Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts

[Joe Pyles]

I received the Fender knobs today and they fit the MN2700. They were 
a little tight when I first pushed them on but they went on and look 
fine. They don't look exactly like the originals but they're much 
better than the bare switch. I have an early and a late MN2700 and 
the knobs are different so I'm guessing Drake used what they could get.


73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 10:42 AM 10/1/2018, Joe Pyles wrote:
Fender Telecaster guitars have a similar switch to choose different 
pickups and the knob looks like it would fit the Drake tuners. The 
part number is 099-4936-000. I have ordered a few to see if they 
will fit. If you search the Fender part number several places sell 
the switch caps. I should get them any day from The Guitar Center 
and will let you know if they fit the tuner switches.


73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD


At 02:44 PM 9/30/2018, Evert Bakker wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0048_01D458FE.51AB5F30"
Content-Language: nl

Hello,

I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
But even time cracks quality.
The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?

73's, Evert PA2KW
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Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 knobs

[Joe Pyles]

The knobs that are needed are the ones on the reactive and resistive 
levers under the large knobs on the MN2700. Those switches are rotary 
switches that are mounted horizontally and have a flat lever that 
goes through the front panel.


73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 04:24 PM 10/2/2018, Barnhart David wrote:
Are the MN2700 knobs the same as used on the MN-2000?  If so I have 
a donor MN-2000 with everything except the bandswitch knob.  Let me 
know if what I have will work for you.


73
Dave Barnhart
K7RPM


> On Oct 1, 2018, at 9:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:
>
> Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>   drakelist@zerobeat.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>   http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
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> You can reach the person managing the list at
>   drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Spare parts (Evert Bakker)
>   2. Drake 1A (Dale Parfitt)
>   3. Re: Spare parts (Jim Shorney)
>   4. Re: Spare parts (Joe Pyles)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200
> From: "Evert Bakker" 
> To: 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: <004701d458ed$8e185600$aa490200$@pa2kw.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
>
> But even time cracks quality.
>
> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>
> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>
>
>
> 73's, Evert PA2KW
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
<http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20180930/5c2107c8/attachment-0001.html>

>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 15:28:10 -0400
> From: "Dale Parfitt" 
> To: 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 1A
> Message-ID: <039501d458f3$b9811a10$2c834e30$@frontier.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have a beautiful 1A that I am selling. After restoration,  one of the
> nicest I have seen. Powder coated  cabinet, polished aluminum front piece,
> modern  grounded power cord.  Has the calibrator, print of the manual. Any
> serious offers considered.
>
> http://www.parelectronics.com/vintage-drake-1a.php
>
> Dale W4OP
>
>
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
<http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20180930/ec9f452b/attachment-0001.html>

>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 18:34:21 -0500
> From: "Jim Shorney" 
> To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: <20180930233424.8259840...@mail02.inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> You probably won't find any unless someone has a parts donor unit. You will
> either have to fabricate your own, or pehaps an eBay searcy for 
"lever knob"
> under Consumer Electronics will turn up something from home audio 
units that
> will work. I see several from Pioneer, Sony, Craig, etc., that 
look promising.

> They won't be black though
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
> NU0C
>
>
> On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200, Evert Bakker wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>>
>>
>> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
>>
>> But even time cracks quality.
>>
>> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>>
>> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>>
>>
>>
>> 73's, Evert PA2KW
>>
>>
>
> --
> The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. 
Safe is relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"

>
>
>
>
>
> ----------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2018 10:42:15 -0400
> From: Joe Pyles 
> To: "Evert Bakker" ,
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Fender Telecaster guitars have a similar switch to choose different
> pickups and the knob l

Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts

[Joe Pyles]

Fender Telecaster guitars have a similar switch to choose different 
pickups and the knob looks like it would fit the Drake tuners. The 
part number is 099-4936-000. I have ordered a few to see if they will 
fit. If you search the Fender part number several places sell the 
switch caps. I should get them any day from The Guitar Center and 
will let you know if they fit the tuner switches.


73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD


At 02:44 PM 9/30/2018, Evert Bakker wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0048_01D458FE.51AB5F30"
Content-Language: nl

Hello,

I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
But even time cracks quality.
The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?

73's, Evert PA2KW
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Re: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. Recommendations?

[Joe Pyles]

Actually the noise blanker is very helpful. I live in a fairly rural 
area and the lightning arresters on the power poles will sometimes 
fail and when one does I might have a 20 over 9 noise level.
the TR7 blanker will knock out the noise. When people talk I can 
still hear the noise on their signal, but without the blanker the 
radio would be fairly worthless.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 08:07 PM 3/22/2013, you wrote:

Tom,

Welcome home.

As an owner of the TR-7 for 30 years, I can testify to what a great 
rig they are.


I'd highly recommend looking for a TR-7 with a "3 piece" back 
panel.  That signifies a later version that will have the minor 
improvements that were made over the years.  The A model, as 
previously recommended, would of course have all of the 
improvements, a noise blanker and a CW filter (unless they were 
removed by a prior owner).  Unfortunately, the A model typically 
commands a much higher price due to its collectability.


As to accessories, the noise blanker is now fairly worthless.  It 
was designed for the Russian Woodpecker, and did a great job.  But 
it doesn't do a great job on atmospheric noises.  Accessory filters 
are readily available for the TR-7 at around $40 each.  So if you 
find a rig without the filters, it isn't that great a problem.


73
Lee WB6SSW

In a message dated 3/22/2013 2:43:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
tbran...@alvincollege.edu writes:



Good afternoon everyone,

After a long absence from ham radio I am excited about re-entering 
the hobby and I am interested in acquiring a TR-7.  It was my dream 
radio when career took me away from the hobby.


Any words of wisdom you may have about the TR-7 would be most welcome.
Is there anything I should particularly look for in a potential 
purchase? Any thoughts
on what a TR-7 and power supply in good condition would cost? There 
is what appears to be a very nice one listed on EBay at

the moment.

Thanks and 73's

Tom
Ex WD5DFE




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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 digital readout

[Joe Pyles]

Adjust L1001 on the PBT/Reference board to put the 40 mhz oscillator 
back on frequency. The 40 Mhz oscillator provides
the 500 khz reference for the DR7 board. the 40 mhz crystal tends to 
drift more than the other two crystals on the PBT/Reference board.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 05:37 PM 12/23/2012, you wrote:
My TR-7 digital readout is off by 100 hz. Can anyone tell me how to 
correct it?


I appreciate any and all help.

James Wilson
N5DBS


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Re: [Drakelist] is Drake closing?

[Joe Pyles]

No, just moving.

http://www.rldrake.com/news-20120814.php

At 07:42 PM 8/20/2012, you wrote:

http://www.thompsonauctioneers.com/R-L-Drake-Holdings-LLC-a186041.php

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Re: [Drakelist] RV75 MSRP

[Joe Pyles]

I have a 1982 German price for the RV75 it was 998.00 DM. About 
400.00 US in 1982.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 12:22 PM 8/8/2012, you wrote:
Has anyone on the list ever seen the original selling price (MSRP) 
for the RV75 Remote VFO? None of the price lists at WB4HFN's website 
shows the item.


Just curious and want to compare MSRP with what ePay sellers are 
getting for the very rare units.


73,

Bob K9JU

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Re: [Drakelist] Test

[Joe Pyles]

Last night I tried to have the drakelist send me my password again 
and it came through in seconds.
The option for mail delivery was disabled, I enabled it and I have 
started getting messages again.


Thanks, 73, Joe KC9LAD

At 11:53 AM 3/5/2012, you wrote:

Joe -

Hmmm.  Have you checked your 'Junk' file or other virus software 
'problem' receptacle?


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Joe Pyles wrote:
I haven't received any messages since 2/22/12. I know there are new 
messages since then because I looked on
the drakelist web site. Even the test message I sent didn't show up 
in my email. I tried to rejoin the drakelist and got no response.
I clicked the password reminder button several days in a row and it 
said it was emailing me the reminder but once again I received nothing.
You are the only hint that I'm getting anywhere. If you can help I 
would appreciate it.


73 Joe KC9LAD



At 09:02 AM 3/4/2012, you wrote:

Hi Joe -

The reflector is working, it's just that everyone seems to have 
been over on drakera...@yahoo.com the last few days.  I think 
about 95% of Drakelist members are members over there, so it just 
depends upon where a thread starts.  You really need to subscribe 
to both to see ALL the Drake stuff!  :-)


Next week it'll be over on Drakelist...

