Re: [Elecraft] K2 4914 Status
Jim W7RY wrote: Well 4914 is well under way! I have completed step 1 and all functions checked out 100%. I have completed the 3 paragraphs of resistors and now moving onto the resistor packs. Just about ready to start the construction of the new stabilizer circuit board. Jim, My #4904 is in the exact same level of rediness as yours. :-) I only having some troble understanding how I am going to success with so much empty holes on the RF-board. It feels nearly impossible that it will work... Anyway, now I'm going to take a few deep breaths and continue one piece at the time. Duoble-check everything and it hopefully goes well... 73 de SM0RVV ./Erik ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re:T1 Front Panel label
Hi after much thought before the message was posted I left the clear cover on,as in the past,the clear cover has been part of the label (not elecraft) I did notice a air bubble and did wonder,but with the clear film now removed,a very nice panel indeed Donald 2M0XDS P.S. The relays on my kit version did not click at first using the bypass option,until RF was applied,now clicking quite the thing ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Poster with K2 and AC7AC on wall of BBC WS in Bush House
Forgive me if this has been discussed to death already, but I'm not on the list all the time. Due to my interest in books, sailing, theatre, etc., I come to the UK regularly, and often have gazed at the Mecca of SW broadcasting while waiting at Aldwych for the bus; and patronize the BBC shop on the ground floor regularly. It turns out, another member of the Arthur Ransome Society works as an audio engineer for the BBC WS, and was on duty late last night, so gave me a midnight private tour of Bush House. We were going up a large staircase and I saw in the distance a WS promo poster with what looks like a homebrew rig, so I go closer. It turns out, it's Ron AC7AC quoted about the WS, and the homebrew rig is on top of a K2 in the photo. So, there's currently a photo of a K2 on the wall of a staircase in the home of the BBC World Service. Perhaps Ron can give us more information about the homebrew rig shown? 73, doug in London ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1-4, Which VFO range selection, 80 kHz or 150 kHz
Thank you Sandy, Tom, Eric, Mike and William and others for your on and off list answers. I decided to go with 80kHz, and I am waiting my K1 now (last part for Lisa). 73, Ruchan Ozatay (TA2AH) - Original Message - From: Sandy [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: EricJ [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'Mike Morrow' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'ta2ah-2' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 12:33 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4, Which VFO range selection, 80 kHz or 150 kHz I'm afraid I agree for the most part here. There isn't anything of interest about 80 khz from lower band edge. That will probably shrink if the bandwidth plans are implemented anyway as far as CW is concerned. If you are in a contest and have the selectivity ratcheted down to 200 Hz, even with the 80 khz. coverage the tuning gets a bit touchy at times. I can't imagine WHY I'd want to tune a 150 Khz segment with a CW only rig anyway! My only complaint about my beloved K1 is the RIT tuning is rather touchy and can be critical to set. Again especially so with the narrowest selectivity in. use! Been thinking of reducing the range of the RIT tuning as I VERY rarely work with a DX offset more than a couple of khz at most. 73 Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: EricJ [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Mike Morrow' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'ta2ah-2' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 6:33 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K1-4, Which VFO range selection, 80 kHz or 150 kHz | Once again, different strokes... | | My K1 is primarily a portable radio. At home, I can get WWV on the K2. In | the field, I already have a watch. If the watch craps out, I'll ask someone. | Gaining WWV is not worth giving up slower tuning on the portion of 30m where | I find most CW. My main interest on 30m is county hunting anyway so I'm | pretty much 10.114-10.116 anyway. | | There are more stations from 7000-7050 than I could ever work, but I | appreciate the slower tuning for that part of the band. | | When 15 is open, there are more stations than I can work from 21000 to | 21060, and very often nothing above it, at least none that I can hear from | this location. Again, the slower tuning for a smaller, more populated part | of the band is useful to me. | | The idea of crossband has never occurred to me as something I would want to | do. I can't see the appeal. Likewise, I never use split frequencies so I use | the XIT button for SPOT and reduced the range of RIT so it would be useful | for me for minor received tone corrections. | | We have different operating styles and preferences, thus different opinions. | Ruchan