Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

Thanks again for the comments.

I've got an order of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure on the way and
will use that as I tighten the bolts as most have suggested.

Looking forward to finishing these projects and begin sailing again --
might even try to make the Fla Randevu if it works out.

Fair Winds . . ..

Jim Hesketh
Whisper C&C 29
Coconut Grove, FL

On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 4:36 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a fellow competitor drift into me on a no-wind day and the tall bow
> of his large boat bent the toe rail, just forward of the joint between the
> two halves. I took it off – about 50 bolt/nut/washer combinations. A local
> shop put it on their 20x20 flat table and straightened it and I put it back
> on with a fresh strip of butyl. No leaks – It was not fun taking it off, as
> access is not the best (I found on a 30-1 if you take the shelves off in
> the Vee berth area, it is a lot easier). Put it back on – much easier and
> no leaks. I doubt you would need the 5200.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *James
> Hesketh via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 6, 2019 7:39 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* James Hesketh 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing
>
>
>
> Thank you all for the helpful responses.
>
>
>
> I did have extensive leaking from under the toerail when first getting the
> boat 5 years ago and mostly stopped it by running a bead of 5200 around the
> inner perimeter of the rail and figured that was a temporary fix. That 5200
> had now degraded and is cracking, I'm assuming due to UV exposure.
>
>
>
> My boat has been a Florida boat since new and I'm guessing the heat has
> had an affect on the deck/hull seal -- the original butyl sealant is
> weeping out and dripping down onto the inner hull (big mess); it would be
> an impossible job to remove the deck to replace. Don't know why I never
> thought to check the bolt tightness before it being mentioned in your
> replies; they are almost all finger-loose, I'm assuming because of the
> settling of the deck due to the loss of the original deck/hull sealant. I
> haven't seen any weeping of the sealant between the toerail and deck
>
>
>
> I'm currently prepping the boat for deck/cabin/cockpit painting and have
> all deck hardware removed and will re-bed when refitting -- now is the time
> to tackle this.
>
>
>
> I'm thinking now my options are to go with my original plan of total R&R
> of the rail -- or to pull the bolts a few at a time, work some fresh butyl
> into the hole and screw the bolt back in through the sealant, tighten them
> properly, and back that up with another bead of calk on the deck/rail if
> needed (and redo that every few years as needed).
>
>
>
> Thoughts . . .?
>
>
>
> Last year I rebuilt the kingpost support in the bilge, reinforced the
> bulkheads for the chain plates and did some deck repair where the chain
> plates went through, did some glass/gelcoat work around the fore hatch
> where it had deformed due to the mast step setteling, made a new main hatch
> slider and cockpit locker rails. I enjoy bringing her back to shape, but I
> do enjoy sailing more than working on her. I figure these projects will be
> good for another few decades.
>
>
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:21 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C&C toe
> rail design by 1988 or so:
>
>
>
>
> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no
>
>
>
> I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of
> the 'sandwich' in the older ones.
>
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.”
>
>
>
> The hull to deck joint and toe r

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I had a fellow competitor drift into me on a no-wind day and the tall bow of 
his large boat bent the toe rail, just forward of the joint between the two 
halves. I took it off – about 50 bolt/nut/washer combinations. A local shop put 
it on their 20x20 flat table and straightened it and I put it back on with a 
fresh strip of butyl. No leaks – It was not fun taking it off, as access is not 
the best (I found on a 30-1 if you take the shelves off in the Vee berth area, 
it is a lot easier). Put it back on – much easier and no leaks. I doubt you 
would need the 5200.

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of James Hesketh via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 7:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Hesketh 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

 

Thank you all for the helpful responses. 

 

I did have extensive leaking from under the toerail when first getting the boat 
5 years ago and mostly stopped it by running a bead of 5200 around the inner 
perimeter of the rail and figured that was a temporary fix. That 5200 had now 
degraded and is cracking, I'm assuming due to UV exposure. 

 

My boat has been a Florida boat since new and I'm guessing the heat has had an 
affect on the deck/hull seal -- the original butyl sealant is weeping out and 
dripping down onto the inner hull (big mess); it would be an impossible job to 
remove the deck to replace. Don't know why I never thought to check the bolt 
tightness before it being mentioned in your replies; they are almost all 
finger-loose, I'm assuming because of the settling of the deck due to the loss 
of the original deck/hull sealant. I haven't seen any weeping of the sealant 
between the toerail and deck

 

I'm currently prepping the boat for deck/cabin/cockpit painting and have all 
deck hardware removed and will re-bed when refitting -- now is the time to 
tackle this.

