[Elecraft] Back Again and the KX1

2006-10-26 Thread Paul Gates, KD3JF
Hi everybody. This AM I have enabled the Reflector. I had
my knee surgery on October 10 and am doing quite well. It
surely will be nice to have 2 good legs again. Maybe I can
do some back packing by next Spring.

I have my KX1 installed right by my electric Lazyboy chair
where I am spending most of my time these days. Anyone who
would like to have a sked let me know by using my email
address [EMAIL PROTECTED]  Besides the day time I am usually
awake between 1630z to 0730z I am located about 15 miles
south of Baltimore, MD so that will give you an idea for
propagation. The antenna is a Gap Challenger.

Excuse the band width.

Paul Gates, KD3JF




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[Elecraft] Looking for some foam.

2006-10-26 Thread Richard haendel
I would suggest visiting an upholstery shop.  They have foam for pillows and 
sofas in different densities. Pick what you like. For the amount you need, 
there may be some small pieces available at no charge. Just my $.02 worth. 

Rich W3ACO
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[Elecraft] Foam

2006-10-26 Thread J F
Scott,
Pelican sells the foam seperately, not cheap, but you
can get it. 

Might I also suggest look for someone who has just got
a new monitor/TV/computer/electronic test equipment,
ask for the pink or blue packing foam. These come in
sheets (you may be able to find a local packing house
that has it in stock) or strips. It's closed cell foam
(doesn't asorb water) and is easy to cut with a knife.
It's excellent packing material.

Hope this helps.

Julius
n2wn
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[Elecraft] OT-NASA soldering

2006-10-26 Thread Jeremiah McCarthy
Judging from a direct response, it seems that my statement about using minimum 
solder to save lift-off weight during the lunar lander program generated 
skepticism...At that time NASA estimated that they saved 450 pounds on the 
entire Saturn 5 launch vehicle by limiting the amount of solder used for a 
one-shot launch...NASA did not use Mil-Spec, they had their own spec...

Jerry, wa2dkg

Anything that is built for NASA and will fly will most likely have to be 
conformal coated...Leaving excess lead length might cause the ends to 
protrude out of the conformal coating, defeating the purpose of the 
coating...I was not aware of any min-max lead length protrusion in my 
dealings with NASAWe used minimum solder to save lift-off weight and we 
always trimmed flush...
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FW: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for some foam.

2006-10-26 Thread Solosko, Robert B (Bob)

Scott,

Here's yet another idea...

One of my other hobbies is making custom cases for stringed musical 
instruments. For the bottom and sides of the cases, I use closed-cell noodles 
used by kids (and adults) in swimming pools, etc. They're available in almost 
store that sells toys or swimming stuff for a few dollars for a 4 or 5 foot 
long one. I cut them to length and slice them with a box cutter (very easily), 
then use double sided tape to fasten them to a piece of file folder cut to the 
shape of the case bottom or side. I then cover the foam and board with a piece 
of cloth, also attached with double sided tape, and then glue the whole thing 
into the case. This is very cheap for a lot of foam and provides just the right 
density to protect the instrument. For the top of the case, I use a piece of 
soft foam I get from a fabric store to keep everything from moving. One of the 
projects on my list is to make a custom case for my K2, KAT100, key, mic, 
cables, etc., and I'll be using the noodle foam to keep eve!
 rything padded and in place.

Bob


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Spencer
Sent: Wednesday, October 25, 2006 1:26 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Looking for some foam.


This is a bit off of the normal topics but since there are a lot of portable 
operators on this list, I figure somebody may be able to help me out.

I have a good transport case for my KX-1 and accessories but I'm having a hard 
time finding some good foam to line the case with. I'd really like to find some 
of the pre-scored foam to make it easier to shape for the contents.

I've tried the local hobby shops but all they seem to carry is the low density 
foam. Not suitable for my needs.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

NN4W
Scott






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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Oct 27 - Nov 30, 2006

2006-10-26 Thread Ken Newman

N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
October 27 - November 30, 2006 
~

Zombie Shuffle (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
Oct 27, Local Sundown to Local Midnight (Any 4 hour period)
Rules: http://www.zianet.com/QRP/
~
EXtreme CW World-Wide Challenge (40 M CW)... QRP Category
Oct 28, z to Oct 29, 2359z
Rules:  http://www.alg.demon.co.uk/xcw/2006rules.htm
~
CQ WW DX Contest (SSB)  ... QRP Category
Oct 28, z to Oct 29, 2400z
Rules: http://www.cqww.com/
~
Ten-Ten QSO Party (CW) ... QRP Category
Oct 28, 0001z to Oct 29, 2359z
Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/calendar.html
~
HA-QRP Contest (CW - 80 Meters) *** QRP Contest***
Nov 1, z to Nov 7, 2400z
Rules: http://www.radiovilag.hu/haqrp2.htm
~
Ukrainian DX Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Nov 4, 1200z to Nov 5, 1200z
Rules: http://www.ucc.zp.ua/urdxc2006rules_eng.htm
~
ARRL Sweepstakes (CW) ... QRP Category 
Nov 4, 2100z to Nov 6, 0300z

Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~
High Speed Club Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Nov 5, 0900z to 1100z and 1500z to 1700z
Rules: http://www.dl3bzz.de/html/hscconte.html
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest***
EST: Nov 6, 9 PM - 11 PM
UTC: Nov 7, 0200z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~
80 METER FOXHUNT (Each Tuesday)
EST: Tue Nov 7, 9 PM to 10:29 PM
UTC: Wed Nov 8, 0200z to 0329z
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT (Each Thursday)
EST: Thurs Nov 9,  9 PM to 10:29 PM
UTC: Fri  Nov 10, 0200z to 0329z
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
WAE RTTY Contest (Digital)... 100W Category
Nov 11, z to Nov 12, 2359z
Rules: http://www.darc.de/referate/dx/xedcwr.htm
~
Japan International DX Contest (phone)... 100w category
Nov 11, 0700z to Nov 12, 1300z
Rules: http://jidx.org/jidxrule-e.html
~
OK/OM DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category!
Nov 11, 1200z to Nov 12, 1200z 
Rules: http://okomdx.crk.cz/

~
Kentucky QSO Party (CW/Ph) 
Nov 11, 1400z to Nov 12, 0600z

Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/months/nov.html
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! ***
EST: Nov 15, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Nov 16, 0130z to 0330z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
YO International PSK31 Contest (80 Meters) ... 50W max
Nov 17, 1600z to 2200z
Rules: http://hamat5.atw.hu/PSKrul2006en.html
~
LZ DX CONTEST (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Nov 18, 1200z to Nov 19, 1200z

Rules: http://www.qsl.net/lz1fw/contest/
~
ARRL Sweepstakes (Phone) ... QRP Category
Nov 18, 2100z to Nov 20, 0300z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~
HOT Party (CW) ... QRP Category
Nov 19, 1300z to 1500z (40 Meters)
Nov 19, 1500z to 1700z (80 Meters)
(HOMEBREW  OLDTIME - EQUIPMENT - PARTY) 
Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/

~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Nov 19, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Nov 20, 0200z 0400z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~
CQ World Wide DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category!
Nov 25, z to Nov 26, 2400z
Rules: http://www.cqww.com/
~
QRP BARBERSHOP QUARTET CONTEST (CW QRP)... QRP Contest!
Nov 29, 9 PM to 11 PM EST  
Rules: http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm

~
QRP ARCI Topband CW  SSB Sprint *** QRP CONTEST ***
Nov 30, z to 0600z 
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/

~

Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others 
for assistance in compiling this calendar. 


Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
we will post it and give it more publicity.
Anyone may use this N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.  

[Elecraft] CW keying circuit

2006-10-26 Thread Carter W. Craigie
I want to be able to do computer-generated CW on my K2, using software such as
DX4WIN and WriteLog. The circuit that works on my wife's Yaesu FT1000 MP Mark V
does not work on her Yaesu FT920, which makes me think it isn't going to work on
the K2, either, because both require a stereo plug. The circuit for the Mark V
addresses a mono plug.

Can someone send me, or point me to, a CW keying circuit for a COMM port that
will work with the K2?

I do not want to use a sound-card approach, such as the RigBlaster. 
73,
Carter
--
Carter Craigie N3AO
K2/100 s/n 678
K1 s/n 159
KX1 s/n 119
--
 



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Re: [Elecraft] CW keying circuit

2006-10-26 Thread Dan KB6NU
Some time ago, I built the opto-isolator circuit found on http:// 
www.qsl.net/k0bx/cwkeying.htm. Since it uses an opto-isolator, it  
should not only work with the K2, but isolate the rig from the  
computer as wel.


73!

Dan KB6NU
--
CW Geek and MI Affiliated Club Coordinator
Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com
LET'S GET MORE KIDS INTO HAM RADIO!


On Oct 26, 2006, at 10:50 AM, Carter W. Craigie wrote:

I want to be able to do computer-generated CW on my K2, using  
software such as
DX4WIN and WriteLog. The circuit that works on my wife's Yaesu  
FT1000 MP Mark V
does not work on her Yaesu FT920, which makes me think it isn't  
going to work on
the K2, either, because both require a stereo plug. The circuit for  
the Mark V

addresses a mono plug.

Can someone send me, or point me to, a CW keying circuit for a COMM  
port that

will work with the K2?

I do not want to use a sound-card approach, such as the RigBlaster.
73,
Carter
--
Carter Craigie N3AO
K2/100 s/n 678
K1 s/n 159
KX1 s/n 119

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[Elecraft] W1 Wattmeter Software Questions

2006-10-26 Thread vtnn43e
I was wondering if the W1 displays peak power hold via the software? Also, what 
other info does the software display? 
 
