Stus-List Re: C&C 35 mk3 shaft line questions

[s/v Prime Interest via CnC-List]

I had a similar problem trying to remove the coupling on my LF38 and I even had 
the benefit of good access to the coupling since it is a v-drive. Fluids, heat, 
gear puller were not successful. After 2 days of work I decided to cut if off 
which took only 20 minutes. I already had a new prop shaft and ordered a new 
coupling too – as Nathan suggested I recommend a split coupling ( I ordered one 
made by R&D ) – so wasn’t trying to save it in any case.

 

I would suggest even if you are successful in getting it off that you purchase 
a new coupling if there any corrosion on the inside surface. A standard 
coupling is not hugely expensive. 

 

The interference fitting is pretty impressive – with the new shaft and new 
split coupling sliding it on by hand was easy but I had to use the gear puller 
to ease if off again. Similarly the face of the coupling vacuumed itself to the 
transmission flange while aligning the shaft and had to knock if off with a 
rubber hammer. 

 

Ed Vanderkruk

Prime Interest LF38 – 1982

Toronto, Canada

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List  
Sent: Saturday, February 3, 2024 11:19 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: keith morgenstern ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
; Riley Anderson ; Nathan 
Post 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 mk3 shaft line questions

 

When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had to 
cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was machined 
to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before tightening the bolts 
that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the spilt  type coupler if you 
get a replacement made.

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C34 Yanmar 3GM 20hp Exhaust Elbow

[s/v Prime Interest via CnC-List]

Some years ago I ordered the non-Yanmar non-ss version of the mixing elbow
with intentions to install it using the old engine fitting and coupling. I
was having a new problem with the engine slowing when engaging the drive and
thought some obstruction might be impacting the engine. Not wanting to spend
extra time trying to separate the coupling and the exhaust fitting from the
elbow I decided to order all the components from HDI. The process was quick
and easy on my LF38 with a 3HM and V-drive as the exhaust is the most
accessible part of the engine. Unbolting it all along with the exhaust hose
from the muffler took about 10 minutes. The hose had to be cut off from the
elbow which was fine as I was replacing the 2' section to the muffle anyway.
The hardest part was wrestling with the new exhaust hose to mould it back to
route to the muffler. 

 

The old elbow was at least 15 seasons old but had no external leaks or rust.
Examining it I would guess it to be 50% constricted for both the water and
exhaust outlets. The engine side fitting only had a bit of soot inside and
rusting at the coupling. The engine fitting would certainly be usable, but I
have yet to try to separate the 3 parts. In the end it didn't make any
difference to my engine struggling when in gear as that turned out to be the
feathering prop not fully flattening to the setting. 

 

 

Ed Vanderkruk

Prime Interest LF38

Toronto, Canada

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2023 7:13 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List C&C34 Yanmar 3GM 20hp Exhaust Elbow

 

Hello Yanmar 3GM owners,

I need to replace the U-type mixing elbow and exhaust elbow assembly on my
3GM 20hp.  If this topic has been discussed here previously, my apologies --
I attempted a search of the archives but not sure I am conducting the search
correctly.

There seems to be debate about stainless steel vs cast iron and welded SS vs
cast SS.  There is a complete SS kit at
https://hdimarine.net/product/gm-kit/ that appears to be high quality and
reasonably priced (for a boat part...).  I will be grateful for any advice
on source for the exhaust elbow/mixing elbow and cast iron vs SS vs cast SS.
Also, advice regarding the replacement job as I will do this myself.
Thanks.

Jeff Laman

1981 C&C34 Harmony

Ludington, MI

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Barient 18 & 19 2-speen non-ST

[s/v Prime Interest via CnC-List]

I have a Barient 18 and a Barient 19 winch to anyone who would have use for
them. Both are 2-speed and not self tailing. The 18 is chrome the 19 is
anodized black. Recently cleaned. Ask for pictures if interested. 

 

Free for pickup here in Toronto or I suppose could arrange shipping at cost.


 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest - LF 38

Toronto, Canada

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List wiring problem.

[s/v Prime Interest via CnC-List]

When you say ‘on shore power’ I assume you mean with the shore charger on. LED 
lamps usually have a broad voltage operating range but I suppose your batteries 
might not be delivering enough voltage to the lamps. Check the voltage when 
only on batteries – at the lamp itself if possible. Do the lamps work / not 
work when you turn on/off the charger?

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

Toronto, Canada

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bev Parslow via 
CnC-List
Sent: April 30, 2020 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List wiring problem.

 

Over the last two months we have had some electrical changes on the boat. The 
pulpit was taken off and repaired. A new led light was put on it. For a Xmas 
present I put in 4 new led cabin lights and they work a treat. The lights all 
work on shore power, but when on battery power these two circuits are blown. So 
lights work on shore but not on battery. Where to begin? Do I disconnect the 
new lights and see if that makes a difference. Thoughts gentle people.

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Re: Stus-List LF Hull numbers

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

On 2/23/2016 9:10 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:

Spencer Johnson:

 From your email signature:
'84 LF38 "Alegria" #165

My LF38 is an '83 with hull number 230.  So, is your year built or hull number 
in error?

Bob Boyer

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer


On Feb 22, 2016, at 9:34 PM, ssjohnson via CnC-List  
wrote:

Spencer Johnson
'84 LF38 "Alegria" #165

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I think I may have passed along a tale sent to me from the original 
owner of Prime Interest - Hull #229 - to Spencer and Bob already but 
here it is again.


'When we contacted C&C sales about a Landfall 38, they had one in the 
showroom. By the time we found financing (TD @ 16%) that one was sold. 
None in stock and next production run not till springtime. Not good for 
us as we wanted to put her in charter in the Florida Keys to help pay 
the bills. The salesman thought he had seen one sitting in the yard in 
Niagara-on-the-Lake but C& C 's inventory showed 'none'. He drove down 
to check the yard and sure enough in the back was #229. notice the odd 
number? This all happened shortly after a bunch of monied hotshots had 
bought out Cassion and Cuthbertson. New management brought layoffs etc. 
Senior staff were given a boat of choice at cost as part of the 
package.The production manager at some point saw the writing on the wall 
and added an additional Landfall 38 to the next batch. Over time work 
orders were added for oversize winches, subtracted after installation, 
same with spinnaker gear, teak ceilings in the bunks etc. Doesn't say 
much for control. However, no one wanted to get rid of the production 
manager.- until the salesman walked in to the office and said "what do 
you mean you don't have a Landfall 38 in inventory?" Our purchase price 
was revise 3 times until I put my foot down. A full audit was done and 
we negotiated the final price. This story is hearsay of course but she 
was called "The Golden Handshake" by the lads on the shop floor while 
she was there.'


Prime Interest was commissioned November 1982 in Niagara-on-the-Lake.


Ed Vanderkruk
Toronto, Ontario

Prime Interest
1982 LF38 #229
QCYC, Toronto


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Re: Stus-List Butyl

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

On 2/10/2016 12:27 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


He will ship to Canada, but it makes little sense (IIRC the shipping 
cost was higher than the butyl tape itself). Try his email, but your 
results will vary.


I shipped it to a friend in the US and then got it across the border.

If you have no other option, probably the best is to ship it to a e.g. 
UPS store next to the border and get it personally. Or order large 
quantities and spread the cost.


Marek

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Sam Wheeler via CnC-List

*Sent:* Tuesday, February 09, 2016 21:35
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Sam Wheeler 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Butyl

I can't speak for international shipping, but I placed on order 
yesterday for some butyl from Compass Marine (aka Maine Sail) to San 
Francisco and got a shipping confirmation email today.  Should be here 
on Thursday.


Sam

C&C 35 mk III

On Tue, Feb 9, 2016 at 4:30 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


As a heads-up (only if you are _not_ in USA, I hope)  ...
unfortunately several attempts to contact Compass for a shipping
quote on Bed-it went unanswered. YMMV of course.



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I just placed an order for Bed-it being delivered to a US drop-off and 
was filled within the day. As I only have use for one of the two rolls 
if anyone would like to buy the extra send me a note. To keep your cost 
down arranging pickup in downtown Toronto is probably easiest. With a 
bit of luck it might be brought back here next week but otherwise it 
will be mid-March.


Ed

Prime Interest

1982 LF38

Toronto, Ontario

primeinter...@gmail.com <mailto:primeinter...@gmail.com>

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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

Some years ago while looking at Silent Running it looked like it was
manufactured by the same folks as QuietCoat ( see
http://www.quietrock.com/quietcoat ) which was a quarter of the cost and you
could special order it from Home Depot. They don't seem to carry it any
more. Also, it only came in black if you were looking at the one gallon
size.

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2014 3:01 PM
To: CNC CNC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

 

Curious...is all the effort worth it?

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



  _  

Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2014 11:13:12 -0700
To: muckl...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Noxudol makes a sound-deadening paint similar to Silent Running but much
cheaper. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 27 August 2014 06:50, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

The inboard side and ceiling were uninsulated on mine and when I re-did it I
left them uninsulated.  I used a "sound down" kit from jamestown
distributing.  I cut and dry fit the foam panels and used the included mylar
tape to seal the raw edges.  The kit came with tack down pins.  They are
aluminum and have a 2"x2" backer that is supposed to be nailed or screwed in
place   I epoxied them.  The kit also came with a spray adhesive which I
sprayed after the epoxy was dry.  Push the foam over the tack pins and then
install the mounting washers and caps.  Seal all the corners with more mylar
tape.  Done.

Pictures upon request.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 26, 2014 12:32 PM, "Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List"
 wrote:

I have replaced the old, crumbling sound insulation in the accessible parts
of my engine compartment with new sound insulation from West Marine.
However, there is almost no room on either side of my Yanmar in my 30 MKII.
Getting new insulation in along the sides is going to be very difficult. I
am contemplating just taking out the old insulation from the sides of the
engine compartment and going without. Does anyone think this would be a big
mistake?

