Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Sorry Stu,
Forgot to trim the email of previous input!
sam 
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Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the replies!
I sail on Ghost Lake in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains of Alberta. 
Obviously it’s fresh water and cold as the lake is glacier fed from the 
mountains. I never have growth on the prop and I don’t think lubrication would 
make much difference. But I was wrong once in ‘53 :-)

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


On Mar 4, 2021, at 2:56 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Did you mean 80F?  80C would be tough sailing.
Ron


On Thursday, March 4, 2021, 01:16:56 PM CST, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I have a 3 blade Bruntons Autoprop. Even with all the shiny ball bearings on 
the hub for each blade it never gets grease or any other lubricant. Water here 
in NS is cold and salty. Some barnacles attach themselves to the hub during 
summer water at my mooring can reach 80C

On Wed, Mar 3, 2021 at 10:44 PM pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I grease the pin and gears every year prior to launch and believe it helps the 
blades retract more easily.  The blades are still moving well when we pull in 
the fall. 

 

FYI – we’re in pretty cold fresh water in Lake Superior and don’t have a lot of 
growth to worry about.

 

 

 

From: Wade Glew via CnC-List  
Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2021 6:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Wade Glew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Lubricate Flexofold?

 

Mine is dry. So far.

Wade Glew 

Oh Boy C 33 MKII 

Lake of the Woods

 

On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 18:31 Sam Salter via CnC-List,  
wrote:

Flexofold folding 2 blade prop.
Do you lube it or leave it dry?
I’ve been leaving it dry but I’m open to suggestions/experience 路‍♂️

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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Stus-List Lubricate Flexofold?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Flexofold folding 2 blade prop.
Do you lube it or leave it dry?
I’ve been leaving it dry but I’m open to suggestions/experience 路‍♂️

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 
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Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Yeah, my sheave box was bolted on!

sam 
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


On Jan 30, 2021, at 3:30 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
wrote:


This is a timely post.  How do you access the sheaves at the top of the mast?  
My masthead is welded completely.  I have seen other masts where the top plate 
is bolted on.

Adam
C 36
Pictou NS
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Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I replaced my Rope/wire halyards with all rope about 12 or 13 years ago. But I 
also replaced the masthead sheaves:
https://www.zephyrwerks.com/

I haven’t noticed any significant wear on the halyards.
When I replaced the sheaves I also rebuilt the sheave box at the top of the 
mast. There were some metal partitions in there that had worn razor sharp in 
the previous 30 years. So it might be your wire groove or your sheave box or 
both!

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


On Jan 30, 2021, at 2:54 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:


My all-rope main halyard is wearing somewhat after 4 seasons or so, and I 
should probably replace it..   

It is often stated that when transitioning from wire/rope to all rope halyards, 
that sheaves must be replaced with an appropriate type, presumably without any 
wire groove.  

The main halyard is the widest of all of the 5 lines that pass over these 
sheaves, and is as large an OD as the sheave can accommodate.   It is also the 
most often used, and when at the dock is attached to the end of the boom, so it 
is subject to chafe than the others, even in repose.

Is the wear I'm seeing a result of this shallow groove in the sheave, the 
diameter of the halyard, or is it simply normal wear under the circumstances? 

If I should replace the sheave, can anyone suggest a source and type?

pics here:



https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/new-sheaves.html

Thanks! 

Dave 33-2 Windstar.

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Stus-List Re: Mainsail Gate

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Google “Mainsail Gate”!

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Jan 29, 2021, at 4:26 PM, Jean Forgues via CnC-List  
wrote:


Bonjour
 
For my C, I am looking for a mainsail gate that allows the sail slides to 
slide past the gate entrance without falling out.  The gate is about 7cm long.  
Any idea where I can find that?
 
Jean
Chicoutimi, Canada
 
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Stus-List Re: hose removal

[Sam Salter]

I’ve never used this method, but I read it a long time ago in a long forgotten 
sailing mag.
Sounds like it might work!
Loosen the hose clamp and move it down below the end of the barb so it has only 
hose to squash. Tighten down hard and it should break the seal between hose and 
barb. 

That’s the theory anyway!

Sam Salter 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

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October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - StuOctober is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Timing Belt

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

... and the cam shaft is gear driven off of the crankshaft. (Not timing belt or 
chain driven)

sam

On Jul 31, 2020, at 11:12 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:


What are you timing?   A diesel doesn’t have spark plugs and the valves are on 
a cam shaft.

Neil Andersen
1982 C 32
Rock Hall, MD 21661

Subject: Re: Stus-List Timing Belt
 
To my knowledge all yanmar engines are gear driven.

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

> On Fri, Jul 31, 2020, 11:48 Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Kubota based marine engines are also gear driven.  
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 10:44 AM Sam Salter via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Rob,
>> The 2GMF timing is gear driven. There is no timing belt to change.
> 
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Re: Stus-List Timing Belt

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Rob,
The 2GMF timing is gear driven. There is no timing belt to change.

Sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Jul 31, 2020, at 9:07 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
wrote:

 Jeffery, 

Thank you for the explanation.  I have a Yanmar 2GMF which I will assume 
then is a non-interference engine.  

Any idea when the timing belt should be changed.e.g. number of engine hours 
or overall age of the belt?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 7/31/2020 11:57 AM, Jeffrey Brideau via CnC-List wrote:
> Some engines are deemed interference engines wherein the pistons occupy the 
> same space as an open valve. If the timing belt brakes, the pistons become 
> out of sync with the valve train and havoc ensues. With non-interference 
> engines, it’s just a major inconvenience. 
> 
> On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 10:34 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> Has anyone ever experienced an issue with a broken timing belt in our 
>> marine diesel engines?
>> 
>> A club member had his break recently and it destroyed his engine which 
>> he choose to replace rather than repairand not sure if it actually 
>> could be replaced.   I'll get more info on the exact type of engine and 
>> the extent of the damage.  He said some marine diesel engine 'timing 
>> belts' can break but not cause the kind of damage his did.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Engine starting issue

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

It’s more than likely, either a bad ground connection on the engine (possibly 
on one of the bell housing bolts on the back of the engine) or, after 30 or 40 
years the untinned main battery/starter/solenoid wires have corroded up inside 
the insulation near the connectors. Happened to me a few years ago. Took me a 
couple of years (off and on) to diagnose. Eventually replaced the thick main 
cables with stock cables from Canadian Tire - connectors and battery terminals 
already fitted!

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Jul 31, 2020, at 8:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:


Twice in the last week, I have noticed an issue that might be a prelude to a 
greater problem. Normally, I start the engine by turning on the key, hitting 
the glow plug button for 30 seconds and then hitting the start button.   Never 
been a problem there.  Both times that this has happened, the engine was 
already warm and I just turned the key on, hit the start button and got no 
response.  Tried again a few seconds later and it started up fine both times.  
Is it possible that something needs a few seconds to power up after turning the 
key on (solenoid?)?  I don’t remember this being an issue in the past, but it 
is not often I start the engine by just turning the key and pushing start.  My 
start battery is a 10 year old AGM and has had no trouble cranking the engine 
in general, even after warming the glow plugs for 45 seconds. Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT





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Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

71

Sam Salter 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


On Jul 14, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
 wrote:

57. 
Therapy 
C 29-2
Solomons MD

Sent from my iPhone

>> On Jul 14, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
> 
> What is the youngest age in this group and oldest 
> I’m 40
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 5:20 PM detroito91 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I totally agree.  Now is not the time at our ages to gamble with the virus. 
>> I have not left the house since march, and not going to gamble now. It will 
>> end. We can schedule then
>> Stay safe 
>> Jim Schwartz 
>> SEA YA ! 
>> 38 landfall 
>> Washington nc 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> 
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/14/20 3:36 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: Robert Boyer 
>> Subject: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVID-19?
>> 
>> Last year, I volunteered to host of the upcoming 2020 Mid-Atlantic C 
>> Rendezvous in Baltimore MD in late-September.  We recently returned from the 
>> relative safety of the Bahamas to a raging pandemic in the United States and 
>> it is far from being over, even though Maryland has done quite well in 
>> controlling the virus.  I am in my seventies and catching COVID-19 could 
>> mean much more to me than simply being sick for several weeks—it could be a 
>> death blow.
>> 
>> Consequently, I am withdrawing as a host for the upcoming rendezvous and I 
>> will not be attending one being held elsewhere.  I strongly encourage that 
>> this year's rendezvous be cancelled but that is up to everyone else on this 
>> list who lives in the Mid-Atlantic area.  In my opinion, a weekend get 
>> together (even with friendly C owners) is simply not worth the risk of 
>> catching COVID-19.
>> 
>> So, I am throwing out the question to other possible attendees, should this 
>> year’s rendezvous be cancelled?  And, if not, who is willing to host it and 
>> where?
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Robert Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>> (Spending hurricane season in Baltimore, winters in the Bahamas, and on the 
>> ICW in between)
>> 411 Walnut Street #11447
>> Green Cove Springs, FL 32043
>> (443) 994-1802
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Joel Delamirande
> 
> www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List starter or wire connection

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I had the same problem about 5 years ago!

After 40 or so years, it’s usually corrosion on terminals or untined original 
wiring!
Check and clean the ground connection (usually on one of the transmission 
casing bolts on the back of the gearbox).
After all these years, it may be prudent to change out the 
battery/starter/ground main cables. You can buy pre-made cables with ends at 
Canadian Tire (not sure about US, but somewhere like Pep-Boys?)
These won’t be tinned either, but the first set lasted 40 years 路‍♂️

Sam Salter
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


On Jul 3, 2020, at 12:22 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi everyone,

I usually have to turn the key a few times for the starter to actually rotate. 
I can hear the solenoid clicking even when the starter does not turn.

Would this indicate it is just a wire or connector issue? Or a starter issue? 
Or if further investigation needed, what should be looked at?

Just want to see if I can get advice from the much more experienced community.

thank you,

Bo
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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I’ve got the same (plate in rear cockpit and HIN on outside, starboard stern) 
on my 1977 C 26!

sam
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Jul 1, 2020, at 12:38 PM, david--- via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hull 35-2 #207 has a manufacturers plate at the forward end of the cockpit 
well, as well as the USCG HIN on the transom. It was built in 1973.

David Kelly
Baraka C 35-2
Noroton, CT

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sorry, but I think C discontinued the manufacturers plate when they went to 
> the USCG mandated HIN system which became effective Nov 1, 1972.  This boat 
> is a 1974.  :(
>   -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 12:48 PM JohnKelly Cuthbertson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> Of all the models to not have the cove strip ... oh well thanks anyways.  My 
>> search will continue 
>> 
>> I guess the only other thing would be the manufacturer’s plate ...
>> 
>> And then I’ll learn they didn’t put those in this model either :-)
>> 
>> JK
>> 
>> Motion Designs Limited
>> 647 990 7752
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Exit plate for a '76 C 24?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Rig Rite?

Sam Salter
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta


> On Mar 28, 2020, at 8:33 AM, Eugene Cormier via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 


Hi Folks, just wondering if any of you might know where to source an exit plate 
for a C 24
from the mid-70s?

here's a pic of the starboard side of the mast with the exit plate:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZcB7Dc4p9fJEF2JN6

here's a pic of the port side with the missing exit plate and a ruler for 
sizing:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d7Njr6eLr6EebviX7

Thanks for any help and keep safe, 
Eugene


Eugene Cormier
Assistant Head of Music
Full-time Instructor
Acadia University
www.eugenecormier.com
eugenecorm...@gmail.com
Office: Denton Hall Rm.235
Office Hours:
Phone: (902) 585-1329

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Re: Stus-List wire-to-rope vs rope

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I went all rope (main and Genoa) around 2008 on the original (1977) aluminum 
sheaves. Had no problems for about 5 years. I rebuilt the masthead sheave box 
in about 2013 with custom delrin  sheaves from the guy in Port Townsend (can’t 
remember the name of the company)

Sam Salter
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 

> On Mar 11, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 


My wire to rope jib halyard dates back to the 1980s and has some nasty meat 
hooks. I have several all rope halyards that were given to me and have sat 
inside my shed for years. I used the old wire halyard to pull one through and 
my original thought was to get another one made. This does raise an obvious 
question – why not just use the rope?
My fear is that since the sail usually only comes down once a year if that, the 
rope will get chewed through on the masthead shiv. Is this an issue?
 
 
Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com
 
 
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Sam Salter
Liquorice 
1977 C 26
ZCC260780777
Ghost Lake
Alberta



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Re: Stus-List SAIL TRACK MISSING PART

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Those are called “Mast Gates”!
Do a search, there are a few sites that sell them.
I think Binnacle Marine also sell them.

Sam Salter
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta

On Jun 9, 2019, at 11:13 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Same here. 2 pieces each side of track  that screw inro mast close the track. I 
did find a piece shown on board so not sure if its original method.
John

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net


On Jun 9, 2019, at 12:10 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:

> My 33-2 has a simple screw on plate that closes a widening of the sail track. 
> If I lost mine I’d make another out of a piece of aluminum.
> 
> Dave
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 9, 2019, at 5:38 AM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
>> There are a couple different types of track stop.  You have to know what 
>> type of track cross section you have.  Round, flat, or tides marine (strong 
>> track) all come to mind.  Round and flat can be found at most chandleries.
>> 
>> https://www.westmarine.com/buy/davis-instruments--sail-track-stops--P002_068_001_505
>> 
>> For the strong track system you'll need to contact tide marine. 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hello:
>>> 
>>> 1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail slides 
>>> in the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?  
>>> 
>>> Ray Macklin
>>> LakeHouse
>>> Milwaukee WI.
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jun 8, 2019, 11:58 PM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hello:
>>> 
>>> 1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail slides 
>>> in the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?  
>>> 
>>> Ray Macklin
>>> LakeHouse
>>> Milwaukee WI.
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Furling line cleating

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Chuck,
I have exactly the setup you describe.
It’s on my 26 - a smaller boat, but works flawlessly and was such an 
improvement from the old horned cleat.

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

On Thursday, April 11, 2019, 4:14:14 PM EDT, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!
I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently have 
just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been looking at 
Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with integral cam cleat.  
It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.  Seems I could handle that 
from the helm better.  

Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like ratchet 
blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??


Chuck Saur

Daydream

C 37/40+

Hessel, MI

 

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Stus-List Fwd: Did C ever use deck-stepped mast?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

As is the 26!

Sam Salter 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


Begin forwarded message:

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Date: April 8, 2019 at 6:47:03 PM MDT
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Did C ever use deck-stepped mast?
Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

For sure the little C (24, 25) had the deck stepped masts.
 
Marek
 

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Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Yanmar 2GM20F:

Lub oil: Wix 51334 (NAPA 51334) / Fram PH3593A / Purolator L14459
Primary fuel strainer: Wix 33166 / Baldwin BF825

sam
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 

On Nov 3, 2018, at 11:26 AM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
wrote:

Will Napa be able to tell me which Wix filter will fit my 2GMF Yanmar?
Wade
Oh Boy C 33 MKII 

> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 12:20 svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:
> I second the vote for WIX available at your local NAPA store. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Sv Rebecca Leah 
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Not necessarily cheap, but Harken makes a track that has a longitudinal slot on 
the underside. It fits the head of the installation bolts so they can slide 
anywhere along the track. No filling and redrilling  - they can match the 
original bolt spacing - easy, quick install.

sam

On Oct 13, 2018, at 7:13 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

I need to first replace the main traveler system. Any suggestions with a system 
that won’t break the bank?

Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:43 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Roller furler - Profurl

sam 

On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

Gotcha! 

Roller furling or hank on Sam?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chris,

I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”

I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate 
Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main 
would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff.

sam

On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter  wrote:

Chris,

When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After 
a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later 
I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.
Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the 
laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was 
doing it again.
I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. 
Best upgrades:
New sails
Folding prop
Self tailers 
(The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails)

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thank you Sam!

This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the 
exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap 
(don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy 
that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.

Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for.

Chris

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I have a 1977 C 26.
I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.
The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!
Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.
That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s 
I looked at.
The 26 is a tender boat!
She does move quite well in light air.
I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.
I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.
I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.
She is a roomy boat which is nice!
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.
I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / 
ridged vang / etc., etc..
I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with 
the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.
She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.
Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!
Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.
I see too many project boats that never get in the water.

sam 
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 




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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Roller furler - Profurl

sam 

On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

Gotcha! 

Roller furling or hank on Sam?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chris,

I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”

I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate 
Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main 
would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff.

sam

On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter  wrote:

Chris,

When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After 
a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later 
I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.
Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the 
laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was 
doing it again.
I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. 
Best upgrades:
New sails
Folding prop
Self tailers 
(The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails)

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thank you Sam!

This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the 
exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap 
(don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy 
that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.

Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for.

Chris

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I have a 1977 C 26.
I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.
The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!
Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.
That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s 
I looked at.
The 26 is a tender boat!
She does move quite well in light air.
I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.
I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.
I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.
She is a roomy boat which is nice!
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.
I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / 
ridged vang / etc., etc..
I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with 
the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.
She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.
Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!
Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.
I see too many project boats that never get in the water.

sam 
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 




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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Chris,

I meant to say “I upgraded to New Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”

I might have got a little more speed from the folding prop, but the laminate 
Genoa sets much better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate main 
would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the “bubble” at the luff.

sam

On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter  wrote:

Chris,

When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After 
a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later 
I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.
Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the 
laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was 
doing it again.
I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. 
Best upgrades:
New sails
Folding prop
Self tailers 
(The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails)

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thank you Sam!

This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the 
exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap 
(don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy 
that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.

Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for.

Chris

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I have a 1977 C 26.
I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.
The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!
Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.
That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s 
I looked at.
The 26 is a tender boat!
She does move quite well in light air.
I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.
I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.
I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.
She is a roomy boat which is nice!
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.
I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / 
ridged vang / etc., etc..
I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with 
the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.
She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.
Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!
Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.
I see too many project boats that never get in the water.

sam 
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 




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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Chris,

When I bought the 26, It came with a 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After 
a few years I upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135. Later 
I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from Evolution Sails in Toronto.
Both upgrades improved performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the 
laminate sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a 110 if I was 
doing it again.
I still have the new Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one day. 
Best upgrades:
New sails
Folding prop
Self tailers 
(The folding prop might have given me more speed than the new sails)

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Oct 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thank you Sam!

This 26' could be dropped in tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the 
exception of one stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap 
(don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring in the spring but I enjoy 
that kind of work and it really is minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.

Thanks for the input. Main sail has two reef points which I am thankful for.

Chris

On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I have a 1977 C 26.
I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.
The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!
Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.
That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s 
I looked at.
The 26 is a tender boat!
She does move quite well in light air.
I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.
I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.
I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.
She is a roomy boat which is nice!
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.
I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / 
ridged vang / etc., etc..
I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with 
the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.
She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.
Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!
Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.
I see too many project boats that never get in the water.

sam 
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 




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Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I have a 1977 C 26.
I was looking for a 27 when I bought her.
The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still competitive!
Most (many?) 27’s have been raced hard and put away wet.
That’s why I bought the 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s 
I looked at.
The 26 is a tender boat!
She does move quite well in light air.
I tend to reef early; but she still moves well, even when reefed.
I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be like in a big sea.
I’ve had 7.4 knots on occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.
She is a roomy boat which is nice!
I have a Yanmar 2GM20F in mine with a Flexofold prop.
I’ve done lots of upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars / 
ridged vang / etc., etc..
I like the cockpit size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with 
the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.
She’s a good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on the lake.
Don’t buy a project boat - get one you can sail away!
Upgrades are much more fun than repairs.
I see too many project boats that never get in the water.

sam 
C$C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Oct 11, 2018, at 11:05 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List  
wrote:

The gap from a 24' to a 27' is much bigger than the gap from a 27' to a 30'. I 
looked at several 30-1 before getting my 27MkII and yeah, they are a bit 
bigger, but really you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference below (or above 
decks) unless you were already familiar with both. As it turns out, I have 
never used the 27 for the purpose I bought her for and in many cases quite 
regret moving from my C - the boat is just as easy to handle in most 
situations, just more complex: moving from outboard to inboard, porta-potty to 
marine head, wiring blah blah. Both sail wonderfully.
I can't really comment on your 26 vs 27 as I am not familiar with the 26, but 
the 27MkII is a nice boat to sail, can carry more sail in heavier winds than 
the later ones due to more ballast and a slightly shorter mast, but not quite 
as good in the light stuff for the same reasons (I've always thought a MkIII 
rudder would be a nice modification to the MkII though). Of course the MkI is a 
bit stiffer still since the mast is even shorter. Having said that, sounds like 
the 27 you are considering needs a fair bit of work, maybe hold out for a nicer 
one?
FYI, the 26 appears to be pretty much the most tender boat C ever built, 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/technica/stability.htm (for the 27s I believe that 
diagram shows the C designations where Mk1TM is what we refer to as the MkII, 
MkII is what we think of as the MkIII/IV, and "New 27" is the MkV). Theoretical 
measurements of course, but it usually translates fairly well into real world 
tippyness which can often be a factor for non-sailing guests/significant others.
Cheers,
Paul.
1974 27' MkII
Sidney, BC

DELLENBAUGH ANGLE - C Photo Album & Resource Center
This is the angle that the vessel is presumed to heel given a force of 1 pound 
per square foot on the sails, assuming they were all sheeted flat amidships.
www.cncphotoalbum.com


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chris Graham via 
CnC-List 
Sent: October 11, 2018 6:53 AM
To: Richard Bush via CnC-List
Cc: Chris Graham
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?
 
I really do appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I watched my 
father-in-law sell his beloved 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who 
complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I heard the same complaints on the 
the 34'er and again on their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the 
27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never regretted for a day 
downsizing from my 34' to my 28' and felt I was getting closer to what I really 
enjoyed about sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but I 
feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of initial purchase price. 

I am pretty steadfast in my desire to keep it small and manageable. My days of  
the "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to fall into again ;)

I have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!!  :)

Chris

On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
 wrote:
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Re: Stus-List Water valves

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Kyle,

I have a 1977 C 26.
Your engine looks like a raw water cooled Yanmar. (Mine is a fresh water cooled 
2GM20F)
As previously stated, the 2 large black gate valves are cockpit drains.
The red hose at the front of the engine is the raw water inlet to the water 
pump. The water out will be ejected through the exhaust, probably via a water 
muffler and then out the back of the transom.
When you start the engine, give it time to fill the water muffler and you 
should see water and exhaust gases come out the exhaust on the transom 
(probably at water level)
If you don’t get water out, shut it down and investigate:
Blocked inlet
Pump impeller
Blocked water jacket
Blocked “T” inlet into the exhaust elbow
Blocked hoses or water muffler.

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


On Aug 21, 2018, at 10:27 AM, Kyle Davis via CnC-List  
wrote:

I was actually able to get to the boat for pics. Josh. I wish I’d have thought 
about it originally. Hopefully these are helpful to help me. 
It’s a 1977 26 foot boat. The engine is original. 


https://photos.app.goo.gl/6skQSmdTkjT69gZG6
-- 
Kyle Davis
‘77 C 26
s/v Fierce
Bremerton,WA
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Re: Stus-List mystery item

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

As David said:
It’s a boom bail for use with a roller reefing boom. Can be used for: the vang; 
the mainsheet; or anything else that needs to attach to the boom while the main 
is wrapped or partially wrapped around the boom.

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


On Aug 1, 2018, at 3:07 PM, Ray Macklin via CnC-List  
wrote:

Would it be used on the boom as a preventer 

> On Aug 1, 2018, at 3:34 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
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> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>  1. Re:  mystery item (Don Kern)
>  2. Re:  mystery item (Don Harben)
>  3. Re:  mystery item (David Blair)
>  4. Re:  mystery item (Gary Nylander)
>  5. Re:  mystery item (Randy Stafford)
>  6. Re:  mystery item (Don Wagner)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 15:44:23 -0400
> From: Don Kern 
> To: T Smyth via CnC-List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mystery item
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Tom
> 
> It fits around your boom and i used as preventer downwind the keep the 
> boom from lifting / unintentional jibing. The rollers go up on either 
> side of the sail and you attache a line from the shackle to the rail.
> 
> Don
> 
> 
>> On 8/1/2018 3:32 PM, T Smyth via CnC-List wrote:
>> 
>> I?m trying to determine the use of an item I found on a recently 
>> purchased 1974 C 30.
>> 
>> It?s probably obvious but I just can?t quite identify it.
>> See photo at
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/bUs1Qcb3DdsuaFz89
>> 
>> 
>> Tks
>> Tom
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> 
> -- next part --
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 19:56:41 + (UTC)
> From: Don Harben 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mystery item
> Message-ID: <998002743.731464.1533153401...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Old school dog collar?
> 
> Don
> 
> 
> 
> -- next part --
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> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 13:04:22 -0700
> From: "David Blair" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mystery item
> Message-ID: <01d701d429d2$d7b43710$871ca530$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Never seen one like that but I?d suspect it is to assist feeding the foresail 
> into a track on a furler.  My $0.02  Ciao
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T Smyth 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2018 12:32 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: T Smyth
> Subject: Stus-List mystery item
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I?m trying to determine the use of an item I found on a recently purchased 
> 1974 C 30.
> 
> 
> 
> It?s probably obvious but I just can?t quite identify it.
> 
> See photo at
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/bUs1Qcb3DdsuaFz89
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tks
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 16:08:08 -0400
> From: "Gary Nylander" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List mystery item
> Message-ID: <00a601d429d3$5f78d660$1e6a8320$@atlanticbb.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> That is a bit of an antique. Your boat probably came from the factory with 
> roller reefing for the main. The boom was hooked to the mast at one point and 
> there was a crank to wind the boom ? thus rolling the sail around it. That 
> roller gizmo was wrapped around the boom and hooked to the topping lift so 
> the boom could rotate freely. If your boom is original, it probably has a 
> single bolt in the aft end and a flat piece of stainless where the main sheet 
> attached.
> 
> 
> 
> The first ?big? boat I sailed on back in the day had one.
> 
> 
> 
> Gary
> 
> 1980 

Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Check the ground connection first, mounted to one of the flywheel cover bolts. 
Clean it up and retighten. They corrode over time.
If that doesn’t fix it, I’d replace the thick battery to starter wires and 
connectors. 36 years is a fair life for those electrical cables and they 
corrode inside the insulation so it’s difficult to spot a problem.
I had the same problem a couple of years ago on my 2GM 20F and 4 new off the 
shelf wires with ends from Canadian Tire solved the problem. (I know - not 
tinned, but I sail in fresh water and another 36 years is all I’ll be needing !)

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


On Jul 9, 2018, at 7:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar engines. 
 Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is occasionally 
exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the button for a few 
tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over after 2 or 3 clicks, 
engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are fine, cranking speed is 
fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or wiring??  Can someone point me to 
the thread or advise the consensus of the fix?
 
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT
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Re: Stus-List Traveler fit?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

My boat’s only a 26, but when I replaced the traveler track (6 or 8 years ago?) 
that’s on the bridge deck, just in front of the companionway, I put in a Harken.
Hole spacing and clearance for the cars in the slot were the main 
considerations.
Harken makes a track with a longitudinal slot running all along the underside 
of the track. The bolt heads are captured in this slot and can be moved 
anywhere along the track to line up with the existing holes.
I support the observation that Harken track and cars are of high quality and 
really improve the traveler performance under load.
I have a lot of Garhauer stuff on my boat, but  a Harken traveler was my first 
choice, mainly because of the variable bolt spacing capabilities!

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


> On Apr 14, 2018, at 3:06 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> FWIW, the traveler on my previous boat (34) and on my current boat (42) are 
> both mounted in an aluminum traveler bridge near the companionway.  I 
> replaced the traveler on the 34 with a Harken, which worked fine (the 
> windward sheeting car is overrated in my view).  I also replaced the baby 
> stay car and track on the 34, and wanted something more robust.  I decided to 
> go with a  Schaefer big boat main traveler (this was at least 15 years ago), 
> but the hole pattern was all wrong.  Given the lack of uniformity between 
> holes on the old track, I concluded that C must have drilled the baby stay 
> track in place.  I contacted Schaefer about this issue, and they sold me an 
> anodized piece of track cut to the length I requested, but without 
> pre-drilled holes so I could match the holes of the old track.  Similar to 
> the kind of service that Guido provides at Garhauer.  The Schaefer traveler 
> worked very well as a baby stay.
>  
> I was so impressed by the robust car and smooth operation of the Schaefer 
> traveler that I replaced the main traveler on my 42 with Schaefer.  A 
> Schaefer traveler may not be quite as smooth as Harken, but I have no 
> difficulty at all using it and the car is strong.  I’m very happy with my 
> choice.  I also like that I can call Schaefer and talk to someone if I have 
> any issues.
>  
> From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2018 11:54 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Saur
> Subject: Stus-List Traveler fit?
>  
> Hello from frozen Michigan.  I am still spending my kids' inheritance on deck 
> hardware.
>  
> Question for 35-3 owners or others:  Has anyone replaced the aging Schaefer 
> main traveler?  What advice might you offer...Defender has a sale on Lewmar 
> traveler kits, size 2 which would offer enough capacity for us.  But...I am 
> not at the boat, and wonder if the aluminum traveler bridge that houses the 
> current track will allow the change to Lewmar?  Appears that the car-mounted 
> cam cleats might be obstructed by the bridge "tray" height in the 
> mid-section.  The Lewmar track appears lower in the pictures.  Current 
> Schaefer setup has outboard mounted cam cleats.  
> Any advice on replacement traveler selection?  
>  
> PS...Ice fishermen are still driving trucks to shanties on Hessel Bay. Yech.
> 
> 
> Chuck Saur
>  
> ​Morning Sky C$C 35-3
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List IPad Upgrade

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I assumed I would carry on with iNavX!
Not really thought about changing.

sam

> On Apr 10, 2018, at 12:09 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> running Navionics ?
> 
> John Conklin 
> 
> 
> On Apr 10, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> Sam,
>> 
>> That's right.  The cell antenna is also the GPS antenna.  Or you can buy a 
>> separate GPS dongle.
>> I just upgraded from a 3 to an Air 2.  Big difference in performance!
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>>> On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 1:35 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> It’s about time to upgrade my iPad from the original model - nothing much 
>>> works anymore!
>>> I originally bought it, way back, to run iNavX using the internal GPS 
>>> alone, independent of cell towers. Since the original model’s GPS was 
>>> configured differently than current models, can someone confirm that any 
>>> Wi-Fi + cellular model is the correct choice. (I believe the newer iPads 
>>> use the cellular antenna as the GPS antenna, so buying the Wi-Fi only would 
>>> not work?)
>>> 
>>> Sam Salter
>>> C 26  Liquorice
>>> Ghost Lake  Alberta
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C0d7d2545e1e64d462b0a08d59f0a2328%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636589788238217788=GDC5oDa3V1qy4AZHZ7vNc3r9MEkPiRb4YMQFsGg8Wlc%3D=0
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List IPad Upgrade

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel - time to open my wallet!

