Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

if you keep the paper on the acrylic, the suction will be lost quite fast.

Leslie.
 

On Tue, 2/17/15, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795
 To: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com, 
rph2m...@yahoo.com
 Date: Tuesday, February 17, 2015, 9:08 PM
 
 When I do
 this project I plan on using a glass suction cup or likely
 two from the inside and tie them off somewhere under load.
 In my opinion using these in tension while provide a much
 more even and stronger load across the portlights, keeping
 them in place while they cure. I prefer to keep my stantions
 for what they were intended, keeping the lifelines in place
 for an emergency.
 This: http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/FAST-CAP-Suction-Cup-Lifter-3KNF1
 or similar product as was already mentioned.
 
 On
 Tue, Feb 17, 2015, 8:40 PM Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 Robert,
 
 Thanks for further input. My plan is to follow the same
 idea. I like your keyhole idea to locate the window
 effectively. 
 
 One question - did you tape the window in place and then add
 the 795 into the gap? Or did you put some 795 on the back of
 the acrylic (or the cabin side)?  I feel like I'd like
 to get more 795 in begins the acrylic - but maybe the point
 is that the tape provides the holding power and the 795 is
 just waterproofing sealant. 
 
 
 
 Mark
 
 On February
 17, 2015 2:22:57 PM AST, "Robert H. via CnC-List"
 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I am
 writing to update on my portlight replacement
 project.
 The
 installation went perfectly and the portlight looks
 great.
 Applying a few
 wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with removable,
 double-sided poster tape was a very effective way to affix
 the portlight in proper alignment. It slid into position
 like a puzzle piece, which is good because you only get one
 crack at it with the VHB tape.
 I also have a very good feeling
 about the VHB / DC 795 method - though time will be the
 ultimate judge. I am comforted by the thought that the tape
 and DC 795 will allow the portlight to expand and contract
 with heat and cold at a different rate that the cabin top
 without breaking the bond (in theory,
 anyway).
 For those
 that are thinking of using the same technique, here’s one
 final tip and a few comments.
 The tip: I had good success
 using a couple of telescoping hiking poles to apply
 pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the
 lifelines while the VHB tape set up. I also used a heat gun
 to warm up the cabin top before applying the
 portlight.
 I have no
 leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m going
 to wait until the weather warms up before I start on them. I
 learned that the initial bond of the VHB tape is dependent
 on both the application of continuous pressure and the
 ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet does a better job of
 explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid bond,
 it will hold well even in cold conditions, but you will be
 doing yourself a favour if you wait for warmer
 conditions.
 
 Sent from Windows Mail
 From: RPH via
 CnC-List
 Sent: ‎Sunday‎,
 ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 I have been reading
 the recent posts about windows and I thought that some might
 be interested to hear of my experience replacing the
 portlights on
 my 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat
 part of the project yesterday and the work is not yet
 complete. 
 In late
 fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to
 1/2 inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw
 with a guide rail system and a router. I then took my
 templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they made
 the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The
 edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I
 remember correctly). They turned out to be very good
 reproductions of the factory portlights. 
 To ready myself for the project, I
 also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 1/2" x
 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose
 white over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black
 High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust
 paint. 
 Yesterday, I
 attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the
 aft, starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite
 off more than I could chew). I knew that the factory
 portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive and
 that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel
 Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using
 a flexible scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin
 top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several
 small putty knives which easily removed the
 portlight. 
 What the
 putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the
 methacrylate adhesive. I tried several different techniques
 to remove the adhesive but ultimately decided that the
 better course wo

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[robert via CnC-List]

Kevin:
I intended using suction cups to hold my new windows in place, however, 
before I actually did the job, I experimented with the suction cups on 
the new windows and found they did not hold on for very long.  I used 
Sika 295 |||UV as the adhesive and therefore left the 'paper' on 
the inside of the new window to keep the Sika off.  The paper interfered 
with the holding capacity of the suction cups and I had to go to plan B.


