at 1:17 PM, Gmail capt...@gmail.com wrote: Isotemp just introduced a new line of water heaters. Plastic outside but retained their dependable stainless tank. Reasonable price. I'm going to put one of the small ones in Touché' in the next year or two. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fuel tank
Are you opposed to a new tank? Granted, a pinhole leak on the top may not indicate more problems but it would make me think about the overall integrity of the tank. One of the first things I did when I bought Touche' was to replace the fuel tank. I replaced it again when I repowered to a diesel. Many tanks are standard sizes. Check the Moeller site to see if they have one that will fit. Then go shopping online for the best price. For instance, one to fit a 35-1 is $153 new and $131 used on Amazon. That seems like a cheap price for the peace of mind that the tank is good. One of our listers just replaced his tank for what I thought was a pretty decent price. Maybe he'll chime in. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.cawrote: Well, it was a cold weekend, but I wanted to check the boat, make sure there was no water freezing up inside, and if I'm going to drive down there then I may as well get at a job or 2. Stripped off the last bit of upholstery - now I can get all the cushions re-covered Then I tried to remove the fuel tank. Let's just say the tank was not in total agreement with my plan, and as such the process was a little more violent that I had hoped for - I had to cut the inlet and vent pipe (but I figure that 1986 hoses are likely due for replacement - so it was not a huge loss. Once I had everything disconnected I lifted the mostly empty tank out of the lazerette - and saw a small pin-hole leak stream out on the top of the tank. Right where one of the metal tank strap tighteners was resting - clearly the contrasting metal had corroded a small hole. Otherwise the tank looks good. Just dirty. I need to clean the tank up to get a better look - but I'm wondering how this should be repaired. Given I wanted to clean out the tank and install an access hatch (but near the other end of the tank) - should I get a small patch weld? Or did I read somewhere that a fuel tank can be lined with epoxy. (http://www.sailfeed.com/2012/07/one-way-to-repair-leaking- aluminum-fuel-tanks/) I feel like I could even just drill out the hole, tap it and screw in a small bolt with a gasket. I'm stiff after a few hours in the lazerette fighting with the fuel tank - but the new boat shine has not worn off yet! Mark -- - Dr. Mark Bodnar B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C) Bedford Chiropractic - There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Virtual Aids to Navigation
I'll look for them while sailing my virtual boat. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 9, 2014 at 8:52 AM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: Very interesting concept, that is now becoming a reality. When is a buoy not a buoy? When it's a virtual buoy! http://gcaptain.com/uscg-ais-aton-navigation/ Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators
Josh, Look hard at ultrasonic level sensors that mount in the top of the tank. Pricey but possibly worth it. Also, I seem to recall some sensors that mount on the outside of plastic tanks. Maybe 3-4 per tank. They are contactless. That is, they don't make contact with the liquid so they are not susceptible to scale build up, etc. A Hunter I work on occasionally has some. They seem to work OK. Sorry I don't have any vendors or references for you. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Fri, Feb 7, 2014 at 5:34 PM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote: Anybody have any thoughts on holding tank and freshwater tank level indicators? I'd like to see about possibly getting the original control panel and indicators working. It looks like 4 wires. Maybe 1 wire for V+ and the other 3 for level referance (1/4, 1/2, 3/4). They seem to just make continuity through the water. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.comwrote: Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John Russo *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fw: 35-3 ice Box
I used two part pour foam between hull and ice box on my 35-1. Depending on its density, pour foam has a few times times the R value of spray foam. Pour foam comes in various densities, 2 lb, 4 lb, etc. Some are USCG approved, some are not. Pour foam requires a bit more care and planning than spray foam but may be worth the effort. Pour foam will get into nooks and crannies that spray foam will not. Either foam requires room to expand or it will damage the ice box. Pour foam comes in various densities, 2 lb, 4 lb, etc. Some are USCG approved, some are not. Two part pour foam can be purchased from fiberglass, insulation and industrial suppliers for less than marine suppliers. I bought mine from Branton Industries. Here's more info: http://www.fibreglast.com/product/2_Lb_Polyurethane_Mix_and_Pour_Foam_24_25/Foam Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 3:08 PM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote: Jake Thanks for the photos. I'm sure my set up is the same. Has anyone in the group tried to apply spray foam in the voids between the icebox and stove and icebox and hull. Thanks Mike S/V Persuasion CC 37 Keel/CB Long Sault *From:* Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net *Sent:* Thursday, February 6, 2014 6:12 AM *To:* d.ve...