[Elecraft] #4684
Hello all. I've been lurking here for quite a while. K2/100 #4684, and associated goodies, is officially under way. -- R. Kevin Stover, ACØH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Help with Miss Moskita
I am at a stumped, stopping point and need some assistance with the Ms. Moskita kit that I am building for another ham. Receiver workes great, I get side tone but no transmit power. The problem is in the PA. I have triple checked all of the component placement and values, toriods, and all of the normal things that would kill the PA. I have fashioned an RF probe and I am getting RF to the input of the 4:1 matching transformer ahead of the PA. Nothing, nada, zip at the base of the final. I get a few millivolts at the base of the PA, but nothing from the collector. I don't have a scope, so I am at kind of a disadvantage. There are matching coils in the transmit offset mixer that are supposed to beat the 3 MHZ main oscillator with 4 MHZ to provide the 7 MHZ transmit. I am getting sidetone and the 4MHZ is working. Just not juicing the PA. I am looking for someone that has built this to help, or that has a better equipped lab to take this over and get it transmitting. All parts are stuffed, the peripheral wiring is done. If someone can either help me get this transmitting or get it transmitting (and make me feel very foolish in the end) I would and I know the disabled ham that I am building it for would, be very very grateful. Then all that I would need to do is box it and then get it to the rightful owner. The only other thought that I had at this point would be to send it to Peter to see if he could get it working. Help!! Jess AE0CW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Q7 Collector To GND Resistance Reading
Gary, You have a short (or at least a very low resistance) to ground somewhere in the PA collector circuit or on the +12 volt line. The easiest first step in isolating it is to remove the heat sink. The tabs on the PA transistors are connected to the collector, and the thermal pads are supposed to act as an insulator as well as a heat transfer medium. It is quite possible that a bit of metal is lodged in the thermal pads, and the best way to check that is to remove the heat sink (rear panel). If the short remains after removing the heat sink, look very carefully at the soldering in the PA area - it only takes a sliver of solder splash to create a short. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - In running the final Resistance Checks on p. 71 of the K2 manual, I only get 1.7 ohms at the Q7 collector. The manual says I should get >500 ohms. When I study the schematic, I can't see where the >500 ohms is supposed to come from since Q3 is connected across Q7 and Q8 collectors and the 12V line. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] thanks
I wish to thank all who responded to on the posed K1, KX1, K2 time and difficulty question. I am leaning toward the K2 since my idea of portable operation is field day (maybe?). To be truthful building the GEAR is more fun the operating it as the building removes the stresses everyday situations. Now to start saving pennies for it. As long as I'm wishing how about an "ELECRAFT WATT METER KIT" MMmmm TNX 72/71 de "RC" kc5wa -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.6.9 - Release Date: 1/6/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 432 Transverter availablity?
Hello all, My curiousity has gotten the better of me and I have to ask. Is there any word on when a 432 MHz transverter will be available? I believe that I heard somewhere that they were working on it. Any ideas? Doug W4DAS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Q7 Collector To GND Resistance Reading
Hi Gary, Yes, you are also looking at the 12 volt line. Only 1.7 ohms is too low. Look at your meter. Is the "positive" lead at Q7 - if not you could be "turning on" D12 on the 12 volt feed. That's a reverse polarity protection diode. Also, the resistance readings don't come out right if your ohm-meter puts out too much voltage. The meter should not make enough voltage to "turn on" semiconductor junctions. If you really only have 1.7 ohms on the 12 volt line something is likely to smoke. >In running the final Resistance Checks on p. 71 of the K2 manual, I only >get 1.7 ohms at the Q7 collector. The manual says I should get >500 ohms. GL de AB9GV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] dec supply and keying
Hi Guys here is my first published technical query. Have good wall wart and good 25a 10 to 15vdc supply. ps connected/fuse good no action. Plug in wall wart everything seems ok except CW. Take out wall wart unit is dead wih PS sujpply connected still. That's gotta be the easy one! Have an 1/8 stereo extention cord to reach keyer. Short extenson cord end w/ clip lead and get continiuous tone .even after removing short. Turn off DC to restore. Then on again and process repeats quiet until short w clip lead and then continuous tone. Meanwhile have pushed button maked "spot" and note no change Unable to change ele key speed is noted as secondary effect Other than soak your head suggestions appreciated. Hansville already has too many. 73 Earl W7TK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Q7 Collector to GND Resistance