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
http://www.k4oah.com/> >


Joe Pyles wrote:

Test


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[Drakelist] Test

[Joe Pyles]

Test


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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 ALC access when not using PS7

[Joe Pyles]

You need a Cinch-Jones S-310 CCT plug and connect the shield of the 
alc cable to pin 10. Connect the center to pin 9.

Plug into the matching 10 pin PS7 socket on the rear of the TR7.

73, Joe KC9LAD

At 07:41 AM 1/28/2012, you wrote:
I am sure that are at least a few folks who are using the TR7 with a 
power supply other than the PS7.  And I am thinking of those some 
are using linears.


So where and how did you gain access to the ALC line of the TR7?

TNX es 73,
Ron WD8SBB

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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Joe Pyles]

I use NTE229 to replace the MPSH20 on the predriver board and they work fine.

73, Joe KC9LAD

At 06:57 PM 12/20/2011, you wrote:
Sorry about that, I sent the e-mail before I was done typing. Does 
anyone have source for an MPS-H20. It looks like they aren't 
available. I found a reference to it on the Drake mods
document. The guy says he replaces them with MRF237 because it can 
handle a little extra power. Apparently, he thinks the TO-92 package 
was border line undersized for .3 watts.
Maybe that's why mine is going south (I've been running digital 
modes). I found these MRF237s on Ebay for 8 bucks (stick'em up). 
I'll pay it if I have to. Any thoughts?



Bob  K6GGO

Well, it seems that the first transistor on the driver board is the 
culprit. Or, at least, when the transmitter fails, that is where 
the RF stops. It is a Motorola MPS-H20

I found the schematic on Ron's site. Thanks Lee.

Bob  K6GGO

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I thought to do was 
re-seat the boards and I did. Well, I didn't re-seat the ones 
that were hidden under
the display board (DR-7).  I'll take it apart and re-seat them if 
I have to, but, I think I have isolated the problem to the 
pre-driver board and it
doesn't plug into anything. It is bolted to a heatsink next to 
the PA. When it is in a failed condition, I have RF going into, 
but not out of, the pre-driver board.


Thanks for the offer, but I already have a set of extender boards.

I will find the problem eventually , I just need a schematic. I 
will take another look at Ron's site.


Thanks again,

Bob  K6GGO






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Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7 Mystery Diode CR1?

[Joe Pyles]

The diode is on the back of the af gain rf gain on off switch pot.

73, Joe KC9LAD

At 12:05 AM 12/13/2011, you wrote:

On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 23:43:16 -0500 (EST), scpmil...@aol.com wrote:

> My Service Manual shows a diode CR1 across the + 12 volt line (I 
guess this is reverse polarity protection) but save for the block 
diagram in the manual I cannot find another reference to this diode 
and wonder where in the heck it is?  Any body ever seen the darn thing?



If the parent board schematic on page 2-5 of the service manual is 
accurate, it

should be between the power switch and the fuse on the right side panel. Might
be on the back of the power switch, or nearby. It would seem like it should be
on the other side of the fuse, but I guess they are relying on external fusing
for protection.

It's listed on the parts list on page 2-3 an an MR501, which is a pretty hefty
diode. Check the internal fuse, if it is blown the radio will appear 
completely

dead. PIN diodes don't kill the entire radio. It's amazing how much stuff is
blamed on the PIN diodes, they are like the George Bush of TR-7s.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to 
Google, and he will learn for a lifetime."


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7-A Antenna Relay

[Joe Pyles]

Digikey has them.

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/752107-relay-gp-3a-4pdt-12vdc-r10-e1y4-v185.html

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 08:08 AM 11/5/2011, you wrote:

Fellow:

I need an Antenna Relay Part # R10-E4-Y4-V185 made by Potter & 
Brumfield.  It is plug in and has 4 poles.


Thanks,

Randall Murphree,
W4DEU


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Re: [Drakelist] A dumb ? maybe TR-7 case color

[Joe Pyles]

The color of the TR7 case both sticky paint and vinyl clad was dark 
gray. Some time after the production of ham radios was stopped,

Drake made replacement cases for the 7 line that were black vinyl clad.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 04:34 PM 10/27/2011, you wrote:
Probably will decrease the desirability somewhat.  They are not 
black but a dark brown.


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Re: [Drakelist] Unidentified Part

[Joe Pyles]

It looks like the ground contact for the low pass filter board.
here is a picture. The ground strap is in the lower left in the picture.
It's kind of fuzzy but you can see it.

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeEquipmentPictures/Equip_TR7_Bottom.htm

73 Joe, KC9LAD.


At 07:46 PM 10/22/2011, you wrote:

From: Larry Gadallah 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Unidentified Part

Hi all:

The last time I had the covers off of my TR-7A, this part fell out
(it's lying across a standard business card, for scale). It looks like
some kind of spring contact. Can anyone identify it?


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Re: [Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation

[Joe Pyles]

It's not just the PTO in the TR7 that drifts. On the PBT/Reference 
board the are 3 crystal oscillators, 40 mhz, 13.695 mhz, and 8.050 
mhz, and they all move around with temperature. The 40 mhz crystal 
moves the most and it not only is part of the synthesizer, it 
provides the 500 khz reference for the DR7 board. When you install 
the X-Lock you control the PTO drift but not the crystals.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 08:27 PM 7/24/2011, you wrote:

Jim,
My observations on the TR7's PTO is that if the ambient room 
temperature is around 70 F, the PTO is quite stable after initial 
warm up.  If on the other hand the house temperature is something 
other than 70 F the thing wants to go all over the place and never 
really settles down. Oh, I do have the FA-7, and it was used during 
the above observations.


The X-lock was the absolute best time and $$ investment that I put 
into my TR7.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Sun, 7/24/11, Jim Shorney  wrote:

> From: Jim Shorney 
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation
> To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
> Date: Sunday, July 24, 2011, 1:42 PM
> On Sun, 24 Jul 2011 11:28:34 -0400,
> Curt Nixon wrote:
>
> >The TR-7 is not as good.  I might re-direct the
> x-lock to the TR-7 this
> >winter.  I also really like the meter
> treatment.  Nice write-up, thanks.
>
> I think the TR-7 is more prone to thermal drift from
> temperature variations
> over transmit-receive cycles. My tests have shown that
> adding an FA-7 (or
> equivalent) fan, properly oriented to pull air out of the
> radio, helps with
> this. Running on an RV-7 also helps. My TR-7 drifted more
> than it should have
> before I opened up the PTO and checked things over in
> there. It's been long
> enough ago that I don't remember, but I imagine I probably
> touched up some
> solder joints. I'm really picky that way... :)
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
>
>
> --
> Ham Radio NU0C
> Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
> TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A,
> R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage,
> all the time!
>
> "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him
> to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime."
>
> HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
> http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
> http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Round 1

[Joe Pyles]

The dumbbell capacitor in mine was across the coil in the PTO can. 
The capacitor is a small, tubular, and white, with colored markings 
on it. The wire leads are wrapped around the ends of

the tube and it looks like a small dumbbell.

Joe KC9LAD




Hi Joe,

Are you referring to one of the silver mica capacitors in your 
reference to "dumb bell" cap, or a bypass / disc ceramic capacitor...?


Also, was this cap right inside of the PTO can itself, on the PTO 
circuit board...?


I'm very seriously contemplating swapping-out ALL of the discreet 
components in the oscillator portion of the PTO of my T4X (I'll 
leave the parts in the buffer stage alone)---I guess this is called 
the "shotgun" approach, but I was just oh-so-very frustrated the 
other day when the frequency started to act "squirrely" again in 
that T4X of mine that I began to think the "...unthinkable", i.e. 
take my Icom 751A transceiver with me to future junkets to the 
summer cottage, & leave the Drake Twins behind...!!!


~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ


*********


On 2011-07-04, at 6:32 PM, Joe Pyles wrote:

I have a TR-4CW /w//rit when I got it the PTO would jump in 
frequency after the radio got hot. After removing and installing 
the PTO several times I found that one of the dumbbell ceramic 
capacitors had a hairline crack
and as it heated it would become intermittent. I replaced the cap 
and have had no problems since.


Joe KC9LAD

At 05:29 PM 7/4/2011, you wrote:

Steve,

No doubt others with more experience will jump in.  I've recently 
pulled more than a half-dozen PTOs in the last week.  The first 
one takes a bit of time to think through but the info on WB4HFN's 
website is excellent.  After the first trial, subsequent removal 
of the whole assembly with dials can be performed in about 5 
minutes.  I found that with the PTO sitting on a bench, and 
interconnected with RG-174, I could much more accurately analyze 
problems and performs maintenance on the units.  Removal of the 
entire PTO is a "must" if you want to inspect the bottom of the 
PTO's circuit board.  I have an angled dental mirror but it's no 
substitute for PTO removal.


