RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

2006-07-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Jim, K9YC wrote:
Proximity to the radio is meaningless. The following comments 
apply to virtually ALL Ethernet devices, including your computers. 
What matters are:

1) The antennas connected to the Ethernet device -- their length, 
and their proximity to YOUR antennas (but NOT to your radio)



My router for a while sat a on a shelf just about 20 inches from my
link-coupled tuner. This is an open tuner design using a large 3 dia by
10 long open coil with a big transmitting-type variable cap across it (you
can see a picture of it on www.QRZ.com; just look up AC7AC. The router was
on a shelf under the desk about where my knees are in the picture). 

Sure, this is a balanced antenna system and the idea is to prevent pickup
and radiation from the balanced feed and tuner, but the balance is never
perfect. As the photo shows, the feeders drop down near the table top (and
the wireless router just below) where they pass through a header to the
outside.  

As I wrote before, digital stuff generates noise; I'd be the last person to
deny that. It's sometimes very hard to do anything effective about it.
Still, the situation varies so much from installation to installation that
only the most general rules of thumb might suggest what an particular
installation will produce. 

That is what I was trying to convey by relating my particular experience. 

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] K1 (2040) speaker dead

2006-07-10 Thread Ruchan Ozatay
Thank you very much to KR2F, AB9CA, AC7AC, K7SVV, KB9BVN, K4ZM and N0SS and 
others for the usefull information.

I will ask Elecraft for new earphone jack to replace.

73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH
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[Elecraft] My K2 no longer transmits.....which components might need replacing?

2006-07-10 Thread stephen Farthing
Hello everyone,

During the alignment of the Top Band option of my K2 I did a stupid thing 
and connected the dummy load to the wrong antenna connector. I used the tune 
button and tried to align the filters to set the TX power using the power level 
set to 2 watts. I got a high current warning on the display and then no power 
out. So it looks like I have damaged the PA by transmitting into no load. The 
net result is that I have no TX on all bands. There was no smoke, no excessive 
heat and no visual damage to components. The K2 ATU option displays 0.1:1 when 
I hit the tune button (incidently I thought the K2 should display power out 
when the tune button is pressed) and the Motorola test set I use indicates 0 
power out. RX seems fine.

I can only work on the rig at the weekends and there is no friendly 
component shop handy where I live. Clearly I will need to replace something. So 
I was thinking of ordering the components which might have failed by mail order 
and what I dont use will go into my spares store. Any ideas what I should order 
and or where the fault might lie

Thanks in advance,

Steve
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[Elecraft] drilling acrylic

2006-07-10 Thread J F
Ron,

When we had to drill acrylic at work we used a mixture
of dish detergent and water around 4 to 1 mix seemed
to work fine. Drill at a slower speed and use the
mixture liberally to get a nice hole (easy clean up as
well).

Make sure you clean the bit afterwards otherwise most
will rust.

73,
Julius
n2wn  
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RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

2006-07-10 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi all,
I have older Linksys wireless and wire  routers and they are the noisiest
things in the house.  I end up turning the entire network off when operating
HF.

Steve, W2MY

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.10/383 - Release Date: 7/7/2006
 

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[Elecraft] Re: network equipment noise (was: Wireless Router Recommendations)

2006-07-10 Thread Geert Jan de Groot
 I have a Linksys WRT54G which is about three years old. It produces so much
 noise that I can't even listen to the local BCB station on 700KHz.

Try to configure all your ports to be 10 mbit ethernet, not 100 mbit.
With some equipment, you can configure ports this way, 
with other equipment, you can configure the link partner 
to be this way, and with bad luck you'll need an old 10mbit-only hub.

Chances are it makes a difference. 100BASE-TX uses signalling that
uses a wide spectrum, 10BASE-T is manchester encoding which spikes
every 5 MHz and in some cases I was able to fix noise problems
this way.

Oh, and you did try to disconnect all ethernet wires to see if it
makes a difference, yes?

73,

Geert Jan PE1HZG

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RE: [Elecraft] Value of K2??

2006-07-10 Thread Craig D. Smith
Jay ...

For the past few months, I have been keeping track of the prices obtained on
Ebay for Elecraft rigs.  (I know, too much time on my hands - I need a K3 to
build!)  I believe this to be a fair indication of actual value.  The
average price of a K2 without the 100W amp has been $746.

For others who may be interested, more complete data is listed below.  I did
not include rigs that were partially assembled, non-functional or that
seemed to be in poor condition.  There will be a different mix of options,
but I did not account for this.

Rig# sold Ave Price
K1   20$ 319
KX1   9$ 451
K2   20$ 746
K2 100W 8$ 1093

73   Craig   AC0DS



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Re: [Elecraft] Value of K2??

