Re: Stus-List Winch grease

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I also prefer a teflon or silicone based grease. I avoid lithium based grease 
since they seem to dry out and get hard after a while.

Don Wagner 
Der Baron
C&C 41 CB


From: Chris Graham via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2018 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chris Graham 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease

Oh... that sounds good. The Pawlls are rusted so I need to replace all 8 
anyway. May buy the kit and use the cheaper stuff for yearly servicing. Took me 
almost 4 hours per winch to get the sticky hard varnish that had developed!! 
What a mess. They look and feel brand new now!  

Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Sunday, November 4, 2018, 8:45 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  There is a very similar teflon based grease used for pool valves, and if you 
have a pool store near you it will be easier to find and probably cheaper.



  Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

   Original message 
  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
  Date: 11/4/18 8:35 AM (GMT-05:00) 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Marek Dziedzic  
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease 

  Good to have on the boat. This is what Peggie Hall recommends for lubricating 
the head pump, as well.



  A small tube is about $7 (CAD) at Home Hardware (special order). Readily 
available in any h/w store S of the border.



  Marek

  Ottawa, ON



  From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chris Graham via 
CnC-List
  Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 05:58
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Chris Graham 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winch grease



  I’ve never heard of it! Good price!

  Chris


  Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

  On Sunday, November 4, 2018, 5:53 AM, billbruce--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I use superlube. A local supplier has it for about $15 Cdn full size 
cartridge. It's a clear synthetic grease and it is what the Anderson winch 
company uses at the factory. 


Bill Bruce 
Landfall 38 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Annapolis-Mid Atlantic Rendezvous Next Year

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I’ll second St Michaels. It has better accommodations for tourists, more shops, 
more restaurants, the best museum, a nice hotel, better choice of marinas, etc

Don Wagner
Der Baron
C&C 41CB

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2018 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Annapolis-Mid Atlantic Rendezvous Next 
Year

And…….my wife we have to go there. 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2018 2:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Annapolis-Mid Atlantic Rendezvous Next Year

 

We also have a Classic Car Museum. We could have the event on the weekend of 
Oysterfest (which is when it was this year – the reason I couldn’t attend as I 
was busy there). We also have a microbrewery, two winery tasting rooms and a 
bunch of shops. 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2018 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Annapolis-Mid Atlantic Rendezvous Next Year

 

  If we do Saint Michael’s next year we will have the Maritime Museum to 
explore and a distillery in town to explore 2 or 3 times J

  http://lyondistilling.com/

   

  http://cbmm.org/

   

   

   

  Joe Della Barba

  Coquina

  C&C 35 MK I

 

 




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Re: Stus-List C&C ownership

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I’ve been a proud C&C owner for 45 yrs. I bought my 1st C&C, a 30 Mk 1, hull # 
100  at the 1973 Annapolis Boat show.We named her Red Baron and raced/cruised 
her for 13 years with my family. She was a terrific racer/cruiser!!
As the family grew up and kids wanted to bring friends, we decided to step up 
and purchased a 1986 C&C 41 CB, naming her Der Baron. We have now raced/cruised 
her for 32 years on the Chesapeake Bay.

I have a room full of trophies and photos, a garage full of old sails, and many 
fond memories and tales to share with family and crew. 
They both have been wonderful family boats and I’ve never regretted our choice.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
hull # 93 


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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

On my C&C 41, it was not necessary to drop the rudder.
The yard removed the cutless bearing 1st with their special bearing press tool.
Once the bearing was removed, there was enough slop to slide the 1 1/8 inch 
shaft past the rudder for easy removal.
I replaced both the shaft and the bearing.



Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron___

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Re: Stus-List Mast Rake for C&C 41

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

On our C&C 41, Der Baron we set it up with about 1 degree of rake. The major 
problem was dealing with the keel bolt at the mast step. We had to cut back 
a small amount of the mast at the base to allow for the base to move 
forward. We also adjusted the shims at the deck to put some slight pre-bend.


We did it in 1986,some I'm not sure what else we may have done. Since then, 
we mostly use the hydraulic backstay , the baby stay, or the runners to 
adjust the mast bend and the sail shape.


Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

-Original Message- 
From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2018 3:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Rake for C&C 41

For my 42 (obviously a different boat), we looked at the original C&C design
drawing and assumed that the boat was drawn with the rake the designers
intended.  I forget what the degree of rake came out to be, but it wasn't
much.  To implement it in the field, I hung a bucket of water from the main
halyard and raked the mast back until the halyard near deck level was the
calculated distance from the mast.  Once the mast was positioned where I
wanted it, I installed a Spartite plug.  I used leftover Spartite to make
chocks for the mast step base.  Not high-tech, but seems to have worked out
okay.

-Original Message- 
From: Doug Allardyce via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2018 10:03 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Doug Allardyce
Subject: Stus-List Mast Rake for C&C 41

I'm looking for advice on what mast rake works best for a C&C 41

Doug Allardyce
C&C 41 BULLET
Detroit
~_/)~


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Re: Stus-List mystery item

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

It’s for the boom vang, or preventer with a roller furler boom. You are holding 
it upside down. You slide it on to the boom, and attach a block and tackle to 
the shackle. The other end of the block and tackle is fastened to the toe rail 
or the mast base, as needed. 

I had one for my C&C 30 in the 70’s. My 30 had a roller furler main, and this 
gadget worked very well whenever you need to roll in a furl. Of course, the C&C 
30 Mk 1 was a super stiff boat, so we rarely used itin the furling 
configuration. II t did get a lot of use as a preventer however.
I owned a !973 C&C Mk1 hull # 100 “Red Baron” from 1973 through 1985 and raced 
and cruised her a lot on the Chesapeake Bay.
In 1986 I replaced her with a C&C 41 CB hull #93, “Der Baron”, and raced and 
cruised her a lot on the Bay too.
By 2016 following some serious surgery. I gave up racing and but still do some 
cruising.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Steve Staten via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Steve Staten 
Subject: Re: Stus-List mystery item

OK, I’m just GUESSING but you have it upside down. It slides on a pipe and is 
used to hang your drink off the little clevis. The four nylon wheels will allow 
the drink to stay steady as the boat rocks. Did I win a prize?

 

Steve Staten

C’Est La Vie

C&C 26

Langley, OK USA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T Smyth via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 2:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth
Subject:  Stus-List mystery item

 

 

I’m trying to determine the use of an item I found on a recently purchased 1974 
C&C 30.

 

It’s probably obvious but I just can’t quite identify it.

See photo at

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bUs1Qcb3DdsuaFz89

 

 

Tks

Tom

 

 

 




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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I use the rubber cane (or chair) tips as well, but before installing them, I 
insert a fender washer of the same size.
The fender washer protects the rudder from the sharp edges on the feet of 
the ladder. The rubber tips seem to last longer with the fender washer 
protection.