has the benefit of matching his operating style and preferences to | each of us when he sets up his K1. | | Eric | KE6US | | -Original Message- | From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] | [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Morrow | Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 3:52 PM | To: 'ta2ah-2'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net | Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K1-4, Which VFO range selection, 80 kHz or 150 kHz | | Ruchan Ozatay wrote: | | I will get my K1 with KFL1-4 to build. I want to know your opinions, | which VFO range I have to select? | | Eric wrote: | | I tried 150 khz at first. The tuning is WAY too fast and the added | frequencies are of no use to QRP... | | I've been using K1 #175 in the USA since November 2000, and I find the | advantages of the 150 kHz span to be overwhelming, but **only** for use in | this ITU region. | | IMHO, the 150 kHz span (actually it's about 170 kHz) has a very controllable | and acceptable tuning rate (after FP-R19 was added to the design in 2001 to | linearize the tuning rate at about 17 kHz per turn). I also use a little | felt padding placed between the VFO knob and the front panel to give a | slight amount of rotational resistance. No matter which span is used, the | VFO potentiometer shaft needs this extra resistance, IMHO. | | and the added frequencies are of no use to QRP... | | No use??? | | Certainly there is some use in this ITU region, where 7100 to 7150 kHz is | excellent QRP territory and the main justification by far for choosing the | wide span. Cross-mode (Morse-LSB) contacts in the phone band from 7150 to | 7170 MHz are possible, since the K1 receiver operates in LSB mode (on all | bands). When 15m is hot and one or more of the 6,666,666 different contests | is wasting good RF energy, 21100 to 21170 kHz provides a haven for Morse | QSOs. | | I also built for 10.1 mhz as most of the useful QRP activity seems to | be 10.100-10.120. | | With the 170 kHz span and the 1 kHz band edge crystal installed, time | and propagation info are often available from WWV at 10 MHz in the USA. A | useful capbility. | | HOWEVER, if I lived in another ITU region where Morse operation from 7100 to | 7150 kHz was not allowed, and where WWV could not normally be copied, I'd | choose with the 80 kHz span. That is probably the best setup for your
[Elecraft] Morse with a Nokia
You can send morse with your Nokia, I'll stick to my K2. http://laivakoira.typepad.com/blog/2005/05/morse_texter.html Mike VK1KCK K2 #2599 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Low Power on 20m and 30m
I have a problem that another couple of posters seem to have too, however I am not sure what the solution is or if there is anything else that I should check. I have completed K2/100 #4891 and my power output on 20m and 30m is lower than expected : 80 watts on 30m and 55 watts on 20m. Power output on all other bands is as expected. The receiver sounds OK on all bands. Any suggestions please? Thanks John, G4IRN. - Email provided by http://www.ntlhome.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Power supply for K1
Tim, Check out the one that Marshall Emms sells at Morse Technologies www.mtechnologies.com for use with the OHR series of QRP rigs. He has done a lot of looking and checking to find the one best power supply for QRP rigs. I have had one for about a year and a half and it has been quiet, stable, and reliable. You will probably want to add powerpoles to increase it's flexibility. 73 de NNØB --Steve -Original Message- From: Timothy Fiebig [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 05:56 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Power supply for K1 Does anyone on the list have any suggestions for a compact power supply for the K1? Thanks for any input. 73 Tim/K2TF __ Discover Yahoo! Have fun online with music videos, cool games, IM and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/online.html *** The information contained in this message may be privileged and/or confidential and protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. Note that any views or opinions presented in this message are solely those of the author and do not necessarily represent those of Ameren. All emails are subject to monitoring and archival. Finally, the recipient should check this message and any attachments for the presence of viruses. Ameren accepts no liability for any damage caused by any virus transmitted by this email. If you have received this in error, please notify the sender immediately by replying to the message and deleting the material from any computer. Ameren Corporation *** ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Low Power on 20m and 30m