Plan B involved placing 2" X 4"'s from the toerail to the outside of the 
new windows with approx. 10 to 15 pounds of weight on each piece of 
wood..I think I used three pieces of wood on each of the front 
(longer) windows and two on the back (shorter) ones.


I suggest you test the suction cups before you attempt the job.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-02-18 1:08 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List wrote:


When I do this project I plan on using a glass suction cup or likely 
two from the inside and tie them off somewhere under load. In my 
opinion using these in tension while provide a much more even and 
stronger load across the portlights, keeping them in place while they 
cure. I prefer to keep my stantions for what they were intended, 
keeping the lifelines in place for an emergency.


This: 
http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/FAST-CAP-Suction-Cup-Lifter-3KNF1 
or similar product as was already mentioned.



On Tue, Feb 17, 2015, 8:40 PM Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Robert,
Thanks for further input. My plan is to follow the same idea. I
like your keyhole idea to locate the window effectively.
One question - did you tape the window in place and then add the
795 into the gap? Or did you put some 795 on the back of the
acrylic (or the cabin side)? I feel like I'd like to get more 795
in begins the acrylic - but maybe the point is that the tape
provides the holding power and the 795 is just waterproofing sealant.

Mark

On February 17, 2015 2:22:57 PM AST, "Robert H. via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am writing to update on my portlight replacement project.

The installation went perfectly and the portlight looks great.

Applying a few wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with
removable, double-sided poster tape was a very effective way
to affix the portlight in proper alignment. It slid into
position like a puzzle piece, which is good because you only
get one crack at it with the VHB tape.

I also have a very good feeling about the VHB / DC 795 method
- though time will be the ultimate judge. I am comforted by
the thought that the tape and DC 795 will allow the
portlight to expand and contract with heat and cold at a
different rate that the cabin top without breaking the bond
(in theory, anyway).

For those that are thinking of using the same technique,
here’s one final tip and a few comments.

The tip: I had good success using a couple of telescoping
hiking poles to apply pressure to the portlight by bracing
them against the lifelines while the VHB tape set up. I also
used a heat gun to warm up the cabin top before applying the
portlight.

I have no leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m
going to wait until the weather warms up before I start on
them. I learned that the initial bond of the VHB tape is
dependent on both the application of continuous pressure and
the ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet does a better job
of explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid bond,
it will hold well even in cold conditions, but you will be
doing yourself a favour if you wait for warmer conditions.

Sent from Windows Mail

*From:* RPH via CnC-List 
*Sent:* ‎Sunday‎, ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I
thought that some might be interested to hear of my experience
replacing the portlights on my 1989 30 MKII. Please note that
I just started the on-boat part of the project yesterday and
the work is not yet complete.

In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I
transfered to 1/2 inch ply. The templates were cut using a
circular saw with a guide rail system and a router. I then
took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they
made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404).
The edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I
remember correctly). They turned out to be very good
reproductions of the factory portlights.

To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

When I do this project I plan on using a glass suction cup or likely two
from the inside and tie them off somewhere under load. In my opinion using
these in tension while provide a much more even and stronger load across
the portlights, keeping them in place while they cure. I prefer to keep my
stantions for what they were intended, keeping the lifelines in place for
an emergency.

This: http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/FAST-CAP-Suction-Cup-Lifter-3KNF1
or similar product as was already mentioned.

