[Elecraft] K1-2040
Hi all, I am now building RF Boar, Part I. I have to install ceramic trimmer capacitors (C13 and C20). The flattened side must be oriented towards the flattened side of the component outline, but the outline on my board is not clear enough. Can some one help me to find which side of the component outline is flattened? Thank you in advance. 73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] stranger than real life
What are kids taught in US schools these days? In the UK, it's unlikely that anybody under the age of 25 or so knows what an inch, foot, yard, pound or ounce is. -- Nigel A. Gunn. 59 Beadlemead, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HF, England. Tel +44 (0)1908 604004 e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] wwwhttp://www.ngunn.net or http://www.ngunn.demon.co.uk Amateur radio stations G8IFF, KC8NHF Member of AMSAT-UK #182, ARRL, GQRP Club, QRPARCI, SOC #548 RAYNET Flying Pig #385, Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691, ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M
Almost finished with my KPA100. Power output is 100 watts on all bands except 30M where I get hi current display over 55 watts. Any suggestions? Jonathan Gottlieb WA3WDK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1-2040
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Strange, I am at the same point (SN 2033) and have the same question. The outline on the circuit board for C13 and C20 does not have a flat side I can see. Any one have the top cover of the K1 off ? Look at Appendix F in the manual. In my manual the flat side of C13 and C20 is pointing to the back edge of the board. But to be on the safe side, look in your own manuals. 73 de SM0RVV ./Erik K1 #1978 K2 #4904 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] stranger than real life
In a message dated 6/12/05 11:44:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What are kids taught in US schools these days? In the UK, it's unlikely that anybody under the age of 25 or so knows what an inch, foot, yard, pound or ounce is. My kids know both systems. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M
Hi Jonathan: You may well have joined the group. But first... Make sure that you can get at least 10 watts output on all bands with the KPA100 turned Off in the menu. Then you should recheck the power calibration procedure for the KPA100 unless you are very confident that it is correct. If both of those check out OK, then you are probably experiencing the same thing that several others (with you I think there are now 9) that are having pretty much the same problem. Elecraft and the designer are working on the problem and I'm sure there will be a solution soon. In the meantime, one of the things that has worked for some is to increase the capacitance at C80 and C81 between T1 and the bases of the PA transistor. Some have changed to 5600 pF, some have added another 4700 pF, and I ended up adding 2200 pF. One ham in England who had the problem replaced C80 and C81 with new 4700 pF caps from Elecraft and the problem remained. He then purchased locally and installed replacement new metal film resistors to replace R19 and R20 and new 4700 pF caps to replace C80 and C81 and the problem was completely resolved for him. It suggests that the provided resistors may have enough inductance to resonate with the 4700 pF cap and create a trap at around 10 MHz. I encourage you to report the problem to Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] so that they are aware that there is another builder with this problem. 73, Ken K3IU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gottlieb, Jonathan Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 12:12 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M Almost finished with my KPA100. Power output is 100 watts on all bands except 30M where I get hi current display over 55 watts. Any suggestions? Jonathan Gottlieb WA3WDK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KIO2 DB9 Threaded Studs
Hi all, I know I am always missing stuff in the manuals, but I have looked and not found the answer to this question. I am installing the KIO2 in my K2 #402 and the two threaded studs that connect the female DB9 connector to the chassis at the rear have a threaded shaft portion which is 3/16 inch long. This will clearly thread past the top of the hex nuts and run into the side of the circuit board. I am _sure_ (;o) yeah!) I installed the board to the db9 correctly. I am ready to take a dremel cut off disc to the threaded shafts to shorten them. But this can't be the first time this has happened, so I am thinking I goofed somewhere. How about it? Thanks, Steve, W2MY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M
I am a bit mystified by the reports of low power on 30M. I have K2 #4028 and bought my KPA-100 at the time I purchased my K2. Barefoot on 30M, I have 15w out (measured) and QRO a good solid 100W (measured). If I choose to observe power out in TUNE, the K2 will cut the power to around 55W, but coming out of tune and closing the key will get me a good solid 100W. I have not experienced a problem with overcurrent. I wonder what has changed in the more recently delivered KPA100s to cause the problem? Just for grins, I switched in the dummy load and on 30M with the POWER control at full throttle, I can bump 3.5 amps according to the K2 current display. And as reported above, a rock solid 100W. Just curious. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] The K2 and Random Antennas
Good Morning, Group, I'm about to order my K2 and I have a load of questions, but just one for now. I am presently restricted to a random wire (perhaps 60 feet or so - OK, about 20 meters) sloping up to the top of a tree. I am feeding this with 50 feet of RG-8 and have a ground system consisting of two 1/4 wave wires for 40 through 10. Will the K2 and the KAT2 tuner handle this antenna? Anyone have similar setups? Thanks es 73 Tom, W3QS [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 DB9 Threaded Studs
