Stus-List Bottom Paint question
At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but, HEY, I'm getting old(er). In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote that seems to be on the boat now. I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed, in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town. So which version of Micron will work better here? Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question
Micron 66 needs salt to work. My water is about 1200ppm halfway up the Chesapeake Bay. If you are saltier than me then you might try 66...otherwise steer clear. It can flake off in hand sized flakes. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Mar 30, 2015 9:32 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but, HEY, I'm getting old(er). In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote that seems to be on the boat now. I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed, in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town. So which version of Micron will work better here? Rick Brass *Imzadi *CC 38 mk 2 *la Belle Aurore *CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question
Rick Contact Interlux directly with both questions and they will be happy to answer your questions. www.yachtpaint.comhttp://www.yachtpaint.com is their web site and their technical support is very good and they also list the properties of all their paints on the site. From my recollection Micron 66 is SALT WATER only. There is also Micron CSC and Micron Extra either of which I think are ok for your situation. In the VC series VC Offshore is SALT WATER and VC 17 is fresh water Regards Mike Hoyt Persistence From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 10:32 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint question At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but, HEY, I'm getting old(er). In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote that seems to be on the boat now. I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed, in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town. So which version of Micron will work better here? Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question
The surface prep and the paint compatibilities are critical. As Mike suggested, calling the Tech Help 800 # at Yachtpaint is the best way to get specific answers for their paints. They also know how their paints fair over other companies' paints, whether the prior paint needs to be removed or just a good sanding will suffice. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 9:39 AM To: Rick Brass; CC List Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint question Micron 66 needs salt to work. My water is about 1200ppm halfway up the Chesapeake Bay. If you are saltier than me then you might try 66...otherwise steer clear. It can flake off in hand sized flakes. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Mar 30, 2015 9:32 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: At the risk of starting a firestorm of comment about everyone's favorite bottom paint, I need to ask a question. I actually hate to ask, since I should recall the answer from the discussion a couple of weeks ago, but, HEY, I'm getting old(er). In a couple of weeks I will be helping a friend paint the bottom on her new-to-her 29-2. My suggestion, based on my experience in our area, is to use Petit Ultima SR 60. But it seems that Micron might be significantly less expensive. And it might be more compatible over the Fiberglass Bottomkote that seems to be on the boat now. I recall a comment or two in the recent discussion that indicated that the two versions of Micron had different effectiveness in brackish water vs salt water. One worked better in salt water, the other was more effective in brackish/freshish water. The boat is going to be stored, and mostly sailed, in brackish to fresh water in the river that runs through town. So which version of Micron will work better here? Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Brian From what you have described it is your barrier coat that is failing. It will continue to fail over time and sooner or later (but not necessarily now) you will have to strip it off. At some point is good to get rid of the old barrier coat so that you can inspect the bottom for blisters, cracks, etc ... If it were me and boat was new to me I would inspect carefully from inside and then if seems to be OK would slap on an ablative paint over the mess and go sailing for year one. I would also put a proper bottom job on my to do list as a high priority for year two or three. Mike -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 8:12 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Not concerned with racing at all or appearance on the hard for that matter. My concerns here is sufficient protection and cost. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 3:23 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many CC boats that ever developed blisters...my knowledge is of boats in more northern climates maybe, like here around Nova Scotia. And as far as the racing goes, I appreciate for guys like Dennis Connor and his book No Excuse to Lose that a clean bottom is faster but for most of us, we lose by other means. So if getting the bottom perfect is what you need to do to gain those precious seconds then strip her down fair everything to perfection, long sand the bottom and dry sail the boat...that seems a lot of work for club racing but sometimes ego rules...otherwise just clean and repair the bad spots and concentrate on improving some of the other skills that will make you chances of winning better...unless you want to do a lot of work or if you are particularly concerned about how the bottom looks on the hard before launch -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: March 25, 2014 1:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the boat every couple of weeks or more often. A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding block, then roll on whatever you decide to use. But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have been using Hydrocoat ever since. Gary ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Sounds good to me Mike. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 8:26 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Brian From what you have described it is your barrier coat that is failing. It will continue to fail over time and sooner or later (but not necessarily now) you will have to strip it off. At some point is good to get rid of the old barrier coat so that you can inspect the bottom for blisters, cracks, etc ... If it were me and boat was new to me I would inspect carefully from inside and then if seems to be OK would slap on an ablative paint over the mess and go sailing for year one. I would also put a proper bottom job on my to do list as a high priority for year two or three. Mike -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 8:12 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Not concerned with racing at all or appearance on the hard for that matter. My concerns here is sufficient protection and cost. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 3:23 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many CC boats that ever developed blisters...my knowledge is of boats in more northern climates maybe, like here around Nova Scotia. And as far as the racing goes, I appreciate for guys like Dennis Connor and his book No Excuse to Lose that a clean bottom is faster but for most of us, we lose by other means. So if getting the bottom perfect is what you need to do to gain those precious seconds then strip her down fair everything to perfection, long sand the bottom and dry sail the boat...that seems a lot of work for club racing but sometimes ego rules...otherwise just clean and repair the bad spots and concentrate on improving some of the other skills that will make you chances of winning better...unless you want to do a lot of work or if you are particularly concerned about how the bottom looks on the hard before launch -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: March 25, 2014 1:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the boat every couple of weeks or more often. A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding block, then roll on whatever you decide to use. But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have been using Hydrocoat ever since. Gary ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Brian, My boat originally had Baltoplate. I successfully put VC Offshore over the top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems. The paints are quite similar. Last year I had the boat soda blasted. I then did a barrier coat and VC Offshore. The hull came out of the soda blasting very smooth. No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth surface. The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the barrier coat. It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping the boat for the long haul. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Is that with the barrier coat and bottom paint. That's a good price of so... T-Mobile. America’s First Nationwide 4G Network - Reply message - From: Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Date: Mon, Mar 24, 2014 11:02 pm Thanks. The yard gave me an estimate of about $2000. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:37 PM, John and Maryann Read johnpr...@comcast.net wrote: Blasting by a professional - they usually use walnut shells or the like. Tent the bottom, blast away, clean it all up. Typical cost for a 34 footer is about $1200. Well worth it because it takes them a day to do it and how long will it take you and what will you have to pay your chiropractor?? Gelcoat is usually untouched. You do a light sanding. Strongly suggest you do a barrier coat treatment at this time. Apply paint. Go sailing John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com Meet With Fellow CEOs. Meet With Fellow CEOs Through Vistage Discuss Business Challenges. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3165/53315fa79bf265f9f3881ma02vuc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
I used a chemical peel product several years ago. Very happy with the result. Think it was called Peel Away made specifically for boats. They have two products -one leaves barrier coat intact the other strips it. -- Jonathan Indigo CC 35III SOUTHPORT CT On Mar 24, 2014, at 21:19, Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com wrote: The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
That price does not sound bad My last boat and current boat I stripped to gelcoat by hand. Paint scraper and random orbital sander with 120 grit used carefully. Prior to that was pressure washing using gas powered pressure washer. It was 4 x 8 hour days on a 26 footer and on a 27 footer each with 8 foot beam. It would be considerably longer (probably more than double) on a 34 footer. Meanwhiel my friend with a CC 99 had his soda blasted in approx. 3 hours. A large part of your $2000 would also be the barrier coat and antifouling paint as a good paint is over $200 / gallon and barrier coat is not cheap either One caution. Make sure the barrier coat is a good product and not one that has been on the shelf a while. A friend had his 34 footer done and the barrier coat was on sale and had lumps in it. After all his work the bottom was not smooth. Even if you do not race then spending $2000 to have a crappy job done is still a problem. Mike BTW - when I took the 27 down to gelcoat there were scratch marks from a previous sanding by a previous owner. Looked like they used 80 grit or coarser on a ROS. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:03 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Thanks. The yard gave me an estimate of about $2000. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:37 PM, John and Maryann Read johnpr...