Re: [Elecraft] KSB2 OP1 Filter BFO adjustment for xmit
Bob Nielsen wrote: Spectrogram - an audio spectrum analyzer that runs on a Windows computer (there are others that will work on other OS's, but doesn't everyone run Windows G). Actually I am reading this on Linux. I did my alignment on a Linux machine using one of the digital mode programs See http://www.baudline.com/ - free as in beer, not free as in speech, but works a treat. Looks nicer than spectrogram too, though I'll admit I've never run spectrogram, just seen n0ss's screenshots. -- Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209. use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED] The only thing worse than raining cats and dogs is hailing taxis. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 Relay contact resistance; plus, a few words about Elecraft PC boards
Wayne, Thank you for your very comprehensive reply. The FT1000MP gets switched on about once a month, and I tend to switch between bands and functions. This is not an excessive idle time, and I think that if decent relays were fitted there would be no problem. All relays are not created equal, and I have my doubts about those that were fitted to my FT1000MP. The wiping action of relay contacts certainly makes as big difference, and I am pleased that the Omron ones selected do that. My experience of Elecraft PCB's is that their construction is really robust, and providing care is taken when removing components no tracks or plated through holes should be damaged. Despite removing/replacing components in a number of areas, I have yet to lift a track. Your mail has really put my mind at rest, and I will continue to enjoy my Elecraft gear with no worries. 73 Stewart G3RXQ On Sun, 12 Feb 2006 10:16:23 -0800, wayne burdick wrote: Stewart, The small relays we use all have wiping action. This was one of our selection criteria. We also ran them through millions of switching cycles just to be sure, and not a single one failed, which bodes well for relay life in our products. Gary, our customer support engineer, has noted that relay failures in the field are also extremely rare, and in most cases can be traced to damage during initial installation (e.g., melting a corner of the package with a soldering iron). Even if a relay did develop a problem, you should only replace that relay, not an entire group. All of our manuals include signal-tracing procedures that should be helpful in identifying a failing relay. In the case of our internal ATUs, you can exercise each relay individually using the rig's ATU menu entry. The T1 allows individual relay testing using its switch/LED user interface. If you ever do have to replace a relay, it's wise to remove *all* of the solder using a large (not wimpy!) vacuum desoldering tool, followed by solder-wicking all pins to clean things up. Even still, you might have to pry a bit with a jeweler's driver to get the relay off. Since all of our PC boards are double-sided, there's a small risk of pulling out the plating on one or two plated-through holes when you do this. But we anticipated this, so we make all PC board connections to relays on the opposite side of the board. The loss of through-plating is then a non-problem. We apply this rule to all large components that obscure their top-side traces. The rule is harder to follow in dense areas around ICs, but in this case you can solder the pins both top and bottom if plating is lost. We also strive to maximize the size of PC board pads and traces whenever possible. This simplifies possible rework, lowers trace impedance and improves reliability. Our PC layout methodology is in sharp contrast to most of the electronics industry, which seems to use the smallest trace widths they can get away with, even when PCB real-estate isn't an issue. 73, Wayne N6KR - www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 and external ALC from amplifier
I am currently using my K2/100 to drive a linear amplifier (Yaesu Quadra). I would like to use the ALC output voltage from the amplifier to control the output from my K2/100. Has anyone managed to do this, and any recommendations? Thanks Peter ___ Peter Bacon www.g3zss.co.uk www.oceanfone.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 and external ALC from amplifier
use the ALC output voltage from the amplifier to control This may not be such a good idea ... Take a look at: SM 5 BSZ - The abominable ALC. http://www.nitehawk.com/sm5bsz/dynrange/alc.htm - Original Message - From: Peter Bacon [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 11:34 AM Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 and external ALC from amplifier I am currently using my K2/100 to drive a linear amplifier (Yaesu Quadra). I would like to use the ALC output voltage from the amplifier to control the output from my K2/100. Has anyone managed to do this, and any recommendations? Thanks Peter ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 and external ALC from amplifier
Peter, Not practical - you will have to be satisfied with controlling the level of the drive to the linear. In most cases, using ALC is not a good idea IMHO because it is normally set to be an indicator of gain compression which is another way of saying 'beginning to operate in a non-linear region' - so operating by depending on ALC is a recipe for creating distortion. As a parallel, you may want to consider why operators using PSK31 and other digital modes are instructed to opeate the equipment at a level below where ALC begins to operate to assure a good IMD figure - if ther is ALC action, distortion is occurring. The KPA100 uses a wattmeter at the output and communicates this information to the base K2 uP then uses that information to control the BFO injection in the K2 in order to control the power output. I would guess (but I don't know) that the 'to be announced' Elecraft linear will use a similar scheme rather than using the ALC method to achieve output power control and assure that the linear remains linear. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am currently using my K2/100 to drive a linear amplifier (Yaesu Quadra). I would like to use the ALC output voltage from the amplifier to control the output from my K2/100. Has anyone managed to do this, and any recommendations? Thanks Peter ___ Peter Bacon www.g3zss.co.uk www.oceanfone.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.6/257 - Release Date: 2/10/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Relay contact resistance
That was 200,000 with (memory check?) 1A on the contacts. You need to use the mechanical numbers, since the current is 1A. Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snip Electrical: 200,000 operations min. (at 1,800 operations/hr) /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Polar Bear QRP Project Tin!