Steve, When the KIO2 is mounted on the rear panel, the threads do not protrude through the nut. Yes, what you say is true if you look at it without the panel thickness under the shoulders of the studs. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am installing the KIO2 in my K2 #402 and the two threaded studs that connect the female DB9 connector to the chassis at the rear have a threaded shaft portion which is 3/16 inch long. This will clearly thread past the top of the hex nuts and run into the side of the circuit board. I am _sure_ (;o) yeah!) I installed the board to the db9 correctly. I am ready to take a dremel cut off disc to the threaded shafts to shorten them. But this can't be the first time this has happened, so I am thinking I goofed somewhere. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.9 - Release Date: 6/11/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M
Hi Jim: Looks to me like your KPA100 is working just fine. When I press Tune the power on mine gets reduced to 20 watts so long as the power commanded is greater than 20 watts. I just checked it with the output going directly to a dummy load and with the KAT100 disconnected. If you first tap the Display button to show volts and amps, then pressing the Tune button will produce the commanded power out and not be limited to 20 watts. I have no idea why you are getting the 55 watts when you press Tune g 73, Ken K3IU At 02:49 PM 6/12/2005, James T. \Jim\ Rogers, W4ATK wrote: I am a bit mystified by the reports of low power on 30M. I have K2 #4028 and bought my KPA-100 at the time I purchased my K2. Barefoot on 30M, I have 15w out (measured) and QRO a good solid 100W (measured). If I choose to observe power out in TUNE, the K2 will cut the power to around 55W, but coming out of tune and closing the key will get me a good solid 100W. I have not experienced a problem with overcurrent. I wonder what has changed in the more recently delivered KPA100s to cause the problem? Just for grins, I switched in the dummy load and on 30M with the POWER control at full throttle, I can bump 3.5 amps according to the K2 current display. And as reported above, a rock solid 100W. Just curious. Jim, W4ATK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] The K2 and Random Antennas
Tom W3QS wrote: I'm about to order my K2 and I have a load of questions, but just one for now. I am presently restricted to a random wire (perhaps 60 feet or so - OK, about 20 meters) sloping up to the top of a tree. I am feeding this with 50 feet of RG-8 and have a ground system consisting of two 1/4 wave wires for 40 through 10. Will the K2 and the KAT2 tuner handle this antenna? Anyone have similar setups? How are you feeding the wire, Tom? At the end or the center? Since you are using coax, I'm guessing you are planning on center feed. That is, you are erecting a doublet fed with coax. If so, then you will experience very high relative losses in your coax. The antenna will show a lot of reactance on all bands except maybe 40 and 15 meters if you can get 66 feet of wire up. A 66 foot wire is self-resonant at 40 meters. That is, it will show very little reactance. The impedance at the center will be resistive and somewhere in the vicinity of 50 ohms - a good match for 50 ohm coax. It will show another resonance at about 21 MHz (15 meters) where it will again show a decent match for coax. On the other bands the SWR will be very high and so your coaxial line losses will be very high. Most operators using a non-resonant doublet like that will choose open wire line or 450 ohm ladder line to minimize these losses. Those lines have much, much lower losses than coax primarily because of the lower SWR on the line. For example, if you have a 60-something foot radiator fed at the center, on 20 meters it will be close to two half waves, presenting a very high impedance at the center feed point. In the practical world, the impedance will probably be something on the order of 2000 or 2500 ohms, maximum. If you connect 50 ohm coaxial line to the center, the SWR will be 40:1. If you use 450 ohm ladder line the SWR will be about 5:1. That's a huge difference that will save you a lot of RF being wasted as heat in the coax. If you simply cannot run the ladder line or open wire line all the way to the rig, use a short piece of coax for the final few feet, but keep it as short as possible. Connect one side of the ladder line to the center insulator and the other to the braid. The coax simply makes a shielded wire to run the last few feet. If your feed line is in the clear running up to the antenna, I'd not bother one bit about trying to balance it with a balun. Baluns are unpredictable and often lossy in lines with high SWR. Just hook one side of the feeder to the center pin of the antenna connector and the other side to the ground. If you want to try a balun, put it at the end of the open wire section of your feed line. I'd recommend using a 1:1 balun although sometimes if you have a very high impedance at the end of the open wire feeder, a 4:1 balun will bring the value down into the range for the tuner. If you are feeding your 60-something foot wire at one end, don't use coax at all. Just bring the end to the center pin at the ATU output. Avoid running the line any distance inside the house. It may cause RFI and pick up noise from wiring and appliances. To 'ground' your rig effectively, connect a 1/4 wave long wire to the case of your rig for each band you are operating on. The ground wires must be insulated at the far end. They will be hot with RF at the ends. You can run them indoors (along baseboards, etc) or outside. Just be careful to keep the ends insulated and away from people and pets. They can inflict an RF burn if touched while transmitting. You mentioned 40-10. If you can put up 60+ feet of wire, you'll find that it will work FB on 80 meters as well, either center fed or end fed. The Elecraft tuners have excellent matching ranges, with the exception of perhaps the built-in KX1 ATU. The KX1 ATU was designed to fit in a tiny space, so it doesn't offer the wide range of the other Elecraft tuners. It is possible to arrange an antenna they can't match on one or more bands because of the impedance extremes. The usual way to deal with that is to change the length of your feedline. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] The K2 and Random Antennas