2006-07-10 Thread Joe-aa4nn

It would be misleading to average out the price for a K2 because
one knows not of the options installed.  In K0GU's offering the
asking price should start with the price of the 4 kits, viz. $776.00.
Buyer pays shipping.  Any more than that would be too much.
de Joe, aa4nn
---

Rig# sold Ave Price
K1   20$ 319
KX1   9$ 451
K2   20$ 746
K2 100W 8$ 1093
73   Craig   AC0DS



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RE: [Elecraft] My K2 no longer transmits.....which components mightneed replacing?

2006-07-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

If you want to have all the components that possibly could have failed
available, you could order one of every part in the K2 and the ATU transmit
chain!

For a more sensible approach, you must first do some isolation steps.
First remove the KAT2, then see if you have power out of the basic K2.
If the basic K2 is not transmitting, then use an RF Probe (one came with the
K2 kit) or a 'scope and follow the steps for Transmit Signal Tracing that
are shown in the K2 manual Appendix E.

Once you have localized the problem stage, then you can more easily isolate
to the failing component.  You likely only have one thing that has failed.

This kind of orderly approach to troubleshooting is more productive than
just replacing a bunch of parts in hopes that you get to the bad one - that
'shotgunning' approach has only a small chance of fixing the problem and can
lead to damaged boards and other frustrations.  The initial steps to
troubleshooting are outlined in the Appendix E of the manual, and can often
resolve the problem quickly if it is not difficult.  More obscure problems
can usually be found by the signal tracing steps outlined in the manual.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 During the alignment of the Top Band option of my K2 I did a
 stupid thing and connected the dummy load to the wrong antenna
 connector. I used the tune button and tried to align the filters
 to set the TX power using the power level set to 2 watts. I got a
 high current warning on the display and then no power out. So it
 looks like I have damaged the PA by transmitting into no load.
 The net result is that I have no TX on all bands. There was no
 smoke, no excessive heat and no visual damage to components. The
 K2 ATU option displays 0.1:1 when I hit the tune button
 (incidently I thought the K2 should display power out when the
 tune button is pressed) and the Motorola test set I use indicates
 0 power out. RX seems fine.

 I can only work on the rig at the weekends and there is no
 friendly component shop handy where I live. Clearly I will need
 to replace something. So I was thinking of ordering the
 components which might have failed by mail order and what I dont
 use will go into my spares store. Any ideas what I should order
 and or where the fault might lie

 Thanks in advance,

 Steve


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RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter Probe not working S/N 5567

2006-07-10 Thread McMillan, Terry

Good Morning Don,

Thanks for your assistance, I found the problem and the Freq. counter is
now working.

I used one of the 2n's from the RF board and replaced Q9.  But, this
did not fix the problem so I checked the voltage at the base and Q9 and
found none.  Checking the voltage at Q10 I found .73Vdc.  Checked for
voltage at RP4 pin 1 and found none, checked RP4 pin 2 and found
3.something.  Reheated pins 1 and 2 and bang problem fixed, .73Vdc at Q9
base and freq. counter working.

Thanks for your help.  It's been a long time since I followed a
schematic.  All in all a good learning experience.  Now back to
building.

Have a great week.

Terry
VA6MAC
s/n 5567

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 3:33 PM
To: McMillan, Terry
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter Probe not working S/N 5567


Terry,

I don't know the RF characteristics of those replacement transistors, so
I would be hesitant to use them in an RF application - I suggest you use
the 2Ns that are intended for RF Board Q11 and Q13 as your
replacements for the MPS5179s and then use the NTE123AP transistors for
Q11 and Q13 - they will owrk in those positions just fine becuase they
do not handle RF, so only the DC gain counts, and if they are good
replacements, they will work there because that circuit only sets the
bias level for the PA output transistors.

Hey, at 11 cents each, buy 9 of them for $1 and you will have a few
spares!!!

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-
 From: McMillan, Terry [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 5:11 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter Probe not working S/N 5567



 Don,

 I called the local electronics shop they could not find a cross
 reference for Q9/Q10 MPS5179.  But have a cross reference for 2n,
 a NTE123AP.

 At 11 cents each can I use the NTE123AP to replace Q9/Q10?  This would

 save shipping from the US to Canada and I can walk over to the shop so

 delivery is quick.

 Thanks again for your help.

 Terry VA6MAC

 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, July 03,
 2006 1:25 PM
 To: McMillan, Terry
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter Probe not working S/N 5567


 Terry,

 If you do not have an oscilliscope to check through the Q9/Q10 path to

 the microprocessor input, then yes the next thing to try is replacing
 Q9 and Q10.  If you have stock on 2Ns, try those in place of the
 2N5179s.  Note that I have ordered some 2N5179s that did not work
 properly in this application, but all the ones I have obtained from
 Elecraft worked fine - my conclusion is that all 2N5179s are not
 created equal and I don't know why.

 You can 'borrow' 2Ns from the unbuilt part of your K2 and order
 replacements from Scott.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


  -Original Message-
  From: McMillan, Terry [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Monday, July 03, 2006 12:27 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter Probe not working S/N 5567
 
 
 
  Good Morning Don,
 
  Thanks for your help.
 
