Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

This is true, and That is where I got mine, but I don't think they cost 27
bucks - I did this this summer, and it took a few tries to find one slim
enough, and at that I had to file off some plastic on the edges. C used
the tiniest boxes they could find. 

 

Bill Coleman 

C 39 Erie


Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

 

Leviton has a "slim profile GFCI outlet that fits in tight boxes.

 
<http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-SmartLockPro-15-Amp-Slim-GFCI-Duplex-Out
let-White-3-Pack-M02-N7599-03W/203542939>
<http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-SmartLockPro-15-Amp-Slim-GFCI-Duplex-Out
let-White-3-Pack-M02-N7599-03W/203542939>

Bill Bina

On 9/23/2015 9:57 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:

The biggest difference I've seen is price; put the word "marine" or "boat"
on anything and the cost goes up. 

 

As with the others, I've had good luck with a good GFCI from Home Depot; you
may need to put a bigger back-box in, though, as they don't wire too well
into standard electrical boxes as they're so big.  Also, NO WIRE NUTS!!!
And you should use locking fork terminals that snap over the screws, rather
than try to wrap the wire around and tighten the screw (that doesn't satisfy
the ABYC standards):

 

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla
<http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla=PLA-Google-PL
A+-+Test_003=7867724_010=02650968>
=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_003=7867724_010=02650968


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Sep 23, 2015, at 12:00 AM, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 

I did the same as Jim, installed  hardware store GFI outlets in both the
galley and head. Each being on different circuits. That was 8 years ago and
no issues using them on a daily basis. 

Doug Mountjoy

sv  Pegasus 

LF38

Ballard WA




Doug Mountjoy

sv Pegasus 

LF38

just west of Ballard, WA

 

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:54 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not a
GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the
recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is it
enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the difference
between a hardware store "weather proof" or a marine equivalent. A search of
the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is possible the marine
variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire vs solid wire like
would be used in a home.

 

Bad thing is we don't even have access to shore power on our lake...but
standards are standards where insurance is concerned.

 

Thanks

David Donnelly 

C 26 Mistress

 






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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

That price is for a 3-pack. :-)

Bill Bina

On 9/24/2015 7:44 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

This is true, and That is where I got mine, but I don’t think they cost
27 bucks – I did this this summer, and it took a few tries to find one
slim enough, and at that I had to file off some plastic on the edges.
C used the tiniest boxes they could find.

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie


*Subject:* Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

Leviton has a "slim profile GFCI outlet that fits in tight boxes.

<http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-SmartLockPro-15-Amp-Slim-GFCI-Duplex-Outlet-White-3-Pack-M02-N7599-03W/203542939>
<http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-SmartLockPro-15-Amp-Slim-GFCI-Duplex-Outlet-White-3-Pack-M02-N7599-03W/203542939>

Bill Bina



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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[david via CnC-List]

Thanks guys. Confirmed my thoughts and what information I had found online. I
also had another survey situation with the wire nuts being a no-no so I know
about that one already.
 
David Donnelly
C 26 Mistress

> On September 23, 2015 at 8:57 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> 
>  The biggest difference I’ve seen is price; put the word “marine” or “boat” on
> anything and the cost goes up.
>   
>  As with the others, I’ve had good luck with a good GFCI from Home Depot; you
> may need to put a bigger back-box in, though, as they don’t wire too well into
> standard electrical boxes as they’re so big.  Also, NO WIRE NUTS!!!  And you
> should use locking fork terminals that snap over the screws, rather than try
> to wrap the wire around and tighten the screw (that doesn't satisfy the ABYC
> standards):
>   
> 
> http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_003=7867724_010=02650968
> 
> 
>  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>  S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
> 
>  > >   
> > 
> >  >___

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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet w/ USB?

[PME via CnC-List]

My old 29mk1 was setup with one GFCI protecting all outlets.  Have you verified 
that the head outlet is
 separate by tripping the GFCI and seeing if there is still power? 


On another note,  they now have combination USB-120VAC outlets.  Does anyone 
know if it comes in a GFCI version?