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015, 8:40 PM Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Robert,
> Thanks for further input. My plan is to follow the same idea. I like your
> keyhole idea to locate the window effectively.
> One question - did you tape the window in place and then add the 795 into
> the gap? Or did you put some 795 on the back of the acrylic (or the cabin
> side)? I feel like I'd like to get more 795 in begins the acrylic - but
> maybe the point is that the tape provides the holding power and the 795 is
> just waterproofing sealant.
>
> Mark
>
> On February 17, 2015 2:22:57 PM AST, "Robert H. via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I am writing to update on my portlight replacement project.
>>
>> The installation went perfectly and the portlight looks great.
>>
>> Applying a few wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with removable,
>> double-sided poster tape was a very effective way to affix the portlight in
>> proper alignment. It slid into position like a puzzle piece, which is good
>> because you only get one crack at it with the VHB tape.
>>
>> I also have a very good feeling about the VHB / DC 795 method - though
>> time will be the ultimate judge. I am comforted by the thought that the
>> tape and DC 795 will allow the portlight to expand and contract with heat
>> and cold at a different rate that the cabin top without breaking the bond
>> (in theory, anyway).
>>
>> For those that are thinking of using the same technique, here’s one final
>> tip and a few comments.
>>
>> The tip: I had good success using a couple of telescoping hiking poles to
>> apply pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the lifelines while
>> the VHB tape set up. I also used a heat gun to warm up the cabin top before
>> applying the portlight.
>>
>> I have no leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m going to
>> wait until the weather warms up before I start on them. I learned that the
>> initial bond of the VHB tape is dependent on both the application of
>> continuous pressure and the ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet does a
>> better job of explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid bond,
>> it will hold well even in cold conditions, but you will be doing yourself a
>> favour if you wait for warmer conditions.
>>
>> Sent from Windows Mail
>>
>> *From:* RPH via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* ‎Sunday‎, ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that
>> some might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights
>> on my 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the
>> project yesterday and the work is not yet complete.
>>
>> In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2
>> inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail
>> system and a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics
>> manufacturer, and they made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze
>> 2404). The edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I
>> remember correctly). They turned out to be very good reproductions of the
>> factory portlights.
>>
>> To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991
>> Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white
>> over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone
>> Coating exhaust paint.
>>
>> Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft,
>> starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could
>> chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate
>> adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel
>> Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible
>> scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective.
>> In the end, I used several small putty knives which easily removed the
>> portlight.
>>
>> What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate
>> adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but
>> ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m
>> Premium Marine Filler.
>>
>> After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place
>> while my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the
>> protective paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cu

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Robert,
Thanks for further input. My plan is to follow the same idea. I like your 
keyhole idea to locate the window effectively. 
One question - did you tape the window in place and then add the 795 into the 
gap? Or did you put some 795 on the back of the acrylic (or the cabin side)?  I 
feel like I'd like to get more 795 in begins the acrylic - but maybe the point 
is that the tape provides the holding power and the 795 is just waterproofing 
sealant. 