I meant T3, not Q3. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Q7 Collector To GND Resistance Reading
In running the final Resistance Checks on p. 71 of the K2 manual, I only get 1.7 ohms at the Q7 collector. The manual says I should get >500 ohms. When I study the schematic, I can't see where the >500 ohms is supposed to come from since Q3 is connected across Q7 and Q8 collectors and the 12V line. Please help. Thanks. Gary N0AGH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Questions on battery, pots, chargers, and paddles
I am working on a modification of Don's extra charging jack by replacing the SPST battery switch with a DPDT in the samf form factor. The switch hooks the battery to the rig through the diode and resistor or to the charging jack through a fuse. That provides direct access to the battery safely but protects the rig from that jack. (I wish there were a center-off version of the switch so that the battery could be totaly disconnected even from the jack). if anybody wants part numbers let me know. I also have construction picture...I still need to find the best wire dressing from the switch to the charging jack (old transverter hole) without going under the KAT2, which seems undesirable to me because of the RF there. 73, WA5ZNU Leigh. On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 8:49 am, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: See my website www.qsl.net/w3fpr for all the relevant details. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE:[Elecraft] Filter settings K2
Absolutely Andre'. Piece of cake. Download the Programmer's Reference from the Elecraft web site. K24U ( you can google it on the web) is a control program for the K2 that gives you a free trial if you want to see what some of the guys have done programming CAT for the K2. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 222 Transverter Issues
Dave, a few others noticed that sensitivity in the adjustable attenuator pot, R22, as well and I was asked to take a look at it. The 2 volts was an arbitrary figure. All that's needed is to be sure the stages aren't being driven into limiting so you'll get nice, clean peaks when making the adjustments. We've done some testing and found that you can go as high as 10 volts and still be fine. A new errata was released December 9 and is now on the Elecraft web site for download. In addition to changing that reference level from 2 volts to 10 volts, it also contains two manual supplements. Supplement II contains a summary of all the transverter jumper settings. I'm sure you will find it handy. (Supplement I is for instructions for a K2 equipped with the K60XV module with their transverters.) If you find that R22 is set near minimum, it will be very critical. It's perfectly okay to configure the jumpers J3, J4, J5 and J6 for more attenuation ahead of R22 as shown under "I.F. Power Control" in the addendum in order to reduce the overall gain and make R22 sit nearer mid-range. As you will see in the addendum, there are specific jumper settings for each I.F. tx power range. If R22 is close to minimum and touchy, simply configure the jumpers for the next higher input power level. The adjustable attenuator should have overlap across the fixed ranges to accommodate any input level from 0.01 mW (-20dBm) up to 5 watts. About the Local Oscillator frequency error, only the XV50 has a frequency netting adjustment. That's why the manual contains no instructions for setting the L.O. frequency for the XV144 or XV222. If you are using your XV222 with an Elecraft K2, there is an offset that you can dial in at the K2 using the MENU commands for each transverter to allow for variations in the L.O. crystal frequencies so the K2 frequency display is exactly right. It's described in the documentation that came with your firmware. Those data sheets are also available at www.elecraft.com. If you're using another rig for the 28 MHz I.F. and would like to get a little closer to the ideal L.O. frequency, I suggest dropping a note to [EMAIL PROTECTED] about the issue. I'm not the design engineer on the transverter, so I can't suggest specific changes, but Gary in support is an invaluable resource! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hello list. Just finished my elecraft 222 transverter and have a couple of issue. 1 - The input attenuator is overly sensitive. I believe this is R22. I hardley touch it and the voltage level goes way beyone the suggested 2 volts. I replaced it with a 10 turn pot and have a little more control but it seems way to critical. Also, when trying to get it on frequency it was 2.5 KHZ high was the best I could do. I bought the optional crystal heater and got it closer but it is still a little high. The odd thing here is I just about have to remove the slugs in L4A and L19. Logic would tell you increasing the inductance should lower the frequency but both of these coils have the oppistie effect. Any idea why this is the case? Thanks, Dave N6TEB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SWAP External amp for KPA-100