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On Sep 23, 2015, at 10:17 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2015 21:54:02 -0600
> From: "David Donnelly" <da...@gnuattitude.ca <mailto:da...@gnuattitude.ca>>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List GFCI Outlet
> Message-ID: <00d901d0f5b3$7fef1370$7fcd3a50$@gnuattitude.ca 
> <mailto:00d901d0f5b3$7fef1370$7fcd3a50$@gnuattitude.ca>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not a
> GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the
> recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is it
> enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the difference
> between a hardware store "weather proof" or a marine equivalent. A search of
> the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is possible the marine
> variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire vs solid wire like
> would be used in a home.
> 
> 
> 
> Bad thing is we don't even have access to shore power on our lake...but
> standards are standards where insurance is concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David Donnelly 
> 
> C 26 Mistress

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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

“Weatherproof” is the outlet box and cover, not the actual GFCI outlet.  
Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Bell-5180-0-Horizontal-Weatherproof/dp/B000C14XKA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8=1443019048=8-5=weatherproof+outlet+cover
http://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Bell-5101-1-Horizontal-Weatherproof/dp/B000BVZAX0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8=1443019102=8-3=weatherproof+outlet+cover+gfci

I used these for my outlets in the v-berth because spay and rain coming in the 
hatch can possibly get on the outlets. You would want these for your head for 
general safety and taking a shower in there if you ever do.

Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of david via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2015 10:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: david
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

Thanks guys. Confirmed my thoughts and what information I had found online. I 
also had another survey situation with the wire nuts being a no-no so I know 
about that one already.

David Donnelly
C 26 Mistress
On September 23, 2015 at 8:57 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The biggest difference I’ve seen is price; put the word “marine” or “boat” on 
anything and the cost goes up.

As with the others, I’ve had good luck with a good GFCI from Home Depot; you 
may need to put a bigger back-box in, though, as they don’t wire too well into 
standard electrical boxes as they’re so big.  Also, NO WIRE NUTS!!!  And you 
should use locking fork terminals that snap over the screws, rather than try to 
wrap the wire around and tighten the screw (that doesn't satisfy the ABYC 
standards):

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_003=7867724_010=02650968

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

The biggest difference I’ve seen is price; put the word “marine” or “boat” on 
anything and the cost goes up.

As with the others, I’ve had good luck with a good GFCI from Home Depot; you 
may need to put a bigger back-box in, though, as they don’t wire too well into 
standard electrical boxes as they’re so big.  Also, NO WIRE NUTS!!!  And you 
should use locking fork terminals that snap over the screws, rather than try to 
wrap the wire around and tighten the screw (that doesn't satisfy the ABYC 
standards):

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_003=7867724_010=02650968

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 23, 2015, at 12:00 AM, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I did the same as Jim, installed  hardware store GFI outlets in both the 
> galley and head. Each being on different circuits. That was 8 years ago and 
> no issues using them on a daily basis. 
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv  Pegasus 
> LF38
> Ballard WA
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Pegasus 
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA
> 
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:54 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not a 
> GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the 
> recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is it 
> enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the difference 
> between a hardware store “weather proof” or a marine equivalent. A search of 
> the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is possible the marine 
> variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire vs solid wire like 
> would be used in a home.
> 
>  
> 
> Bad thing is we don’t even have access to shore power on our lake…..but 
> standards are standards where insurance is concerned.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David Donnelly 
> 
> C 26 Mistress
> 

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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

Leviton has a "slim profile GFCI outlet that fits in tight boxes.



Bill Bina

On 9/23/2015 9:57 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
The biggest difference I’ve seen is price; put the word “marine” or 
“boat” on anything and the cost goes up.


As with the others, I’ve had good luck with a good GFCI from Home 
Depot; you may need to put a bigger back-box in, though, as they don’t 
wire too well into standard electrical boxes as they’re so big.  Also, 
NO WIRE NUTS!!!  And you should use /locking/ fork terminals that snap 
over the screws, rather than try to wrap the wire around and tighten 
the screw (that doesn't satisfy the ABYC standards):


http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_003=7867724_010=02650968

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Sep 23, 2015, at 12:00 AM, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I did the same as Jim, installed hardware store GFI outlets in both 
the galley and head. Each being on different circuits. That was 8 
years ago and no issues using them on a daily basis.

