Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply Lead

2006-02-23 Thread Stephen W. Kercel
Thanks for the many comments. The 6 foot length was my real concern. 
If the K2 can live with the .14 volt drop then all is well.


73,

Steve
AA4AK
K2 # 5383   (almost in hand)



At 05:24 PM 2/23/2006, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

Stephen W. Kercel wrote:

Elecrafters:
I have a prefabricated (West Mountain) power lead made of zip cord 
consisting of No 10 stranded cables. It is 6 feet long and has 
factory installed Anderson power poles on one end and factory 
installed 1/4 inch ring connectors on the other.

Is this cable heavy enough to connect my power supply to a K2/100?


Yes.  6 feet of no. 10 should have a resistance of 0.007 ohms, so at 20
amps the voltage drop will be 0.14 volt.  As far as heat dissipation,
no. 10 is spec'd for use in cables at up to 33 amps.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] RE: antenna query

2006-02-23 Thread R Webb
Gents,

I've received many interesting suggestions and lots of help on my antenna
query.  I thank all who emailed me here and directly to my home.

There seems to be as many thoughts on antennas as there are Amateurs.

Thanks again.

73,

Ralph, VE7OM




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Re: [Elecraft] Re:QRP Antenna

2006-02-23 Thread Sandy W5TVW
I have had some very good results with the K1 and the following:
1- MFJ-1910 33' fiberglass telescoping pole.
5 ea. of 33' lengths of #24 guage hookup wire (the MIL-SPEC stuff with striped
color coding on it.  Any hookup wire is OK.)
1 ea  25' length of same hookup wire.

I use a heavy photo tripod and bungee to anchor the pole.  In wind
you will need 3 gallon jugs full of water and more bungee to anchor the
legs!
Run a 33' wire up the MFJ mast and right into hot BNC jack pin, and
two to four 33' radials to the ground side of BNC connector.  I use a
Pomona BNC to binding post adapter.
This performs well on 40-15 meters with a built-in KAT1 tuner.
Will work equally well with a small "T" network MFJ tuner if you
don't have a KAT1.  
I even have  four 67' length wires I use when I have the 160/80 meter
RF board in the K1 on 80 meters.  Three for radials and one for first 33'
of vertical antenna and the other 33-34' drooping off to one side.

The MFJ pole is convienant and sets up very quickly.  No good for
back-packing, but I don't worry about that as I'm too damned old
for that kinda stuff anymore!

This worked well when we lost power here for 10 days after Katrina struck
the area!  Worked on a 4.5 A/H gell-cell battery and a small solar panel
to charge it up.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: "Stuart Rohre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Clark Macaulay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "ElecraftList" 

Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re:QRP Antenna


| Verticals are probably preferred for tight locations, and in any case have a 
| nice low angle of radiation even given ground mounting, or low elevated 
| mounting.  Of the two, if you can get the antenna up six or more feet, so 
| much the better.  Then you could use gull wing elevated radials to improve 
| it further without needing more than say 8 radials.  If you have few 
| radials, be sure to put them in the directions of ham population centers.
| 
| Don't forget that you can use long path to advantage when attempting to work 
| DX.   Long path can be skewed from the great circle projection so if the 
| dipole is not aligned perfectly, it may still work for you.  When using an 
| inverted Vee, you "might" get some gain putting a director wire slanted on 
| one side, to augment radiation in the desired direction.  The sloping Vee 
| beam idea from Ten Tec is also of merit for the higher bands when they are 
| open.  100 foot legs or more, and try to have the antenna 30 feet high at 
| the apex of the vee, where you feed it.  Ten Tec model is terminated, but 
| non terminated is easier, and then will give you bi-directional coverage, 
| albeit one at a high angle and the other low.  Still might make for 
| interesting DX.  I have used 5 wave legs on a Vee beam at 10 meters, and I 
| can testify that is a DX burner!
| 
| -Stuart
| K5KVH 
| 
| 
| 
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| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 268.0.0/267 - Release Date: 2/22/2006
| 
| 
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[Elecraft] Test

2006-02-23 Thread Deni
Test via Gmail
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Re: [Elecraft] Re:QRP Antenna

2006-02-23 Thread Stuart Rohre
Verticals are probably preferred for tight locations, and in any case have a 
nice low angle of radiation even given ground mounting, or low elevated 
mounting.  Of the two, if you can get the antenna up six or more feet, so 
much the better.  Then you could use gull wing elevated radials to improve 
it further without needing more than say 8 radials.  If you have few 
radials, be sure to put them in the directions of ham population centers.