I'm not completely sure I want to do this yet, but would anyone who owns a KPA100 internal amp be interested in swapping it for a external 150W auto bandswitched , filtered, overdrive protected, external amp + cash? http://www.rmitaly.com/scheda.asp?tipo=175&lingua= (PDF of manual/schematic available there) I'm extremely happy with the performance of this amp with my K2, but I'd like to drive an external legal limit amp, and want the convenience of an integrated amp w/my K2. This unit is not type accepted, but if you look at the schematics you'll note it's got extensive output filtering and likely would meet all technical requirements, except for the current idiotic restrictions on low drive amps that cover 10m. Will be happy to meet you on the air to demonstrate the performance of this. The K2 hooked to Logger32 via the KIO with an amp is an awesome DX hunter * ! Thanks! John K5MO * (if only the knobs/panel was bigger to fit big hands at a fixed station...hint..hint) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Filter settings K2
Hello, as a newbie I just finnished my K2, sn 4415 and I was wondering is it possible to read the contents of the filter settings via the RS232 port and store the results or even change the settings via the RS232 port? Happy new year and thanks in advance, André pa0akv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Cap meters AADE version
I can heartily endorse the AADE LC meter ( see http://www.aade.com/) I received a kit for Christmas, built it in less than 2 hours, and have been extremely happy with the unit. The AADE unit won't do large value polarized caps, but generally the application of such caps (bulk capacitance for filtering) is generally one where precision measurement is not important . The accuracy and resolution of low L and C ranges with the AADE unit is just what I needed at my bench. Consider this a "four thumbs up" for the AADE unit. Good folks and good product for a fair price. 73 John K5MO (no connection to AADE other than as a happy customer!) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 222 Transverter Issues
Hello list. Just finished my elecraft 222 transverter and have a couple of issue. 1 - The input attenuator is overly sensitive. I believe this is R22. I hardley touch it and the voltage level goes way beyone the suggested 2 volts. I replaced it with a 10 turn pot and have a little more control but it seems way to critical. Also, when trying to get it on frequency it was 2.5 KHZ high was the best I could do. I bought the optional crystal heater and got it closer but it is still a little high. The odd thing here is I just about have to remove the slugs in L4A and L19. Logic would tell you increasing the inductance should lower the frequency but both of these coils have the oppistie effect. Any idea why this is the case? Thanks, Dave N6TEB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Questions on battery, pots, chargers, and paddles
The battery is very secure in its wrap around aluminum bracket. Just set the internal battery switch to the off position to be safe. I use a Samlex PS goosed up to about 14.5V (Adjust VR2, not VR1!) connected to the normal power jack and all is well. 73, Lonnie NY2LJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Minimizing voltage drop on transmit in K2
This may be a repeat as the previous message did not show; it was sent before the conformation of subscription. I installed a 3Ah Li-PO battery in my K2. This battery has a starting voltage of about 12.4 and ending of about 8. To make the most of it requires that the drop in voltage on transmit be minimized. However, this drop is 0.9 V. It stayed the same after changing to the low-drop diode, which only changed the overall drop by about 0.3 V. On transmit, K2 draws 3-3.5A. Here is where the drop comes from: battery - 0.3 diode - 0.2 wires + extra fuse from battery to K2 - 0.2 self-resetting fuse - 0.2 Has anybody attempted to minimize this drop? Regarding the LIPO battery, batteryspace.com sells 1.5A units weighing 1 oz at about $7 each. They also sell a very small 110/220V charger for $15. 73, Ignacy, NO9E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Questions on battery, pots, chargers, and paddles
