Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 4-60

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

You may want to try MOSS MOTORS.   ( moss motors.com ).  They sell Mini parts. 

Mike
Virginia LEE 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Apr 12, 2018, at 20:59, john sandford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It is a dieselised Mini engine, which was used in small tractors in the UK.
> I found parts from a chap in Cheshire. Water pump, head gasket, glow plugs, 
> valves.
> Google “BMC mini tractor parts.”
> https://www.tractorspareparts.co.uk/bmc-mini-tractor-916-bmc-mini-tractor-engine-parts-c-9_88_1115.html?sesid=8odigaaakotjp72haigfrsge56
>  
> I was also frustrated with Westerbeke who simply badge engineer their engines 
> and charge a fortune for parts, or tell you “No”.
> The clue was “MOWOG” on the intake manifold. Then I started searching.
> There is not a huge supply of parts out there, but enough for routine 
> maintenance.
> If you throw a rod, buy a yanmar.
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: Kevin Benoit [mailto:kbenoit...@gmail.com] 
> Sent: April-12-18 11:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Westerbeke 4-60
>  
> My boat has the original Westerbeke 4-60 diesel in it and I’m having a bit of 
> trouble sputcing parts for it. The local Westerbeke rep has been of no help, 
> saying that he hasn’t heard of one of those running since the 90s and even 
> his superseded part list for it is obsolete. I’ve emailed Westerbeke for 
> guadance but haven’t heard back yet.  Anyone have either a source for parts 
> or at least a cross reference list of compatible part numbers? 
>  
> Kevin Benoit
> S/V Guru
> 1974 C&C 35 MKII
> --
> Kevin Benoit 225-205-2373 Sent from My IPhone
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Pfd

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

If you ordered these PFDs be sure to check the bobbins.   Mine arrived with 
bobbins that expired in 2015.

Mike
Virginia LEE 93295
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Nov 2, 2017, at 06:58, Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You need to use the coupon code, I did and it worked, thanks Joel!!
> 
> Lisle
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 1983 c&c 40 std rig spreaders

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

I had my spreaders re-tipped at one time.   A local guy did it.I now do 
rigging work and have a local machinist who is able to fabricate spreaders.   
Your rigger should know someone who does that sort of work.   

Sail Safe,

Mike. 
Virginia Lee, 1978 C&C 31-1 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Oct 11, 2017, at 12:51, PETE via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hello all
> 
> Just had rig pulled  and lower spreader tips are severely corroded  upon 
> removal by yard   there are chunks missing   
> 
> my  rigger has not looked at them yet
> 
> My questions are:
> 1.  can they be re-tipped
> 2.  does anyone know where they can purchased if replacement needed
> 
> thanks
> 
> PETER
> Portland, me
> Goonie Island  1983 aft cabin
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Adam, I have a 1978 C&C 36.  I replaced my ports with Bomar 2000 Series opening 
ports. I had to make the openings slightly larger but it worked well and 
I've not had any leaks since they were installed in2006.

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295. 1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 08:53, Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all.  I am finally going to replace the ports in my C&C 36.  I know this 
> has been discussed at length.  Just quickly will the 3M vhb tape work and 
> does it seal as well.
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> Adam Hayden
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

I have been using a top climber for about 15 years.   I generally tie it off to 
the toe rail on my C&C36.The tighter you can tie it the better off you are 
and the easier the climb.   Likewise, if you have stretchy halyards it is 
helpful to have an assistant in case you need to take up the slack created when 
the halyard stretches.It isn't as easy as it looks on the ATN video.

Mike 
Virginia Lee  93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, Va

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Mar 17, 2017, at 16:05, Steve Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> All,
>  I have been following this discussion with interest since I just 
> returned to my southern project boat with a so-far unused ATN Top Climber, 
> and intend to use it in the next couple of days. I have taken note in 
> particular to the idea of using a loop(s) to stay at the mast. The designer 
> of the device however, has at least in the past, suggested securing the 
> static line away from the mast because it makes the climb easier. I have not 
> tried it either way, but I like the sound of staying at the mast better. 
> Anyone have comments on this aspect of using the ATN climbing gear? Obviously 
> the boat would have to be pretty steady. 
> 
> On a separate note regarding fall arrest. I had a conversation one time with 
> an accomplished ice climber and asked him what type of line he preferred, 
> nylon or low stretch. He seemed to think that I was a complete idiot for even 
> asking the question, and maybe I was. Anyway, just to save anyone else who 
> has not thought it through from similar embarrassment or injury, you 
> definitely want any line that might arrest a fall to be stretchy. Nylon in 
> other words. 
> 
> I plan therefore to use polyester for the static line, and nylon for any 
> safety fall arrest  lines. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, FL  
> 
> 
>  Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote: 
> http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/upmast.jpg
> 
> Working on a topping lift in the Gulf Stream. If you are climbing underway, 
> MAKE SURE you have a loop to hold you near the mast. It does not look rough 
> in that photo, but the swells at 55 feet up were enough to make it hard to 
> hang on, and if you get loose you will hit one or more things pretty hard.
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> j...@dellabarba.com  
> 
> 
> Coquina
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
> Rohwer via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 11:19 PM
> To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> Cc: Rick Rohwer 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo
> 
> 
> I use the same ascenders with my own concoction of straps but unlike the 
> fellow in the “atninc" ad I prefer a bosun’s chair to a  climbing harness.  
> Plenty of pockets for tools and your vitals don’t go numb.  These allow you 
> to actually climb above the top of the mast so you can work readily on mast 
> top fittings. 
> 
> Rick
> 
> Paikea37+
> 
> On Mar 16, 2017, at 8:12 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
> 
> Ryan — many on the list prefer a standard climbing harness and ascenders for 
> this type of job.  I personally prefer to sit while working for long periods 
> of time, so I use the ATN TopClimber (now called the “MastClimber”): 
> http://www.atninc.com/atn-mastclimber-sailing-equipment.shtml
> 
> I’ve had very good luck with this equipment; in a previous life as a marine 
> electronics installer, I spent a LOT of time up masts, and always felt safe 
> and comfortable.
> 
> YMMV…
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Rod rigging.

