[Elecraft] Should I install ferrite beads on KIO2/AUX2 cable?

2006-02-17 Thread Dave Mueller
It's been a while since I've built anything, so I'm starting small with the accessory boards for the 
K2.  I finished the KIO2 and AUX2 boards and am getting ready to prepare the connecting cable.  I 
have a bunch of 43 and 73 mix ferrite beads that I use in all of my RS232 cables.  I've read a few 
posts in the archives about noise.  Should I bother putting the beads on the cable?  Any suggestions 
as to which end of the cable (ie should I expect more noise coming in from the DB9 or coming off of 
the control board)?  At this point, I'll thinking about the 43's at the DB9 end, and the 73's at the 
control board end.


Thanks,
Dave AA3EE
S/N Not yet!
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[Elecraft] Checking out noise blanker

2006-02-17 Thread Harvey Howell
Here is how I checked out the noise blanker in my K1. I have a small antenna in 
the same room as the K1. When I take off my sweater it snaps crackles and pops 
and I can hear it in the speaker. Turn on the noise blanker, take off the 
sweater and no pops in the speaker. I tried it several times. Should work the 
same for the K2.

Harvey
KN6VPNo virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.11/264 - Release Date: 2/17/2006
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RE: [Elecraft] Rig Expert S/D

2006-02-17 Thread Kevin Shaw
Hi Ron,

< by the way, I noticed that you're also in the Tampa Bay area :) >

I'm running Rig Expert on my K2. I had no problems at all. I bought the
cable specifically for the K2.

Kevin
N8IQ

P.S. If you figure out how to run it with Ham Radio Deluxe please let me
know.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ronald Ziegler
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 1:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Rig Expert S/D

Has anyone interfaced this unit to their K2.  If so, how did it go.

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[Elecraft] February Run For the Bacon

2006-02-17 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ
This Sunday evening, the Flying Pigs Amateur Radio Club International 
will be holding its monthly Run For The Bacon.  This is a friendly, two 
hour QRP CW Sprint, which is open to ALL radio amateurs, will last from 
9:00 - 11:00PM EST (0200-0400 UTC Monday).


You may work stations once per band on 160, 80, 40, 20, 15 or 10 
Meters.  Suggested starting frequencies are 1.812, 3.562, 7.044, 14.062, 
21.062, and 28.062 MHz.


The exchange is RST, S/P/C (State, Province, Country) and Flying Pigs 
membership number.  If you're not a member of the Flying Pigs, and would 
like to be; then please click on the "membership" hyperlink on 
http://www.fpqrp.com/.  Otherwise, non-members can just use their output 
power figure.


You can report your score via the Autolog page which can be found at 
:http://www.fpqrp.com/fpqrprun.html;
or you can mail your logs to the address given on the Autolog page.  The 
deadline for logs is February 26th at 2400 UTC.


As like last month, the top three scorers will win a certificate, which 
will be suitable for framing.


Hope to catch you on the air Sunday evening!

72 es "oo"
Larry W2LJ   FP#612


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Re: [Elecraft] Inoperable KNB2

2006-02-17 Thread John Reiser

Hi Tom,

My KNB2 doesen't work either on a lot of things that I consider noise.  But, 
for that particularly nasty type of QRN, the loud crackling that sounds like 
frying a big pan of bacon, it works superbly.  My KNB2 takes that stuff out 
completely.


If I ever build another K2 (and I'm thinking about doing that) it will 
include the KNB2 for sure.


73,

John, W2GW

K2/100 #4970, KAT100-1, K1-6 #1205, KX1 #1258, etc.


- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Skinner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Elecraft'" 
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Inoperable KNB2



Hello Group,

Well, you can add me to the list of folks who think their noise blanker is
not working.

Now I don't have a lot of noise problems, but do hear the occasional light
dimmer or neighborhood power tool.

I have tried the scratch test, but results were inconclusive.

Today I brought home a 75,000 volt Tesla coil and lit it off across the
room.  As expected, the noise level jumped from S1 to a bit over S9.

The noise blanker has absolutely no noticeable effect in any position.

I have re-inspected the placement of every component and confirmed every
solder joint.  The preps on the RF board were done correctly.

I checked the two diodes and they appear to be neither open nor shorted.

The Tesla coil is probably overkill, but if the noise blanker is working
shouldn't it have SOME effect?

I really don't know what to check next - any suggestions?

TIA es 72/73,

Tom, KJ3D
K2 # 4991

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RE: [Elecraft] Inoperable KNB2

2006-02-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
No. The Tesla Coil produces exactly the sort of QRN that the noise blanker
is NOT designed to suppress. It is as close to the random racket we call
"band QRN" as you can get: the effect of millions of discharges of varying
intensity and duration all overlapping in time. 