@bellaliant.net ; 'Richard N. Bush' bushma...@aol.com ; 'Doug Allardyce' doug.allard...@att.net ; 'Joel Aronson'joel.aron...@gmail.com; 'Graham Collins' cnclistforw...@hotmail.com ; 'RAYMOND SHIBE'rsh...@optonline.net; 'Pete Shelquist' pete.shelqu...@comcast.net ; 'D Harben'sailadventu...@rogers.com; 'Persuasion' persuasio...@gmail.com *Subject:* 35-3 ice Box Guys, Attached are an assortment of pics from my refrigeration installation. From my cursory examination of the ice box, it is clear that some insulation could be added without too much trouble or expense. Spray foam insulation with a long nozzle would work. Any insulating value that you add will decrease the electrical demand of the system. The wall adjoining the stove could have a couple of holes drilled into it for to insert the foam nozzle, as well as a couple of holes under the sink. The lines from the condenser to the evaporator go right through the bulkhead and come out inside the ice box. They are sealed with plumbers putty, which came with the Adler/Barbour kit. Any questions, let me know. The unit has been in service for about eight years now with no problems at all. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *Midnight Mistress* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton Va* [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com image001.png___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
It would definitely weaken the stern rail both when open and when closed. However, when closed it would only move a slight bit. A lot would depend on whether your pulpit has a second rail. Most CC's I've seen only have a single rail. The easy way to add a gate is to cut the top rail and add a stanchion cap with eye on each cut side. Be sure to install a locking screw tapped into the cap. You could then make a lifeline gate with a toggle on one end and pelican hook on the other to stretch between the eyes. You could slide a lifeline cushion on the gate to lean against while driving. If you were concerned about strength, add a stanchion brace on either side if practical. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 12:18 PM, Ron Kaye ronkaye...@gmail.com wrote: Has anyone put a hinged gate in the stern rail so that one can clamber up the swim ladder and not have to climb over the rail? I'm thinking this might make the stern rail too weak when the gate is open. Has this been discussed? Anybody bothered by this? -- Ron Lisa 35-3 Mr. Bop ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Topsides and bootstripe painting - a long story with a moral
Just relating my experience painting Touche' a couple years ago. Touche' has always been on Lake Pontchartrain and is/was a boat well known in the area. A couple older sailors told me that one of the previous owners had hired the local boatyard's painter over a weekend to paint the boat. Rumor was they careened Touche' alongside a bulkhead by putting an anchor in the grass out from the bulkhead and heeling it with a halyard and winch. The painter worked from a dinghy. The next day, they spun the boat and painted the other side. No one seemed to know what paint was used. The most common guess was Imron. I originally thought about painting the boat myself. The boat was in a yard where a contractor who had just done the bottom. The painting contractor had looked at the existing topsides paint and commented that something didn't look right about it. It had numerous fisheyes, small pinhead sized holes in several areas. He said that could be due to several underlying causes; improper surface preparation, improper solvent use, etc. He is well respected. I listened to him and decided to let him spray the boat after I prepped it. He was great to work with and offered a lot of good advice. I opted to use red Awlcraft 2000 paint which is somewhere north of $200/gallon. We didn't want to screw this project up at those prices. He suggested I prep the old paint by scrubbing it with Comet with a DA polisher then sanding with 320 grit. I dutifully took 2 days to do it. We then taped off a test area. He had just sprayed another boat with white Awlcraft 2000 and came over to shoot the test area. Almost immediately after he applied the Awlcraft, the existing paint began to peel up, the white Awlcraft blended with Touche's existing red to form an awesome pink and some of the new Awlcraft simply beaded up on top of the existing paint. Not good. I spent 2 more days with a Hutchins sander removing whatever the heck paint(s) was on the boat. I went through at least two layers of old paint before turning it over to the contractor. He applied 3 coats of high build primer before he felt comfortable enough to apply the Awlcraft. He said the first coat still seemed to react with the underlying paint(s). In the end, the boat looks fabulous. Moral of the story: Don't assume you can just spray on some paint. You need to either know what paint you're covering or do a lot of prep and use a really good primer. Also, if you need to sand above the waterline, consider using a Hutchins sander. A disc sander requires a very, very steady hand to not rock it and leaves gouges. Even the smallest gouge or depression will show when using high gloss paint. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