Anyway, once the PTO is out, you should be able to confidently and 
easily determine whether the problem is electrical or 
mechanical.  The Zener helps to stabilize line voltage 
variations.  If the PTO is "jumping," I would think it may be a 
mechanical problem -- or perhaps the issue where the PTO "braid 
fix" will help.   Either way, I would try to pull the PTO and at 
the same time, perform maintenance on the bearings, clean the 
dials, etc as long as it's open and accessible.


Paul, W9AC


- Original Message -
From: <mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>Steve Wedge
To: <mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net>drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 3:33 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Round 1

I finally pulled my R-4A out of its place on my operating desk and 
got the covers off.  As I was undoing the nuts in preparation for 
PTO removal, I noticed that there was a 10V zener on the small 
board that the wires from the PTO connect.  I also noticed that 
one end was broken but still touching its connection.


A couple of things come to mind.  First, the schematic and 
comments I've heard from others on this list strongly suggest that 
the zener should be inside the enclosure.  Second, if that's true, 
then a previous owner tried to correct my "frequency-jumping" 
problem by installing the zener externally to the enclosure to 
avoid the extra work.  Could it be possible that the zener inside 
the enclosure is still behaving erratically and intermittently 
conducting at some voltage below that of the external zener?  I 
haven't pulled the receiver back off the desk (arh...) yet and 
wanted to get a general opinion.


Am I right in assuming that this zener - which was installed on 
the back-side of the little board - was added on?


Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Round 1

[Joe Pyles]

I have a TR-4CW /w//rit when I got it the PTO would jump in frequency 
after the radio got hot. After removing and installing the PTO 
several times I found that one of the dumbbell ceramic capacitors had 
a hairline crack
and as it heated it would become intermittent. I replaced the cap and 
have had no problems since.


Joe KC9LAD

At 05:29 PM 7/4/2011, you wrote:

Steve,

No doubt others with more experience will jump in.  I've recently 
pulled more than a half-dozen PTOs in the last week.  The first one 
takes a bit of time to think through but the info on WB4HFN's 
website is excellent.  After the first trial, subsequent removal of 
the whole assembly with dials can be performed in about 5 
minutes.  I found that with the PTO sitting on a bench, and 
interconnected with RG-174, I could much more accurately analyze 
problems and performs maintenance on the units.  Removal of the 
entire PTO is a "must" if you want to inspect the bottom of the 
PTO's circuit board.  I have an angled dental mirror but it's no 
substitute for PTO removal.


Anyway, once the PTO is out, you should be able to confidently and 
easily determine whether the problem is electrical or 
mechanical.  The Zener helps to stabilize line voltage 
variations.  If the PTO is "jumping," I would think it may be a 
mechanical problem -- or perhaps the issue where the PTO "braid fix" 
will help.   Either way, I would try to pull the PTO and at the same 
time, perform maintenance on the bearings, clean the dials, etc as 
long as it's open and accessible.


Paul, W9AC


- Original Message -
From: Steve Wedge
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Monday, July 04, 2011 3:33 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Round 1

I finally pulled my R-4A out of its place on my operating desk and 
got the covers off.  As I was undoing the nuts in preparation for 
PTO removal, I noticed that there was a 10V zener on the small board 
that the wires from the PTO connect.  I also noticed that one end 
was broken but still touching its connection.


A couple of things come to mind.  First, the schematic and comments 
I've heard from others on this list strongly suggest that the zener 
should be inside the enclosure.  Second, if that's true, then a 
previous owner tried to correct my "frequency-jumping" problem by 
installing the zener externally to the enclosure to avoid the extra 
work.  Could it be possible that the zener inside the enclosure is 
still behaving erratically and intermittently conducting at some 
voltage below that of the external zener?  I haven't pulled the 
receiver back off the desk (arh...) yet and wanted to get a 
general opinion.


Am I right in assuming that this zener - which was installed on the 
back-side of the little board - was added on?


Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!


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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,RE: Blue Foil Filters

[Joe Pyles]

Yes the red numbers show up fine. The color is very close to the way 
it looks with #53 bulbs.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 04:01 PM 4/17/2011, you wrote:

On Sun, 17 Apr 2011 15:24:53 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote:

>the bulbs I use are from SuperBrightLEDs.com part no. Warm White BA9s-WWHP6.

Interesting. How does the S-Meter look? Does the red numbering show up?

73

-Jim


--
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Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to 
Google, and he will learn for a lifetime."


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,RE: Blue Foil Filters

[Joe Pyles]

I searched for a long time for led replacements for the #53 bulbs
that would give the Drake blue color and not look purple or intense 
blue. Here's what I came up with
and you can't tell it doesn't have the #53 bulbs in it except I don't 
have to remove the DR7 board every
other month to replace the bulb. the bulbs I use are from 
SuperBrightLEDs.com part no. Warm White BA9s-WWHP6.
I then added a 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the hot lead 
on the bulb to dim it a little.
The bulbs are a BA9 base so they go right in. If the stock blue gels 
are ok then the color is the same as with
the #53 bulbs. If the gel is faded I use #854 Roscolene Steel Blue. 
If you hold this and the stock Drake blue
gel up to light you can't tell any difference. Now the TR7 looks like 
a Drake with the proper color of blue
and the LEDs should last in excess of 100,000 hours instead of 1000 
hours for the #53 bulb. The LEDs also draw
a lot less current and don't heat up the PTO. The red numbers on the 
s-meter show up fine.


73, Joe KC9LAD


At 10:10 AM 4/17/2011, you wrote:

Jim,
I have both blue and red LEDs on my TR7 s-meter.  Kind of works, but 
leaves a red "blush" on the meter that makes the blue look 
strange.  "White" LEDs and blue filter didn't do so good for me 
either.  The B-line has less issue with only the pointer being red.


I would be interested in hearing others' experiences in trying to 
recover the TR7 s-meter red with LED "bulb" replacements.


73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Sat, 4/16/11, Jim Shorney  wrote:

From: Jim Shorney 
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest,RE: Blue Foil Filters
To: "drakel...@.zerobeat.net" 
Date: Saturday, April 16, 2011, 12:04 PM

On Sat, 16 Apr 2011 11:14:53 -0400, Mike Williams wrote:

> I changed my 4C and 7 line to
>these LED kits and they look great, generate less heat and consume 
much less

>power.  I purchased the kits on line and they were very reasonable, try a
>search and you will find the supplier

Or, you can build your own:

http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/blue.html

There is a list of kit suppliers at the bottom of the page as well. In
retrospect, I may try retrofitting a small red LED to my creation to bring out
the red highlights in the S-Meter. The monochromtic blue LEDs obliterate the
red color completely.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A,
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/

http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org





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Re: [Drakelist] The X-Lock for the TR-7

[Joe Pyles]

I bought an RV75 several years ago to stop drifting. It works very 
well. But I installed Conny's DAFC in both of my TR7As and seldom 
use the RV75 any more. I use it for split but thats about it.
  With the DAFC I can turn on the TR7A and immediately begin using 
it with no drift . The modification is completely reversible so if 
you want to make the radio back to original no one
  would ever know it's been there. By the way the installation is 
far from "open heart surgery" you don't even have remove the top 
cover just the bottom plate, solder 4 wires and 2 coax
  cables and your done. You don't have align anything just put the 
bottom cover back on and use the radio the same as always except no drift.


  73 Joe KC9LAD




Tom,

I did a bit of research on huff-puff stabilizers a month or so back 
and the one that seems to be preferred for the TR7 is DL1SDQ's 
"Digital Automatic Frequency Control."  It's about $114.  Info on it 
can be found at http://www.conny-dl1sdq.de


Incidentally, after a good bit of research on the subject, I decided 
to not make any changes to my TR7.  It is what it is and I thought 
I'd leave it that way.  The best stability solution without doing 
open heart surgery on it is probably to get an RV-75 although 
they're a bit scarce and when you do find one, it's likely be a bit 
on the pricey side.


73,
Tony
K4KYO


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Re: [Drakelist] TR7A no AM modulation

[Joe Pyles]

You do not need the AM filter to transmit AM. It does not matter what 
mode you transmit in, on a TR7 it always uses the 2.3khz sideband filter.

When you transmit AM,  you transmit carrier plus upper sideband (A3-H).