Sam

> On Apr 10, 2018, at 11:39 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Sam,
> 
> That's right.  The cell antenna is also the GPS antenna.  Or you can buy a 
> separate GPS dongle.
> I just upgraded from a 3 to an Air 2.  Big difference in performance!
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 10, 2018 at 1:35 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> It’s about time to upgrade my iPad from the original model - nothing much 
>> works anymore!
>> I originally bought it, way back, to run iNavX using the internal GPS alone, 
>> independent of cell towers. Since the original model’s GPS was configured 
>> differently than current models, can someone confirm that any Wi-Fi + 
>> cellular model is the correct choice. (I believe the newer iPads use the 
>> cellular antenna as the GPS antenna, so buying the Wi-Fi only would not 
>> work?)
>> 
>> Sam Salter
>> C 26  Liquorice
>> Ghost Lake  Alberta
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List IPad Upgrade

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

It’s about time to upgrade my iPad from the original model - nothing much works 
anymore!
I originally bought it, way back, to run iNavX using the internal GPS alone, 
independent of cell towers. Since the original model’s GPS was configured 
differently than current models, can someone confirm that any Wi-Fi + cellular 
model is the correct choice. (I believe the newer iPads use the cellular 
antenna as the GPS antenna, so buying the Wi-Fi only would not work?)

Sam Salter
C 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 143, Issue 99

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Yes - wot you said :-)

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


> On Dec 29, 2017, at 11:16 AM, andrew rothweiler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Tim,
> 
> Here is a follow up question regarding the Monte Carlo scenarios- is the 
> Monte Carlo calculation reset and/or updated periodically (annually?)  to 
> incorporate actual return results of prior years?  In other words, the 
> scenario generates random annual return projections going forward, but are 
> actual known past return numbers inserted for the random number that was used 
> in the prior year? So in 2016, the scenario had any number of random return 
> possibilities for the year 2017.  For 2018 going forward, is the actual 
> return number for 2017 (and all prior years for that matter) 
> programmed/updated  into the calculation for future years?
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Andy Rothweiler
> 
> 
> From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Sent: Friday, December 29, 2017 11:02 AM
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 143, Issue 99
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Navigation Software (Frederick G Street)
>   2. Re:  CNG tank refill location (Eugene Fodor)
>   3. Re:  Windows Navigation Software (Doug Allardyce)
>   4. Re:  Windows Navigation Software (Rod Stright)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2017 09:37:58 -0600
> From: Frederick G Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation Software
> Message-ID: <6d06ffbb-01a1-4622-be12-08dc69285...@postaudio.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Am I the only one using TZ on the iPad?
> 
> http://app.nobeltec.com/index
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI  :^(
> 
> > On Dec 29, 2017, at 9:23 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > I still keep SeaClear on my boat and home laptops.  Easy to download charts 
> > from NOAA and I have a USB GPS module that originally came with Microsoft 
> > Streets and Trips 2010 that still works.  Only used for trip planning and 
> > as a backup to the backup to the backup.  Free and still works.
> > 
> > Neil Schiller
> > 1983 C, #028
> > "Grace"
> > White Lake, Michigan
> 
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> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2017 09:54:24 -0600
> From: Eugene Fodor 
> To: cnc-list 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill location
> Message-ID:
> 

Re: Stus-List C 30 MKI Prop Strut

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Try Holland Marine or Southshore Yachts

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake  Alberta 


> On Oct 29, 2017, at 11:18 AM, Gordon Ackland via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to replace the prop strut on my ’73 C 30 (Cassini) and looking for 
> some advice going forward.  Has anyone found a company that either still has 
> one laying around (I know, huge long shot) or knows of someone that still has 
> the mold, etc.  I have tried to contact C aka Waterline and have yet to 
> hear back.  Same goes for Millers Island Props and Deep Blue Yachts.  
> 
> It seems another option is to fabricate one out of stainless but I wanted to 
> check here before I consider that route to understand all my options.  Any 
> advise or direction is much appreciated.
> 
> Thank you.   
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Kyle,
I’’eve got a 1977 C 26 and the boat came originally with a stove.
I’ve since replaced it with a 2 burner Force 10 propane stove which fitted 
right in the hole, almost exactly.
It was located (by C) outboard of the sink on the other part of the “L” on 
the starboard side. Long side running fore and aft.
I could probably get a pic next time I’m out at the boat.

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


> On Oct 26, 2017, at 1:49 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> How about this one...
> http://www.coleman.com/butane-stove/220951.html?cgid=coleman-stovesandgrills#pmax=25=0=1
> 
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25MKII
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2017 at 2:21 PM, Kyle Davis via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello everyone...new owner of a 1977 C 26. I have owned a Bayliner 
>> sailboat and still have a Catalina 25. Really excited about this C, but 
>> I’m working on where to install a stove. I’m located in Washington State and 
>> coffee is a must. I mostly prepare food on a grill in the cockpit. So I 
>> could use a single burner. Just looking for advice and ideas. 
>> 
>> The boat has never had a name and I’m considering using my first grandson’s 
>> name, Killian. 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Bill Dakin
> Tapestryaussies.org
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
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> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List synthetic oil

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

The concern is that synthetic (with their detergents) will clean out the ring 
grooves and cause excessive blow-by and increase oil burn.
Regular diesel oils - even single weight oils - have had detergent additives 
for many years. Certainly since I was an apprentice (in the '60's). So unless 
the Yanmar is pre '60's, I wouldn't be too concerned.
Most of this concern stems from gas engine experience, where detergent 
additives came much later and there has been real experiences of gas engines 
loosing compression after a change to synthetic.

Sam Salter
CandC 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


> On Jul 23, 2017, at 5:09 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> There are some reports that synthetic oil may dissolve some of the residues 
> left on different parts, which may lead to sudden increase of the oil usage. 
> Of course, this applies to older engines. The general rule of thumb is that 
> if you used non-synthetic oils in the past (and did it for years) you may 
> want to stay with the same kind. If you used synthetics, there should be no 
> issue switching to non-synthetic.
> 
> My personal experience is limited to a single car in the past, where I 
> changed from normal to synthetic (the car was driven hard) and I ended up 
> with an engine that burned about 1-1.5 l (1-2 qt.) of oil for 1000 km.
> 
> I don't believe that you could use oil that is "too good" for the engine. As 
> long as it is the same grade, it should work fine.
> 
> In your case I would monitor how much oil is staying in the engine (and how 
> much you burn).
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Marek
> 1994 C270 "Legato"
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2017 11:45
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
> Subject: Stus-List synthetic oil
> 
> I had my brother pick up 15w40 for me last week. Changed oil today and when 
> old oil drained realized he bought synthetic 15w40. Have outing today and no 
> time to get regular oil. 
> 
> Plan to drain and change later this week to non synthetic
> 
> Is this an issue?
> 
> Yanmar 3gm30f
> ___
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Re: Stus-List mast gate

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Another solution, and avoiding a mast gate altogether, is to use a jack line on 
the lower half dozen mast slugs. 

Sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


> On Jul 21, 2017, at 2:18 PM, Sam Salter <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> They sell them on line:
> http://www.mastgates.com/
> 
> - one example.
> 
> sam
> C 26  Liquorice 
> Ghost Lake Alberta 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 21, 2017, at 1:24 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone 
>> to machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
>> Bill Walker 
>> CnC 36
>> Pentwater, Mi
>> 
>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>> 
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>> 
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List mast gate

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

They sell them on line:
http://www.mastgates.com/

- one example.

sam
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 


> On Jul 21, 2017, at 1:24 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone to 
> machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
> Bill Walker 
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 27

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  Wasn't this post originally about a 27 traveller track?I have a 26. Replaced the original pin stop track with a Harken.It fit perfectly in the slot in the bridge deck and left plenty of room for the new harken traveller. No need for a raised traveller. The track had a slot all along the bottom, so the bolts could use the original holes. Nice solution and works great.I also have a Gaurhauer rigid boom vang ‎and Garhauer adjustable genoa sheets - they make great stuff too. But the harken traveller fitted perfectly and no messing with bolt spacings.sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 3:01 PMTo: CnClistReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dennis C.Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C 35 Mk IISean,I have Lewmar Ocean 1 ball bearing genoa cars and a Harken traveler.  In my opinion, the Harken is superior.  Harken does make a high beam variable spacing traveler track (Harken R32HB) which may fit your application.  Harken tends to be a "bit" more pricey, however.  Here's a link to Touche's traveler setup:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX0dGcEV2Mm1QNUEIt has a 4:1 endless traveler sheet which passes through bulkhead mounted swivel cam cleats.  It can be operated easily from forward or aft of the traveler.While I don't have experience with Garhauer travelers, many on the list speak highly of them.  I have other Garhauer items on my boat and am positively impressed with them.  I have also had Garhauer make custom items for both my boat and clients boats.  Good stuff.A traveler that operates well is, in my opinion, a safety item.  Many port/starboard collisions are partially to blame because a traveler would not drop quickly or a mainsheet would not release easily.  The port boat was not able to turn down due to being extremely powered up.Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAOn Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 2:00 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List  wrote:Certainly seems Garhauer is the way to go Rick. What was the
turnaround time like on your order?

 

The Lewmar looks like it could be a quick “off the shelf”
solution though.

 

PS. The old pin stop is a PIA SeanC 27 MKIIILYNXOn Tue, Jul 11, 2017 at 2:08 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:Call Guido at Garhauer. He made the traveler for my 38 with a tall track and the car sized to fit the well in the bridge deck. The hole spacing was made to match the pattern of the OEM traveler track. The length was custom for the boat. The turning blocks and cleats for the 6:1 adjuster lines were angled to allow adjusting from the helm when single handing. No extra charge for all the custom work.And it probably cost less than half the cost of the Lewmar traveler.Rick BrassSent from my iPadOn Jul 11, 2017, at 10:11, Sean Richardson via CnC-List  wrote:Hi Sylvain,

 

I’m looking to upgrade the original pin stop traveler on my
27 mkIII. How well did the Lewmar fit down in the original track recess and
does it clear the cockpit lockers on either side no problem? Would you happen to
have any pictures?

 

 

Sean

C 27 MKIII

LYNXOn Tue, May 2, 2017 at 7:37 PM, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List  wrote:Hi, you may also want to take a look at Lewmar, their #1 model is fine on my 27 ( up to 36 feet supposedly), it runs on Torlon bearings an requires no drilling. Price was 400 can$ 3 years ago.Sylvain C 27 mkIIIEnvoyé de mon iPhoneLe 2 mai 2017 à 07:58, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  a écrit :I had a Harken.  Garhauer is 1/3 the price.JoelOn Tue, May 2, 2017 at 12:30 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List  wrote:Harken Big Boat Traveler system, if you have a spare G-note or two lying in between the cushions on your couch. The original Schaefer stuff is obsolete at best, and not worth repairing. Jim WattsParadigm ShiftC 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BC
On 1 May 2017 at 19:10, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List  wrote:




My track slide is very difficult to move. The wheels are worn and do not turn easily any more. Has anyone found a suitable replacement system or parts to repair the existing system?

Cheers, J-G 



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Re: Stus-List Unique 3 way wire connector

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  Dennis,You really need to get out more!sam :-)From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, May 25, 2017 4:05 PMTo: CnClistReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dennis C.Subject: Stus-List Unique 3 way wire connectorHad a situation where I wanted to connect two wires twisted and soldered together with two smaller individual wires.  The individual wires could use a 14-16 connector but the twisted wires needed a 10-12 connector. Aha!  I grabbed two 14-16 #10 ring connectors and a 10-12 #10 ring connector and riveted them together with a 3/16 inch 1/4 inch grip aluminum rivet.  Everything got smeared with TefGel since the rivet wasn't tinned marine grade.  Voila, a 3 way connector with two 14-16 connectors and one 10-12 connector.https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvseWVpb0h0WUVvVncYeah, I could have used a couple of 10-12 butt connectors and twisted wires together and folded wires over but that's not how we roll on Touche'.  Could have also used a piggy back quick disconnect.Dennis C.


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Re: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

They both "depower" the main‎ but it's not the same thing going on:
As the wind builds it pushes the max draft in the ‎main aft. This increases 
drag until it slows the boat and increases heel. The Cunningham brings the max. 
draft forward again to make the aerofoil more effective. It increases lift and 
reduces drag. Making more of the lift available in the forward vector.
‎It's more effective than tensioning the main halliard as the main halliard 
also tensions the leech, cupping it and reducing speed by increasing drag 
again. The Cunningham, mostly tensions just the luff.
The baby stay will just flatten the main to reduce lift by increasing the cord 
lenth of the aerofoil (as far as it can bend our thick masts) 
As said before, it also stops the mast pumping, which the Cunningham obviously 
doesn't.
You need both!‎ 

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

  Original Message  
From: Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2017 7:43 PM
To: C Stus List
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Baby stay vs Cunningham?

Both depower the main Does the adjustable baby stay (mast bend) make the 
Cunningham (luff tension) redundant?
I have an adjustable baby stay, is adding a Cunningham a waste of time?

Thanks , Dave
33-2

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull (Sam Salter)

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

My thoughts are:
When you drill a hole with a hole saw it’s going to be a little larger anyway. 
But I don’t see the need for clearance – you want a fairly tight, solid fit. 
Lots of “goop” (...a technical term!) doesn’t seal any better. The seal is one 
molecule wide between the hull and sealant and one molecule wide between the 
sealant and the through hull. The rest is just mess to clean up! The seal will 
be on the through hull flange (on the outside) and the washer on the inside. 
Therefore any extra sealant in a larger hole would be redundant.

(I hate silicone and I hate butyl! ☹)
...jut sayin’ 

sam :-)

From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Sent: April 5, 2017 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Delaney
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull (Sam Salter)

Sam, 
Actually, your question is something I would like to hear the list's thoughts 
on. I've read that you should drill the hole a size larger than the thruhull, 
but I have no idea if that is best practice or not. Should I be drilling the 
hole the same size as the thruhull, or should it be a little larger?

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: Sam Salter <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2017 11:17:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat is 
good advice.
Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above the 
waterline  (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not keen 
on butyl either‎ - my deck to hull joint is butyl and it drips everywhere!)
‎Why a 1 1/4" hole for a 1 1/8" fitting? 