Don't forget that you can use long path to advantage when attempting to work 
DX.   Long path can be skewed from the great circle projection so if the 
dipole is not aligned perfectly, it may still work for you.  When using an 
inverted Vee, you "might" get some gain putting a director wire slanted on 
one side, to augment radiation in the desired direction.  The sloping Vee 
beam idea from Ten Tec is also of merit for the higher bands when they are 
open.  100 foot legs or more, and try to have the antenna 30 feet high at 
the apex of the vee, where you feed it.  Ten Tec model is terminated, but 
non terminated is easier, and then will give you bi-directional coverage, 
albeit one at a high angle and the other low.  Still might make for 
interesting DX.  I have used 5 wave legs on a Vee beam at 10 meters, and I 
can testify that is a DX burner!

-Stuart
K5KVH 



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[Elecraft] FS

2006-02-23 Thread john gabbard

I have a spare HW9 manual (W7FG) and a spare Hot Water handbook.
 Both $22. shipped conus.
 Thanks, John KF7OM

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[Elecraft] EQP (Elecraft QSO Party) March 11th -- New and Improved!

2006-02-23 Thread wayne burdick
Well-known contester Bob Patten, N4BP, offered to help us improve the 
EQP rules this year. We think he did a great job, making EQP more 
similar to other contests and more compatible with logging software.


The new exchange includes SPC (state/province/county), which will make 
things more interesting, especially for those collecting states toward 
an Elecraft Worked-All-States award. The number of SPCs is used as a 
multiplier, too.


The exchange also now has rig type and serial number encoded as a 
single number, for those using Elecraft gear (others use power level). 
The first digit indicates rig type (K2=2, K1=1, KX1=0), followed 
immediately by serial number. For example, if I were using K2 S/N of 
3000 (which I probably will :)  I'd send 23000.


There are several other important changes related to QSO points and 
scoring. Please review the complete rules at:


   http://www.elecraft.com/Awards/eqp_2006.htm

Please post any questions to the list. Please DO NOT call or e-mail 
Elecraft directly with EQP questions.


See you on March 11th --

73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] K2 # 539 Lost RX Above 30M

2006-02-23 Thread Mark Saunders, KJ7BS
I am trying to troubleshoot a receive problem with my K2 that is driving me
crazy.  I have lost the RX above 30m.  On 20M I hear a low tone growl, but
on 17, 15, 12, and 10 I hear only a hiss (white noise).  However, signals on
160M, 80M, and 40M sound great, but signals on 30M sound weak.

 

Any ideas where to start?

 

Mark Saunders, KJ7BS

Glendale, AZ

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-23 Thread Paul Gates, KD3JF
I have been reading these messages about the drift and or change of frequency 
when you move the K1. So, I just turned my K1 on for a few minutes and it is 
just as solid as a rock. I turned it upside down and moved it around but no 
change in frequency. I figure I should be happy about that!!
 
 
Paul Gates, KD3JF 
Elecraft Kits:
K1 #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1: Signal Generator 


- Original Message 
From: Mike Morrow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Elecraft Discussion List 
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 6:41:46 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1


>My K1 is very sensitive to placement.  If I pick it up or turn it upside
>down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.

Anything that squeezes or otherwise distorts the K1 bottom cover plate (such as 
when the case is grabbed during repositioning) will cause a small frequency 
shift (I see well below 100 Hz), due to the change of metal bottom cover plate 
position near the LC VFO circuitry on the RF PCB.  The frequency returns to 
original when the pressure is released on the bottom cover.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-23 Thread Don Brown
Hi

If I remember right that 1/2 inch rubber with the sticky tape on it is used 
as a spacer for the LCD display. You are supposed to stick it on the pc 
board under the display and then stick the display to it and then solder the 
pins. I have not built a K1 lately (although I have built several) so with 
the new backlight this may not be the way it is mounted now.

Don Brown
KD5NDB


- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Althoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Drift-K1


> Mike... That reminds me.   I noticed that too.  Whenever I picked up the 
> K1
> and sqeezed the bottom it would shift maybe even more than 100Hz.
>
> There was a small double sided sticky tape covered hard rubber piece in my
> packing material.  I never saw what it was for in the instructions or if 
> it
> even belonged in the K1 kit or not.
>
> But I exposed one side of the sticky tape and pressed it onto the bottom
> cover below the VFO section.   Now when I sqeeze the distance between the
> bottom cover and the  PC board doesn't change much at all and the freq 
> shift
> is reduced dramatically.
>
> I just mention that in case others find a 1/2" black square with sticky 
> tape
> on it in their K1 kits and would like to put it to good use.
>
> Tom K2TA
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Mike Morrow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Elecraft Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 6:41 PM
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1
>
>
> > >My K1 is very sensitive to placement.  If I pick it up or turn it 
> > >upside
> > >down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.
> >
> > Anything that squeezes or otherwise distorts the K1 bottom cover plate
> (such as when the case is grabbed during repositioning) will cause a small
> frequency shift (I see well below 100 Hz), due to the change of metal 
> bottom
> cover plate position near the LC VFO circuitry on the RF PCB.  The 
> frequency
> returns to original when the pressure is released on the bottom cover.
> >
> > 73,
> > Mike / KK5F
> > ___
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Re: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-23 Thread Tom Althoff
Mike... That reminds me.   I noticed that too.  Whenever I picked up the K1
and sqeezed the bottom it would shift maybe even more than 100Hz.

