[Elecraft] KNB1 Kit
Hello everyone. I just joined the group lately and have been reading some of your emails. So far I have built a T1, KX1 # 1192, K2/100 # 5022 and several of the mini kits. I'm just starting K1 #2157. Everything worked ok except the K2 SSB board. I ended up having to buy another one to get it to work right. The first board worked ok except when I selected ALC metering and/or VOX. With either/both selected my voice peaks dropped about 40-50% no matter what the set power level. I replaced 11 components on that board and it still didn't work. The new board worked fine. The factory wasn't able to figure it out either and told me that there must be something very strange about that board. I must agree. Nothing visible. Harvey KN6VPNo virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.14.21/235 - Release Date: 1/19/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Antenna connector
Jean-Francois, Ther is no need to turn off the KPA100 in the menu - just remove the power from the KPA100 and power the base K2 at the coaxial power connector - the display will come up with 'No PA PS' when you power the base K2 and you will have the full 0.1 to 15.2 watt power range available. You can certainly take the output from the low power BNC, but I would not recommend it - you would be feeding the KPA100 input (still connected to the AUX RF connector) in parallel with your antenna load - that is just 'not right', so it would be best to take the output from the KPA100 SO-239 connector - the KPA100 will be in 'bypass' with only its Low Pass Filters and the wattmeter in the circuit. Note well that the wattmeter must be in the path to the antenna in order for the K2 to correctly control the power output - so by using the BNC connector, the wattmeter would not see the true output power and the microprocessor would be trying to set the power based on erroneous information being sent to it from the wattmeter residual data. Bottom line - use the SO-239 antenna output unless you completely remove the KPA100. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I would like to know if I use my K2 with the KPA-100 for outdoor > operation, and if I turn off the KPA-100 from the menu and also if I > powered my K2 from the samll DC connector instrad of the Powerpole > connector ... May I use the BNC antenna connector instead of using > the SO-239 antenna connector on the KPA-100 ??? > > 73 > > = > JEAN-FRANÇOIS MÉNARD / VA2VYZ > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] PLL Ref. Osc. Fixed
Stephanie, Congraulations on finding the source of your PLL problem - those intermittents can be quite nasty to find. It is likely that your low 8 volt regulator is causing your lower AGC Threshold. Actually I would recommend not worrying about it at this stage - but just make a note of it. Later, you may want to optimize the AGC Threshold so there is little or no difference in the receiver gain between AGC on and AGC off (with no antenna connected) - and that condition will assure you that the AGC is not reducing the receiver gain when there is no signal present. The optimum setting in my experience is between 3.65 and 3.8 volts, but it does vary from K2 to K2. The actual voltage on the 8v line will make a significant difference on the voltage available at the AGC Threshold measurement point. BTW - with the 8 volt regulator at 7.8 volts - that is only 2.5% less then the nominal voltage, so the regulator itself is operating within its spec even though that voltage is a bit lower than usual. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > Well I finally got the PLL reference oscillator to oscillate > consistently. > > I removed the crystal and found a tiny little sliver of metal > shorting one of the pins to the case. I don't think it was solder as > it wouldn't melt but I was able to pick it off with tweezers. I also > re-seated D18, it was sticking up just a little and might have been > shorting against the hardware that holds the 'foot' to the case bottom. > > After that, I was able to complete the Alignment & Test #2. Tomorrow > I'll start on part 3 of the build. > > I did find one other thing that doesn't seem quite right. I'm having > some trouble with the AGC circuit, and adjusting R1 on the control > board. It says to adjust R1 to see about 3.9 volts on pin 5 of U2, > but I can't get any more than 3.7 volts. Turning R1 through its full > range, I go up to 3.7 with about 75% rotation, then the last 25% it > just stays at 3.7 volts. I don't know if this could be a problem > later. I'm reading 7.8 volts on the 8v line so it might just be that > the 8v is a bit low. > > Thanks again for all the help everyone! > > 73 de Stephanie > va3uxb > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Noise Blanker & 60m option for K2