Hi John, I recently had a very similar problem. In my case, all bands were putting out over 100 W except I could only get 90 W on 30m into a dummy load. I counted recounted ( recounted!) the turns of the corresponding toroids and double checked that I hadn't mixed up capacitors in the those low pass filters. Everything checked out so I wasn't sure what to do next. In semi-desperation I recalibrated...and then everything checked out, all bands over 100 W. Before trying that you might first double check that you're getting correct output without the 100 W stage, = 10 W on 10/12m and = 15 W on the rest if I recall correctly. Good luck! (And please post your solution when you find it) Mike AB3AP [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [...] I have completed K2/100 #4891 and my power output on 20m and 30m is lower than expected : 80 watts on 30m and 55 watts on 20m. Power output on all other bands is as expected. The receiver sounds OK on all bands. Any suggestions please? Thanks John, G4IRN. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 filter board question
I bought both a 4-band and 2-band filter board for my K1. I built the 4-band board for 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters. I have parts to make the 2-band board either 80/17 or 80/15. I've also considered the 160/80 option. That's not what's bothering me. Here's the question: What's really going to be involved when swapping boards? Beyond the physical removal of one board and installation of the other, there are menu changes to make to identify what bands are installed. What about calibration? In the documentation for the 2-band board it indicates the K1 can remember settings for 4 bands so it's not necessary to re-calibrate every time you swap boards. They must be thinking I'm swapping two 2-band boards because 4+2 is six bands to remember. Anybody else using this configuration and can tell me what all I'll have to do every time I switch boards? My other alternative is just to forget the 2-band board and move on to building K2 #4941 which is sitting in its box ready to be built. I just feel like I should finish all the K1 options before moving on to the K2 otherwise the K1 will never get done. Craig NZ0R K1 #1966 K2 #4941 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
re:[Elecraft] Power supply for K1
I assume that you are looking for an AC power supply. Morse Express sells a very compact and quiet supply that would be perfect for this application : http://www.morsex.com/cup/index.htm I don't have one of these personally, but I have bought a lot of stuff from Marshall and he is a great guy to deal with. Michael VE3WMB P.S. Standard disclaimer, I have no financial interest in Morse Express. I'm just a satisfied customer. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 filter board question
Craig wrote: I bought both a 4-band and 2-band filter board for my K1. I built the 4-band board for 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters. I have parts to make the 2-band board either 80/17 or 80/15. What's really going to be involved when swapping boards? ... What about calibration? The K1 MPU stores a display calibration factor for each HF (160m through 10m) band, not each filter board band. When you calibrated your 40/30/20/15m board, the K1 stored the results for 40/30/20/15m. If you build a two band filter board for 80/17m and calibrate the display, then the K1 will store the results for 80/17m. After you swap in a two-band filter board, you must tell the K1 MPU which HF band is assigned to K1 bands b1 and b2. When you return to a four band board, you must re-assign b1 and b2 to the appropriate HF band. The K1 automatically uses the appropriate stored display calibration factor for the HF band assigned to each K1 filter board band. EXAMPLE: If you remove your 40/30/20/15m board and install a 80/17m board, the K1 automatically detects that a two-band board in now in place. Then you use the menu to re-assign b1 to 80m and b2 to 17m. The K1 automatically applies the previously stored display calibration factors for 80m or 17m. If you remove your 80/17m board and install a 40/30/20/15m board, the K1 automatically detects that a four-band board in now in place. Then you use the menu to re-assign b1 to 40 and b2 to 30m. You won't have to change anything for b3 and b4, since the K1 will remember that they had been assigned to 20/15m when you first set up your four band board. They must be thinking I'm swapping two 2-band boards because 4+2 is six bands to remember. Just remember, the display calibration factor is stored in the K1 front panel MPU for each HF band. It doesn't matter how many bands your filter board has, because once you tell the K1 MPU which HF band goes with each filter board band, the appropriate display calibration factor for the HF band will be used. Anybody else using this configuration I use a 40/30/20/15m board and a 80/17m board. I don't often swap boards, but it's a nice feature to have anyway. and can tell me what all I'll have to do every time I switch boards? Only two basic steps, anytime after you've initially calibrated and aligned each board: (1) Physically swap boards. (2) Re-assign HF bands for b1 and b2. That's it, no matter if it's a two-band or a four-band board swap! NOTE: You mentioned that you were considering building the two-band board for 80/15m. Your four band board already has 15m, and you have already stored the display calibration factor for 15m in th K1. The K1 can store only one display calibration factor for each HF band. If you install another filter band board that also has 15m on it, when you assign b2 to 15m the K1 will use the calibration factor that was based on the hetrodyne crystal for 15m that was on your other filter board. Unless the 15m hetrodyne crystals on the two filter boards oscillate within about 100 Hz of the same frequency, then the display will be somewhat inaccurate on the second filter board that has 15m on it. There's no way of getting around this. It's best to not duplicate the same HF band on multiple filter boards. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FDIM/Dayton-VE9 Land