There was a small double sided sticky tape covered hard rubber piece in my
packing material.  I never saw what it was for in the instructions or if it
even belonged in the K1 kit or not.

But I exposed one side of the sticky tape and pressed it onto the bottom
cover below the VFO section.   Now when I sqeeze the distance between the
bottom cover and the  PC board doesn't change much at all and the freq shift
is reduced dramatically.

I just mention that in case others find a 1/2" black square with sticky tape
on it in their K1 kits and would like to put it to good use.

Tom K2TA

- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Morrow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 6:41 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1


> >My K1 is very sensitive to placement.  If I pick it up or turn it upside
> >down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.
>
> Anything that squeezes or otherwise distorts the K1 bottom cover plate
(such as when the case is grabbed during repositioning) will cause a small
frequency shift (I see well below 100 Hz), due to the change of metal bottom
cover plate position near the LC VFO circuitry on the RF PCB.  The frequency
returns to original when the pressure is released on the bottom cover.
>
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F
> ___
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[Elecraft] Praise for Amateur Radio

2006-02-23 Thread Larry Makoski W2LJ

The following is from the CQ-News reflector:

Thanks to Rich Moseson, W2VU!

From the CQ Newsroom…

The White House today released its review of the federal response to
Hurricane Katrina, which, according to a statement, "identifies the 
systemic

problems in Federal emergency preparedness and response revealed by
Hurricane Katrina - and the best solutions to address them." The report
included 17 lessons the Executive Branch learned after reviewing and
analyzing the response to Katrina; made 125 specific recommendations to the
President, and identified 11 critical actions to be completed before the
first day of the 2006 hurricane season.

The report also included a section titled, "What Went Right" in the Katrina
response, which singled out amateur radio operators for particular praise:

*"Other organizations worked tirelessly to assist emergency responders 
that,

due to the storm, did not have the equipment and means to effectively carry
out their duties. Amateur Radio Operators from both the Amateur Radio
Emergency Service and the American Radio Relay League, monitored distress
calls and rerouted emergency requests for assistance throughout the U.S.
until messages were received by emergency response personnel. A distress
call made from a cell phone on a rooftop in New Orleans to Baton Rouge was
relayed, via ham radio, from Louisiana to Oregon, then Utah, and finally
back to emergency personnel in Louisiana, who rescued the 15 stranded
victims. Ham radio operators voluntarily manned the amateur radio stations
at sites such as the National Hurricane Center, Hurricane Watch Net,
Waterway Net, Skywarn and the Salvation Army Team Emergency Radio Network."
*

Finally, the report identified three immediate priorities:
1) Implementing a comprehensive National Preparedness System "to make
certain that we have a fully national system that ensures unity of 
effort in

preparing for and responding to natural and man-made disasters;"
2) Creating a "Culture of Preparedness" that "emphasizes that the entire
Nation - at all levels of government, the private sector, communities, and
individual citizens - shares common goals and responsibilities for homeland
security;" and
3) Implement corrective actions "to ensure we do not repeat the problems
encountered during Hurricane Katrina."


A White House fact sheet summarizing the report is available online at
<http://www.whitehouse.gov/news/releases/2006/02/20060223.html>.

(Tnx CQ Public Service Editor Bob Josuweit, WA3PZO)

The full report is also available online at
<http://www.whitehouse.gov/reports/katrina-lessons-learned/>.



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RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-23 Thread Mike Morrow
>My K1 is very sensitive to placement.  If I pick it up or turn it upside
>down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.

Anything that squeezes or otherwise distorts the K1 bottom cover plate (such as 
when the case is grabbed during repositioning) will cause a small frequency 
shift (I see well below 100 Hz), due to the change of metal bottom cover plate 
position near the LC VFO circuitry on the RF PCB.  The frequency returns to 
original when the pressure is released on the bottom cover.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1

2006-02-23 Thread Rick Dettinger
Actually, I am quite happy with my K1 tuning.  It is the one area where I
like the K1 better than the K2.  I like the smooth,  analog tuning of the
K1. I replaced the  original multiturn pot with the metal shaft one that Don
Brown recommended.  The tuning is the same, though.  It just gives the
tuning knob a nicer feel without the wobble.   I would like the K2 better if
it had a one speed analog VFO, thus my comment about building a VFO to use
with the K2. Rick - K7MW
- Original Message -
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Rick Dettinger'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:01 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1


I assume you are saying that you'd like to have a smoother VFO for the local
oscillator in your K1!

