[Elecraft] T2 and low power on 10 meters was K2 Binocular Core

2004-09-29 Thread Don Brown
Hi

I have also found that T2 is the most critical part affecting the power out on 
10 meters. Here are a few things I do to get it right. It is important that the 
red winding covers most of the core. After tightly winding the red wire, spread 
out the winding evenly around the core so the ends match up with the holes in 
the PC board. Then wind the green winding but allow some extra length on the 
start lead. Count over about 3 or 4 turns of the red winding and wind the green 
so each turn interleaves the red turns and do not cross over the red windings. 
Is important that you end up with alternating red and green turns. Count the 
red turns that are on either side of the green winding, they should be equal or 
within one turn of each other. If not remove one turn from one end and add one 
turn to the other so they are as close to equal as possible. This is why you 
need to allow some extra start wire length so you can adjust the windings if 
needed. Now the red winding should be covering 80-90% of the core and you 
should have the green leads coming out at the sides covering about 50% of the 
core. Bend the green leads forward close to the core away from the red leads 
The wires will come off of the sides of the core. Strip the insulation from the 
wires. I use a small 1/8 inch thick square of double stick foam tape on the PC 
board under the toroid to space T2 off of the board. This spacing is also 
important in getting the required power out on 10 meters. Install the toroid 
making sure the leads are just tight enough to remove any excess length. Do not 
allow the green winding to get scrambled up over the red by pulling the green 
leads to tight. The green leads should still exit the core on the sides and 
make a gentle curve to the PC board holes. 

I have not really seen T4 winding methods affect the power out much. Just make 
the windings tight and the correct number of turns.

One other thing that is sometimes missed is the voltage drop in the power lead. 
The K2 will pull up to 3 or so amps at full power. The power draw is greater on 
the higher bands so this may also show up as low power out on 10 meters because 
the drop in the power lead is starving the final amp of voltage on transmit 
causing the current draw to increase. The power supply must be able to provide 
13.8-14.0 volts at 3-4 amps for the QRP K2 or 20 amps for the K2/100 or you may 
not be able to reach full power. 

Do not use smaller than 20 gage wire or longer than 3 or 4 feet for the power 
wire. I use 18 gage when I build K2 power cables. That is about the largest 
that will fit into the round connector. Radio shack sells some red/black 18 
gage speaker wire that I use for this that looks and works well. For the K2/100 
Elecraft supplies 12 gage red/black wire for the KPA100 so use only that wire 
or larger or you may have problems with the K2/100 reaching 100 watts. If the 
power cord is getting warm then you have a problem and you need to use a bigger 
wire. 

If you must mount your power supply remotely then use something like a 
RigRunner with a large gage cable from the power supply to the RigRunner (14 to 
12 Ga for a QRP K2 or 10 Ga for a K2/100). Use a short cable from the RigRunner 
to the K2 with the 18 gage wire for the QRP K2 or the 12 gage for the K2/100 
The RigRunner is fused for each power tap so you do not need to build in a in 
line fuse for the K2/100 power cable if you install a 20 amp fuse into the 
power tap for the K2/100.

Don Brown

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[Elecraft] Beware the low power out jinx!

2004-09-29 Thread James T. Jim Rogers
Finished K2 #4028 in January and never had any problem with low power
output, until it showed up on the reflector recently with all the
discussion about T2 and the binocular transformer. That did it! I fired up
the rig to call an IK2 and no power on 17M and above. 160 thru 40 were fine,
20 was lower than usual. OH me! Down to the bench and out with the scope and
hook up everything and the power was back! Decided to take some measurements
for future reference and when I touched the XMT buffer output pin, things
began to happen. Turned the rig over and reheated everything around the
buffer and we are back 100%.
Moral of the story, sometimes it takes a while for a problem to show 
up

73 Jim, W4ATK
PS the IK2 was gone by the time I got the rig back in the shack!

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[Elecraft] thanks for answers to living in an apt

2004-09-29 Thread Daniel L Brinneman

Hi folks,

thanks for all the answers to my question of antenna selection for apt.

Daniel


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Includes spam protection, 1GB storage, no ads and more
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[fpqrp] QRP Barbershop NONET: STOP THE PRESSES!!!

2004-09-29 Thread Lloyd Lachow
   This just in:



   Tonight, we'll also be graced with the presence of
Tony, W6ESE, operating from a QTH on a mountain top
in San Diego's North County (next to the mountain
where the Palomar Observatory Telescope is located).
He'll be running the Drake T-4XB/R-4B twins [reduced
power]to a 2,000ft rhombic radiating N/E, a Brown
Bros.
straight key and Brown Bros. iambic paddle, and an
ancient Eico 717 keyer.