Hello fellow Polar Bears and all! If anyone is interested in a Polar Bear Candy Tin, I can take a list for orders. Click on the link below and look only at the Polar Bear Tin. It contains Mint Ice Cremes. If anyone wants all five tins, that's ok too. I will start an order list so we save on shipping. I was also told that we can receive a 10% discount for 30 tins or more. With the discount, the price for a Polar Bear Tin would be $5.30 plus sh on my end to you. I don't know what the sh would be at the moment, but I'll keep it to a minimum. Look for a price around $7.00 per tin. Oh yes, the best part is you can use the tin for your next qrp project! If anyone wants a Polar Bear Tin filled with mint cremes to use for a qrp project, please email me with all for all five tins or Polar Bear for that one only and quantity. If I get enough interest, I'll post a buy page on my website for all to order. http://www.alaskawil; dberryproducts.com/servlet/viewcatalogphoto?photoId=211 72, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Contest
Hi Evert, First, sorry I missed you in the PACC! I played a little in it, 160 to 20. As to your questions: 1) Is there a noticeable difference in heat-sink temperature when operating on higher bands? There is a noticable difference if you're running into a mismatched load. Also, it gets pretty warm if you're working at a high rate or sending endless CQs. (Thant's a good time to go Search and Pounce and give the finals a break). 2) Can this amplifier be tuned for 1 hour on a dummy with full output at any band without any semi-irreversible side effects? I don't know, never tried it. I've run mine pretty hot for hours in the 160M tests. Warm to the touch, but not painful, I try to place it in the drafty part of the bench ;o) 3) I'm used to big tube amplifiers which need air-flow throughput. The fan in the K2 is blowing into the box but there is no way out (kind of short circuit in terms of air flow). What is the reason for this cooling fan to blow into the box instead of making forced airflow through/along the heatsink. It looks to me that some extra holes into the cabinet might raise the efficiency of cooling dramatically (inside the box... This has been discussed on the reflector a number of times in the past. I'm not sure that anyone has added vents to the cabinets yet. Some have placed added fans on the top of the rig, I haven't yet. It is my understanding the power transistors are much better designed and able to deal with some pretty impressive heat loads when properly sinked. Glass envelope tubes are more vunerable to heat. The 2 most important reasons for electronics to stop functioning is over voltage/current and temperature stress by cooling - heating - cooling - heating etc. Even if the heating is within the specs, the overall product life is degenerating quickly by extremely temperature changes. It also stresses the solder point on the PCB. In general: Is the K2 designed to operate at full specs during contests/expeditions under any normal environmental condition (0 deg C to 40 deg C) without cooling down periods? In the couple years I've been on this reflector and using a K2/100, I've yet to hear of anyone losing the final transistors for either contests or DXpeditions. There are a number of us who are serious contesters and K2's have been used on several major DX operations. Some folks have seperated the KPA100, for various reasons, this would probably improve the heat situation as well. Several have added fans, I've thought about it, but haven't yet. 73, Julius n2wn K2/100 #3311 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Polar Bear Candy QRP Tin Link - Sorry!