Made it back, last week, after an uneventful 2700 miles trip. The highlights of my third FDIM was certainly meeting faces, some new, others familiar. Many fine builders, extraordinary designers and enthusiastic QRP'ers. To name a few: -Jim Kortge who clarified several questions that I had on his 2N2/20 design. -Craig Johnson,whose designs are amazing, always appears so cool. -I could'nt wait to tell Chuck Adams that his tagline Moving to Arizona? Bring your own water. needed revision. During a winter trip in his area, I encountered the worst rain, snow and hailstorm of my lifetimeand the desert was green. But I still enjoy his cw mp3 recordings. -Don Wilhelm who helped me learn, during the construction of my K2, that red toroids were not grey! -Tom Hammond who took the time and effort to demonstrate how to adjust filters on the K2 with the Spectogram program. -Paul Harden, whose Data Book is a precious tool, enlightened us on the sunny side of ham radio. -The banquet that let me leave the tent with a fine MP-1 portable antenna and meeting it's creator. -Last but not least, meeting fellow canadian QRP'ers, some familiar but a few new ones. As Chuck Adams noted in his report, this was priceless. Regarding the other event, I never have enough steam, time or money to explore it completely. However, the Elecraft booth had T1 kits in stock. I was not able to resist. Diz always has parts that I might need someday. With the help of other vendors, my backpack was eventually filled two times. My hope of finding ADE-1 mixers, for the 2N2/20, at the Mini Circuit booth was rather dampened. They had rolls of mixers but for UHF! This was a bit of a letdown. The XYL and God willing, I hope to be there again next year. I see no problem with the XYL due to the nearby fine mall. But when you pass the three quarters of a century mark, other factors can be expected to enter the equation sooneven with a positive attitude! My thanks to the organizers and to all those that make these four days an event to be remembered. 72, Laurie, VE1AWJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K1 vs KX1
Thanks Ron, and everyone else who replied; interesting, and this link here has a wealth of other stuff besides this article... 73 de W5SV, Dave... Ron Pfeiffer wrote: Found this on the internet: http://www.qrp-canada.com/A%20comparison%20of%20the%20Elecraft%20KX1%20and%20K1%20rigs.htm _ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement -- David F. Reed - W5SV - cell: 512 585-1057 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Installing the K2 TILT BAIL - The easy way!
Hi Folks: At 10:20 AM 6/2/2005, \RC\ KC5WA wrote: I have reached that portion in the RF Board Assembly titled Alignment and Test, Part I on page 42. Everything to this point has been a breeze ( exception being the Tilt Bail, [it took an hour to install] which I believe was designed to satisfy a designers twisted mind [g] ) rc kc5wa I've posted this method several times over the past several years, but it appears that another posting might be in order. One of the true TESTS of the Elecraft builder's good nature is the installation of one of those (damned) tilt bails!!! They are terribly stiff and will try anyone's patience. After a couple years of periodic frustration, here's how I now do it... One of the worst parts of installing the front feet and tilt bail on is trying to fight the bail while having such a small amount of working distance between the bottom cover of the radio and the feet. So... Initially, DO NOT use the 4-40 x 7/16 screws specified in the assembly manual. Find (somewhere) four (4) 4-40 x 1 screws and use them to install the feet AND the bail... this extra length gives you MORE than ample 'fighting room' when you are installing the bail. Once the long screws have been snugged down, and the feet and bail have been properly seated, replace (one-at-a-time) each of the longer 4-40 screws with the 4-40 x 7/16 screws specified in the manual. Since the feet and bail will be held securely in place by the remaining (already tightened) screws, replacement will be a snap and you won't have that overwhelming urge to heave the radio (or at least the bottom cover) up against the wall. Works fer me! 73, Tom Hammond N0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Installing the K2 TILT BAIL - The easy way!