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

All. NAVTEC has gone out of business.   At the moment it looks like Hayn is 
trying to take up the slack.   You should be able to have the balls made by a 
local machinist however, I would look at changing the rigging to either newer 
style rod fittings or dyform.

Mike
Virginia Lee  93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Feb 13, 2017, at 23:12, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I suggest contacting South 
> Shore Yachts in Niagara-on-the-Lake.  Not only did it acquire a lot of C&C 
> parts and information after the original company went bankrupt, it was (and 
> may still be) a Navtec agent.  I bought the original C&C "build file" for my 
> 34 from South Shore, which was possible because South Shore acquired all of 
> C&C's old records.  When I replaced the stays on that boat, South Shore made 
> the replacements, including the "new" (at the time) heads and fittings for 
> the mast.  Rob MacLachlan can likely answer your questions.
> 
> -Original Message- From: Steve via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 13, 2017 3:50 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Steve
> Subject: Stus-List Rod rigging.
> 
> My newly acquired 1980 CNC 36 had the heads cut off of the intermediate 
> shrouds. In trying to get them re-headed I discovered I'm missing 1 ball from 
> under the cap. The through bolt needs replacing as well as possibly the caps. 
> Question is, did Navtec go to a different option because of the dissimilar 
> metals issue? Suggestions please?
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Feb 13, 2017, at 7:56 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Steve,   Make sure that you take a good look at the knees which the shroud 
>> and back stay chain plates attach.   These are a known weak spot on boats of 
>> our vintage.About 9 years ago the tabbing on one of mine started 
>> separating.  I was fortunate that I found it before a catastrophic failure.
>> 
>> About every 2-3 years I find that I have to snug up on some of the toe rail 
>> fasteners.   Generally a 1 flat turn re-seals.
>> 
>> Sail safe,
>> 
>> Mike
>> Virginia LEE.  93295
>> 1978 C&C 36 CB
>> Virginia Beach, Va
>> Sent from my iPad Mini
>> 
>>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 22:14, Steve via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything on 
>>> my newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the 
>>> rigging. I have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, 
>>> and keel bolts.  No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull 
>>> fittings.  After using a shop vac to remove any trace of water in the bilge 
>>> I return the next day and continue to find about 1/2 gallon of water in the 
>>> bilge.  I am now convinced that it is coming back from the manual bilge 
>>> hose which outputs through a Y connection on the bilge pump output hose.  I 
>>> evacuated that tonight.  We’ll see in the morning.  If I find any, it will 
>>> be either salt or bleach.  That should help narrow it down, as I have 
>>> bleach in the water tanks.  The holding tank is empty. Good thing for the 
>>> taste test!
>>> 
>>>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Hello listers,
>>>> 
>>>> In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C&C 35 Mk I, 
>>>> after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey 
>>>> from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!
>>>> 
>>>> The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina 
>>>> near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat 
>>>> for her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a 
>>>> slip adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.
>>>> 
>>>> One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in 
>>>> the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. 
>>>> I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be 
>>>> about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not 
>>>> sure where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is 
>>>> pooling in the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My 
>>>> first instinct is to have a frien

Re: Stus-List New (old) C&C 35 Mk I - Water Ingress

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Steve,   Make sure that you take a good look at the knees which the shroud and 
back stay chain plates attach.   These are a known weak spot on boats of our 
vintage.About 9 years ago the tabbing on one of mine started separating.  I 
was fortunate that I found it before a catastrophic failure.

About every 2-3 years I find that I have to snug up on some of the toe rail 
fasteners.   Generally a 1 flat turn re-seals. 