The noise blanker is designed to suppress repetitive high-amplitude pulses
such as you get from a *controlled* spark gap, like an automobile ignition,
or a controlled impulse generator like a cheap lamp dimmer. These impulses
are especially annoying because they have very, very high amplitude coupled
with very short duration, so the average level is quite low, comparatively.
Your "S" meter may say the noise is S7 or S9, but the actual peaks are far,
far stronger than your S-meter is reporting. The KNB2 is excellent for
suppressing them by anticipating the pulse and actually shutting off the
signal path for an instant while it passes. If it tried to do that with the
sort of QRN you get from the Tesla Coil it'd simply turn the receiver off
completely .

As an aside, it is fortunate for me that the sort of noise produced by a
Tesla Coil is indistinguishable from common QRN. Many years ago I fired up
my prototype 8-foot tall Tesla Coil, excited by a spark gap wired to the A-C
mains, and wiped out "I Love Lucy" on TV's for blocks around. My neighbors
knew all about the "Ham Kid" in area but they didn't equate a TV screen
filled with "snow" with the sort of thing they were used to seeing from my
QTH, nor did I feel compelled to enlighten them. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Skinner
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 1:48 PM
To: 'Elecraft'
Subject: [Elecraft] Inoperable KNB2


Hello Group,

Well, you can add me to the list of folks who think their noise blanker is
not working.

Now I don't have a lot of noise problems, but do hear the occasional light
dimmer or neighborhood power tool.

I have tried the scratch test, but results were inconclusive.

Today I brought home a 75,000 volt Tesla coil and lit it off across the
room.  As expected, the noise level jumped from S1 to a bit over S9.

The noise blanker has absolutely no noticeable effect in any position.

I have re-inspected the placement of every component and confirmed every
solder joint.  The preps on the RF board were done correctly.

I checked the two diodes and they appear to be neither open nor shorted.

The Tesla coil is probably overkill, but if the noise blanker is working
shouldn't it have SOME effect?

I really don't know what to check next - any suggestions?

TIA es 72/73,

Tom, KJ3D
K2 # 4991

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[Elecraft] re: Using a handitalkie as an external speaker for the Elecraft KX1

2006-02-17 Thread Bruce Prior
Pat, K4BEH, suggested adding a couple of washers as spacers to glue onto the 
male 2.5 mm adaptor so that the spacing stays correct for feeding the KX1 
audio to the handitalkie speaker without muting it.  I found a thick (3 mm) 
plastic washer in my junk box.  I glued the washer on with contact cement.  
It works like a charm.  I'm carrying an unmodified adaptor for use with 
earphones for handitalkie listening without the speaker and for duplex 
satellite work.


73, Bruce Prior N7RR


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[Elecraft] FS - K2 #2260 - Mint condition

2006-02-17 Thread Rich Lentz

Now that I have retired, it is winter and cold outside I just can’t suppress
the urge to build so I'm going to part with my K2 #2260 so I can build
another Elecraft K2.

2260 was built by me, its only owner, an experienced (retired) Navy Chief
Electronics Technician.

This beautiful Elecraft K2 QRP is loaded with the following options
installed:

KSB2 – SSB Option ($99)
KX160RX -160M, 2nd RX Antenna Option ($39)
KNB2 – Noise Blanker Option ($39)
KI02 – RS-232 Interface AND cable ($89)
KAT2 – 20W Internal ATU ($159)
KBT2 - Internal Battery w/battery ($67)

The "filter flattening mod," "matched Xtals," "Temperature-Compensated PLL
Upgrade," "Temperature Stability," "PSK31 Upgrade," and the "side tone
purity mod" have been done. Speaker Grill cloth is available but not
installed.  Wired for Elecraft MH2 Mike, will add the MH2 Mike at cost.

Works flawlessly, with no cosmetic blemishes (Non-smoker).  Is perfectly
tuned, WWV is within 10Hz +/-, very little drift after warm-up or with room
temperature changes, and the band pass is fairly flat.  Excellent
sensitivity and no problems with “low volume” as discussed on the reflector.
Very little shift of frequencies between XFIL selections. Have received many
complements on the audio quality.

I will include all documentation for the K2 and each of the options. If
there are one or two Options you feel that you don’t need, the Options are
optional and we can discuss not including them (with decrease in price) as I
can and will use them again. If you’d like pictures, please feel free to
contact me (richlentz at cox.net). New current kit prices, including mods
and shipping charges, total well over $1100. $800 and it is yours. Includes
2 - 3 day shipping at this price. I accept USPS Money Orders and PayPal. I
will double box ship. 