Doug Mountjoy
sv  Pegasus
LF38
Ballard WA


Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:54 PM, David Donnelly via 
CnC-List>wrote:


So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the
head is not a GFCI (as this was not required during original
construction) and the recommendation is to change it to a GFCI
outlet as per ABYC standards. Is it enough to change just the one
receptacle and if so what is the difference between a hardware
store “weather proof” or a marine equivalent. A search of the web
has brought me nothing definitive although it is possible the
marine variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire vs
solid wire like would be used in a home.

Bad thing is we don’t even have access to shore power on our
lake…..but standards are standards where insurance is concerned.

Thanks

David Donnelly

C 26 Mistress





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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sorry, that was the wrong link — those are for 1/4” bolts.  This is the correct 
one for #10 bolts:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650943 


And this one for #8 bolts:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650992

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 23, 2015, at 8:57 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The biggest difference I’ve seen is price; put the word “marine” or “boat” on 
> anything and the cost goes up.
> 
> As with the others, I’ve had good luck with a good GFCI from Home Depot; you 
> may need to put a bigger back-box in, though, as they don’t wire too well 
> into standard electrical boxes as they’re so big.  Also, NO WIRE NUTS!!!  And 
> you should use locking fork terminals that snap over the screws, rather than 
> try to wrap the wire around and tighten the screw (that doesn't satisfy the 
> ABYC standards):
> 
> http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02650968?src=pla=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test_003=7867724_010=02650968
>  
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

worked for Hubbell for 21 years  There is no standard specifying what 
constitutes marine grade, so, the difference could simply be the label.  The 
GFCI, despite being a safety device, is built offshore to a price, driven that 
way by the residential construction market.  The marine variant might be 
upgraded in some basic ways (visible plating) or might not, and this will vary 
by manufacturer. Years ago, manufacturers built better stuff and did not 
focus so much on standardization and cost.   To be fair, most customers are not 
willing to pay for better, when good enough will do.   
GFCIs have provision to protect downstream devices, but they must be wired 
accordingly. The GFCI first, and the downstream receptacles connected to the 
purpose-specific terminals on that GFCI.   Note that this means that the 
cumulative ground leakage for the downstream portion are now "seen" by the 
GFCI, and "nuisance tripping" could be a result. 
Are you worried about safety or compliance?
I think the biggest safety issue is not in the head but somewhere else, 
probably when working on the boat.  (how often do you use 110v appliances 
concurrent with the presence of standing water  in the head?  At home sure, but 
in the boat?  In two years I have never used the receptacle in the head. )
IMO to do this right, install a GFCI receptacle or module as far upstream as 
possible, but after the 15A branch circuit breaker (in the 33ii there are two 
circuits, port and starboard, I think.)   protecting as a priority the 
receptacles where you are most likely to be using 120v - fans, tools.  .   
One thing to check, and I don't know the answer, is whether or not you are 
protected on circuits energized by an inverter.   GFCIs don't or at least 
didn't always work without a real ground reference.   (Gensets as an example - 
years ago this created a great deal of confusion WRT workplace safety 
practices.)
Dave

 




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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Most inverters sold now (I know, not all) are isolated from the ground, and 
should NOT have one side grounded, but the new GFCIs are not dependent on 
the existence of an earth ground. It is legal to install 3 pronged GFCI 
receptacles in older houses without separate ground wires where I live, 
because the GFCI works by detecting any difference in the current flowing in 
the 2 wires. There is no separate earth ground available in that situation.


The GFCI circuits might also be affected by the harmonic content of the 
"quasi" sinewave inverters, but I have not tried it. The waveform from these 
inverters is a rectangle, tuned to minimise the third harmonic. Not all 
loads like that sort of power, but everything I have tried so far seems to 
work ok.