Sail safe, 

Mike
Virginia LEE.  93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, Va
Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Feb 12, 2017, at 22:14, Steve via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Regarding recurring water in the bilge: I am busy going over everything on my 
> newly acquired 1980 CNC 36.  My mast is off pending repairs to the rigging. I 
> have checked and double checked water tanks (2), water lines, and keel bolts. 
>  No water coming from them or any of the 7 through hull fittings.  After 
> using a shop vac to remove any trace of water in the bilge I return the next 
> day and continue to find about 1/2 gallon of water in the bilge.  I am now 
> convinced that it is coming back from the manual bilge hose which outputs 
> through a Y connection on the bilge pump output hose.  I evacuated that 
> tonight.  We’ll see in the morning.  If I find any, it will be either salt or 
> bleach.  That should help narrow it down, as I have bleach in the water 
> tanks.  The holding tank is empty. Good thing for the taste test!
> 
>> On Feb 12, 2017, at 10:27 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello listers,
>> 
>> In December I finalized the purchase of my first keelboat, a C&C 35 Mk I, 
>> after receiving an extremely thorough and detailed list of items to survey 
>> from Joe Della Barba. Joe, thanks again for your help!
>> 
>> The previous owner of the boat was a local racing legend who ran a marina 
>> near Glen Island, NY. He had been giving me advice on readying the boat for 
>> her new life on a mooring after spending the last four decades in a slip 
>> adjacent to his houseboat. Unfortunately, he passed away last weekend.
>> 
>> One of the questions I had yet to broach was the accumulation of water in 
>> the bilge. The boat has been on the hard, shrinkwrapped, for three years. 
>> I've been pumping the bilge dry every two-four weeks, and it seems to be 
>> about 2-4 gallons of water as measured by a big plastic bucket. I'm not sure 
>> where the water is coming from. Apart from the bilge, water is pooling in 
>> the forward-most storage compartment under the port settee. My first 
>> instinct is to have a friend on deck hold the screws on the toerails and 
>> stanchion bases while I slightly tighten the nuts below deck and see if the 
>> water ingress stops. Does that make sense? Is there a different, better 
>> course of action I should take at this time? Does anyone know offhand what 
>> size socket I'll need?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Tom
>> 
>> ---
>> Snow Goose
>> C&C 35 Mk I 
>> City Island, NY
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Mast Step Box 1980 CnC36

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Steve,  it's been a while since I unstepped my mast but I do remember that 
there is a keel bolt located under the aluminum plate.   If I remember 
correctly the "box" is what appears to be wood glassed to the hull.   If it 
were my boat I'd unstep the  mast and make the repairs.   I know that isn't 
what you want to heat but given some of the problems I've had with my boat over 
the years I recommend a complete and thorough inspection.   I'll be interested 
in hearing what you find.  

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee. 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA 
Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jan 9, 2017, at 12:17, Steve Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Whatever is supporting the mast step on my 1980 C&C36 project boat has sunk 
> by 1/2 to 1.0 inch, and the mast is pulling down on the cabin top. There is 
> no visible sign of rot in the wood and fibreglass cross members at either 
> end, and I am planning to attempt to put an aluminum plate shim underneath. 
> The step box is constructed of anodized aluminum about a half an inch thick, 
> and the bottom plate extends forward forming a shelf through which 2 bolts or 
> lag screws hold it in place. There are no other visible mechanical fasteners. 
> Judging from all the talk over the years about mast steps, I am guessing that 
> someone on the list has removed a similar box on a similar if not identical 
> boat. What did you find? Were there other fasteners? Was the fibreglass 
> holding it down? Any issues getting it loose? What is underneath that not 
> obvious?
> I am hoping to do this without unstepping the mast, but just jacking it up a 
> bit. 
> 
> Thanks, 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C 36
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List weeping hull

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Jacob,  the C&C 36 hull is cored throughout.   The area around the keel stub is 
solid.   The area to which you refer is most likely cored.

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee  93295
1978 C&C 36 CB 

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Nov 18, 2016, at 14:52, jacob fuerst via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> In my '78 C&C 36 I am seeing a couple spots where salt water is weeping in 
> through the hull near the bilge area, appearing from seemingly nowhere as if 
> from a spring. One point is about 3' back from the mast and 18" to the side. 
> The other is closer to the keel but they both are on the edges of hull 
> stringers. 
> 
> I've had a few people look at it and I've gotten everything from an estimate 
> to rebed the keel (though the bolts seem fine and I had the boat out in May), 
> to cutting apart the fiberglass to locate where the water is running from, to 
> don't worry about it.
> 
> Has anyone had this happen before? How big of a deal is it? The amount of 
> water is minimal but I believe they were coring the hulls. Does anyone know 
> the exact cross sectional thickness of the fiberglass? Were just the sides of 
> the boat cored or did they do the entire hull? How did that work where the 
> keel meets? Is it possible that a through-hull is leaking and water is 
> running up to several feet along the core and popping up somewhere random 
> where it has found a weak spot in the fiberglass? 
> 
> -- 
> Jacob Fuerst
> 303-520-4669
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Rust

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Mark,   Most turnbuckles are made of bronze with a chrome coating.   They 
should not show any sign of rust.   The studs and toggles ends may show some 
sign of rust but it should clean off very easily with any good metal polish.   
As for the 1X19 wire I recommend that you get the rigger who put it all 
together to take a look.   There shouldn't be any sign of rust on the wire 
after 1 year.   