The K2 does NOT use a "multiturn pot" for the VFO. A K1 does. The K1 is a
totally different rig. The K2 uses a high-quality optical encoder for the
main tuning.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


Ron, AC7AC, said:
The K2 does this by using a
PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz "steps" and then varies the PLL reference
oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the
tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity .
I say:
When I tune my K2 past a signal, I can hear the steps.  I also sometimes
think I can hear steps when I tune my K1 thru a signal.  I assumed that this
is due to the nature of the multiturn pot.  I think it is wire wound and
that the wiper cuts the wire turns  suddenly.  It could also be due to jerky
tuning , in spite of efforts to the contrary.  It is very subtle, unlike the
K2.   Give me a smooth PTO with the K2 signal path.   My long term idea is
to build a stable analog VFO, using my Sierra band modules for premixing, to
drive my K2.Rick - K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] xv222

2006-02-23 Thread Matt Osborn
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006 15:35:04 -0600, "Ron McMurray"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>align part 1, voltage at tp1 no reading , voltage at q1 an q2 ok . have 6.75 
>on one side of c18  0 on other side.any suggestions
>ron , kc0tdj

The other side of C18 will require an RF probe to measure a voltage.
Diode D2 acts as an RF Detector allowing the 1.0 to 1.5 volts to be
measured at TP1.

The voltages on Q1 and Q2 indicated that JP-9 is properly connected,
so all you have to do is determine if the local oscillator is actually
working.  A 'scope would serve you well, lacking that, the RF probe
might also provide a clue.

On my XV144, I read 0VDC on the junction of C18 and D2 when using only
a DMM; using the RF Probe, I read 0.66 VDC.  The RF Probe measures
0.11VDC on the junction of C15  and Q2 and 4.0VDC on pin 4 of T1.

Hope this helps.


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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply Lead

2006-02-23 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Stephen W. Kercel wrote:

Elecrafters:

I have a prefabricated (West Mountain) power lead made of zip cord 
consisting of No 10 stranded cables. It is 6 feet long and has factory 
installed Anderson power poles on one end and factory installed 1/4 inch 
ring connectors on the other.


Is this cable heavy enough to connect my power supply to a K2/100?


Yes.  6 feet of no. 10 should have a resistance of 0.007 ohms, so at 20
amps the voltage drop will be 0.14 volt.  As far as heat dissipation,
no. 10 is spec'd for use in cables at up to 33 amps.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] xv222

2006-02-23 Thread Ron McMurray
clarify earlier post have 0 volts at tp1. have6.75 on osc side of c18 0 volts 
on test point side
ron , kc0tdj
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[Elecraft] Power Supply Lead

2006-02-23 Thread Stephen W. Kercel

Elecrafters:

I have a prefabricated (West Mountain) power lead made of zip cord 
consisting of No 10 stranded cables. It is 6 feet long and has 
factory installed Anderson power poles on one end and factory 
installed 1/4 inch ring connectors on the other.


Is this cable heavy enough to connect my power supply to a K2/100?

73,

Steve
AA4AK
K2 # 5383   (almost in hand)


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1

2006-02-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I stand corrected! 

While the K2's local oscillator moves in an analogue fashion, the encoder
steps under the control of the optical encoder according to the tuning rate
setting. The minimum tuning rate is 10 Hz. 

And, as Stephanie (VA3UXB) observed, if one chooses a larger tuning rate,
the step rate moves up with it.

Even though the PLL's reference oscillator is tuned by an analogue voltage,
that voltage is developed in the digital circuits that moves it in step
increments. 

Ron AC7AC 



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ian Stirling
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1


On Thursday 23 February 2006 16:24, Stephanie Maks wrote:
> When I have the K2 set for the 10 Hz tuning it sounds pretty smooth
> to me, but if I have it set for the 50 Hz tuning (as I usually do) I  
> can very clearly hear the steps as I tune up or down past a CW signal.

  My K2 sounds continuous at 10 Hz only when tuning quickly.
I can hear the steps easily on moving the knob slightly to
a frequency 10 Hz higher or lower.  10 Hz with a BFO frequency of 600 Hz
isn't as wide as a semitone, but it's an obvious step to me.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962
--
_

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RE: [Elecraft] xv222

2006-02-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Try adjusting L4A while monitoring the voltage at TP1. Sometimes the
oscillator is balky if the inductor is set at the wrong value. 


Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron McMurray
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:35 PM
To: elecraft post
Subject: [Elecraft] xv222


align part 1, voltage at tp1 no reading , voltage at q1 an q2 ok . have 6.75
on one side of c18  0 on other side.any suggestions ron , kc0tdj
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1

2006-02-23 Thread Ian Stirling
On Thursday 23 February 2006 16:24, Stephanie Maks wrote:
> When I have the K2 set for the 10 Hz tuning it sounds pretty smooth  
> to me, but if I have it set for the 50 Hz tuning (as I usually do) I  
> can very clearly hear the steps as I tune up or down past a CW signal.

  My K2 sounds continuous at 10 Hz only when tuning quickly.
I can hear the steps easily on moving the knob slightly to
a frequency 10 Hz higher or lower.  10 Hz with a BFO frequency
of 600 Hz isn't as wide as a semitone, but it's an obvious
step to me.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962
--
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[Elecraft] xv222

2006-02-23 Thread Ron McMurray
align part 1, voltage at tp1 no reading , voltage at q1 an q2 ok . have 6.75 on 
one side of c18  0 on other side.any suggestions
ron , kc0tdj
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1

2006-02-23 Thread Stephanie Maks
When I have the K2 set for the 10 Hz tuning it sounds pretty smooth  
to me, but if I have it set for the 50 Hz tuning (as I usually do) I  
can very clearly hear the steps as I tune up or down past a CW signal.


I've also heard that on my K1; with very narrow signals and while  
tuning very, very slowly, you can sort of hear the wiper moving.  The  
tone steps up or down.  I know they're totally different rigs and  
tuning methods, but the resultant sound can be similar.


73 de Stephanie
va3uxb
K2#5311 - K1#2132




On 23-Feb-06, at 16.01 .51, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

I assume you are saying that you'd like to have a smoother VFO for  
the local

oscillator in your K1!

The K2 does NOT use a "multiturn pot" for the VFO. A K1 does. The  
K1 is a
totally different rig. The K2 uses a high-quality optical encoder  
for the

main tuning.

Ron AC7AC

I say:
When I tune my K2 past a signal, I can hear the steps.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1

2006-02-23 Thread Hisashi T Fujinaka

On Thu, 23 Feb 2006, Rick Dettinger wrote:


Ron, AC7AC, said:
The K2 does this by using a
PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz "steps" and then varies the PLL reference
oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the
tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity .
I say:
When I tune my K2 past a signal, I can hear the steps.  I also sometimes think 
I can hear steps when I tune my K1 thru a signal.  I assumed that this is due 
to the nature of the multiturn pot.  I think it is wire wound and that the 
wiper cuts the wire turns  suddenly.  It could also be due to jerky tuning , in 
spite of efforts to the contrary.  It is very subtle, unlike the K2.   Give me 
a smooth PTO with the K2 signal path.   My long term idea is to build a stable 
analog VFO, using my Sierra band modules for premixing, to drive my K2.Rick 
- K7MW


I thought you were going to talk about the problem that occurs when
RFC15 is open. Then you can REALLY hear the steps. Mine went "bloop
bloop bloop" at would lose and regain lock with each step.

--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-23 Thread EricJ
It is sensitive to electromagnetic fields (speaker, rotor control, and PS)
if they are closer than about a foot or so. So is the K2. But mine isn't
sensitive to orientation. Maybe orientation puts it closer to an em field on
your operating desk.

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Darwin, Keith
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 1:04 PM
To: Elecraft Discussion List
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

My K1 is very sensitive to placement.  If I pick it up or turn it upside
down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.  If I move a speaker near
the rig (or a PS) it moves a lot.  If I just leave it alone it stays right
on frequency.

Does this sound like normal behavior?

- Keith KD1E -
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RE: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-23 Thread Darwin, Keith
My K1 is very sensitive to placement.  If I pick it up or turn it upside
down, I can hear it shift up or down in frequency.  If I move a speaker
near the rig (or a PS) it moves a lot.  If I just leave it alone it
stays right on frequency.

Does this sound like normal behavior?

- Keith KD1E - 
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1

2006-02-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I assume you are saying that you'd like to have a smoother VFO for the local
oscillator in your K1!

The K2 does NOT use a "multiturn pot" for the VFO. A K1 does. The K1 is a
totally different rig. The K2 uses a high-quality optical encoder for the
main tuning.  

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


Ron, AC7AC, said:
The K2 does this by using a
PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz "steps" and then varies the PLL reference
oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the
tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity . 
I say:
When I tune my K2 past a signal, I can hear the steps.  I also sometimes
think I can hear steps when I tune my K1 thru a signal.  I assumed that this
is due to the nature of the multiturn pot.  I think it is wire wound and
that the wiper cuts the wire turns  suddenly.  It could also be due to jerky
tuning , in spite of efforts to the contrary.  It is very subtle, unlike the
K2.   Give me a smooth PTO with the K2 signal path.   My long term idea is
to build a stable analog VFO, using my Sierra band modules for premixing, to
drive my K2.Rick - K7MW
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[Elecraft] PLL es BFO range test

2006-02-23 Thread Dave
I didn't get much of a response to my first request of help so I thought I'd
try again.