 

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Re: Stus-List Seacocks

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

Aqualarm makes a variety of alarms for bilge and engine monitoring. 

 

The exhaust monitor I have is part 20245 'Wet Exhaust Overheat Alarm Kit' 

 

http://aqualarm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info
<http://aqualarm.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=11
> &cPath=5&products_id=11

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

From: Dr. Mark Bodnar [mailto:drbod...@accesswave.ca] 
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2014 8:32 PM
To: Prime Interest; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Seacocks

 


Seems like my temp alarm is not working.  I'll be trying to check that issue
out in the near future.  For now I have a point an read temp sensor that
I'll have on the boat to check how things a running the next few times.

I'd be interested to learn more about your exhaust hose temp sensor.

Mark




 
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 26/05/2014 11:31 AM, Prime Interest via CnC-List wrote:

Mark,

 

I'm surprised that your temperature alarm didn't eventually go off at some
point in your adventure. Maybe something to check if you didn't get the
alarm.

 

You should probably check that the water pump impellor hasn't lost any vanes
when running dry and now stuck in your heat exchanger. Also check that your
lift muffler and hoses have survived the hot exhaust. 

 

I have an independent temperature alarm on the exhaust hose which will
activate well before the engine temp alarm alerts you of a similar coolant
problem.

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

 

On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List  wrote:


OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and
new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be
working smoothly.

Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller
furler was jamming for a bit.
Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good
(exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).

Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to
a nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).

10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down.
Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.

We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the
coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the
seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!

Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our
coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low
rpm and made the run to the cove.

Little hitch at the end.  Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not
enough line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail.
Solved that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around
the forestay! Dirty, but it worked.
All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock.
Had pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I
better pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway.

I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized
I was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little
splash.

Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely
remember the seacock in the future!

Mark






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Re: Stus-List Seacocks

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

Mark,

 

I'm surprised that your temperature alarm didn't eventually go off at some 
point in your adventure. Maybe something to check if you didn't get the alarm.

 

You should probably check that the water pump impellor hasn't lost any vanes 
when running dry and now stuck in your heat exchanger. Also check that your 
lift muffler and hoses have survived the hot exhaust. 

 

I have an independent temperature alarm on the exhaust hose which will activate 
well before the engine temp alarm alerts you of a similar coolant problem.

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

 

On 25 May 2014 20:13, M Bod via CnC-List  wrote:


OK. Boat got off the dock today. After a bunch of engine work, new hoses and 
new fuel tank (all installed by mechanic) everything is supposed to be working 
smoothly.

Well. Getting off the dock was not so smooth. Couldn't sort out why roller 
furler was jamming for a bit.
Finally sorted the issue, started the engine, made sure all looked good 
(exhaust a little louder than I expected, but not bad).

Off we went (had a friend along to assist moving the boat from the marina to a 
nearby cove where it can stay an extra week).

10 min out I see some smoke riding through the companion way. Throttle down. 
Full off engine cowling. Coolant everywhere! Must have a leak.

We turn around to limp back to the dock. I'm looking at the mess with the 
coolant boiling over when I realize (OK remember mechanic warned me) the 
seacock for the engine is CLOSED!!!

Opened the seacock.  Everything cooled off. We had burned off much of our 
coolant - so I poured in a 1/2 litre water bottle. Kept the engine at low rpm 
and made the run to the cove.

Little hitch at the end.  Went to furl the jib but too much sail and not enough 
line on the furling drum. Only managed to pack away 2/3 of the sail. Solved 
that by doing 10 clockwise circles in the bay to wrap the sail around the 
forestay! Dirty, but it worked.
All told we survived. Feel like a royal idiot for forgetting the seacock. Had 
pretty good water shooting out of the muffler after - but I figure I better 
pull the impellor and check/replace it anyway.

I had checked the exhaust when we started - saw splashes. But later realized I 
was looking at the air exhaust hitting the water and causing a little splash.

Still a little shell shocked from the experience but thinking I'll likely 
remember the seacock in the future!

Mark





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Re: Stus-List Mixed batteries

[Prime Interest via CnC-List]

The Echo Charger has an input and an output side. As Rich mentions the input
side is connected to the batteries which are receiving the charge via
alternator and charger. The output side connected to the battery which
typically has no other charging source. The additional comments are that the
primary charging sources and the EchoCharge input be connected to the house
side and the EchoCharge output to the starting battery. The EchoCharge is a
one-way thing . input to output charging. Edd, in you example I think the
normal setup would be to take the alternator to #1 and EchoCharge to #2 (
the 'input' from #1 and 'output' to #2 ). You can still have some combiner
set-up for emergency house/starter switching.

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

cid:image001.jpg@01C8A05F.9AF64FF0
LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
Schillay via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixed batteries

 

Rich,

 

I think I get it now. If I have my starter battery as #2, I
start the engine with #2 only (not ALL). This echo-charger could take the
Alternator charge going into #2 and also charge #1. 

 

Do I have that right? 

 

If so, I gots me some wiring to do.. 



 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> 

 

On May 5, 2014, at 2:52 PM, Rich Knowles  wrote:





In short, an Echo Charge is a simple regulator that derives it's input
voltage from a battery connected to a charging source. It's output is
connected to a secondary battery such as an engine start or windlass
battery. If the input voltage rises above 3.4 volts, as I recall, the 

Rich


On May 5, 2014, at 14:10, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
wrote:

Marek,

 

Very interesting. What exactly is an echo charger and how would
I connect it? 

 

The previous owner had two house bank 31s and a starter battery
hooked up parallel to one of them. That starter battery turned out to be
dead and was dragging the other down. 

 

I replaced all with two new 31s about 4 years ago. Now one of
those two is dead and I don't feel like dumping $300 on a replacement when
I'm not running on batteries for more than a few hours on any given day. 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> 

 

On May 5, 2014, at 1:01 PM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:





Edd,

 

I don't want to start a discussion on how to charge the batteries (as this
would be off topic), but starting from the ALL position has some major
disadvantages. One is that you might be hiding a problem with your starting
battery; two is that if one battery is weak, you would be charging that weak
battery from the strong one (you risk that if one is nearly dead, the other
would not start the engine, either, but instead would discharge to equalise
the voltage with the weak one).

 

No question (in my mind),  the best way is to start from the starting
battery (hence the name) and have the echo charger making sure that both
batteries are charged properly. 

 

Some advocate to have the batteries split into "main" and "spare". Many good
marine batteries can be used as dual purpose. If you design your system this
way, you start on the "main", it gets charged by the alternator and the echo
charger maintains the "spare".

 

If I remember correctly, you have a solar system, as well. Many charge
controllers have a dual battery option and they can be setup to charge the
"main" battery first and then charge the "spare" (mine has a selectable
50/50 or 90/10 split).

 

If you are interested, you can check some of Main Sail's articles on that
topic at Sailboat Owners or at his web site
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/). 

 

Marek (in Ottawa)

 

PS. Would "may the Force (May the 4th) be with you" apply, even if it is a
day late? I know it is mixing the references...

 

From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 10:58 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixed batteries

 

Rich, 

 

Please do send around a diagram. I'm planning to do something similar - a 27
starting battery

Re: Stus-List Packing size 1 1/8 shaft

[Prime Interest]

Thanks David/Wally/Rob

 

I found similar reference to 3/16” packing as I was running into difficulty.
I have the first ¼” ring seated into the nut using the method described by
Rob in another thread  but while it seemed to be in deep enough to attempt
the second ring that one was binding on the threads and I couldn’t get far
enough to get a bite on the threads again. 

 

Went to West Marine today and picked up some 3/16” packing.

 

 

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Monday, April 21, 2014 10:04 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Packing size 1 1/8 shaft

 

>From emarineinc
(http://www.emarineinc.com/categories/GFO-Marine-Shaft-Packing/)


Shaft Size

Packing Size


3/4"

3/8"


7/8"

5/16"


1"

1/4"


1 1/8"

3/16"


1 1/4"

1/4"


1 3/8"

5/16"


1 1/2"

1/4"


1 3/4"

1/2"


2"

3/8"

 

On Apr 20, 2014, at 8:43 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:





I used 3/16 on my 1-1/8 shaft.  Buck Algonquin stuffing box.

Wal

primeinterest wrote:



Any thoughts on what the typical packing size is for a 1 1/8" shaft?



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David Knecht, Ph.D.

Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility

Department of Molecular and Cell Biology

U-3125

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

University of Connecticut

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

860-486-4331 (fax)





 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/Riser

[Prime Interest]

Thanks everyone

 

Lee Valley still lists UHMW but no longer the off-cuts. This will work for
me .

 

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 2:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/Riser

 

>From the Lee Valley website:

 

3 lb Assortment of UHMW Pieces

This product is no longer available.

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Apr 14, 2014, at 11:22 AM, Sam Salter  wrote:





i'd use UHMWP (ultra high molecular weight plastic)

If you're in Toronto, there must be a Lee Valley close by:

 

 

http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/page.aspx?c=&p=43210&cat=3,43576,43581

 

You can buy 3lb of off cuts at Lee Valley for $12 and change.

 

Cuts and drills easily with simple tools. Virtually indestructible.

 

Sam Salter

C&C 26  Liquorice

Ghost Lake  Alberta

 

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Stus-List Cam Cleat lifter/Riser

[Prime Interest]

I have a couple of Garhauer cam cleats I want to add to my traveler lines.
To align them better with the height of two winches on my coach roof I'd
like to raise them up. If I took one to extreme it might be 1.5 inches - the
other 0.5 inches. 

 

Not sure about the bolt/screw alignment to other manufacturers risers but I
could look at a small DYI job. Question is what material to pick and where
to source it here in Canada. Teak would be the obvious choice but are there
any man-made materials - i.e. maintenance free. I believe McMaster-Carr
still doesn't ship to Canada. 

 

As an aside I notice Garhauer has a 20% off sale on rope clutches and vangs
until April 30th.