As previously stated you can have some transfer from the dyes during the 
swaging  process but again it should come off easily.

Mike
Virginia Lee C&C 36 93295
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Nov 12, 2016, at 22:57, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> 
> Less than a year ago I had the standing rigging replaced on our C&C 25.  
> Recently I noticed some rust on the turnbuckles.  Also, there is rust on the 
> lines that runs in a spiral pattern all the way up.  I called our local 
> rigger and he offered to take a look, but be's been so busy that I'm still 
> waiting.  From what I understand the dyes in the steel can cause this which 
> is no big deal, or it could be a bad batch of steel.   Has anyone ever come 
> across this?  I wonder how to tell the difference.  Any thoughts or opinions 
> are appreciated.  I had the rigging replaced at a yard near where we bought 
> the boat which is 150 miles away so we could sail it home which makes things 
> more complicated.
> 
> Thanks as always,
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> Ft Pierce FL
> C&C 25 "Icicle"
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Give Kracor a call.   When I had a problem with one of my tanks they were very 
helpful.   The tank had a crack at the threads and  I was able to repair it 
using their instructions


Mike 
Virginia Lee, C&C 36 CB. 93295
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jul 8, 2016, at 11:47, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If the fitting was screwed in too tight, it might have put a small crack in 
> the tank.  That happened to mine, and I had to replace the tank.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 8, 2016 at 4:12 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Kelly,
>> Have you tried replacing the fitting?
>> If it's a poly fitting it could have gotten damge to the threads or 
>> mis-shaped somehow...
>> 
>> Worth a shot I think. 
>> 
>> Use some good Teflon tape and maybe some kind of pipe sealer.   I used to 
>> use a product called 'grip' when I was worried about leaks.  It's messy 
>> though and is hard to break the joint later.   Also,  you don't want to use 
>> too much Teflon Tape on the joint.  Just a few wraps.   
>> 
>> Danny 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Harry Hallgring Jr via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/7/16 8:50 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Harry Hallgring Jr 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Tank Woes
>> 
>> I have 3-20 gallon Kracor tanks and 2-23.5 gallon Nauta bladders for fresh 
>> water and 1-39.5 gallon Kracor tank for poop. They all perform well. 
>> 
>> Harry
>> Sent from my iPhone 7 beta
>> 
>>> On Jul 7, 2016, at 20:12, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Replace it with a flex tank.  I love my flex tanks.  I don't have a single 
>>> rigid tank on Touche'.
>>> 
>>> For some reason, flex tanks don't have a strong following.  However, in 
>>> being a member of this list for a decade and a half, I do not remember a 
>>> single post about a failure of a flex tank.  There have been several about 
>>> rigid tanks.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
 On Thu, Jul 7, 2016 at 4:56 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 One of my water tanks continues to leak and it appears to be where the 
 barbed elbow fitting exits the tank .  I've wrapped the threads with 
 Teflon tape [both pink and white], but it fails to make a good seal.  This 
 is my 3rd attempt to fix it. 
 The tank is a Kracor brand, and the tank's walls and bottom appear to be 
 quite thick.  I have observed "weeping" only right around the hole where 
 the elbow fitting is screwed into it.
  
 Does anyone have a suggestion?  Is there some adhesive that I can apply 
 the threads of the barbed fitting??
  
 Thanks,
  
 Pete W.
  
 Siren Song
 C&C 30-2
 Deltaville, VA. 
 
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>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Centerboard cable

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

On my 36 it attaches to the boat with a bow shackle.   I had the cable made and 
then sized it at the boat using wire clamps..   

Mike C&C 36 CB 93295
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jul 4, 2016, at 16:18, demojo58 via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, I have a cnc 32cb and my cable broke inside the hole cut out on the 
> trailing edge of the centerboard does anyone know how the cable attaches to 
> the board
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet
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Re: Stus-List Dropping the Rudder

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Josh,   What did you use for the new core/foam?