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat is 
good advice.
Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above the 
waterline  (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not keen 
on butyl either‎ - my deck to hull joint is butyl and it drips everywhere!)
‎Why a 1 1/4" hole for a 1 1/8" fitting? 

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

  Original Message  
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 10:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

3M 4200 will work, but if the fitting is plastic, chances are you will be 
replacing it again someday. 4200 is not as difficult as 5200, but neither is 
easy to remove. Above the waterline through hulls are the only place that I use 
silicone. Polysulfide (Life Caulk) would probably work, but there is a caution 
about its use with plastics, and I don't know why. All of the plastic tank vent 
through hulls, the shower through hull, and the electric bilge through hulls 
needed replacement on my C Southern sunshine!

Steve Thomas

 Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi listers,

Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
Onto the next project!

I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
surprises to expect?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY


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Re: Stus-List Deck Coring Around Chainplates

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  I think the void filling approach is right.If your chainplates are the same as mine, they are actually mounted proper to bulkhead(s) inside the boat. The deck you are looking at is not supporting any part of the mast; it's all being supported through the bulkhead. It's just a cover to keep the rain out!However, the void fill would still bring the deck back to "new" condition. (Unless there was substantial rot going back well into the deck away from the hole) sam :-)C 26 ‎ Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: RANDY via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, January 29, 2017 3:48 PMTo: cnc-listReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: RANDYSubject: Stus-List Deck Coring Around ChainplatesListers-We're having a spate of nice weather here in Denver - supposed to be sunny all week and 61 degrees tomorrow (yes, in late January / early February).So today I pulled the chainplates on my 1972 C 30 MK I as part of a planned rebedding job (I confirmed leaks down the chainplates last year).  Unfortunately after removing all old sealant I found some wet and rotten wood core material between the outer and inner deck skins around the chainplate cutout holes.Now I want to solicit the list's collective wisdom on how to deal with this the right way.  The lazy approach would be to just reinstall the chainplates and inject new sealant all around, including into the void between deck skins where rotten core came out, butting up against remaining (and possibly still wet) core.On the other hand I've read everything Don Casey has to say about cored deck repair.  I could consider removing core around all sides of the cutout, about a half-inch back from each edge, using a bent nail chucked into a power drill.  Then I could fill those voids with thickened epoxy to the edges of the cutout, and then re-bed the chainplates.The extreme end of the spectrum would be to try to map out the area of wet core e.g. perhaps from the outboard edge of the chainplate cutout all the way to the toe rail, then remove and replace the damaged core.  However that seems like a huge and complicated job, and I don't think the wet area is that large.  I haven't noticed any softness or squishiness around the chainplates at all, but I can percussion-test it carefully.In the meantime I'm letting those areas dry out by leaving the chainplates out and exposing those areas to the dry Colorado air.  I may go pour some acetone in those voids too, since Don Casey identifies that as a core-drying technique.I'm leaning towards the void-filling approach.  What do you think?Thanks,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO

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Re: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ...and wipe the teak with acetone before you glue to get the oils out of the joint.sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, November 1, 2016 10:24 AMTo: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Della Barba, JoeSubject: Re: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question







Epoxy
 
 


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Staten via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 12:15
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Staten 
Subject: Stus-List Cockpit Grating Question


 
Good Morning, Everyone. I’m not a sailor but I own a boat and impersonate a sailor on rare occasions. I have a problem with my wooden cockpit grating. If it has a nautical name, I’m unaware. A few of the runners
 that keep the grating up and out of the water have come loose. They were glued on so I used Elmer’s Wood Glue to re-glue them, thinking that would be the end of the matter. After a half-hour of actual use, I was a wiser, sadder man. Is there a better glue
 that you can recommend? I would surely appreciate it.
 
Steve Staten
“C’est La Vie”

26’ C
Langley, OK, USA





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Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  Go sailing! sam :-)From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 5:40 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Aaron RouhiSubject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update






So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked before:


http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg




I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied:


http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg




Here is after developer is applied:


http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg




I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on the surface... 


Any thoughts?




Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD







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Re: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  I've got a 2 blade flexofold (13x11 I think) - paid $1200 a couple of years ago.This prop is better in forward and reverse than my previous 3 blade fixed. Performance sailing is outstanding compared to the fixed. sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, June 7, 2016 7:42 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Hoyt, MikeSubject: Stus-List flexofold vs Martec







On Persistence we currently have a Martec RH 16 DX 14P 2 blade elliptical folding propeller that is approximately 10 years old on our Yanmar 3GM30F.  I back
 in to my slip because when I am motoring in reverse I can stop very quickly by putting in fwd.  If driving forward into a slip I cannot stop quickly by putting into reverse.  My normal procedure is to approach our marina at approx. 4 knots, then put in neutral
 for a bit and at 3 knots put in reverse and increase RPMs to 2800.  During this time I turn bow away from marina for approx. 30 seconds until the boat stops its forward momentum and then begins to move in reverse.  After that it drives very nicely in reverse
 and I back all the way in til I get to my slip and am stopped.
 
Suffice it to say there is very little bite when engaging reverse.
 
Has anyone here recently switched from Martec folding to Flexofold geared prop who can offer any comments on the difference in reverse?  Is it significant and
 therefore worthwhile paying the $1200 US price I have been quoted?
 
Thanks
 
Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS





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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  I second or third the ground! Had that problem for a few years. Engine was dead on the start button, until 3rd or 4th press and then would fire up suddenly. (2GM20F)Bad ground to the trans. case. Cleaned it up and all was fine.I eventually replaced all the battery cables with pre made  cables and ends from Canadian Tire.‎ After 35 years all the wire to end joints get a little suspect and the wire was not that good to start with - not tinned! Fore something like $35 and an hours work, I now get instant starts every time. sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Dave Syer via CnC-ListSent: Monday, June 6, 2016 9:05 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dave SyerSubject: Re: Stus-List Starting ProblemCheck your grounds.   Had what I thought was a dead tach  and it was a corroded ground connection where the main harness from the engine control panel grounded via a ring terminal on a stud to the engine.   This should be a maintenance item...Dave  
--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:20:33 +
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting Problem
Message-ID:
        
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I made a video that walks through the starting circuit on my yanmar.  Its
pretty generic, maybe it will help.

https://youtu.be/Mp2cGDa1VOU

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 5, 2016 11:13 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need
> to get done.
>
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from
> turning the key.
>
>
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to
> the radio when trying to turn over the engine.
>
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
>
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to
> clean contact but no effect.
>
>
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
>
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
>
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of
> noise or power dip indicating that something was seized
>
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what
> I presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as
> well.  Nothing obviously disconnected
>
>
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure
> out what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
>
>
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
>
> 



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Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain what I'm missing:Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay. Sure, it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the forestay, but mostly it's going to stay put.Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast‎ or at least fixes it in space, fore and aft.When backstay is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the middle of the mast forward, slackening the baby stay?Tensioning the forestay‎ and taking draft out of the main.Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it???sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: allen via CnC-ListSent: Friday, June 3, 2016 7:53 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: allenSubject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?






Jake's pretty much right on.  You should have a 
baby stay that will secure the mid point of the mast in space allowing backstay 
adjuster to bend the mast aft and flatten the main. 
Primarily you're looking to increase forestay 
tension.
 
Allen Miles
S/v Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA



From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 9:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?


Your adjustable 
backstay is used to control forestay tension.  You probably won’t get a lot 
of mast bend, but as I recall the 30-2 had a skinny mast.  It may flatten 
your main a bit too.
 
Jake
 
Jake 
Brodersen
C 
35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton 
VA
 
 
 
From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lorne Serpa via 
CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, June 1, 2016 21:48To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: 
Lorne Serpa Subject: 
Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
 



I'm new to sailing.  My C 30MkII has an adjustable 
back stay.  However, I have watched a couple sailing videos and they say 
with a full rig vs. fractional, it cannot be adjusted because the back and front 
stays are attached at the top.
How do you adjust the mast rack/bend with a back stay if the 
fore stay is attached at the same point?  Keeps answers simple for 
me...don't know all the lingo yet.
Thanks.



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Stus-List 29 Outhaul

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

 Bit late but...I have a 26 with a cascading 4:1 Outhaul on the outside of the boom ‎and a loose footed main. Accessible from the tiller.I can easily adjust draught depth under load beating to windward.sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta 

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Re: Stus-List GPS

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  The GPS on the newer iPads sha‎re the cellular antenna. Hence the need to get the high end iPad with cellular (even if you don't intend to install a chip!)Not the case with the original iPad (although the GPS still only came with the high end pad)sam :-)C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-ListSent: Monday, April 4, 2016 1:46 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail)Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS







Rick,
 
This is a bit of splitting hairs, but your statement is not entirely 
correct. You can easily have a cellular-enabled tablet without the GPS (even if 
it unlikely, especially lately), as much as you can have a Wi-Fi only tablet 
with GPS included.
 
However, for iPads (which by no means constitute the majority of tablets) 
that is true – if you have cellular-enabled iPad, you will get the GPS; if you 
don’t, you won’t.
 
Marek
 


 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 4, 2016 11:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS
 

Any tablet that is capable of getting cellular data must 
have an internal GPS, just like a cell phone. There does not need to be a 
cellular data link for the internal GPS to work.I'm sending this message 
on an older iPad that has never been connected to a cellular 
network.Rick BrassSent from my 
iPad


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Re: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Rig-Rite NY
Do a search!

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2016 10:22 AM
To: Stuslist
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List Gooseneck fitting

Preparing to remove my rig, I found the gooseneck fitting (toggle?) worn around 
the vertical pin. Where might I source a new one. The boat is a '94 37/40+. I'm 
not sure of the manufacturer. 
On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive? I'm 
sure this has come up before but I haven't found a way to retrieve the thread. 

Cheers, Al


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Re: Stus-List Low Viscosity Epoxy

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  Thanks guys, that’s plenty of information to locate what I need! sam :-)From: Sam SalterSent: Thursday, March 10, 2016 10:45 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Low Viscosity Epoxy  Where do you guys get the very low viscosity resin that soaks into wood end grain?Thankssam :-)C 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta


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Stus-List Low Viscosity Epoxy

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

 Where do you guys get the very low viscosity resin that soaks into wood end grain?Thankssam :-)C 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta

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Stus-List Sailrite Machine

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎I bought a Sailrite LSZ1 sewing m/c in 2005 so I could make a dodger for my C 26. It developed into a sail repair & canvas business that supports my boat mtce and my charters in the tropics!I support what Graham says! My machine has been very well used over the last 10 years and has not let me down once. This machine is bullet proof! I'm self taught - it's really quite easy. samC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta From: Graham Collins via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 4:20 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Graham Collins‎Subject: Re: Stus-List ab inflatables
  

  
  
Buying a sailrite machine was one of my better spends.  No regrets.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2016-02-04 12:08 PM, Stevan Plavsa
  via CnC-List wrote:


  Bill, I know how you feel. I watch the videos on
the sailrite website and think "man, I MUST have that". And then
the feeling goes away when I think of all the projects I have to
do. Making my own cushions is way down the list of priorities.
However, I do need a new sail cover... and will need new dodger
and bimini too... 


and so it goes.


Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


  
  
On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 10:28 AM, Bill
  Coleman via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  

  
Is
it valuable enough to take on the boat with you? 
I
watched the fellow from Sailrite demo that at
Annapolis, and I
was so spellbound watching him make upholstery
piping and such I was getting my
credit card out, but then some woman started talking
at him, and she seemed more
interested, so I backed off and the feeling went
away.   I am sure it is not as
easy as he made it look.
 

  Bill
  Coleman
  C
  39 Erie, PA


   
   
  .
  And sew yourself a dinghy cover.  Tropical sun
  will
   disintegrate anything.  For circumnavigation
  Sailrite sewing machine
  is worth its weight in gold.  
   
  Petar
  Horvatic
  Sundowner
  76
  C 38MkII
  On
  the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington RI
   
   
  

   

  



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Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎It's theoretical - in real life you can push it a bit!sam:-)From: Indigo via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 10:24 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: IndigoSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!According to the formula 1.34 x square root of lwl the theoretical max speed of my 35mkIII with an lwl of 28ft is 7.06 knots. I'd love to know how to get it going at higher speeds without surfing down the back of a wave!!--JonathanIndigo CC 35IIISOUTHPORT CTOn Aug 25, 2015, at 08:55, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:8 knots in a CC 26 with no current on a reach with white sails in 12 knots of wind?  Sounds more like a 30 one design.  Jerry. CC 27 V JJ. Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 25, 2015, at 12:15 AM, David Donnelly via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I will preface this by saying I consider myself a beginner hack sailor.I have often thought about trading my 135 for a 110. The 26 is tender for sure and I get plenty of grief from my bride whenever we go past 20 degrees. I often furl or reef the main when she is on board, and although performance increases the more upright we get, pointing is severely reduced. My favorite sailplan for over 12 kts is reefed main and full genoa. I do think my boat feels right at 20 to 25 degrees hard on the wind. I have found a bubble in the main to be faster when the wind picks up. Again, a hack playing and watching the speed.I have a harken traveler and I do have a split and adjustable backstay.I have never acheived the speeds you get. I saw over 7.3 kts once on the display while reaching but as I keep a Navionics log on my tablet as well it showed only 6.9 per the gps so I count that as my max speed.When I get new sails I am getting a 110 and perhaps 2 reefs in my main instead of the one I currently have. I think we're on the same page.David DonnellyCC 26 MistressSent from my Samsung device Original message From: Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 08-24-2015  8:34 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Sam Salter sam.c.sal...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts! I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so thought I’d share my thoughts on optimizing my sail plan.Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I thought we’d play around with the sail plan.Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I see the occasional whitecap it’s around 10kn)I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution Sails in Toronto (2 seasons). A Dacron main with 2 full and 2 partial battens from Leiche  McBride in Vancouver (5 seasons).I have a flexofold prop; 4-1 outhaul; Garhauer genoa cars; Harken traveller; Cunningham; Garhauer ridged vang; (no backstay adjuster)The CC 26 is a tender boat and we were doing about 5.5kn to 6kn beating to windward at 20deg – 25deg heel. Flattening with the outhaul reduced heel a bit. (speed measured with a Speed Puck)Furled the genoa to about 110%. Just brought the leech forward of the spreaders so no interference.Boat stood up to 13deg to 16deg. Speed was between 5.8kn – 6.4kn. Went up to 7kn or 8kn in the puffs (theoretical hull speed is 6.2kn) No bubble in the luff of the main.Obviously, the furled genoa wasn’t setting great and the starboard tack was better than port tack. On a beam reach I think she’d do 7kn or 8kn regularly.So here’s my thoughts:I’m thinking of getting the genoa recut to a 110% or if that’s not practical (...and I suspect it isn’t) order a new 110%.Eventually a new laminate main will be needed too!I’m well pleased with 6+kns at 10kn of wind and 16deg angle of heel. Very little weather helmI’ve not tried it yet with the genoa at 110% in light wind. In heavy air the main can still be reefed (...as could the 110%).OK guys, am I missing something?(I’m not looking for advice on where to buy used sails!)sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎A few things :My genoa is an almost new laminate sail; The main is only 5 short seasons old; I've got a folding propeller ; my bottom is smooth like a babies - I take it out every winter!‎; I’m measuring speed with a Speed Puck (GPS)The 8kn readings were brief and fleeting (not more than the 10secs to register in the instrument. The 7kn readings did register though, but they were not sustained - like the 6+kn readings were. During this whole time I was beating, which is why I pondered on the possibility of sustaining 7 or 8 on a beam reach.I fairly regularly exceed theoretical hull speed - If you're not, you're not trying ! The 26 is not known to be a fast boat. I've done a lot to get her faster. There are a lot of faster CC's on the water which is why the 26's aren't raced.And yes the 27 is faster!Sorry I pissed so many people off - I'll keep quiet in future! sam:-)From: dwight veinot via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, August 25, 2015 2:44 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: dwight veinotSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!sorry Russ, I thought he said a beam reach must have missed the part about puffs, still that's very fast for a 26 but if he can do it course be damned as you say, then good for himDwight VeinotCC 35 MKII, AliannaHead of St. Margaret's Bay, NSd.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 2:52 PM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

Hi Dwight,
Please reread Sam's message before getting out the pitchforks. He said 7
or 8, in the puffs. I would not characterize puffs as
"regular"... 
On a prairie lake I think his experience is quite achievable in hot
summer conditions when all you want to do is sail fast, course be
damned.