 

 

 

Ed

 

1982 C&C Landfall 38

Prime Interest

Toronto, Canada

 

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Re: Stus-List wiring projects

[Prime Interest]

In both cases the properly sized  fuses protect the circuit wiring in the
event of short circuit and protecting the attached component.

 

In your first example a small amperage inline fuse is protecting the
smaller/finer electronic wiring and the monitor component. Your breaker is
likely a 15A one which could easily risk overheating or fire on a small
gauge wire. 

 

In the second example, similar discussion but here there is no breaker in
the picture and ABYC requires fusing of all circuits connected to the
batteries. Again this protects the wiring assuming the wiring is sized to
handle up to the 30A limit - check various sites to ensure your wiring is
sized correctly based on the length of the run ... One could debate whether
another fuse is required closer to the solar panel side also .  

 

I think getting some in-line fuses/holders is the easiest for both of these
projects.

 

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2014 8:41 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List wiring projects

 

I have two wiring projects to complete this weekend and I have questions
about fuses:

1.  The holding tank monitor I bought from Fred shows a fuse being wired
between the power source and the monitor gauge.  Since the power is coming
from a breaker on the main panel, is there any reason to add this fuse as
well?

 

2.  I am also wiring my new solar panel to a Sunsaver Duo controller and
then to the two batteries.  Their diagram shows a 30A fuse wired between the
Duo and each battery.  They did not supply these fuses with the kit.  Is
there a rationale for those fuses?  

Thanks- Dave

 

David Knecht

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Prime Interest]

There are two ABYC requirements for new boats- one being the GFCI
requirement ( 5mA trip specified  ) for the receptacles in wet areas and the
second being ELCI breakers on the shore power feed which typically have a
30mA trip. Both are required.

 

I installed the Blue Sea ELCI when I was updating my A/C side last year and
haven't had any nuisance trips. I have both charger/inverter and hot water
on the boat.

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Heaton
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 5:40 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

 

Hey Edd,

 

I wouldn't put one GFCI inline from the shore power.  It would need to be
large and expensive (2 pole, 30 amp) as you will end up running everything
through it including the heating element in the hot water heater and your
battery charger.  Also, many modern battery chargers may cause it to
nuisance trip frequently.

 

The GFCI in an outlet is cheap, effective and obvious if it trips as they
will usually have a small LED indicator on the face and only the circuit
that is tripped (and the outlets downstream) will go dead, not the whole
boat.  I think your boat has two breakers in the AC panel for the AC outlets
so you will only need two (or possibly three, depending on how the wire is
run) GFCI's to do the whole boat.

 

I think the level of safety these GFCI provide for very little money is
worth it.  I'm not sure how the ABYC requirement for all new boats is
written so I don't know if dong it this way will cover it.

 

Ken H.

 

As Dennis C. said:

 

"Look at the GFCI receptacle you are installing.  It should have two pairs
of hot/common connections and one ground.  One pair will be labeled "Line"
and one pair "Load".  The "Load" connections are protected.


The correct wiring should be from your supply (breaker) to the pair marked
"Line".  Downstream receptacles should be wired from the "Load" pair.

Also, make sure you get the black (hot) and white (common or neutral) wires
on the correct connectors for all connections.

 

Dennis C."

 

On 1 April 2014 14:08, Edd Schillay  wrote:

Listers,

 

Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I'm redoing the entire AC system of the
Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you listen
carefully, you'll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island this
weekend as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying to
snake wires.  

 

As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets or
last? Or does it not matter? 

 

Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power
instead? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/> 

 


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Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

[Prime Interest]

A local sail maker might be able to lone you a set of their sample slugs -
they usually have an assortment kit for repairs.




Ed

Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry
pearson
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII

Its not a strong track, i wish it were. it fits inside the internal grove on
my mast, Ive searched the internet and have not been able to identify what
it is. its a white plastic liner that fits inside the internal mast groove.
Its is getting brittle and has broken off several times on the lower edge,
creating all kinds of problems. my groove is round yet has a flat groove on
the outer edge of the internal round groove, if that makes sense. I'm at the
point now that I'm considering ordering several flat and round slugs to see
what fits. Dwight, I'm taking that your using flat slides, what does your
mast groove look like?

Thanks,
Terry
On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:19 AM, dwight  wrote:

> Rick
> 
> I can hoist the main sail on my 35 MKII to within at least 2 feet of 
> the top without a winch or strong track.  My main sail is equipped 
> with polymer slides that measure 1.47" long by 0.87" wide by 0.31" 
> thick, measured as carefully as I could with the sail rolled and pack 
> in its bag and these work very well in the as manufactured aluminium 
> track.  I also have to deal with the added friction involved with 
> leading the halyard through turning blocks to the cockpit.  I can 
> raise it all the way to the top without winch if I or someone else 
> pulls the halyard where it exits the mast.  I cleaned and sanded the 
> track in the mast at the same time as I sanded my mast a few years 
> back and I don't use any lubricant on the slides.  The sail does not 
> fall like the blade of a guillotine again because of friction on the 
> halyard from the turning blocks but I consider that a good thing as it 
> aids me in a controlled packing the sail without having to deal with 
> all the sail laying on the deck to start with... I don't have lazy 
> jacks or my Dutchman system installed and I usually end up packing my 
> mainsail alone the way I like it done, hopefully training it to fall the
same way every time.  Maybe I am just a very strong man for my age.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Rick Brass
> Sent: March 25, 2014 11:33 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1986 33MKII
> 
> Before you even think about removing the "slide" track, go on line and 
> make sure it is not a Tides Marine Strong Track.
> 
> If it is a strong track, it is one of the better upgrades that could 
> have been done on your boat. Performance is far better than you will 
> get from sail slugs in an internal track. I can hoist the main on my 
> 38 to within about 2 feet of the top without putting the halyard on a 
> winch. Sand if you let the halyard go, the sail comes down like the blade
of a guillotine.
> Periodic maintenance is to flush the rack with dish soap and fresh water.
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:12, Terry pearson  wrote:
>> 
>> On my 33MKII mast, the previous owner placed a nylon (or 
>> similar)slide in
> the mast track. I want to remove the "slide" track and go back to the 
> original sail slides for this mast, but I cant seem to find anything 
> telling me the proper size. the track appears to be able to 
> accommodate either round slugs or flat slides.is this possible? I 
> tried measuring the slide slot and it appears to be 15/16th wide flat
slide .can anyone confirm this?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Confused:=)
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - cruising & showering

[Prime Interest]

Prime interest has the u-shaped galley, no separate shower, the single
quarter berth and nav station.

I'd be happy to show it to you sometime.





ed

Prime Interset
1982 Landfall 38
Toronto, Ontario

On Monday, February 24, 2014, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I only just realized that there was a layout available for the Landfall 38
> that had a U-shaped galley, more interior woodwork and most impressively, a
> separate shower. I've been discussing our needs with the admiral and we're
> in agreement on the requirement for a separate shower so the Landfall has
> now captured our attention. Looking at boats on yachtworld it appears that
> only LFs made after 82 had the separate shower, is that true or was it a
> layout that was always available?
>
> Our 32 doesn't have a shower and the head is tiny. I couldn't really
> imagine taking a shower in there at all. Showers are probably a point of
> interest when you're swimming in salt water every day??? Seems that the LF
> also carries over 100 gallons of fresh water .. having never showered on a
> boat I don't know if this is enough for a rinse off every day? How often
> are people showering with fresh water when away in remote anchorages in the
> Caribbean? Or other warm climates? I have no experience here.
>
> I also wanted to ask the owners of the LF 38s which layout you have and
> what you like about it, and what you don't like about it? Have you done
> much long term cruising or living aboard? Wally, I've read most of your
> articles and I know you installed the U-shaped galley, I guess I assumed
> all Landfalls were that way.
>
> The landfalls are a good value. I laid out a bunch of options in the "when
> to go cruising" thread and one of them is certainly taking our boat up to
> Georgian Bay and keeping it there. A Landfall would serve well on Georgian
> Bay as well as being enough boat to do some long term cruising on. We
> haven't yet figured out how we're going to take off forever so it looks
> like that plan will have to wait a while. In the short term however, moving
> our boat to Georgian Bay is looking like a win/win in the short term.
>
> Stevesta
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
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Re: Stus-List List Wiring an inverter (iDevices)

[Prime Interest]

The BlueSea socket is somewhat less  efficient assuming a 12V socket is 100% 
efficient. The Bluesea is converting from 12V to 5V for the USB socket with 
some loss along the way. Limiting the amps too … 2.1 amps typical for a 
charging port. I would assume BlueSea is using the same electronics you would 
find in any 12V socket adapter with USB ports you might find but in a permanent 
wall mount.

 

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 C&C Landfall 38

Toronto, Canada

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Anderson
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 5:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List List Wiring an inverter (iDevices)

 

Folks,

How much more efficient is the Blue Sea charger than a standard 12volt socket? 
I do like the sleekness of the Blue Sea.





Tom Anderson

C&C 32 Nonpareil

Marblehead, MA





Message: 13
Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:12:24 -0600
From: Frederick G Street 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List List Wiring an inverter (iDevices)
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

The lit on the Blue Sea says it?ll supply 2.1A, so it should charge an iPad, 
although it?ll take a little longer than the 2.5A Apple charger.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

[Prime Interest]

I installed and used this USB socket last year . it is barely able to keep
up charging the iPad when it is at full brightness as it might be during
daylight sailing. I bought a cheap 3 Amp 12V converter / USB plug to
hard-wire-in near the helm station for less than $10 from China.  I do have
a 2.5M iPad adapter cord which might come into play but I'll see how 3A
works out .

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 12:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

 

As an aside, charging tablets and phones doesn't necessarily require an
inverter. One could go with something like this:

http://ca.binnacle.com/p8953/BLUE-SEA-1016-DUAL-USB-CHARGER-2-SOCKET-5V-2.1A
MP/product_info.html

 

Phones and tablets are DC, why convert and convert again?