Mike 
Virginia LEE 93295
Cc&C 36 CB

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On May 25, 2016, at 09:57, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Pics of the job when I had mine done.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On May 25, 2016 8:58 AM, "Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> I'm planning to drop the rudder on my 37 and re-core it with foam, and was 
>> wondering what I should look for and expect when doing this operation? What 
>> are the steps involved and what challenges have other listers encountered?
>> 
>> Chris
>> C&C 37 Northern Light
>> Halifax
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> > On May 24, 2016, at 11:19 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> >cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> >
>> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> >http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> >cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> >
>> > You can reach the person managing the list at
>> >cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> >
>> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> >
>> >
>> > Today's Topics:
>> >
>> >   1. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>> >   2. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Kevin Driscoll)
>> >   3. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (randy.staff...@comcast.net)
>> >   4. Re:  Head Foil Feed Funnel (Sam Wheeler)
>> >   5. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Jake Brodersen)
>> >   6. Re:  Throttle Cable Adjustment (Dave)
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> > Message: 1
>> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 15:38:50 -0700
>> > From: Sam Wheeler 
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Foil Feed Funnel
>> > Message-ID:
>> >
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> >
>> > Ouch.
>> >
>> > My version of Lesson 1 was when I was in college and an older alumnus
>> > invited our team to race with him on his Serendipity 43.  We went out for a
>> > practice day, and as team captain and one of the only people with
>> > non-dinghy race experience, I ended up as the de facto crew chief.
>> >
>> > We get the spinnaker up and call for a jibe.  Foredeck crew dips the pole
>> > and gets it hooked up on the new guy, but it's not coming aft, so I yell to
>> > the 6'8" dude on the primary winch to keep cranking.
>> >
>> > The ensuing explosion of carbon fiber shards taught me a valuable lesson
>> > about baby stays.
>> >
>> > Sam
>> > 35-3
>> > SF
>> >
>> > On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 9:13 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
>> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> It's in 18 feet of murky questionable marina water that I'd prefer not to
>> >> swim in, even if I could see my hand in front of my face :)
>> >>
>> >> Turns out I got great customer service from Head Foil.  I sent them a
>> >> picture and description of the half I didn't drop overboard, and they 
>> >> dated
>> >> it to the first years of their company - early 70s, meaning my luff 
>> >> support
>> >> system was probably original.  They looked but couldn't find a replacement
>> >> part.  So I'm getting a new Head Foil system after a 44-year service life
>> >> on the previous one.  Not sure the replacement feed funnel have would have
>> >> been a complete fix anyway, because some of the plastic extrusion
>> >> underneath it cracked and broke off.  Without a new system I'm worried 
>> >> that
>> >> sharp plastic edges might cut luff tapes of headsails being hoisted.  The
>> >> new Head Foil system is significantly less expensive than competing 
>> >> systems
>> >> or furlers.  I called / emailed the company on Saturday morning and they
>> >> called me back within a few hours.  My new system shipped today.  I'll
>> >> report back after installing and using it.
>> >>
>> >> There's actually more to the story.  Went out for a leisure sail with
>> >> family, and the genoa foot fouled on a horn cleat during the hoist.  My
>> >> daughter's boyfriend (big strong kid) kept hauling on the halyard until 
>> >> the
>> >> feed funnel blew apart.  Both halves were still dangling by one of two
>> >> screws holding them together (the other screw blew out somewhere during 
>> >> the
>> >> hoist).  When we got back to the marina I went to take all the parts off
>> >> the forestay to see if I could find replacement screws and re-assemble the
>> >> whole thing, and that's when I dropped the part overboard.  But I'm not
>> >> sure reassembly would have worked anyway because of the broken plastic.
>> >> The lessons: (1) if a sail is not going up like you expect, something is
>> >> wrong, and continuing to haul on the halyard will only break something; 
>> >> (2)
>> >> be careful not to drop shit overboard :)
>> >>
>> >> Cheers,

Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

I bought sails from Rolly Tasker through National Sail years ago.I had a 
problem with one sail and they made good on it.   They sent a replacement.   
For what they are they aren't bad sails.   I even won a couple of races on 
those sails.  I'm now using North sails and can tell a difference in both the 
sails and my checkbook.  

Mike 
Virginia Lee,  93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Mar 26, 2016, at 09:19, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> $1500 is a third of what I paid for my main.  Great price!  My only concern 
> would be, do you have the knowledge to detect design or build flaws?  If you 
> found flaws, what would your recourse be?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Mar 25, 2016 8:35 PM, "Andrew Means via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Hey all - 
>> 
>> As part of the long list of refinements and upgrades we need to make on the 
>> Safari, we’re looking at getting a new main sail from Rolly Tasker via 
>> National Sails in FL. Here’s the details of the quote:
>> 
>> C&C 34 (Does anybody feel like confirming that I’ve got these measurements 
>> correct?)
>> I = 44’
>> J = 14
>> P = 38.25
>> E  = 10.92
>> 
>> Fully Battened Mainsail - Challenge 8.3oz High Modulus Dacron, 2 reefs - 
>> $1,459
>> Comes with leech lines with clam cleats, tell tales, flo-stripes*, and sail 
>> bags. Construction includes triple-stitched seams, large radial corner 
>> reinforcements, with handsewn leather chafe protection.
>> 
>> Seems like 8 out of 10 folks have overall positive experience with RT sails. 
>> There are scattered reports of quality issues, but I’m inclined to see that 
>> as a risk of any production sail loft. Have any of you ordered from them 
>> before? What’s been your experience? I’m inquiring about adding a cunningham 
>> and seeing what our options are for the slugs. Are there other options you’d 
>> recommend I request? 
>> 
>> Before anybody suggests I go to a custom sailmaker to get a super high 
>> quality sail, the price is really what we can afford right now; if we need 
>> to spend more money to get a decent sail then we’ll have to wait another 
>> season or two to replace our (very tired) main. Willing to do that if enough 
>> folks wave us off RT, but hoping this could be a great solution for our 
>> casual cruising needs!
>> 
>> Andrew
>> 
>> *What the heck are Flo-Stripes?
>> -- 
>> Andrew Means
>> S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 MK I
>> Seattle, WA
>> 
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List NAVPOD

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

You can always make the "O" ring to size by super gluing two into one or 
cutting a very large one to size.   Cut at a 45 dog angle at the glue joint.   
That is how we used to do it in the Navy when we didn't have the correct size.  