- Original Message - From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: RC KC5WA [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 3:13 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Installing the K2 TILT BAIL - The easy way! Hi Folks: At 10:20 AM 6/2/2005, \RC\ KC5WA wrote: I have reached that portion in the RF Board Assembly titled Alignment and Test, Part I on page 42. Everything to this point has been a breeze ( exception being the Tilt Bail, [it took an hour to install] which I believe was designed to satisfy a designers twisted mind [g] ) rc kc5wa I've posted this method several times over the past several years, but it appears that another posting might be in order. One of the true TESTS of the Elecraft builder's good nature is the installation of one of those (damned) tilt bails!!! They are terribly stiff and will try anyone's patience. After a couple years of periodic frustration, here's how I now do it... One of the worst parts of installing the front feet and tilt bail on is trying to fight the bail while having such a small amount of working distance between the bottom cover of the radio and the feet. So... Initially, DO NOT use the 4-40 x 7/16 screws specified in the assembly manual. Find (somewhere) four (4) 4-40 x 1 screws and use them to install the feet AND the bail... this extra length gives you MORE than ample 'fighting room' when you are installing the bail. Once the long screws have been snugged down, and the feet and bail have been properly seated, replace (one-at-a-time) each of the longer 4-40 screws with the 4-40 x 7/16 screws specified in the manual. Since the feet and bail will be held securely in place by the remaining (already tightened) screws, replacement will be a snap and you won't have that overwhelming urge to heave the radio (or at least the bottom cover) up against the wall. Works fer me! 73, Tom Hammond N0SS Nice idea but why all the fuss? I just squeezed the ends before installation. It took only 1 try to find the balance between easy to install and stays put (up or down). The bonus is that my bail dosen't thump the bottom of the rig too hard when I put it up yet stays in place just fine, up or down. Still, clever idea with the screws. -- Just my 2¢ worth... 73's es gd dx de Ken KGØWX Grid EM17ip, Flying Pigs #-1055, Digital On Six #350, Proud builder owner of Elecraft K2 #4913 -- Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 267.4.1 - Release Date: 6/2/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: TAC Sprint 2005 Operation Plans
Ed, K3YTR myself will be operating from near the A.T. near PA-309. Both of us will have capability of operating from our vehicle if the weather precludes us from operating under the sky. Ed will primarily be on phone and I'll primarily be on CW near the designated QRP frequencies. We will be using the N3EPA callsign. contacts will count toward AT awards as well. Mark, NK8Q Subject: [EPA-QRP] WB3AAL's TAC Sprint 2005 Operation Plans Hello, I will be operating from the Appalachian Trail in PA during the TAC 2005 Sprint. Hopefully the weather is good so I can setup at my usual spot south of Route 183. If the weather is rain, which they are forecasting thunderstorms all day for our area, I will have to go to another location so I can operate from the car. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/XV-144 with sequencers
I was about to add a sequencer to the K2/XV-144 for use with JT-65 when I realized that while it was not a problem for computer control or PTT, that fully interchangeable operations between SSB, CW, and Computer control could be a bit of a hassle to implement cleanly. Since I want to be able to seamlessly switch modes on VHF and have antenna mounted preamps and high power amps, it would be nice if there was a clean solution. I know this has been discussed on the list before, but I was wondering if anyone has come up with a better solution set for this problem? (Elecraft, are you listening) Best regards to the group, Fletch De K3JYD FM18 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Bad LSB audio
Hi all, Not being a particularly active ham on SSB, I have toyed with it a bit on K2 4490 but bought the MD-2 mic and figured I would 'tune' the BFO to give me decent audio. I got a couple of 'horrible audio' reports which also drove the decision. I tested the BFO setting using an Orion fed into my computer so I could record and listen to myself as I tuned. I had to remove the coax and set the attenuator on the orion to keep the signal under S9 (I do have a K2/100). Trying to adjust the LSB setting on 40m, I honestly could not find a setting that was not very hollow and a bit tinny. It was very interesting seeing how senstive the audio was to theBFO setting, a slight adjustment could really mean a big difference. After achieving unsatisfactory result, I glumly did the USB setting on 20 meters. Oddly enough, it was almost spot on with the original setting and I believe yields decent (if not great) audio. I also noticed (without any scientific basis!) that I had to tune about 300-400 Hz low on LSB to achieve the best audio while on 20m it was again spot on with the frequency display of the K2. Any clues as to what could cause LSB to sound pretty bad while USB sound decent? Thanks Neal k3nc ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad LSB audio