 

I'm looking into DC power supplies for the laptop as well. So far we haven't
need AC but I do have a portable inverter on board just in case.

 

I charge my tablet and phone off of the car stereo I installed at the nav
station (it has a USB port). I'm considering that Blue Sea unit just as a
nice to have but the project list is long with higher priorities.

 

Steve

Suhana, C&C 32

Toronto

 

On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 12:11 PM, Della Barba, Joe 
wrote:

I used to have rolls of 2/0 gauge wire for hooking up batteries and
inverters. We did a lot of 1500 watt units and a few 2500 and 3000 watt
versions.
I would suggest most boats carry two of them. 1000 watt units are cheap
enough now at Worst Marine for heavy loads like shop vacs and other tools.
Then get a second small inverter, say about 100-150 watts, for device
charging needs. Large inverters are not efficient when powering tiny loads.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 11:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

My Admiral's hair dryer is 1875 watts on high power setting, so it would
draw over 15 amps AC, and 170 amps DC to power the inverter. That needs like
size 0 battery cables from the battery to the inverter?

I just looked at the things I customarily run with my inverter. PC charger =
1.5 amps. Cell phone charger = .5 amps. Tablet charger = .3 amps. Portable
AC fans (one of them is in the back room waiting to go back to the boat) =
.5 amps each.

The total current draw can add up pretty quickly. And as I said in an
earlier post, providing 8 amps of AC would exhaust my 4 battery 460 AH house
bank in less than 2 1/2 hours.

My point is: figure out what you want to power with it and then chose your
inverter and battery bank size accordingly.

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring an inverter

When I used to be in that business we divided the AC panel into "inverter"
and "non-inverter" sections to keep things like water heaters and battery
chargers from running from the inverter. And no - you can't use a battery
charger and an inverter to make a perpetual motion machine. Prime reason for
inverter purchases back in the day used to be for hair dryers and blenders.
Everyone wanted battery powered air conditioning, but few boats have the
room for enough batteries to support it.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List Navigation Software

[Prime Interest]

Although not navigation software ( I have iNax also ) I sometimes like to
play around with iRegatta Pro on my iPad. I'm not a racer but it has
interesting start timers and start line tactical information . I got it out
of curiosity as it draws polars for your boat. To do this it needs to be fed
from your wind instruments. I have an old Nexus 1 setup and takes the NMEA
0183 feed to a ShipModul WiFi multiplexer which streams GPS/AIS
Receiver/Nexus instruments ( wind and depth ) to the iPad to be used by iNax
and some other standalone apps like iRegatta, Watcheye AIS .. also streams
to a laptop running OpenCPN.

 

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 Landfall 38

Toronto, Canada

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 9:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation Software

 

I use iNavX on my ipad and haven't actually pulled out a paper chart in more
than two years (15,000 miles). I still carry the paper charts but haven't
used 'em. It's the only plotter I use on my boat.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

 

On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 8:43 AM, Nonpareil Racing 
wrote:

Steve et al,
Have you considered using an ipad with Navionics or another brand of
software?

Tom Anderson
C&C 32 Nonpareil
Marblehead MA
81 days to launch
9 days to BVI cruise
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-- 
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260 

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Re: Stus-List Inverter to Shore Power

[Prime Interest]

The inverter will ( should ) bind the A/C neutral and the A/C ground making
it as safe as is can on an insulated/isolated boat system. 

 

In the other thread ‘Wiring an Inverter’ remember to ground the inverter
case also … this should be mentioned in the installation instructions for
your inverter.

 

Using a power cord to jumper the inverter to the shore power inlet saves the
need for significant A/C main circuit changes but you can’t be tempted to
make this A/C connection permanent into you’re A/C panel without the
introduction of a selector as suggested by Dennis. Normally you might also
split the A/C side to have a set of circuits which is only be powered by
shore power and those you are willing to power by inverter … hot
water/charger/AC vs cabin plugs, microwave. All this probably more than you
want to do at this moment.

 

 

 

ed

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 12:08 AM
To: 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverter to Shore Power

 

No, he was talking about making an adaptor to replace the shorepower supply,
which would be safe but ultimately draining. Sure you can do that, but why.
Invest in a safe and sane balanced electrical system . 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 

On 17 February 2014 19:46, Gmail  wrote:

You need a selector switch to isolate the inverter from shore power. If you
connect the output of the inverter to your receptacles and then hook them to
shore power, you will likely destroy the inverter. 

 

Dennis C.

Touché' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA 

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 17, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Daniel Sheer  wrote:

Can I connect the outlet of the inverter to the shore power inlet socket
(using an adapter of course)? I don't see why this would be a problem, but
what do I know. Even if I left the converter on it would just waste power, I
think. The advantage, of course, is that all of the AC outlets on the boat
would go live.

Thanks for advice.

Dan

 

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Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Prime Interest]

I'm placing an order with Fred shipping here to Toronto also . there may be
small savings on the shipping cost if we shipped it to one address and we
picked it up locally. Might have to work out any HST upon delivery amongst
us.

 

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa
Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 4:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

 

David I'm in the same boat. I'll let Fred respond regarding shipping. I'm in
Toronto and will be purchasing the three sensor version myself. If you read
the tech documentation they say that the units can be calibrated for all
shapes and manners of tank. In practice I'm not entirely sure how well it
will work but the few reviews I've found online seemed very positive.

 

Steve

www.sv-suhana.com

Toronto

 

 

 

 

On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 2:56 PM, David Blair  wrote:

Fred I was wondering if you are able to ship to Canada for this equipment?
If so I'd like to be able to monitor the holding and water tanks.  Quick
question - with the under setee water tanks they are long, angular and hull
shape conforming. Do you think that mounting the strip on the end of the
tank would be effective (I'm thinking the lowest 25% of the depth probably
has only 10% of the water)..Tx

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
G Street
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 9:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

 

I've gotten set up with the Tank-Edge guys as a dealer.  If anyone's
interested in their monitors, I can get the Smart Mini with one sensor for
$115 plus shipping, and the iSeries Standard (marine version with conformal
coating) with three sensors for $185 plus shipping.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Feb 8, 2014, at 8:41 AM, Indigo  wrote:

 

I would be interested in a smart mini version for my holding tank

--

Jonathan

Indigo C&C 35III

SOUTHPORT CT


On Feb 7, 2014, at 23:12, Frederick G Street  wrote:

I'm thinking of signing up to be a vendor for these guys, if anyone's
interested in getting them at dealer pricing.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Feb 7, 2014, at 9:57 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

 

I've worked on/installed some that used capacitance to measure levels; the
one used on the Hunters used to be the Snake River system.  I think they
might have been bought up by another company; no Google hits for them, but
rather for these guys:

 

https://www.tankedge.com/

 

These systems are nice - self-stick a pair of conductive strips vertically
on the outside of plastic or fiberglass tanks, and connect the terminal
blocks; then wire to the panel.  Unfortunately, they won't work on metal
tanks.  But no internal parts to get gummed up in the holding tank.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 


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Re: Stus-List Swageless lifeline system

[Prime Interest]

Defender.com ( still ) has some of the Suncor kits on sale.

 

We replaced our lifelines with Suncor a few years back - easy and seems to
be holding up fine.

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 C&C Landfall 38

Toronto, Canada

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
Cheuvront
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2014 7:02 PM
To: CnClist
Subject: Stus-List Swageless lifeline system

 

Some of you may already know this but Suncor has swageless lifeline
fittings.  Their Quick Attach fittings are reusable.  You keep the fittings
and just replace the wire every few years at your discretion.  No special
tools, just a few hand tools which you probably already have.

Looks easy.  Here's a site:  

http://www.unicornstainless.com/products/lifelines/?gclid=CMTZrKjlx7wCFUqSfg
odRy0AUg

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

[Prime Interest]

Take a look at 

 

http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm 

 

the $19,900 C&C 32 .. photo #2

 

 

 

 

ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 C&C Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John
Russo
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain

 

Thanks Bob, that would be helpful.

 

John

 

johnrussob...@optonline.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Abbott
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain

 

John

Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not
surecan send you a pic offline if you want.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote:

 

I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting
the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above
the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor
mount and  a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which
I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after
cutting. Any thoughts?   I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a
little less HP.

 

John

Arpeggio 32

Norwalk CT 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Electronics - was Re: Setting GPS Waypoints

[Prime Interest]

I've used my iPad for navigation on the Great Lakes using iNavx on an iPad 
without a SIM card and thus no cell service. Not sure whether Navionics 
requires a cell/internet connection to update chart information but iNax loads 
the regional maps so can operate in a unconnected manner.

Although I have location, AIS and boat instruments feeding the navigation 
application via a ShipModul Wifi multiplexer the iPads GPS works well enough by 
itself.



ed
Prime Interest
1982 C&C Landfall 38
Toronto, Canada


> On Jan 16, 2014, at 8:40 PM, Brad Crawford  wrote:
> 
> Andrew,
> I have used my iPad most of the time as a chartplotter also, using Navionics, 
> we also carry back up paper charts.  So far our long distance trips have been 
> to the San Juan islands and Gulf Islands of British Columbia.  Just out of 
> curiosity, how far off shore have you used your iPad as a navigational tool, 
> and have you always had cell coverage.
> 
> Brad
> C&C 36
> Dora Pearl 
> Seattle
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jan 16, 2014, at 6:19 AM, Andrew Burton  wrote:
>> 
>> Since getting my iPad a couple of years ago, I haven't pulled out a paper 
>> chart once. As you say, It's a great tool.
>> I have to admit that my sextant hasn't accompanied me on a passage since 
>> about 2007 or 50,000 miles ago. I carry spare GPSs, but in the back of my 
>> mind always is the possibility that the whole system may go down and then 
>> what do I do? Well, I'm pretty confident of my ability to keep a good DR and 
>> EP, and in my ability to stay out of trouble when approaching a shoreline if 
>> I'm not confident of my position (which is pretty much always).
>> 
>> The bottom line is, I think that learning piloting--coastal navigation, 
>> etc--is a higher priority than learning to use a sextant. 
>> 
>> One little trick when approaching a shoreline without a position fix for 
>> some time is to steer to one side of where you want to go. That way when you 
>> see land, you know which way to turn to make your port. So if I want to get 
>> to Charleston, I may aim for Hilton Head and when I see  land, or it starts 
>> getting shallow, I know to turn north in order to get to Charleston. If I 
>> aim straight for where I want to go, and miss, I'm not sure which direction 
>> to turn, the land being pretty featureless from offshore. This tip is 
>> courtesy of Chichester from when he was flying his Gypsy Moth biplane.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>> -- 
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>> Newport, RI
>> USA 02840
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Prime Interest]

Since you are able to get some pumping action when using the drill I would
concentrate on the water supply or discharge side of the pump or something
wrong with the impellor key-way. It would have to be a significant gasket or
cover problem to let enough water bypassing to cause a total discharge
failure issue into the engine - although there might be something
constraining the impellor but you've proved to yourself with the drill that
it is capable.