 

I'm thinking now my options are to go with my original plan of total R&R of the 
rail -- or to pull the bolts a few at a time, work some fresh butyl into the 
hole and screw the bolt back in through the sealant, tighten them properly, and 
back that up with another bead of calk on the deck/rail if needed (and redo 
that every few years as needed).

 

Thoughts . . .?

 

Last year I rebuilt the kingpost support in the bilge, reinforced the bulkheads 
for the chain plates and did some deck repair where the chain plates went 
through, did some glass/gelcoat work around the fore hatch where it had 
deformed due to the mast step setteling, made a new main hatch slider and 
cockpit locker rails. I enjoy bringing her back to shape, but I do enjoy 
sailing more than working on her. I figure these projects will be good for 
another few decades.

 

Thanks again,

Jim 

 

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 3:21 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C&C toe rail 
design by 1988 or so:

 

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no

 

I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of the 
'sandwich' in the older ones.

 

Ken H.

 

On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.”

 

The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well 
engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several  hundred of us on 
the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail or hull 
to deck join is near single digits.

 

Basically the joint (from bottom to  top) is as follows: Inward facing flange 
on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull flange, 
another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe rail, then it 
is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine screws. My 25 has screws 
every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”. Removing the bolts and toe rail 
can possibly compromise every layer of the seal.

 

If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website) you can 
see a cross section of the joint.

 

In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly be 
around the machine screw

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I have now tightened all toerail nuts except those in the anchor locker.
Yesterday, while helping my neighbour with his boat, I decided to let the
hose run down the inside of the toerail for a while. The only leaks evident
were from the windlass switches (sealed by PO with silicone) and the pulpit
bases, which have been re-sealed and do not appear to have butyl under
them. I will be tackling the bow section next. It is still possible that
leaks may occur from below when in rough seas (since that is when more
water appears in the bilge), but I now suspect that most if not all of that
water may be coming in from the bow fittings area. So I am hopeful that my
toerail is dry, and I don't really know if it was leaking before, but it
was certainly due for tightening. It took some time (like a day or two)
before I noticed fresh butyl oozing out from below, so don't expect to see
it right away.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 5:30 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Jim,
>
> As others have said, the "conventional wisdom" here on the list is NOT to
> pull the toe rail.  It is also the collective opinion that overtightening
> the bolts will squeeze out the original butyl which may result in leakage.
>
> Many of us have simply tightened, but not overtightened the fasteners.
> Some have removed the occasional troublesome fastener, added butyl and
> re-installed.
>
> I snugged up Touche's toe rail fasteners when I first bought the boat 20
> years ago.  Then I ran multiple beads of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack
> Cure down the inboard toe rail/deck interface.  It's a milky liquid which
> easily penetrates the joint then cures.
>
> When I first started, I put on 6-8 applications.  This can be done in a
> day or two since the stuff cures fairly quickly.
>
> Over the next few years, It was part of my spring maintenance to add a
> bead or two.  Now I do it every 2-3 years.  Touche's toe rail leakage is
> negligible.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Jim,

As others have said, the "conventional wisdom" here on the list is NOT to
pull the toe rail.  It is also the collective opinion that overtightening
the bolts will squeeze out the original butyl which may result in leakage.

Many of us have simply tightened, but not overtightened the fasteners.
Some have removed the occasional troublesome fastener, added butyl and
re-installed.

I snugged up Touche's toe rail fasteners when I first bought the boat 20
years ago.  Then I ran multiple beads of Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack
Cure down the inboard toe rail/deck interface.  It's a milky liquid which
easily penetrates the joint then cures.

When I first started, I put on 6-8 applications.  This can be done in a day
or two since the stuff cures fairly quickly.