  I verified again that the pins are not reversed in the housing;
 the  shield is closest to the side panel.
 
  I then checked c22 with a 12 pf cap connected in series with a
 test  lead, still nothing displayed on the panel except 0.00.
 Using  another RXvr I do detect a 4MHz signal at C22 so it does look
 like the

  reference oscillator is working. So it would appear to be a
 component  in the counter circuit on the board at fault.
 
  I rechecked:
 
  Solder bridges - None
  Q9  Q10: are MPS5179 and oriented properly
  RP4: 8x-2-823, I questioned [EMAIL PROTECTED] if this is a sub for
  77083823. They confirmed it was.
  C37: 103
  C38: 681
  C39: 103
 
  What's next, replace Q9  Q10?
 
  Terry VA6MAC
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: July 2, 2006
  7:41

  PM
  To: McMillan, Terry; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter Probe not working S/N 5567
 
  Terry,
 
  Is there a possibility that you have the pins in the housing
  reversed?

  The shield should be closest to the side panel.
 
  There is just not much to the frequency probe - a piece of coax with

  a

  10 pf capacitor in series with the center conductor, so not
 really  much to go wrong.
 
  To test the counter (without the probe), you can connect a clip
 lead  with a series 10 pf capacitor from the counter input to the
 control  board (pin furtherest away from the side panel) to C22 (any
 10 pf cap  will do - use one
  from the kit, or a 12 pf if you can't find a 10 pf) - if you find a
  reading anywhere near 4 MHz, then the counter is working and you
  will find
 your
  trouble in the probe - or there is a chance that the reference
  oscillator is not working (and that is a bigger problem).  If you
  have another
 receiver,
  connect a short antenna wire and put it close ot C22 to 

RE: [Elecraft] Frequency Counter Probe not working S/N 5567

2006-07-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
Terry,

I'm glad you found it - congratulations on the good troubleshooting steps.

73,
Don W3FPR
 

 -Original Message-
 
 Thanks for your assistance, I found the problem and the Freq. counter is
 now working.
 
 I used one of the 2n's from the RF board and replaced Q9.  But, this
 did not fix the problem so I checked the voltage at the base and Q9 and
 found none.  Checking the voltage at Q10 I found .73Vdc.  Checked for
 voltage at RP4 pin 1 and found none, checked RP4 pin 2 and found
 3.something.  Reheated pins 1 and 2 and bang problem fixed, .73Vdc at Q9
 base and freq. counter working.
 
 Thanks for your help.  It's been a long time since I followed a
 schematic.  All in all a good learning experience.  Now back to
 building.
 
 
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[Elecraft] Lettering EC cases?

2006-07-10 Thread rt_clay
What is good way to apply lettering to the EC cases? I need to put labels on a 
project I just finished.  Usually I just resort to the Sharpie, but something 
neater would be nice!

Tor
N4OGW


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Re: [Elecraft] Lettering EC cases?

2006-07-10 Thread Joe-aa4nn

There are sheets of rub-off-letters which you can rub off
onto the EC case to spell whatever you want.  More at:
http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/group_id/392/HeadLine-Rub-On-Lettering.htm

You can make your own words with a little more expensive but simple process 
at:

http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/Dry%20Decals%20product%20page.htm

I am uncertain how well these letters will conform and stick to the rough 
finish of Elecraft cases.


de Joe, aa4nn

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[Elecraft] Blackwidow

2006-07-10 Thread John
The Blackwidow paddle is a good addition for a kit built station. The kit 
went together well and operation is smooth. The hardest part of the build 
was finishing the brass components. A fun project. and the price is great. 
Looks good along side of the K2's and K1.


Pictures of my finished Blackwidow at:

http://00497f5.netsolhost.com/radio/Blackwid02.jpg

http://00497f5.netsolhost.com/radio/Blackwid04.jpg

John
k7up

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RE: [Elecraft] Antennas for use with Elecraft T1 ATU

2006-07-10 Thread thomaskd
Thanks to everyone who provided advice on my antenna 
question.

My Elecraft balun kit showed up today and I am going to get it 
built.  I will try out of some of the ideas from this message 
thread and hopefully get some good outside operating in over 
the next month.  I think I have everything I need.

If you hear an unsteady CW fist and a signal that sounds like 
the antenna is waving around in the wind.check to see if it is 
me!  If the prosigns are messed upthen it is even more 
likely that it is me.

73 de Keith KB3ILS
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Re: [Elecraft] Alignment tools

2006-07-10 Thread Alexandra Carter
There are some ceramic tools out there, under the name pro'skit or  
pros'kit.


Made in Japan, good stuff! I think radioshack.com has 'em.

73 de Alex NS6Y.