Craig, You are correct, the K160RX should take you only about 2 or 3 hours total depending on how proficient you are at removing the heat sink from the PA transistors. (Tongue planted firmly in cheek) You might want to make a major mechanical job out of attaching the BNC connector the rear panel - you could work like a person who is 'all thumbs' and take quite a long while geting the hex nut started straight on the connector body threads or something like that - little efforts like that can increase your build time considerably (assuming that is a worthy goal). (Tongue normal) Have a great time installing the rest of your preferred K2 options, and then enjoy operating it. We all must take a break from the build process at one time or another (at least my wife says that should be true!!!). You could always buy another K2 and start over. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > > I just finished building and installing the KNB2 andK60XV option > boards. As > usual with Elecraft it all went together FB and runs as advertised with no > problems. I do have two complaints, however. > > 1. The K60XV has no toroids! What kind of Elecraft kit is it with no > toroids to wind? Where's the fun in that? > > 2. For 120 bucks or so you only get two to three evenings of building fun. > And that's stretching it, going as slowly as I could. Now what > do I build? > The only option left is the 160m board and that doesn't look like it would > take very long to build. > > Help. > > Craig > K3OOL > K2 #4790 KSB2, KDSP2, KAF2, KNB2, KX60V, KPA100, KAT100, KAT2, UnPCB's > > I guess a KX1 is next. > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] PLL Ref. Osc. Fixed
Well I finally got the PLL reference oscillator to oscillate consistently. I removed the crystal and found a tiny little sliver of metal shorting one of the pins to the case. I don't think it was solder as it wouldn't melt but I was able to pick it off with tweezers. I also re-seated D18, it was sticking up just a little and might have been shorting against the hardware that holds the 'foot' to the case bottom. After that, I was able to complete the Alignment & Test #2. Tomorrow I'll start on part 3 of the build. I did find one other thing that doesn't seem quite right. I'm having some trouble with the AGC circuit, and adjusting R1 on the control board. It says to adjust R1 to see about 3.9 volts on pin 5 of U2, but I can't get any more than 3.7 volts. Turning R1 through its full range, I go up to 3.7 with about 75% rotation, then the last 25% it just stays at 3.7 volts. I don't know if this could be a problem later. I'm reading 7.8 volts on the 8v line so it might just be that the 8v is a bit low. Thanks again for all the help everyone! 73 de Stephanie va3uxb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Noise Blanker & 60m option for K2
I just finished building and installing the KNB2 andK60XV option boards. As usual with Elecraft it all went together FB and runs as advertised with no problems. I do have two complaints, however. 1. The K60XV has no toroids! What kind of Elecraft kit is it with no toroids to wind? Where's the fun in that? 2. For 120 bucks or so you only get two to three evenings of building fun. And that's stretching it, going as slowly as I could. Now what do I build? The only option left is the 160m board and that doesn't look like it would take very long to build. Help. Craig K3OOL K2 #4790 KSB2, KDSP2, KAF2, KNB2, KX60V, KPA100, KAT100, KAT2, UnPCB's I guess a KX1 is next. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Slightly OT, but interesting
You see the most interesting things on Ebay. Read the first sentence of the description of this Icom 706: Ebay item 5854697970 Tom K8TB K2 Sn# 3206 & 5050 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Antenna connector
Hi, I would like to know if I use my K2 with the KPA-100 for outdoor operation, and if I turn off the KPA-100 from the menu and also if I powered my K2 from the samll DC connector instrad of the Powerpole connector ... May I use the BNC antenna connector instead of using the SO-239 antenna connector on the KPA-100 ??? 73 = JEAN-FRANÇOIS MÉNARD / VA2VYZ ELECRAFT KX1 #999, K2 #4130 FISTS #11896 Pour visitez mon site Internet / To visit my website : http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Gettin' off the fence (K1 vs K2)