@comcast.net wrote: Blasting by a professional - they usually use walnut shells or the like. Tent the bottom, blast away, clean it all up. Typical cost for a 34 footer is about $1200. Well worth it because it takes them a day to do it and how long will it take you and what will you have to pay your chiropractor?? Gelcoat is usually untouched. You do a light sanding. Strongly suggest you do a barrier coat treatment at this time. Apply paint. Go sailing John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the problem. Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up just patching it every year. Gary - Original Message - From: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Brian, My boat originally had Baltoplate. I successfully put VC Offshore over the top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems. The paints are quite similar. Last year I had the boat soda blasted. I then did a barrier coat and VC Offshore. The hull came out of the soda blasting very smooth. No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth surface. The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the barrier coat. It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping the boat for the long haul. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
That is the case somewhat Gary. In most areas it peeled down to the gelcoat. If I could get away with one season of painting on top of what's there without too many issues I would take that. Brian Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:58 AM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote: I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the problem. Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up just patching it every year. Gary - Original Message - From: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Brian, My boat originally had Baltoplate. I successfully put VC Offshore over the top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems. The paints are quite similar. Last year I had the boat soda blasted. I then did a barrier coat and VC Offshore. The hull came out of the soda blasting very smooth. No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth surface. The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the barrier coat. It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping the boat for the long haul. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the boat every couple of weeks or more often. A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding block, then roll on whatever you decide to use. But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have been using Hydrocoat ever since. Gary - Original Message - From: Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:13 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question That is the case somewhat Gary. In most areas it peeled down to the gelcoat. If I could get away with one season of painting on top of what's there without too many issues I would take that. Brian Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:58 AM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote: I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the problem. Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up just patching it every year. Gary - Original Message - From: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Brian, My boat originally had Baltoplate. I successfully put VC Offshore over the top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems. The paints are quite similar. Last year I had the boat soda blasted. I then did a barrier coat and VC Offshore. The hull came out of the soda blasting very smooth. No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth surface. The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the barrier coat. It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping the boat for the long haul. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many CC boats that ever developed blisters...my knowledge is of boats in more northern climates maybe, like here around Nova Scotia. And as far as the racing goes, I appreciate for guys like Dennis Connor and his book No Excuse to Lose that a clean bottom is faster but for most of us, we lose by other means. So if getting the bottom perfect is what you need to do to gain those precious seconds then strip her down fair everything to perfection, long sand the bottom and dry sail the boat...that seems a lot of work for club racing but sometimes ego rules...otherwise just clean and repair the bad spots and concentrate on improving some of the other skills that will make you chances of winning better...unless you want to do a lot of work or if you are particularly concerned about how the bottom looks on the hard before launch -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: March 25, 2014 1:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the boat every couple of weeks or more often. A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding block, then roll on whatever you decide to use. But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have been using Hydrocoat ever since. Gary ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Brian: One always has the option doing very littlethrow another coat of paint over the old stuff. However, if you decide you want to do more than 'very little', you got it right.To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So true. So, do you want to strip a 34' hull of antifouling paint (last time I did it was 1991, won't ever do it myself again) and apply paint..so that is the very time and labor intensive on your part. And if you haven't done it before, it will make for even more angst. Now you can pay to have it done.pay now and have it done right, its a long term investment. Won't tell you what I did in 2006 when we brought our CC 32.don't want to be bias. Life is all about making choices..hope that helps. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/03/24 10:19 PM, Brian Morrison wrote: The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Thanks Gary. That's the kind of workaround I was hoping for. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 12:53 PM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote: If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the boat every couple of weeks or more often. A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding block, then roll on whatever you decide to use. But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have been using Hydrocoat ever since. Gary - Original Message - From: Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 12:13 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question That is the case somewhat Gary. In most areas it peeled down to the gelcoat. If I could get away with one season of painting on top of what's there without too many issues I would take that. Brian Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 9:58 AM, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote: I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the problem. Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up just patching it every year. Gary - Original Message - From: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 5:59 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question Brian, My boat originally had Baltoplate. I successfully put VC Offshore over the top of it for a number of years without any adhesion problems. The paints are quite similar. Last year I had the boat soda blasted. I then did a barrier coat and VC Offshore. The hull came out of the soda blasting very smooth. No way could I have ever sanded it clean and left a smooth surface. The only thing I needed to do was fill a couple of blisters and start the barrier coat. It's definitely the right way to go, if you plan on keeping the boat for the long haul. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Not concerned with racing at all or appearance on the hard for that matter. My concerns here is sufficient protection and cost. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 3:23 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: I agree with most of what Gary says but I am not aware of many CC boats that ever developed blisters...my knowledge is of boats in more northern climates maybe, like here around Nova Scotia. And as far as the racing goes, I appreciate for guys like Dennis Connor and his book No Excuse to Lose that a clean bottom is faster but for most of us, we lose by other means. So if getting the bottom perfect is what you need to do to gain those precious seconds then strip her down fair everything to perfection, long sand the bottom and dry sail the boat...that seems a lot of work for club racing but sometimes ego rules...otherwise just clean and repair the bad spots and concentrate on improving some of the other skills that will make you chances of winning better...unless you want to do a lot of work or if you are particularly concerned about how the bottom looks on the hard before launch -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: March 25, 2014 1:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question If you're not looking for the ultimate racing bottom, why not do a careful scrape to get the loose stuff off and put something on top? Talk to the paint manufacturers or West Marine - they have tables of what goes over what. You can put something like Hydrocoat over just about anything and, because it is ablative, it will mostly come off in a year or so and you can continue (as long as you aren't getting big peels) as long as you want. Baltoplate is very hard and smooth and doesn't have much copper or other anti-fouling properties, that's why the racers use it, but they dive on the boat every couple of weeks or more often. A hand sanding just to put some 'bite' on what's there (after getting the loose stuff off) should get you through the year. Use a sponge sanding block, then roll on whatever you decide to use. But, sooner or later you should have all the junk taken off and get down to gelcoat and then put a barrier coat on - that will keep the boat from absorbing moisture and possibly developing blisters. When I peeled mine, I found that it already had a barrier coat (PO?) and that was good. I have been using Hydrocoat ever since. Gary ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
$1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom. Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5 coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons. Bottom paint for Baltimore's brackish water, Micron Extra, 2 gallons. $2000 probably doesn't do all that is needed, just saying? Chuck - Original Message - From: Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19:25 PM Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Thanks Rob Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 4:11 PM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: Brian: One always has the option doing very littlethrow another coat of paint over the old stuff. However, if you decide you want to do more than 'very little', you got it right.To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So true. So, do you want to strip a 34' hull of antifouling paint (last time I did it was 1991, won't ever do it myself again) and apply paint..so that is the very time and labor intensive on your part. And if you haven't done it before, it will make for even more angst. Now you can pay to have it done.pay now and have it done right, its a long term investment. Won't tell you what I did in 2006 when we brought our CC 32.don't want to be bias. Life is all about making choices..hope that helps. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/03/24 10:19 PM, Brian Morrison wrote: The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Whew!!! I'll keep that in mind for the future Chuck. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 25, 2014, at 7:13 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: $1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom. Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5 coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons. Bottom paint for Baltimore's brackish water, Micron Extra, 2 gallons. $2000 probably doesn't do all that is needed, just saying? Chuck From: Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19:25 PM Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