73 Joe KC9LAD

At 03:49 PM 1/8/2011, you wrote:


On Jan 8, 2011, at 10:38 PM, Demis Bertoni wrote:


Hi All,
I have buyed on ebay a TR7A in good condition, but not functioning
the AM modulation. LSB and USB no problem. I have replaced the
transmit exciter board without result...
Do you have a solution to this problem?


I have not owned a TR-7 in 14 years, so I may be wrong, but:

Does it actually have an AM filter in the IF? (6kHz).

The TR-7 would not transmit nor receive AM without the filter. Someone
figured out that a simple
resistor in place of the filter would make AM reception possible (but
not as good as with the
filter). The "mod" was incorporated by Drake in the TR-7a, giving all
of them AM reception.

However, you still need the filter to transmit.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson,  N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.









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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Drift

[Joe Pyles]

That document shows how to build buffer amplifiers so you can install 
a DAFC in a TR7 and an RV7 at the same time.
I provided Conny's web page translated because it has contact 
information in case someone wanted to buy a DAFC from him.

If you email him he will tell you the current price and he even takes Paypal.

73, Joe KC9LAD

At 03:10 PM 1/3/2011, you wrote:

Won't this English document work just as well?

http://www.dl7maj.de/DAFC-deLuxe_en.pdf


>>>
From:   Joe Pyles 
To: 
Date:   1/1/2011 6:14 PM
Subject:Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Drift

I have 2 TR7As both with Conny's DAFCs in them and you can turn them
on cold and immediately begin talking and they don't drift.
I also have 2 TR7s both with Cumbria Designs X-lock in them and they
are also as stable as the TR7As.
The X-lock required me to make a diode resistor network to interface
it to the rit line.
The DAFCs are easier to install as everything you need comes with it
for the TR7.

This will translate Conny's web page to english:

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fconny-dl1sdq.de%2F1312.html&sl=de&tl=en&hl=&ie=UTF-8 



At 05:50 PM 1/1/2011, you wrote:
>Have a look on this german pages where a TR7 and a RV7 are to be
>equipped with
>a DAFC each. May be it helps a bit...
>
>http://www.dl7maj.de/DAFC-deLuxe_dt.pdf
>
>73 de Karl, DK7AL
>
>Am 01.01.2011, um 23:00:01 schrieb Jim Shorney:
> > On Sat, 01 Jan 2011 13:49:51 -0500, Richard A. (Tony) Stalls wrote:
> > >My TR7 drifts around 100-150 Hz PTO during the first hour.  After
> > >that it calms down a bit, but it still drifts.  I've come up with a
> > >couple of potential solutions, but to be truthful, I don't know
> > >enough to competently decide if they're what I want.
> >
> > Do you have the optional fan on the radio? The fan, properly oriented to
> > pull air OUT, will help keep the temperature around the PTO more stable
> > through TX/RX cycles.
> >
> > >Does anybody have any experience with either of these huff-puff
> > >stabilizers, or is there a better way?  How about for the RV7?
> >
> > If I understand the application of these gadgets, you would 
need one inthe

> > RV-7 too.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > -Jim
> >
> >
> > --
> > Ham Radio NU0C
> > Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
> > TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
> > GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
> >
> > "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to 
Google, and

> > he will learn for a lifetime."
> >
> > HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
> > http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
> > http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Drift

[Joe Pyles]

I have 2 TR7As both with Conny's DAFCs in them and you can turn them 
on cold and immediately begin talking and they don't drift.
I also have 2 TR7s both with Cumbria Designs X-lock in them and they 
are also as stable as the TR7As.
The X-lock required me to make a diode resistor network to interface 
it to the rit line.
The DAFCs are easier to install as everything you need comes with it 
for the TR7.


This will translate Conny's web page to english:

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fconny-dl1sdq.de%2F1312.html&sl=de&tl=en&hl=&ie=UTF-8

At 05:50 PM 1/1/2011, you wrote:
Have a look on this german pages where a TR7 and a RV7 are to be 
equipped with

a DAFC each. May be it helps a bit...

http://www.dl7maj.de/DAFC-deLuxe_dt.pdf

73 de Karl, DK7AL

Am 01.01.2011, um 23:00:01 schrieb Jim Shorney:
> On Sat, 01 Jan 2011 13:49:51 -0500, Richard A. (Tony) Stalls wrote:
> >My TR7 drifts around 100-150 Hz PTO during the first hour.  After
> >that it calms down a bit, but it still drifts.  I've come up with a
> >couple of potential solutions, but to be truthful, I don't know
> >enough to competently decide if they're what I want.
>
> Do you have the optional fan on the radio? The fan, properly oriented to
> pull air OUT, will help keep the temperature around the PTO more stable
> through TX/RX cycles.
>
> >Does anybody have any experience with either of these huff-puff
> >stabilizers, or is there a better way?  How about for the RV7?
>
> If I understand the application of these gadgets, you would need one inthe
> RV-7 too.
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
>
>
> --
> Ham Radio NU0C
> Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
> TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
> GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
>
> "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
> he will learn for a lifetime."
>
> HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
> http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
> http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
>
>
>
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake Cabinet painting

[Joe Pyles]

Lacquer thinner will take a sticky paint case down to the metal.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 05:26 PM 10/14/2010, you wrote:

From: gypsym...@aol.com
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Drake Cabinet painting

Hi folks,
FWIW  Took a cabinet up to Hartzell in Miamisburg, OH today, as they 
did the original Drake cabinets. I live about three miles from 
them.  Was going to have refinished.  I had sticky paint, which 
is/was literally impossible to sand off.
In any case somewhere in the list stuff it says $25 per piece , and 
lots of folks have done so. (I could live with that its been a pain)

TODAY I was quoted $45 for one piece.
Yes I know $ everything is up...but perhaps they really don't want to do it.

For that amount I'll grind it off.
Carl wd8nhk


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Re: [Drakelist] R4C unstable VFO

[Joe Pyles]

I bought a TR-4CW/RIT off ebay and it would jump in frequency even 
when just listening. I found that one of those dumbell ceramic 
capacitors inside the PTO

had a very small crack in it. I replaced the cap and all is well.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD.

At 05:19 PM 8/19/2010, you wrote:

  Hi People,

  I've got an R4C that is jumping frequency by +- 1 Khz, then 
slowly returns to the correct frequency only to repeat again, and again.
  I have installed the ground strap mod, and exchanged several 
tubes, cleaned the switching, and checked all the RCA jacks on the 
rear panel. At this time I don't know where else to go. Has anyone 
had/ corrected this problem? Any help, or suggestions would be 
greatly appreciated.



  Tom


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[Drakelist] Fwd: Almost there: TR-7 display issues

[Joe Pyles]

Check pin 5/46 on the DR-7 for the 500khz reference. If not there. 
check the PBT/REF board as thats where the 500khz comes from.


73, Joe KC9LAD.


Well, I appreciate everyone's patience with my "TR-7 from hell" (as
someone so aptly called it).  I've got full receive and transmit now,
all that's left is to iron out the DR-7 display issues.

I replaced the DR-7 with a known working board.  In EXT, the frequency
counter works as expected, no problems there.  In NORM, the display is
stuck at "51950".  There is some significance to this number, as
indicated by the service manual:

"The counters will be preset to 5195, which will subtract the 48.05 MHz
First IF from the VCO frequency."

OK, so I've ruled out (for now) the DR-7.  There is a signal from the
VCO at pin 5/66.  Is there some other signal external to the DR-7 that
would cause the display to lock up on this particular setting?

  --Brian/WA3ITE


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[Drakelist] Fwd: Re: Strike an impedance match...

[Joe Pyles]

 On page 3-3 of the TR7 manual at the bottom of the page it says "If 
low impedance headphones are used, a 100ohm resistor should be 
installed in series with the phones".


73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

It's a transistor/IC stage so will be OK with a high impedance load. 
If background hiss is a problen then put an attenuator between the 
radio and the phones.


On 11-Jul-10 18:06, halo.net wrote:

Gents,
Would appreciate any comments matching up the TR-7 4 ohm audio 
output to a much higher headset impedance... thinking ...

...snip...

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Re: [Drakelist] TR7A Display

[Joe Pyles]

Check the switch on the back of the radio marked CNTR is in the NORM position.

At 01:32 PM 5/15/2010, you wrote:
Turned on my TR7A last night and the display was blank except for 
the decimal point.  Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated - 
Thanx es 73!