Cheers,
Russ
Sweet
mk-1

At 10:05 AM 25/08/2015, you wrote:
what do you mean by 7kn to 8kn
regularly? 
If you mean 7 knots or 8 knots through the water or over the ground with
a CC 26 I would say you should be a race winner every time on
corrected time; that is really fast for a CC 26 even on a beam reach
and I got a feeling you would probably leave my 35 MKII struggling to
stay close behind...before everyone runs out to get a CC 26 are you
sure about those numbers; I have only ever seen a couple of CC 26's
around here...I don't remember them being quite that slippery, in fact my
CC 27 MKIII always seemed to be much faster on all points of
sail
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net

On Mon, Aug 24, 2015 at 11:34 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:



I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so thought I’d share my
thoughts on optimizing my sail plan.

Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!

 

Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I
thought we’d play around with the saill plan.

Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I ssee the
occasional whitecap it’s around 10kn)

 

I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution Sails in Toronto (2
seasons). A Dacron main with 2 full and 2 partial battens from Leiche
 McBride in Vancouver (5 seasons).

 

I have a flexofold prop; 4-1 outhaul; Garhauer genoa cars; Harken
traveller; Cunningham; Garhauer ridged vang; (no backstay
adjuster)

 

The CC 26 is a tender boat and we were doing about 5.5kn to 6kn
beating to windward at 20deg – 25deg heel. Flattening with the outhaul
reduced heel a bit. (speed measured with a Speed Puck)

Furled the genoa to about 110%. Just brought the leech forward of the
spreaders so no interference.

Boat stood up to 13deg to 16deg. Speed was between 5.8kn – 6.4kn.
Went up to 7kn or 8kn in the puffs (theoretical hulll speed is 6.25kn) No
bubble in the luff of the main.

Obviously, the furled genoa wasn’t setting great and the starboard
tack was better than port tack. On a beam reach I think she’d do 7kn or
8kn regularly.

 

So here’s my thoughts:

I’m thinking of getting the genoa recut to a 110% or if that’s
not practical (...and I suspect it isn’t) order a new 110%.

Eventually a new laminate main will be needed too!

I’m well pleased with 6+kns at 10kn of wind and 16deg angle of
heel. Very little weather helm

I’ve not tried it yet with the genoa at 110% in light wind. In
heavy air the main can still be reefed (...as could the 110%).

 

OK guys, am I missing something?

(I’m not looking 

Stus-List CC 26 Sail Plan Thoughts!

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I know there’s a few 26 owners on here so thought I’d share my thoughts on 
optimizing my sail plan.
Jump in anyone, I’m open to any thoughts!

Was out sailing today, only boat on the lake – I love that! So I thought we’d 
play around with the sail plan.
Wind was 8kn -12kn. (Estimate – I usually think if I see the occasional 
whitecap it’s around 10kn)

I have a 135% laminate genoa from Evolution Sails in Toronto (2 seasons). A 
Dacron main with 2 full and 2 partial battens from Leiche  McBride in 
Vancouver (5 seasons).

I have a flexofold prop; 4-1 outhaul; Garhauer genoa cars; Harken traveller; 
Cunningham; Garhauer ridged vang; (no backstay adjuster)

The CC 26 is a tender boat and we were doing about 5.5kn to 6kn beating to 
windward at 20deg – 25deg heel. Flattening with the outhaul reduced heel a bit. 
(speed measured with a Speed Puck)
Furled the genoa to about 110%. Just brought the leech forward of the spreaders 
so no interference.
Boat stood up to 13deg to 16deg. Speed was between 5.8kn – 6.4kn. Went up to 
7kn or 8kn in the puffs (theoretical hull speed is 6.25kn) No bubble in the 
luff of the main.
Obviously, the furled genoa wasn’t setting great and the starboard tack was 
better than port tack. On a beam reach I think she’d do 7kn or 8kn regularly.

So here’s my thoughts:
I’m thinking of getting the genoa recut to a 110% or if that’s not practical 
(...and I suspect it isn’t) order a new 110%.
Eventually a new laminate main will be needed too!
I’m well pleased with 6+kns at 10kn of wind and 16deg angle of heel. Very 
little weather helm
I’ve not tried it yet with the genoa at 110% in light wind. In heavy air the 
main can still be reefed (...as could the 110%).

OK guys, am I missing something?
(I’m not looking for advice on where to buy used sails!)

sam :-)
CC 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta

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Stus-List Wi-Fi on Charter

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

 ‎When I was in the BVI’s in November and Antigua in January, some of the charter companies were offering Wi-Fi on the boats.Don't know the price 'cause I didn't take the option. sam:-)

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Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

2GM20F - I’m about to replace the mixing elbow - got the part.

There’s a pipe joint between the mixing elbow and the exhaust elbow that screws 
into both parts.

Do I screw this piece in dry or (more likely) use some sort of sealant?

If I need sealant - what do you guys suggest?

I’ve got a tube of high temp silicone left over from installing my garage 
heater, is this stuff OK? If not - what???






sam :-)

CC 26 Liquorice

Ghost Lake Alberta___

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Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Patrick,

$2k is a small price to pay for all the future enjoyment you can potentially 
get out of The Boat
Unless you were thinking of selling and getting out of sailing before this 
discovery, I'd invest the money.
It won't increase the value of the boat, but it sure will make you happy when 
you're out there sailing.
If you get rid of the boat you'll end up going to Bingo nights and bus tours of 
Bouchard Gardens.
A slippery slope my friend; a slippery slope!

Sam :-)
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta


On 2015-06-01, at 6:15 PM, Patrick Wesley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place where 
 the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u bolt to 
 which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the leak. Several 
 weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on the tie rod at the top 
 and asked a rigger to check it out. He says that the tie rods are aluminum 
 and corrode when moisture gets to them. First they push the deck up (which 
 he says is already happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part 
 needs further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing 
 both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the rods 
 or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem.
  
 
 My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into an 
 older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat because I 
 can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford it! Gives me a lot 
 of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated.
 
  
 
 Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate the 
 feed-back.
 
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Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎The hose from pump outlet to heat exchanger is quite a complex shape, with 
some tight clearances around the pulleys. I'd fork out for a Yanmar hose (I 
did). If the first one lasted 30 years, this one will probably see you out. 

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: S Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 9:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Recirculating pump

Ordinary automotive heater hose will work fine, and it will last about as 
long as it does in a car, which is quite a while. Most of us don't drive 
around in 30 year old cars, but we do sail around in 30 year old boats, so 
the fact that the original hoses are getting tired shouldn't deter us from 
using the same type as original hoses. Silicone hose is available from speed 
shops, and the blue or green colour would look cool too, but at a price. It 
has more heat and chemical resistance, but with slightly less mechanical 
strength, so the tube walls are made thicker.

Steve Thomas
CC20 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
On the hard, in the rain.

- Original Message - 
From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 10:33
Subject: Stus-List Recirculating pump


Hi all,

The bearings were starting to go on my freshwater coolant recirculating 
pump. I have a Yanmar 2GM20F. I decided to tackle the job myself and 
yesterday I removed the old pump. While disconnecting the hoses, I noticed 
that most of them also need replacing.

Can anyone tell me what type of hose should be used for this application?

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama
CC 33 mk ii
Toronto

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Have you checked with Rig-Rite, they always seem to have what I'm looking for? 

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Bill Bina via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2015 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Bina
Subject: Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter 
hole. On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just 
the holes in the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink 
tubing at one time to make up the difference. There really is not room 
for anything thicker. It seems so loose, but it really is not much of a 
gap at all. Just enough for an annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long 
of I don't wedge a length of pool noodle between the rudder and transom 
before turning in for the night.

There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon 
holes to fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the 
pin to 7/16 inch to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very 
thin shrink tubing. Note that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous 
piece the length of the pin, as it will not fit through the hole in the 
rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a problem as it might seem. I may 
even remove the piece over next winter and have Garhaur or some other 
machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a model. If I take 
that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and room for 
replaceable generic plastic bushings.

Bill Bina

On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:
 The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space
 if any to squeeze a bushing in there.

 Brent
 Lake Winnipeg.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent
 machinist should be able to make them.

 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC

 On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I would try nylon bushings before replacing. Had them on my
 Rhodes 19. Jerry. 27mkv. JJ

 Sent from my iPhone

  On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
  Good day.
  I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my
 transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty
 hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to
 replace them. My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has
 anyone replaced theirs and what did you use.
  Cheers
 
  Brent Driedger
  27 MkV
  Lake Winnipeg.
 
  Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  What does bad lubrication oil look like? sam:-)From: S Thomas via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 5:01 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: S ThomasSubject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start






If it is cranking at the usual speed, then the 
compression might be off a bit in one of the cylinders. This can happen if one 
of the piston rings has got stuck over the winter. I would warm up the engine 
good and hot and then take for a run.Run it fairly hard for a couple of 
hours so long as everything appears to be ok. That should get the carbon out, if 
there is any, and it might loosen up a seized ring. 

Black smoke is a sign of a rich mix, but it means 
little if you have just started the engine after a period of cranking it for a 
while. 

If you did not change the oil last fall, then now 
is the time to change it. I don't know why, but I have found that lubricating 
oil sitting for a while in diesel engines is more likely to go bad than in 
gasoline engines.Maybe it isclimate dependent, but that has been my 
experience limited thoughthat may be. 

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Edd 
  Schillay via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
  Cc: Edd Schillay 
  Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 18:07
  Subject: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder 
  to Start
  
  Listers,
  
  I find I'm having a harder time getting the engine started and seeing a 
  little bit of darker smoke when it does turn over, as compared to last 
  season.
  
  Once running, everything seems fine -- temperature, water flow, 
  revolutions, etc.
  
  Any ideas or suggestions?
  
  Usually, my solution to engine problems is "get the jib out."
  
  All the best,
  
  Edd
  
  ---
  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  NCC-1701-B
  CC 37+ | City Island, NY
  www.StarshipSailing.com
  ---
  914.332.4400 | Office
  914.774.9767 | Mobile
  ---
  Sent via iPhone 6
  iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
  
  

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Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  Diesel engine oil is supposed to look black - it's like that a half hour after you start the engine - by design. sam:-)From: Jim Watts via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 6:48 PMTo: 1 CnC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Jim WattsSubject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to StartIt's black. Jim WattsParadigm ShiftCC 35 Mk IIIVictoria, BC
On 24 May 2015 at 16:59, Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:  What does bad lubrication oil look like? sam:-)From: S Thomas via CnC-ListSent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 5:01 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: S ThomasSubject: Re: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder to Start






If it is cranking at the usual speed, then the 
compression might be off a bit in one of the cylinders. This can happen if one 
of the piston rings has got stuck over the winter. I would warm up the engine 
good and hot and then take for a run.Run it fairly hard for a couple of 
hours so long as everything appears to be ok. That should get the carbon out, if 
there is any, and it might loosen up a seized ring. 

Black smoke is a sign of a rich mix, but it means 
little if you have just started the engine after a period of cranking it for a 
while. 

If you did not change the oil last fall, then now 
is the time to change it. I don't know why, but I have found that lubricating 
oil sitting for a while in diesel engines is more likely to go bad than in 
gasoline engines.Maybe it isclimate dependent, but that has been my 
experience limited thoughthat may be. 

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Edd 
  Schillay via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
  Cc: Edd Schillay 
  Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2015 18:07
  Subject: Stus-List Darker Smoke, Harder 
  to Start
  
  Listers,
  
  I find I'm having a harder time getting the engine started and seeing a 
  little bit of darker smoke when it does turn over, as compared to last 
  season.
  
  Once running, everything seems fine -- temperature, water flow, 
  revolutions, etc.
  
  Any ideas or suggestions?
  
  Usually, my solution to engine problems is "get the jib out."
  
  All the best,
  
  Edd
  
  ---
  Edd M. Schillay
  Starship Enterprise
  NCC-1701-B
  CC 37+ | City Island, NY
  www.StarshipSailing.com
  ---
  914.332.4400 | Office
  914.774.9767 | Mobile
  ---
  Sent via iPhone 6
  iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
  
  

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Re: Stus-List Starting problems

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎I had a similar problem 3 seasons ago.It was bad or corroded connections and wiring.35 years is pretty good, but everything needs replacing eventually.I replaced all the major electrical lines around the batteries, main switch and engine with pre made auto lines from Canadian Tire (maybe Autozone in the US). Cost was about $65 CDN for my 26No more problems since. sam:-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake AlbertaFrom: Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: Friday, May 22, 2015 7:58 AMTo: CnClistReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Dennis C.Subject: Re: Stus-List Starting problemsJust a caution, a check of voltage or resistance is only a part of the puzzle. If the connection(s) on one or both ends are corroded, it may still pass a small amount of current to show voltage but may not pass enough current to support the user, i.e. pump or starter, etc.Connections must be clean to pass current.Dennis C.On Fri, May 22, 2015 at 8:00 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:Derek,Sounds like you have an intermittent wiring problem. Grab your voltmeter and check each connection.Could also be your starter solenoid.Good luck.All the best,Edd---Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseNCC-1701-BCC 37+ | City Island, NYwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.332.4400 | Office914.774.9767 | Mobile---Sent via iPhone 6iPhone. iTypos. iApologizeOn May 22, 2015, at 8:32 AM, Tortuga via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:I’m having ignition problems with the 2QM15 engine in my CC
30 mk1. Normally, when the main switch is turned to on, the oil pressure alarm
sounds. Pressing the starter button starts the engine and
the alarm stops.

This season, after a few successful starts, when I turned
the main switch on one day there was no alarm and nothing happened when I
pressed the starter. No cranking. Not a sound. My batteries spent the winter in
my basement and were fully charged. As well, shore power was plugged in and the
charger showed full charge on both batteries. 

This happened once or twice last season but when I repeated the
process the engine started. 

I assumed that the main switch was worn out and ordered a
replacement Yanmar switch from Rosborough Boats. It was my first dealing with
them and I was very impressed. Rob Manual had a new switch to me within a day. 