Tom, The KAT2 should adequately match the antenna system that you have, but I would recommend that you scrap the coax and feed it with open wire line because the feedpoint impedance on 40 meters and above should be a lot greater than 50 ohms - the line losses and SWR on the feedline should be rather high. BTW, you could add a couple radials cut for 80 meters and use it on that band too - the 60 ft wire is almost a quarter wave on 80 and it should behave similar to a 60 ft high vertical (with some horizontal radiation too depending on how much it slopes) 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I'm about to order my K2 and I have a load of questions, but just one for now. I am presently restricted to a random wire (perhaps 60 feet or so - OK, about 20 meters) sloping up to the top of a tree. I am feeding this with 50 feet of RG-8 and have a ground system consisting of two 1/4 wave wires for 40 through 10. Will the K2 and the KAT2 tuner handle this antenna? Anyone have similar setups? Thanks es 73 Tom, W3QS -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.9 - Release Date: 6/11/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] where to search information
sometimes it is hard to find specific information, I am trying to understand the relationship between power out put and antenna length and its line losses . example: suppose I have a random length of wire hook-up of 20 meters (ok, would that be 60 feet) and I have two watts output. if I shorten the wire to 10 meters what will my watts output be, frequency would stay the same for this example. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KSB2
Hello guys, I installed the KSB2 option this afternoon and found out that I did'nt have any modulation. The RX part seems to work although I did not test it completely. In TX there is no modulation. I checked the microphone (MH2) which looked OK (except that the screw to lock the inner connector part with the metal shell was missing). I started to go for the troubleshooting list. Checked the components once more, which seems to be placed correctly. When measuring voltages from the chart, I found a significant difference at U1-16 (=U2-8) which is 0V instead of 6.0V in RX mode. I don't have any idea what to do with this. I checked for a short circuit but it looks like that's not the case. What to do? any suggestion is welcome. Evert, PA2KW (K2 #4836) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] The K2 and Random Antennas
Tom I would agree with Don! The K2 KAT2 should match it great . with or without the radials. When I was a young General in about 1959 or 60 I had great luck on 80 20 AM with a 60 - 65' longwire from the second floor window out to a tree. The shack was on the first floor with about 40 ft of coax of questionable quality, and I used a tuner. (WRL Globe Chief 90, homebrew cathode modulator, WRL tuner and an SX-99 and a homebrew TR switch). The more OT's that told me it shouldn't work, especially with no ground, the better it seemed to work! Give it a try and be sure to report back when you put the K2 KAT2 on it. 72 73HankK8DD W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: Tom, The KAT2 should adequately match the antenna system that you have, but I would recommend that you scrap the coax and feed it with open wire line because the feedpoint impedance on 40 meters and above should be a lot greater than 50 ohms - the line losses and SWR on the feedline should be rather high. BTW, you could add a couple radials cut for 80 meters and use it on that band too - the 60 ft wire is almost a quarter wave on 80 and it should behave similar to a 60 ft high vertical (with some horizontal radiation too depending on how much it slopes) 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I'm about to order my K2 and I have a load of questions, but just one for now. -- 'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.' -anon ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] (no subject)
Hello, There's a bunch of covered bridges on the air and I just worked them. Go get them on 7.243.5 mhz 72, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Amateur Radio License, book, KX1
Hi Chuck, Building the KX1 was a trip and 1/2. I also wrote to ARRL about meters and feet, I got three letters back. One said that the metric system is the official system in the US since 1975, but others systems are allowed. What ever that means. I think it hurts our exports. My Chevy, I need two sets of wrenches. I believe in KISS KISS, (keep it simple stupid) not all of us are Einstein. There is a few things that the ARRL book Amateur Radio License gets confusing, example: it says you need a good ground, but a few pages later it says you need a counterpoise, that is a wire laying on the ground. So for the first test transmit I attached the radio to a eight foot copper coated ground rod the same type used for electrical grounding. No one heard my CQ. next I laid out thirty feet of wire on the ground and put 60 feet in the tree still I could hear my self on my Sony but very faint. So I .. a.s.s.u.m.e.. that the ground is the same as a counterpoise Some of the feedback I have been getting has really helpful and its good fun too. I will try again at 7PM EST on Monday and then again on Tuesday. Mike ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] where to search information