Jude WD9FUM


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[Drakelist] Fwd: Re: TR-7 RX blown due to lapse of sanity

[Joe Pyles]

Ron, I discussed these mixers with a Mini-Circuits engineer and he 
recommended the SRA-3MH+ over the SBL-1MH+ mainly because the 
SRA-3MH+ has almost 1 db less conversion loss.


73, Joe, KC9LAD


Charles,The Mini-Circuits part number SBL-1MH+ is a direct 
replacement to the CM1 in the Drake TR7.I have replaced several 
of those double balanced mixer modules and that one works perfectly.


Ron / WB4HFN


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[Drakelist] Fwd: TR-7 RX blown due to lapse of sanity

[Joe Pyles]

The closest replacement for the VARI-L mixer used in the TR7 is the 
Mini-Circuits SRA-3MH+. The SRA-1 is a 7dbm LO mixer and the LO in 
the TR7 is right at 13dbm.


http://www.minicircuits.com/products/fm_pic_level_13.html

Also check the 2 pin diodes, CR1401, CR1402, MPN3404 at the front of 
the high pass filter. I repaired a TR7 that the owner had connected 
the output of another transmitter
to the antenna connector on the TR7 and shot about 50 watts into it. 
It seemed to work ok on the lower bands but on 15 and 10 the power 
was very low, it was these 2 diodes.


73, Joe KC9LAD

In a moment of carelessness, I inadvertently transmitted into the RX 
input of my recently acquired TR-7 while testing the transmitter 
output last week.


OK - I can hear the laughter now, and it is well deserved!

So far I have determined:

The rig had zero (or near zero) RF output when purchased - I will 
move this problem to the bottom of the list.


The diodes in the CM-1 mixer module on the upconverter board are 
shorted - hopefully this the limit of the damage caused by my negligence.


I cut open the CM-1 module with a Dremel, and the diode ring is a 
discrete part, encapuslated in what appears to be a ferrite bead, so 
the module will have to be replaced.


I have ordered a MiniCircuits SRA-1 mixer from RF Parts, which I 
hope will be a direct replacement for the CM-1.


I will post the results of my efforts to repair this rig to the list.

Any comments, questions and or razzing is now being accepted 

Thanks,

Charles
K5QED


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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 power cord connector

[Joe Pyles]

Allied Electric has them.

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=7508650&gclid=CLLKuf-O7aACFSFy5QodcziVGg

73, Joe, KC9LAD


At 11:00 PM 4/3/2010, you wrote:
Anyone now where I can get a Cinch S-2404-CCT (or equivalent) 
connector for the Drake TR7?  This is the 13.8 volt 4 pin female 
connector of the PS7.  Looked at Mouser, but they are not stocked.


TNX es 73,
Ron




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Re: [Drakelist] parts person

[Joe Pyles]

His email is: jkri...@cinci.rr.com.

73, Joe, KC9LAD


At 08:56 PM 3/29/2010, you wrote:

Carl,
His store is still on Ebay tonight.  I just looked to see if it had 
closed and found a bunch of good Drake parts.  I don't have a 
current email for John in my address book.  Most of my dealings with 
him have been through his Ebay store.

73,
Don, WB5HAK


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Re: [Drakelist] R-7 Control Board Fix

[Joe Pyles]

The early digital control boards had 9 ICs and the late boards only 
had 5 and one of them was a PROM.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 06:55 PM 3/22/2010, you wrote:
My TR7 manual shows U201 as a MC14028 IC, not a PROM and Digi-Key 
sells them for 52 cents, am I missing something here.


Mike  W6MXV


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake digital readout for the 4-line

[Joe Pyles]

The E-TEK FR-4 is for the twins such as the T-4XC and R-4C. The E-TEK 
FR-4tr will work with the TR-3 and TR-4 series.
I have 2 FR-4tr readouts and they work ok but they are little slow to 
update when you turn the VFO.


73, Joe - KC9LAD

At 03:10 AM 2/25/2010, you wrote:
On Ebay there is an E-TEK FR-4 DIGITAL DIAL FOR DRAKE 4-LINE 
EQUIPMENT, item #380210065831, listed. This is the first time I have 
known of a product like this. Will it work with older Drakes like 
the TR3? Did this kind of gear work very well at all?


Thanks for your input.

Jack Dunigan


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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 power supply board glitch

[Joe Pyles]

I don't know if anyone cares but I searched for a long time for led 
replacements for the #53 bulbs
that would give the Drake blue color and not look purple or intense 
blue. Here's what I came up with
and you can't tell it doesn't have the #53 bulbs in it except I don't 
have to remove the DR7 board every
other month to replace the bulb. the bulbs I use are from 
SuperBrightLEDs.com part no. Warm White BA9s-WWHP6.
I then added a 220 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the hot lead 
on the bulb to dim it a little.
The bulbs are a BA9 base so they go right in. If the stock blue gels 
are ok then the color is the same as with
the #53 bulbs. If the gel is faded I use #854 Roscolene Steel Blue. 
If you hold this and the stock Drake blue
gel up to light you can't tell any difference. Now the TR7 looks like 
a Drake with the proper color of blue
and the LEDs should last in excess of 100,000 hours instead of 1000 
hours for the #53 bulb. The LEDs also draw

a lot less current and don't heat up the PTO.

73, Joe KC9LAD

At 03:32 PM 2/17/2010, you wrote:
OK.  Well Don's are a little different, but still a shorted LED 
should not blow a fuse.  I assume you just soldered the leads to the 
old terminals?  Possibly a short there.


I prefer the incandescent bulb / Lee Lighting #172 film setup too.

There is a reverse polarity protection diode just past the fuse, and 
the supply lines to the PS-7 and ACC connectors are also "downstream".


If It's blowing the fuse, an ohmmeter check should show the situation.
You might have to reverse the ohmmeter leads to beat the polarity diode.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA


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Re: [Drakelist] rubber feet for ac-4

[Joe Pyles]

The round rubber feet with 6-32 stud can be bought at McMaster-Carr 
part no. 9541K8. The self adhesive rubber bumpers that fit into the 
bottom of the feet on the 4 line and 7 line etc.

are McMaster-Carr part no. 95495K121.

73 Joe KC9LAD


At 02:14 PM 2/15/2010, you wrote:
First Thanks to all who responded on the desoldering tool. Lots of 
ideas I never new.


Next I am looking for the four feet that I need to put a AC-4 into a 
MS-4 cabinet. I understand they are rubber and I would imagine keep 
the ps from scratching the inside if the cabinet. But I am not sure. 
Any advice would be appreciated or a source so that I might buy some.


Thanks again
Jim.W7JJW


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[Joe Pyles]

There is a very thin piece of double sided tape on the far right side 
of the front panel. That and the meter hold the panel on.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 10:18 PM 1/31/2010, you wrote:
Ok, The Antenna selector switch on my MN-2700 suddenly went weird - 
I could not select anything - it seemed like none of the detents 
would engage.  I opened the unit up and after some poking around 
realized that the detent part of the switch which is in the front is 
only tied to the inner front panel by the nut on the shaft.  How do 
I tighten the nut?  After a lot more head scratching I have found 
that the meter seems to hold the left side of the front panel but 
the right side won't free up - is there a screw in there that I have 
to find from the back?  What a puzzle this box is - I guess Drake 
never figured these controls would loosen up.  Ouch!


Many thanks
Steve KD2ED


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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PBT 10K Pots

[Joe Pyles]

You need one Bourns 1k pot 3296W-1-102LF for the 
10 volt adjustment, and 5 Bourns 10k pots 
3296W-1-103LF for the passband frequency adjustments.
They are $2.19 each at Newark. You also have to 
move the resistors in between the original pots to the backside of the board.

Here is a link to a website that has very good pictures of this.

http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark5

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD


At 06:54 PM 1/31/2010, you wrote:

Good Afternoon,

My TR-7's PBT pots have finally reached the 
point of failing to maintain the correct 
frequency for both U/Lsb.  I am going to replace all 5 pots when I
pull the board and was wondering if anyone has 
had much luck finding higher quality 
replacements?  I am considering 15-20 turn types if they will fit
into the same space as the originals.  I'd 
rather not have to modify the board too much, 
but would like to hear from anyone who might have tried this.


I've looked at Mouser and found some that are 
close, but figured I'd try this resource first.


Thanks.

Robb NØRU
Woodland Park, CO.


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Re: [Drakelist] Fake TR7A

[Joe Pyles]

I also emailed him and told him the same thing. I have 2 TR7s serial 
nos 9390 and 10476. I also have 2 TR7As serial nos 11299 and 11558. 
So the change over occurred between 10476 and 11299.