On Jul 7, 2006, at 12:16 PM, Steve Knapp wrote:

When trying to tweak my KX1 I noticed that most of my plastic tools  
were too

weak, and metal tools changed the setting.

Looking around I found a few that seemed interesting.

http://cgi.ebay.com/IF-Transformer-Alignment-Tool-Kit-HAM-antique- 
Radio_W0QQitemZ140002425458QQihZ004QQcategoryZ4671QQssPageNameZWDVWQQr 
dZ1QQcmdZViewItem


http://www.wihatools.com/270serie.htm

Having had good luck with Wiha, I bought one of those. We'll see  
how it works

out.

FYI!
Steve K.
KA9QOA.

--
Steve Knapp
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[Elecraft] KX1 vs. FT-817

2006-07-10 Thread Alexandra Carter

With all this talk of nearly-deaf KX1's I'm beginning to wonder.

Which has a better reciever, the KX1 or the Yaesu FT-817? Because in  
my experience, the FT-817 is Much better. Could I have built my KX1  
with the deafness problem and not known it?


73 de Alex NS6Y

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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

2006-07-10 Thread Alexandra Carter
In my reading about green radios I can't afford (but want anyway) and  
in various readings I've heard that detecting the 455-kHz LO of a  
superhet isn't all that hard, and that for instance in countries that  
require a radio license, they use such techniques to check if people  
in their houses have radios (or TVs) that they're not on record of  
having licenses for! And, in a lot of the military radios, the  
shielding is VERY good so that detection is much harder to do.


73 de Alex NS6Y.

On Jul 9, 2006, at 5:29 AM, Gil Stacy wrote:


But the German radar detector receivers used supperregenerative
detectors,which radiate a weak signal.

Don't know whether this is apocryphal or not, but I had heard from a
former USAF EW tech that the VC in Viet Nam in the early days  
figured out
how to make U.S. field superhets' LO howl , giving away qth,  
causing some

units to switch to TRF technology.

Gil NN4CW

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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

2006-07-10 Thread Alexandra Carter
Aha that sounds like Pycrete! Fine wood fibers, mixed with water to  
make a slurry, and frozen. Interesting stuff, read up on it if you  
want to be entertained! 73 de Alex NS6Y.


On Jul 9, 2006, at 7:26 AM, J F wrote:


Didn't the allies look into building aircraft carriers
from ice? if you had impregnated the ice with say fine
copper mess, would it not also be somewhat of an RF
sheild... or maybe just a good ground plane for the
minature 160M vertical ummm I've said too much
already  ;o)

73,
Julius
n2wn

Some nice QRP signals on 40M SSB during IARU

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Re: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)

2006-07-10 Thread W2AGN
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 In a message dated 7/8/06 8:29:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 writes:


   
 Field Day rules should change to allow a CW 
 station to operate QRP and get the added score for being QRP, with 
 another station working SSB at 1500 watts who get the usual 1 point,  
 per contact.
 

 It's not about mode-vs.-mode. It's about being able to mix various power 
 levels in the same group.

   
 Not sure who to write and ask for the change.
 

 ARRL Contest Committee. Also put it in the Soapbox comments on the ARRL 
 website.

 But it has to be presented the right way. CW-vs.-SSB isn't the right way, 
 because non-phone modes already get double the points.
   

The way the trend is, it is more likely we will see 5 points for each
email originated via Winlink as a future score.

-- 
  _____  
 / \  / \  / \  / \  / \   John L. Sielke
( W )( 2 )( A )( G )( N )  http://w2agn.net
 \_/  \_/  \_/  \_/  \_/   http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn
CRUSTY OLD CURMUDGEON, AND PROUD OF IT
(AGN and AGN? are Trademarks of John L. Sielke and may not be
used without permission)

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 vs. FT-817

2006-07-10 Thread k4zm
I can't speak for other KX1's but I just finished building SN: 1542 and 
checked the sensitivity of it with my Cushman CE-6A Service Monitor and I 
was able to hear the signal generator set to 0.1 microvolts on all four 
bands (80-40-30  20).


73
Jim Younce K4ZM 



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[Elecraft] KPA 100 toroid sewing

2006-07-10 Thread John Wiener

I am winding L1: 27 turns of #22 red enamel wire on a RED T50-2 core.

I get to 22 turns and the internal parts of coiled wire touch..   
I.e., no room to make more turns.  What am I doing wrong?


Am I using right core, wire?

Thanks!

John
AB8WH

PS,
I'm back.
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[Elecraft] Re: KX1 vs. FT-817

2006-07-10 Thread wayne burdick
Alex, a deaf KX1 would be one that has an assembly error somewhere. 
The KX1 has excellent sensitivity and plenty of audio output. We 
recommend earbuds or other sensitive headphones, but it can also be 
used with a small speaker as long as you use a stereo plug.