Hi all, Sorry for the bad link. Here's a link to my website for a look at the Polar Bear Tin and others. No price yet as this will depend on the number of orders. Should be around $7.50 per tin with all sh etc. Again this depends on the number. Once on the Polar Bear page, just click on Polar Bear Candy Tin Link at bottom left of page. You can buy the Polar Bear Tin separate or buy all five tins. If anyone wants a tin or tins, please email me with your number and type. This is just to see if there's any interest. I will post prices later if enough interest. Example: Polar Bear Tin:2ea. or All Five:1ea. http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/PolarBear2006.html 72, Ed, WA3WSJ Polar Bear # 2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] N-Gen
I would expect around 5-6 volts. Bill Scovell wrote: A signal from Down-Under. What dc voltage should I expect at the output pin of the MAR-1? --- Nigel A. Gunn. 59 Beadlemead, Milton Keynes, MK6 4HF, England. Tel +44 (0)1908 604004 mobile +44 (0)7765 471661 e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] www http://www.ngunn.net Amateur radio stations G8IFF, KC8NHF Member of AMSAT-UK #182, ARRL, GQRP Club, QRPARCI, SOC #548, RAYNET Flying Pig #385, Dayton ARA #2128, AMSAT-NA LM-1691, MKARS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Is a K2 Realignment Advisable
Hi Folks, My K2/100 (S/N 4787) is about 10 months old. My question is at what point, or ever, should all the initial alignments be repeated? There are several reasons for asking the question other than electronic components simply drifting a bit with age. 1. Recently I've noticed when it is initially turned on the received frequency is about 100 hz high judged by the pitch of people's voices that I know. After 20-30 minutes they drift to near exact frequency. 2. When initially turned on and transmitting right away I've had reports of distortion like I'm crowding the mike. 3. When doing the initial alignment I had a terrible time with zero beating due to bad hearing. A frequncy counter finally helped solve that to some degree. 4. I did not use spectrogram as it seemed confusing and my radio seemed to play well enough without it. It is still equal to or better than my IC746Pro. 5. Several voltages and frequency ranges were slightly out of tolerance but again overall it seemed to align okay and initial performance seemed okay. 6. I'm now using the receiving antenna port and am trying to dig out DX and other weak signals. I just hate to fix it if it's not broke. But, I'm wondering if I could squeeze a little more performance out of it. I hate to have my K2 on the bench for 2-3 days and not be able to use it. Well, what does everyone say. Go for it or not? Thanks for the help and bandwidth. Jim, AB0UK K2/100 S/N 4787 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Is a K2 Realignment Advisable
Jim, The K2 does not seem to need periodic re-alignment because there is not a lot of drift in the component values over time and the design is on the conservative side, so it is forgiving of minor alignment errors. BUT - If you want optimum performance, do take whatever steps necessary to get the alignment correct the first time and every time you do it (usually needed when components are changed, mods added, or other work on the hardware inside the box). It does not sound like you achieved optimum alignment when you initially did it, so for that reason alone, I would say you will benefit from repeating it. As for your voltages that are 'out of spec' - if you measured within 10% of the value listed in the manual, that is within spec - outside that range usually means that you need to find the source of the anomoly and correct it. The 100 Hz drift that you mentioned is within the K2 spec for operating from a cold start from 25degrees C. If your shack ambient temperature is lower than that, you may see more drift, but judging from peoples voices can be problematic too, better to measure it with a known standard - how much does it drift if you tune carefully to WWV? I highly recommend that you use Spectrogram to set your filters. It sounds complicated to describe it in words maily because we try to describe what to do in detail and anticipate any questions or stumbling bolcks that may arise for you, but once you run through the procedure, I predict that you will find it very easy. Waiting through the boot process for Windows and double-clicking the icon is a harder step than running the Spectrogram application to align a K2 - but I have done it many, many times. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- My K2/100 (S/N 4787) is about 10 months old. My question is at what point, or ever, should all the initial alignments be repeated? There are several reasons for asking the question other than electronic components simply drifting a bit with age. 1. Recently I've noticed when it is initially turned on the received frequency is about 100 hz high judged by the pitch of people's voices that I know. After 20-30 minutes they drift to near exact frequency. 2. When initially turned on and transmitting right away I've had reports of distortion like I'm crowding the mike. 3. When doing the initial alignment I had a terrible time with zero beating due to bad hearing. A frequncy counter finally helped solve that to some degree. 4. I did not use spectrogram as it seemed confusing and my radio seemed to play well enough without it. It is still equal to or better than my IC746Pro. 5. Several voltages and frequency ranges were slightly out of tolerance but again overall it seemed to align okay and initial performance seemed okay. 6. I'm now using the receiving antenna port and am trying to dig out DX and other weak signals. I just hate to fix it if it's not broke. But, I'm wondering if I could squeeze a little more performance out of it. I hate to have my K2 on the bench for 2-3 days and not be able to use it. Well, what does everyone say. Go for it or not? Thanks for the help and bandwidth. Jim, AB0UK K2/100 S/N 4787 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Where can I find it in Europ ?