mc, There is no relationship between power output (measured at the transmitter end) and the antenna length. Any antenna will radiate, and all the power produced by the transmitter is radiated - losses may occur most anywhere (and everywhere) in the system, in the feedline, in the ohmic characteristics of the antenna, in losses due to absorbsion by objects near the antenna. We normally don't consider the losses by absorbtion until the frequency is well above the HF bands because it gets worse as the frequency increases (feedline loss does too). Part of the answer depends on how every part is matched to the other parts. The RF power radiated by the antenna will be the power produced by the transmitter minus the power absorbed by all the loss contributors - so the real answer to your question is that it all depends on your specific antenna system. The antenna, its positioning, and the feedline are all a part of your antenna system, and must be considered together. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- sometimes it is hard to find specific information, I am trying to understand the relationship between power out put and antenna length and its line losses . example: suppose I have a random length of wire hook-up of 20 meters (ok, would that be 60 feet) and I have two watts output. if I shorten the wire to 10 meters what will my watts output be, frequency would stay the same for this example. ___ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.9 - Release Date: 6/11/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] where to search information
mc asked: sometimes it is hard to find specific information, I am trying to understand the relationship between power out put and antenna length and its line losses . example: suppose I have a random length of wire hook-up of 20 meters (ok, would that be 60 feet) and I have two watts output. if I shorten the wire to 10 meters what will my watts output be, frequency would stay the same for this example. The power delivered to the antenna would still be 10 watts, mc. Now, what would the strength of the electromatic field produced by the antenna be? That's a tougher question that requires some exotic measurements usually well beyond the capabilities of Radio Amateurs. In the first place, such measurements require a stable area over which to make them that extends for at least several wavelengths in all directions! Even commercial companies where I've worked, such as Sylvania Electronic Systems, tested antennas on a range a few hundred yards across by scaling down antenna designs to VHF size. That's why Hams are allowed to estimate the Effective Radiated Power (ERP) in the one instance where we are required to do so: operation the shared 60 meter frequencies. The ERP is a function of the Antenna and the environment in which it is used. For evaluation, many antennas are presumed to be in free space. That makes calculations easier but it's very hard to put an antenna in free space on a city lot. Besides the earth can actually help in certain circumstances. It can double the ERP of a horizontal dipole for either long-distance skip or short skip (near vertical incidence) communications, for example, depending upon the height of the antenna. Antennas smaller than a 1/2 wavelength - the smallest self resonant antenna - suffer from ohmic losses mostly. As the antenna is made smaller, the circulating currents in the conductors increases very rapidly. RF travels only in the very surface of a conductor, so the resistance of a conductor is usually much, much greater at RF than it would be for direct current. That's why very thin tubing is as good a solid copper for RF, and why a very thin layer of gold or silver plating greatly helps conductivity at RF. The day we can buy cheap, room-temperature semiconductors we'll have really efficient small antennas! Another area of losses is the earth itself. If the earth is near an antenna, the antenna will induce RF currents in the earth. The earth is a relatively lousy conductor, as poking your ohmmeter probes into even a damp garden soil will disclose. The RF currents in the earth are almost all used for warming the worms. This is a particular problem when using a Marconi antenna - a 1/4 wave antenna working against ground. Heavy RF current will try to flow from the ground connection. Without a lot of help, almost all of this power will be lost in heat. The losses skyrocket at the antenna is made shorter than 1/4 wavelength and the currents get stronger. A short whip such as you see on a car or a pedestrian mobile uses may lose 95%, or more, of the RF in the earth with only 5% being radiated. Historically broadcast stations, which use Marconi antennas that are short electrically in spite of their physical size, use very extensive ground radial systems. The old standard ground was 120 0.2 wavelength long radials extending from the base of the antenna. Such radials intercept the RF wave and cause current to flow in the wire instead of through the lossy earth. Conversely, if you end fed a 1/2 wavelength wire, it will show a voltage loop at the end so almost no RF current will flow there. It will show a very high RF voltage but almost no current. So a ground becomes almost unimportant in such a setup, although some grounding is usually needed to keep the whole rig from being 'hot' with RF voltage. Antenna and antenna efficiency is probably one of the least-understood, hardest to measure and, for many of us, one of the most interesting areas of Amateur Radio. There are a number of excellent books on antenna theory and practice out there. Two of my personal