I had carefully labelled and photographed the connections at
the old switch before removing it, but when I installed the new one it didn’t
solve my problem. When I keyed the switch on, I got a very weak sounding alarm
and pressing the starter button got no reaction.

I’m unskilled at tracing problems, so thought I’d ask for
help. Thanks in advanceDerek Kennedy

TortugaCC 30 mk1

Ballantyne’s Cove, NS
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Re: Stus-List Forward hatch support rod

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎http://www.hhns.ca/sam:-)From: TOM VINCENT via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, May 21, 2015 8:08 AMTo: CC ForumReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: TOM VINCENTSubject: Stus-List Forward hatch support rodThe spring that keeps the support rod connected to the hatch is broken. Where do I find a replacement for a 36' 1979 CC?Tom VincentFrolic IIChesapeake City, MDSent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

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Re: Stus-List Mast on cc 33 MKII

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Rig-Rite / Holland Marine / South Shore Yachts

sam :-)
  Original Message  
From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 4:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Stus-List Mast on cc 33 MKII


I've tried a search and am unable to find the manufacturer of the mast on my 
1985 cnc 33 MKII, need to order new guides for the spin pole car as one is 
broken, any ideas?
Thanx
Brad
C  C 33 Pulse
Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
from my iPad!
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar questions for all you experts

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Mike,


Just looked in my 2GM20 parts manual:


121000-42100 is a replacement water pump with impeller/bearings/gasket and 
pulley flange that bolts into the thermostat casting as a module. THIS IS THE 
ONE YOU WANT!


128695-42010 is as above, but also includes the thermostat casting that above 
bolts into. I doubt you need that one.






sam :-)

CC 26 Liquorice

Ghost Lake Alberta






From: CnC
Sent: ‎Wednesday‎, ‎May‎ ‎13‎, ‎2015 ‎8‎:‎12‎ ‎AM
To: CnC
Cc: Hoyt, Mike






Engine: Yanmar 3GM30F

 

Have come across two part numbers at different costs.

 

1.  128695-42010 “Cooling Fresh Water Pump” .  Generally selling for around 
$270 USD

 

2.  121000-42100 “Fresh Water Pump Assembly”.  Selling $176.95 CAD at boat 
house

 

 

Is the second a component of the first?  Anyone know the difference and which 
is needed to be replaced when the seals start to go resulting in the leak from 
weeping port?

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax___

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Re: Stus-List halyards

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎I did this on my 26 about 6 years ago.Originally I just replaced the line as I didn't have the mast down. The sheaves were in okay shape and the wire / rope sheaves didn't chew up the new line.When I had the mast down 3 season ago, I replaced the sheaves. You need the mast down as you need to remove the sheave box to get at the sheaves.‎I got new, exact size sheaves made from Zephyrwerks out of Port Townsend, Washington. Delrin with a brass bushing. $38 US each.While I had the mast down, I removed the topping lift and turned the main halyard into a 2:1 purchase by bringing it down through A Wichard, stainless steel saddle shackle (for the head of the main) and ‎back up to the old topping lift pin at the head of the mast.I know it sounds ‎overkill, but I can get the main up now, right to the black stripe by hand. Just a couple of turns of the winch to set the draft position.(I replaced the topping lift with a Garhauer rigid vang. sam:-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake AlbertaFrom: Allen White via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, May 7, 2015 5:42 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Allen WhiteSubject: Stus-List halyardsI am sure this has been on the list before, but I cannot find it.The wire to rope halyards on my 26 are done. I think I should go to all rope. Pros , cons Does anyone know a good source for replacement sheaves ? Allen Rhinebeck, NY C  C 26 Windfall 



	
		
			

			
		
		
			
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: Stus-List Lazy Jacks

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎I put mine on the spreaders, halfway along, underneath.sam:-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake AlbertaFrom: David Paine via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 8:15 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: David PaineSubject: Stus-List Lazy JacksI am planning to install lazy jacks on my CC 33-1. Something simple with rings instead of blocks. The two top most lines attach ... where? I'm aiming for half way between the spreaders and the top of the mast. How long should the top piece be (ie where does the first split occur? Appreciate any insights!David


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Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

  ‎...so was Isam:-)From: Josh Muckley via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 5:09 PMTo: CC ListReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Josh MuckleySubject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only"What's a cross over elbow?" I was wondering the same thing...
On May 5, 2015 6:29 PM, "Richard Bush via CnC-List" cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:OK, what's a crossover elbow?

 On May 5, 2015, at 5:58 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Tom
I had the same problem and it turned out to be the crossover elbow, changed it and the problem went away. You can get a kit with all new bolts and gaskets from oldport marine in Newport RI. (Yanmar 3gm30) I hear it is a common thing. It was easy to do.

   Gary Kolc
  Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I clean my copper tube heat exchanger with 1/8" diameter wooden dowels bought from an art supply store like Michaels. Once a year. Pipe cleaners would be better, but can't find them anymore.


 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 - Original Message -

 From: "svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List" cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2015 12:51:55 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only



 If you have a heat exchanger, that could be getting clogged. Open the end/s and look at the tubes. Sea water flows through these cooling the coolant. Over time they plug up and need to be cleaned. I use a long drill bit and doubled up 0.040 safety wire, then a bore brush.







 Doug Mountjoy

 svPegasus

 LF38

 just west of Ballard, WA.




 -- Original message--

 From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List

 Date: Mon, May 4, 2015 18:19

 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ;

 Subject: Stus-List Overheating as high RPM only We did a run last weekend to a local harbor for the weekend. Windwas fluky and it was a short trip so we were motoring. Alera has aYanmar 3HM35 with around 700 original hours and was running fine at ourusual cruising RPM of 26-2800 on the tach. The hot alarm went offand I let her cool down and then ran at a lower ROM (1800 or so) and nomore alarms. When I got to our destination, I cleaned out the rawwater trap as it was pretty crapped up. On the way back the alarmwent off again but this time all I had to do was throttle back to around2200 and it was fine. Much less steam/smoke that on the wayout.

 Today I checked the fan belt on the pump and it was a little loose so Itightened that. I'll be getting her hauled next week for a pressurewash, prop grease and zinc replacement, and will check the intakethen.

 Aside from the intake, belt and crap trap, anything else I shouldcheck?

 Tom B


 Tom Buscaglia
 SV Alera
 1990 CC 37+/40
 Vashon Island WA
 (206) 463-9200
 www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Freezing cockpit drains solved

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Changing the subject slightly, my cockpit drains are not crossed, they go 
straight down, and work fine.
I don't get the theory of crossing drains. Seems to me that a crossed drain 
will start to approach horizontal as the boat heels and work less well.

So what's the logic behind crossed cockpit drains?

sam :-)
CC 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2015-03-15, at 11:38 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 CC must have bought miles of that stuff. Every line in my boat was done that 
 way. Sanitary, drains, vents exhaust pipe. And it all cracked. 
 
 Brent
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg. 
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Mar 15, 2015, at 9:25 AM, John McKay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I experience the same thing, the cockpit had about 5 inches of water in it 
 during a thaw earlier this winter.
 
 Another project to put on the list for the new Mark II.
 
 john from Enterprise.
 
 
 
 On Sunday, March 15, 2015 10:19 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 A couple of weeks ago I posted that the cockpit drains on my 33 mkii were 
 frozen and the hoses had popped off. Upon investigation, I found that there 
 was a low spot in the criss-crossed drains. I am not sure whether they were 
 originally installed with a low spot or they just sagged over the years. In 
 any event, I removed the old hoses which were type B fuel lines reinforced 
 with steel wire. (had to cut them off with recip saw) and installed 
 sanitation type hoses double clamped with no low spots. So far, so good, 
 they always allow the water to drain off, no ice.
  
 Mike Amirault
 CC33 mkii lovely Cruise
 St Margarets Bay, N.S.
 
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Re: Stus-List Freezing cockpit drains solved

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Most things crack after 35 years or so!

sam :-)

On 2015-03-15, at 11:38 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 CC must have bought miles of that stuff. Every line in my boat was done that 
 way. Sanitary, drains, vents exhaust pipe. And it all cracked. 
 
 Brent
 27-5
 Lake Winnipeg. 
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Mar 15, 2015, at 9:25 AM, John McKay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I experience the same thing, the cockpit had about 5 inches of water in it 
 during a thaw earlier this winter.
 
 Another project to put on the list for the new Mark II.
 
 john from Enterprise.
 
 
 
 On Sunday, March 15, 2015 10:19 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 
 A couple of weeks ago I posted that the cockpit drains on my 33 mkii were 
 frozen and the hoses had popped off. Upon investigation, I found that there 
 was a low spot in the criss-crossed drains. I am not sure whether they were 
 originally installed with a low spot or they just sagged over the years. In 
 any event, I removed the old hoses which were type B fuel lines reinforced 
 with steel wire. (had to cut them off with recip saw) and installed 
 sanitation type hoses double clamped with no low spots. So far, so good, 
 they always allow the water to drain off, no ice.
  
 Mike Amirault
 CC33 mkii lovely Cruise
 St Margarets Bay, N.S.
 
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Re: Stus-List Forum vs Email

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

No, you’re right.

The last time I was on “Photoalbum” it was there.

Guess it’s been longer than I remembered.





sam :-)






From: Robert Gallagher
Sent: ‎Saturday‎, ‎March‎ ‎14‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎23‎ ‎PM
To: Sam Salter, CnC





Sam,
I thought those forums had been gone for a while.  I just looked and could not 
find a link on the cncphotoalbum.com  Am I missing something?



On Sat, Mar 14, 2015 at 10:57 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote:



‎There is a forum on the Photoalbum, but nobody uses it much. 




sam :-)

CC 26 Liquorice 

Ghost Lake Alberta 






From: Robert Gallagher via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2015 8:10 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: Robert Gallagher

Subject: Stus-List Forum vs Email





Hi all,



I would prefer a forum.  That being said, for the amount of original traffic, 
I'm not sure we could use our own forum.  Most of the email text we get now is 
repetitive.




Sailnet has a CC section.  Sailboatowners.com used to have a CC 
sight/section.  I'm pretty sure Stew had a forum on the Photoalbum.com




I wonder if someone like Sailnet (or some other commercial site) would give us 
a password protected area to post our own questions.  It would still drive us 
to their site and might not cost anything.




Then again, attaching a forum to the photoalbum would drive more traffic there.




We don't really need much.  Often forums get diluted with multiple sections 
that may not get posts for weeks.  Also, there is the inevitable politics and 
religion that we seem to be free of in our email community.




Rob

Hanuman

30 MKII___

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I'm easy either way.
I'll go with the majority.

sam :-)

On 2015-03-13, at 3:32 PM, Stu via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to have 
 a “Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email list 
 (like this one).
  
 PROS:
 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list
 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails.
 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads.
 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums.
 5. Easily moderated by more than one person.  Threads can be deleted and 
 undesirable subscribers blocked.
 6. No more 20-30 emails a day.  Visit the site at your convenience and view 
 the latest topics since your last visit.
  
 CONS:
 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional 
 enhancements.
 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. 
 ()
 3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time.  And a bit 
 more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection.
  
 Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list?  It 
 does not matter to me.
  
 Stu
  
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Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

http://www.yachtingworld.com/blogs/elaine-bunting/comment-how-the-team-vestas-wind-crash-really-happened-and-the-surprisingly-simple-things-we-can-learn-from-it-62634?elqTrackId=244797bc7870487dab6568ea90f95c29elqaid=15257elqat=1



Interesting reading!

If I think about it, I’ve got a bit lax lately, relying more and more on 
digital charts.

I’m going to get a bit more rigorous from now on and use/check my paper charts 
a lot more.






sam :-)

CC 26  Liquorice

Ghost Lake  Alberta___

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Re: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

They actually had the charts, but didn’t look!






sam :-)






From: Martin DeYoung
Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎March‎ ‎10‎, ‎2015 ‎3‎:‎17‎ ‎PM
To: Sam Salter, CnC






I always have a paper chart(s) as a back-up to the chart plotter.  For offshore 
passages I also carry a sextant and the materials needed to reduce a sight.

 

I am surprised that professional, highly paid, top of their industry navigators 
and skippers to not have even a large area overview chart on paper.

 

Maybe it is a generational thing that I do not trust electronics to stand 
between me and a safe passage.

 


Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 CC 43

Seattle


 Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F 

 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 1:22 PM
To: CnC
Subject: Stus-List Volvo Reef Grounding Report

 




http://www.yachtingworld.com/blogs/elaine-bunting/comment-how-the-team-vestas-wind-crash-really-happened-and-the-surprisingly-simple-things-we-can-learn-from-it-62634?elqTrackId=244797bc7870487dab6568ea90f95c29elqaid=15257elqat=1


 


Interesting reading!


If I think about it, I’ve got a bit lax lately, relying more and more on 
digital charts.


I’m going to get a bit more rigorous from now on and use/check my paper charts 
a lot more.

 



 


sam :-)


CC 26  Liquorice


Ghost Lake  Alberta___

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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I've not used them yet, but previous Threads about hatches on this list have 
suggested these guys too:
http://hatchrepair.com/
(Hammerhead Nautical Systems)

I believe the owner used to work for AH (not sure about that last bit!)

sam :-)
CC 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2015-02-24, at 9:34 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 http://www.hatchmasters.com 
 
 has parts for just about any hatch ever made. If you don't see what you need 
 on their website, shoot them an email or give them a call. 
 
 Bill Bina
 
 On 2/24/2015 11:29 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
 Does anybody know who the hatch manufacture for the CC in 1981? I need to 
 replace the glass and the gasket on mine and im trying to find a souse for 
 the gasket/
 
 
 thanks 
 
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
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Stus-List Antigua Sailing

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Got back from 2 weeks sailing Antigua at the end of January and thought I'd 
share with the list:

If you've had enough of the BVI's - I know that's hard to imagine - Antigua is 
a different experience. We enjoyed it so much, we're booked up to go back in 
November.

Sailing is a bit more like open ocean sailing with bigger seas. Navigation is a 
little more challenging - nothing to worry about but interesting. Maybe just 
different from the BVI's.

A lot more private boats than charter boats, and some really big boats ($M) 
both sail and power.
We chartered a Dufour 425 from Dream Yachtcharters in Jolly Harbour. Very 
clean, everything worked and sailed real well.

Only 2 islands to explore - Antigue and Barbuda.
Barbuda is less developed, sort of like Anageda in the BVI's. While there, we 
were one of 3 boats anchored off an 11 mile beach. BBQ'd lobster available - 
yum!
Antigua has an interesting old dockyard - Nelson's Dockyard - that has been 
restored and is now a marina with shops and restaurants. Mediterranean Mooring 
here.

Very clean; less developed; no crime (that I noticed); more anchoring - less 
mooring; nice people.