The FT817 certainly has more audio output, which is appropriate since 
it's often used in mobile installations. But in terms of MDS, the KX1 
should be as good or better. The KX1 also comes with a narrow crystal 
filter -- optional on the FT-817.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Receiver-caused RFI (WAS: plexiglass)

2006-07-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Alex wrote:

In my reading about green radios I can't afford (but want anyway) and  
in various readings I've heard that detecting the 455-kHz LO of a  
superhet isn't all that hard, and that for instance in countries that  
require a radio license, they use such techniques to check if people  
in their houses have radios (or TVs) that they're not on record of  
having licenses for! And, in a lot of the military radios, the  
shielding is VERY good so that detection is much harder to do.



That's true for some tens of feet around for unshielded vacuum-tube radios
that used fairly robust local oscillators. In countries where a license for
a receiver is required, authorities sometimes located receivers by driving
up and down streets with special listening vans. They could often hear the
local oscillator if they were quite close to the receiver's location.  

Local oscillators don't radiate well. The antenna input to the receiver is
tuned to the signal frequency, well off of the L.O. frequency, so it and any
antenna doesn't radiate much. It's the same for TV's; There's virtually no
radiation from the antennas. 

What receiver DOES radiate well enough to be heard for miles around -
sometimes around the world - is a regenerative detector without an RF stage
to isolate the detector from the antenna. In that case, the detector (when
oscillating in autodyne mode for CW reception) is oscillating on the same
frequency the antenna circuit is tuned to, and well-coupled to the antenna!
Vacuum tube regenerative detectors might produce a watt or more of RF, and
solid state detectors can produce 10s or 100s of milliwatts. 

In the late 1920's and early 1930's, before superheterodynes became popular
for Ham use, the QRM from oscillating regenerative detectors was a very
serious problem on many Ham bands. Armstrong (who invented both the
regenerative detector and the superheterodyne circuit the Elecraft receivers
use) wrote open letters to Hams that were published in journals like QST
begging them to add RF amplifiers ahead of their regenerative detectors.

That's still true today for people using vintage designs from that era, but
they are relatively few in number and we're assaulted by so much other RFI
(read the recent thread on digital RFI) that they're seldom noticed.  

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

2006-07-10 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604
Habbakkuk- and yes, it was built with Pyecrete.  A model of the real
   thing was built at Patrica Lake in Canada.  The most useful purpose
   would have been to bridge the Mid-Atlantic Gap, but by the time
   the thing could have been built, aircraft range had increased, and
   escort carriers had been built, to make it moot.

73, doug


   From: Alexandra Carter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2006 10:13:48 -0700

   Aha that sounds like Pycrete! Fine wood fibers, mixed with water to  
   make a slurry, and frozen. Interesting stuff, read up on it if you  
   want to be entertained! 73 de Alex NS6Y.

   On Jul 9, 2006, at 7:26 AM, J F wrote:

Didn't the allies look into building aircraft carriers
from ice? if you had impregnated the ice with say fine
copper mess, would it not also be somewhat of an RF
sheild... or maybe just a good ground plane for the
minature 160M vertical ummm I've said too much
already  ;o)
   
73,
Julius
n2wn
   
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Re: [Elecraft] Blackwidow

2006-07-10 Thread Tony Morgan

Nice looking key John, looks like you did a nice job on it.

73
Tony W7GO
- Original Message - 
From: John [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Blackwidow


The Blackwidow paddle is a good addition for a kit built station. The kit 
went together well and operation is smooth. The hardest part of the build 
was finishing the brass components. A fun project. and the price is great. 
Looks good along side of the K2's and K1.


Pictures of my finished Blackwidow at:

http://00497f5.netsolhost.com/radio/Blackwid02.jpg

http://00497f5.netsolhost.com/radio/Blackwid04.jpg

John
k7up

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Re: [Elecraft] Detecting the LO [was: plexiglass]

2006-07-10 Thread Vic K2VCO

Alexandra Carter wrote:

I've heard that detecting the 455-kHz LO of a superhet 
isn't all that hard, and that for instance in countries that require a 
radio license, they use such techniques to check if people in their 
houses have radios (or TVs) that they're not on record of having 
licenses for! 


Here in Fresno, there's a billboard that detects the FM station to which 
car radios passing it are tuned, and summarizes the data for marketing 
purposes.


I always switch to AM when I see it.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 toroid sewing

2006-07-10 Thread Vic K2VCO

John Wiener wrote:

I am winding L1: 27 turns of #22 red enamel wire on a RED T50-2 core.

I get to 22 turns and the internal parts of coiled wire touch..  I.e., 
no room to make more turns.  What am I doing wrong?


Am I using right core, wire?


Make sure the core is 1/2 in diameter.  There's a red T44 core that is 
only 0.44 in diameter.  And of course make sure the wire is no. 22!

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] Found my mistake

2006-07-10 Thread John Wiener

Vic,
Thanks for the heads up...
Yes, I just realized the subtle (to me) diff in core sizes of the red  
ones.

Corrected and movin' on.