I have spent most of the day checking and re-checking and am not making any
headway.

 

 

I am building a K2 and everything has been going fine until the "PLL
Reference Oscillator Range test". Pressing the Band+ switch does not change
the PLL reference display (12113). The Band- switch changes the reference
display to 12067. Pressing the Band + switch again displays the PLL
reference freq. of 12113. 

 

I looked for bad solder connections, incorrect or missing components and
could not find any. 

 

Pressing on with the alignment process I found that the "BFO range test"

gave similar results. In this case neither the band+ nor the band- displayed
the BFO range. The display stayed at 4912 khz. 

 

Any Ideas?

 

 

 

Dave N1IX

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-23 Thread Mike Morrow
John wrote:

>I have had my K1 #1734 in use occaisionally since I built it.
>The other day I noticed quite abit of drift,even after warm up,
>like 1-2 khz. over an hour or so.

That sounds unusually high unless the ambient temperature around the K1 was 
changing significantly or the DC voltage was swinging very low.  I'd want to 
check how stable the output voltage the 6v regulator RF-U6 was. 

I often turn on my K1 and set it for 60.0 in the LCD display.  It doesn't 
matter which band, because the frequency display system senses and counts the 
LC VFO only, and senses neither of the two crystal oscillators that combine 
with the LC VFO to set the frequency of operation.  

I usually find several hours later that the display shows about 200 Hz lower, 
or 59.8.

After the initial warm up, I can reset the K1 display back to 60.0 and find it 
still indicating 60.0 twenty hours later.  I think that's very good for an LC 
VFO, so I have no complaints about K1 stability.

73,
Mike / KK5F
K1 #175
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[Elecraft] K2 v. K1

2006-02-23 Thread Rick Dettinger
Ron, AC7AC, said:
The K2 does this by using a
PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz "steps" and then varies the PLL reference
oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the
tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity . 
I say:
When I tune my K2 past a signal, I can hear the steps.  I also sometimes think 
I can hear steps when I tune my K1 thru a signal.  I assumed that this is due 
to the nature of the multiturn pot.  I think it is wire wound and that the 
wiper cuts the wire turns  suddenly.  It could also be due to jerky tuning , in 
spite of efforts to the contrary.  It is very subtle, unlike the K2.   Give me 
a smooth PTO with the K2 signal path.   My long term idea is to build a stable 
analog VFO, using my Sierra band modules for premixing, to drive my K2.Rick 
- K7MW
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 in QRP mode?

2006-02-23 Thread Don Brown
At least two ways. One unplug the power connector to the KPA100 and use the 
old round power connector on the K@ it will auto detect and go into QRP 
mode. Two, go into the secondary menu and turn off the KPA100. Of course you 
can also remove the KPA100 and install the QRP top but that is really not 
necessary un less you want to use the battery option then you would neet to 
either swap the tope or the ultimate is to build the KPA100 into an EC2 box 
then you can just unplug the K2 and go. You can also have the KAT100 live in 
the EC-2 box with the KPA100

Don Brown
KD5NDB


- Original Message - 
From: "Darwin, Keith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, February 23, 2006 10:55 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 in QRP mode?


What does it take to make a K2/100 run QRP?
  - Turn down the power? (fine for CW what about SSB?)
  - Unplug the KPA100 and put the old top back on?

- Keith KD1E -
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Thanks all! - RE: [Elecraft] K2 vs. K1 - Info please.

2006-02-23 Thread Darwin, Keith
Wow guys, Thanks so much for all the info.

You've answered my Q's in style and I now have all the info I need.

K2/100 sounds like a near perfect rig for my needs, time to get one.
The Omni V.9 is going up for sale.  We have a ham fest once a year and
it is this weekend.  I was going as a buyer but now it looks like I'll
be up there trying (once again) to both buy and sell at the same time.
Failing that, the rig will be on e-bay.

Then the hunt for a good builder or a good pre-owned K2/100 will begin.

Wish me luck!

73 all!

- Keith KD1E -
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[Elecraft] 4O3ANT

2006-02-23 Thread J F
Sorry Chris, 4O3ANT is YU for DXCC. It's a special
call participating in the WAP program. In fact, most
if not all of the suffix "ANT" stations are located in
the country of the prefix. That being the case,
VP8DJK, R1ANN and DT8A have all been active lately on
80 thru 20M CW.
73,
Julius
n2wn
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 vs. K1 - Info please.