As with everybody else I got no response.

73  Joe, KC9LAD.


At 02:41 PM 1/6/2010, you wrote:
I like the sellers " In fact there are so many rumors on when the A 
was released does anyone really know? "
I emailed the guy and told him yes we do know when they were 
released. I also told him about the absence of the "TX" stenciling 
over the spare RCA jack on the back panel and that every TR-7A that 
I had seen had a SN in the 11XXX range. To top it off I worked on a 
TR-7 with a SN of 9985 not too many years ago, which is a higher SN 
than his so called TR-7A. He never responded.


73, Gary


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Re: [Drakelist] tr-7 readout

[Joe Pyles]

The German who makes the replacement readout for the TR7 is Willi Rass – DF4NW.

http://www.df4nw.de/

73

Joe KC9LAD



At 09:50 PM 12/31/2009, you wrote:
Have a nice TR-7 that has one section of one 
readout that failed. What can I do , are any 
replacements around? I remember a co ,,,German? 
who sold total readout replacement kit ,still 
around. would appreciate any help or info on this.

thanks
dale wt4t
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 VFO Problem ?

[Joe Pyles]

Also make sure the Fixed buttons on the front of the radio are not 
depressed, and check that the PTO is indeed putting out a signal as 
the synthesizer won't lock without PTO input.


73

Joe KC9LAD

At 10:06 AM 12/18/2009, you wrote:

Adrian -

Changing the pots to multiturn will have NO effect upon the 
synthesizer operation.  Again, it doesn't hurt, but 
isn't  _necessary_  for proper operation.


You definitely have a synthesizer problem, either in the VCOs or the 
reference frequencies.


Verify that you have the 500 kHz reference, and then check for the 
500 kHz input from the divider chain.


Jim's suggestion to check the 24 VDC supply is a good one.  A common 
cause of failure is the top "half" of the DC-DC converter 
transformer core falls off, or just becomes separated enough to 
cause the voltage to drop.  Looking at the "top" of the transformer 
on the Power Supply board (one with the pots), you should see a 
solid bar.  If you see three "ends" of an "E" sticking up, look for 
the top half of the "E" shaped core in the bottom of the case.  If 
gone, replacements can be had from Charlie, K3ICH.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line&  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Adrian Rees (MW1LCR) wrote:

Hello all

I have the Service Manual and have it printed out.

To confirm the symptoms, on 21 and 28MHz the counter settles around
33.030MHz and 17.206MHz on all other bands. Connecting an antenna I can
"hear" my signal generator on thes frequencies (sweeping the generator
through the 33 and 17MHz frequencies). With an external source the counter
works fine.

So the synthesizer doesn't appear to be locking. I have cleaned the Molex
connectors. My next course of action is to replace the pots on the voltage
control board for multiturn ones, and re-align the voltages etc, and then
re-check the synthesizer board again.

Thanks all for the help, so far !

Adrian MW1LCR




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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 Help please

[Joe Pyles]

You need one Bourns 1k pot 3296W-1-102LF for the 10 volt adjustment, 
and 5 Bourns 10k pots 3296W-1-103LF for the passband frequency adjustments.

They are $2.19 each at Newark.

73

Joe Pyles, KC9LAD


At 03:42 PM 12/12/2009, you wrote:
It's been a while now, so I don't recall if the exact numbers listed 
there are still available, but you should be able to find out on 
mouser.com - that's where I bought mine.  Note that a resistor (one 
per pot) located near each pot position must be relocated to the 
back of the board to make room for the pots.


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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PTO wiring color code

[Joe Pyles]

I don't want to start an argument here but I have 2 TR7s and 2 TR7As 
and on all 4 of them there only 3 wires on the PTO. Any time there 
are spare parts on ebay I
usually buy them. I also have 3 loose PTOs and they all only have 3 
wires, no ground. As I said earlier, the later TR7s have a copper 
grounding finger on the bottom of them
that contacts the chassis when the front panel is rotated into place. 
This is the same finger that is on the up converter and translator boards.


73

Joe Pyles, KC9LAD
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PTO wiring color code

[Joe Pyles]

The Brown wire on TR7 PTO is the RIT. There is no ground wire, in the 
TR7 the PTO is grounded through the mounting screws and on later units a copper

grounding finger on the bottom of the PTO.

73

Joe Pyles, KC9LAD
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 questions

[Joe Pyles]

I don't know how the story about the TR5 VFO being synthesized got 
started, but I have 2 of them and they have the same PTO as the TR7 except
there no dial plates or gears on it. It tunes backwards compared to 
the TR7 because of the way it mixes with the crystals to get each band.


73

Joe Pyles KC9LAD
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Re: [Drakelist] equivalent transistor for drake 2-C

[Joe Pyles]

I've replaced the audio output device in a couple of 2C's with the 
NTE175 and had NO oscillation problems.


73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 11:35 PM 7/10/2009, you wrote:
I do NOT recommend the NTE175.  It is high speed high voltage 
switching transistor.  Because it is a double-diffused device about 
50 times faster than the original part, the circuit may oscillate.


Dennis AE6C

On Fri, Jul 10, 2009 at 3:57 AM, Joe Pyles 
<<mailto:epy...@indy.rr.com>epy...@indy.rr.com> wrote:

NTE175 is listed as replacement.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD


At 09:27 AM 7/8/2009, you wrote:

Hi folks,

I am in the need to change the output audio transistor 40310 in my
drake 2-C. Is there a modern equivalent of the 40310 so I can easily
replace it?

73,

iz2oos

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Re: [Drakelist] equivalent transistor for drake 2-C

[Joe Pyles]

NTE175 is listed as replacement.

73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD

At 09:27 AM 7/8/2009, you wrote:

Hi folks,

I am in the need to change the output audio transistor 40310 in my
drake 2-C. Is there a modern equivalent of the 40310 so I can easily
replace it?

73,

iz2oos

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Re: [Drakelist] R4C AGC Switch

[Joe Pyles]

The AGC switch on the TR5 is a simple 2 pole 4 position switch. Just 
glancing at the R-4C diagram, you should be able to make it work.
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Re: [Drakelist] MN 2700 Manual

[Joe Pyles]

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeManuals/MN2700/Manual_MN2700.htm


At 12:24 PM 3/14/2009, you wrote:
Does anyone have a digital copy of the MN-2700 manual??  I have a 
friend in need of one, and have "Googled" for it and looked on the 
"usual" sites, and am coming up empty.  They are listed on Ron's 
site, but appear to not be "downloadable", unless I'm not seeing 
something (highly likely, hi).

Thanks!
Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 with Modern Linear

[Joe Pyles]

I run a TR7A into an Ameritron ALS-600 amp and on more than on 
occasion I have wiped out the FETs because of the leading edge spike.
I have the alc set to 120 watts on 20 meters and on 75 meters it 
still only puts out 120 watts constant carrier. But on ssb with a 
peak reading wattmeter
such as my Bird 43p when you key the mike and the first say syllable, 
the spike can be well over 200 watts. A constant tone will be held to 
120 watts.
I also have another TR7A and 2 TR7s and they all act the same. To 
solve the problem of taking out the FETs I limit the amp to about 400 
watts with the
alc knob on the amp and the amp can catch the spike. I also put back 
to back 39 volt 5 watt zener diodes from the gates to ground on the amp because
 the max source to gate voltage on the MRF150 is 40 volts. I haven't 
blown the amp for over a year now.


73,
Joe KC9LAD.




On Sun, 01 Mar 2009 14:35:30 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:

>There was a blurb about a "keying" spike when the TR-7 was
>first powered on in the early units, but I didn't think it applied to CW
>or SSB operation.

The power on spike, I think, was related to the VOX circuit. It is
fixable with a mod published by GW4ALG, but only if the parent board
trace cut for allband transmit has not been made. But then, you know
all this. :) I'm restating it for the benefit of newer members who may
have missed those discussions.

73

-Jim



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[Drakelist] Fwd: Re: Drake Part Needed

[Joe Pyles]

I just installed it in the same way that the old mixer was in. The 
reason to leave it as it came is so the receive input goes to the IF 
port which is DC to 200 mhz and the receiver works all the way down to almost
0 mhz.  By the way Vari-L was bought by Sirenza Microdevices which 
has since sold to a company called RFMD.


73, Joe, KC9LAD.



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From: "Jim Shorney" 
To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 12:24:41 -0600
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Great stuff, Joe! Thanks! The next question is, did you install the
SRA-3H as MCL intended, or did you keep the Drake hookup where the RF
and LO ports were swapped?