favorites are as Heye's (G3BDQ) little volume Practical Wire Antennas and Moxon's detailed manual HF Antennas for All Locations. Both of these are published by the RSGB and available through the ARRL. Heye's book is more nuts and bolts ideas and descriptions of popular antennas with little math, where Moxon takes a much more rigorous engineering look at subject. In addition there's the ARRL Antenna Handbook available through the ARRL and through Elecraft (www.elecraft.com). One tool that's been invaluable to hams doing thought experiments about antennas are the antenna simulation programs that run on a PC such as EZNEC by Roy Lewellan (W7EL): see: www.eznec.com. One thing to keep in mind about these simulators: they are based on what we know about antenna behavior and theory. Any errors in the theory, assumptions or conditions will be an error in the predicted performance. Still,
RE: [Elecraft] The K2 and Random Antennas
Thanks for all the replies. Leaves me with a lot of questions. My shack is located in the basement, and the only way to get RF out is by a rather circuitous route through a couple of walls, so I don't think open wire line is possible. The antenna wire is then fed at the ground end. If I shorted braid-to-center at the rig and fed the whole thing as a wire I have a problem with where to put the counterpoise. I don't have room for radials attached to the case of the rig, and don't have direct access to earth-ground. I gather mismatch at the feed point is the major concern, so do ya think something like the par electronic end-fed 'dipole' would be better? Bennie, any idea when the DLRDLL-EndFedZ will be available? Tom -Original Message- From: Hank Kohl K8DD [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 4:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: tom.w3qs; Subject: Re: [Elecraft] The K2 and Random Antennas Tom I would agree with Don! The K2 KAT2 should match it great . with or without the radials. When I was a young General in about 1959 or 60 I had great luck on 80 20 AM with a 60 - 65' longwire from the second floor window out to a tree. The shack was on the first floor with about 40 ft of coax of questionable quality, and I used a tuner. (WRL Globe Chief 90, homebrew cathode modulator, WRL tuner and an SX-99 and a homebrew TR switch). The more OT's that told me it shouldn't work, especially with no ground, the better it seemed to work! Give it a try and be sure to report back when you put the K2 KAT2 on it. 72 73HankK8DD W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: Tom, The KAT2 should adequately match the antenna system that you have, but I would recommend that you scrap the coax and feed it with open wire line because the feedpoint impedance on 40 meters and above should be a lot greater than 50 ohms - the line losses and SWR on the feedline should be rather high. BTW, you could add a couple radials cut for 80 meters and use it on that band too - the 60 ft wire is almost a quarter wave on 80 and it should behave similar to a 60 ft high vertical (with some horizontal radiation too depending on how much it slopes) 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I'm about to order my K2 and I have a load of questions, but just one for now. -- 'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.' -anon ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Can MFJ PS be cleaned up?
I wsa given an MFJ-1317 PS, rated to supply 2.89A at 13.8VDC. However, this is apparently not one of the lucky ones, and it puts out lots of hash. I put several ferrite cores on both the input and output lines, with little improvement - the hash appears to be coming through the case. Has anyone had any luck cleaning up one of these? Also, it's not obvious how to open the case, and before I use brute force, does anyone have any hints? TIA, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] The K2 and Random Antennas
Tom wrote: My shack is located in the basement, and the only way to get RF out is by a rather circuitous route through a couple of walls, so I don't think open wire line is possible. The antenna wire is then fed at the ground end. If I shorted braid-to-center at the rig and fed the whole thing as a wire I have a problem with where to put the counterpoise. I don't have room for radials attached to the case of the rig, and don't have direct access to earth-ground. Sounds like the way to go is to center fed a dipole with coax. Even if you have to fiddle around with the path of the coax so it runs parallel with the antenna for a while to get to the center, just keep it as far from the radiator as possible before running up to the center point of the radiator. Now, you must keep the SWR within reason. There's a couple of ways to do this that work pretty well and don't need to cost much, will provide you with coverage of at least 40/20/15 and 10, and, perhaps, some of the other bands in between as well. First, if you can get 66 feet of wire up there (even if the ends have to droop down or run off a an angle from the insulators for a bit to make the length) you are all set. That's a 1/2 wave on 40 and 3/2 waves on 15. That provides a decent match to minimize feeder losses on 40 and 15. Now you can connect in parallel with that dipole two more dipoles: one is 33 feet long and one 16 feet long. If you don't have other attachment points, just let them droop below the 66 foot dipole and, after the end insulators, tie them off to the 66 foot radiator. An easy way to do that is to use monofilament fishing line at the ends of each radiator. It's a great, lightweight insulator. The three antennas will interact somewhat, but the system will show a usably low SWR on 40,20,15 and 10 meters. Your ATU will probably load them up on the WARC bands as well, although the SWR may be fairly high there. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 72?