Hello, My K2 # 1028. I have a more or less often appearing problem. The pots for RIT/XIT, RF gain, power are all the sames and become tired as trhe time went go : the beomes too much play. I had this trouble at the XIT/RIT pot with following effect : the frequency moves down or up as the play in the shaft becomes more or less. Elecraft shipped me one new pot and I change it. OK. But now the same problem occurs with the RF-Gain-Pot giving large voltage peaks to the the processor. Effect : RF desensibilisation during the peaks and mute during AGC recovery (recovery time varies according to the position Fast/Slow). Brand of these pots seems to be ALPHA, but I can't locate even a substitute, in France of course not, but even not in Germany nor in the UK. Did get anybody have the same problem ? Any idea, before I bather Elecraft with my trouble ? 73 Luc/F6HJO/HB9ABB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MH-2 and Boomset Problem
Hi Gang, This should be and easy one. I have a K2, SN543, loaded with all updates and firmware but no 100W. I've used the HM-2 with for a couple of years for a couple dozen SSB contacts. When I plug my Heil boom set in and key it with the foot pedal, the rig shuts off. Does the resistor on the back of the mic connector need to be removed to use the boom set? I actually just tried this yesterday. Never noticed that the Heil came with a compatible connector, no adapter needed. Thanks, Mark K2QO K2 543 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] MH-2 and Boomset Problem
Mark, Just saying 'Heil boom set' is not sufficient information to tell me which mic you actually have. Is it the Elecraft MD2? Is it the Heil ProSet (if so, which one of these is it)? If the mic was made for use with an Elecraft or an Icom, then it should have an electret element in it, but if it has the Heil HC4 or HC5 elements, it is a dynamic mic element and does not need voltage applied to it. Let us know what you really have and perhaps we can help. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- This should be and easy one. I have a K2, SN543, loaded with all updates and firmware but no 100W. I've used the HM-2 with for a couple of years for a couple dozen SSB contacts. When I plug my Heil boom set in and key it with the foot pedal, the rig shuts off. Does the resistor on the back of the mic connector need to be removed to use the boom set? I actually just tried this yesterday. Never noticed that the Heil came with a compatible connector, no adapter needed. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Off Topic (solder pot)
Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything much less and it won't tin properly. Thanks -- Rick ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Amplifier status
Is there any news on when the new amplifer/tuner kit is coming out? I tried to ask Wayne and Eric but do not get responses from either. Tried via the list and direct :( If not, does anyone know of a decent 10-160 SS amp kit a guy can build or good plans to homebrew one? Thanks and 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic (solder pot)
I have a small solder pot, and have had a hard time tinning with it. I'm sure the problem lies with the user (me) and not with the pot! I originally used solder from a roll (with flux) as Rick says, but it became so much of a mess that I purchased a rod of solder (I guess it weighs a pound or so) and as the solder in the pot gets low, I stick the end of the rod into the hot pot and melt enough off to fill the pot back up. Can someone let me know if this the correct type of solder to use? My problem seem to be getting the right temperature for tinning. If I don't set it hot enough it doesn't seem to melt the enamel from the toroid wire. On the other hand if I set it too high, the wire itself actually melts and I have to rewind the toroid. (My solder pot doesn't have a thermometer, so I can't tell you what temperature I am working with.) I'd be interested in hearing more from Rick and anyone else using a aolder pot. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 -- Original message -- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything much less and it won't tin properly. Thanks -- Rick ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic (solder pot)
When I last used a solderpot, my understanding is that you generally *don't* have flux in the pot .. just solder. When tinning a wire, you dip it in paste or liquid flux and then into the pot. Solder manufacturers sell bar solder (with no flux) for use in solder pots. de w1rt/john On 2/13/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything much less and it won't tin properly. Thanks -- Rick ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT solder pot