  Lloyd, K3ESE
  for the many Barbers




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re:[Elecraft] Fun QSO: 3000 miles, 1.5 watts, 4' whip, elevation delta 9998 feet

2004-09-29 Thread Michael Babineau

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote :

 Something worth mentioning is that
 performance of vertical antennas improves quite rapidly as you get 
very close to

 salt water -- even few meters makes a difference.

Actually Team Vertical did some testing to determine how the 
proximity to
salt water improved signals from a vertical antenna. I believe that the 
conclusion
was that 1/4 wavelength or multiples of such away from the water was 
optimal.
They however used elevated radials. It is worth noting that dry sand 
has horrible
conductivity so if you are using ground mounted radials you will 
probably fare

better if they are on wet sand.

For more details on the tests check out

http://pages.prodigy.net/k2kw/tests.html

Michael VE3WMB

P.S. Wayne ... good job on snagging Hawaii KX1/PM .. you are an 
inspiration to us all!


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[fpqrp] QRP Barbershop: Bryan's Story

2004-09-29 Thread Lloyd Lachow
   Here's Bryan, W0ESE, in his own words:

  I can't wait for all the fun.  I've been a ham  for
a year now and a barber for about 3 months.  I will
be running 5W on a K2 into a full wave 20M loop
(copper pipe, Vert.) pointed East-West.  I will also
use a trap
Dipole(if possible).  

   ...and that's the news for now. Tune in at nine
Eastern, eight central, to catch Bryan and his
tonsorial teammates as they dispense shaves and
haircuts, willy-nilly, far and wide.


 K3ESE

 for the ESEs


 








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[Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration

2004-09-29 Thread J F
Hello All,

Does anyone have any suggestions for calibrating a
Bird 43 and the respective slugs? I picked up a used
one and would like to check it out.

Thanks,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] K2 Frequency Counter Sensitivity

2004-09-29 Thread Don Ehrlich
I am having trouble reading out the frequency of the signal at TP3,
the first step of checkout after part 2 of wiring up the RF board.
The Frequency Counter probe is fine and all components of the
frequency counter from the input through the flip-flop Q9/Q10 check
out perfectly with capacitance and ohmmeters.  Supply voltage to the
flip-flop at U6-10 is 4.75 volts.

The frequency readout from the K2 varies from nothing to almost normal
(12+ MHz) depending on whether or not I have scope or frequency
counter probes attached ( The additional capacitance from the probes
increases the signal level slightly and the counter counts, but
unsteadily.

My external frequency counter reads the signal at TP3 just fine and
frequencies are within specification.

The signal at TP3 is about 2 volts peak-to-peak.  Is this a normal
value?  It looks marginal to me for triggering the Q9/Q10 flip-flop.
If so then the PLL Ref Oscillator has a problem.

Don  K7FJ


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Re: [Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration

2004-09-29 Thread Stuart Rohre
There are no user adjustments on the slug or pickup of the Bird that I am
aware of.

You could check it against some other known standard and construct a graph
paper of differences, but the Bird is good plus or minus 5 per cent about as
good as it gets for RF unless you go to high dollar calorimetric measuring
devices.

Check the Bird web site and see what they say about user calibration or not.
The whole idea of a Bird, is a mechanically robust pick up and fixed slug
that plugs in and out.

Now the meter might get off, but that too is mostly rezeroing the mechanical
zero stop.
73,
Stuart
K5KVH


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Re: [Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration

2004-09-29 Thread marion
 Hello All,

 Does anyone have any suggestions for calibrating a
 Bird 43 and the respective slugs? I picked up a used
 one and would like to check it out.

 Thanks,
 Julius
 n2wn

 Lab cal is done by puting power through it measured with a
known standard. Adjustment is done with pot acessable
after prying off metal label. Check at highest and lowest
and in the middle somewere. Bird rates them at +/- 5%, but
I have yet to see one better than +/- 10%. They are great
for rugged outdoor use, and peaking signal, but no one
I know relies on them for precise measurements of power.
Roy AB7CE
NIST RF Lab Tech



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Re: [Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration

2004-09-29 Thread W0rw
Put a good dummy load on your transmitter, set the frequency within the range 
of the plug, turn on CW,  and use a calibrated scope to measure the peak to 
peak voltage. 