73

-Jim

On Sat, 31 Jan 2009 12:33:49 -0500, Joe Pyles wrote:

>I don't have any hard numbers but the receiver seems more sensitive
>and quiet. In the datasheet for the SRA-3H the performance graphs
>show it with +14 dbm, +17dbm, and +20 dbm and the performance
>is almost identical. I called Mini-Circuits when I bought the SRA-3H
>and talked to one of the engineers and he recommended this mixer as
>it has 8 schottky diodes in it as opposed to 4 diodes in the level 13
>mixer. he said that this would make it less susceptible to overload
>from strong signals. He said that if the mixer actually was operating
>with +13 dbm instead of +17 dbm the only thing that I would even notice was
>about a 0.5 db higher conversion loss. On 10 meters at 28.500 with a
>known good up converter board the calibrator would give exactly an
>s9, with this board with the SRA-3H the calibrator gives about 5 db over s9.
>
>
>http://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/SRA-3H+.pdf
>
>73, Joe, KC9LAD.
>
>
>
>At 09:30 PM 1/30/2009, you wrote:
>>On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 00:25:59 -0500, Joe Pyles wrote:
>>
>> >In my TR7A I have a Mini-Circuits SRA-3H. It is a level 17 mixer.
>> The TR7 brochure entitled "The Technology of Our Times" by Ron
>> Wysong stated that the TR7 has +17 dbm LO.
>> >so I choose this mixer. I believe the receiver is actually a
>> little better than with the original Vari-L mixer.
>>
>>
>>So which is it really, +13 or +17?  Has anyone empirically measured the
>>LO level? Joe, do you have any hard numbers on the performance of the
>>SRA-3H?
>>
>>73
>>
>>-Jim
>>
>>
>>--
>>Ham Radio NU0C
>>TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
>>GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
>>
>>HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
>>http://radiojim.exofire.net
>>http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
>>http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake Part Needed

[Joe Pyles]

I don't have any hard numbers but the receiver seems more sensitive 
and quiet. In the datasheet for the SRA-3H the performance graphs 
show it with +14 dbm, +17dbm, and +20 dbm and the performance
is almost identical. I called Mini-Circuits when I bought the SRA-3H 
and talked to one of the engineers and he recommended this mixer as 
it has 8 schottky diodes in it as opposed to 4 diodes in the level 13
mixer. he said that this would make it less susceptible to overload 
from strong signals. He said that if the mixer actually was operating 
with +13 dbm instead of +17 dbm the only thing that I would even notice was
about a 0.5 db higher conversion loss. On 10 meters at 28.500 with a 
known good up converter board the calibrator would give exactly an 
s9, with this board with the SRA-3H the calibrator gives about 5 db over s9.



http://www.minicircuits.com/pdfs/SRA-3H+.pdf

73, Joe, KC9LAD.



At 09:30 PM 1/30/2009, you wrote:

On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 00:25:59 -0500, Joe Pyles wrote:

>In my TR7A I have a Mini-Circuits SRA-3H. It is a level 17 mixer. 
The TR7 brochure entitled "The Technology of Our Times" by Ron 
Wysong stated that the TR7 has +17 dbm LO.
>so I choose this mixer. I believe the receiver is actually a 
little better than with the original Vari-L mixer.



So which is it really, +13 or +17?  Has anyone empirically measured the
LO level? Joe, do you have any hard numbers on the performance of the
SRA-3H?

73

-Jim


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TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake Part Needed

[Joe Pyles]

In my TR7A I have a Mini-Circuits SRA-3H. It is a level 17 mixer. The 
TR7 brochure entitled "The Technology of Our Times" by Ron Wysong 
stated that the TR7 has +17 dbm LO.
so I choose this mixer. I believe the receiver is actually a little 
better than with the original Vari-L mixer.


73, Joe, KC9LAD


At 09:36 PM 1/29/2009, you wrote:


All,  I am looking for the balanced modulator, CM1-HF, which
is found in the Drake TR7 up-converter board.I have
searched the Internet with no luck.  If anyone has one or
knows where this part can be purchased please let me know.
As an alternative, if anyone has an up-converter board for
sale, let me know.  E-mail me at wb4...@wb4hfn.com

Thanks, Ron / WB4HFN



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Re: [Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay

[Joe Pyles]

In the early eighties a friend of mine purchased a TR7A as soon as 
they became available. When he passed away 5 years ago it was offered 
to me by his estate, and I bought it.
The serial no. is 11,299. I have a second TR7A and the serial No. is 
11,558. Both radios have the TX stamped over the rca connector on the 
back that is connected to the mic input on the tx exciter board. In 
the very late TR7As, somewhere over serial no. 12,000, Drake added a 
black washer under the TX rca connector on the back.


73s, Joe, KC9LAD.


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Re: [Drakelist] Fake TR7 on ebay

[Joe Pyles]

A friend of mine, Tom, KC9MSA sent a message through ebay to Radio 
Mart telling him that the serial number was way low for a TR7A and 
here was Radio Mart's reply:


Dear Tom
I have received so many conflicting reports regarding this, I am just 
going to let it ride as it is, I have checked the main boards and 
they are all TR-7A's so I have no idea how the # is so low?

Hope all is well with you
Best Regards
Martyn
Radio-Mart inc

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Re: [drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod

[Joe Pyles]

Simply remove Q9001 from the DR7 board accomplishes the same thing 
without cutting any traces and is easily reversed.
This simply stops the TX inhibit signal from U9003 Ham Band PROM. 73, 
Joe KC9LAD.



At 12:44 AM 7/28/2008, you wrote:

"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

Maybe this has been covered before somewhere, but I haven't seen it, 
so here goes.


I was never happy with the "official" modification for allband 
transmit with the TR7 because it disables the
out-of-lock (O.O.L.) transmit inhibit signal in the digital control 
circuit as a side effect. This is the mod to cut
the trace between pins 11 of rows two and three on the parent board, 
as described here:


http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakemod/tr7mod.html

The O.O.L. signal is there to prevent accidental out of band 
transmissions should an unlock condition occur
in the PLL system. I didn't like the idea of killing it. The TX mod 
described by G4ALG at
http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/tr7moremods.html (mod #15) 
preserves the O.O.L. signal, but does not
allow transmit in the 2.5 or 5.0 MHz bands. Additionally, the TX mod 
MUST NOT be done the "official" way
if the G4ALG power on transmit inhibit mod (mod #7, same page) is 
also desired, as this modification

requires the O.O.L. signal to be functioning.

I decided to try to find the best of both worlds. It turned out that 
it wasn't very difficult. Two cuts are required
on the digital control board. The first cut is to an insulated 
jumper wire that lies right next to R221 on the
digital control board. It is the only insulated jumper on the board, 
so it's hard to miss. This has the same
effect as unsoldering the collector of Q9001 on the DR7 board, as 
described by G4ALG #15. The other cut
must be done to a circuit trace connecting two vias on the top side 
of the digital control board. This trace is
located between U209 and R221, and is not connected to anything on 
the top (component) side of the
board. Cutting this trace disables the H.B. ("Ham Band") signal from 
the DR7 board. This fools the TR7 into
thinking that every band is a ham band, and transmission is now 
possible in the 2.5 and 5.0 MHz bands.
After these two cuts are made, the pin 11 cut on the bottom of the 
parent board must be reversed if it has

been implemented.

A marked up pic of the digital control board mod points is available 
on request.


I also implemented the G4ALG power on transmit inhibit mod at this 
time. This is a desirable mod,
especially for those who run transverters or satellite 
downconverters ahead of the TR7. It kills the transmit
spike that can occur in the TR7 under certian conditions when powerd 
on. I didn't have a 22 uF capacitor on
hand, so I used a 10 uF instead and still had plenty of delay at 
power on. The parts were aerially mounted to
the bottom of the parent board and secured with hot glue. Pic 
available on request.


Remember to observe ESD handling precautions when working with the 
TR7, these parts are sensitive to
static damage. Use a grounded soldering iron. As usual, standard 
disclaimers apply; this information is

accurate to the best of my knowledge, but I'm not responsible if you break it.

"Caution: transmission outside the allocated Amateur band 
frequencies will require a license, other than an
amateur radio operator license, and may also require an FCC 
certified transmitter. The TR7/TR7A is not an
FCC certified transmitter/receiver. " - PSA copied from the 
Drakelist web site.


73

-Jim
NU0C




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Re: [drakelist] TR-7 AF control

[Joe Pyles]

Don't take my word for it, take one apart yourself. Edwin Joe Pyles KC9LAD.