Mark

On February 17, 2015 2:22:57 PM AST, "Robert H. via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
>I am writing to update on my portlight replacement project.
>
>
>The installation went perfectly and the portlight looks great.
>
>
>Applying a few wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with
>removable, double-sided poster tape was a very effective way to affix
>the portlight in proper alignment. It slid into position like a puzzle
>piece, which is good because you only get one crack at it with the VHB
>tape.
>
>
>I also have a very good feeling about the VHB / DC 795 method - though
>time will be the ultimate judge. I am comforted by the thought that the
>tape and DC 795 will allow the portlight to expand and contract with
>heat and cold at a different rate that the cabin top without breaking
>the bond (in theory, anyway).
>
>
>For those that are thinking of using the same technique, here’s one
>final tip and a few comments.
>
>
>The tip: I had good success using a couple of telescoping hiking poles
>to apply pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the
>lifelines while the VHB tape set up. I also used a heat gun to warm up
>the cabin top before applying the portlight.
>
>
>I have no leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m going to
>wait until the weather warms up before I start on them. I learned that
>the initial bond of the VHB tape is dependent on both the application
>of continuous pressure and the ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet
>does a better job of explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid
>bond, it will hold well even in cold conditions, but you will be doing
>yourself a favour if you wait for warmer conditions.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Sent from Windows Mail
>
>
>
>
>
>From: RPH via CnC-List
>Sent: ‎Sunday‎, ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that
>some might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the
>portlights on my 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the
>on-boat part of the project yesterday and the work is not yet complete.
>
>
>
>
>
>In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to
>1/2 inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide
>rail system and a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics
>manufacturer, and they made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass
>(Bronze 2404). The edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees
>(if I remember correctly). They turned out to be very good
>reproductions of the factory portlights. 
>
>
>
>
>To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB
>4991 Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I
>chose white over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature
>Silicone Coating exhaust paint. 
>
>
>
>
>Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the
>aft, starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I
>could chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a
>methacrylate adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I
>brought my Dremel Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried
>using a flexible scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top.
>This was not effective. In the end, I used several small putty knives
>which easily removed the portlight. 
>
>
>
>
>What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the
>methacrylate adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove
>the adhesive but ultimately decided that the better course would be to
>fair the area with 3m Premium Marine Filler. 
>
>
>
>
>After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place
>while my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the
>protective paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper
>along the tracing and removed the paper surrounding the window opening.
>Next, I spray painted the inside of the portlight black with the DEI
>paint so that the tape and Dow 795 will not be visible against the
>cabin top. 
>
>
>
>
>I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to
>see that it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after
>the surface was carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the
>fairing compound should be left to cure overnight and I will try again
>today. In any event, I have since read that the VHB tape needs time to
>reach maximum adhesion, and that it will adhere more quickly when the
>temperature is warmer. I'll bri

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

> The tip: I had good success using a couple of telescoping hiking poles to 
> apply pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the lifelines while 
> the VHB tape set up. I also used a heat gun to warm up the cabin top before 
> applying the portlight.<

Expandable shower curtain rods (with soft plastic end caps) also work well for 
applying holding/positioning pressure.  I have a set that cover 3.5’ to 4.5’ 
adjustable by rotating one end.  Likely purchased at that great marine store 
Bed, Bath, and Beyond.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert H. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 10:23 AM
To: RPH; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

I am writing to update on my portlight replacement project.

The installation went perfectly and the portlight looks great.

Applying a few wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with removable, 
double-sided poster tape was a very effective way to affix the portlight in 
proper alignment. It slid into position like a puzzle piece, which is good 
because you only get one crack at it with the VHB tape.

I also have a very good feeling about the VHB / DC 795 method - though time 
will be the ultimate judge. I am comforted by the thought that the tape and DC 
795 will allow the portlight to expand and contract with heat and cold at a 
different rate that the cabin top without breaking the bond (in theory, anyway).

For those that are thinking of using the same technique, here’s one final tip 
and a few comments.

The tip: I had good success using a couple of telescoping hiking poles to apply 
pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the lifelines while the VHB 
tape set up. I also used a heat gun to warm up the cabin top before applying 
the portlight.

I have no leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m going to wait 
until the weather warms up before I start on them. I learned that the initial 
bond of the VHB tape is dependent on both the application of continuous 
pressure and the ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet does a better job of 
explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid bond, it will hold well even 
in cold conditions, but you will be doing yourself a favour if you wait for 
warmer conditions.

Sent from Windows Mail

From: RPH via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: ‎Sunday‎, ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
yesterday and the work is not yet complete.

In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and a 
router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They turned 
out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights.

To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 
1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white over 
black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust 
paint.

Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew). 
I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive 
and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel Multimax (which 
is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible scraper to get between 
the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several 
small putty knives which easily removed the portlight.

What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
Premium Marine Filler.

After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while my 
wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective paper 
film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing and 
removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted the 
inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 795 
will not be visible against the cabin top.

I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even 

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Robert H. via CnC-List]

I am writing to update on my portlight replacement project.


The installation went perfectly and the portlight looks great.


Applying a few wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with removable, 
double-sided poster tape was a very effective way to affix the portlight in 
proper alignment. It slid into position like a puzzle piece, which is good 
because you only get one crack at it with the VHB tape.


