Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
David, Thank you sir! I'll be in touch by phone soon. No Bermuda plans for Corsair this year? Best, Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 13, 2016 11:46 AM To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma Chuck...I may have a spare fitting with a cap you can have. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) _ To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 11:33:34 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net <mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net> I finally was able to remove the waste deck fitting cap by drilling the holes for the deck fitting tool deeper so that the tool would sit flush on the deck fitting with the pins completely engaged in the holes. Using a vice grip as an extension on the spanner, I was able to free up the cap. Does anyone know who was the source of the deck fittings for 1983 era Rhode Island built boats? I may want to have a spare cap for this deck fill since when I drilled the holes deeper, there isn't much wall thickness remaining where the tool goes into the cap. The fitting and cap are chrome over bronze and the cap is nominally 2 3/8" diameter. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick... Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com> email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent. Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to replace it anyway. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Suggestions needed: I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been "sitting" for a number of years. I've painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates. So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. Well the one thing that wasn't checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I've tried several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they're only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but here's where the dilemma begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission? I've generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what's in the tank. Has anyone come up with a "super tool" that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? I also haven't found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place? While I don't think the tank is anywhere near full, I'd prefer not to spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, I'm open to suggestions. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what w
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Chuck...I may have a spare fitting with a cap you can have. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 11:33:34 -0400 Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: csgilchr...@comcast.net I finally was able to remove the waste deck fitting cap by drilling the holes for the deck fitting tool deeper so that the tool would sit flush on the deck fitting with the pins completely engaged in the holes. Using a vice grip as an extension on the spanner, I was able to free up the cap.Does anyone know who was the source of the deck fittings for 1983 era Rhode Island built boats? I may want to have a spare cap for this deck fill since when I drilled the holes deeper, there isn’t much wall thickness remaining where the tool goes into the cap.The fitting and cap are chrome over bronze and the cap is nominally 2 3/8” diameter.Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MAFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Boyer Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick... Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.com On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent.Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to replace it anyway.AndyC&C 40Peregrine On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:Suggestions needed:I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates. So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place?While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! Virus-free
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
I finally was able to remove the waste deck fitting cap by drilling the holes for the deck fitting tool deeper so that the tool would sit flush on the deck fitting with the pins completely engaged in the holes. Using a vice grip as an extension on the spanner, I was able to free up the cap. Does anyone know who was the source of the deck fittings for 1983 era Rhode Island built boats? I may want to have a spare cap for this deck fill since when I drilled the holes deeper, there isn’t much wall thickness remaining where the tool goes into the cap. The fitting and cap are chrome over bronze and the cap is nominally 2 3/8” diameter. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 12:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Robert Boyer Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick... Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com> email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent. Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to replace it anyway. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Suggestions needed: I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates. So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place? While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
I have the units that take a winch handle and like them. They are made of aluminum and have O-rings. I put a light coating of petroleum jelly on the threads and O-rings to prevent seizing. Has anyone found a source for spare caps? I keep a 1-1/2” PVC pipe plug as an emergency spare. Regards, Ron Ron Ricci S/V Patriot C&C 37+ Bristol, RI <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael Brown via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 6:31 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to the edge including into the threads at a location that is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer. At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the key? Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Love the ones that take winch handles - but I haven't dropped a handle in the drink yet. Joel On Monday, June 6, 2016, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote: > As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large > enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to > the edge including into the threads at a location that > is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original > holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer. > > At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the > group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the > key? > > Michael Brown > Windburn > C&C 30-1 > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
At some point you may apply so much torque that you shear off the existing screws holding the fitting to the deck. Beware! Jake Jake Brodersen C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress" Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 13:43 To: CNC CNC Cc: David Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma FWIW: Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster? Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose? Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large lever to persuade it off? Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the whole dang thing out. Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole hose. Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!). Good luck. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
As a last resort, drill a hole through the center large enough to take a hacksaw or jigsaw blade. Cut out to the edge including into the threads at a location that is just a bit counterclockwise from one of the original holes. Use a punch at a low angle and hammer. At some point I will replace my fittings, what does the group think of the units that use a winch handle vs the key? Michael Brown Windburn C&C 30-1 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Sea Foam Deep Creep...good stuff! Harry Sent from my iPhone 7 beta > On Jun 6, 2016, at 13:59, John Pennie via CnC-List > wrote: > > WD40? ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