Keith wrote: Hmmm, Now hold on there Ron :-) I figure, the K1 and K2, both coming from Elecraft, will have a similar operating feel. Small size, menu driven who knows what else. It will be quite a shift from my big Omni V, right? I used to have a Corsair II. Prior to that I had an Omni D. I now have the Omni V. All 3 are different radios, yet they are distinctively TenTec and owning any of them will give you a taste of TT. No, owning an Omni D will not tell you whether or not you'd like an Omni V, but it puts you much closer than owning a TS-430s :-) So, I guess I hear what you're saying but I still think there is something of Elecraft to be learned by owning a K1 and some of those lessons can be applied to the K2. Of course, as always, I reserve the right to be totally WRONG :-) LOL!! --- Good points Keith: I wouldn't say that your experience comparing Elecraft rigs would be at all like comparing Ten-Tec rigs. It is true that both the K1 and K2 use a menu. That's like saying a pickup truck and a town car both have steering wheels similar instruments on the dashboard. Still, a K1 might be the right rig for you today. Let me explain: Electronically, the K2 is very much different from a K1, and those differences show up in use. It uses an optical encoder tuning control controlling a special type of phase-locked loop for the receiver local oscillator instead of a multi-turn pot driving a simple L/C oscillator. It has more extensive filtering for superior performance in crowded band conditions and can be extended to cover 160 meters (and 60 meters) with a few inexpensive add-on modules. The K2 has excellent I.F. derived AGC that gives it superior QSK on CW, something that K1 with its audio-derived AGC can't match. I'm sure others could add a huge list of differences. That said, the K1 is a nice rig, it's just not designed to compete with toe-to-toe with other high-performance rigs designed for home station use. The K2 is designed to do just that, and many independent reviews back up that comparison. What you'll get with the K1 is a very efficient and effective rig designed for portable QRP use that covers up to four bands and is very easy on batteries. Sure, many operators use their K1's at home too and they're quite happy with them, but it would be unfair to compare a K1 to most rigs designed for home station use, including any of the Ten-Tec rigs. No matter which rig you buy, you will learn about the excellent attention to detail the Elecraft folks give their rigs, the kits, the documentation (which I'm often involved in so I am not unbiased here) and probably most obvious of all, their world-class customer support starting with Gary at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and the gang on this reflector. But there's probably a more important issue here than features or performance. I read about a lot of Hams having to sneak a piece of gear past the XYL or having to talk the XYL into allowing them to spend the money. Those stories make me very sad because I see them often enough to realize that at least some of them are true. I believe that Ham radio should enhance a marriage, not create stress in the relationship, just as Ham radio should enhance one's individual life, not create problems within it. So if a K2 is not in your budget and a K1 is, go for the K1 and have a ball. Nothing else matters. If the day comes that you want to move "up" to a K2, you'll find someone ready to take the K1 off of your hands at a fair price, if the experiences of others reported here are any indication. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Gettin' off the fence (K1 vs K2)
Hmmm, Now hold on there Ron :-) I figure, the K1 and K2, both coming from Elecraft, will have a similar operating feel. Small size, menu driven who knows what else. It will be quite a shift from my big Omni V, right? I used to have a Corsair II. Prior to that I had an Omni D. I now have the Omni V. All 3 are different radios, yet they are distinctively TenTec and owning any of them will give you a taste of TT. No, owning an Omni D will not tell you whether or not you'd like an Omni V, but it puts you much closer than owning a TS-430s :-) So, I guess I hear what you're saying but I still think there is something of Elecraft to be learned by owning a K1 and some of those lessons can be applied to the K2. Of course, as always, I reserve the right to be totally WRONG :-) LOL!! 73 - Keith - -- Still, whether or not you like the K1 will have nothing to do with your experience with a K2. That's almost like saying you'll buy a Ford Pickup to see if you'd like a Lincoln town car. As Mike said, they are different designs intended for different roles and different operators. They are both excellent rigs, but different in performance, features and functions. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Gettin' off the fence (K1 vs K2)