Thanks again,

John
AB8WH
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA 100 toroid sewing

2006-07-10 Thread Vin Cortina
John,

Forgive me if I am misunderstanding your question, but if all you mean is
the wire is starting to touch itself at the inner part of the toroid core,
don't worry.  It is insulated, and it will not matter.  Just try as much as
possible to have the turns evenly spaced, and covering whatever total
percentage of the core as is specified in your instructions.  Usually this
is about 2/3 to 3/4 or the entire core's diameter.

I hope I am of some help.


Regards,


Vin Cortina  KR2F

K1-4 s/n:1977
KX1  s/n:1476




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Wiener
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 4:54 PM
To: Elecraft email
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA 100 toroid sewing


I am winding L1: 27 turns of #22 red enamel wire on a RED T50-2 core.

I get to 22 turns and the internal parts of coiled wire touch..
I.e., no room to make more turns.  What am I doing wrong?

Am I using right core, wire?

Thanks!

John
AB8WH

PS,
I'm back.
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Re: [Elecraft] Blackwidow

2006-07-10 Thread Nick Waterman
John wrote:
 The Blackwidow paddle is a good addition for a kit built station. The
 kit went together well and operation is smooth.

Niiice, and like your pics.

My Black Widow kit turned up on Saturday.

 The hardest part of the build was finishing the brass components.

Yah, I started following Jerry's instructions, with the sandpaper on
a flat surface, spent hours and hours sanding it and barely making a
dent in the very visible machining marks. Then I attacked it with the
buzzy electric sander, and within a minute or two had the whole lot
clean and flat. It now has a matt finish, with millions of tiny spirals
and swirls on it. I can't decide whether to leave it as it is, or go
onto the much finer polishing next. Looks like you went for the mirror
effect - was it worth the effort?

-- 
Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209.
use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Why didn't Noah swat those two mosquitoes?
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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

2006-07-10 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 7/10/06 4:40:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 , they use such techniques to check if people  
 in their houses have radios (or TVs) that they're not on record of  
 having licenses for! 

Bit of history:

Way back about 100 years ago, there was little or no regulation of radio - or 
wireless telegraphy as it was known then.

With only a few short-range experimental stations on the air, there was 
little need for regulation, but as radio technology and popularity improved, 
the 
need for rules was obvious.

Here in the USA, various legislation was proposed by the parties involved, 
mostly the Navy and commercial wireless companies such as Marconi and 
Telefunken. This was 1910, before the FCC, ARRL, broadcasting, or the Titanic 
disaster 
that resulted in much more comprehensive regulation of radio.

Their model was the telegraph legislation. Why not just extend the rules 
written for wire communication to wireless? It had been done for the telephone, 
why not for radio?

The proposed rules did not differentiate 'receiving station' from 
'transmitting station'. The commercial folks liked the idea of licenses for all 
stations 
because it would help keep people from listening in.

A few interested amateurs/experimenters and organizations had gotten 
themselves involved, however. One of them was Charles Stewart of St. David's, 
PA, 
representing the Wireless Association of Pennsylvania. He argued that there was 
a 
vast difference between wired and wireless, and that the 'waves come upon us 
whether we bid them or not'. Also involved was the Radio Club of America.

Because of these efforts the legislators were convinced to only license 
transmitting stations in the USA. 

But the UK and most other countries had no Charlie Stewart, and they licensed 
both receivers and transmitters. When Paul Godley went to England in 1921 to 
listen for American amateurs on 200 meters, he needed a license for the 
receiver. Since he wasn't British, he could not be issued a license, and a 
British 
assistant actually held the receiving license. 

Charlie Stewart became 3ZS and was one of the founders and vice presidents of 
the ARRL. He passed away in February 1936, the same month as HPM and Mrs. 
Maxim.

St. David's is right next to Wayne, where I live. I think I have located his 
house, too.

---

The use of detector vans is lampooned in a Monty Pyhton skit, in which a 
man tries to obtain a license for his pet bee named Eric.  


73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] Local Oscillator Radiation

2006-07-10 Thread Fred Jensen

Subject was pexiglass

John D'Ausilio wrote:
 when the cops break down the door and drag away dad, the VO comes
 in Have you renewed your television license?

Yes indeed, and a little frightening for us Colonists, what with all 
that pursuit of happiness babble and all.  However, the radiation from 
the TV comes primarily from the parts that make the screen light up with 
a raster (if it's a CRT, and then, of course it probably was) ... fairly 
high voltage sharp-edged signals with lots of harmonics ... and they do 
radiate, at least for many tens of meters, on very predictable 
frequencies.  The LO's are still pretty weak and generally below the noise.


Connection to Elecraft:

1.  I can't hear the K2 LO on my wide-band service monitor with the 
input connected to the K2 antenna connector or laying next to the power 
cable so I assume the NSA can't either


2.  Elecraft products do not have CRT's associated with them so no one 
is likely to break down your door on that account while you're on the air.