Neal, It may be that your LSB BFO is not currently set anywhere close to the correct setting, and your efforts are being confounded by that situation. I recommend that you first re-do the LSB BFO setting in receive using Spectrogram and a noise generator. If your OP1 filter width is the older 2.1 kHz, set markers (pointers) at 300 and 2300 Hz and center the passband between them - if you have the newer 2.4 kHz width, use markers at 300 and 2600 Hz. After that, proceed with your on the air testing to improve it if possible - and move the BFO only a small bit at a time - and do not move the VFO on the K2 or the Orion while doing this procedure - just set the frequencies to match - assuming your K2 dial frequency is properly calibrated, check that by zeroing 10 MHz (or 15 MHz) WWV and see if the frequency display is correct. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Not being a particularly active ham on SSB, I have toyed with it a bit on K2 4490 but bought the MD-2 mic and figured I would 'tune' the BFO to give me decent audio. I got a couple of 'horrible audio' reports which also drove the decision. I tested the BFO setting using an Orion fed into my computer so I could record and listen to myself as I tuned. I had to remove the coax and set the attenuator on the orion to keep the signal under S9 (I do have a K2/100). Trying to adjust the LSB setting on 40m, I honestly could not find a setting that was not very hollow and a bit tinny. It was very interesting seeing how senstive the audio was to theBFO setting, a slight adjustment could really mean a big difference. After achieving unsatisfactory result, I glumly did the USB setting on 20 meters. Oddly enough, it was almost spot on with the original setting and I believe yields decent (if not great) audio. I also noticed (without any scientific basis!) that I had to tune about 300-400 Hz low on LSB to achieve the best audio while on 20m it was again spot on with the frequency display of the K2. Any clues as to what could cause LSB to sound pretty bad while USB sound decent? Thanks Neal k3nc ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 267.4.1 - Release Date: 6/2/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 267.4.1 - Release Date: 6/2/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 Hints Kinks - External Powered Speakers
On Thu, 2 Jun 2005, Art - W6KY wrote: Have you ever wondered what to do with those small (amplified) speakers from your old PC's? Perfect for a K1. They can also let you know when there's RF in the shack (g). 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/XV-144 with sequencers
Dave, Ben, and others; Thanks for the comments. Dave, I have a DEM sequencer and was planning to try it with the 8R mode - just had not really thought it out yet. I am very glad to hear that it is a good solution. Ben, one of the nice things about the DEM sequencer is that it is fully configurable for what ever you need. It will source, sink, or switch for each channel. PTT is either polarity. Definitely worth the tariff which is remarkably low to start with. I will add my comments as things progress. Thanks again Fletch De K3JYD FM18 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bad LSB audio
Problem solved by Dr. Don's recommendation. I also found that using spectrogram to set the tx bfo was helpful, you can really see where your signal is. Next frontier is rtty, but that will have to wait. Neal -Original Message- From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 11:35 PM To: Neal Campbell; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Bad LSB audio Neal, It may be that your LSB BFO is not currently set anywhere close to the correct setting, and your efforts are being confounded by that situation. I recommend that you first re-do the LSB BFO setting in receive using Spectrogram and a noise generator. If your OP1 filter width is the older 2.1 kHz, set markers (pointers) at 300 and 2300 Hz and center the passband between them - if you have the newer 2.4 kHz width, use markers at 300 and 2600 Hz. After that, proceed with your on the air testing to improve it if possible - and move the BFO only a small bit at a time - and do not move the VFO on the K2 or the Orion while doing this procedure - just set the frequencies to match - assuming your K2 dial frequency is properly calibrated, check that by zeroing 10 MHz (or 15 MHz) WWV and see if the frequency display is correct. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Not being a particularly active ham on SSB, I have toyed with it a bit on K2 4490 but bought the MD-2 mic and figured I would 'tune' the BFO to give me decent audio. I got a couple of 'horrible audio' reports which also drove the decision. I tested the BFO setting using an Orion fed into my computer so I could record and listen to myself as I tuned. I had to remove the coax and set the attenuator on the orion to keep the signal under S9 (I do have a K2/100). Trying to adjust the LSB setting on 40m, I honestly could not find a setting that was not very hollow and a bit tinny. It was very interesting seeing how senstive the audio was to theBFO setting, a slight adjustment could really mean a big difference. After achieving unsatisfactory result, I glumly did the USB setting on 20 meters. Oddly enough, it was almost spot on with the original setting and I believe yields decent (if not great) audio. I also noticed (without any scientific basis!) that I had to tune about 300-400 Hz low on LSB to achieve the best audio while on 20m it was again spot on with the frequency display of the K2. Any clues as to what could cause LSB to sound pretty bad while USB sound decent? Thanks Neal k3nc ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 267.4.1 - Release Date: 6/2/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 267.4.1 - Release Date: 6/2/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 Power Requirements