Based on what you say, I'd suggest you get the K2. You don't have any of the needs for which the K1 is the better rig, and the $'s ain't that much different (you just have to abuse the math just right). K1 = 359 = $90/band. K2 = 599 = $75/band. K2+K160RX = 638 = $71/band. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 Darwin, Keith Thanks Mike, Due to cost limitations (I have too many hobbies, too few dollars) I find I'm usually running a very lean ship. One rig is about all I can have, maybe 2 tops. If I find the K1 is to my liking (menu-driven, QSK operation, sound of receiver, RX performance, etc) I'll consider going to a K2/100 as my only rig. I do basically no portable or field ops - except for field day where I'll carry a 12V deep cycle battery & my full size rig into the back yard - so having a portable battery operated rig is not that important to me. So far my K1 hasn't even shipped yet so I'll have to wait until my shipped sails in before I start making plans :-) - Keith KD1E - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Gettin' off the fence (K1 vs K2)
Keith, KD1E wrote: If I find the K1 is to my liking (menu-driven, QSK operation, sound of receiver, RX performance, etc) I'll consider going to a K2/100 as my only rig. I do basically no portable or field ops - except for field day where I'll carry a 12V deep cycle battery & my full size rig into the back yard - so having a portable battery operated rig is not that important to me. - Cost should always be a factor when there's a budget. Still, whether or not you like the K1 will have nothing to do with your experience with a K2. That's almost like saying you'll buy a Ford Pickup to see if you'd like a Lincoln town car. As Mike said, they are different designs intended for different roles and different operators. They are both excellent rigs, but different in performance, features and functions. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Gettin' off the fence (K1 vs K2)
Thanks Mike, Due to cost limitations (I have too many hobbies, too few dollars) I find I'm usually running a very lean ship. One rig is about all I can have, maybe 2 tops. If I find the K1 is to my liking (menu-driven, QSK operation, sound of receiver, RX performance, etc) I'll consider going to a K2/100 as my only rig. I do basically no portable or field ops - except for field day where I'll carry a 12V deep cycle battery & my full size rig into the back yard - so having a portable battery operated rig is not that important to me. So far my K1 hasn't even shipped yet so I'll have to wait until my shipped sails in before I start making plans :-) - Keith KD1E - -Original Message- Mike wrote: I don't think one should consider the K2 as an upgrade to the K1. These two units fill different rolls. For my purposes, the K1 fulfills requirements for which the K2 would be unsatisfactory (size, weight, power consumption, etc.). I can more easily live without a K2 than I could a K1. If I had both, I'd still never let the K1 go. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Gettin' off the fence (K1 vs K2)
Keith wrote: >Some time next week I expect a little box with a K1 in it. I'll have >fun comparing it to my TenTec Omni V. I could see me replacing both >with a K2/100 some day ... I don't think one should consider the K2 as an upgrade to the K1. These two units fill different rolls. For my purposes, the K1 fulfills requirements for which the K2 would be unsatisfactory (size, weight, power consumption, etc.). I can more easily live without a K2 than I could a K1. If I had both, I'd still never let the K1 go. 73, Mike / KK5F ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] PLL reference oscillator failure
I would check the solder connections on the toroids in the PLL section, in particular, the transformers. Check continuity thru the windings by measuring from other component leads connected to the pads the toroid leads are soldered to. If you don't get the toroid leads cleaned and tinned properly it's easy to end up with intermitant connections. By the way, I'm impressed with the speed at which you're assembling your K2! It took me about two weeks (working an hour or two during the week and a marathon session one weekend) to get were you are in only two days! 73 de Mike, N0SO Stephanie Maks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi everyone, > > Thank you all so much for all your suggestions and advice! It looks > like I have some kind of intermittent fault in my PLL Reference > Oscillator. I've retouched all the solder points in that area incase > it was a cold joint, and after poking around at it for a bit it > suddenly seemed to be working. Then after a few minutes it went dead > again, no oscillation. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Thanks, and will this work as a microphone?