Contact off reflector or by phone – 402 573 0406.

Tnx es 73,
Rich,
KE0X


 

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[Elecraft] Inoperable KNB2

2006-02-17 Thread Tom Skinner
Hello Group,

Well, you can add me to the list of folks who think their noise blanker is
not working.

Now I don't have a lot of noise problems, but do hear the occasional light
dimmer or neighborhood power tool.

I have tried the scratch test, but results were inconclusive.

Today I brought home a 75,000 volt Tesla coil and lit it off across the
room.  As expected, the noise level jumped from S1 to a bit over S9.

The noise blanker has absolutely no noticeable effect in any position.

I have re-inspected the placement of every component and confirmed every
solder joint.  The preps on the RF board were done correctly.

I checked the two diodes and they appear to be neither open nor shorted.

The Tesla coil is probably overkill, but if the noise blanker is working
shouldn't it have SOME effect?

I really don't know what to check next - any suggestions?

TIA es 72/73,

Tom, KJ3D
K2 # 4991

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RE: [Elecraft] Is a K2 Realignment Advisable

2006-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

Yes, there is a special set of 4 filters labeled RTTY filters in the K2 -
they can be turned on and off via the menu.  These 4 filters are independent
of the settings used for the other modes (CW and SSB).  The RTTY filter set
also allows independent adjustment of the menu SSBC parameter - it would
normally be set to 1-1 for the best IMD performance on transmit.

Your BFO range may limit the filter bandwidth that you can achieve should
you attempt to use a narrow filter aligned at a high tone because the BFO
range is not adequate to handle it.  You will be able to adjust one sideband
or the other as a narrow filter, but normally not both, so you may have to
manipulate the sideband reversal capability of your RTTY hardware or
software to adjust for this situation.

Adjusting the filters to demodulate tones below 1kHz is usually not a
problem (as is th ecase for most soundcard data modes), but if you attempt
to demodulate the RTTY high tones 2175 and 2225 Hz in a narrow filter, you
can expect to run out of range.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> While chasing 3Y0X on the upper bands I realized those
> bands may no be doing as well as the middle and lower
> bands and especially on RTTY receive.  As the K2 is
> only capable of doing RTTY with AFSK I'm presuming LSB
> mode would be used like other rigs.  The received RTTY
> in MMTTY on the K2 looks much more ragged and seems
> less copyable than with my IC-746Pro.  Is there a
> special filter setting for RTTY?
>
> Now to find some time to work on it and make a great
> rig even better.  There is just too many things do and
> not enough time to do them when you are retired.  -;)
>
> Thanks and have a great day!!
>
> Jim, AB0UK
>

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RE: [Elecraft] misaligned transmit & receive?

2006-02-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
Mike,

If you are using a hardware TNC with your RTTY setup, then it could be many
factors, and yes the alignment of the K2 filters could be one of those -
remember that the FL1 position determines the BFO that is used for transmit,
so if you were using a different filter for receiving, it could explain
things.

OTOH, if you are using computer soundcard generated RTTY afsk, then the
software can usually handle (and also insert) such an offset.

We really need to know more about your setup to provide an intelligent
answer.  The info above is really just educated guesses.  Let us know the
hardware setup, your filter settings (including associated BFO frequencies),
any software involved, etc.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I had trouble checking into a local RTTY net the other night.  It appears
> that on 80m RTTY, I'm transmitting about 1.3 KHz above where I'm
> receiving.  RIT, XIT & split are off.  I don't know if this affects other
> bands or modes, since I mainly chase DX & am operating split anyway.  :)
>
> I'm guessing that this is maybe a BFO issue.  Any thoughts or
> advice before
> I start fiddling with my settings?
>
> Thanks,
> --Mike  WQ5C
> K2 #4693
>
>

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[Elecraft] Rig Expert S/D

2006-02-17 Thread Ronald Ziegler
Has anyone interfaced this unit to their K2.  If so, how did it go.

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[Elecraft] RE: Stripping Enamel Wire

2006-02-17 Thread Marcus Busch [DL1EKC]
Hi folks,

the company "Knippex" (located in Germany) is manufacturing dedicated 
coated-wire 
stripping tweezers. I used them for my latest K2 and it works great !

The tweezers are detailed at this URL:

http://www.knippex.de/index.php?id=783&L=1&grpID=&ukat=abiso13&ukat_code=&active=
Info

They also have spare blades in case the original ones get weared down after 
Your 
tenth K2. hihi

No more fumbling with solder blobs, flames, chemicals or whatsoever.

Maybe useful...

VY 73 de Marcus, DL1EKC

PS: An no, I'm not working for this company.

