Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Something in the oven? You are pregnant? Congrats! :-) Not attacking - who has energy (or motivation) for that? You seemed to be saying that maintenance is important, and I'm in full agreement with that. Just wanted to point out the false hope of relying on an electric bilge pump, with some numbers. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2014-11-04 12:00 AM, Wally Bryant wrote: Well, yes, I have been gone for quite some time. It works for me. best regardsmifl (darn these foreign keyboards)\ wAL (vbg) PS. Please don't attack me right now, I have something in the oven. And actually, if I read your message correctly, you are supporting my assertion. you wrote: Wal, if you are gone any amount of time when they fail you have lost the boat anyway - any half decently sized bilge pump will kill the battery. Let's assume a Whale 1000 gallon / hr pump, this will pull 4 amps. The 1000 gallons/hr rating is ideal, like mileage ratings on cars, so in real life assuming 5 feet of head you will get maybe half that. A 1 hose off a fitting at 2 feet below waterline will flood at 12.7 gpm = 762 gallons per hour. Your pump won't keep up with that. So back to the Defender site, what's a 2000 gph pump draw? The Rule pump draws 8.4 amps. So now your boat is safe, at a cost of 8.4 amp hours - how many days does that keep your boat afloat? What if it is a seacock that fails (higher flooding rate), or a bigger fitting? (technical reference: Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical Manual 3rd edition, flooding rates p 581) How many on here have a 2000 gph automatic bilge pumps? I consider automatic bilge pumps to be suitable for nuisance flooding (e.g. rain down the mast), and one would buy me a bit of time in a crisis, but to rely on one for long term unattended protection is unrealistic. Far better to check and eliminate the risks you mention. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. Joel On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from McMaster-Carr. I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull. This was an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now. However, I can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's hose clamped to the bracket. That's turned out to be a good idea. http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm Wal Tom wrote: I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water = electrolysis at its best. And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. Joel On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from McMaster-Carr. I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull. This was an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now. However, I can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's hose clamped to the bracket. That's turned out to be a good idea. http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm Wal Tom wrote: I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties it out. Am I crazy? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar Horvatic via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:13 AM To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Wally Bryant' Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water = electrolysis at its best. And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. Joel On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from McMaster-Carr. I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull. This was an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now. However, I can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's hose clamped to the bracket. That's turned out to be a good idea. http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm Wal Tom wrote: I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Not necessarily. It all depends on what your intended use is and your level of comfort. For instance, I once left Sundowner un-attended in Puerto Rico at anchor. What was initially intended to be few weeks un-attended, turned out to be 18 months due to unplanned divorce and my son’s custody battle here in Rhode Island. Granted, I went to check on things every 6 months for 1 week at the time. But even at that, I consider myself very lucky that Sundowner was still there 18 months later and after 2 hurricanes went through the anchorage. Bilge pumps and their wiring are deeply etched into my brain. I spent many sleepless nights thinking about them and I will forever look at them from a different point of view. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com] Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:20 AM To: 'Petar Horvatic'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: RE: Stus-List Metallurgy I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties it out. Am I crazy? From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar Horvatic via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 11:13 AM To: 'Joel Aronson'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com; 'Wally Bryant' Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy Aluminum plate + stainless fasteners + bilge water = electrolysis at its best. And add to that a very crappy, and inadequate float switch and rule pump lead wires (if you happen to have those), and it gets even more fun. Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 CC 38MkII Newport, RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 10:20 AM To: Wally Bryant; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy My switch is held to a piece of VPC pipe using zip ties. Hard part was figuring out how far up to drill thr holes for the ties. Joel On Sunday, November 2, 2014, Wally Bryant via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from McMaster-Carr. I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull. This was an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now. However, I can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's hose clamped to the bracket. That's turned out to be a good idea. http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm Wal Tom wrote: I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Not crazy, but how old are your through hulls, sea cocks and hoses? Are your hoses held up with seizing wire so if the sink connections crack the hose won't fall down below the waterline? Do you have any red brass nipples connecting sea cocks to bronze T's to share hose fittings? That's the stuff I worry about, because I might be gone if they fail. Speaking of boats sinking at the dock, we had another one here the other day. The locals were trying to raise it with empty 55 gallon drums -- except the drums weren't empty. The smell of solvent was overwhelming from 100 yards away, and I looked over to see them dumping the remaining contents into the marina water. Great. I walked over to complain, but they couldn't speak English and insisted it was just aqua. The drums were covered with warnings from 'flammable' to 'do not inhale fumes.' Funny how they were doing it on a national holiday, when the port captain was gone and the marina security was on a skeleton staff. Wal you wrote: I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties it out. Am I crazy? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy/bilge pump