Bob, W1SRB wrote: down in the bottom of my parts box was a handheld speaker/microphone that I picked up at a flea market a long time ago - it was probably from a CB rig as it has a 2 character display as well as the PTT switch, volume and squelch controls and an up/down switch. If I remove everything except the speaker/mic, PTT switch and up/down switch and rewire it, can I use it on the K2. Specifically, will the speaker/mic element work as a mic on the K2? -- Possibly, but don't count on it. I've tried a variety of dynamic mics (which a "speaker-mic" is) on my K2. None of them produced enough output to fully drive the K2 on all bands. However, you can make an excellent microphone by going to Radio Shack and buying one of their electret mic elements for about US$2 and mounting it in the enclosure! You'll need to pick up the 5 volts available at the mic connector to power it, so you'll need 4 wires in the cord (ground, mic hot, +5v and the push-to-talk closure to ground) but with all that stuff in the current mic you'll probably have plenty of wires available. RS also sells 8 pin connectors required by the K2. Mine is mounted in a hand-held enclosure that originally had a dynamic element that sounded FB but had just marginal drive. The dynamic element was round but much bigger than the electret, so I wrapped my electret in some weather-stripping I had laying around (sticky on one side) to make a round cushion that fit snugly in the space for the original element. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Thanks, and will this work as a microphone?
Hello All, Thank you to all of you who answered my query about building a K2 without having to remove components as I add options - the Rework Eliminators is just what I was looking for. Now for the next question - down in the bottom of my parts box was a handheld speaker/microphone that I picked up at a flea market a long time ago - it was probably from a CB rig as it has a 2 character display as well as the PTT switch, volume and squelch controls and an up/down switch. If I remove everything except the speaker/mic, PTT switch and up/down switch and rewire it, can I use it on the K2. Specifically, will the speaker/mic element work as a mic on the K2? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] PLL reference oscillator failure
The most sensitive part is almost always the problem part! Try gently tapping other parts. I've often used the rubber eraser end of a pencil to make gentle pokes to determine which part is the most sensitive. Sometimes it's hard to tell! One thing that can cause this behavior is marginal feedback. Crystals oscillate by vibrating mechanically. A small change by bumping a marginal crystal can start it, or the change in capacitance caused by touching the can. Make sure C84 and C85 are the right value parts. They control the feedback. Also be sure the diodes are in the right way around: D16, D17 and D18. C86 is important to keep the source of Q19 at RF ground. And, of course, you should confirm that you have 8 volts between ground and one side of C86 that doesn't disappear if you tap things! If it's your crystal, it could be an intermittent crystal but that's really, really rare! One problem people run into installing crystals is letting too much solder flow around the pins. The solder joint look fine on the bottom, but the solder flows through the hole (they are plated all the way through) and 'puddles' around the lead under the crystal where you can't see it! If the puddle is just tiny bit too big, it'll short the crystal to the case. It's often a 'cold', intermittent joint because the case wasn't hot enough to take the solder. The blob of solder around the pin is simply resting against the bottom of the crystal case. Try checking continuity from the pins to the crystal case while tapping/wiggling it to see if there's an intermittent. Keep in mind that most DMM's are useless for this purpose because they take a while to detect the short. If it's intermittent the DMM may not detect it. Many DMM's have a "continuity" check that sounds an alarm if even a brief contact is detected. The option is to remove the crystal and look! You'll need a good solder sucker (at least a spring-loaded unit like the Soldapullet Elecraft recommends) and take care not to put more heat on the leads than you need to. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi everyone, Thank you all so much for all your suggestions and advice! It looks like I have some kind of intermittent fault in my PLL Reference Oscillator. I've retouched all the solder points in that area incase it was a cold joint, and after poking around at it for a bit it suddenly seemed to be working. Then after a few minutes it went dead again, no oscillation. So I poked the crystal X1, just kind of tapped it, and suddenly it's oscilating again. I've verified that there are no cold solder joints, the crystal is securely soldered and the case is grounded. After working on it for a while, it seems like the slightest touch or movement to the rig can cause the reference oscillator to start and stop. Does this problem suggest a failure within the crystal itself? Thanks also for the advice and feedback about the case bottom, I've got the feet parallel now and everything seems good there. 73 de Stephanie va3uxb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] PLL reference oscillator failure