I usually have to raise the antifreeze level ( from my bucket with hose ) to
above the waterline to get it all starting smoothly and reasonably rapidly
during the winterization - once started it pumps at capacity. Adding the
antifreeze through the raw water strainer works OK but I wasted the
antifreeze trying to keep the water level near the top ... wasting a bunch
down the bilge. The bucket/hose method feeds into the hose disconnected from
the strainer then flows to the pump. Can get a couple of gallons through in
less 30 seconds or so.


Ed

Prime Interest
C&C 38 LF
Toronto, Canada
QCYC

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Connon
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2013 2:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

Group,

On haulout this year I noticed water drops from the seawater pump. I changed
the bearings and seal and afterwards the pump would no longer self prime. I
changed the impeller and was able to pump water using a
600 RPM half inch drill but the boat motor would not self prime and pump
anti-freeze through the system.
I want to buy a new cover, gasket and cam but can't come up with the proper
part numbers. A call to the nearest Yanmar dealer did not help but I assume
that it is a Johnson pump ( from what I found on the web ) and it was using
a Johnson 827 impeller.
The motor is a 3GMF from 1985and the impeller is 2" OD x 7/8" wide and has a
1/2" bore with a keyway.
All help with getting the proper part numbers would be appreciated.

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List replacing steaming light Now Mast Wiring

[Prime Interest]

Awhile back I acquired a Hella unit ( 8504 ) when it was on sale for an
exceptional price but not yet installed. Significantly larger than what it
is replacing but seems to be a quality piece of kit.

 

Prior to launch next year I'll be re-wiring the mast and was looking for
comment on using conduit ( or not ) or some other method to affix the bundle
to reduce mast noise. I think the mast section has a slot running up the
interior which seems like it might be used at least part way up the mast. 

 

Let's say you're using conduit - how do you account for wires to the
foredeck/steaming light? Two sections of a single run with a gap at the
light .. two separate conduits? Maybe the steaming light wire outside but
strapped to the conduit.

 

Typical bundle of wires - masthead nav lights ( 5-wires as it has
all-around, tri-light, strobe and light for Windex ), VHF ( using LMR 400 UF
coax ), masthead instruments, foredeck/steaming.

 

This is for a 1982 Landfall 38. 3 internal halyards - one for an inner
forestay which might give us an obstacle on the way up if we're going up the
front of the mast but maybe the back of the mast is preferred in any case.
Double spreader so two compression posts to get past - running back-stay
fittings but I don't think there are compression posts. And the top plate of
the mast is welded on so have to work through the hole from the masthead
instruments.

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
dre...@gmail.com
Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2013 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light

 

Dennis,

 

Thanks for the info.  Another question:Are
you happy with the Aquasignal?I was deciding between the Forespar ML-2,
Hella 8505, and the AquaSignal Series 25.   I  decided on the Hella based on
some bad reviews I found online for the other two.   The Forespar had
reports of top lens falling out while tacking and the AquaSignal was stated
as not having any spray protection for the deck light bulb and so bulbs
corroded and died prematurely.   

 

 

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL 

 

On Sep 5, 2013, at 10:49 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:





Message: 10
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2013 07:49:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Dennis C." <  capt...@yahoo.com>
To: "  cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing steaming old light
Message-ID:
  <1378392591.1503.

yahoomail...@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Paul,

If it is like the one on Touche's mast, I abandoned it.? It was that same
Perko all around light mounted on a metal "donut" welded to the mast.? I
installed an Aquasignal Series 25 combo steaming/foredeck light a bit above
the old fixture and dropped new wires.? 

I'm guessing the Aquasignal would fit over and hide the existing donut once
you remove the Perko light if you wanted to mount it in the same spot.? You
could use the existing wires to pull the new wires.

On a side note, Touche's pole topping lift exited another of those "donut"
things above the steaming light.? I have also abandoned that and installed
an exit box with sheave for the topping lift.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




 

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Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue

[Prime Interest]

>From your description I believe you have both positive and negative leads
from your solar controller attached to your starting battery. Thus the shunt
from your Link20 on the starting battery side sees energy 'leaving' the
starting side although this is actually net new energy from the solar array.
It seems to the Link20 the starting side is losing Ahs which happen to be
moving over to the house side.  Interesting that the (-)500AH from the
starting side ( aside for actual starting ) represents the AH your solar
array contributed over the week.

If the negative is not on the battery side of the shunt this theory doesn't
hold up ...

Peter's discussion below is how things should be set up ... 


ed

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar
Horvatic
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue

Solar panel is not charging via the Link "house bank" shunt. Seeing that its
link 20, you should have two shunt resistors, one for the house and one for
starting bank.  You should be very careful wiring stuff to battery terminals
themselves.  I know many folks have it that way, but you have permanent
loads and permanent charging, dual battery monitor. You should really have
high amperage buss bar for + and -.  This high amperage buss bar is where
controller terminals should go. Battery terminals should be free of
miscellaneous connectors. Only heavy gauge lugs should be there to join
batteries, and then one jumper to a properly sized fuse for your bank
consumption.  There should be no loads or chargers hooked to the battery
before the fuse. Other side of the fuse goes to a high amperage buss bar.
Negative side should only connect to a shunt resistor. There should be
nothing connected the that side of the shunt resistor.Other side of
shunt resistor should go to negative bus bar.  Since you have link 20, that
goes for both of your banks.  
Sounds like your isolator switch is bypassing the house shunt.  Likely
connecting to battery directly.  
I have link 10 (one shunt), I don't monitor starting battery AH.  My
starting bank is lead acid and has different charge topology from the house
AGM deep cycle.  I use the both position on the house main switch in
emergencies only when engine won't start.  AH used to start the engine like
that do not show up on Link monitor.  
  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of BRUCE
BOLTON
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List LInk monitor and solar panel issue

I just installed two 100 watt Arenco panels through an MPPT controller ...
and it works very well, very happy with the output. I've got 320 amp hour
AGM house battery bank and a 120 amp hour starting battery connected through
a battery isolator switch (can keep them seperate or connect them into one
big bank). Link 20 monitor function for solar panels has been switch "on". 

The issue: I connected the controller output to the starting battery
(because of the size of the terminals on that battery), keept the battery
isolator switch in the "connect everything together" position and what
happens is the house bank shows charging via the solar panels, but the
starting always shows a discharge.  I don't know why ...  On a recent trip
of a week without shore power the solar panels almost keept up with demand
(fridge/freezer on all the time) maybe a minus 50 amps at the end of the
trip on the house bank, while the starting battery showed a minus 500 amps
at the end of the trip!

I believe that this is simply a link monitor issue and that this is
(obviously) not reality.  Any Ideas on what can be done to get the link
indicating correctly would be appreciated. Perhaps when the battery banks
are not isolated the link then reads this as one bank only, and the starting
one is just recording the amount of power pulled from the bank over time ...

Thanks for any feedback!

Bruce Bolton
C&C35III
Apple Tree

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Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

[Prime Interest]

We've also had experience where there was not enough backstay tension
causing the foil to sag giving the impression  of 'stop, turn, stop' as you
fight the curve.



Ed

Prime Interest
1982 C&C 38 Landfall
Toronto, Canada

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Ultrafurl - sticking

It could be as simple as too much tension on the forestay. If you try and
furl with your backstay cranked tight, that can make any furler bind.

Bill Bina


On 7/15/2013 9:08 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
> Hi All.
>
> It seems the drum on my ultrafurl is sticking. I know that other C&Cs 
> used this furling gear so I was hoping for some feedback from other 
> ultrafurl owners. I dropped the swivel down and it is fine so I'm 
> blaming the drum. It needs a lot of coaxing to turn and it will turn, 
> then come to a stop, turn, then stop, turn then stop .. etc. The 
> energy required to turn it is quite high, I have to go forward and 
> manually turn the drum to furl or unfurl the sail. How can I 
> troubleshoot this? I'm nervous that this will require some forestay 
> action but I'm hoping not.
> According to their site it can be installed without dropping the 
> forestay so I'm hoping I can take it apart too. It's an Ultrafurl 500.
> I'm waiting on an email back from ultrafurl.
>
> Any ideas?
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>


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Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

[Prime Interest]

>From an earlier note :

"Hi,

I just wanted to point out that many of the Yanmar exhaust parts are
available at much more reasonable price.   For example, the common mixing
elbow (124070-13520 Mixing Elbow) which  Bob pointed out lists for $270, can
be purchased much cheaper from several vendors.   I purchased one recently
for $69.95 from MMI Seattle.

See:

http://www.mmiseattle.com/e/manifolds_e_hge_yanmar.htm
   and here for more details
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/YAN-D-EXH/Exhaust+Parts+for+Yanmar+Diesel+Inboa
rds

Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL "

Ed Vanderkruk
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle

Someone had a source of Yanmar exhaust risers (other than Mack Boring). My
old black pipe version decided to rust apart yesterday. I have it patched
for a while, but that is going to be a short term solution.