Steve Thomas


- Original Message - 
From: "Syerdave--- via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "syerd...@gmail.com" <syerd...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2015 12:17
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet


worked for Hubbell for 21 years  There is no standard specifying what 
constitutes marine grade, so, the difference could simply be the label. 
The GFCI, despite being a safety device, is built offshore to a price, 
driven that way by the residential construction market.  The marine 
variant might be upgraded in some basic ways (visible plating) or might 
not, and this will vary by manufacturer. Years ago, manufacturers 
built better stuff and did not focus so much on standardization and cost. 
To be fair, most customers are not willing to pay for better, when good 
enough will do.
GFCIs have provision to protect downstream devices, but they must be wired 
accordingly. The GFCI first, and the downstream receptacles connected to 
the purpose-specific terminals on that GFCI.   Note that this means that 
the cumulative ground leakage for the downstream portion are now "seen" by 
the GFCI, and "nuisance tripping" could be a result.

Are you worried about safety or compliance?
I think the biggest safety issue is not in the head but somewhere else, 
probably when working on the boat.  (how often do you use 110v appliances 
concurrent with the presence of standing water  in the head?  At home 
sure, but in the boat?  In two years I have never used the receptacle in 
the head. )
IMO to do this right, install a GFCI receptacle or module as far upstream 
as possible, but after the 15A branch circuit breaker (in the 33ii there 
are two circuits, port and starboard, I think.)   protecting as a priority 
the receptacles where you are most likely to be using 120v - fans, tools. 
.
One thing to check, and I don't know the answer, is whether or not you are 
protected on circuits energized by an inverter.   GFCIs don't or at least 
didn't always work without a real ground reference.   (Gensets as an 
example - years ago this created a great deal of confusion WRT workplace 
safety practices.)

Dave




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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My GFCIs trip when tested on inverter power. Grounding and inverters is a 
complicated subject. "Real" marine certified inverters with internal cut-over 
switches will work one way and the various cheap consumer units not intended to 
be hardwired could work any possible way. 
Joe DB
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2015 1:00 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

Most inverters sold now (I know, not all) are isolated from the ground, and 
should NOT have one side grounded, but the new GFCIs are not dependent on the 
existence of an earth ground. It is legal to install 3 pronged GFCI receptacles 
in older houses without separate ground wires where I live, because the GFCI 
works by detecting any difference in the current flowing in the 2 wires. There 
is no separate earth ground available in that situation.

The GFCI circuits might also be affected by the harmonic content of the "quasi" 
sinewave inverters, but I have not tried it. The waveform from these inverters 
is a rectangle, tuned to minimise the third harmonic. Not all loads like that 
sort of power, but everything I have tried so far seems to work ok.

Steve Thomas


- Original Message -
From: "Syerdave--- via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "syerd...@gmail.com" <syerd...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2015 12:17
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet


> worked for Hubbell for 21 years  There is no standard specifying what 
> constitutes marine grade, so, the difference could simply be the label. 
> The GFCI, despite being a safety device, is built offshore to a price, 
> driven that way by the residential construction market.  The marine 
> variant might be upgraded in some basic ways (visible plating) or might 
> not, and this will vary by manufacturer. Years ago, manufacturers 
> built better stuff and did not focus so much on standardization and cost. 
> To be fair, most customers are not willing to pay for better, when good 
> enough will do.
> GFCIs have provision to protect downstream devices, but they must be wired 
> accordingly. The GFCI first, and the downstream receptacles connected to 
> the purpose-specific terminals on that GFCI.   Note that this means that 
> the cumulative ground leakage for the downstream portion are now "seen" by 
> the GFCI, and "nuisance tripping" could be a result.
> Are you worried about safety or compliance?
> I think the biggest safety issue is not in the head but somewhere else, 
> probably when working on the boat.  (how often do you use 110v appliances 
> concurrent with the presence of standing water  in the head?  At home 
> sure, but in the boat?  In two years I have never used the receptacle in 
> the head. )
> IMO to do this right, install a GFCI receptacle or module as far upstream 
> as possible, but after the 15A branch circuit breaker (in the 33ii there 
> are two circuits, port and starboard, I think.)   protecting as a priority 
> the receptacles where you are most likely to be using 120v - fans, tools. 
> .
> One thing to check, and I don't know the answer, is whether or not you are 
> protected on circuits energized by an inverter.   GFCIs don't or at least 
> didn't always work without a real ground reference.   (Gensets as an 
> example - years ago this created a great deal of confusion WRT workplace 
> safety practices.)
> Dave
>