... or a short under the can. It's easy to get enough solder up the leads to contact the can where you can't see it. If there's too much solder, you could get that symptom. I'd pull the crystal, clean the holes carefully with solder-wick, and reinstall with attention not to over-use the solder. Note, you can most likely leave the ground wires on the cans, just treat it/them as another lead of the (now three-legged) crystal. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 Does this problem suggest a failure within the crystal itself? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] PLL reference oscillator failure
Hi everyone, Thank you all so much for all your suggestions and advice! It looks like I have some kind of intermittent fault in my PLL Reference Oscillator. I've retouched all the solder points in that area incase it was a cold joint, and after poking around at it for a bit it suddenly seemed to be working. Then after a few minutes it went dead again, no oscillation. So I poked the crystal X1, just kind of tapped it, and suddenly it's oscilating again. I've verified that there are no cold solder joints, the crystal is securely soldered and the case is grounded. After working on it for a while, it seems like the slightest touch or movement to the rig can cause the reference oscillator to start and stop. Does this problem suggest a failure within the crystal itself? Thanks also for the advice and feedback about the case bottom, I've got the feet parallel now and everything seems good there. 73 de Stephanie va3uxb ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Rx vs K1 Rx
Hi Dale, I've had both, still have the K2 (and building a second). The K1 was decent, but I work the big contests and chase DX, so needed something that was more bullet proof and flexible. The K2 is much more adaptable for those situations. Multi bands in one package. 160 as an option with the ability to use a seperate Rx antenna is a blessing. I would say ultimately, it comes down to what you need the Rx for: DX, Contests, Ragchewing, et al. For me, the K2 Rx is hotter and less prone to interference from close stations. Cheers, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] PLL reference oscillator failure
Stephanie, One of the high probability places for a solder failure is on the thermistor board. First thing is to check the 4 volt output - look for 4 volts on RF Board U6 pin5 - if it is not close to 4 volts, find the solder splash on the thermistor board. Sometimes you can examine the board by removing the front panel and control board, but it is no great deal to remove it completely, just clip the 8 wires and take it out - solder new wires to re-install. You are most likely to find a solder problem somewhere in the PLL area, but that thermistor board is the most likely suspect. One other common cause of PLL failure is T5 - be certain the winding sense is correct - if you have one of the windings reversed, it will not work. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I've just got to the Alignment and Test Part 2 for my K2 and right > off I've hit a problem. I've got the freqency counter probe plugged > into TP3, and I'm in Cal Fctr, but instead of the expected 12090 I'm > getting around 400. It wavers between 398 and 400. The frequency > probe works all right, when I try it on the 4 MHz crystal on the > control board, I get a reading as expected in the Aligntment part 1. > > I'll be spending more time tomorrow reviewing the PLL area but if > anyone has some suggestions on likely culprits, advice would be most > welcome. > > Thanks & 73! > > -Stephanie > va3uxb > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Receiver comparison
Dale, You will not be disappointed in the K2 receiver - it is better than the K1. More selectivity control, greater sensitivity, greater dynamic range, and many other pluses. Both hear very well - in fact the test numbers place the K2 in a class with $3K transceivers. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > As mentioned in my earlier posting today, I'm on the verge of > taking the next step up the Elecraft ladder by purchasing a K2 > kit. I have a question, however, that I know many of you are in a > position to answer. > I'm extremely impressed with the receiving characteristics of > the K1, loving the way it zeros in on and amplifies a cw signal. > The audio shaping fits my hearing abilities beautifully. I'm > wondering if the K2 offers similar characteristics, or if it has > been somewhat compromised for cw in order to also handle the > needs of SSB signal processing. That may seem like an > off-the-wall question, but I've read a couple of minor references > over the past couple of months on the forum that make me wonder. > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 #5237 alive