Somewhere different to go, if you need a change from the BVI's, but still need 
sun.

sam :-)
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
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Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Engineers know stuff!  sam :-) From: dwight veinot via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 12:15 PMTo: Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: dwight veinotSubject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41RickIs it really true that the designers at CC expected glued on acryllic ports to stiffen the whole boatDwight VeinotCC 35 MKII, AliannaHead of St. Margaret's Bay, NSd.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be less stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested onlooker to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years ago in a similar thread has been lost here.The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and helped to stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better part of 30 years on our old boats. And the comments about damaging gel oat when removing old portlights speaks to its tenacity as an adhesive.Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and sealers. (And also a PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using the primer.) I used Sika 295 on my rebuilt hatches, and it is great for car windshields (which are bedded in rubber so the window does not crack as the car body flexes) but it remains flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've gotten the impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to leaks in a few years, and polycarbonate portlights held in by screws tend to get cracks at the stress points.As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight solutions and I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not stylish aluminum frames. I just wanted to remind the group about why the frameless portlights were glued in by CC in the first place.Rick BrassSent from my iPadOn Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last Spring. We used 3M fuselage tape - and although the prep was a lot of work, we are very pleased with the end result.All the best,Edd---Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseNCC-1701-BCC 37+ | City Island, NYwww.StarshipSailing.com---914.332.4400 | Office914.774.9767 | Mobile---Sent via iPhone 6iPhone. iTypos. iApologizeOn Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would definitely need the screws/bolts.
Fred Street -- MinneapolisS/VOceanis(1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI:^(

On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were attached by screws? What about bolts all the way through to some nice wood trim that would "clamp" the cabin top sides between the windows and interior trim?___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___

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Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Well, I was using Finite Element Analysis in the early seventies; Cassion was 
an aeronautical engineer (I think) so he’d know how to do it.

But you’re right, I doubt they got into that much detail back then.

…but then again these are still pretty hot boats!!!






sam :-)






From: Graham Collins
Sent: ‎Thursday‎, ‎February‎ ‎12‎, ‎2015 ‎3‎:‎51‎ ‎PM
To: Sam Salter, CnC





Maybe, but the 80s was the infancy of finite element design - which one would 
want to use to properly evaluate the stiffening effects of rigid windows.  
Given that using computers for hull layout was new I really doubt that this is 
an engineered in property.  Maybe Rob can comment on that?

As a mechanical engineer I can say I've replaced my windows using Sika, and am 
happy with that decision.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
CC 35-III #11
On 2015-02-12 5:17 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:


‎Engineers know stuff! 




sam :-)



From: dwight veinot via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2015 12:15 PM

To: Rick Brass; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: dwight veinot

Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41





Rick


Is it really true that the designers at CC expected glued on acryllic ports to 
stiffen the whole boat







Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net





On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 10:21 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



I have the aluminum frame windows on both my boats, which I consider to be less 
stylish but much more practical, so I'm basically just an interested onlooker 
to this discussion. But it seems to me a point made several years ago in a 
similar thread has been lost here.




The frameless windows were glued into the deck/cabin structure and helped to 
stiffen it, which also helps to stiffen the whole boat.




Plexus seems a right PITA to use, but it has lasted the better part of 30 years 
on our old boats. And the comments about damaging gel oat when removing old 
portlights speaks to its tenacity as an adhesive.




Sika 295uv, and the 3M equivalent, are great adhesives and sealers. (And also a 
PITA to use. Don't even THINK about not using the primer.)  I used Sika 295 on 
my rebuilt hatches, and it is great for car windshields (which are bedded in 
rubber so the window does not crack as the car body flexes) but it remains 
flexible. And from the previous discussions on the list I've gotten the 
impression that the hull and deck flexing leads to leaks in a few years, and 
polycarbonate portlights held in by screws tend to get cracks at the stress 
points.




As I said, I have no real experience with the glued in portlight solutions and 
I'm happy with my simple, cheap, durable, but not stylish aluminum frames. I 
just wanted to remind the group about why the frameless portlights were glued 
in by CC in the first place.




Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad




On Feb 8, 2015, at 20:38, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:





We have the frameless windows and did the replacement last Spring. We used 3M 
fuselage tape - and although the prep was a lot of work, we are very pleased 
with the end result. 





All the best,




Edd




---

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

NCC-1701-B

CC 37+ | City Island, NY

www.StarshipSailing.com

---

914.332.4400  | Office

914.774.9767  | Mobile

---

Sent via iPhone 6

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Feb 8, 2015, at 8:24 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



That might work; but butyl’s NOT an adhesive, so you would definitely need the 
screws/bolts.



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 


On Feb 8, 2015, at 7:22 PM, Gary Zuehlke via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:


Would the butyl tape work on frameless windows that were attached by screws?  
What about bolts all the way through to some nice wood trim that would clamp 
the cabin top sides between the windows and interior trim?


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Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Forgot to add CC in the "to" line!  sam :-) From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.comSent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 9:09 AMTo: prf...@gmail.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom VangI bought one in 2005 for my 26.Probably the same model - I paid $209 CDN ‎new.  sam :-) From: Peter Fell via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 2:57 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Peter FellSubject: Stus-List Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang



I’m talking to a fellow here that has a Garhauer rigid vang for sale, from 
a CC 30. Matching it up to info online I think it’s a RV20-1 ... an older 
model, not the current one.

I’m trying to get more specifics on this actual unit, but I’ve seen 
references online dated 2002 and 2006, so it’s at least in that age range.

I realize there may have to be some mods to adapt the boom and mast tangs 
to the 27’s mast.

Anyone got any clue what the boom vang might be worth?

Peter 
FellSidney, BCCygnetCC 27 MkIII


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Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering Props

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Not sure if this helps, but Flexofold recommended 2 blade 15 x 9 for my 26.I ended up putting on a 2 blade 13 x 11 because I don't have enough clearance between shaft and hull.Drives the boat to hull speed.  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Alan Lombard via CnC-ListSent: Saturday, January 31, 2015 2:10 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Alan LombardSubject: Re: Stus-List Folding/feathering PropsHello Gary,I too have a CC 30 and am debating either a Gori or a FlexoFold. Do you remember what size Flexofold you have, and can you comment if it seems the right size. The recommendation Flexofold have made to me is 2-blade 15x11R. Thanks,Alan___

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Re: Stus-List Cunningham

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Yeah, I've got a bunch of sail trim books - most I keep in the bathroom where I have time to sit and cogitate!About 6 years ago I took an advanced sail trim course out of Bellingham, WA. Boat was a custom 52 ft Wylie (sp) with every conceivable sail trim option. Course was about $400 and well worth it. Gave me a whole new level of trim understanding.I'm an aeronautical engineer so I'm quite anal about sail trim and probably tweak more often than necessary, but it's all part of the fun.This stuff is not "rocket science " but I am one anyway!!!  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta(currently Dufour 42 / Jolly Harbour Antigua)  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 10:08 AMTo: Dan; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Marek DziedzicSubject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham



Sam, 

for some winter reading get yourself some books on trim and sail use and 
general sailing.

There are few online (PDF) sources that might be of interest (e.g.: http://sfbaysss.net/resource/doc/SinglehandedTipsThirdEdition.pdf, 
or http://setsail.com/mwh.pdf, or http://setsail.com/sts.pdf). 

But probably the best one book I could recommend is Don Guillette’s Sail 
Trim Guide (http://www.sailtrimproducts.com/sail_trim_users_guide.html). 
This might be the best $25 you ever spend on the boat.

Marek




From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2015 6:42 AM
To: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cunningham


Sam, 

Well for certain I’m filled with envy considering I’m sitting in the 
Pacific North West and thought last weekends 63 degrees was fantastic for 
sailing (winds 10 - 15 KTS). But I’d much rather be where you are! 
I’m a relatively new sailor with a 26’ that I’ve had for about 6 months - and 
I’m always anxious to learn the nuances of the boat. It came with a large 
selection of very nice sails (6) and my first attempts at sailing her went very 
well and I was solo. While new at sailing boats I have a lifetime of using 
the wind for power with over 30 years as a hang glider pilot, wind surfer, and 
paraglider pilot. So it’s learning the mechanics of how best to set sails; 
at this point the proper way of raising the sails. I’m taking ASA sailing 
lessons in April which should show me some of the equipment that I’m not 
familiar with. If you have any words of wisdom aside from sitting in a bar 
in Antigua, sounds so nice, I surely appreciate it.

Kind Regards,

Dan Utinske
CC 26'




Dan

On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 1:00 PM, Sam Salter 
via CnC-List wrote:

  
  
  ‎I'm sitting 
  here in a bar on the dock in Jolly Harbour, Antigua. 
  The boat 
  we’re sailing doesn't have one and I must admit I didn't miss it - you can 
  work around it and the sailing priorities are different. 
  But I have 
  one on the 26 and I have a jack line.
  I wouldn't be 
  without it! I use it all the time to bring the draft forward without cupping 
  the leech. If you're racing, it allows the draft to be brought forward without 
  going above the black line.
  That's all - 
  I need another gin and tonic.
  
  Sam 
  :-)
  
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Stus-List Cunningham

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

 ‎I'm sitting here in a bar on the dock in Jolly Harbour, Antigua.The boat we’re sailing doesn't have one and I must admit I didn't miss it - you can work around it and the sailing priorities are different.But I have one on the 26 and I have a jack line.I wouldn't be without it! I use it all the time to bring the draft forward without cupping the leech. If you're racing, it allows the draft to be brought forward without going above the black line.That's all - I need another gin and tonic.Sam :-)

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Stus-List Fw: The stern squats at high speed

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I would have thought (no science here) if it had that much power, it could climb over its own bow wave and "escape " hull speed.(This is how a Flux-Capacitor works - trust me on this! )  sam :-) From: Robert Gallagher via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, January 14, 2015 1:11 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Robert GallagherSubject: Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speedSomeone correct me if I'm wrong on this...The stern of a displacement hull vessel will begin to submerge as you approach hull speed. It's settling into the trough of its own wake(s).Even kayaks do it.Someone told me a long time ago that a displacement vessel could "theoretically sink itself if it had enough power".YMMVRob
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Re: Stus-List CC 26 Prop Zinc

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎I was using "zincs" as a collective noun.Magnesiums or Aluminums doesn't trip off the to tongue‎ like "zincs ".  sam :-) From: Letsgo SailingSent: Thursday, December 25, 2014 9:45 AMTo: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: RE: Stus-List CC 26 Prop  ZincYou have to keep in mind zinc is for salty waters, for fresh water you need to use magnesium or at least cast aluminum.Merry Christmas to all.Yanni Boatless in OntarioNot for long…92 Lebaron 3.0 convertible95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo convertible90 Dodge Spirit soon to be turbo07 Yamaha Straotoliner SSCRC 011059SRO 26-6483TURBO!cause bottles are for babies and superchargers blow!!!Which would you rather have, go fast goodies or shiny shoes?Your feet may look good but if your engine blows you ain't going nowhereFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter via CnC-ListSent: December 24, 2014 11:06 AMTo: CnCSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 26 Prop  Zinc‎My zincs are spherical with a 7/8" hole. Yours may have a different shaft size so check.They are available at any chandlery.If you have to replace the prop, this might be the time to upgrade to a folder. I recently replaced mine with a 2 blade Flexofold. Better speed under sail in light air, improved reverse thrust. Not cheap, but if you have to replace anyway, you're partway there anyway. My shaft is 7/8" with an SAE standard taper for the prop.sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake AlbertaFrom: Dan via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 8:17 AMTo: CnC-List@cnc-list.comReply To: DanSubject: Stus-List CC 26 Prop  ZincDiver who cleaned the hull of my CC says I need to change out the zinc and replace the prop. The prop had buildup and while clean now has the residue that will enhance further growth. The since is just normal wear and need replacing. Anyone have any idea where to find both the prop and zinc?Merry Christmas Everyone!!Dan

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Re: Stus-List CC 26 Prop Zinc

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎My zincs are spherical with a 7/8" hole. Yours may have a different shaft size so check.They are available at any chandlery.If you have to replace the prop, this might be the time to upgrade to a folder. I recently replaced mine with a 2 blade Flexofold. Better speed under sail in light air, improved reverse thrust. Not cheap, but if you have to replace anyway, you're partway there anyway. My shaft is 7/8" with an SAE standard taper for the prop.  sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Dan via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 8:17 AMTo: CnC-List@cnc-list.comReply To: DanSubject: Stus-List CC 26 Prop  Zinc

Diver who cleaned the hull of my CC says I need to change out the zinc and replace the prop. The prop had buildup and while clean now has the residue that will enhance further growth. The since is just normal wear and need replacing.
Anyone have any idea where to find both the prop and zinc?Merry Christmas Everyone!!
Dan
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Re: Stus-List CC 26' Blackwater Tank

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Dan,I don't think a blackwater system came as standard on a 26. I think it was just pump overboard. Late '70's wasn't that eco-friendly.  ‎However, my blackwater tank is under the V berth. But it looks like it was installed by a previous owner.My fresh water tanks are under the port settee, and there is just storage under the starboard settee. I don't think there is another convenient space other than under the V berth. sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Dan Utinske via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:42 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Dan UtinskeSubject: Stus-List CC 26' Blackwater TankAnyone know the location of the blackwater tank in CC 26' - I'm thinking that it's bout time to change hoses! I have drained and flushed but there is the beginning of an odor. We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and do keep it empty.Regards, Merry Christmas!!!DanCC 26' "Only Time"
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Re: Stus-List CC 26' Blackwater Tank

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎Dan,My pump out is on the‎ starboard side too.The "Y" valve, manual pump and through hull are on the port side, all under the V berth just forward of the head bulkhead. sam :-) From: Dan UtinskeSent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:23 PMTo: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List CC 26' Blackwater TankSam,It has the freshwater tank in the same location as yours so I suspect I'll find the holding tank where you suggest though the pump out is on the starboard side. I'm at a junction on if I should keep the current configuration and update the hoses or switch to the composite. I've read where boaters have used rigid PVC similar to what is used in a house and used smaller hoses at the connectors for flexibility. I'm not sure what I will do at this point. It would be great to take her out of the water and put in a very large temperature controlled workspace. :) The Pacific Northwest while mild, can be quite wet.Dan On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:‎Dan,I don't think a blackwater system came as standard on a 26. I think it was just pump overboard. Late '70's wasn't that eco-friendly.  ‎However, my blackwater tank is under the V berth. But it looks like it was installed by a previous owner.My fresh water tanks are under the port settee, and there is just storage under the starboard settee. I don't think there is another convenient space other than under the V berth. sam :-)CC 26 LiquoriceGhost Lake Alberta From: Dan Utinske via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 10:42 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Dan UtinskeSubject: Stus-List CC 26' Blackwater TankAnyone know the location of the blackwater tank in CC 26' - I'm thinking that it's bout time to change hoses! I have drained and flushed but there is the beginning of an odor. We don't use the toilet while moored in the marina and do keep it empty.Regards, Merry Christmas!!!DanCC 26' "Only Time"
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Stus-List Fw: Yanmar 2GMF13 parts help