WD40? > On Jun 6, 2016, at 1:43 PM, David via CnC-List wrote: > > FWIW: > > Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster? > > Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose? > > Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large > lever to persuade it off? > > Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the > whole dang thing out. Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole > hose. Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!). > > Good luck. > > David F. Risch > 1981 40-2 > (401) 419-4650 (cell) > > > Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:15:20 -0400 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma > From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > CC: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> > > Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick... > > Bob Boyer > s/v Rainy Days > C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) > Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore) > blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com <http://dainyrays.blogspot.com/> > email: dainyr...@icloud.com <mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> > > On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > > Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the > holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate > open. > I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from > the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent. > Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to > replace it anyway. > > Andy > C&C 40 > Peregrine > > On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > Suggestions needed: > I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a > number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything > functional and replaced items that needed updates. > So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a > good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. > Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste > fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded > itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several deck keys and > tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an > application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped > mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough > purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as > they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? > > My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma > begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the > build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat > up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into > submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free > corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both > appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the > corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a “super > tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? > I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have > no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is > simply screwed in place? > While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend > the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is > out there, I’m open to suggestions. > Chuck Gilchrest > Half Magic > 1983 LF 35 > Padanaram, MA > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! > > > > > -- > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett Ave > Newport, RI > USA 02840 > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > <http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/> > phone +401 965 5260 > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donatin
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
FWIW: Perhaps one more try with PB Blaster? Unscrew fitting and twist the fitting off of the hose? Tap into the cap holes and screw in some substantial bolts...use a large lever to persuade it off? Worse case unscrew the fitting, cut hose where you can see it and pull the whole dang thing out. Of course that necessitates you replacing the whole hose. Not a bad thing (especially when I am not the one doing it!). Good luck. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:15:20 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com CC: dainyr...@icloud.com Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick... Bob Boyers/v Rainy DaysC&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)blog: dainyrays.blogspot.comemail: dainyr...@icloud.com On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote: Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent. Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to replace it anyway. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Suggestions needed:I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates. So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat.Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills?I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place?While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions.Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983 LF 35Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! Virus-free. www.avast.com ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Also, a good spanner wrench (and a hammer) may do the trick... Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com email: dainyr...@icloud.com > On Jun 6, 2016, at 11:06 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List > wrote: > > Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the > holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate > open. > I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from > the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent. > Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to > replace it anyway. > > Andy > C&C 40 > Peregrine > >> On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Suggestions needed: >> >> I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a >> number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything >> functional and replaced items that needed updates. >> >> So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a >> good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. >> >> Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste >> fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has >> corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several >> deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the >> tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic >> tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get >> enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting >> lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? >> >> >> >> My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma >> begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the >> build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the >> boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into >> submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free >> corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both >> appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to >> the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a >> “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? >> >> I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have >> no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is >> simply screwed in place? >> >> While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend >> the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help >> is out there, I’m open to suggestions. >> >> Chuck Gilchrest >> >> Half Magic >> >> 1983 LF 35 >> >> Padanaram, MA >> >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like >> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions >> are greatly appreciated! > > > > -- > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett Ave > Newport, RI > USA 02840 > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > phone +401 965 5260 > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
On my Landfall 38, most of the fill (and the pump out) connections were simply screwed into the outer skin and butyl tape was used between the fitting and the deck. The trouble with just removing the fitting is that the hose is probably still attached (this is another challenging problem--getting the hose off the fitting). There is a rubber o-ring in the lid too. Heat may make this mess worse. You may have a lister help you find the underside of the fitting and just remove it and replace it. (Mine is in a locker by my navigation station.) Bob Bob Boyer s/v Rainy Days C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore) blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com email: dainyr...@icloud.com > On Jun 6, 2016, at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List > wrote: > > Suggestions needed: > I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a > number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything > functional and replaced items that needed updates. > So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a > good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. > Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste > fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded > itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several deck keys and > tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an > application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped > mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough > purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as > they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? > > My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma > begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the > build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat > up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into > submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free > corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both > appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the > corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a “super > tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? > I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have > no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is > simply screwed in place? > While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend > the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is > out there, I’m open to suggestions. > Chuck Gilchrest > Half Magic > 1983 LF 35 > Padanaram, MA > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