Before I build a new black pipe version, I would like to check out a 'real' 
one.

Gary Nylander
Yanmar 2QM15.
- Original Message -
From: "Kim Brown" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 3:57 PM
Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle


> Don
> Hard to tell as I also had the fresh water pump replaced and assorted
> hoses/belts, along w/ replacing the knuckle, clean and tighten exhaust 
> elbow
> etc.  Looks like the parts bill includes $50/each for the new tips and
> another $12/ each for the assorted bits -washers, covers etc associated w/
> injectors. 1.5 hours for shop work- replace tips, clean, paint @ $85/hr.
> plus he came to me, pulled them and reinstalled them- testing compression 
> on
> his way through. All in it was $700 labor/travel time and $400 parts. In 
> my
> youth that would have been 11 boat bucks but being an experienced boater I
> now know it is barely more than 1 boat buck (US or CDN). And it was 
> well
> worth it - purrs like a new engine.
> Kim Brown
> Trust Me!!!
> 35-3
>
> _
>
>
>
>
> From: "Don Jonsson" 
> To: 
> Subject: Stus-List Overheating due to plugged knuckle
> Message-ID: <003f01ce5001$9250c7c0$b6f25740$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi Kim
>
> Thanks for this.  It is what I'm worried about.  The boat has started to
> blow extra smoke on start and I'm thinking unburned diesel. It also blows
> smoke when you idle down for a bit and then rev up again.  Once warmed up 
> it
> seems fine. I've got a mechanic coming in a couple of weeks (they are 
> backed
> up here in Victoria).
>
> What I worry about is the slippery slope on an old engine.  It is 1981 
> with
> around 1800 hours and raw water cooled.  It runs fairly nicely but.  I
> also worry about the cost of a new engine which would not materially 
> change
> the value of the boat - as people were saying earlier - boats cheap, parts
> expensive.
>
> How many boat units did getting the injectors cost if you don't mind
> sharing.
>
> Don
>
>
>
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> 



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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3GM30F Belts (Joel Aronson)

[Prime Interest]

I ordered online from GTA Auto a couple of years back ... this was after
Canadian Tire indicated they could no longer order the 17405 belt into stock
..  I had been using theirs for years. 

That part number I ordered was a Dayco Gold Label 17405 ... which is a 40.5
inch belt and 17/32 wide. These are actually working out better than the
Canadian Tire belts and were only modestly more costly.



Ed
1982 C&C Landfall 38

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH
Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 2:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3GM30F Belts (Joel Aronson)

Thanks, but I would like a known part# that someone knows actually fits. 
Torreson shows several replacement part numbers, one of which is the one I
listed below and it's too small.
How confusing is that?


Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON





--

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:29:05 -0400
From: Joel Aronson 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3GM30F Belts
Message-ID: <-7352184101948921277@unknownmsgid>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Try Torrensen.com for the part number.

Joel Aronson


On Apr 22, 2013, at 12:08 PM, OldSteveH  wrote:

> Hello all, I went to a local industrial equipment vendor last year to 
> buy some parts for my 3GM30F engine. They're a Yanmar dealer albeit 
> for industrial engines, and they quoted very reasonable prices, and 
> are also right here in town as opposed to driving to Toronto.
>
> Between us we got most of the part numbers right except for the 
> alternator belt.
>
> Here is the part number I ordered and found is too small: 25112-003601
>
> The raw water pump belt was ok though.
>
> Can anyone offer a part # for the alternator belt? The one negative 
> about the industrial dealer is they will order whatever you tell them 
> but they don't know the engine configuration and so cannot advise 
> whether it's the right part.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Steve Hood
> S/V Diamond Girl
> C&C 34
> Lions Head ON
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
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> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com



--


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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

[Prime Interest]

I occasionally read through the forums ( archives ) of the attached 

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/

http://www.kollmann-marine.com/Refrigeration/

generally informative and interesting reading the submitters questions and
problem solving by the authors extensive technical knowledge. He has
particular biases to certain setups but seems to be well thought out.



Ed

Prime Interest
1982 C&C 38 Landfall
Toronto, Canada



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 11:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 1985 Refrigeration Help

I did a lot of research about refrigeration, and weighed a lot of
alternatives before I selected and installed mine. One of my considerations
was low power consumption for use while cruising full time.

There are a lot of alternatives out there. Most use the same model of
Danfoss compressor, and the power consumption seems to be in about the same
range for the majority of systems. A water cooled system seems to have a
slight advantage over the air cooled systems when the ambient temperature
gets up in the summer. But at the cost of increased plumbing, complexity,
and maintenance. Of the water cooled systems, I was drawn to the option of a
"keel cooler" - a bronze plate on the outside of the hull that serves as a
heat exchanger so you are not pumping raw water for cooling - and one setup
that puts a heat exchanger into your sink drain hose just above the through
hull fitting.

One really neat system I was sold on installing, but did not use, was called
a TropiCool 40. It used carbon dioxide for a refrigerant, and had to be
installed such that the condensed coolant was gravity fed from the
compressor to the evaporator inside the ice box. And a part of the power for
the compressor was provide by a sort of Sterling exothermic engine that used
the heat from the gas leaving the evaporator to generate power for the
compressor. Neat system with very low power consumption. Complex technology,
but packaged to be a plug and play installation once you set up the proper
geometry between the evaporator and compressor. 

The key to a good installation, as Wally pointed out, is to insulate your
existing icebox. That can be a pain, but is the only real way to get the
power consumption to be reasonable and the beer cold. I have between 1 and 4
inches of foam around my ice box, depending on the available space. More on
the open side of the box nearest the engine, and canned foam filling the
void between the icebox and hull. I've thought about adding something like a
space blanket to the surface facing the engine space to add to the
insulation value.

I ended up getting a Norcold icebox conversion kit. Norcold is most familiar
for making small refrigerators for RVs and dorm rooms. They make a kit for
installation in boat iceboxes that has an air cooled and automatically
converts from 12v to 120v when you plug into shore power. The
compressor/condenser is about 10x14x20, and is installed in the starboard
lazarette just aft of my icebox. My installation uses the cowl vents left
over from the days when my boat had an A4 to provide additional cooling air
to the condenser coils. The Norcold has no freezer capability, but will keep
the ice box at about 40 degrees below outside air temp. And BTW, one of the
prime reasons for getting the Norcold system - in addition to a
recommendation from a cruiser I knew - was that the cost of the kit was
under $500 at the time I bought it.

Hope this helps.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-

On Apr 8, 2013, at 2:05 PM, Raymond Macklin  wrote:

> I bought a C&C 33 1985 last year and the boat did not come with the 
> refrigeration equipment.  I would like to get it going to avoid 
> another summer of carrying the cooler around.  I have the icebox but 
> nothing else.  Any help on what I should be getting and where to get 
> it from.  Thanks Ray - Libertyville,IL



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Re: Stus-List Sailing where it's warm (Was more LF38's)

[Prime Interest]

Our LF38 Prime Interest had this modification - but only about 1.5 ft.

 

There are some photos spread through the blog www.primeinterest.blogspot.ca
but looking at the 2006 Year archive for a collection of shots. These and a
few in-water shots show the pinched stern. The PO added space as a propane
locker ( 2x11lb ) and allowed for a bit of extra space to add the wind/radar
arch. This refit included the new stainless and toerail over the new
addition.

 

 

 

 

Ed Vanderkruk

s/v Prime Interest 

1982 LF38 s/n 229

Queen City Yacht Club

Toronto, Canada

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2013 9:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sailing where it's warm (Was more LF38's)

 

Pete,

 

I don't own a 38, but I'd love to see pictures of the "butt job"!  Did you
enlarge the cabin and cockpit?

 

Joel

35/3

Annapolis

 

On Wed, Mar 27, 2013 at 11:51 PM, Capt. Pete  wrote:

Hi all,

 

I have recently been following some of the threads on this site and would
like to get more involved. I am original owner of 1979 LF 38 #8 and would
really like to correspond with other LF 38 owners. I am going thru another
refit of vessel and am always looking for new ideas. There is very little
left from the original boat, new engine, new steering, new mast, rigging,
sails, new cockpit sole, added 2 1/2 feet to stern, and much, much more. 

 

Pete Gustafson

S/V "Bold Response"


Sent from my iPad

 

 


On Mar 26, 2013, at 5:27 PM, Frederick G Street  wrote:

Yes, I was early into that discussion.  Somebody needs to get down there and
keep Wal in line.   :^)   . or at least help him drink his tequila.

 

I just did a Google search for "Landfall 39 For Sale Mexico" and didn't come
up with anything.  The Yachtworld listing is gone.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Mar 26, 2013, at 4:21 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:





Speaking of sailing where it is warm, Fred, weren't you one of those who
reacted to the suggestion of getting a group together to buy and share the
C&C 39 that was for sale in Mazatlan, Mexico?  There was some initial
interest and a number of comments, but the discussion seemed to peter out. I
was interested enough that I researched a couple of examples of a partner
agreements, and someone else suggested a good place to base the boat.

 

I wonder if it is still for sale?

 

I could get next to having access to a boat in Baja for a month or so each
winter.

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Rainproof case for iPad

[Prime Interest]

The Mountain Equipment Co-op has a reasonable selection . www.mec.ca under
Electronics / Waterproof Camera and Electronics Cases . I have the $30
e-case for iPad.

 

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick
H. Wesley
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 1:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Rainproof case for iPad

 

 

Want to use iPad as backup with Navionics, is there a good rainproof case?
Not looking for one to protect iPad if it fell overboard, just in open
cockpit (C & C)
.-- 

Patrick H. Wesley

4068 Licorice Lane, Victoria BC Canada V8X 0A2
1 250 370 0547; mobile 1 250 380 8959

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Re: Stus-List 35 mk-3 for sale ....