You might try that trick.

Don Wagner
Der Baron
C&C 41 CB

-Original Message- 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 8:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

Hello again,

are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the boarding
ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't really last out in
the elements.  And with a new paint job I'm looking for something better
to use.

Does anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Danny
mattapoisett, ma


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Re: Stus-List How many shaft zincs?

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

The acceleration of the zinc corrosion can be due to a number of things. The 
galvanic isolator can help if the marina has a grounding issue, and will fix 
that. Your problem is more likely due to dissimilar metals on your boat 
immersed in salt water.
Many years ago I had a C&C 30 Mk I, and after 4-5 years of use, it started 
consuming several zincs in a season. I purchased a corrosion meter, made dozens 
of measurements, and realized it was due to the existence of the lead keel in 
combination with the lightning ground.
At the end of the season, I had her hauled, stripped the keel paint, and 
barrier coat, replaced the barrier coat, the anti-fouling paint and never had 
another problem. If you think about it, a battery often is made of lead in 
combination with an electrolyte (eg, salt water) and other metals. By 
electrically connecting the lead keel and mast to the engine, shaft, zincs, 
thru hulls, etc,  you have created a short-circuited battery, and accelerating 
the corrosion or the least noble of the metals—in this case the zinc. I was 
able to isolate the connections, and measure the open circuit voltage and the 
currents when shorted. Sure enough, the voltage was ~ 0. 5, and the current was 
~ 100 ma. Not very much, but enough to eat away a zinc on 27/7 basis. My 
conclusion was that the barrier coat had isolated the keel for the early years, 
but after a while, it broke down, and exposed more lead to the sea thereby 
increasing the zinc cunsumption.
It worked for me, and you might want to investigate.

Don Wagner previously C&C 30 owner, now,
C&C 41CB
DerBaron
West River MD

From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2018 6:00 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: kelly petew 
Subject: Stus-List How many shaft zincs?

I have always installed two [2] shaft zincs, at the beginning of sailing season.

For last two seasons, I've seen their deterioration accelerate in my marina, 
despite having a galvanic isolator on  board.



I know I need to find the stray current source.  That said, any thoughts on 
adding a third zinc as a measure of "insurance"?



thanks,



Pete W.

Siren Song

C&C30mkII

Deltaville, Va. 








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Re: Stus-List Who made our masts?

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I don’t know about a lot of our masts, but mine on C&C 41 CB, 1986, hull # 93 
was built by Cinkel Spars in NOL. I met with Jim? Cinkel at a boat show or two, 
and did get some parts and drawings from him a long time ago. They also made 
some the steering systems. They were out of the business at the time, but Jim? 
still had parts in a garage 
My steering, system, wheel, etc was produced by Edson

I think Rob McLaughlin of South Shore facilitated part of my purchase.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 2:07 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Who made our masts?

Hank:

What about the two-piece mast for the Custom 42?  Same answer?


From: henry evans via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2018 1:46 PM
To: Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List 
Cc: henry evans 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Who made our masts?

Chances are pretty good it was made in C&C's mast shop at NOTL.  If memory 
serves, we were building most of our masts there in the late 70's for Canadian 
built boats in that size range. 

Hank Evans

On Thursday, March 8, 2018, 12:31:15 PM CST, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List 
 wrote: 


Anyone know off the top of their head who made masts for the ‘76 C&C 33?  Thx.  
Barbara Hickson
“Flight Risk” C&C33-1
Charleston, SC



Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Wednesday, March 7, 2018, 11:26 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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  Today's Topics:


1. Re:  [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level (Richard)

2. Re:  [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level (Randy Stafford)

3. Re:  [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level (Richard)

4. Re:  water level (Chuck Gilchrest)

5.  (no subject) (Bill Findley)



  --


  Message: 1

  Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2018 12:01:10 -0500

  From: Richard 

  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL]  Re:  water level

  Message-ID: <8ee49429-697c-43e6-8f0c-aedda9e15...@aol.com>

  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


  Yeah, we had five feet of water-and mud-in the 2nd floor of our house 


  Sent from my iPhone


  > On Mar 7, 2018, at 11:42 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  > 

  > With a 24 foot tide here, only the roof of my house would be showing and my 
house is 2 stories.

  >  

  > Joe

  > Coquina

  >  

  > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
bushmark4--- via CnC-List

  > Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2018 11:10 AM

  > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  > Cc: bushma...@aol.com

  > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List water level

  >  

  > That's wild, I'd like to see thathere on the Ohio river, we are waiting 
for our docks to show out of the river from a major flood event...my dock was 
under 24 feet of water...( boat was hauled and on high ground)!

  >  

  > Richard

  > s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River Mile 596;

  > 

  > Richard N. Bush  

  > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

  > Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

  > 502-584-7255

  >  

  >  

  > -Original Message-

  > From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 

  > To: cnc-list 

  > Cc: Gary Nylander 

  > Sent: Wed, Mar 7, 2018 10:54 am

  > Subject: Re: Stus-List water level

  > 

  > Amen, the docks are under water in St. Michaels as well. It?s amazing that 
the wind (plenty of wind) can blow that much water out of the Bay. And then 
watch it come back in.

  >  

  > Gary

  > 15 miles south

  >  

  > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
Barba, Joe via CnC-List

  > Sent: Wednesday, March 7, 2018 10:41 AM

  > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

  > Cc: Della Barba, Joe 

  > Subject: Stus-List water level

  >  

  > We went from a couple of days where the lifelines were lower than the pier 
to the pier being underwater now!

  >  

  > Joe

  > Coquina

  >  

  > ___

  > 

  > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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  > 

  > ___

  > 

  > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  > 

  -- n

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous UPDATE Oct 26, 27, 28

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

If you have your own car, you may want to try Bayfields B &B in Harwood MD
It’s about a 30 min drive to Annapolis, with a beautiful old Victorian Home on 
the West River.
It’s managed by a family of sailors with lots of racing experience. Lots of 
folks visit there during 
boat show time or Naval Academy events
The Pirates Cove Inn and restaurant and marina in Galesville also has a few 
motel room the also are on the West River, where you could also berth your boat

Just a thought if you’d rather not stay in Annapolis

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River, MD


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 9:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson ; Jack Fitzgerald 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous UPDATE Oct 26, 27, 28

The OCallahan hotel is being refurbished as a Hilton Garden Inn.  About 20 
minute walk to the dock.

On Tue, Feb 20, 2018 at 11:47 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  http://www.flaghouseinn.com/



  30 second walk J



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jack 
Fitzgerald via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2018 11:20 AM
  To: C&CList 
  Cc: Jack Fitzgerald 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous UPDATE Oct 26, 27, 28



  All



  My wife & I will attend and will by car, too far North to sail our old boat 
in the late fall.