You are very lucky. You probably want a bilge pump if your boat has an inboard engine with packing gland on the shaft. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com, CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, November 3, 2014 11:19:49 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Metallurgy I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties it out. Am I crazy? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Wal, if you are gone any amount of time when they fail you have lost the boat anyway - any half decently sized bilge pump will kill the battery. Let's assume a Whale 1000 gallon / hr pump, this will pull 4 amps. The 1000 gallons/hr rating is ideal, like mileage ratings on cars, so in real life assuming 5 feet of head you will get maybe half that. A 1 hose off a fitting at 2 feet below waterline will flood at 12.7 gpm = 762 gallons per hour. Your pump won't keep up with that. So back to the Defender site, what's a 2000 gph pump draw? The Rule pump draws 8.4 amps. So now your boat is safe, at a cost of 8.4 amp hours - how many days does that keep your boat afloat? What if it is a seacock that fails (higher flooding rate), or a bigger fitting? (technical reference: Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical Manual 3rd edition, flooding rates p 581) How many on here have a 2000 gph automatic bilge pumps? I consider automatic bilge pumps to be suitable for nuisance flooding (e.g. rain down the mast), and one would buy me a bit of time in a crisis, but to rely on one for long term unattended protection is unrealistic. Far better to check and eliminate the risks you mention. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2014-11-03 1:00 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote: Not crazy, but how old are your through hulls, sea cocks and hoses? Are your hoses held up with seizing wire so if the sink connections crack the hose won't fall down below the waterline? Do you have any red brass nipples connecting sea cocks to bronze T's to share hose fittings? That's the stuff I worry about, because I might be gone if they fail. Speaking of boats sinking at the dock, we had another one here the other day. The locals were trying to raise it with empty 55 gallon drums -- except the drums weren't empty. The smell of solvent was overwhelming from 100 yards away, and I looked over to see them dumping the remaining contents into the marina water. Great. I walked over to complain, but they couldn't speak English and insisted it was just aqua. The drums were covered with warnings from 'flammable' to 'do not inhale fumes.' Funny how they were doing it on a national holiday, when the port captain was gone and the marina security was on a skeleton staff. Wal you wrote: I don’t have an electric automatic bilge pump. I just have my Whale gusher. I have never found much water in the boat even after extended time on the mooring. Usually just a short turn (maybe 10 pumps) at the pump handle empties it out. Am I crazy? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Well, yes, I have been gone for quite some time. It works for me. best regardsmifl (darn these foreign keyboards)\ wAL (vbg) PS. Please don't attack me right now, I have something in the oven. And actually, if I read your message correctly, you are supporting my assertion. you wrote: Wal, if you are gone any amount of time when they fail you have lost the boat anyway - any half decently sized bilge pump will kill the battery. Let's assume a Whale 1000 gallon / hr pump, this will pull 4 amps. The 1000 gallons/hr rating is ideal, like mileage ratings on cars, so in real life assuming 5 feet of head you will get maybe half that. A 1 hose off a fitting at 2 feet below waterline will flood at 12.7 gpm = 762 gallons per hour. Your pump won't keep up with that. So back to the Defender site, what's a 2000 gph pump draw? The Rule pump draws 8.4 amps. So now your boat is safe, at a cost of 8.4 amp hours - how many days does that keep your boat afloat? What if it is a seacock that fails (higher flooding rate), or a bigger fitting? (technical reference: Calder, Boatowner's Mechanical And Electrical Manual 3rd edition, flooding rates p 581) How many on here have a 2000 gph automatic bilge pumps? I consider automatic bilge pumps to be suitable for nuisance flooding (e.g. rain down the mast), and one would buy me a bit of time in a crisis, but to rely on one for long term unattended protection is unrealistic. Far better to check and eliminate the risks you mention. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Tom - I did something similar, but made it out of prefab fiberglass from McMaster-Carr. I used little fiberglass blocks epoxied to the hull. This was an early project (14 years ago... yikes!) and I'd do it better now. However, I can replace the little bilge pump without pulling everything out, since it's hose clamped to the bracket. That's turned out to be a good idea. http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/bilgepmp/bilgepmp.htm Wal Tom wrote: I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Yes, in salt water. Not so much in fresh water. You can use insulating washers with shoulders, if you can find them, or something else to insulate the stainless from the aluminum. It doesn't matter that both parts (stainless and aluminum) are in the water if there is no electrical connection between them. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII - Original Message - From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:22 PM Subject: Stus-List Metallurgy I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Coat the screws w Lanacote. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2014 2:22:54 PM Subject: Stus-List Metallurgy I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Metallurgy
Tom, I have both my switch and pump mounted to a stainless steel plate. It's L shaped and secured with two screws at the top of the bilge. It's easy to remove. No more stretching to reach a couple of screws in the deep bilge on the 35-3. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:23 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Metallurgy I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