I got a price to sandblast, fair, barrier coat and bottom paint for $2650 including materials. They're doing the work now From my Android phone Original message From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net Date: 03/25/2014 7:12 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question $1600 to professionally Soda blast bottom. Fair any problems, Barrier Coat 5 coats of InterProtect, alternating white and grey, 4 to 5 gallons. Bottom paint for Baltimore's brackish water, Micron Extra, 2 gallons. $2000 probably doesn't do all that is needed, just saying? Chuck From: Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19:25 PM Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com High blood pressure breakthrough Korean Biochemist makes high blood pressure breakthrough http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/533213a5f2ddd13a41132st02duc___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Gary, I read the VC Offshore instructions today. It is approved to put over Baltoplate. Both paints have compatible chemistry. I've done it and it works well. I was only reading the instruction to find out the temperature limits for applying VC. It's currently 34F and snowing here. Evidently I can't paint until the hull is at least 50F. Jake -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2014 9:58 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question I think the original note said there had been Baltoplate and then something else on top - and the something else was what was peeling. My impression is not many other paints (or anything else) stick to Baltoplate, so it has to be roughed up and/or stripped off, which means what is on top is the problem. Unfortunately, this top coat will have to be taken off or you will end up just patching it every year. Gary ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Blasting by a professional - they usually use walnut shells or the like. Tent the bottom, blast away, clean it all up. Typical cost for a 34 footer is about $1200. Well worth it because it takes them a day to do it and how long will it take you and what will you have to pay your chiropractor?? Gelcoat is usually untouched. You do a light sanding. Strongly suggest you do a barrier coat treatment at this time. Apply paint. Go sailing John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
soda blasting! Good Luck SFW Sent from my iPad On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:19 PM, Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com wrote: The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
I sanded the bottom on Touché down to gelcoat/matte coat a couple years ago. I was able to because I'm both retired and knowledgeable about boat work. If not, I would have had it professionally soda blasted. Sanding the bottom may sound straightforward but requires experience and touch. It also requires the right equipment. A 5 inch dual action sander from a big box store may seem like a decent tool but it may actually result in a scalloped bottom. It takes a very steady hand to hold and move the sander keeping it exactly parallel with the sanding surface. Most users will rock the tool slightly which will result in a scalloped or undulated bottom (might look nice on some bottoms but not a race boat). A larger soft pad sander with a steady is required. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Mar 24, 2014, at 7:37 PM, John and Maryann Read johnpr...@comcast.net wrote: Blasting by a professional - they usually use walnut shells or the like. Tent the bottom, blast away, clean it all up. Typical cost for a 34 footer is about $1200. Well worth it because it takes them a day to do it and how long will it take you and what will you have to pay your chiropractor?? Gelcoat is usually untouched. You do a light sanding. Strongly suggest you do a barrier coat treatment at this time. Apply paint. Go sailing John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Thanks. The yard gave me an estimate of about $2000. Dr. Brian C. Morrison On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:37 PM, John and Maryann Read johnpr...@comcast.net wrote: Blasting by a professional - they usually use walnut shells or the like. Tent the bottom, blast away, clean it all up. Typical cost for a 34 footer is about $1200. Well worth it because it takes them a day to do it and how long will it take you and what will you have to pay your chiropractor?? Gelcoat is usually untouched. You do a light sanding. Strongly suggest you do a barrier coat treatment at this time. Apply paint. Go sailing John and Maryann Legacy III 1982 CC 34 Noank, CT -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Morrison Sent: Monday, March 24, 2014 9:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom Paint Question
Add more Baltaplate. Mike Cotton On Monday, March 24, 2014 7:39 PM, Slawomir Woronkowicz fworonkow...@gmail.com wrote: soda blasting! Good Luck SFW Sent from my iPad On Mar 24, 2014, at 9:19 PM, Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com wrote: The weather has finally broken here in lovely Baltimore and it's time to paint the bottom. The staff at the boatyard told me that the previous owner had baltaplate paint and then painted over it with a different type of paint. The paint is peeling in some areas and they suggest sanding down to the gelcoat and starting fresh. To do this will be costly or very time and labor intensive on my part. So my question is can I avoid the cost or labor using some other method I may not be aware of? I really hope there is a viable alternative. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Brian C. Morrison 1979 CC 34 Rekofa ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