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee.  1978 C&C 36 CB, Virginia Beach, Va

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Feb 10, 2016, at 11:02, Ron Casciato via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Look for the largest “o” ring you can find and stretch it around?
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 2:39 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Peter Fell
> Subject: Stus-List NAVPOD
>  
> Here’s a bit of a long shot:
>  
> I have an unused Navpod GP131 3-instrument (Raymarine ST60) pedestal guard 
> enclosure. However, I’m missing the gaskets that fit between the pod and the 
> pedestal guard, that incorporate the seal for the cable exit (hope that makes 
> sense). The Navpod guys, Ocean Equipment, aren’t much help – they don’t stock 
> gaskets for this discontinued product and they didn’t respond to the question 
> as to whether or not another model has a compatible gasket (so I’m thinking 
> the answer is no).
>  
> Does anyone out there have a set of gaskets sitting in their parts bin? Or 
> should I just make some up out of neoprene?
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin Folding Table

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Tom,  the table in my 78 was also attached to the mast track.   I've had the 
table out for a while.  When I locate the parts and pieces I'll send pictures.  

Mike 
Virginia Lee  1978 C&C 36 CB 
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Dec 31, 2015, at 22:29, S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I also bought a 1980 model C&C 36 that is in need of TLC, in November of this 
> year.
> The folding table on mine has a plastic pedestal at one end, and is fastened 
> to the mast track at the other.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36 MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
>  
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> - Original Message -
> From: Tom Alessi via CnC-List
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tom Alessi
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 19:44
> Subject: Stus-List Cabin Folding Table
> 
> Hi,
> I'm new to the group. A year ago I purchased a 1980 C&C 36 that's in need of 
> TLC.
> The interior folding table was not in place when I took possession and I was 
> wondering if, in addition to the base attachment, is there an additional 
> fastening system to the mast?
>  
> Tom Alessi
> S/V ANDIAMO
> tagraph...@optonline.net
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List boom/ goosemeck

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Interesting that the same thing happened on my 36 about 10 years ago.  I sent 
my to Metal Mast and had a new one made from stainless in less than a week.   
All the holes lined up and it was less than $400.  

Mike,  
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Oct 23, 2015, at 11:53, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On the sungject of goosenecks, one of the tangs on my fitting on the mast 
> broke off from wear.   I shipped broken piece to Guido at Garhauer and he 
> made new out of stainless to fit perfectly and used same hole pattern so no 
> new holes to tap.  Can't remember cost, but I felt it was cheap at the time.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, October 22, 2015 Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Our gooseneck assembly was a little worn down where the boom fitting rode on 
> the mast base, I put 3 nylon washers in between the boom and the mast 
> fittings and that shut that noise down. I'm still tracking the squeak off the 
> mainsheet and the weird noise the topping lift makes. McLube helps 
> everywhere. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 22 October 2015 at 18:26, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello Harald
>> Mine did that when we bought the boat, ours was noisy when the main was up 
>> though.  The issue we had was that the horizontal pin in the gooseneck had 
>> worn the holes oblong, so they were not a nice fit on the pin any more.  I 
>> bought a couple of brass bushings, drilled out the hole oversized, and 
>> pressed them in with a c-clamp.  This has been quiet for a number of years 
>> now (I think 3, maybe 4, not sure).
>> 
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C&C 35-III #11
>> 
>> 
>>> On 2015-10-22 12:24 PM, Harald Braun via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
>>> grinding noise, once the main was down. I lubed it and still no luck. 
>>> Really annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?
>>> 
>>> Harald
>>> Kitchener, On
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
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>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List List Also looking at a C&C 36 - engine at an angle?

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

This allows you to remove the shaft without removing the rudder.  It also means 
the boat pushes to port while going ahead and pulls to port while going astern. 
  

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 197 C&C 36 CB 93295
VIRGINIA BEACH, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Sep 21, 2015, at 18:17, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The engine is at a small angle because the shaft exits about 4 " to port of 
> center. The shaft has to remain straight to the transmission.
>  
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II 1979 36' cb
> Chesapeake City, MD 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 36 centreboard refit

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

I also own a 1978 C&C 36 CB.  I've owned the boat since 1997 and although  I've 
not  documented all of the work I've done I am very familiar with the boat 
having done a major repair to the chain plates, repower, and rework of the 
centerboard.   There are not many C&C 36's of this vintage however there are a 
number of them on the Chesapeake with 3 being in the Hampton Roads area.   

Welcome to the club. 