I also have a very good feeling about the VHB / DC 795 method - though time 
will be the ultimate judge. I am comforted by the thought that the tape and DC 
795 will allow the portlight to expand and contract with heat and cold at a 
different rate that the cabin top without breaking the bond (in theory, anyway).


For those that are thinking of using the same technique, here’s one final tip 
and a few comments.


The tip: I had good success using a couple of telescoping hiking poles to apply 
pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the lifelines while the VHB 
tape set up. I also used a heat gun to warm up the cabin top before applying 
the portlight.


I have no leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m going to wait 
until the weather warms up before I start on them. I learned that the initial 
bond of the VHB tape is dependent on both the application of continuous 
pressure and the ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet does a better job of 
explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid bond, it will hold well even 
in cold conditions, but you will be doing yourself a favour if you wait for 
warmer conditions.






Sent from Windows Mail





From: RPH via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Sunday‎, ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com






I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 




In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and a 
router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They turned 
out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 




To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 
1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white over 
black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust 
paint. 




Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew). 
I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive 
and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel Multimax (which 
is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible scraper to get between 
the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several 
small putty knives which easily removed the portlight. 




What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
Premium Marine Filler. 




After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while my 
wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective paper 
film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing and 
removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted the 
inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 795 
will not be visible against the cabin top. 




I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In any event, I have since 
read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum adhesion, and that it will 
adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. I'll bring a heat gun today 
to warm up the cabin top before applying the portlight. 




Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the inside 
of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will affix a 
few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin top window 
opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can then remove the 
protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then fit the portlight 
into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the tape is set, I will then fill 
the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. 




Th

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Curtis,

Your fixed ports are no doubt acrylic (Plexiglas).  I would think they would
be 3/8".  I've replaced mine twice over the past 15 years.  Cast Plexi is
stronger than the standard extruded variety.  The original Plexi was bronze.
I chose a smoke grey, which I think gives the boat a more modern look.
Plexus adhesive is my go-to tool for getting the work done.  It is what C&C
used and it holds up well.

Jake

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Curtis via CnC-List]

fey fred, Did you replace yours? What did you use?
Thanks.

On Sun, Feb 15, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I agree -- my 30mkI had 3/8" acrylic, as well.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
> On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I used  three eighths cast acrylic... Quarter inch seems thin.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Dennis, 
Could you share the Beneteau window method. Possibly take pictures w your cell 
phone and attach to an email? 

I read an article about a boat builder in Port Townsend using black paint first 
to color the entire window area for asthetics, and then he uses adhesive to 
secure windows on his boats. They looked very sharp. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "Brent Driedger" , "CnClist" 
 
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2015 9:20:32 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795 

Find a Beneteau with the in hull ports. Look carefully at the ports. The white 
ring around the perimeter of the port is paint. 

No clue what paint they used. I have a copy of the Beneteau port installation 
procedure. They use a primer and one part adhesive. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

On Sun, Feb 15, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



This sounds well thought out but I have one thought on this. You say you 
painted the inside of the plexiglass black, the substrate you are now adhering 
to is paint and not the window itself. I'm thinking you may see the window 
separate from the VHB tape and leave the paint behind on the tape as the paint 
is not necessarily a structural bond. Hopefully the paint is more firmly 
adhered to the glass than the tape will be. 
Also be aware that the solvents in the paint may damage the plastic over time 
and cause crazing around the edges. Just a thought. Hopefully I'm overthinking 
this and wrong. 
Good luck with the project, keep us posted. 

Brent 
27-5 
Lake Winnipeg 


Sent from my iPhone 

On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:06 AM, RPH via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 




I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 

In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and a 
router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They turned 
out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 

To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 
1/2" x 2.3mm, 4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white over 
black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust 
paint. 

Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew). 
I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive 
and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel Multimax (which 
is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible scraper to get between 
the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several 
small putty knives which easily removed the portlight. 