Anyone know from experience how long a 75 amp hour marine battery will last in typical contest conditions running SSB K2/100W? Thanks John [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 vs KX1
Dave wrote: I am interested in your opinions on the differences between the K-1 and KX-1 transceivers, beyond the band coverage issues; for example, which has the better receiver? I built my K1 (#175) in November, 2000, for backpack portable use. If I were buying a rig today, now that the KX1 is available, I'd still go for the K1. The band coverage issue *is* important. From the start, I'll take a rig that covers 15m over one that does not...end of story. When open, 15m is the finest of QRP bands. With my K1, I can cover six HF CW bands with two officially available filter boards (160, 12, 10 meters aren't available from Elecraft). The K1 has a better IF filter (four-pole, bandwidth variable in three adjustable steps). The lack of the characteristic spurious output of a DDS local oscillator also improves overall receiver performance. The K1 has a decent internal speaker (if the KBT1 option isn't installed) with plenty of audio output. The K1 has a better transmitter with the best (lowest) spurious output of any Elecraft rig (including the K2). It can also be set for significantly higher power output than the KX1. The K1 has a much wider range auto antenna tuner. The K1 has a noise blanker option, though I've found it to be of limited effectiveness and wouldn't miss it if it were gone. The K1 VFO tuning is continuous rather than in the incremental steps of a DDS. The K1 has its controls on the front, where they should be. Top-mounted controls as trail-friendly is something of a left-coast idea, IMHO. It is harder to protect the controls on the KX1 in a backpack than it is on the K1. Why someone hasn't come up with a clamshell cover for the KX1 yet, I don't understand. I've used direct DDS rigs before (I have three DSW monoband rigs) and enjoy them, but I prefer a multiband rig to concentrate on ham CW band performance. If ham CW band performance is the most important criteria, then the K1 wins over the KX1 without question except on the issue of VFO stability. You just can't hardly beat a DDS for stability. Still, the KX1 is very frequency stable and small, and has that shortwave coverage with selectable sidebands. Plus, it's kind of cute. It stole the spotlight away from the K1, with some even reporting the KX1 (incorrectly) as an improvement upon or a replacement for the K1. In short, I really like the K1. I like it better than the K2. But...if the K1 wasn't available, I'd definitely get a KX1 as my second choice. They are both fine rigs, so you really can't make that much of a mistake either way. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 Power Requirements
Actually, I had a question that is in a similar vein. I bought a buddipole, and plan on taking my K2/100 camping. I began to research batteries, such as gell cell and glass matt batteries, and solar charging. My guess is that I might operate about 4 to 5 hours per day, running up to the full gallon. Operating modes would be SSB, CW and while my laptop batteries held up, PSK. I also plan on being out in the woods for probably a week at a time. There is so much on the web, I just cannot separate out what would work, from overkill. In spite of reading several treatises, I still am not sure whether I would want a gell cell or a glass matt battery. My question (finally) - I'd like to hear from people on the list who have a battery/solar recharging system that works well and will run the K2/100 for the 4 to 5 hours per day, listing the components he or she is using. Given the size and weight of batteries, I had hoped to use a 36 Ah battery, and then recharge it with solar power. But it seems that these batteries charge rather slowly, and that might not be possible. For example, I think it is powerportstore.com that has a 1.2 amp flexible solar panel recharger that puts out approximately 5.6 - 7 Ah per day. The solar panel is about $ 500.00.The general size/weight and price is ok, but it doesn't appear that such output would be sufficient to fully recharge a big battery. I think I'd rather duplicate what has worked for someone else, than try to reinvent the wheel.Thanks in advance. Tom W6EIJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 14, Issue 3 -- Transverter Sequencer
I am working on a keying scheme/sequencer that will work with several different model radios, and also function to safely provide excitation drive and over-drive protection. It is not oriented toward the Elecraft radios but, I am keeping them in mind as well. Let me know if you don’t find a more specific answer! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