Power = (Vp-p)^2/400 for 50 ohms.

Paul w0rw
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Re: [Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration

2004-09-29 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Julius,

Sorry it has been 30+ years since I had the beast, and gave it away when I
left VEland. Have you tried asking somebody in the test equipment department
of your local friendly communications / broadcast company? You might even
extract a copy of the 43's manual.

73,

Geoff GM4ESD

- Original Message - 
From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 7:10 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration


 Hello All,

 Does anyone have any suggestions for calibrating a
 Bird 43 and the respective slugs? I picked up a used
 one and would like to check it out.

 Thanks,
 Julius
 n2wn


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RE: [Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration

2004-09-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Where the Birds got a great reputation as the Standard was that every time
an FCC engineer would show up on site with the FCC test equipment to check
the output power of a transmitter, he would be carrying a Bird. 

And he was a lot 'easier going' if there was a discrepancy and the
maintenance tech drug out the station's Bird and showed that the discrepancy
was in the meters. I even had one FCC field engineer doing the annual
inspection on a ship tell me Don't bother to change the output power. I'll
have this meter checked at the lab and give you a call if there's an issue.


That, and the incredible ruggedness of the Bird design has given them a
mystique all their own...

I have no idea how accurate they really are. As far as I'm concerned even a
20% error is meaningless in terms of range and signal strength in
communications equipment. I think the one I was hauling around on ships in
the early 1990s had a calibration sticker on it dated in the 1960's. 

Ron AC7AC
--

 Lab cal is done by puting power through it measured with a known standard.
Adjustment is done with pot acessable after prying off metal label. Check at
highest and lowest and in the middle somewere. Bird rates them at +/- 5%,
but I have yet to see one better than +/- 10%. They are great for rugged
outdoor use, and peaking signal, but no one I know relies on them for
precise measurements of power.
Roy AB7CE
NIST RF Lab Tech


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[Elecraft] Missing some dits and dahs

2004-09-29 Thread Ken K7ZUM

Hi All,

   After a few months delay of ignoring my K2, I finally got back to putting
the audio board, keying mod and new firmware in, and have noticed what I
think is a new problem for me, (not sure if it wasn't there before)

 When in CW mode, (have the 100 watt pa board) and I first key up, 
I get nothing out, seems to take about 2 to 3 dits before power comes up,
after that, all is fine, If I change bands, the same thing happens, go back to
the previous band, its the same, 2 to 3 dits, power comes up, have noticed,
that usually on the 2 or third dit, it only comes up to maybe 20-30 watts, 
then full 100 watts, this does not seem normal, did I forget to turn something
on ? or off ??  anybody else come across this ???



73 de K7ZUM
Ken in GresHAM  Ore

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Re: [Elecraft] Bird 43 Wattmeter calibration

2004-09-29 Thread Jim Wiley
Actually, the Bird type 43 wattmeter elements (slugs) do have a 
calibration adjustment, but it is done at the factory.  The trimmer is 
located underneath the frequency range  power label, which is glued 
to the top of the element.  This adjustment is done once at the factory, 
and unless one of the components inside the element has been damaged, 
does not need adjustment.  A damaged slug usually makes itself known by 
being totally inoperative.  If you are unsure about the condition of a 
particular element, a quick comparison check between a known good unit 
will tell you all you  need to know.  Remember that because of 
calibration tolerances, you might see as much as 10% difference between 
two good elements.


- Jim,  KL7CC


J F wrote:


Hello All,

Does anyone have any suggestions for calibrating a
Bird 43 and the respective slugs? I picked up a used
one and would like to check it out.

Thanks,
Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] Re: QRP Barbershop OCTET Contest tonight!

2004-09-29 Thread Trev - K6ESE
Anyone on for the contest??? 20 Meters sure is dead!

73's Trev - K6ESE
http://www.qsl.net/k6ese
dit dididit dit  dit dit
- Original Message - 
From: Lloyd Lachow [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: a new, nice low-energy list [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Li'l Piggies
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; List Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2004 8:56 AM
Subject: QRP Barbershop OCTET Contest tonight!


That's right...we might have EIGHT Barbers on hand
 tonight! If you work all eight on all three bands,
 you'd get 24,000 bonus points. But it's simply not
 possible.

Your Barbers:

Joe, AA4NN, operating his club call, K5ESE. Joe's
 in Delhi, LA, tonight, operating his K2 at 5W to a
 center-fed Zepp at 17 feet.