  Kindly recommend a couple of decent B&B's in the nearby area so that I can go 
ahead and make the reservations.



  Thank you




  Best regards,
  Jack and Beth Fitzgerald

  HONEY (C&C 39TM)

  US12788

  Savannah, GA USA



  This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
  Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
  privileged.  If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified
  that any retention, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
  communication is strictly prohibited.  Please reply to the sender that you
  have received this message in error, then delete it.  Thank you





  On Tue, Feb 20, 2018 at 10:55 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Here are some events happening in Annapolis during the month of October of 
anyone is interested.




https://www.google.com/search?q=rams+head+annapolis&oq=rams+head+&aqs=chrome.1.0l2j5j69i57.6926j0j7&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=tlexp&htiq=Annapolis%20October%20events



On Feb 19, 2018 8:58 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

  Ok, dates for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous are all set.  The 
weekend of October 26,27,28.  Carmel and I will be available for multiple days 
on either side of the weekend and will be doing some Bay sailing in local areas 
- generally just hanging out if anyone wants to arrive early or stay late.  We 
have 20 responses who are attending and 10 coming by boat.  There is roughly a 
50/50 mix of those staying on moorings vs slips.  I can say that having been to 
Edd Schillay's NE Rendezvous it is great to tour everyone else's boats so I 
would encourage all the boaters to plan at least one day to get a slip and then 
stay on a mooring for any other nights if desired.



  The Annapolis Harbor Master needs all registrations in by March 31 in 
order to coordinate getting all the boats together.  You can negotiate your 
arrival and departure dates, power and water requirements, or mooring ball 
arrangements directly with the Harbor Master - Beth.  Let her know that you are 
attending the 2018 Mid-Atlantic C&C Rendezvous.  They have a liberal and 
comprehensive cancelation policy posted on the registration form so register 
now even if there is a chance that you may cancel.



  https://www.annapolis.gov/165/Harbormaster



  https://www.annapolis.gov/1338/Dock-Reservation-Request



  As for our land based visitors the waterfront Marriott has an absolutely 
perfect location, however when I priced rooms they were exorbitant.  Y'all 
might have different luck when/if you call.



  https://g.co/kgs/V14Gvi



  Instead of the Marriott, an alternative might be the Historic Inns of 
Annapolis.



  https://g.co/kgs/eL7534



  Both hotels are centrally located and well within walking distance to the 
docking location.



  I have been approached regarding a possible sailing race which might 
include a half-hull model of the winner's boat as a prize!  I need volunteers 
to help arrange any of these add-ons.  I can act as a central coordinator but I 
can't manage it all.  Some other ideas might be a Naval Academy tour, group 
dinner, escape room dinner, shopping trip, swag bags, demonstrations, day sail 
to another port, etc.  If you come up with an idea and want to organize it then 
go ahead.  Uber and Lift are available and Carmel and I will probably arrange 
for one of our cars to be available for anyone who needs.





  Warm regards, 



  Josh and Carmeletta Muckley 

  S/V Sea Hawk 

  1989 C&C 37+

  Solomons, MD

Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

We had an abandoned derelict boat in our area for a long time. Neighbors, 
Community Associations, DNR police, etc were unable or unwilling to get rid of 
it. No one could decide on whose responsibility it was, or what laws applied. 
There was quite a bit of discontent. Eventually some one decided that they 
would cut it loose, and tie it to an official navigational buoy. I suspect that 
it was done in the middle of a moonless night It was reported to the USCG, and 
within a day or two they removed it and it was never seen again!

Something about it being illegal to tie up to a navigational buoy, I suppose.

Don Wagner 
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2017 9:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jack Brennan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

Sounds like an abandoned vessel to me. It is common in Florida for people with 
decrepit boats in the water to simply anchor them and row away to avoid paying 
salvage costs. Of course, they scrape off all identifying numbers.

Is there an anchorage nearby? Any tackle onboard? I’ve heard of people moving 
abandoned boats after being frustrated by the unwillingness of the authorities 
to deal with the problem. Maybe you use an old Danforth from your garage with 
some rusty chain and 100 feet of scrap rode.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.


From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2017 10:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mooring Rights -- Any "Sea Lawyers" on the List?

Edd, I hate to say it but you’re involved in a bucket of s … well, let’s say a 
can of worms.

 

Some states have abandoned and derelict boat laws, most don’t seem to. And 
local laws are sometimes conflicting and hard to find. (For example, the local 
regulations in New Bern, NC are part of the local zoning code and Oriental, NC 
– where there are more sailboats than people – has no regulation at all.) I 
wouldn’t expect too much from the USCG because they seem to be pretty 
disinterested unless the offending boat is a hazard to navigation. I’m rapidly 
gaining expertise on this because of growing problems we’re having in the 
harbor an Washington, NC, where I manage the municipal marina.

 

In North Carolina you can send a registered letter to the last owner of record 
for the offending boat. If he doesn’t claim the letter in 30 days, or if he 
gets the letter but does nothing, you can go to the State and apply for title 
to the vessel, which takes another couple of weeks. Then you can move, sell, 
dispose of, or scrap the boat because it is yours.

 

I’d start by contacting the state agency that handles registration of boats in 
the state where the boat is currently. They can tell you what your options are.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 



 Virus-free. www.avast.com  




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Re: Stus-List Main sheet chafes

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Brian

I can’t tell from the photo, the direction of the boom, eg, is the gooseneck on 
the left or the right of the photo?
Maybe the exit block is mounted in the wrong direction? I know it is a 
stupid question, but maybe some how it got turned around.

It looks like some serious chafing!

Don Wagner
C&C 41CB
Der Baron
West River MD


From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2016 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Main sheet chafes

Brian, 

How old and large is that line?  Is it too big for the sheave?  If it is 
original to the boat, it may just be time to replace it.

Joel

On Sat, Oct 8, 2016 at 9:17 AM, Brian Fry via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I believe I posted about this before but I have some more info. 
  I have a 37/40xl. 1993.
  Where the mainsheet enters the boom there is chafing. It appears to be 
happening because of the angle going into the sheave block that is screwed into 
the boom.
  As far as I know there are no modifications to the boom or traveler. Can 
anyone show what theirs looks like?
  A link to pictures:
  
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1360331584029782&id=1011224262273851



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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551



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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt weeping

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I have experienced keel bolt weeping on my C&C 41 early on. After some detailed 
efforts, I determined that is was the result of improperly drilled bolt holes 
in the hull/keel stub. When I removed the nut, and the washer from the leaking 
bolt, It was obvious. C&C had drilled a bolt hole in the hull/stub, but it 
wasn’t lined up with the keel bolt, so they drilled a 2nd hole to accommodate 
the keel bolt. This left a gap with only about 1/2 of the hole filled by the 
keel bolt.  They tried to fill the gap with butyl. It worked for a while, but 
eventually weeped.