2006-02-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Keith KD1E asked:

1.  How do the IF filters in the K2 compare to the audio filters in the K1.
I assume they provide more selectivity and greater stop-band rejection.  I
also assume the multiple IF stage filters in my Omni will provide even
greater selectivity.
 
2.  How does the RX noise level compare between the K2 and K1.  My K1 is a
quieter rig than the more complex Omni V that it sits on.  It is just nicer
to listen to.  If the K2 is similar to the K1 it would be a very sweet rig.
 
3.  AGC - Does the K2 have multiple AGC rates (fast & slow?)?
 
4.  Tuning rates.  K1 tunes very quickly.  Similar to analog rigs from the
80's.  I assume the K2 tunes slower, yes?
 
5.  Knob wobbliness.  The knobs on my K1 are just a bit wobbly.  The pots
are tight on the PCB but the shafts have some play.  Is this the case with
the K2?  I assume it uses the same pots and has the same feel.
 
6.  SWR protection of the finals.  Are the finals SWR protected in some way?




Keith, I don't own a K1 so I can't speak to the K1-specific issues. 

The K2 is a completely different rig from the K1, mechanically and
electrically. 

Regarding the AGC, the K1 uses audio-derived AGC while the K2 has an
I.F.-derived AGC. The I.F.-derived AGC is inherently faster to take hold
than audio AGC, producing smoother action on the "attack". That's a basic
limitation of any audio-derived AGC. It takes several cycles of rectified
signal to build up the voltage needed to control the gain. Several cycles of
signal happen much, much more quickly at the intermediate frequency than
they do at an audio frequency, so the control voltage is available much more
quickly in an I.F-derived system.

Yes, the K2's AGC has a fast and slow mode. And it has an "off" mode, which
I use a lot when tuning around. Although I will say that for this
"AGC-hater" I find the K2's AGC no problem at all. I often turn AGC off
because I don't want the receiver turning up the gain between signals. I
prefer to hear the background stay constant as I tune with the signals
standing out above it at various levels  according to their strengths,
rather than having everything adjusted to about the same sound level. If I
want to dig for a weak signal down near or in the noise, I turn up the gain
. 

The K2's tuning rates are variable in three steps from very fast, about 100
kHz per revolution, to about 6 kHz per revolution, and on down to about 1
kHz per revolution. The K2's tuning is controlled by an optical encoder, not
a pot, so the feel is very smooth and precise. The readout is in 10 Hz steps
but, thanks to a unique phase-locked loop (PLL) design used in the local
oscillator, the tuning is smooth with no 'steps'. The PLL local oscillator
is also very quiet electrically, avoiding the phase noise usually associated
with many PLL local oscillators that shows up as excess noise
indistinguishable from normal background QRN. The K2 does this by using a
PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz "steps" and then varies the PLL reference
oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the
tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity of an excellent "analog"
oscillator with the accuracy and stability of a good PLL. The dial reads out
in 10 Hz steps. The logic design limits the absolute accuracy to about 20 or
30 Hz, although it's not unusual for the K2 display to be within 10 Hz of
the actual frequency. 

I can't speak in any great detail about the protection circuits in the
finals for either the KPA100 or the K2. I know they both withstand repeated
transmits into an open load at full power setting without harm. The finals
in both the basic K2 and the KPA100 are very conservatively rated, handling
rather severe overloads and operating stresses without trouble.

Ron AC7AC
 

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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 in QRP mode?

2006-02-23 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Keith, KD1E asked:

What does it take to make a K2/100 run QRP?
  - Turn down the power? (fine for CW what about SSB?)
  - Unplug the KPA100 and put the old top back on?

--

Turn down the power. At 10 watts output the KPA100 shuts off automatically. 

You can also just power the K2 from the original coaxial power connector on
the back. If your KPA100 is installed and operational, you'll get a message
on power up that there is no KPA100 power source and the rig operates almost
as it would without the KPA100 attached. 

And, of course, you can switch tops. That's an attractive option for those
who want to haul minimum weight, or for those with a "QRP Top" equipped with
the internal battery or KAT2 internal automatic antenna tuning unit. 

The only difference in the way the rig operates, when the KPA100 is turned
off or the K2 is powered from the coaxial power connector instead of the
KPA100's high-current connector, is that the SWR bridge in the KPA always
stays in the circuit. You continue to see the same SWR/power reports that
you got with the KPA100 active. 

If I recall correctly, a bias supply in the KPA100 remains active even
though the amplifier is turned off or the K2 is powered through the coaxial
power plug. That means the K2 draws a few mA more of current than it would
if you removed the KPA100 entirely. 