I have seen this only on this Elecraft list. It's not something that I know and probably Modesty and Willie didn't. What does '72' mean? Ian -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] 72?
I think it's a very low power 73, as in a QRP 73. Someone will correct me if I'm normal (er, ah, wrong). Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip What does '72' mean? /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 72?
Some QRP enthusiasts adopted it as a special version of 73 (Best Regards) to identify a QRP station. I'm sure it's intended as a QRPer's Best Regards and not as, Best Regards, only a little lessG Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ian Stirling G4ICV, AB2GR Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 3:14 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] 72? I have seen this only on this Elecraft list. It's not something that I know and probably Modesty and Willie didn't. What does '72' mean? Ian -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 72?
On Sunday 12 June 2005 06:14 pm, Ian Stirling G4ICV, AB2GR wrote: I have seen this only on this Elecraft list. It's not something that I know and probably Modesty and Willie didn't. What does '72' mean? A qrp'er saying 73's (confusing, ain't it?) Don't know how it started but if someone signs 72's they are a qrp station saying yep, 73's.. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 sn4618 for sale
Hi to all, I guess I have spent too much time without heating up the soldering iron, and I plan to start building again. My recently built K2 sn4618 with the following options is for sale. KPA100 KNB2 KSB2 K160RX KAF2 QRP upper cover configuration and all the Elecraft supplied accessories and documentation also included. Of course the radio was built with professional standards and is 100% cosmetically and operationally. Price: $1150 shipped to CONUS. If interested, please email me off the list. Thanks, 73 Marinos, ki4gin ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 72?
I believe that RV3GM coined the term years ago as wishing you good QRP 72 73HankK8DD Ian Stirling G4ICV, AB2GR wrote: I have seen this only on this Elecraft list. It's not something that I know and probably Modesty and Willie didn't. What does '72' mean? Ian -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- 'Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level then beat you with experience.' -anon ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] grounding and counterpoise
what do people do in airplanes and boats where there is no ground or counterpoise possible,,, In metal planes and boats does the metal frame shield the signal from going anywhere or does the antenna have to be on the out side of the vehicle, on the 40 and 30 and 20 meter bands that is. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] grounding and counterpoise
mc asked: what do people do in airplanes and boats where there is no ground or counterpoise possible,,, In metal planes and boats does the metal frame shield the signal from going anywhere or does the antenna have to be on the out side of the vehicle, on the 40 and 30 and 20 meter bands that is. Boats can have an excellent ground with a metallic connection to the water. Also, the water surrounding the boat (especially salt water) is the lowest-loss ground you can ever find! That minimizes ground losses in the near field, which is the biggest drawback to using a vertical antenna (remember, that's why most standard broadcast antennas use 120 radials surrounding their antennas. It's also why you see so many broadcast towers near salt water on coastal cities!). Thanks to the excellent ground properties of water, boats tend to 'get out' extremely well with only a basic, simple antenna. Also, notice the DX-peditions that like to set up on the shore of an island! Using simple vertical antennas they can work the world with excellent signals. Airplanes with medium or high frequency radios work the antenna against the metal aircraft fuselage. In some cases a trailing wire antenna is used. This is a wire that reels out from the rear of the aircraft and sails along behind the plane in the air. A 1/2 wave of wire provides a very efficient ground independent antenna since it takes little current: it is a voltage-fed antenna. Of course, it's important to wind in the wire before landing. Compromise MH/HF antennas were also constructed by running a wire from the radio operator's position up near the cockpit, out through the fuselage at the top, back to an insulator at the top of the vertical fin, and then down an insulator near one wing tip. It worked quite well, not as well as most trailing wires, but didn't require reeling in to land. Perhaps the most famous aircraft antenna is the Zeppelin antenna, which Hams now abbreviate to the Zepp. Most heavier-than-air aircraft are very small, so the radio was very close to the skin of the airplane and only a short run of wire was needed to get outside'. But a Zeppelin is BIG! They needed a way to run a trailing wire antenna, and connect the END of the trailing wire to the radio inside the airframe with a minimum of radiation between the transmitter and the end of the trailing wire. The solution was to run balanced feeders from the transmitter to the END of a 1/2 wave antenna. At the antenna, one feeder connected to the end of the radiator and the other feeder simply stopped at an insulator. At first glance one would think this would produce a very unbalanced situation and so promote a lot of feeder radiation. Not so. First, the antenna is 1/2 wave long, so it's voltage fed. Very little current flows at the point where the feeder connects to the antenna. Only a high RF voltage is present at that point. So the currents in the feeders are well-balanced with one side of the open wire line going to the