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[Elecraft] FS HW9

2006-02-17 Thread john gabbard

Spoken for, thanks list.
  johnKF7OM

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[Elecraft] Is a K2 Realignment Advisable

2006-02-17 Thread Jim Harris
Hi Folks,

Several days ago I raised the question here as to
whether it is advisable to realign my K2 after having
it in use for several months.  Several people replied
to which I am thankful for their advice.  Everyone
seemed to think, in my case, it would probably be
helpful to redo the alignment and include Spectrogram.

While chasing 3Y0X on the upper bands I realized those
bands may no be doing as well as the middle and lower
bands and especially on RTTY receive.  As the K2 is
only capable of doing RTTY with AFSK I'm presuming LSB
mode would be used like other rigs.  The received RTTY
in MMTTY on the K2 looks much more ragged and seems
less copyable than with my IC-746Pro.  Is there a
special filter setting for RTTY?

Now to find some time to work on it and make a great
rig even better.  There is just too many things do and
not enough time to do them when you are retired.  -;)

Thanks and have a great day!!

Jim, AB0UK

 

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RE: [Elecraft] Magnet wire

2006-02-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Jerry WA2DKG wrote:

Heat strip magnet wire is not intended for winding transformers and motors
and should not be used for that purpose...Formvar insulated wire is what is
used for that.



I was speaking of transformers such as those used in RF circuits like the
Elecraft rigs, not power transformers; Any situation where two or more
windings occur on the same core. They are not subjected to the electrical or
thermal stresses of motors or power transformers, but good electrical
insulation between the windings is just as important as in any other type of
transformer.

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] misaligned transmit & receive?

2006-02-17 Thread Michael Pfeuffer

Hi all,

I had trouble checking into a local RTTY net the other night.  It appears 
that on 80m RTTY, I'm transmitting about 1.3 KHz above where I'm 
receiving.  RIT, XIT & split are off.  I don't know if this affects other 
bands or modes, since I mainly chase DX & am operating split anyway.  :)


I'm guessing that this is maybe a BFO issue.  Any thoughts or advice before 
I start fiddling with my settings?


Thanks,
--Mike  WQ5C
K2 #4693

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RE: [Elecraft] Why remote the KPA100?

2006-02-17 Thread David
One benefit you take the qrp rig and leave the rest at home just by
disconnecting a couple cables and changing a couple of setting in the
menu. You will need to add the kio2 to the base k2 otherwise it works
great.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Solosko, Robert B
(Bob)
Sent: Friday, February 17, 2006 9:51 AM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: [Elecraft] Why remote the KPA100?



Hi All,

Even though I'm still building my basic K2, I'm already planning
future additions, which include the KPA100 and the KAT100. I read a
number of comments about putting the KPA100 in an EC2 case along with
the KAT100 rather than in the K2 itself. What are the advantages and
disadvantages of doing this? What else is needed? How is the KPA100
connected to the K2 for control and RF? Are there instruction, either
with the KPA100 or from another source on how to do this?

Thanks.

Bob Solosko
W1SRB
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[Elecraft] (Elecraft) K2 # 3641 for sale

2006-02-17 Thread Robert C. Abell

Chris,
I wish you Good Luck in trying to sell your K2. You'll need it trying to 
sell it to one of our American cousins who monitor this list!
It took me a month to recently sell a K2, finally to a Canadian in 
Alberta via my local Club swap shop list.
Try www.kwarc.org and the Ontario Swap Shop which is acessible from the 
kwarc site.

73, Bob VE3XM
K2  S/N  4575
K2/100  S/N  4031
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[Elecraft] Why remote the KPA100?

2006-02-17 Thread Solosko, Robert B (Bob)

Hi All,

Even though I'm still building my basic K2, I'm already planning future 
additions, which include the KPA100 and the KAT100. I read a number of comments 
about putting the KPA100 in an EC2 case along with the KAT100 rather than in 
the K2 itself. What are the advantages and disadvantages of doing this? What 
else is needed? How is the KPA100 connected to the K2 for control and RF? Are 
there instruction, either with the KPA100 or from another source on how to do 
this?

Thanks.

Bob Solosko
W1SRB
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[Elecraft] Magnet wire

2006-02-17 Thread Jeremiah McCarthy
Heat strip magnet wire is not intended for winding transformers and motors and 
should not be used for that purpose...Formvar insulated wire is what is used 
for that...Chemical stripping was used on Formvar, but the chemicals are no 
longer available retail...Some electric motors under continuous use, like power 
saws, get hot enough to destroy heat strip insulation...The commutator 
connections on these machines are not soldered, they are swaged... 

Jerry, wa2dkg
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