Congratulations Jo! The only comment I can make is that I don't know if it is a good idea to put your K2 on Top of the kenwood...for two reasons !) Heat...will it get too hot there? and 2) embarrassment. Won't the Kenwood just die of embarrassment when it hears how much better the K2 works? :-) 73 and welcome to Elecraft world. Dave, K4TO jo benoit wrote: hello elecrafters, I ordered my K2 kit on dec 3th it was sent off to me on dec 4 th I had to wait till dec 27th for it to arrive here because it was held up in customs. Had to pay 21% VAT and 5% income tax. But in the meantime, I had a lot of time to browse the email reflector archive, and this was very helpful and interesting. The kit was fun to assemble. I liked very much : - the manual is very well layed out. - the resistors in order of use. - the modular system. - the built in freq. counter and voltmeter. - the milimeters between brackets where inches are mentioned. - the finger dimple ( I ordered a second one for my TS-850 ..) - Allignment was easy with the Xg2 signal generator and N-gen and the spectrogram software. - I did a complete inventory before I started and I was glad I did. - the way the construction is split up in phases , and you can test parts before everything is finished. - The result is really fantastic: stable and relyable tx and very good rx... The pitch is set to 580Hz which is near enough to a D. My guitar tuner is used as a help for zero beat. I find it difficult to zero beat with the spot function. The main Tuning knob is OK with the finger dimple, but still a bit going up and down, I think the hole is too large for the shaft, and this gives a bit of excentricity. I didn't use the tilt bar, the K2 is on top of my TS850S which is already tilted. The fast rate is far too fast for me , I would have prefered 200steps and not 100. I miss a built-in SWR meter but no problem, I had one on the shelf so put it back to use. My first qso was with IZ0DQZ/qrp on 14 mc. I have been building many kits. I have been a ham since 1965 , and this is the best kit I ever built. Thanks and 73 to all , looking forward to meeting you on the air. joe on5ao K2#5237 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Gettin' off the fence (K1 vs K2)
Hey folks, Well, last night I did something foolish. I put a bit on a K1 on e-bay. I bit near the max I thought the rig was worth but figured I'd be out bid. I wasn't. I won. Oh great, I'm not sure I really was planning on that, but hey, I got the rig so ... Some time next week I expect a little box with a K1 in it. I'll have fun comparing it to my TenTec Omni V. I could see me replacing both with a K2/100 some day ... Of course this week I also got my 5th adult air rifle (RWS 24C) so I have more than enough toys to play with in the basement to keep me busy. Oh, and I joined the new group SKCC (Straight Key Century Club) so I need to get on 7.120 CW with the straight key ... *sigh*, so many toys, so little time... - Keith KD1E - - K1, Omni V - - SKCC 344 - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #5237 alive
hello elecrafters, I ordered my K2 kit on dec 3th it was sent off to me on dec 4 th I had to wait till dec 27th for it to arrive here because it was held up in customs. Had to pay 21% VAT and 5% income tax. But in the meantime, I had a lot of time to browse the email reflector archive, and this was very helpful and interesting. The kit was fun to assemble. I liked very much : - the manual is very well layed out. - the resistors in order of use. - the modular system. - the built in freq. counter and voltmeter. - the milimeters between brackets where inches are mentioned. - the finger dimple ( I ordered a second one for my TS-850 ..) - Allignment was easy with the Xg2 signal generator and N-gen and the spectrogram software. - I did a complete inventory before I started and I was glad I did. - the way the construction is split up in phases , and you can test parts before everything is finished. - The result is really fantastic: stable and relyable tx and very good rx... The pitch is set to 580Hz which is near enough to a D. My guitar tuner is used as a help for zero beat. I find it difficult to zero beat with the spot function. The main Tuning knob is OK with the finger dimple, but still a bit going up and down, I think the hole is too large for the shaft, and this gives a bit of excentricity. I didn't use the tilt bar, the K2 is on top of my TS850S which is already tilted. The fast rate is far too fast for me , I would have prefered 200steps and not 100. I miss a built-in SWR meter but no problem, I had one on the shelf so put it back to use. My first qso was with IZ0DQZ/qrp on 14 mc. I have been building many kits. I have been a ham since 1965 , and this is the best kit I ever built. Thanks and 73 to all , looking forward to meeting you on the air. joe on5ao K2#5237 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