3.  When transmitting with my K2, it is my sincere desire that 
*everyone* can hear me.  (OK, that 'connection' is a little weak)


There was one thread some time ago that began with an Elecraft question 
that slowly morphed into dentistry (don't ask me how). This one has 
covered transparent plastic, tools to work with it, advisability of 
using it, sources of plastic, war (that was a big jump, no?), military 
radio equipment, frozen battleships made of ice (not sure how that 
happened), TV police, and at least one Urban Legend.  I wonder how far 
it will continue.


N0SS:  A friend agreed to fix the Mitrek repeater and controller 
problems that filled my workbench, and I'm back to fixing the KPA100 
problem that resulted from the attempt to fix the 40m parasitic problem. 
 Stay tuned.


Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
K2 4398
KX1 897
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2006-07-10 Thread Bob Robertson
Guess I was out in left field when Blackwidow keys were discussed.

Anyone got a URL for a web site, mailing address, 

NJ5A
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[Elecraft] Black Wiodow Paddle URL

2006-07-10 Thread Sanger, Joseph
http://www.w5jh.net/Black_Widow.htm


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Robertson
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 9:06 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] (no subject)

Guess I was out in left field when Blackwidow keys were discussed.

Anyone got a URL for a web site, mailing address, 

NJ5A
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Re: [Elecraft] Blackwidow

2006-07-10 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Keep the info on the Blackwidow coming. Until I can afford an Elecraft Hex 
Key, this will probably be my paddle.

I don't do well with brass, as my perspiration tends to leave marks on it. 
Just wonder if you Blackwidow paddle owners treated the brass with Everbrite 
and how well that worked.

Darrell


On July 10, 2006 03:54 pm, Nick Waterman wrote:
 John wrote:
  The Blackwidow paddle is a good addition for a kit built station. The
  kit went together well and operation is smooth.

 Niiice, and like your pics.

 My Black Widow kit turned up on Saturday.

  The hardest part of the build was finishing the brass components.

 Yah, I started following Jerry's instructions, with the sandpaper on
 a flat surface, spent hours and hours sanding it and barely making a
 dent in the very visible machining marks. Then I attacked it with the
 buzzy electric sander, and within a minute or two had the whole lot
 clean and flat. It now has a matt finish, with millions of tiny spirals
 and swirls on it. I can't decide whether to leave it as it is, or go
 onto the much finer polishing next. Looks like you went for the mirror
 effect - was it worth the effort?

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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Re: [Elecraft] Field day rules

2006-07-10 Thread Stuart Rohre
All field days start on GMT, ie at 1800 Z Sat., or local 1 PM Central Time 
zone.  They all end at 1800Z Sun.

The only exception has been if you do not start set up until 1800Z, you can 
operate extra time on Sun. after 1800Z.  But NO one is heard on doing that, 
the bands have a huge vacuum at 1800 Z Sun. as all collapse!

73,
Stuart
K5KVH 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 condensation problem

2006-07-10 Thread Bill Coleman


On Jul 5, 2006, at 11:22 AM, Fred (FL) wrote:


I am puzzled by the reports of condensation
accumulating inside a K2, in a marine environment?


No boats here! Just an incredibly humid Georgia June weekend during  
Field Day. I had the same problem last year and I completely  
disassembled the K2 and found drops of condensation.



Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: What's wrong with Serial

2006-07-10 Thread Bill Coleman


On Jun 21, 2006, at 12:49 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:

Mini-Dins are simply not reliable. The connectors break all-too  
easily, mostly due to the pins bending if the connectors are not  
aligned just right. We intentionally moved away from them at Apple  
because of this problem.


And here I thought that it was because USB was a better solution  
At least, that's what they told me at WWDC 1997. Instead, it was the  
stupid connectors for Serial and ADB.


There really isn't a good connector solution at present. If you  
look at what is available in a semi-rugged form factor, we are  
limited to D-shells, DINs (not mini-Dins), RJs, and not much else.  
The RJs are not shielded, so we end up duplicating connectors out  
of necessity.


USB connectors are highly reliable, sheilded, and you could put two  
of them in the space that a single DB-9 fits


I think Wayne made a good choice with the connector, and it is up  
to us to realize that it is not standard RS-232 and just deal with  
it. Of course, few, if any, other ham rigs have standard RS-232  
connectors on their rear apron...


Indeed.

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Serial Port - DB-9 vs. RJ-45

2006-07-10 Thread Bill Coleman


On Jun 21, 2006, at 7:31 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Four problems with using an RJ-45 for the port on the K2:

- Only 8 wires
- Not shielded
- Could be mistaken for something else just as easily as a DB-9


Don't use it as a serial port -- use it as a 10BaseT connection.


And now the big one:

Crimping an RJ-45 plug requires a special tool (mine only cost  
$30), and
the plugs are one-shot items. DB-9 is no harder to solder than a PC  
board, no

special tool, and you can reuse them.