If it's that corroded I would just pull it and replace it (or work on reconditioning it once you have it out). Pulling the deck fills was a recommended survey item on my boat anyway because they tend to leak after 30+ years. They're in cored sections of the deck, so leaking deck fills isn't good. The deck fill can be removed pretty easily if you can access the underside. There must be some way for you to get at the hose from underneath and pull it off. Then you just have to remove the 3 screws or thrubolts on the fill. (most of my deck fills were screwed into the deck rather than thrubolted). Then when you remove it you can inspect the coring, reseal it (butyl tape), and heat it all you want to get the cap free. I don't think heat has any risk of exploding methane though. If your holding tank's air vent hose isn't clogged, most gases would go out that way. Even if that's clogged, I'm assuming you haven't been using it a ton in the last week? Older gases in the tank would've dissipated over time. -Patrick 1984 C&C LF38 On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 8:19 AM, wrote: > From: Chuck Gilchrest > To: > Cc: > Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 10:57:17 -0400 > Subject: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma > > Suggestions needed: > > I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a > number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything > functional and replaced items that needed updates. > > So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a > good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. > > Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste > fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has > corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several > deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the > tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic > tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get > enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting > lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? > > > > My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma > begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the > build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the > boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into > submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free > corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both > appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to > the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a > “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? > > I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I > have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it > is simply screwed in place? > > While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to > spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever > help is out there, I’m open to suggestions. > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1983 LF 35 > > Padanaram, MA > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Chuck: You can try a homemade solution of 50%-50% power steering fluid and acetone..apply with an eye dropper or dab carefully with a Q-tip..careful not to get the solution on the deck as the acetone will be destructive. I have successfully used this solution in the home, on my car and the boat to free up seized parts. Rob Abbott AZURA C&C 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2016-06-06 11:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Suggestions needed: I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates. So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place? While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Thank you Joel, My deck fitting is on the opposite side of the boat from the hanging locker. On the main salon side, it is blocked off by a bulkhead that supports the chainplates and MAY be accessible behind the cabinetry in the head. I haven’t started ripping into the interior to explore that option as yet. FYI, my boat has the “traditional” layout for the Landfall 35, not the “couple’s cruiser” layout with the head and galley amidships on port and starboard respectively. My deck fitting is just forward of the starboard chainplates (which also tend to get in the way of access with a large tool!). Chuck From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 6, 2016 11:02 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma Chuck, Had the same problem, but I was able to find the hose/deck fitting in the hanging locker, disconnect the hose and replace the deck fitting. I tried drilling, beating, cursing, but did not try a torch. Good luck! Joel On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Suggestions needed: I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything functional and replaced items that needed updates. So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it is simply screwed in place? While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever help is out there, I’m open to suggestions. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Chuck, Had the same problem, but I was able to find the hose/deck fitting in the hanging locker, disconnect the hose and replace the deck fitting. I tried drilling, beating, cursing, but did not try a torch. Good luck! Joel On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Suggestions needed: > > I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a > number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything > functional and replaced items that needed updates. > > So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a > good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. > > Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste > fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has > corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several > deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the > tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic > tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get > enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting > lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? > > > > My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma > begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the > build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the > boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into > submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free > corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both > appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to > the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a > “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? > > I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I > have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it > is simply screwed in place? > > While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to > spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever > help is out there, I’m open to suggestions. > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1983 LF 35 > > Padanaram, MA > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Deck Waste fitting dilemma
Chuck, I've had good luck using a couple of punches the right size to fit the holes and then using a large screwdriver between them to lever the plate open. I have found oxygenating tablets work very well to eliminate the smell from the tank. I would think any methane would be eliminated through the vent. Can you follow the hose to find the deck plate? It sounds like it's time to replace it anyway. Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Mon, Jun 6, 2016 at 10:57 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Suggestions needed: > > I purchased the new to me C&C Landfall 35 that had been “sitting” for a > number of years. I’ve painstakingly gone through systems to get everything > functional and replaced items that needed updates. > > So, after several outings on the boat, it was determined that it may be a > good idea to pump out the holding tank to reduce a growing odor in the boat. > > Well the one thing that wasn’t checked in my systems review was the waste > fitting at the deck which our harbormaster and I have determined has > corroded itself closed over the years of inactivity. I’ve tried several > deck keys and tools (also using a vise grip to serve as an extension to the > tool), an application of liquid wrench, and finally a punch with a plastic > tipped mallet to try and free the deck fitting. No luck. I just can get > enough purchase on the tips of the tool into the holes in the deck fitting > lid as they’re only several mm deep. Should I drill the holes deeper? > > > > My next approach is going to involve heat, but here’s where the dilemma > begins- Is adding heat to the deck fitting something that may ignite the > build-up of methane inside the tank? Can I possibly blow myself and the > boat up using a butane torch to heat the fitting before beating it into > submission? I’ve generally had good luck with applying heat to free > corrosion caused by dissimilar metals, but the fill cap and flange both > appear to be chromed bronze and I suspect the bonding has occurred due to > the corrosive nature of what’s in the tank. Has anyone come up with a > “super tool” that can unscrew the most stubborn deck fills? > > I also haven’t found below deck access to the deck fitting flange, so I > have no idea if it is through bolted to the deck with nuts below, or if it > is simply screwed in place? > > While I don’t think the tank is anywhere near full, I’d prefer not to > spend the entire summer on a boat that smells like a dog kennel so whatever > help is out there, I’m open to suggestions. > > Chuck Gilchrest > > Half Magic > > 1983 LF 35 > > Padanaram, MA > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!