What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
Premium Marine Filler. 

After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while my 
wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective paper 
film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing and 
removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted the 
inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 795 
will not be visible against the cabin top. 

I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
left to cure overnight and I will try again today . In any event, I have since 
read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum adhesion, and that it will 
adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. I'll bring a heat gun today 
to warm up the cabin top before applying the portlight. 

Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the inside 
of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will affix a 
few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin top window 
opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can then remove the 
protective film from the other side of the VHB tape an

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Find a Beneteau with the in hull ports.  Look carefully at the ports.  The
white ring around the perimeter of the port is paint.

No clue what paint they used.  I have a copy of the Beneteau port
installation procedure.  They use a primer and one part adhesive.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Feb 15, 2015 at 3:28 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This sounds well thought out but I have one thought on this. You say you
> painted the inside of the plexiglass black, the substrate you are now
> adhering to is paint and not the window itself. I'm thinking you may see
> the window separate from the VHB tape and leave the paint behind on the
> tape as the paint is not necessarily a structural bond.  Hopefully the
> paint is more firmly adhered to the glass than the tape will be.
> Also be aware that the solvents in the paint may damage the plastic over
> time and cause crazing around the edges. Just a thought. Hopefully I'm
> overthinking this and wrong.
> Good luck with the project, keep us posted.
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:06 AM, RPH via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some
> might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my
> 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the
> project yesterday and the work is not yet complete.
>
> In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2
> inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail
> system and a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics
> manufacturer, and they made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze
> 2404). The edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I
> remember correctly). They turned out to be very good reproductions of the
> factory portlights.
>
> To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991
> Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white
> over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone
> Coating exhaust paint.
>
> Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft,
> starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could
> chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate
> adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel
> Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible
> scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective.
> In the end, I used several small putty knives which easily removed the
> portlight.
>
> What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate
> adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but
> ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m
> Premium Marine Filler.
>
> After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place
> while my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the
> protective paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along
> the tracing and removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I
> spray painted the inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that
> the tape and Dow 795 will not be visible against the cabin top.
>
> I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see
> that it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the
> surface was carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing
> compound should be left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In
> any event, I have since read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum
> adhesion, and that it will adhere more quickly when the temperature is
> warmer. I'll bring a heat gun today to warm up the cabin top before
> applying the portlight.
>
> Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the
> inside of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I
> will affix a few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the
> cabin top window opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I
> can then remove the protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and
> then fit the portlight into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the
> tape is set, I will then fill the gap around the outside with the Dow 795.
>
> That's the plan, anyway.
>
> Robert H.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-l

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

This sounds well thought out but I have one thought on this. You say you 
painted the inside of the plexiglass black, the substrate you are now adhering 
to is paint and not the window itself. I'm thinking you may see the window 
separate from the VHB tape and leave the paint behind on the tape as the paint 
is not necessarily a structural bond.  Hopefully the paint is more firmly 
adhered to the glass than the tape will be.  
Also be aware that the solvents in the paint may damage the plastic over time 
and cause crazing around the edges. Just a thought. Hopefully I'm overthinking 
this and wrong. 
Good luck with the project, keep us posted. 

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg


Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:06 AM, RPH via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
> might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
> 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
> yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 
> 
> In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
> ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and 
> a router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
> made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
> portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They 
> turned out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 
> 
> To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 
> Tape 1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white 
> over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating 
> exhaust paint. 
> 
> Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
> starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could 
> chew). I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate 
> adhesive and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel 
> Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible 
> scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. 
> In the end, I used several small putty knives which easily removed the 
> portlight. 
> 
> What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
> adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
> ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
> Premium Marine Filler. 
> 
> After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while 
> my wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective 
> paper film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing 
> and removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted 
> the inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 
> 795 will not be visible against the cabin top. 
> 
> I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
> it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
> carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
> left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In any event, I have since 
> read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum adhesion, and that it will 
> adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. I'll bring a heat gun 
> today to warm up the cabin top before applying the portlight. 
> 
> Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the 
> inside of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will 
> affix a few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin 
> top window opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can 
> then remove the protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then 
> fit the portlight into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the tape is 
> set, I will then fill the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. 
> 
> That's the plan, anyway. 
> 
> Robert H. 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I agree — my 30mkI had 3/8” acrylic, as well.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Feb 15, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> I used  three eighths cast acrylic... Quarter inch seems thin.