My fix was simple. After removing the nut, and the washer, I carefully cleaned 
out the partial hole, filled it with West Epoxy with filler, then re-bedded it 
with butyl, replaced the washer, replaced the nut, re-torqued it and never had 
it leak or weep again. That was about 20 years ago.

Essentially my problem was a manufacturing problem with C&C.

Maybe yours is a simple thing like that

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD

From: Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2016 12:48 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Barbara L. Hickson 
Subject: Stus-List Keel bolt weeping

Hi Listers,
  I'm having trouble searching the archives for info on the possible repair 
scenarios for a keel bolt seeping seawater.  It's not much, just slightly 
weeping.  I know this has been written about extensively but not finding it on 
this forum.  The worst case scenario is the keel must be dropped and rebedded 
and I know someone on the list has done this before.  What is the bedding 
compound of choice?  Is there any other, as in cheaper, scenario that's viable? 
 The tops of the bolts and their nuts look in good shape and there's no 
rust/corrosion on what I can see.  It's the part that I can't see that I'm 
nervous about. I will get the boat hauled to better check it out and look at 
the options, but considering her age (she turns 40 next month), have to 
consider the options. I don't have the pockets to get emotional about this. One 
of us weeping is plenty! Thanks for your help.  
Barbara L. Hickson
Flight Risk, '76 C&C33-1
Charleston, SC  





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Stus-List PVC Insert for Cinkel Mast or Boom

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the original PVC extrusion 
that was installed in the C&C masts/booms?
They fit into the slot, and allowed one to use a bolt rope in the foot of the 
sail, or a bolt rope to be used in the luff of the main sail, and in the foot 
of the mainsail.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD


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Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

This is technically known as "vortex shedding". It's a natural phenomena 
caused by the air flow around a round cylinder ( the rod or the wire) and 
occurs at certain wind speeds. At normal speeds, normal flow occurs, and 
there's no vibration. At certain higher speeds, vortexes develop, and induce 
vibrations in the rigging. Tightening or loosing the rigging will usually 
reduce the effect. You can find a more complete description on the internet.


Note: Commercial airliners have observed the problem at their wing tips, and 
many recently added small winglets at the ends of their wings.  I believe 
this reduces energy loss, reduces the vibration, and improves their fuel 
mileage.


Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD



-Original Message- 
From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, July 25, 2016 11:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Tirtirau
Subject: Stus-List Singing Rigging

Hello fellow seers,
I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while 
on the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a 
generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the 
strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of 
that without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower 
that is a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but 
does not go away.

Cheers,
Christian Tirtirau
C&C 37 Northern Light

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Re: Stus-List Mast boot

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

The original mast boot for many of the C&C Models made of of a PVC material by 
a vacuum forming process
The company had form for the various mast cross sections and would make them on 
demand.
I last bought one about 7 yrs ago, and it fits tight, no leaks and was 
available in black or white vinyl.
They also make those piling caps that you see at many marinas

Check them out 


ssicustomplastics.com/products/piling-caps

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

















i

From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2016 10:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard 
Subject: Stus-List Mast boot

Hi, 

If you can install with the mast off Holland Marine and other places sell 
universal boots with tapered ends and you just cut at the level that is a tight 
fit over your mast and base.  This way it's continuous. 

You cinch in down with large hose clamps and complete the seal with regular 
silicon.  It's really straightforward, does not leak,  and it looks "Factory": 
It kinda a looks like a shift boot on a manual transmission car. 

Regards, 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia




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Re: Stus-List Nav Station Panel and Volt Meter Recommendations

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I also used the Blue Seas three bank DVM. It’s been great, but quite a bit more 
expensive than the Sears DVM that that you found.

For the panel: the original material used by C&C was 1/8 inch black bakelite. I 
had a local sign maker fabricate a custom panel for me.
He used his CNC engraving machine and did a great professional job.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 15, 2016 2:03 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Nav Station Panel and Volt Meter Recommendations

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-Systems-8051-THREE-3-BANK-DIGITAL-VOLTAGE-Battery-MONITOR-volt-Meter-DC-/131727773016?hash=item1eab964d58:g:9n0AAOSwJb9Wr4mK&vxp=mtr


Dennis C.




On Mon, Feb 15, 2016 at 12:30 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Blue Seas 






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Re: Stus-List DC distribution panels

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

When I needed a panel for my C&C 41 I went to a local sign maker. They matched 
the material and engraved the lettering I needed.
They were familiar with making that style panel, and had a CNC machine that did 
it all. I don’t recall the cost but it didn’t seem to be excessive.

Don Wagner
”Der Baron”
C&C 41 CB

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2016 7:57 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List DC distribution panels

I think they are custom made by C&C.  You can just replace individual 
components/breakers.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Jan 24, 2016 7:19 PM, "erik hillenmeyer via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  Does anyone know where to get replacement DC circuit breaker panel that are 
the same dimensions as the original panel (1984 C&C 35-3).  The originals are 8 
position panels that measure 9" H x 5" W.  I can't find anything online that 
are these dimensions.  Even 8 position panels from blue sea are much shorter, 
although they look like a great match.

  Erik
  C&C 35-3
  Slapshot
  Chicago

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Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint (Damian Greene)

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I’ve had 2 older C&Cs, a 30-1, and a 41. I was told by Southshore and others 
that the original bilge paint is “ polyester gel coat” tinted light gray.
My personal observations seem to indicate that is correct. It is very hard, 
tough, durable, and chemically resistant. 
I would doubt that C&C would have used  lead based paint. If not gel coat, 
maybe it could be epoxy. I do know that it sure doesn’t seem to be a latex, or 
oil based lead paint.

Intellux sells a gray or white Bilge coat that is epoxy or polyester based I 
believe.

Just my .02 $

Don Wagner 
Der Baron
C&C 41 CB

From: Damian Greene via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 2:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: damian.gre...@yahoo.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint (Damian Greene)

Bob,

You can get a lead paint test kit for $10 in Home Depot etc. That will answer 
the question definitively. 

Regards,

Damian Greene

GHOST 1982 C&C 34 
Bass Harbor, Maine
 

It wasn’t outlawred until ’78, so there is probably a good chance, 
unfortunately.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2016 8:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 .
Subject: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some sanding of the 
original paint in there. Is there any chance that paint has lead in it?
Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1








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Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Just run the line up,thru the cringle, then down around the boom an tie  a 
bowline to fasten the end around the boom. This gives you the benefit of a 2 
part reef line. The bowline end should be located underneath the cringle. It 
will stay there by itself. I've assumed you have a loose footed main. I not, 
have your sailmaker  sew a slot in the foot to accommodate the bowline.