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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I did the same as Jim, installed  hardware store GFI outlets in both the
galley and head. Each being on different circuits. That was 8 years ago and
no issues using them on a daily basis.
Doug Mountjoy
sv  Pegasus
LF38
Ballard WA


Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:54 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not
> a GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the
> recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is
> it enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the
> difference between a hardware store “weather proof” or a marine equivalent.
> A search of the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is
> possible the marine variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire
> vs solid wire like would be used in a home.
>
>
>
> Bad thing is we don’t even have access to shore power on our lake…..but
> standards are standards where insurance is concerned.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> David Donnelly
>
> C 26 Mistress
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[David Donnelly via CnC-List]

So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not a
GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the
recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is it
enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the difference
between a hardware store "weather proof" or a marine equivalent. A search of
the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is possible the marine
variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire vs solid wire like
would be used in a home.

 

Bad thing is we don't even have access to shore power on our lake...but
standards are standards where insurance is concerned.

 

Thanks

David Donnelly 

C 26 Mistress

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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Prime Interest]

There are two ABYC requirements for new boats- one being the GFCI
requirement ( 5mA trip specified  ) for the receptacles in wet areas and the
second being ELCI breakers on the shore power feed which typically have a
30mA trip. Both are required.

 

I installed the Blue Sea ELCI when I was updating my A/C side last year and
haven't had any nuisance trips. I have both charger/inverter and hot water
on the boat.

 

 

Ed

 

Prime Interest

1982 CC 38 Landfall

Toronto, Canada

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Heaton
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 5:40 PM
To: cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

 

Hey Edd,

 

I wouldn't put one GFCI inline from the shore power.  It would need to be
large and expensive (2 pole, 30 amp) as you will end up running everything
through it including the heating element in the hot water heater and your
battery charger.  Also, many modern battery chargers may cause it to
nuisance trip frequently.

 

The GFCI in an outlet is cheap, effective and obvious if it trips as they
will usually have a small LED indicator on the face and only the circuit
that is tripped (and the outlets downstream) will go dead, not the whole
boat.  I think your boat has two breakers in the AC panel for the AC outlets
so you will only need two (or possibly three, depending on how the wire is
run) GFCI's to do the whole boat.

 

I think the level of safety these GFCI provide for very little money is
worth it.  I'm not sure how the ABYC requirement for all new boats is
written so I don't know if dong it this way will cover it.

 

Ken H.

 

As Dennis C. said:

 

Look at the GFCI receptacle you are installing.  It should have two pairs
of hot/common connections and one ground.  One pair will be labeled Line
and one pair Load.  The Load connections are protected.


The correct wiring should be from your supply (breaker) to the pair marked
Line.  Downstream receptacles should be wired from the Load pair.

Also, make sure you get the black (hot) and white (common or neutral) wires
on the correct connectors for all connections.

 

Dennis C.

 

On 1 April 2014 14:08, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

Listers,

 

Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I'm redoing the entire AC system of the
Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you listen
carefully, you'll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island this
weekend as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying to
snake wires.  

 

As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets or
last? Or does it not matter? 

 

Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power
instead? 

 

All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 

 


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Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Edd Schillay]

Listers,

Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I’m redoing the entire AC system of 
the Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you listen 
carefully, you’ll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island this weekend 
as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying to snake wires.
  

As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets 
or last? Or does it not matter? 

Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power 
instead? 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Joel Aronson]

Edd,

It has to be first to protect everything downstream.  A breaker will do the
same thing for more $$.

Good luck!

Joel
35/3
Annapolis.


On Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I'm redoing the entire AC system of the
 Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you listen
 carefully, you'll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island this
 weekend as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying to
 snake wires.

 As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets or
 last? Or does it not matter?

 Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power
 instead?


 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Dennis C.]