I run a Goot model 22C solder pot (small, about 1/2 lb capacity) - and do not use fluxed solder at all! I use plain bar solder (available from Mouser and others) cut up into pot-sized chunks, adding more when needed (infrequently). I use a liquid or paste flux with the item to be tinned. Such fluxes are similarly available fro Mouser and others. . The liquid paints on with a little brush, the paste I just stick the wire or terminal into, enough adheres to do the job. I scrape the dross (oxidized solder and flux residue) from the surface of the solder bath as needed. I manufactured the scrapers by cutting strips of 0.010 stainless steel shim stock from a roll. Each scraper is about 1/2 wide and 6 long. The length allows you to scrape the dross before the heat transfers to your fingers. The solder won't stick to the stainless, so just scrape the dross off the tool with your fingernail or a utility knife when it has cooled. I use the pot for tinning toroid leads, connector pins before installing them, stripped coaxial cables before installing them into connectors (mostly RG/8 into PL-259 fittings), large diameter wires before attempting to join them to switches and terminals, and other similar applications. I keep the temperature set to about 800 degrees F, which seems to work well. Don't leave small diameter wires in the solder too long, they will literally dissolve into the molten solder. I second is about all you need for bare wire, or if using heat-strippable insulation, I plunge the wire in until the insulation disappears in a puff of smoke, and remove the freshly tinned wire immediately thereafter.A little practice is all it takes, and you will be pleased with the results. Using the paste or liquid flux is essential for a quick and clean job. Most freshly stripped wire will tin without flux, but not as quickly or as well. Obviously, you won't need flux on heat-strippable insulated wire Similar solder pots are often found on the Internet. Try a Google search for Solder Pot and GOOT . I have seen them available on discount for as little as $100.00. The price is high for one use, but not bad at all if you use it for lots of jobs. Good luck! - Jim, KL7CC [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello all, I have been building a K2 and now a KPA-100. I am using a solder pot for tinning toroids and would like to know how often to replace the solder in the pot. I have been skimming the top which removes flux and debries. I used a 1/2lb off a flux core roll and found it contains too much flux on the top, so I skim the top as it is heating to leave a thin layer on the top. Should i be reintroducing more flux as I go, and should I be removing the burn't enamel some other way? Also what temp works the best, this thing smokes pretty good at 750*F and seems to burn the flux. Anything much less and it won't tin properly. Thanks -- Rick ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] A good Argument for CW
http://jm.slove.org/gc/ With apologies to my German friends... 73, Julius n2wn ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT solder pot
-- Original message -- From: Jim Wiley [EMAIL PROTECTED] I scrape the dross (oxidized solder and flux residue) from the surface of the solder bath as needed. I manufactured the scrapers by cutting strips of 0.010 stainless steel shim stock from a roll. Each scraper is about 1/2 wide and 6 long. The length allows you to scrape the dross before the heat transfers to your fingers. The solder won't stick to the stainless, so just scrape the dross off the tool with your fingernail or a utility knife when it has cooled. Alternately, I've found that a nickel (a five cent coin, which is apparently not made of nickel) is also an adequate method of cleaning up the surface of the solder pot -- hold the nickel with a tweezer or pliers. The solder doesn't stick to the nickel either. Tom WB2QDG K2 1103 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Camping Gear Sell Off!
Hello all, I have some camping gear that I don't use anymore on my qrp field trips. If anyone is interested in the following items, email me. $70.00 1ea. Hennessy Hammock Large http://www.hennessyhammock.com/ ** $25.00 1ea.Standard Term-a-Rest 3/4 length Pad http://www.thermarest.com/ *** $20.00 1ea. Coleman Blue 15 Degree Mummy Sleeping Bag Good for someone under 5'-10. I'm 6'-2!I only used the Coleman bag one time. The hammock and pad were used two or three times. All items are in good condition. I just use other gear now on my qrp field trips. All items don't include SH. You can pick the item/s up at Atlanticon in March with no SH or my home near Reading, PA. If someone wants all the items, --- $95.00 plus SH for all! 72, Ed, WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] New KX1 firmware now available
Revision 1.02 KX1 firmware is now available. If your KX1 is serial #1373 or higher, you already have it. It will also be included free of charge with the KXB3080 30/80 m module. (KXB3080 price and availability will be announced later this month.) In addition to support for the KXB3080 module (as well as the original KXB30), rev. 1.02 includes: - Scanning: Scanning is very useful on quiet bands, or when you’re listening to the KX1 in the background. If you have a limited antenna and/or weak batteries, scanning can help locate a strong station that is likely to hear you, which might be useful in an emergency situation. More likely, you'll use it when it's cold outside and you'd rather keep your mittens on and let the KX1 do the work. Scan start/stop ranges can be set up for each band using memories 1 and 2. - More convenient fast VFO tuning: The fast VFO tuning rate is now always 1 kHz within ham bands, even in LSB/USB receive modes. 5 kHz steps are still used outside ham bands in LSB/USB modes, where you're more likely to be looking for AM broadcast stations on 5 kHz boundaries. - Accurate transmit band edges: In earlier revisions, band edges (for purposes of disabling accidental transmit) ranged from 1 to 5 kHz outside the actual band. If you have an older KX1 and don't plan to install a KXB3080, you can purchase the new firmware for $29 (order #FWKX1). 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Amplifier status