Works great for me.

Don Wagner
C&C 41CB
Der Baron
West River MD

-Original Message- 
From: Dave via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2015 7:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

Evening all.
Am wondering what I am doing a bit wrong here...
I have a 33ii with jiffy reefing lines run inside the boom.  They exit at 
the end of the boom (alongside the out haul) where they are then run up to 
their respective cringles.  I have simply used a stop knot in the cringle, 
as there is no place to attach the bitter end on the boom after being rove 
through the cringle.
Due to the geometry involved, the sail sets poorly and the boom sags, as the 
line does not pull the cringle down tight to the boom, only out toward the 
end of the boom.  I'm sure I'm missing something simple 


Any suggestions?   Many thanks!

Dave

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Josh

To answer your question about “What are the shaft zincs protecting?” Assuming 
you are in saltwater such as the Chesapeake,
Just a few things, including: the prop, the shaft, the rudder post, the keel 
bolts (especially if you have the C&C Smile), as well as any other of the usual 
underwater metals.
You should protect these items as the can’t be easily inspected, but failure 
can be a real disaster.

If you have a shaft isolator, you should install one or  more copper jumpers 
between the engine coupling and the prop shaft coupling.

Also Galvanic isolators are suggested for situations where you suspect the AC 
system at the marina or nearby boats may be compromised.

Note: Galvanic isolators are a simple circuit made up 2 big diodes wired in 
parallel but pointed in opposite directions. Since the diodes are not perfect 
they create about .6 volt DC barriers to prevent the corrosion currents  needed 
for electrolysis.

A  big capacitor is also connected in parallel with the diodes to allow AC 
current at low levels and in case of diode failure. All three components are 
mounted on a large heat sink to keep the parts cool and insure a longer life.
Don’t try building this yourself, unless you can design the proper size diodes 
and capacitors and heat sink the box

Just my$.02


Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 12:48 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

Since we're on topic.  It seems that there is a bit of differing opinions on 
bonding the under water metals.

What are the shaft and prop zincs protecting?  If a shaft coupling isolator 
were installed and no bonding wire attached then the chance of stray galvanic 
currents is eliminated.   Right?  What is the risk of this situation?  I don't 
have bonding plates, bronze through hulls, keel coolers or anything else except 
the keel that is metal and in contact with the water.

I've considered possible corrosion effects on internal engine components and 
A/C components.  Seems plausible but no one ever talks about it.  Thoughts? 

I've also considered the anode in the water heater.  Seems like the most likely 
to experience stray galvanic currents and the least likely to be replaced or 
checked on any regular periodicity despite its ease of access within the boat.

I have 2 30 amp connections but use a y-adapter so only 1 shore power cord is 
required.  I also built my own galvanic isolator for ~$30 with parts from 
mouser.com, I've just never had the urgent need to install it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Oct 28, 2015 12:32 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  Also, the ProMariner FS Series is a “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote 
panel needed.  Under $300 for a 30-amp unit. 

  http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/


  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Steve — the “fail-safe” versions of galvanic isolators are also 
ABYC-approved, and don’t require the remote panel.  There’s a company up in our 
neck of the woods that started out making electrical equipment for dairy farms; 
they realized that their ground isolation products would also work well on 
boats, so they expanded into the marine market.  All their units are the 
“fail-safe” types, and their prices are reasonable. 

http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator
http://www.deimarine.com


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Ed, 
 What you say is true from the perspective of having effective 
galvanic isolation, but there are a couple of design issues that come to mind. 
In order for galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the boat must be 
interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if there are two shore 
power receptacles then both of them would have to have their wiring grounds 
taken to the isolator and then out again to the distribution panel(s). From an 
engineering perspective, a wiring ground only needs to have enough capacity to 
reliably trip a circuit breaker without catching on fire, but most electrical 
codes require that they have the same capacity as the main conductors. In other 
words, if you care about regulations and some people on this list have 
indicated that they do, then the galvanic isolator would most likely have to 
have at least the current capacity of the sum of both shore power receptacles. 
  According to the instructions that came with a galvanic isolator that 
a friend of mine bought last year, a galvanic isolator requires an (optional 
and at an additional cost for that particular product) indicator light to be 
ABYC compliant

Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Rob

Yes , it is a 2 person job ! My raw water strainer is readily accessible via 
the Starboard sail locker. It’s a big sail locker, and the strainer is easy to 
reach.

I normally do a bunch of winterizing stuff at the end of the season, like 
getting the sails off, winterizing the fresh water system, changing filters, 
changing oil, removing mast head instruments, cleaning out bilges, removing 
floor boards, etc. so I usually have someone (maybe 2 crew) available to 
assist. 

I would definitely not  do most of this winterizing by my self any way.



Don Wagner
Der Baron
C&C 41
West River MD


From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

Don:

I have witnessed your 'in water' engine winterizing process under taken 'on the 
hard'..on the hard, as I observed, it is a two person job.one down 
below doing the pouring and one in the cockpit on the engine.

Is it a two person task when you do it?   If one person, how do you manage that?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 


On 2015-09-28 6:19 PM, Don Wagner via CnC-List wrote:

  I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.

  If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
  then: Shut engine off.
  Close inlet seacock.
  Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
  Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.
  Use a funnel if necessary.
  When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,
  Shut off engine and replace filter lid.
  This system has worked well for me for > 40 years
  with my C&C 30 mk1 and my C&C 41.

  Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.

  Winterizing the water tanks is another story.

  Don Wagner 
  C&C 41 CB
  Der Baron
  West River MD
  I

  From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
  Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM
  To: CnC CnC discussion list 
  Cc: David Knecht 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

  My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 15’ 
piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other 
into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and wait for 
the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  
It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, 
not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave 

  Aries
  1990 C&C 34+
  New London, CT

   

On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers, 

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, 
I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.

If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
then: Shut engine off.
Close inlet seacock.
Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.
Use a funnel if necessary.
When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,
Shut off engine and replace filter lid.
This system has worked well for me for > 40 years
with my C&C 30 mk1 and my C&C 41.

Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.

Winterizing the water tanks is another story.

Don Wagner 
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD
I

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 15’ 
piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other 
into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and wait for 
the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  
It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, 
not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

 

  On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Listers, 

  I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake 
to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, 
I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 

  Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 


  All the best,

  Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY 
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I found that the Harken Catalog contains lots of suggestions on how to rig 
your boat.
They have a lot of mainsheet ideas, traveller configurations, spinnaker 
ideas, etc.


Have you checked out their catalog? Or call their tech guys. They have been 
a big help to me!!