Over the next few years, It was part of my spring maintenance to add a bead
or two.  Now I do it every 2-3 years.  Touche's toe rail leakage is
negligible.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
>>
>> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *James
>> Hesketh via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* James Hesketh 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
>> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
>> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>>
>>
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Jim Hesketh
>>
>> Whisper C&C 26
>>
>> Miami, FL
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

This link will take you (should take you?) to a drawing of the C&C toe rail
design by 1988 or so:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a9bOV0skefEUTFpVkv51NwlYdrABb80JetHmGGeftc-PldDJ8aKaUXnUIPBbrBcvKjmlAtasRO2pjwvuFYHGYx4faUPYxLb6qQKvCVHCGyOcywF-TyJZ-otqWTYyRzMHyhW1gk_lBUwtLo5fCWneDsjWlqD6CRnJeEtCCFBBWfZPJrW3jkKa9XDbHwUBggCBdoTwe-RNvX66kvPmOqKceLDKSV_EP5XOhOWoQXeUCz-0ScJ-4Gp1sjozsS9lz5eAhF-tD90yYrbGwq0_6XS4DWPtJt0uznrt_3tCzJeAawhBbv0Djih947M8tI9C8dQXyqBS8EgDMI4jNvyNOZall4nFT2yDac4lhxpMginaj4poGEBeEP7_fGdoX0b-5chgfu3vt8jKOjSZ-L7I4qmez7BPkMWMhvXErtwpQihxQBb7x072jjn6Qg5xoNwTqVhxAmQuvxDP7JsD9rudEEI4256eYKGqS8Xn9iFR15-TC5nEB9NKfDGpEP4dp56zvKKmjuyqLHjVI1XSV7MZ-0IPVevvkKoVeWhHOGo-9gj4mCrG5_vce1-l-5yDPNn_uqlobzzW4rvkBtpTRx7sopLHxAuN-eBIFRL-XK9Nbc5KiAeE1v7wGxD-yXd_Gq5SawAeb0MYBGaStF_TMeW6Ve6bdGP1dMUCJf0si24nNuPdBYqU5MJSH5LanQ=w805-h1057-no

I realise the older boats are a bit different as the Rub Rail is part of
the 'sandwich' in the older ones.

Ken H.

On Tue, 5 Nov 2019 at 14:34, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.”
>
>
>
> The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well
> engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several  hundred of
> us on the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail
> or hull to deck join is near single digits.
>
>
>
> Basically the joint (from bottom to  top) is as follows: Inward facing
> flange on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull
> flange, another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe
> rail, then it is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine
> screws. My 25 has screws every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”.
> Removing the bolts and toe rail can possibly compromise every layer of the
> seal.
>
>
>
> If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website)
> you can see a cross section of the joint.
>
>
>
> In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly
> be around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a
> full turn, and apply Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to the inside
> edge of the toe rail to deck joint.
>
>
>
> Tightening the bolts is a two man job – the person on top holds the screw
> in place so it does not turn (which breaks the seal of the butyl and can
> result in a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful
> not to overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of
> the joint.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
>
> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *James
> Hesketh via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* James Hesketh 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing
>
>
>
> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>
>
>
> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>
>
>
> TIA
>
> Jim Hesketh
>
> Whisper C&C 26
>
> Miami, FL
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I think you’ll find the consensus of advice to be “Don’t do it.”

 

The hull to deck joint and toe rail on the older C&Cs is a pretty well 
engineered setup that will last a lifetime. There are several  hundred of us on 
the list, and I suspect the number who have had leaks in the toe rail or hull 
to deck join is near single digits.

 

Basically the joint (from bottom to  top) is as follows: Inward facing flange 
on the hull, layer of butyl, rubber rub rail riveted to the hull flange, 
another layer of butyl, the deck, another layer of butyl, the toe rail, then it 
is all through bolted with stainless oval head machine screws. My 25 has screws 
every 6” (IIRC) and my 38 is bolted every 4”. Removing the bolts and toe rail 
can possibly compromise every layer of the seal.

 

If you have an owners’ manual (or buy one from the Photo Album website) you can 
see a cross section of the joint.

 

In almost all cases the recommended fix for a leak (which seem to mostly be 
around the machine screws) is to tighten the through bolts about ½ to a full 
turn, and apply Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to the inside edge of the 
toe rail to deck joint. 

 

Tightening the bolts is a two man job – the person on top holds the screw in 
place so it does not turn (which breaks the seal of the butyl and can result in 
a leak) while the person below tightens the nut a bit. Be careful not to 
overtighten the nut because you can squeeze all of the butyl out of the joint.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47

la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James 
Hesketh via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 7:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: James Hesketh 
Subject: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

 

I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will also do 
the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can tie off the 
headsail halyard to it.  

 

Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin? 