Rich, I have heard on this reflector recently that the amp was about to go to the Field Testers, so unless some major problem crops up, I would expect it to be announced as available in 4 to 6 weeks. WARNING - I have no 'inside track' on this and I am not one of the Field Testers for the amp (not enough in my ham budget G), I am making assumptions based on past experiences. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Is there any news on when the new amplifer/tuner kit is coming out? I tried to ask Wayne and Eric but do not get responses from either. Tried via the list and direct :( If not, does anyone know of a decent 10-160 SS amp kit a guy can build or good plans to homebrew one? Thanks and 73, Rich kd0zv ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier status
How much power in and out you looking for? If you want an amp for something like a K1 or KX1 there's a kit called the HF Packer that works from 160-10 and really a fine little amplifier! It will deliver 35 watts with about 1.5-2 watts of drive. 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: Rich McCabe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 2:01 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Amplifier status | Is there any news on when the new amplifer/tuner kit is coming out? I tried | to ask Wayne and Eric but do not get responses from either. Tried via the | list and direct :( | | If not, does anyone know of a decent 10-160 SS amp kit a guy can build or | good plans to homebrew one? | | Thanks and 73, | | Rich | kd0zv | | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | | | -- | No virus found in this incoming message. | Checked by AVG Free Edition. | Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.6/258 - Release Date: 2/13/2006 | | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft amp
Have been thinking of new amp,does any one know will it have its own power supply and about what price range.? Sincerely Harold n5tog k2 1587 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] further details on KX1 scanning
The KX1 doesn't have the ability to observe on-air signals when the AF output is muted, since it uses audio-derived AGC. This means that the scanning function has to be live -- that is, not muted, and continuously scanning from memory 1 to memory 2. (The K2 has a live-scan mode as well, in addition to the muted smart scan, which only un-mutes when a signal appears.) Live-scanning has a big advantage: you can hear even very weak signals as the VFO scans across them. This is particularly effective on quiet bands. Muted scanning only stops on reasonably strong signals. Scanning is started on the KX1 by a long hold of the RIT/CLR button (2 seconds). It only functions when RIT is turned off. The long hold is necessary to prevent accidental scan start when all you really wanted to do was turn on RIT or clear the offset. In practice, it's very easy to use. The VFO shows the scanned frequency continuously, and can proceed at one of two rates. To stop scanning, you tap any switch, turn the encoder either direction, or hit the key. When scanning is resumed, it picks up right where it left off. One motivation for adding the SCAN feature was to allow me to test the 80 meter band (with the addition of the KXB3080). By scanning 80 meters while doing other work, I discovered that there was a lot of activity that I hadn't noticed when tuning manually for brief periods. Scanning lead to many of the first KX1 80-m QSOs, and I highly recommend this for times when you thought a band was dead. Not! 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT solder pot
Thanks for the info guys, I will have to try straight solder no/flux. That will probably eliminate the smoke when at temp. So am I to assume that I must strip the emamel first, then use paste and dip (again) to tin? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier status
From: Sandy W5TVW [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Rich McCabe [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier status Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 22:25:50 -0600 How much power in and out you looking for? If you want an amp for something like a K1 or KX1 there's a kit called the HF Packer that works from 160-10 and really a fine little amplifier! It will deliver 35 watts with about 1.5-2 watts of drive. 73, Sandy W5TVW Opinion seconded! I built one of the K5OOR amps and it worked great - I managed to get about 40w on 40m out of mine. Nice kit to build. 73's de Ken KG0WX K2 #4913, XG2 _ Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Voltage at output pin of MAR-1
Thanks Ken, About half the supply volts, that's what I guessed. Looks like the Dunce's hat for me --- I left the Palm paddles connected while I did a Spectrogram run on the filters --- think I must have given them a nudge and transmitted into the N-Gen before I powered off! We live and learn. Bill Scovell/VK4SQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