Just my $ .02.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River MD

-Original Message- 
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2015 11:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections

Start by telling us what you intend to do with the boat and for us novices,
what is the current setup. If you are racing, there are options which may be
different than if you are casually racing or cruising. I originally went
with a windward sheeting traveler setup on my boat and later realized that
the boat is so stiff and I race in light air that it was overkill (and
expensive). Could have done better with less. And it is a pain when
cruising.

Gary
- Original Message - 
From: "Stephen Thorne via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Stephen Thorne" 
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 11:06 PM
Subject: Stus-List Boom Mainsheet Connections



All,
I would like to improve the mainsheet / traveler set up on my 1990 34+ and 
was looking for advise on best ways to improve original factory set up. 
Any suggestions on where to get detailed info on improvement options?


Thank you

Steve
Deja Vu
Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 15, 2015, at 7:05 PM, cnc-list-requlist.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1.  2015 NE Rendezvous (Stu)
  2.   - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (Danny Haughey)
  3. Re:  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (Joel Aronson)
  4. Re:  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (Martin DeYoung)
  5. Re:  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (David Lenehan)
  6. Re:  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (Ken Heaton)
  7. Re:  Indicator lights for breaker panel (Jim Watts)
  8. Re:  Indicator lights for breaker panel (Jim Watts)
  9. Re:  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (Dennis C.)
 10. Re:  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (Kevin Driscoll)
 11. Re:  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
 (Andrew Burton)


--

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2015 16:44:22 -0400
From: "Stu" 
To: "C&C Email List" 
Subject: Stus-List 2015 NE Rendezvous
Message-ID: <09159CFD54D748A181FB6C71E4E3F1D1@StusNew>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I guess it is not a surprise anymore ? Gladys and I were the surprise 
guests at last weekend?s NE Rendezvous.


I want to personally thank Edd (and his partners) for organizing the 
event and providing us with a remarkable weekend.  It was a real pleasure 
to put faces on names.  The warm welcome and great hospitality will be 
remembered for a long time.


We made it home Monday after a 600 mile drive and now need to sit back 
and enjoy some of that duty free rum.


Thanks to everyone who participated and made our trip a very enjoyable 
one.


Stu ?n? Gladys
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2015 20:46:02 GMT
From: "Danny Haughey" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List  - Inflable life jacket with harness recommendation
Message-ID: <20150915.164602.2186...@webmail-beta01.vgs.untd.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Hi guys, I'm to buy an inflatable life jacket with a harness and tether 
and I'm looking for recommendations. I'm told I should get hydrostatic. 
These things run up to $400. Then there is a mustang version on sale at 
defender for $259. I'm interested in what you guys use or recommend. We 
don't go offshore much but, intend to further our cruising ground. 
DannyStill moving toward a closing!

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--

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2015 16:55:05 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List - Inflable life jacket with harness
   recommendation
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf

Re: Stus-List 2015 Northeast @ Cedar Island

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Got itDon & Jean Wagner

From: David via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, September 03, 2015 1:36 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 2015 Northeast @ Cedar Island

Rob,

Hey...I gets my  pharms via mail.   Smart fella eh?

Corsair draft at 8' would eliminate most of those offerings.   If we can get to 
Newport in six hours what midrange point would you say makes sense with my 
draft?

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)





Date: Thu, 3 Sep 2015 12:29:15 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 2015 Northeast @ Cedar Island
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: trys...@gmail.com

Reminder: 

If anyone wants a mooring at the mouth of the Mystic River for a stopover 
Thursday or Sunday night, and maybe have a bite to eat at one of the dockside 
restaurants

I have two empty moorings good for up to a 40 ft boat with 6 ft draft and there 
are 3-4 inexpensive ($30) transient moorings right next to mine that can take 7 
ft draft.  I also can set up an inexpensive dock for the night, but no showers 
amenities. 

These moorings are just a 1/4 mile from Fishers Island Sound. Simple 
navigation, even I don't get lost or hit anything. 

If you need showers or slips with all the doodads there are three marinas at 
the mouth of the river.  Ice, fuel, etc.

My car will be here if anyone needs a lift to the store or into Mystic.  There 
is also a pharmacy in case David Risch needs to stock up on nitroglycerin, 
viagra, ibuprofen, and axe body spray.

Rob Gallagher
860-389-6900



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Re: Stus-List 37+ Navteq hydraulic backstay hoses

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I’ve found that many Truck Repair centers have the capability  to repair 
hydraulic lines and hydraulic cylinders.
I believe I once used a place in Waldorf MD to do some work for me.
It’s close to Solomon’s Island MD. You might check it out !

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Alan Bergen via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2015 8:10 PM
To: C&C Photoalbum email list 
Cc: Alan Bergen 
Subject: Stus-List 37+ Navteq hydraulic backstay hoses

I use Lew Townsend in Seattle:  lewtowns...@comcast.net  206-498-7282 


He did rebuilds for me, and he can make new hoses for you.


Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

'Portland, OR



Hey guys,

I just found one my hydraulic backstay hoses is leaking.  It looks like it is 
leaking through the hose not at any of the fittings or the hydraulic cylinder.  
Any words of wisdom regarding it's replacement?

Thanks, 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




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Re: Stus-List new topic mast height C&C 30 MKI

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Rick
I doubt that it was a Bermuda 40. Since it was a yawl(or maybe ketch rigged) , 
a  B40 would likely have only 55 ‘ or less mast height. 
My C&C 41 with a triple spreader tall rig is ~ 62 feet above the water. I keep 
thinking that I can make it through most of the ICW bridges.
Perhaps that boat was a Hinkley Souwester 50??

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast height C&C 30 MKI

Three basic questions:

 

Reducing 85 feet of air draft to 65 feet requires 40 degrees of heel. What prep 
would you need to do to keep all your gear from ending up on the low side in a 
“gear-alanche”?

 

How in the heck much do those water bags weight to heel a Bermuda 40 that much, 
and just how much stress do those water bags put on the mast?

 

And who in their right mind would take a boat with an 85 foot air draft down 
the ICW anyway?

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2015 5:26 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List new topic mast height C&C 30 MKI

 

Just tell them to do it like this! 

https://youtu.be/kiv0fxFcV3I

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Aug 10, 2015 2:27 PM, "Davidmidkiff via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  Can anyone tell me the mast height above water for a C&C 30 MKI.
  Prospective new owner needs info to make sure they can clear a bridge.

  David Midkiff
  Serendipity
  C&C 30 MkI

  Infatuation
  C&C 35 MKIII


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Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Oops! Thanks for the correction Leslie. Being an EE, not a ME or fluids guy 
I should be more careful.


I worked at APL and our auditorium is named after a not so famous scientist.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

-Original Message- 
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2015 1:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leslie Paal
Subject: Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theodore_von_K%C3%A1rm%C3%A1n
von Karman was Hungarian.  I spent many hours in an auditorium named after 
him at JPL.