 

TIA

Jim Hesketh

Whisper C&C 26

Miami, FL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I should also add that the two screws I did remove were very well stuck
with butyl tape around the threads, which was soft and gooey, so I am
confident that the tape will do its job once tightened again. I haven't
confirmed it was leaking, but some bolts showed signs of rust, and those
were often the ones which were seized.
Also, it appears the white rub rail flange is held onto the hull flange
with small rivets every few feet. There was no sign of leaks at these
rivets. It is hard to tell if there is butyl tape on both sides of the
white rub rail flange; it may only be on the top.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 7:00 AM Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I wouldn't. If you have leaks I would recommend just removing the bolts
> one at a time and embedding them with butyl tape.
>
> Jeff
> Caposhi
> '71 C&C 35 mk 1
>
> On Tue., Nov. 5, 2019, 7:53 a.m. James Hesketh via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
>> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
>> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>>
>> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>>
>> TIA
>> Jim Hesketh
>> Whisper C&C 26
>> Miami, FL
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

I wouldn't. If you have leaks I would recommend just removing the bolts one
at a time and embedding them with butyl tape.

Jeff
Caposhi
'71 C&C 35 mk 1

On Tue., Nov. 5, 2019, 7:53 a.m. James Hesketh via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>
> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>
> TIA
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C&C 26
> Miami, FL
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I am almost done tightening the toerail nuts on my 35-2. I have been doing
it mostly alone from below, using a wrench and a flashlight. I start to
tighten the nut while watching the screw threads carefully for movement, If
they don't move, I tighten until snug with a small wrench or 1/4" drive
socket where wrench access was awkward. I had all but one of the port side
work this way, and all but about 10 on the starboard side tighten without
moving the machine screw at all. As soon as movement is detected, I marked
the spot with tape and moved on, coming back with a helper to hold the
screw from above.

In one case, the threads had galled and I had to jam a wrench into place
below, then use a 3/8" ratchet and philips bit to remove the screw, chase
threads with a tap/die, and re-insert with new butyl on the screw. One
screw at the aft end of the toerail was at an extreme angle so I re-drilled
to allow it to sit straight. I still have the anchor locker to complete,
and will run a hose over everything when I'm done.  I also tightened
anything else as I went along - stanchions, cleats, genoa track. etc.

Most toe rail nuts would take about 1/2 to 1 full turn before being tight
with a small wrench.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 5:34 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don’t know what type of a toe-rail that a 26’ has but FWIW, I am currently
> re-bedding all of my deck hardware with the exception of the toe-rail. I am
> using butyl tape for all applications except where silicone based sealant
> is called for, i.e., the Beckson opening ports in the main cabin. My
> opinion about the use of butyl by C&C is that it was a smart move. When I
> was pulling all the deck hardware, wherever butyl was used the core was dry
> and clean. No leaks. Wherever I had added new hardware and used a 3M or
> Sikaflex product, there was ultimately leakage. Now, much of that may have
> been due to my less than perfect application techniques.
>
> On the 37’ the aluminum toe-rail is bedded with butyl.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Nov 5, 2019, at 7:52 AM, James Hesketh via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>
> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>
> TIA
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C&C 26
> Miami, FL
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Don’t know what type of a toe-rail that a 26’ has but FWIW, I am currently 
re-bedding all of my deck hardware with the exception of the toe-rail. I am 
using butyl tape for all applications except where silicone based sealant is 
called for, i.e., the Beckson opening ports in the main cabin. My opinion about 
the use of butyl by C&C is that it was a smart move. When I was pulling all the 
deck hardware, wherever butyl was used the core was dry and clean. No leaks. 
Wherever I had added new hardware and used a 3M or Sikaflex product, there was 
ultimately leakage. Now, much of that may have been due to my less than perfect 
application techniques.

On the 37’ the aluminum toe-rail is bedded with butyl.

Hope that helps.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 7:52 AM, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will also 
> do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can tie 
> off the headsail halyard to it.  
> 
> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin? 
> 
> TIA
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C&C 26
> Miami, FL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

If you haven’t already tried maybe tighten the many bolts that hold the toe
rail on. The butyl tape between it and the hull may be thick enough to take
some tightening. Also apply a few drops of Captain Tolleys creeping crack
filler to the head of each bolt and along the inside edge of the toe rail
at the deck. You will need someone inside with a wrench to turn the nut and
someone outside with a tool to holt the head of the bolt steady whatever
you choose to do.

On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 8:53 AM James Hesketh via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>
> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>
> TIA
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C&C 26
> Miami, FL
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
tie off the headsail halyard to it.

Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?

TIA
Jim Hesketh
Whisper C&C 26
Miami, FL
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