Jeff, K9ESE, in Muncie, IN, will be running his Red
 Hot 40 and Red Hot 20 at 5W to a vertical end-fed Zepp
 for 20 and 40 meters, and an NVIS horizontal
 end-fed Zepp for 40 meters.  The NVIS antenna will be
 16 feet off the ground, with a wire reflector directly
 under it. Both antennas tuned with LDG Z-11 tuners. Be
 tough to work Jeff on 80M tonight.

Trev, K6ESE, will be coming to you from Los
 Angeles, CA, on his K2 at 5W into an 88' EDZ inverted
 vee,
 40' at the apex, and 12' at the ends. The ends face
 roughly North-South. His paddle will be either the
 Schurr Profi II or Begali Magnetic Signature.

Monty, N5ESE, in Austin, TX, is also running a K2
 at 5W, and it's hooked up to a 40M inverted vee. I'm
 ALMOST sure Monty will be in there...

Tom, K2ESE, in  Elizabeth, NJ, one of our new
 Barbers, will be using an FT-1000 MK5 (cranked down to
 5 watts, of course), an Alpha Delta LB Plus dipole
 (160~40 ), and a beam for the higher bands.

Bryan, W0ESE, of Holts Summit, MO, is another new
 Barber.

Joe Rutledge, W7ESE, of Seattle, WA, rounds out our
 current crop of first-time Barbers. He wanted to use
 his Rock-Mite, but, hopefully, I've convinced him to
 use his my FT-897 at 5 watts, to give more of us a
 chance to work him.  Joe is using a trap dipole.

Lloyd, K3ESE, in Reisterstown, MD, is using his
 multiPIG+ at 5W to an 88' EDZ at 45' and a 302'
 horizontal loop up about 50', both fed with balanced
 line and tuned with a ZM-2.


Barbers will call CQ ESE, and Customers will call
 CQ BS. Barbers may work split, if necessary. All the
 details, an easy-to-use autolog for reporting your
 scores afterwards, and results will be found at
 http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm .


This event combines the non-stop action of a
 two-hour sprint with the hunt-type event, albeit with
 eight ops being hunted, rather than one or two. The
 Barbers are spread out across the US, so everyone
 ought to be able to grab some of those bonus points.


...got two bits...?


for the Barbers,

 Lloyd, K3ESE








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Re: [Elecraft] Re: QRP Barbershop OCTET Contest tonight!

2004-09-29 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ

Trev - K6ESE wrote:


Anyone on for the contest??? 20 Meters sure is dead!

 


Trev,

20 Meters really bit the big one tonight!  I only had two Qs on 20.  As 
usual. 40 Meters was the place to be.  I hung out on 80 Meters for a 
while and was disappointed to not see more activity there.


73 de Larry W2LJ

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RE: [Elecraft] Missing some dits and dahs

2004-09-29 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That's normal in all K2's, QRP or QRO, Ken. Unless you have a
neo-geo-gravitational flux going over on the east side of Portland that we
don't have on the west side (in Forest Grove) G. 

What's happening is that the K2 power control is actually a requested
power control. When you change the POWER knob setting, the next time you
transmit the power monitoring circuit compares the RF power output with what
you've requested and then adjusts the RF output to match it, assuming that
it can. That's why the POWER control lets you set it for power levels above
what the K2 actually produces on most bands. 

In order for the K2 to know whether to change the power output to match
what you've requested, it be making RF. The logic circuits monitoring the
power output are polled at intervals, so if you send some dits it might
take several before the K2 is actually making RF long enough for the power
control circuit to adjust things properly.

For safety's sake, when you first turn the K2 on, the internal power control
automatically sets the output to zero, so the first dit or two are sent at
nearly zero watts. 

You can bump up the power faster after turn-on by sending a dah instead of
dits. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
   After a few months delay of ignoring my K2, I finally got back to
putting the audio board, keying mod and new firmware in, and have noticed
what I think is a new problem for me, (not sure if it wasn't there before)

 When in CW mode, (have the 100 watt pa board) and I first key up, 
I get nothing out, seems to take about 2 to 3 dits before power comes up,
after that, all is fine, If I change bands, the same thing happens, go back
to the previous band, its the same, 2 to 3 dits, power comes up, have
noticed, that usually on the 2 or third dit, it only comes up to maybe 20-30
watts, 
then full 100 watts, this does not seem normal, did I forget to turn
something on ? or off ??  anybody else come across this ???

73 de K7ZUM
Ken in GresHAM  Ore


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