Scott, Answers to 1 and 3 -- the internal battery is quite tightly mounted, so you should have no worries about it shaking loose. I use the A&A Smartcharger on my K2 internal battery, and I have implememted a direct (fused) battery connection for it. See my website www.qsl.net/w3fpr for all the relevant details. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - Fellow Elecrafters: K2 #4649 is alive! Actually, it has been alive for about a week but I didn't want to declare victory until both CW & SSB were fully tested. (OK, 12m is still not working... but I'm getting there!) I did have a few questions which I hope the collective expertise of the list might help me with. 1. Travel with the internal battery. I've ordered the internal battery which should arrive today. Is this thing sufficiently mounted to travel well (shake-and-bump-wise)? It will be in a carry-on sized Pelican case with all the nice padding but I'm wondering if most folks remove the battery for travel (carry-on) or if it rides well inside. Opinions? 2. My audio potentiometer is flakey. Who knows why. While I tried to be careful during assembly, perhaps I pushed on the shaft. Anyway, it is now "loose" and from about the 40% point to the 80% point in its rotation it is clear the wiper is not making good contact. Is this common? Are these potentiometers especially vulnerable to such things? I'm also guessing that ordering the replacement from Elecraft is the best idea (instead of trying to match something in Digikey, or elsewhere). 3. Has anybody used the A&A Engineering smart SLA charger with the internal battery? What mods, if any, did you make to the battery system to achieve this? 4. I'm drooling over the hex paddles now advertised on the Elecraft web site. It looks JUICEY! But, I would want it to be the key that travels with the radio. Does anybody have this item? If so, could you render an opinion about how well it might travel in the aforementioned case? =-=-= Thanks for everybody's help. The little K2 is quite a radio! First QSO was with Columbia on 20m from Massachusetts. Got a great signal report on SSB 9 watts with a random wire antenna. Pretty good! I'm trying to get all this assembled, tested, and ready to travel for Feb. I'll be QRV from KH6 mid-Feb for a week. Lots to do before then! -- Scott (NE1RD) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 40m transmitter test FAILS
Mike, are you talking about a K2? If so, check R66 and R69. R66, 2.7k (red-vio-red) is closest to connecter P3 and the edge of the board while R69, 100k (brn-blk-yel) is farthest from the edge of the board. If they are reversed, the RF detector will work, sort of, but the readings well be very unstable. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Well, just go through the final assembly tests and started the alignment testing. I was feeling good when all the resistance checks were good. But then I did the 40m transmitter test, per the book. When I set the power out to 2.0 watts, then hit the TUNE button, I got wildly varying output readings. The output varied constantly and quickly from about 2 - 8 watts. This was at a supply voltage of 14 volts. At 12v, it varied from 2-6 watts. When repeating the test, I have seen readings varying from 13-18 watts! And again, this is varying constantly and quickly, and it never stabilizes. I talked to Elecraft support last night and he suggested that I check the components in the RF output detector stage. I did that and did not find anything. The components were the right ones, oriented correctly, and I reheated all the solder joints. I did not take any of the resistors out of circuit to measure them. I sent Elecraft an email late last night on the results of what they suggested and am waiting for a reply, but thought in the meantime I would see if any of you have experienced the same thing. I have gotten good feedback from this group already! I also found that if I set the output power to a lower level, like .5w, the test was fine. I could gradually increase this setting, with good test results, until I get to about 1.2 - 1.4 watts. Somewhere in that range I start to get the wild readings. So thanks again, Mike, NJ2OM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Questions on battery, pots, chargers, and paddles
Fellow Elecrafters: K2 #4649 is alive! Actually, it has been alive for about a week but I didn't want to declare victory until both CW & SSB were fully tested. (OK, 12m is still not working... but I'm getting there!) I did have a few questions which I hope the collective expertise of the list might help me with. 1. Travel with the internal battery. I've ordered the internal battery which should arrive today. Is this thing sufficiently mounted to travel well (shake-and-bump-wise)? It will be in a carry-on sized Pelican case with all the nice padding but I'm wondering if most folks remove the battery for travel (carry-on) or if it rides well inside. Opinions? 2. My audio potentiometer is flakey. Who knows why. While I tried to be careful during assembly, perhaps I pushed on the shaft. Anyway, it is now "loose" and from about the 40% point to the 80% point in its rotation it is clear the wiper is not making good contact. Is this common? Are these potentiometers especially vulnerable to such things? I'm also guessing that ordering the replacement from Elecraft is the best idea (instead of trying to match something in Digikey, or elsewhere). 