Edd,

Look at the receptacle.  It should have two pairs of hot/common connections
and one ground.  One pair will be labeled Line and one pair Load.  The
Load connections are protected.

The correct wiring should be from your supply (breaker) to the pair marked
Line.  Downstream receptacles should be wired from the Load pair.

Also, make sure you get the black (hot) and white (common or neutral) wires
on the correct connectors for all connections.

Dennis C.


On Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 12:08 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I'm redoing the entire AC system of the
 Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you listen
 carefully, you'll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island this
 weekend as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying to
 snake wires.

 As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets or
 last? Or does it not matter?

 Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power
 instead?


 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Edd Schillay]

Joel,

Thanks. Ultimately, is it necessary to have one? I’ve spent most of my 
life around boats and it seems to me that the GFCI outlet is a recent addition. 


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

On Apr 1, 2014, at 1:15 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Edd,
 
 It has to be first to protect everything downstream.  A breaker will do the 
 same thing for more $$.
 
 Good luck!
 
 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis.
 
 
 On Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:
 Listers,
 
   Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I’m redoing the entire AC system of 
 the Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you 
 listen carefully, you’ll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island 
 this weekend as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying to 
 snake wires.  
 
   As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets 
 or last? Or does it not matter? 
 
   Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power 
 instead? 
 
 
   All the best,
 
   Edd
 
 
   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY 
   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
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 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 ___
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Joel Aronson]

Edd,

It is now an ABYC requirement for all new boats, and surveyors will note
their presence/absence on resale.   An insurer might require them going
forward.

Necessary?  No.  My boat sails well without them!  Heck, I remember when
seat belts were not required in cars!

Joel


On Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 1:39 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Joel,

 Thanks. Ultimately, is it necessary to have one? I've spent most of my
 life around boats and it seems to me that the GFCI outlet is a recent
 addition.



 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/

 On Apr 1, 2014, at 1:15 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote:

 Edd,

 It has to be first to protect everything downstream.  A breaker will do
 the same thing for more $$.

 Good luck!

 Joel
 35/3
 Annapolis.


 On Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 1:08 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I'm redoing the entire AC system of
 the Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you
 listen carefully, you'll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island
 this weekend as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying
 to snake wires.

 As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets or
 last? Or does it not matter?

 Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power
 instead?


 All the best,

 Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com



 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com




-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Ken Heaton]

Hey Edd,

I wouldn't put one GFCI inline from the shore power.  It would need to be
large and expensive (2 pole, 30 amp) as you will end up
running everything through it including the heating element in the hot
water heater and your battery charger.  Also, many modern battery chargers
may cause it to nuisance trip frequently.

The GFCI in an outlet is cheap, effective and obvious if it trips as they
will usually have a small LED indicator on the face and only the circuit
that is tripped (and the outlets downstream) will go dead, not the whole
boat.  I think your boat has two breakers in the AC panel for the AC
outlets so you will only need two (or possibly three, depending on how the
wire is run) GFCI's to do the whole boat.

I think the level of safety these GFCI provide for very little money is
worth it.  I'm not sure how the ABYC requirement for all new boats is
written so I don't know if dong it this way will cover it.

Ken H.

As Dennis C. said:

Look at the GFCI receptacle you are installing.  It should have two pairs
of hot/common connections and one ground.  One pair will be labeled Line
and one pair Load.  The Load connections are protected.

The correct wiring should be from your supply (breaker) to the pair marked
Line.  Downstream receptacles should be wired from the Load pair.

Also, make sure you get the black (hot) and white (common or neutral) wires
on the correct connectors for all connections.

Dennis C.


On 1 April 2014 14:08, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote:

 Listers,

 Thanks to the wisdom of the group, I'm redoing the entire AC system of the
 Enterprise, including a switch from shore power to inverter. If you listen
 carefully, you'll hear a stream of cursing coming from City Island this
 weekend as I try to squeeze myself into yoga-expert positions trying to
 snake wires.

 As to a GFCI outlet, is it best to put it first in the line of outlets or
 last? Or does it not matter?

 Would it make sense to just install a GFCI inline from the shore power
 instead?


 All the best,

 Edd


  Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
  City Island, NY
  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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