[Prime Interest]

I got notification of a new listing this morning for a 1984 35-3 . no
personal knowledge of the boat.

 

http://www.boats.com/boat-details/C%26c-35-3/141655861

 

 

 

ed

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck
Saur
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 11:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 35 mk 111 purchase pending!

 

Hello experienced list-ers...I am looking at a 1985 C&C 35 mk3, and noted a
small crack in the keel-to-hull joint.  It's where the lead attaches to the
fiberglass.  I have read in older posts that this is "fairly normal".  I
have had boats in the past do this with external iron and lead...but that
was many years ago.  Is this a problem in anyone's experience?  Would it be
a "deal breaker"?  Are there other issues to watch for?  Thanks...new to
this list and would appreciate advising...  cs  

 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow COSTS

[Prime Interest]

These aren't Yanmar OEM parts ( HGE manufacturer ) but I too will look into
getting one of these shipped to Canada. Will still have to order Yanmar
elbows, gaskets etc for the exhaust side complete replacement.

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 


LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2012 10:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow COSTS

 

That's way better than any other prices I have seen. Is the area price
protection not being enforced any more? Do they really ship to Canada?
Inquiring minds want to know. 

On 16 November 2012 14:57, Rich Knowles  wrote:

That's better than I can do. 

Rich Knowles

Indigo. LF38

Halifax


On 2012-11-16, at 18:41, dre...@gmail.com wrote:

Hi,

 

I just wanted to point out that many of the Yanmar exhaust parts are
available at much more reasonable price.   For example, the common mixing
elbow (124070-13520   Mixing Elbow) which  Bob pointed
out lists for $270, can be purchased much cheaper from several vendors.   I
purchased one recently for $69.95 from MMI Seattle.

 

 

 

See:

 

http://www.mmiseattle.com/e/manifolds_e_hge_yanmar.htm

   and here for more details

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/c/YAN-D-EXH/Exhaust+Parts+for+Yanmar+Diesel+Inboa
rds

 

 

 

 

-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL 

 

On Nov 16, 2012, at 5:23 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:





Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2012 13:56:30 -0400
From: Robert Abbott < <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar exhaust mix elbow pluggage question/survey
Message-ID: <50A67E4E.60300@ <http://eastlink.ca/> eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

Rich et al:

When I quoted $533 for the whole assembly I meant 4 pieces not just 
one...those being, 128370-13610 Elbow = $208.62; 104214-13580 Joint = 
$46.06; 128370-13201 Gasket = $7.87; 124070-13520 Mixing Elbow = $270.93;

I would be interested however in getting your quote info on the mixing 
elbow with the water inlet that connects the 2" hose to the muffler
Regards
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

 

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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Engine

[Prime Interest]

Some folks at our club have used a similar setup but they do it without any
hose disconnection. They have a bucket with a hose at the bottom to catch
the exhaust and route it back externally to the raw water intake with a
length of hose with a valve attached to a short section of piping with a
toilet bowl plunger acting as a seal to the outside hull. Two or three
person job to 1) hold the bucket 2) hold the plunger to the hull 3)
start/stop the engine. They let it run until warm or whatever the owner
wants - also catches most of the antifreeze from getting dumped into the
yard. They move from boat to boat adding antifreeze to the bucket for each.



ed

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Wooden
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 1:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Engine

I think I do something different than most people...   I have an Atomic 4
gas engine, but would not be afraid to try this with a small diesel; this
process ensures that all the raw water passages are flushed with antifreeze.

  -   Rig up a suction hose to the raw water pump.  I use a short section of
garden hose
  -   Have a cheap 5 gallon bucket with maybe 2 gallons of antifreeze in it

  -   Fill the hose with a funnel to avoid the impeller running dry even for
a few seconds
  -   Hang the bucket from the transom (done on the hard) so it "catches"
the antifreeze from the exhaust  I use a short piece of line over the stern
railing
  -   Run the engine until everything is up to temperature (maybe 5 - 10
minutes, the raw water cooled A4 takes a while to warm up)
  -   At the end, just before engine shutdown, pull the hose from the bucket
and (use a funnel) pour a gallon of fresh antifreeze into the hose
  -   Shut the engine down as the last of the antifreeze is sucked into the
engine
  
Since I run the engine and circulate the antifreeze I don't worry about
thermostats, water muffler drains etc.  I have done this for 6 years now (in
Wisconsin, yes it gets cold here) without any issues.  You can use the same
technique to run the engine in the spring with water to ensure it still
starts/runs (if you are paranoid).  It is really easy to rig up and allows
you to run the engine any time you want "on the hard".   In the spring, if
you wanted to run the engine for an extended period you could put a hose in
the bucket and keep if full instead of catching the exhaust water.

Just an alternate way to winterize that I had not heard anyone talk about...

Bob Wooden
Rhapsody
C&C 27, Mk III, 1975




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Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F

[Prime Interest]

That’s the general idea. I have a bucket with a fitting and hose attached
near bottom edge. The hose fits inside the raw water hose taken off the
seacock. I set the bucket on the quarter berth, fill it up and start the
engine. I’d be surprised if this took more than a minute but in any case
wait for the antifreeze to show up in the exhaust. The advantage of the
bucket is the extra hose length and you get benefit from having it above the
normal waterline.

 

I then open the drain valve/stopper on the bottom of the raw water filters
for the winter. You can decide if you want to take out the impeller for the
winter. 

 

 

 

ed

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sébastien
Lemieux
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 10:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F

 

I'll be winterizing my 2GM20F for the first time tomorrow (saturday) and
would like some advices on the practical way to fill up the raw water
circuit with antifreeze.  I plan on detaching the intake tube of the raw
water circuit from the seacock and putting it in a bucket filled with
antifreeze (I'm aiming for 2 gallons, is that enough?).  Then, I assume I
need to start up the engine and wait until antifreeze comes out from the
exhaust thruhull.

 

Should I just crank up the engine (with decompression lever open)?  If I
need to start the engine, how long should I expect to it?  Do you leave the
tube in the bucket unattended while you stand near the control panel to stop
the engine?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain



 

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Re: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

[Prime Interest]

We replaced the linelines on Prime Interest with some Suncor Quick Attach
system kits plus some additional fittings. All 316 stainless - we chose the
un-coated line. Took a better part of an afternoon to finish off the project
which included 3 gates. Defender.com had ( and still does ) good pricing on
the kits. 

 

Other option could be C.S. Johnson fittings ... with Amsteel for no swaging.

 

 

 

thanks

 

ed vanderkruk

 

 

s/v Prime Interest

1982 C&C 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 


LF 38, S/N: 229

 

primeinter...@gmail.com

www.primeinterest.blogspot.com

 

 

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 12:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Lifelines and Stanchions

 

Hello All.

 

My deck project has evolved enough so that I can contemplate re-installing
the stanchions and lifelines.  I want to use uncoated stainless wire, so the
obvious question is, do I need to worry about chafing on the stanchion
itself, as the wire would have the same hardness.  Are there soft
sacrificial inserts such as nylon, polyethelene, etc, or do I need to
manufacture something?

 

Also, 304 or 316 for the wire? 

 

Finally, terminal hardware?  Any suggestions? Would prefer to use something
swageless...

 

Thanks to all in advance...

 

ALEX GIANNELIA

 

CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED

ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006

Toronto Ontario

 

 

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Prime Interest]

I have a serial-to-USB adapter which I've used for some basic testing . I
have a DB9 female side which I have alligator clips wired on the pins to
attach to the NMEA wires of interest.

 

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/search.asp?keywords=seri
al+usb

 

You can use a basic terminal emulator to watch the traffic or get one of the
GPS utilities pointing to the com's port of the adapter.

 

 

 

 

ed

 

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

I keep old IBM ThinkPads around for boat duty ;)

 

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Frederick G Street
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

Really, when was the last time anyone saw a new laptop with a serial port?
:^)   Although I am a dyed-in-the-wool Mac guy, I keep an ancient HP/Compaq
Windows XP machine around just because it has a real serial port on it...

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

On Sep 21, 2012, at 1:17 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:

 

Have you tried a laptop? Use the serial port and read the data directly to
see what you have got.

 

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Prime Interest]

If your older chartplotter was able to support AIS sentences ( !AIVDM: ) a
multiplexer could remediate the baudrate for you but now you would have to
be careful as not to lose input data. In my cruising ground of Lake Ontario,
with the few number of AIS targets, it would keep up with only minor
occasional buffering. In a busy port the data rates could easily overrun the
4800 baud limit that might be required for input to the older device.

 

 

 

ed

 

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Bill Coleman
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 8:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

Agreed, my understanding is that I need at least 2.0 to provide that
sentence.  The techie from Raymarine told me that My Chartplotter was NMEA
1.5 and the radio would not read anything below 2.0, thus the problem. I can
buy a separate antenna from  Standard to solve that problem, but I already
have the NMEA at the radio, so a converter even for 120 bucks would be a
tossup but much less work. Showing AIS on my chartplotter is not in the
cards, as It will not accept the 38400Baud from the radio. But I can at
least see it on the radio and handset and set alarms.  

Assuming the ship has their AIS on.  Another lister, Jeff whom I know is
lurking here found out after our annual fall cross-lake race Saturday nite.
Coming in after a 62 mile (if it was a straight line!) race, coming up to
the R2 buoy, a 750' freighter nearly ran him over in the dark with NO AIS,
sounds like an interesting story, maybe he will elaborate. Hopefully he has
changed his underwear by now . . .

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

Erie

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 7:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

It isn't the version - it is the sentences.

http://www.gpsinformation.org/dale/nmea.htm#nmea

 

You need the GPS to output a sentence the radio can read. 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK 1

www.dellabarba.com

CRYC

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Thomas
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 7:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

I have been seriously considering getting one of those radios myself.

 

The GX2150 documentation suggests that you should be able to configure it
get GPS data from an NMEA 0183 source into the radio without a converter, if
that is all you are trying to do. 