Leslie.


On Sat, 8/1/15, Don Wagner via CnC-List  wrote:

Subject: Re: Stus-List Howling rigging
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Don Wagner" 
Date: Saturday, August 1, 2015, 6:40 AM




The vibrations and the singing noises that you have
observed are
classical  examples of vortex shedding. They were
originally described by a
German fluid dynamics engineer, Theodore von Karmann.
If you are interested, do a search on “vortex
shedding”. Wikipeda has a
good description of the phenomena with some pix.  You might
also search “
von Karmann vortex street”

I’ve experienced it in my rigging, and occasionally
from my centerboard at
certain wind speeds or boat speeds

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron




From: Joel Aronson
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2015 2:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Joel
Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Howling
rigging

Had
a similar hum while coming back from Newport.  The engineer
on board put a
clothes pin on the shroud to change the harmonics. Worked
for several
hours.

Joel

On Saturday,
August 1, 2015, Russ & Melody via CnC-List


wrote:



Don't listen to him, Jim.  I
can tell he's just making things
  up. The name was Peat and we don't have pints of
rum... maybe a litre or two.


And to settle the ghost,
try hoisting a fender alongside the mast
  about half way up. You will be amazed how it can settle
the rig if you have
  oscillation. I had to do just that at the Boho Bash, 4
weeks ago.

Go
  ogle vortex breaker.


  Cheers, Russ

  Sweet 35 mk-1

At
09:56 PM 31/07/2015, you wrote:

  Dennis, where the hell did you
come up with
that?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk
III
Victoria,
BC

On 31 July 2015 at
21:04, Dennis C. via CnC-List 



wrote:

It's the ghost of Penelakut Pete.  He
drowned in Clam Bay when
  he fell overboard after consuming a few pints of
rum.  Legend says
  he only comes out on breezy nights.


  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA


  On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 9:26 PM, Jim Watts
via CnC-List 

  wrote:

  On our latest trip north, we anchored in Clam
Bay and had a strange
problem. At a certain wind speed, the shrouds would
start to hum,
sometimes making the boat shake with vibration. The
major vibration was
felt in the small rod running to the underside of
the upper spreaders
and in the mast and backstay.  I backed each
shroud one off half a
turn and it really didn't do much except make
those shrouds look loose
to me, but I'm sure I can't tell the
difference of 1/128th of an inch.
It eventually faded as the wind dropped.

For the next ten days, in all sorts of
conditions, we didn't hear
it, but when we anchored in the same bay 10 days
later, we got it again.


Any explanation except witchcraft?

Â

Jim Watts

Paradigm Shift

C&C 35 Mk III

Victoria, BC



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--
Joel
301
541
8551



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-Inline Attachment Follows-

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To change yo

Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

The vibrations and the singing noises that you have observed are classical  
examples of vortex shedding. They were originally described by a German fluid 
dynamics engineer, Theodore von Karmann.
If you are interested, do a search on “vortex shedding”. Wikipeda has a good 
description of the phenomena with some pix.  You might also search “ von 
Karmann vortex street”

I’ve experienced it in my rigging, and occasionally from my centerboard at 
certain wind speeds or boat speeds

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB 
Der Baron

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2015 2:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

Had a similar hum while coming back from Newport.  The engineer on board put a 
clothes pin on the shroud to change the harmonics. Worked for several hours.  

Joel

On Saturday, August 1, 2015, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Don't listen to him, Jim.  I can tell he's just making things up. The name 
was Peat and we don't have pints of rum... maybe a litre or two. 

  And to settle the ghost, try hoisting a fender alongside the mast about half 
way up. You will be amazed how it can settle the rig if you have oscillation. I 
had to do just that at the Boho Bash, 4 weeks ago.

  Go ogle vortex breaker. 

  Cheers, Russ
  Sweet 35 mk-1

  At 09:56 PM 31/07/2015, you wrote:

Dennis, where the hell did you come up with that?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 31 July 2015 at 21:04, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  It's the ghost of Penelakut Pete.  He drowned in Clam Bay when he fell 
overboard after consuming a few pints of rum.  Legend says he only comes out 
on breezy nights.


  Dennis C.

  Touche' 35-1 #83

  Mandeville, LA


  On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 9:26 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 wrote:

On our latest trip north, we anchored in Clam Bay and had a strange 
problem. At a certain wind speed, the shrouds would start to hum, sometimes 
making the boat shake with vibration. The major vibration was felt in the small 
rod running to the underside of the upper spreaders and in the mast and 
backstay.  I backed each shroud one off half a turn and it really didn't do 
much except make those shrouds look loose to me, but I'm sure I can't tell the 
difference of 1/128th of an inch. It eventually faded as the wind dropped. 

For the next ten days, in all sorts of conditions, we didn't hear it, 
but when we anchored in the same bay 10 days later, we got it again. 

Any explanation except witchcraft?

 

Jim Watts

Paradigm Shift

C&C 35 Mk III

Victoria, BC


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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551




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Re: Stus-List C & C 35 Mk III CB Keel Bolts

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I’ve also noted some rusty areas in the bilges of my previous C&C 30 and my 
current C&C 41 CB. The problem was that C&C used steel backing plates and some 
steel washers. I removed the original stuff and replaced it with the proper 
alloy stainless washers, and in some cases I had custom SS plates made and 
insured the they were properly passivated.
Note: 
My Metallurgist friends @ Johns Hopkins U, tell me that many alloys of 
stainless will develop some surface rust while developing a surface protective 
oxide.


I have never noted any  rusting of the keel bolts and never have seen Aluminum 
anything used in the bolts on a C&C. 

Don Wagner 
Der Baron
C&C 41 CB

From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2015 8:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C & C 35 Mk III CB Keel Bolts

Paul,

 

I agree with you on the washers.  Some of the spacer that C&C used were 
aluminum wedges to keep the nuts square to the bolts.  Mine were all replaced 
with stainless.  An easy upgrade and well worth it.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2015 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain
Subject: Re: Stus-List C & C 35 Mk III CB Keel Bolts

 

Have  33-2 with k/cb - no issue with the bolts, but the washers do need to be 
replaced with stainless ... 

Paul. :) 




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Re: Stus-List Need help identifying a book

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I can second Gary’s comment. Author was Doug Hanks. He was an Oxford MD sailor 
and into insurance/real estate. He passed away a few years ago, and his family 
decided to discontinue publication..
Used copies are available on Amazon. I believe he wrote another book that was 
about the Annapolis / Oxford Race. It was titled “Regatta”
Muskrat was the funniest sailing book I’ve ever read.
Hope you find it.
Don Wagner 
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
Shady Side MD
From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2015 3:10 PM
To: Rick Brass ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Need help identifying a book

You got it. Name of book was Muskrat. Author, if I remember correctly was Doug 
Hanks.