I just buy pre-fabbed RJ-45 jumpers, the can be found at any computer  
store, and at most better home improvement stores.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Slow Code Watering Holes?

2006-07-10 Thread Bill Coleman


On Jun 26, 2006, at 5:22 PM, Stephen W. Kercel wrote:

At the KS1R Field Day operation we had a bunch of 5 wpm operators  
who wanted to try their hand at CW on our GOTA station. They were  
very disappointed because they could not find any slow stations,  
and the 20+ wpm CW that most Field Day operators were running  
simply overwhelmed them. Nevertheless, they are interested in  
improving their overall on the air proficiency in CW.


Are there particular frequencies where slow code operators who want  
to talk to other slow code operators hang out?


Traditionally, the Novice bands were the place for really slow-paced  
CW. Unfortunately, the novice license isn't the route of entry into  
ham radio any more, and slow CW activity has diminished to the point  
that it is rare to find.


Generally speaking, the high-end of the CW bands are where you find  
the slowest operators. But, during Field Day, you're not likely to  
find many ops at 5 wpm.


The best thing to do in this case is to call CQ at the speed you wish  
to receive, and hope someone calls at your speed.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Slow Code Watering Holes? (OT)

2006-07-10 Thread Bill Coleman


On Jun 26, 2006, at 7:57 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

The magic of the Novice bands seemed to start failing when higher  
power and VFO operation were sanctioned and when Novice licenses  
became renewable.


Nope. I was licensed as a Novice from November 1975-1977, and during  
that time there was lots of low-speed CW - VFO controlled, and during  
the summer of 1976, power levels went to 200 watts PEP.


I think end of Novice activity came when the no-code Technician was  
adopted.


Hopefully, the FCC will get around to passing the new regulations and  
Novices and Tech's with CW will be able to use the majority of the CW  
bands on 80, 40 and 15m, just like it was in the old-old days before  
incentive licensing.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Slow code, etc

2006-07-10 Thread Bill Coleman


On Jun 26, 2006, at 6:13 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I sort of like my CW drawl and probably won't change much in the  
next few

years.  But are many of you changing to keyboards?


During contests, I always let the computer generate the CW, even  
sometimes using the keyboard feature, although I'll occasionally  
reach for the paddles.


The computer can send faster and more accurately than I can.

Keyboards aren't a new phenomenon. I remember being active in a slow- 
speed traffic handling net in the late 70s and one of the net  
controls was a blind ham who would regularly do 40+ wpm with a  
keyboard. It was funny to listen to him close the net at 5 wpm, then  
crank it up to 40 wpm a minute later.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 condensation problem

2006-07-10 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
How about leaving a side panel (or two) off next year so air can pass
through?  (Another 'feature' of that modular cabinet!) 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
On Jul 5, 2006, at 11:22 AM, Fred (FL) wrote:

 I am puzzled by the reports of condensation
 accumulating inside a K2, in a marine environment?

No boats here! Just an incredibly humid Georgia June weekend during  
Field Day. I had the same problem last year and I completely  
disassembled the K2 and found drops of condensation.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL 

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RE: [Elecraft] XV144 down to 2W out

2006-07-10 Thread Don Wilhelm
Raj,

I can only guess at the reason for your 'unreliability'.  I have not
measured the K2 low power output stability at anything as low as 0.02 mW.

The one thing I know is that the XV144 should be linear (it needs to be to
support SSB), and that the K2 determines its power digitally, so there will
be discrete steps in the actual K2 power output.  I have not calculated the
step size with the K60XV, but by the time the output is amplified by the
transverter, the steps may be noticable, particlarly with low output
settings from the K2.

If you plan to always operate the XV144 at the lower power, then yes,
adjusting the input attenuator on the XV144 may be the better solution.  Try
it and see what happens - that is an analog solution and the higher power
output level from the K2 should mask the minor variation in the digitally
controlled steps from the K2.  Note that digital steps are usually +/- 1
step from the nominal setting - so if the step size is 0.01 mW, a setting of
0.02 mW may vary from 0.01 mW to 0.03 mW where using the same step size at
1.00 mW, the variation will be only from 0.99mW to 1.01 mW and the
percentage change is much smaller (1% variation as compared to 50% at the
lower power setting).  (My exact numbers may be incorrect, but the concept
is still valid.)

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 What is simplest way to turn down the max power out from a XV144 from 15
 to 2W?  I use a K2 and tried to turn down the power by reducing the
 drive from K2 from the nominal 1.0mw down to 0.02mw but this did not
 work reliably.  Should I be adjusting R22 on XV144, the input
 attenuation adjustment, instead?

 Thanks,
 Raj, N2RD



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[Elecraft] tks

2006-07-10 Thread Harry
thanks for helping me get on the elecraft archieves i just
purchased a K2 with all accessiores except DSP radio 
seems to be working well so far 

Harry [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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