antenna and the other side going only to an insulator. There is very little current on either side of the feeders at the end (only a small leakage through the insulator for the side not connected to the antenna). Normally the feeders were made 1/4 wavelength long, so the very high impedance at the end of the antenna was transformed into a low impedance at the transmitter, ensuring easy RF feed and without making the rig hot with RF in spite of there being no real ground connection. Most Ham Zepps today are not like the original Zeppelin antenna. Both the radiator and the feeder are usually whatever fits the space available. In that case it acts like a simply random wire with the feeder radiating about as much as the antenna, except on the frequency where the antenna is exactly 1/2 wave long. A common Ham variation is the double Zepp antenna, which is simply a wire with open wire fed at the center. Originally each side was 1/2 wave long, making the antenna a full wavelength overall. The feeder was made 1/4 wave long which ensured easy-to-handle low-impedance feed at the rig. That nicety in the design has been mostly lost today. Most hams will call any center fed wire using any length of open wire line a double Zepp antenna. Virtually all aircraft communications these days is by VHF/UHF where the body of the airplane is an excellent counterpoise or ground for a simple 1/4 wave long whip. On aircraft these take the form of either small aerodynamically-shaped blades that protrude from the plane. In some cases a dipole is used. These are usually mounted behind a fiberglass cover flush with the body of the aircraft. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help:
Re: [Elecraft] grounding and counterpoise
Hi Ron, You gave a nice summary of the antennas used on boats and aircraft in response to the question asked by mc. I especially enjoyed your description of the Zepp, an excellent but often misunderstood antenna. There are a few other antennas that have been and are used on airplanes that I have learned about over the years. In the late 1970s I was working at Bell Labs in NJ and got to work with ATT's air force regarding flight operations manuals and such. They flew a number airplanes including some Gulfstream 4s and several smaller corporate-type jets. In discussions with the pilots, some of whom had been pilots for the commercial airlines, these additional designs came to light. 1. The leading edge of the vertical stabilizer is typically an insulating strip that either contains a wire or metal bar that is used as a short vertical fed by a wide-range ATU that covers HF and/or VHF frequencies. 2. The insulated leading edge can instead be used to form a tunable slot antenna. The gap so formed is effectively embedded is a large, although not infinite, metal surface. The length of the slot and the position at which the slot is fed can be varied to adjust the resonant frequency and matching condition. 3. Just yesterday I was having lunch with a corporate pilot and a few other ham friends. He said another technique is to run a wire from near the front of the plane to the vertical stabilizer tip to form a loop consisting of the body of the plane and the wire. I presume the loop is fed by an ATU, probably installed inside the vertical stab or near the nose with one side tied to the plane's metal shell and the other to the wire. I'm sure there are many other ways to put an antenna on a boat or plane that we haven't mentioned yet, and others yet to be dreamed up. Cheers, Gus Hansen / KB0YH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 72?
If some signs 71 it is generally a QRPp ( less than a watt, KA8MaV is generally credited for this one) station Hank Kohl K8DD wrote: I believe that RV3GM coined the term years ago as wishing you good QRP 72 73HankK8DD Ian Stirling G4ICV, AB2GR wrote: I have seen this only on this Elecraft list. It's not something that I know and probably Modesty and Willie didn't. What does '72' mean? Ian -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.9 - Release Date: 6/11/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] grounding and counterpoise
Tnx Augie! Yes, my 'large' aircraft work involved mostly piston-engined stuff like B-50 bombers (B-29's on steroids) and RC-121s (Super-G Constellations) in the 1950's. I remember reading about the leading edge radiators, but I never worked with them. Jets that I worked on, like the F-86, F-101, etc., were a bit small for HF antennas G. Some aircraft I worked with did use the loop you mentioned with the wire to the top of the stab. That eliminated the tendency for the fuselage to shield the antenna from the ground too! I have always been impressed with the simple elegance of the original Zepp, once I learned how the feeders worked even with one side of the open wire feedline terminated in nothing, Hi! 73, Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] grounding and counterpoise - Zepp
Ron wrote: ... the most famous aircraft antenna is the Zeppelin antenna... balanced feeders from the transmitter to the END of a 1/2 wave antenna. At the antenna, one feeder connected to the end of the radiator and the other feeder simply stopped at an insulator... Most Ham Zepps today are not like the original Zeppelin antenna The common VHF/UHF J-pole antenna is the most commonly encountered Zepp antenna used by hams today. The J-pole has every characteristic of the HF wire version, except that it is usually stiff and vertical, and the coax section is usually attached mid-section in the matching section. Moxon's HF Antennas For All Locations book, pages 47 to 49, has some interesting and convincing observations on the Zepp which conclude that it should NOT work either theoretically or practically as it is typically depicted, were it not for the effect of stray capacitances to ground and between conductors in the matching section. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M