Good luck, great book, quite funny if you are at all familiar with Oxford, St. 
Michaels and this area - skipjacks, log canoes, etc.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 9:11 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Need help identifying a book

  When I lost the hard drive on my laptop, I lost a lot of files – including a 
wish list for books. I’m trying to recreate a portion of the list before the 
local libraries have their annual sales of donated books.

   

  One of the books on my list was an old fiction about an Americas Cup 
challenge organized in Chesapeake Bay. (See, this is at least tangentially 
sailing related) I vaguely recall that the name of the boat was “Muskrat”… or 
that “Muskrat” figured into the title of the book. 

   

  Can anyone help me with the name of the book and the author?

   

  Thanks.

   

  Rick Brass

  Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

  la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

  Washington, NC

   



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Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I replaced a similar unit like your old unit with the Moeller reed switch style 
on my C&C 41 ( 1986 model), and am very happy with. I am particularly pleased 
with the lack of moving parts, immersed in the fuel, and the sealed reed switch 
design. No need to calibrate, if the  tank is reasonably rectangular, if you 
know the depth, and  Moeller has a depth unit to match.

As I recall, the screw holes for the Moeller also matched the pattern for the 
old model.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

33-240 ohms is a USA standard for engine gauges. Oil pressure, temperature, 
fuel level, etc. will all use 33-240 ohm senders.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PME via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

 

Hi,

 

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.  

 

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.

 

 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg

 

 

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





 

 




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Re: Stus-List Alternator for Yanmar 3GM30

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Joel

You might want to talk to “Mamock’s . They are on Legion Ave in Annapolis. I’ve 
used them several times and found them easy to work with.

Don Wagner’'
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2014 9:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Alternator for Yanmar 3GM30

All, 

My alternator is putting out too much voltage (15 volts)  It s a 35 amp Apco 
with an internal regulator.  Rather than trying to have it rebuilt I am 
thinking of buying a new alternator.  Is there a higher amp alternator that 
will fit the single pulley without breaking the bank?  I don't want to spend 
$700 for a Balmar.  I have 2 house batteries and 1 start battery.  All are 
currently wet cell, but the next time around they will probably be AGM.


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 



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Re: Stus-List binnacle light

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Joel

Check the wiring diagram supplied in your C&C  Manual. On my 1986 C&C 41 CB,  
the Binnacle light is separately fused with an in-line fuse. The fuse is in 
series with the binnacle on/off switch located outside in the cockpit on the 
engine instrument panel. The fuse is behind the the panel and is part of the 
wiring harness. Remove the panel and check the switch and the fuse. The switch 
is not well sealed, and I’ve had to replace the switch and/or the fuse from 
time to time.
You may also note that the engine room blower switch is also in the same area, 
and similarly fused.

Good luck

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
West River , MD

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2014 12:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List binnacle light

There is no power to my binnacle light.  I've tried every breaker and switch.  
No luck. 
I can either trace the wiring back to the breaker or put a red LED in the 
navpod above the compass.  
Suggestions?


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551




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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mk1 rudder design

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

Ron
I  purchased a C&C 30 MK in 1972 ( 1973 model, hull # 100) . Raced her until 
1986 when I bought a C&C 41 CB
We won a lot of races on the Chesapeake with her, She is essentially a CCA 
design and we sailed with a 170% genoa
She is a very stiff boat with the 170 and even stiffer with the 155% genoas in 
use with PHRF today
The scimitar rudder worked fine in all kinds of light air or heavy breezes.  
rarely had to reef.
The only problem I had with the tiller rudder was when backing up. Since the 
design is unbalanced, and the rudder had no hard stops,
I had to back up lowly, adjusting the rudder only a few degrees. otherwise the 
loads on the tiller arm would become huge, yank the tiller out of my hand, and 
knock me on my butt.
While I never installed rudder stops, I was afraid the if I did a serious 
mishap might break the rudder or the tiller.

You  may also note that the rudder post is very far aft, and needs to be 
rotated maybe 45 degrees or more to get out of the way, if you need it to clear 
the transom, say with a ladder or get near sea wall. 
No big deal, but you do need to remember it.
I found it to be well built, east to sail, low maintenance, and a great boat 
for racing or cruising with 4 – 5 crew.
Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mk1 rudder design

My boat is a big version of the old C&C 30. I have noticed no issues in reverse 
with my rudder. I rarely use my tiller, so I can’t really tell you about that. 
I used to use the tiller in the rain so I could sit under the dodger, but then 
I got an autopilot. Like any boat, if the helm is a wrestling match you need 
some sail trim or sail reduction.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron and 
Sharon via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 1:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 mk1 rudder design

 

Good morning,

This is my first entry on the cnc-list. I have 40 yrs. of sailing experiece; 
mostly on Petersons.

I am presently without a boat and have been looking at older C&C 30 mk1's 
(1973-75).

There are several for sale in my area; asking price about $16,000.

They seem to be well built and in good structural cond. Most have diesel 
engines.

My only real concern is the rudder design (swept back, scimitar shaped).

Does this design cause excessive tiller pressure when reaching in heavy air?

How is it for steering when backing into a marina?

I see that in 1976 they redesigned the rudder. I have not seen a decent 1976-78 
mk1 for sale in my area yet.

Do you think I should forget the 1973-75's and wait for a 1976 or later one?

I am looking at boats in this era because they are affordable to me.

 

Thanks for any replies.

 

Ron

Nanaimo, BC, Canada

 

 

 

 

 




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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mk1 rudder design

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mk1 rudder design

My boat is a big version of the old C&C 30. I have noticed no issues in reverse 
with my rudder. I rarely use my tiller, so I can’t really tell you about that. 
I used to use the tiller in the rain so I could sit under the dodger, but then 
I got an autopilot. Like any boat, if the helm is a wrestling match you need 
some sail trim or sail reduction.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron and 
Sharon via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 1:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 mk1 rudder design

 

Good morning,

This is my first entry on the cnc-list. I have 40 yrs. of sailing experiece; 
mostly on Petersons.

I am presently without a boat and have been looking at older C&C 30 mk1's 
(1973-75).

There are several for sale in my area; asking price about $16,000.

They seem to be well built and in good structural cond. Most have diesel 
engines.

My only real concern is the rudder design (swept back, scimitar shaped).

Does this design cause excessive tiller pressure when reaching in heavy air?

How is it for steering when backing into a marina?

I see that in 1976 they redesigned the rudder. I have not seen a decent 1976-78 
mk1 for sale in my area yet.

Do you think I should forget the 1973-75's and wait for a 1976 or later one?

I am looking at boats in this era because they are affordable to me.

 

Thanks for any replies.

 

Ron

Nanaimo, BC, Canada

 

 

 

 

 




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