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Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I used  three eighths cast acrylic. That matched my factory windows and deck 
lights. I used half inch on my hatches and companionway. Also matched my 
original. Quarter inch seems thin. 

 

1974 33-3 quarter tonner

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RPH via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2015 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

 

I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 

 

In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and a 
router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They turned 
out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 

 

To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 
1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white over 
black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust 
paint. 

 

Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew). 
I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive 
and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel Multimax (which 
is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible scraper to get between 
the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several 
small putty knives which easily removed the portlight. 

 

What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
Premium Marine Filler. 

 

After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while my 
wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective paper 
film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing and 
removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted the 
inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 795 
will not be visible against the cabin top. 

 

I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
left to cure overnight and I will try again today  . In any 
event, I have since read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum 
adhesion, and that it will adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. 
I'll bring a heat gun today   to warm up the cabin top 
before applying the portlight. 

 

Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the inside 
of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will affix a 
few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin top window 
opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can then remove the 
protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then fit the portlight 
into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the tape is set, I will then fill 
the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. 

 

That's the plan, anyway. 

 

Robert H. 

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Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[RPH via CnC-List]

I have been reading the recent posts about windows and I thought that some 
might be interested to hear of my experience replacing the portlights on my 
1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat part of the project 
yesterday and the work is not yet complete. 

In late fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to 1/2 inch 
ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw with a guide rail system and a 
router. I then took my templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they 
made the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The edges of the 
portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I remember correctly). They turned 
out to be very good reproductions of the factory portlights. 

To ready myself for the project, I also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 
1/2" x 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose white over 
black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust 
paint. 

Yesterday, I attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the aft, 
starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite off more than I could chew). 
I knew that the factory portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive 
and that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel Multimax (which 
is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using a flexible scraper to get between 
the plexi and the cabin top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several 
small putty knives which easily removed the portlight. 

What the putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the methacrylate 
adhesive. I tried several different techniques to remove the adhesive but 
ultimately decided that the better course would be to fair the area with 3m 
Premium Marine Filler. 

After sanding the fairing compound, I held the new portlight in place while my 
wife traced the window opening from inside the cabin onto the protective paper 
film. Then I used an Exacto knife to cut the paper along the tracing and 
removed the paper surrounding the window opening. Next, I spray painted the 
inside of the portlight black with the DEI paint so that the tape and Dow 795 
will not be visible against the cabin top. 

I experimented with small pieces of the VHB tape and was surpised to see that 
it did not seem to stick too well to the cabin top even after the surface was 
carefully cleaned with alcohol. I decided that the fairing compound should be 
left to cure overnight and I will try again today. In any event, I have since 
read that the VHB tape needs time to reach maximum adhesion, and that it will 
adhere more quickly when the temperature is warmer. I'll bring a heat gun today 
to warm up the cabin top before applying the portlight. 

Anyway, if all goes well, the plan is to first affix the VHB tape to the inside 
of the portlight. Then, with the portlight dry-fitted in place, I will affix a 
few wooden blocks to the inside of the portlight (through the cabin top window 
opening) using double sided poster tape. My hope is that I can then remove the 
protective film from the other side of the VHB tape and then fit the portlight 
into place like a "key" into a keyhole. After the tape is set, I will then fill 
the gap around the outside with the Dow 795. 

That's the plan, anyway. 

Robert H. 
___

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