Is this a problem only on 30M? -rob N7QT - Original Message - From: Ken K3IU [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Gottlieb, Jonathan' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 11:29 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M Hi Jonathan: You may well have joined the group. But first... Make sure that you can get at least 10 watts output on all bands with the KPA100 turned Off in the menu. Then you should recheck the power calibration procedure for the KPA100 unless you are very confident that it is correct. If both of those check out OK, then you are probably experiencing the same thing that several others (with you I think there are now 9) that are having pretty much the same problem. Elecraft and the designer are working on the problem and I'm sure there will be a solution soon. In the meantime, one of the things that has worked for some is to increase the capacitance at C80 and C81 between T1 and the bases of the PA transistor. Some have changed to 5600 pF, some have added another 4700 pF, and I ended up adding 2200 pF. One ham in England who had the problem replaced C80 and C81 with new 4700 pF caps from Elecraft and the problem remained. He then purchased locally and installed replacement new metal film resistors to replace R19 and R20 and new 4700 pF caps to replace C80 and C81 and the problem was completely resolved for him. It suggests that the provided resistors may have enough inductance to resonate with the 4700 pF cap and create a trap at around 10 MHz. I encourage you to report the problem to Gary [EMAIL PROTECTED] so that they are aware that there is another builder with this problem. 73, Ken K3IU -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gottlieb, Jonathan Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 12:12 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Current on 30M Almost finished with my KPA100. Power output is 100 watts on all bands except 30M where I get hi current display over 55 watts. Any suggestions? Jonathan Gottlieb WA3WDK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net report for June 12-13th, 2005
Thank you folks for a happy 2nd anniversary. The bands were not happy but of no consequence to a true gamester ;) 7 quatloos on the human! My pre-net antenna raising attempts were stymied by a knot getting caught in a fir tree. My monofilament line snapped so I just raised it back to where it was. But my post-net attempt was much better. Now the SWR does not vary with the breeze. A fir tree grew and caused my G5RV to touch every once in a while. But now the doublet is slightly V'd and is about 15 feet higher. It is about 75 feet or so above the ground at the apex of a very, very shallow V. Tomorrow this will be tested by my faithful mentor in OKC. But, after a long digression, I will continue. Both nets had their share of the bad Q codes: QRN, QSB, and the ever dreaded QRM. But Tom helped me drag out a few from either coast on 20. On 40 meters QSB drove him off early. I know I missed a few because I simply could not drag you out of the background. In one case I simply dropped the ball and missed the call. KL?? I am sorry but that is all I got on 40 meters. On to the lists. On 14050 kHz at 2257z: N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008 Fluids, plenty of fluids!! Thanks Tom! N9IV - Russ - IN - K2 - 4650 KH6NO/W7 - Willie - NV - K1 - 1593 QNI #5 KB4ZVM - Dan - SC - ? - ? Welcome to ECN Dan. Sorry I missed your information though. WA9PLT - Bob - IL - K2 - 4084 K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608QNI #35 W0QQS - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646 Congratulations on the double graduation!! K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 I could just barely copy you Fred. Good thing Tom was around to help me. VE1RGB - Gary - NS - K2 - 2519 I copied you but not well enough to get more than your call. VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968Your signal had quite a bit of QSB on it; almost like a polar contact. On 7045 kHz at 0154z: N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008 KL??? - Relayed a station and disappeared into the sunset Gary Cooper style ;) W7MSX - Mike - ID - K2 - 4819 Fine signal and a fine fist!! Welcome to ECN. VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968QNI #65! W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031 50 years is something I can aspire to! I'll be ... older! WA7BOC - Roger - WA - K2 - 755 QNI #45 Fine signal this evening. N7AF - Dave - AZ - K2 - 4795 AF4LQ - Mike - KY - on a Norcal 40A running 2 watts. Once again I am sorry for all those I missed. I have a couple of partial calls in my notes but not enough to hang a call sign upon. I learned my lesson last week, however, no attribitions without a firm handle on the call! Please try again next week and we'll keep pulling for better conditions. The solar cycle will turn around some day so I hope to be a better operator by that time. Until then: 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.323 / Virus Database: 267.6.7 - Release Date: 6/10/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] grounding and counterpoise
Hello Ron! If you look at pictures of the old 707 or 720, you'll often see a stinger pointing forward from the top of the vertical stabilizer. This is an HF antenna. There was often a stinger pointing aft on a wingtip of a 747 (before the 400 series aircraft). This, too, was an HF antenna. The 707-style system worked pretty well; the 747-style had a *lot* of static due to bleed-off from the aircraft. The antenna became an extension of the airframe static dissipation system. This was (and is) a poor location... Lyle KK7P ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