 

If you are planning to use an external display for the AIS data as well,
then it appears to get complicated. 

 

I will be interested to hear how your installation works out.

 

Steve Thomas

C&C27 MKIII

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 7:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

am looking for a filter to convert NMEA 0183 Ver 1.5 to a higher version to
bring GPS from an older Raymarine RL80CRC Chartplotter into a new Standard
Horizon GX2150 VHF.

Has anyone ever done this, or know of  a place that sells these?

 

Thanks

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0- multiplexer

[Prime Interest]

An interesting thought - the mux would usually expect the USB to be
connected to a computer with drivers and software but maybe this would work.
I assume that power is not supplied out of the multiplexer as it is normally
expected to be connected to a computer . additionally power to the
multiplexer is not through the USB either.

 

There is GPS NMEA software capable of doing the filtering/versioning to
different NMEA versions but would need to have the computer available at all
times to act as the multiplexer. Cheaper ( assuming you had a computer
already aboard ) and workable if you continuously have it on for other
navigation purposes. 

 

In my case I have a Shipmodul wifi mux with NMEA inputs from my GPS and AIS
receiver and outputs to the VHF ( wired ), USB if I wanted, and wireless to
my iPad with iNavx and some AIS apps and laptops where I happen to run
NavMonPC and other tools to look at the NMEA sentences and such. I'm working
on getting the instruments ( older Comnav/Nexus ) into the entire ecosystem
- I think I might have problems being successful with this. The ShipModul
multiplexer doesn't have NMEA version conversion but supports your typical
functions found on most of these devices.

 

 

ed

 

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 10:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0- multiplexer

 

Interesting idea.  Would a Globalsat BU-353 USB GPS adaptor connected to a
Brookhouse multiplexer through its USB port work?  Would the sentences be
sent through the multiplexer to the users?  Does the multiplexer USB port
have power for the BU-353 like my laptop?

 

Not sure why one would want to do this but curious if it would work.

 

Dennis C.

 


  _  


From: Prime Interest 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2012 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

 

Brookhouse multiplexers have NMEA version conversion. I had a similar
problem trying to get gps sentences working from an older fixed gps to a new
Uniden VHF. I took a cheaper option and bought a small handheld Garmin and
connected to the VHF NMEA wiring.

Were I to do it again I might get a standalone GPS receiver ( maybe a
globalsat BR355 or similar ) which would power up with the VHF. A $60
solution but needs a 5v power supply.

 

 

Ed

 

 


On 2012-09-20, at 7:16 PM, "Bill Coleman"  wrote:

am looking for a filter to convert NMEA 0183 Ver 1.5 to a higher version to
bring GPS from an older Raymarine RL80CRC Chartplotter into a new Standard
Horizon GX2150 VHF.

Has anyone ever done this, or know of  a place that sells these?

 

Thanks

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 

 

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Re: Stus-List NMEA 0183 Ver.1.5 to 3.0

[Prime Interest]

Brookhouse multiplexers have NMEA version conversion. I had a similar problem 
trying to get gps sentences working from an older fixed gps to a new Uniden 
VHF. I took a cheaper option and bought a small handheld Garmin and connected 
to the VHF NMEA wiring.

Were I to do it again I might get a standalone GPS receiver ( maybe a globalsat 
BR355 or similar ) which would power up with the VHF. A $60 solution but needs 
a 5v power supply.


Ed



On 2012-09-20, at 7:16 PM, "Bill Coleman"  wrote:

> am looking for a filter to convert NMEA 0183 Ver 1.5 to a higher version to 
> bring GPS from an older Raymarine RL80CRC Chartplotter into a new Standard 
> Horizon GX2150 VHF.
> Has anyone ever done this, or know of  a place that sells these?
>  
> Thanks
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 
>  
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Re: Stus-List Thru Hulls/seacocks

[Prime Interest]

Was curious about this . turned up this picture. This the one?

 

http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196165

 

You can do a search on 'landamore seacocks' as mentioned in that article.

 

 

 

 

ed

 

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012 8:50 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Thru Hulls/seacocks

 

Steve,

 

That was my feeling on the discharge.  No, the seacock looks more like a
giant syringe.  You pull up on the T handle to open, push down to close.
I've looked on Google images and can't even find one similar.  

 

Joel

On Tue, Sep 11, 2012 at 8:41 AM, Stevan Plavsa 
wrote:

I would think that a bilge pump discharge should always be above the water
line. Are you talking about tapered seacocks? Like this:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tapered_cone_seacocks

 

That site has other howto articles about seacocks. I imagine everything
anyone would need to know about them.

 

Steve

C&C 32

On Mon, Sep 10, 2012 at 4:51 PM, Joel Aronson 
wrote:

Thanks to you guys, my summer projects are done!  Its nice to see through my
hatches and lean against my life-lines without worrying about their
condition.

 

In the bow of my boat I have 2 seacocks that are a plunger type with a T
handle on a rod.  When closed they are flush with the bottom.  they passed
the survey, but I'm wondering how to service them and whether they should be
replaced with a traditional seacock.  Also, the discharge for my emergency
bilge pump is through one of the seacocks (along with the intake for the
head).  Shouldn't that be above the water line?


 

-- 
Joel 
301 541   8551

 

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-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List How can I tell where a boat was made?

[Prime Interest]

I had assumed my LF38 was built in NotL but our boat seems to be a special
build as the sail number ( 229 ) is out of sequence for the rest of them.
The HIN is ZCC. I'll double check the builders file I have.

 

 

 

ed

 

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Jim Watts
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 12:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List How can I tell where a boat was made?

 

That was my impression, I hadn't heard of any built in NOL.

I would try and find a boat built while Barry Carroll was on vacation.







On 30 August 2012 20:59, Frederick G Street  wrote:

I'm pretty sure ALL of the LF38s were built in Rhode Island.

 

-- Fred



On Aug 30, 2012, at 8:09 PM, Gary Johnson  wrote:

I'm very close to purchasing a 38 Landfall and am wondering if it was
constructed in Ontario or Rhode Island.  It is a 1983 vintage and have been
told that you can tell by looking at the Hull #.  What am I looking for in
the hull # ? Also, can anyone tell me if there is a significant difference
in the quality of build between the boats built in RI and those built in
Ontario?  Any other advice?  I have sailed many different C&C's (33R, 38
Mark II, 37R, 40, 115) and like them all.  Just want to be an informed
buyer.

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-- 
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Isaac..Dauphin Island Without Power Thanks to Runaway Boat

[Prime Interest]

Not sure if this link was submitted . sorry if duplicate

 

http://www.local15tv.com/mostpopular/story/Dauphin-Island-Without-Power-Than
ks-to-Runaway/TiNG7p_wUEacS97IJ9Ro5Q.cspx

 

Nice video

 

 

 

 

ed

 

 

  _  

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 7:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Isaac..prepping for storm and surge

 

I was amazed at the number of boats in my marina that rode out Isabel with
full canvas up! That hurricane had to be the most forecast hurricane ever -
it basically went ruler straight right at us for days.

For the hurricane last year I grabbed a mooring in Annapolis. Much easier
than adjusting lines all night and the boat stays into the wind. The
harbormaster said no one was supposed to use the moorings, but then he
left...

 

Joe Della Barba

 

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Jack Brennan
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 5:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Isaac..prepping for storm and surge

 

The winds in a category one hurricane won't do that much. Where I live in
Southeast Florida, some people don't even board up their homes unless it
looks like the eye is coming right at them. 

 

I saw plenty of boats that survived category one conditions in 2004-5
without any preparation at all.

 

However, Isaac was a very wet storm when the outer bands passed through here
the other day. I'm holding my breath, like everyone else, hoping that the
levees hold in the New Orleans area. And, if the water level gets too high,
docks break up and boats end up all over land. Twenty inches of rain would
do a lot more damage than 75 mph winds.

 

The difference between a category one and, say, a three, is impressive. You
can walk around outside in a one for a quick look if you're curious and
careful. Not so with a three. Sections of roofs are flying through the air.
Tree limbs are lethal weapons.

 

A five, forget about it. South Miami-Dade looked like Beirut during the
civil war after Andrew. Concrete walls were knocked down. Two-by-fours were
driven through palm trees. I have a friend whose family survived by huddling
in a bathtub with a mattress over them as their concrete block home broke
up. 

 

 

From: elev...@grayinsco.com 

Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 5:14 PM

To: cnc   

Cc: cnc   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Isaac..prepping for storm and surge

 

Basic storm preparation will go a good way towards saving one's boat. At
least I can sleep well knowing I tried. I also have the pictures of my
efforts if the insurance company needed proof. Our slip lease requires
removal of canvas and extra docklines in the approach of a tropical storm.
An e-mail reminder of the lease provisions circulated at the end of last
week. It will be interesting to see what results.

 

Ed

Dreamgirl, 

30 Mk 1, #19

 

 

 



-cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com wrote: - 

To: 
From: Steve Thomas 
Sent by: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
Date: 08/28/2012 03:42PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Isaac..prepping for storm and surge

Some people seem to think that if they have an insurance policy then they
are relieved of all responsibility for reasonable and
prudent precaution.
It is an attitude that needs to be discouraged.
 
Steve Thomas
 
-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On
Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 11:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Isaac..prepping for storm and surge



Around here about 50-60% of people do NOTHING L

Keeps me and everyone else that stays on their boats busy.

 

Joe Della Barba

 

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Prime Interest]

Checking the in-flow and out-flow hose temperature to the heater by hand
might eliminate a couple of possibilities. You can compare the temperature
relative to the engine hose coming into the engine thermostat. 

There is a possibility that there is a vapor lock in the heater hose -
depending on the relative height of the heater to the engine this might come
about if there was work done on the system or if there is a lower level of
coolant which let air into the HW system. 



ed


-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Greg Sutherland 
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:57 PM
To: CandC 
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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