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

The fresh water cooled 2GM doesn't have any zincs. I bought my parts and s‎ervice manuals from Torresen Marine.  sam :-) From: Rick Brass via CnC-ListSent: Monday, December 15, 2014 7:30 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Rick BrassSubject: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF13 parts helpA friend bought a 1983 model CC with a Yanmar 2GMF13, serial number 05337. The engine has run great during the delivery to North Carolina, so I have no issues at the moment. But I am trying to help my friend get set up with parts and get any maintenance oversights by the PO taken care of.Is there any way to figure out the age of the engine based on the serial number? I have an Operating/Maintenance manual for the engine, along with an aftermarket service manual of somewhat dubious quality. Yanmar doesn’t appear to put the parts manual on line for easy access. Does anyone know where I can find a PDF version of a parts manual? Or a real Yanmar service manual?The maintenance manual shows a cooling system zinc in the back of the engine, and calls for replacement every 250 hours. I found a part number of 27210-200300 on the Mack Boring site, and that looks like a Yanmar part number. Does anyone know if it is correct? And I seem to recall conversation about there being two zincs on the Yanmar marine engines. Is there another zinc that should be replaced?An oil and filter change is high on the maintenance list. The Yanmar manual calls for straight 30 or 40 weight oil. I’ve only ever used Rotella 15-40 in diesel engines. Is there something about the engine that makes a single viscosity oil essential or preferable to a multi-grade oil? Maybe the small (only 2 liter) oil capacity?Rick BrassImzadi CC 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1Washington, NC___
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF13 parts help

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎I've been using Rotella 15W40 in mine for the last 10 years. I'm not sure you can even buy straight 30 weight oil anymore .  sam :-) From: Rick Brass via CnC-ListSent: Monday, December 15, 2014 7:30 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Rick BrassSubject: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF13 parts helpA friend bought a 1983 model CC with a Yanmar 2GMF13, serial number 05337. The engine has run great during the delivery to North Carolina, so I have no issues at the moment. But I am trying to help my friend get set up with parts and get any maintenance oversights by the PO taken care of.Is there any way to figure out the age of the engine based on the serial number? I have an Operating/Maintenance manual for the engine, along with an aftermarket service manual of somewhat dubious quality. Yanmar doesn’t appear to put the parts manual on line for easy access. Does anyone know where I can find a PDF version of a parts manual? Or a real Yanmar service manual?The maintenance manual shows a cooling system zinc in the back of the engine, and calls for replacement every 250 hours. I found a part number of 27210-200300 on the Mack Boring site, and that looks like a Yanmar part number. Does anyone know if it is correct? And I seem to recall conversation about there being two zincs on the Yanmar marine engines. Is there another zinc that should be replaced?An oil and filter change is high on the maintenance list. The Yanmar manual calls for straight 30 or 40 weight oil. I’ve only ever used Rotella 15-40 in diesel engines. Is there something about the engine that makes a single viscosity oil essential or preferable to a multi-grade oil? Maybe the small (only 2 liter) oil capacity?Rick BrassImzadi CC 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1Washington, NC___
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Re: Stus-List Fuel

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Not sure what the article Rob was reading was about, but I was in the merchant 
navy (British) when I first left school, and we burned what was (...and still 
is) called bunker fuel, in our large marine diesels. It was thicker and 
dirtier, if I remember correctly, than the diesel you buy at gas stations.
Maybe that is what the article was referring to.

sam :-)
CC 26  Liquorice
Ghost Lake  Alberta


On 2014-12-09, at 10:12 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Here we had a product called marine gas oil or various other names that was 
 not diesel but could be used in diesel engines.  There was a price savings.
 However, some found it more susceptible to algae growth.  Our Corps patrol 
 boat developed a serious problem with algae and we stopped using it.  My 
 understanding was that the CG here stopped as well.
 I go to a station where I see a lot of trucks and of course use a conditioner.
 I especially use a sulfur conditioner since my engine was built before the 
 new low sulfur rules.  Can't remember what it is right now.
 Ron
 Wild Cheri
 CC 30-1 
 STL
 
 
 On Tue, 12/9/14, Robert Abbott via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Subject: Stus-List Fuel
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Tuesday, December 9, 2014, 8:51 AM
 
 I was reading an article
 that made reference to 'marine diesel fuel' 
 versus 'diesel fuel' .  The article
 did not go into detail as to whether 
 or not
 there is actually a difference between the two.  I always
 thought 
 that a 'diesel engine'
 whether marine or otherwise burned the same fuel
 
 Was this simply the
 'writer's interpretation' in that diesel used
 for 
 marine purposes is somehow different
 from diesel used for say, diesel 
 powered
 automobiles?
 
 This is
 probably a stupid question and if so, tell me.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 CC 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Navigation

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎There's nothing to this GPS navigation :Sail in the white ; Anchor in the blue ; Drink in the brown!How difficult can it be?   sam :-) From: Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: Saturday, December 6, 2014 9:00 PMTo: Rick BrassReply To: Dennis C.Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List NavigationActually, a front coming through tonight is dropping the the temp dramatically. :)As for the navigation thread, we were motoring a narrow section of the ICW before sunup this morning. Although Touché was in the middle of the "ditch", the GPS showed us about 150 yards north in the pine trees.Further in the ICW, the graphical depiction of the channel did not match the markers or our location. That is, the different colored channel was outside the markers. The markers appeared accurate.So, much of the inaccuracies we see are in the GIS data in the maps. I'd bet that if I'd plotted the location from the GPS position data on a paper chart, I'd have been in the channel and not in the woods.Gas wells in Mobile Bay were close to the charted positions.My auto steerer is always pretty much dead on because the waypoints I use are all observed. That is, they were set from actual boat position using the "mark" function of the GPS. Some were set several years ago. The fact that the GPS via the auto steerer brings me back to them accurately after several years is verification of the accuracy of the GPS system.Dennis C.Touché 35-1 #83Mandeville, LASent from my iPhoneOn Dec 6, 2014, at 8:58 PM, "Rick Brass" rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote:Hope you are having a great, and warm, weekend, Dennis. It is rainy, gray, and the high was about 60 in NC today. Not a nice day for boating.We have all experienced the sort of GPS errors you mentioned at one time or another. And because we all know that our GPS receiver can calculate out position to an accuracy of 30 feet or so, we tend to think that the charts are wrong. But that might not be the whole truth.I’d bet NOAA had pretty good GPS location numbers on the buoys you “hit”, and is not far off on the position of the seawall. The 10 to 30 foot accuracy our GPS reports is based on things like the number and position of the satellites from which it is getting signals, allowing for things like the accuracy of its internal clock, inaccuracy in the chart datum, and the radio waves that carry the time signals from the satellites getting “bent” by the Earth’s magnetic field. But there is another variable that the GPS can’t allow for.I remember reading, a few years ago, about the GPS system in one of the science magazines aimed at geeks like me (Probably Scientific American or Air and Space, but I can’t recall for sure). Seems the GPS system is a good example of Einstein’s Theory of Relativity. Part of the theory says that when you go faster, time slows down relative to time measured in a location that is moving more slowly.The GPS satellites are traveling at something like 18000MPH faster than we are on the Earth’s surface. So the atomic clocks on the satellites “tick” just a wee bit more slowly than the clock on earth. There is a government facility outside of Omaha where military personnel are tasked with adjusting the clocks on the satellites, by a few microseconds or nanoseconds, several times per day to maintain the accuracy of the time signals relative to the earthbound time. As I recall, if the clocks were not adjusted for 24 hours, the calculated position of a spot on Earth would be off by something like 5 miles.That’s probably more than you wanted to know. But you can probably chalk up all those buoys the chartplotter boat ran into to Albert.Oh, and another bit of Einstein trivia: He issued the original patents for the recipe for Tolberone Chocolate, and the shape of the candy. Which is not boating related, unless your Admiral likes really good chocolate. Rick BrassWashington, NCFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-ListSent: Monday, December 01, 2014 8:48 AMTo: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.comSubject: Re: Stus-List NavigationI was motoring up a harbor looking at a nice Raymarine system showing the boat going through a sea wall 200 feet west of our actual position.Yesterday while motoring in the ICW channel in Santa Rosa Sound near Navarre, FL, the chartplotter boat took out several of the buoys on the right side of the channel.Dennis C.Touché 35-1 #83Mandeville, LACurrently on the hook at30 23.054N 86 51.884WSent from my 

Re: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I’ve got iNavX and iSailor on my iPad.

I prefer iNavX.


Just got back from 10 days in the BVI’s on a 52ft Benneteau.

Great sailing, especially out on the Atlantic side of Virgin Gorda where the 
water drops off to a mile deep - very rough!


iNavX worked perfectly the whole trip.

I suspect most of the maps are based on 200 year old soundings by the British 
and Dutch - but we didn’t hit anything.





sam :-)






From: CnC
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎December‎ ‎01‎, ‎2014 ‎12‎:‎21‎ ‎PM
To: Della Barba, Joe, CnC





InavX (navionics charts) is still king as far as anything I've seen.




John



Sent from my iPad


On Dec 1, 2014, at 2:12 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:






I like the Navionics app I have on my iPhone.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fred Hazzard 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 2:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List smart phone navigation programs

 



What to listers like for navigation programs/charting for smart phones.


 


I have a Droid mini.


 


Fred Hazzard


S/V Fury


CC 44


Portland, Or


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Re: Stus-List BVI in November.

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎I've been going to the BVI’s in November for the last 6 years- I’m going on the 17th. - It rains most days for 5 mins ; winds are 15 - 20 knots guaranteed; 30 deg C during the day ; 29 at night!I've never had a day when I've not sailed - where else can you say that?   sam :-) From: Joel Aronson via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, November 4, 2014 10:19 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Joel AronsonSubject: Stus-List BVI in November.we are thinking of doing a charter next November. I'm concerned about it being the rainiest month and whether the trade winds will have filled in. Anyone been there that time of year? Where else would you go in November?Joel35/3-- Joel 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List BVI in November.

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

I go with Conch Charters in Fort Bert Marina, Road Town.


They take the boats from Sunsail and Moorings when they are 5 years old, so the 
boats are older and a bit more used. But I’ve never had any problems.


Last year we chartered a 52 ft Jeanneau (brand new - we were the first to 
charter it) from SunSail. Cost us over $9k US  for 7 days.

On the 17th of this month we have a 51 ft Benneteau with Conch for $3,690 US - 
pay for 7 days get 9 days.


My trips are all guys - sailing and drinking (We don’t drink during the day!)

So I guess you could say we aren’t as picky as we might be if we were taking 
our wives.

However, we are anal about sail trim and we don’t like being overtaken, the 
Conch boats work out fine.

Their service is great; everything on the boats work.

The SunSail boat was a bit shinier and the sails were in a bit better 
shape….but $5k buys a lot of rum!!!






sam :-)






From: Robert Mazza
Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎November‎ ‎04‎, ‎2014 ‎11‎:‎55‎ ‎AM
To: Sam Salter, CnC
Cc: Joel Aronson





Sam,

Which charter company would you recommend? I may be going in February. 

Rob

On Nov 4, 2014 1:20 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



‎I've been going to the BVI’s in November for the last 6 years- I’m going on 
the 17th.  - It rains most days for 5 mins ; winds are 15 - 20 knots 
guaranteed; 30 deg C during the day ; 29 at night! 

I've never had a day when I've not sailed - where else can you say that? 




sam :-)



From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, November 4, 2014 10:19 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: Joel Aronson

Subject: Stus-List BVI in November.




we are thinking of doing a charter next November. I'm concerned about it being 
the rainiest month and whether the trade winds will have filled in.  Anyone 
been there that time of year?  Where else would you go in November?



Joel

35/3


-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎These are the same guys that just had a conversion about still using 30 or 40 year old sails and when they change them (IF) will go to Bacon’s for a 20 year old sail.Sailors are cheap!!!  sam :-) From: Robert Abbott via CnC-ListSent: Friday, October 24, 2014 6:49 PMTo: Fred Hazzard; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Robert AbbottSubject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting
  

  
  
Fred
  
  The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a
  dealhe was trying to drum up business by demonstrating how
  quick and effective his process was. The regular price for our
  CC 32 was about $1,600 CDN.we got it done for half that
  total cost.a deal we could not refuse.
  
  There were multiple layers of Interlux paints plus some recent VC
  17 over 22 years by the original owner. The dry ice blasting
  removed everything down to the white gelcoat in less than 5 hours
  including the keel and rudder. The antifouling paint that came
  offf the bottom fell to the ground like ground pepper. When he
  finished, I had a shop vacuum and had it cleaned up in about 15
  minutes.
  
  The last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat was 1991.a
  friend's CC 33 MKII that were reading for a Marblehead race.
  That was last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat and it will
  remain the last time I ever scrap/sand anti fouling paint from a
  boat.
  
  Unfortunately for the contractor, his dry ice blasting process did
  not impress many club members...he got a few orders but I have not
  seen him back at the club. 
  
  I do not understand why boat owners choose to pay similar prices
  or more to have their bottoms cleaned with all the hazards
  associated with scrapping/sanding when soda blasting and dry ice
  blasting is perfectly safe, quick and extremely effective. 
  
  I would choose dry ice blasting over soda blasting because you
  don't have the mess left behind with soda blasting and it can be
  cheaper. Check this video as an example:
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1V1RAVXFQg
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  CC 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  
  
  
  On 2014/10/24 12:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:


  
I am looking
  for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers
  of bottom paint.


I am also
  interested to find out what is the cost per foot being
  charged.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
CC 44
Portland, Or
  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List ice or soda blasting

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎You should read some of the British sail mags.You'd be amazed what British sailors can do with sticky tape and binder twine - or maybe you wouldn't!   sam :-) From: Robert Abbott via CnC-ListSent: Friday, October 24, 2014 6:49 PMTo: Fred Hazzard; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: Robert AbbottSubject: Stus-List ice or soda blasting
  

  
  
Fred
  
  The contractor that 'dry ice blast' our boat in 2006 gave us a
  dealhe was trying to drum up business by demonstrating how
  quick and effective his process was. The regular price for our
  CC 32 was about $1,600 CDN.we got it done for half that
  total cost.a deal we could not refuse.
  
  There were multiple layers of Interlux paints plus some recent VC
  17 over 22 years by the original owner. The dry ice blasting
  removed everything down to the white gelcoat in less than 5 hours
  including the keel and rudder. The antifouling paint that came
  offf the bottom fell to the ground like ground pepper. When he
  finished, I had a shop vacuum and had it cleaned up in about 15
  minutes.
  
  The last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat was 1991.a
  friend's CC 33 MKII that were reading for a Marblehead race.
  That was last time I scrapped the bottom of a boat and it will
  remain the last time I ever scrap/sand anti fouling paint from a
  boat.
  
  Unfortunately for the contractor, his dry ice blasting process did
  not impress many club members...he got a few orders but I have not
  seen him back at the club. 
  
  I do not understand why boat owners choose to pay similar prices
  or more to have their bottoms cleaned with all the hazards
  associated with scrapping/sanding when soda blasting and dry ice
  blasting is perfectly safe, quick and extremely effective. 
  
  I would choose dry ice blasting over soda blasting because you
  don't have the mess left behind with soda blasting and it can be
  cheaper. Check this video as an example:
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1V1RAVXFQg
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  CC 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  
  
  
  On 2014/10/24 12:42 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:


  
I am looking
  for opinions on ice or soda blasting to remove multiple layers
  of bottom paint.


I am also
  interested to find out what is the cost per foot being
  charged.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
CC 44
Portland, Or
  
  
  
  
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