At 09:46 PM 2/18/2008, you wrote:


Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Gary -

Yeah, the explanation that I posted earlier is what Bill told me, 
and it made sense.  He even referred me to a manufacturer that 
specified the degrees of rotation for that very problem.  I learned 
something, but there's always another "expert" on the internet!  :-)


I believe the problem was because a 3k Audio taper, 10k Linear taper 
and a double-pole double-through switch wasn't something you could 
find in the catalog and it had to be 'assembled' like CTS offered back then.


The simple explanation is also why the cheapie AC-DC radios didn't 
have the problem, because those controls were ordered WITH switches.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs




Gary Poland wrote:


"Gary Poland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Ken,
 The low audio with the AF gain fully CCW is normal. It has to do 
with the make up of the controls that Drake used. I believe that 
Drake began hand selecting controls for the later TR-7's.


73, Gary



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Re: [drakelist] TR-7 AF control

[Joe Pyles]

The real reason the audio doesn't go all the way down has nothing to 
do with the switch. When the control is all the way down but the 
switch is not off,
the wiper is perfectly aligned with the contact on the carbon. What 
causes it to still pass audio is the contact on the wafer has about a 
1/16" of carbon between it
and the wiper. This causes the resistance to be anywhere from 3 to 10 
ohms, just enough to make it so you can still hear it. I have 5 TR7s 
and I disassembled
the pot on each one and bent the outer contact on the wiper so it is 
out far enough to bypass that small resistance on the wafer. Thus on 
all of mine

the volume goes all the way down. Edwin Joe Pyles KC9LAD.

At 04:15 PM 2/18/2008, you wrote:

Dieter Horst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Hello Ken,

I am afraid, it is normal. Reason is that when audio is completely 
muted, the radio is off because the on/off switch is activated by then...


There is only one cure I once tried: you add a resistor to decrease 
the max. volume and therefore also the min. volume. But I removed it 
again and use the method you described i. e. RF control.


Enjoy your TR-7 !

73, Dieter DL5RDO


> I recently acquired TR-7 SN 3173, my first.  Is it normal for the AF
> control to provide enough volume to still hear easily when full
> counter-clockwise or is the pot changing value with age?  Only way I have
> of cutting audio volume down lower is by use of RF control.  Doesn't
> bother me but I have a picky XYL who's not all that fond of my hobby.

> Thanks,
> Ken - N0VA


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Re: [drakelist] rubber feet inserts

[Joe Pyles]

The adhesive-backed rubber bumpers that fit the rest of the 4 line 
and the 7 line are on page 3612 or the McMaster-Carr online catalog. 
The part number is 95495K121.


http://www.mcmaster.com/

73, Joe KC9LAD


At 12:41 PM 1/7/2008, you wrote:
Happy New year everyone, Now more bits requiring renovation, I am in 
need of the rubber feet for my L-4B, is there a source of these 
anywhere, my ones have nearly worn out. 73 Max

RE: [drakelist] .005 uuF Capacitor?

[Joe Pyles]

I have a TR-4C manual from 1974 and it says .005 uuf. But the manual 
for my TR-4CW/RIT from 1978 says .005 uf.


Joe KC9LAD

At 12:27 AM 12/26/2007, you wrote:


"Steve Aronson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
FWIW, my TR4 manual says the same thing,  ie a 1000 ohm 1/2 watt non
inductive resistor in series with a .005 uuf disk ceramic capacitor.

73 Steve


> Robert Ladden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
> --
> Hello,
>
> I'm fixing my "new" TR-3. The alignment instructions says to make an
> alignment load with a ".005 uuF disk ceramic capacitor" (note that is
> .005 pF these days). That is a teeny amount of capacitance. I assume
> it is a typo and should say .005 uF capacitor.  But looking at the
> instructions for the TR-4 and TR-4C, it is the same. I would think
> that the stray capacitance is more than .005 pF. Is this a typo that
> lasted over 15 years?  Does such a capacitor exist?
>
> 73,
> Bob WW3QB
>
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Re: [drakelist] RF feedback with SP75/TR7 (Field Day gremlin)

[Joe Pyles]

On my TR7A and SP75 I fought RF in the audio I finally stopped it by 
getting a foot long piece of coax braid
and soldering it to the ground side of a couple of RCA plugs and 
plugging one end into the counter jack on
back of the TR7A and the other end to any unused jack on the SP75. I 
know this goes against the manual

but it was the only thing that worked. Joe KC9LAD.

At 11:40 PM 6/25/2007, you wrote:


"Jim Shorney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hi gang,

Since the 8BN8 mystery was so quickly solved, here's another question.

Both this year and last year at Field Day, I found that if the SP75 was not
very carefully adjusted, the PS75/TR7 system was plagued by RF feedback on
the transmit audio.  It seemed more dependent on output level than input gain
of the SP75. IIRC I had to turn the output level up and decrease the mic gain
on the TR7 to tame things.  I had not noted this effect using the SP75 at
home.  The processor is connected per the manual, directly to the power
supply with no extra grounds in the system.  Antenna was a 4-element 20 meter
monoband beam on a tower, probably 35 feet in the air and maybe about the
same distance from the comm shack.  No earth ground at the station or the
antenna, and the antenna was resonant around 14.2 according to my MFJ box.

Before I re-invent the wheel, does anyone have any suggestions or ideas about
what's behind this?  Looking at the SP75 schematic, it looks fairly well
filtered and bypassed, but there may be room for improvement.  Or perhaps the
mic input on the TR7 could use some help...?

TIA,

-Jim



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GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750 - all vintage, all the time!




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RE: [drakelist] PS7 shutting down

[Joe Pyles]

Joe Pyles <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Did you try the TR7 with another power supply to make sure that there 
is not some problem in the final or the output filter board causing 
it to draw excessive

current?

Joe Pyles KC9LAD


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Re: [drakelist] Strange TR7 Digital Board

[Joe Pyles]

In the service manual for the 5 chip board, U201 is listed
as "I.C., 32X8 PROM - Amateur Band Programming". U201 is the
horizontal chip with the white number stamped on it.
At 07:55 PM 3/18/2006, you wrote:
The "
later " 5 chip board does not use a PROM to decode the bandswitch
position. I do not know why Drake changed the design.
73, Gary

Re: [drakelist] Strange TR7 Digital Board

[Joe Pyles]

I have a very late service manual that has both versions of the digital
board. I have a TR7A the serial number is 11558 and it has the board with
5 ICs in it.
At 09:59 AM 3/18/2006, you wrote:
All,  I
have repaired a great many TR-7 transceivers over the years but I have
never seen this version of the digital board.  I have searched
through all my manuals on the TR7 and R7 but this digital board is very
different that anything I have seen before.

I am wondering if anyone on the Drake List is
familiar with this or has seen this version?

This version of the digital board is from a TR7-A
that I'm working on to eventually sell.   It
is 
a very high serial number, well over 12,000, possibly
one of the last in the series made.  The standard digital board has
9 IC's, whereas this new version only has 5 IC's and a very different
board layout.

The link below takes you to a picture of both the
standard digital board and the newer version that I
found.    The boards works fine so I am not necessarily
looking for service information but whether or not anyone else has seen
this version?   I checked out both versions of the TR7 manual
and the R7 manual and find nothing the resembles this version board.

The link shows the standard version on top and the
bottom in the strange version. 


http://www.wb4hfn.com/BIN/DigitalBoard.jpg

Anyone with thoughts or ideas.

Ron Baker / WB4HFN 
Check Out My Amateur Radio
Website 
Vintage Drake and Collins


http://www.wb4hfn.com 

Re: [drakelist] RV 75 problem

[Joe Pyles]

I have an RV75 that had the same problem and to fix it you
go to pages 5-5 to 5-7 in the RV75 manual and do the "Optical
interrupter bias adjustment" and "Optical interrupter
mechanical adjustment".
After doing this my RV75 worked properly.
At 07:32 PM 3/13/2006, you wrote:
R van Trotsenburg
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist
gang
--
Hi Rusty,
The diagrams are on the site of EA1DDO

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/6441/drakei.html
Hope this does helps you.
73 Rien PA0TRT 
---
--
Message text written by INTERNET:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
>Hello Guys,
I decided today to plug up a RV 75 I got a few years ago and to my
surprise, here is what happens. NO matter which direction you tune the
vfo
knob, the freq. only goes in one direction. Not up and down. Now to
hunt
the manual. But does anyone have any ideas as to where to start
looking?
Thanks
Rusty-K4RMB<
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