3. Has anybody used the A&A Engineering smart SLA charger with the internal battery? What mods, if any, did you make to the battery system to achieve this? 4. I'm drooling over the hex paddles now advertised on the Elecraft web site. It looks JUICEY! But, I would want it to be the key that travels with the radio. Does anybody have this item? If so, could you render an opinion about how well it might travel in the aforementioned case? =-=-= Thanks for everybody's help. The little K2 is quite a radio! First QSO was with Columbia on 20m from Massachusetts. Got a great signal report on SSB 9 watts with a random wire antenna. Pretty good! I'm trying to get all this assembled, tested, and ready to travel for Feb. I'll be QRV from KH6 mid-Feb for a week. Lots to do before then! -- Scott (NE1RD) B. Scott Andersen| "Magic is real, unless declared integer." [EMAIL PROTECTED] | -- The collected sayings of Wiz Zumwalt Acton, Massachusetts | Ham: NE1RD, QRP ARCI#11588, FP#-910 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (no subject)
My two-band (40 and 20m) K1 has been sitting idle for too long and it needs a new home. I am offering it along with the internal ATU and tilt stand for $300. It works great but I just don't have the time anymore to get on the air. I accept personal checks, VISA, MC, Discover and American Express. Dave Markheim, W2QU Big Bear Lodge 864-836-4128 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 40m transmitter test FAILS
Well, just go through the final assembly tests and started the alignment testing. I was feeling good when all the resistance checks were good. But then I did the 40m transmitter test, per the book. When I set the power out to 2.0 watts, then hit the TUNE button, I got wildly varying output readings. The output varied constantly and quickly from about 2 - 8 watts. This was at a supply voltage of 14 volts. At 12v, it varied from 2-6 watts. When repeating the test, I have seen readings varying from 13-18 watts! And again, this is varying constantly and quickly, and it never stabilizes. I talked to Elecraft support last night and he suggested that I check the components in the RF output detector stage. I did that and did not find anything. The components were the right ones, oriented correctly, and I reheated all the solder joints. I did not take any of the resistors out of circuit to measure them. I sent Elecraft an email late last night on the results of what they suggested and am waiting for a reply, but thought in the meantime I would see if any of you have experienced the same thing. I have gotten good feedback from this group already! I also found that if I set the output power to a lower level, like .5w, the test was fine. I could gradually increase this setting, with good test results, until I get to about 1.2 - 1.4 watts. Somewhere in that range I start to get the wild readings. So thanks again, Mike, NJ2OM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] comparison and comments
"Using the K1 as a base line for time and difficulty. Please compare the K2 and KX1. I wish to start looking at my next project. I like building kits" The K2 is essentially the same "level of building complexity" as the K1, IMHO. The K2 just takes longer to build because there are more boards and more parts. The K1, being a simpler radio, also has fewer steps in the setup and alignment process. I'm an experienced builder. My base K2 (#771) took 44 hours to go from parts to on-the-air, between Christmas and New Year's Eve 1999. If I had to do it again I could shave about 10% off that, and even more if I bought the toroids pre-wound. If I recall correctly my K1 (#1181) took 16 hours, parts to air, including the KNB1. Now, if only Aptos would come out with something else I "need." ;-) __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - now with 250MB free storage. Learn more. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Measure Capacitance
It seems several hams on this reflector have had difficulty reading and measuring small capacitors (like me!!) . I recently purchased an L/C meter from almost all digital electronics, AADE, www.aade.com. This is not a DMM but measures inductance and capacitance only. It can measure capacitance down to 1 pf accurately, It can also measure inductance as well. I have 4 calibrated capacitors and one calibrated inductor. In each case the measurement error was about 0.5%. for me that's plenty good. The meter has a zeroize function so that stray capacitance can be removed from the reading. It comes with a small PC board with single line strip connector so small two leaded capacitors and chip capacitors can be easily measured. I have no financial arrangement with this company. I just think AADE provides a great instrument at a good price. My $0.02 worth. Rich W3ACO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