Mike
Virginia Lee 93295, 1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Sep 16, 2015, at 19:36, Rino Granito via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Adam,
> 
> Thank you,  and glad to see another C&C 36 owner, I was starting to
> think that this was a one off.  
> 
> 
> Is there somewhere I can see the refit?  I need all the info I can
> get..  But I would be happy to share the pics and write up on my
> rebuild..
> 
> ./R
>>> 
>>> ---
>>> ---
>>> 
>>> Message: 1
>>> Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2015 21:38:19 -0400
>>> From: Rino Granito 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 36 Centerboard 1978
>>> Message-ID: <1442367499.29139.10.ca...@i4see.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>>> 
>>> Good day,
>>> 
>>> I am looking at buying a C&C 36 1978.  The boat does need some 
>>> help,
>>> especially the interior, but other wise is in reltively good shape.
>>> 
>>> Hull, is she balsa cored ? if yes hopefully not below the 
>>> waterline.
>>> Can we find diagrams for this boat ?
>>> Did anyone plumb in Propane ?
>>> 
>>> Portholes and latches   Where shall I begin.
>>> 
>>> If I can pull the trigger on the boat I would document the refit, 
>>> to
>>> the benfit of the ommunity.  I do have a heated well ventilated dry
>>> area for the boat. So I could work on it all winter :)
>>> 
>>> Thanks..
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Painting a Edson Pedestal

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

I did a complete overhaul of mine 10 years ago.   After pricing the cost of 
materials,  not to mention my time I had it professionally powder coated.  It 
cost less, took less time and still looks like it did when I reinstalled it.   

Mike 
Virginia Lee 93295
C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA 

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jul 22, 2015, at 02:39, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Without going through the 99-step process described on the Edson website for 
> painting a pedestal, what products / methods have proved successful? The 
> pedestal isn’t coming out of the boat.
>  
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

List.

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Mar 13, 2015, at 17:32, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have 
> a “Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list 
> (like this one).
>  
> PROS:
> 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list
> 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.
> 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.
> 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.
> 5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and 
> undesirable subscribers blocked.
> 6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view 
> the latest topics since your last visit.
>  
> CONS:
> 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional 
> enhancements.
> 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. 
> ()
> 3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit 
> more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.
>  
> Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It 
> does not matter to me.
>  
> Stu
>  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List salt water siphoning into sink

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

My 36 does this.  My solution is to close the valve while underway,  I wouldn't 
rely on a check valve to prevent flooding.  My Navy experience tells me they 
are prone to failure.  

Mike

Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

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> On Feb 20, 2015, at 18:32, mike amirault via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> On a  C&C 33 mkii, has anyone experienced salt (or lake) water filling up the 
> sink in the head when heeled over hard on a stbd tack? Mine was filling up 
> and overflowing unless the sink plug was in or the drain cock closed. I 
> suppose the proper thing for a seaman to do would be to close the drain cock 
> but this can be inconvenient when cruising. I installed a check valve and 
> this worked but it is not of marine quality and is corroding. I don't think a 
> vented loop will work on a gravity fed drain. Any other solutions?
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Re: Stus-List 34 offshore

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Richard, If It is like my 36 CB it will be a bit tender but I've learned to 
reduce sail early and the boat does just fine.   In fact going to wind with 
less sail has its advantages.

Sail Safe, 

Mike
Virginia Lee, 93295
78 C&C36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> 
>> 
>> From: "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" 
>> To: bren...@highspeedcrow.ca, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 8:50:30 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34 offshore
>> 
>> Brent, Check out the "Sailing Saralane" blog, they have a C&C 40 with a 
>> centerboard and have been cruising for several years now; 
>> http://sailingsaralane.blogspot.ca/
>>  
>> Also the Persuasion Blog, they're from Canada and just made the jump to the 
>> Bahama's; http://persuasion37.com/
>>  
>>  
>> I'm sure there's more.
>> Richard
>> 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>>  
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> 502-584-7255
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> To: C&C List Canada 
>> Sent: Wed, Jan 28, 2015 2:53 am
>> Subject: Stus-List 34 offshore
>> 
>> Happy winter everyone. 
>> I'm just taking a moment to appreciate vintage C&Cs and their ability to 
>> make 
>> dreams come true.  One of my crew purchased a 1984ish 34 CB near Toronto a 
>> little over a year ago, took it across the lake, through the canals to the 
>> ICW, 
>> wintered in Florida and this season successful began exploring the Bahamas.  
>> His 
>> spot is showing him just outside of Nassau and with his adventurous spirit, 
>> who 
>> knows where he'll end up next. He's sailing more or less solo choosing to 
>> tag 
>> along with someone going that way for safety. 
>> Anyone else on the list with the CB version do any offshore cruising? I'm 
>> curious on how they handle a big sea. 
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Brent Driedger
>> 27-5
>> Lake Winnipeg. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List 3QM30 injector lines

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Paul,  contact me off line, mbranno...@cox.net .  I'm fairly certain that I 
have a set of new one I bought and didn't instal prior to my 3QM30 biting the 
dust.  I'll just have to locate them in my workshop.   I'm certain that we can 
make a deal.  