If you remove the KPA100, the system reverts to the RF power output circuit
used by the basic K2. That's an RF voltmeter that monitors the K2 output to
control the power level and which does not contain an SWR bridge. 

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] K2/100 in QRP mode?

2006-02-23 Thread Darwin, Keith
What does it take to make a K2/100 run QRP?
  - Turn down the power? (fine for CW what about SSB?)
  - Unplug the KPA100 and put the old top back on?
 
- Keith KD1E -
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW dot problem

2006-02-23 Thread k4zm

Dave:

You have the keyer set to the automatic detect mode and it act like a 
straight key when you hold both paddles closed.  Tap the menu key and rotate 
the vfo knob until you see "inp". Press and hold the menu key to edit and 
then tap the display key this will toggle the "adet (Auto Detect) on and off 
tap the display key until it says off and then tap the menu key twice to get 
out of the menu.  You have the auto detect turned on and when it sees both 
the dit and dah contacts closed it changes the K2 keyer to the handkey mode.


73
Jim Younce K4ZM
K2  SN: 18 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 vs. K1 - Info please.

2006-02-23 Thread Mike Morrow
>1.  How do the IF filters in the K2 compare to the audio filters in the K1. 

I can't address the K2, but the variable bandpass filtering in the K1 takes 
place in the IF crystal filter network.  The audio filtering is fixed.

>5.  Knob wobbliness.  The knobs on my K1 are just a bit wobbly. 

Early K1 kits were provided with AF and RIT pots whose plastic shaft did not 
have much support, so there was a lot of wobble.  You can solve that by 
installing replacements from Elecraft.  The parts now being supplied (since 
2002??) have significantly greater shaft support and feel much much better.  
I'd assume that if you bought an early used K2, it would be likely that the 
earlier style pots would be found on it as well.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] K2 CW dot problem

2006-02-23 Thread Dave G3VGR
My K2 has developed a strange problem when using the keyer on CW. If I 
press and hold  the paddle for dashes, it sends a string of dashes 
correctly. If I press and hold the paddle for dots, it will send only 
one dot, then on releasing the paddle, I hear 2 lower frequency dits and 
the rig switches from the current VFO to the other VFO.


I removed the control board & checked the tracks from P3  pins 17&18 to 
the MCU, no shorts, opens or solder bridges.
Looking at the schematic,  it all looks very simple, just grounding pins 
29 & 30 of the MCU to send code.  Can anyone suggest what I should try next?

--
73, Dave G3VGR
K2 #4783

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[Elecraft] Test

2006-02-23 Thread Deni
Test
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[Elecraft] K2 vs. K1 - Info please.

2006-02-23 Thread Darwin, Keith
Yea, I know, we've discussed this before.  I'm not going to ask a
general question because it is too easy to get into an apples to oranges
comparison. But I've had the K1 for a bit now and have become familiar
with it's performance and operation.  Now I have a better basis for
understanding the K2.  So on to the questions.
 
1.  How do the IF filters in the K2 compare to the audio filters in the
K1.  I assume they provide more selectivity and greater stop-band
rejection.  I also assume the multiple IF stage filters in my Omni will
provide even greater selectivity.
 
2.  How does the RX noise level compare between the K2 and K1.  My K1 is
a quieter rig than the more complex Omni V that it sits on.  It is just
nicer to listen to.  If the K2 is similar to the K1 it would be a very
sweet rig.
 
3.  AGC - Does the K2 have multiple AGC rates (fast & slow?)?
 
4.  Tuning rates.  K1 tunes very quickly.  Similar to analog rigs from
the 80's.  I assume the K2 tunes slower, yes?
 
5.  Knob wobbliness.  The knobs on my K1 are just a bit wobbly.  The
pots are tight on the PCB but the shafts have some play.  Is this the
case with the K2?  I assume it uses the same pots and has the same feel.
 
6.  SWR protection of the finals.  Are the finals SWR protected in some
way?
 
What I'm thinking right now is I'll sell the Omni V and the K1 and buy a
K2/100 with SSB.  I'm not a builder so I'd be looking for a very late SN
used rig or may just buy new and have a pro build it for me.  Hmmm, lots
to think about ...
 
think think think ...
 
- Keith KD1E -
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 #5341

2006-02-23 Thread Dave Sergeant
On 23 Feb 2006 at 4:01, Chris:

> 
> K2 #5341 is up and running Have just worked 4o3ant for a new DXCC in
> antarctica. it is working great .now what should I add to it the auto
> atu the dsp unit ?
> 

Don't get too excited. The stations on this week with the suffix ANT 
are indeed celebrating Antarctica operations but are operating from 
their home countries.

4O3ANT is in Yugoslavia... (he was 599++ in G land the other day)

73 Dave G3YMC

http://www.davesergeant.com

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