Mike
Virginia Lee, 93295, C&C36 CB

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jan 11, 2015, at 21:44, PME via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I am looking to replace the injector lines on a Yanmar 3QM30.  The old ones I 
> received with my “basket case” of engine parts are in ruff shape, rusty, 
> dirty and in one, blocked up.  I know these are high pressure lines, but I am 
> utterly shocked by what Yanmar is asking for new ones(see the prices from 
> TOAD Marine below).  My guess is that Yanmar no longer makes these.  
> 
> inject. pipe 1121370-59810 $157.70 
> inject. pipe 2121370-59820 $109.96
> inject. pipe 3121370-59830 $820.85 
> 
> Now, nobody in their right mind would pay these prices.  Does anyone have a 
> good source for these(or equivalent straight) injector lines?   
> 
> Thanks for any insight.
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
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Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Tom,  My 36 does the same thing.  It did with a fixed prop and it does it with 
a two blade Max Prop.  I believe I also have an 18" prop but am not sure off 
the top of my head.  If its fairly flat I can get 7 knots.It bothered me 
when I first got the boat but I'm rather used to it now and just accept it as 
normal squat.  

Mike
Virginia Lee, 93295,  1978 C&C 36 CB  

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jan 11, 2015, at 11:54, TOM VINCENT via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36' 
> that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the speed 
> the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speed 
> and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not 
> know the pitch.
>  
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II 1979 36' C&C
>  
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Re: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Paul,  I also own a C&C 36 and lived aboard mine for 3 years while stationed at 
the Pentagon.   You can contact me at ff1...@aol.com for any questions you may 
have.   

I do know that there were two versions of the interior and the one I have is 
not compatible with living aboard.  

What year is the boat?  

Mike

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Jan 6, 2015, at 12:44, wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Paul,
>   I own a 1981 CnC 36.  Contact me off list for general questions on the boat 
> if you like. 
> Bill Walker
> wwadjo...@aol.com
> 
> Sent from my HTC
> 
> - Reply message -
> From: "Paul Wyand via CnC-List" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:
> Date: Tue, Jan 6, 2015 11:22 AM
> 
> Hello all, I am looking at a C&C 36 pretty seriously for a liveable boat. I
> think it will work out for me, but am looking at a few things that may need
> to be done to make the boat comfortable for year round living aboard.
> 
> 1.) Icebox refrigeration, what size is the icebox? I am trying to figure
> out a plan for refrigeration. Anyone that has done this, advice woudl be
> helpful.
> 
> 2.) How can you search the list? Seems you can get the past posts in bulk
> but I don't see any useful search function.
> 
> I am sure I will have lots of questions if I go through with the perchance.
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Re: Stus-List Making a winch backing plate

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Martin,  Where did you get the epoxy board?  

Mike 
Virginia Lee 
1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On May 3, 2014, at 9:01, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Calypso’s new backing plates (replacing 43 year old aluminum) are 2 layers of 
> .030 epoxy board with a thick layer of glass cloth and epoxy in the middle.  
> They sand and paint like fiberglass and will not corrode.  We are filling and 
> back drilling the hardware mounting holes so the risk of crushing the deck 
> core is limited and the backing plates are a back-up.
>  
> We used .030 GR4 epoxy board because the company I work at had a bunch left 
> over from a project and I was able to requisition it.  The mid layer of glass 
> cloth is an easy way to add thickness and strength.  We are able to make 
> custom shapes and thicknesses.  We shape the edges much like Dennis describes 
> below.
>  
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 3:12 PM
> To: CnClist
> Subject: Stus-List Making a winch backing plate
>  
> Just thought I'd share my current project.
> 
> I'm repairing a boat with a ripped off cabin top winch.  The winch was 
> mounted on a pad molded in the deck.  Molded in the deck under the pad was an 
> aluminum disc.  The winch fasteners were tapped into the disc.  The cabin 
> liner was immediately under that.  The winch, pad and disc all separated from 
> the deck.
> 
> Since there was no access to the underside of the pad, there was no easy way 
> to get beneath the pad and add structure for strength.  The plan was to clean 
> up the pad, re-attach it with epoxy.  Simply epoxying the pad down would have 
> very little strength so the winch needs to be through bolted.  (Of course a 
> minor gelcoat repair is required to cosmetically finish the pad.)
> 
> Since the backing plate will be visible from the cabin, it needs to be nice.
>  
> Anyway, I ordered a couple of pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate on eBay.  
> (You can find cut scraps fairly cheap there.)  I used my Bosch jigsaw with a 
> metal cutting blade to size the pad and rough trim the corners.  Then I 
> shaped the corners with a belt sander with 80 grit and then finished all the 
> edges with the belt sander and 120 grit.  The edges were hand sanded with 320 
> grit.  The exposed flat surface was hand sanded with 1000 grit wet/dry then 
> polished with a buffing wheel and polishing compound.  Looks nice!!
> 
> Whole process took about 30-40 minutes.  The winch will be re-installed with 
> washers, lock washers and cap nuts for a nice finished look.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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