73
Zack 
N8FNR
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[Elecraft] Re: Back Again and the KX1

2006-10-26 Thread wayne burdick

Hi Paul,


Hi everybody. This AM I have enabled the Reflector. I had
my knee surgery on October 10 and am doing quite well


Great to hear.


I have my KX1 installed right by my electric Lazyboy chair
where I am spending most of my time these days.


Please have someone take a photo of your new operating position! :)  
I'll add it to my gallery of ergonomically-challenging situations that 
the KX1 can handle.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] CW keying circuit

2006-10-26 Thread Larry Phipps
If you happen to use a program that supports the internal keyer in the 
K2, like TRX-Manager, you will get better keying. It eliminates CPU 
timing issues.


Larry N8LP



Carter W. Craigie wrote:

I want to be able to do computer-generated CW on my K2, using software such as
DX4WIN and WriteLog. The circuit that works on my wife's Yaesu FT1000 MP Mark V
does not work on her Yaesu FT920, which makes me think it isn't going to work on
the K2, either, because both require a stereo plug. The circuit for the Mark V
addresses a mono plug.

Can someone send me, or point me to, a CW keying circuit for a COMM port that
will work with the K2?

I do not want to use a sound-card approach, such as the RigBlaster. 
73,

Carter
--
Carter Craigie N3AO
K2/100 s/n 678
K1 s/n 159
KX1 s/n 119
--
 




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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft K2 TR adapter

2006-10-26 Thread Tom Hammond

Lars Edwards, wrote regarding the K2 T-R Relay Driver Adapter PC Board:

Do you by any chance have a board and parts kit available and if so 
what is the cost inc. shipping ?


Using appropriate components, this device should key just about any 
T-R line presented by an external RF amplifier which must key +120VDC 
or less at no more than 3A. This includes virtually all current 
production HF amps, including the Heathkit SB220/SB-221 series of 
amps.. though the Heath amps are NOT QSK-capable unless they have 
been modified.


So far, I've only offered the PC board itself.. for $6 ppd to your mailbox.

Up to now, I've made the boards, in small quantities, in my kitchen, 
using a photographic contact exposure technique which yields 
excellent quality boards, BUT which were hand drilled. I had no way I 
could (to my satisfaction) tin plate the copper side of the board.


Just yesterday, I sent an order to FAR Circuits, to have them make a 
supply of PC boards which would be machine-drilled AND which will be 
solder coated as well. I should have these new PC boards within 2 weeks.


In the past, because orders have been slow, and generally few, I've 
supplied builders with a parts listing and component part numbers 
from Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com). However, I'm planning on 
'kitting' the entire kit of parts, so builders will be able to order 
a complete kit from me.


At this point, there are two models of the T-R driver circuit which 
are available, one which uses two (2) 2N7000 MOSFET transistors, and 
which is good to drive relays up to about 50VDC and around 200mA of 
current, and a model which uses one 2N7000 for the input, but a 
heavy-duty HEXFET (possibly an IRF610B) which will drive loads up to 
about 200VDC and 3A current. ONLY THE HEAVY-DUTY driver will be 
offered as a kit.


The complete kit would run about $16 each, postpaid to any US 
destination... $1 (US) more to a DX location.


I'll still offer the bare PC boards for $6 ppd ($7 US to DX).

I should have complete kits available in 2-3 weeks, bare PC board 
(hopefully) within 2 weeks.


If you wish to order a kit, please remit to:

Tom Hammond
5417 Scruggs Stn Rd
Lohman MO  65053


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Re: [Elecraft] OT-NASA soldering

2006-10-26 Thread Bob Nielsen
Yes.  In the early days of NASA, launch weights were a major  
problem.  I worked on the Syncom satellites at Hughes in the early  
1960s and we even used aluminum coax connectors which could reliably  
be connected only a few times (what a relief it was was when SMA  
became available).  Our electronics didn't use circuit boards, but  
the components were soldered together supported by their leads and  
foamed in place inside small chassis of thin gold-plated aluminum.


Bob, N7XY

On Oct 26, 2006, at 7:59 AM, Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:

Judging from a direct response, it seems that my statement about  
using minimum solder to save lift-off weight during the lunar  
lander program generated skepticism...At that time NASA estimated  
that they saved 450 pounds on the entire Saturn 5 launch vehicle by  
limiting the amount of solder used for a one-shot launch...NASA  
did not use Mil-Spec, they had their own spec...


Jerry, wa2dkg

Anything that is built for NASA and will fly will most likely  
have to be conformal coated...Leaving excess lead length might  
cause the ends to protrude out of the conformal coating,  
defeating the purpose of the coating...I was not aware of any min- 
max lead length protrusion in my dealings with NASAWe used  
minimum solder to save lift-off weight and we always trimmed  
flush...

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Re: [Elecraft] CW keying circuit

2006-10-26 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Carter:


I want to be able to do computer-generated CW on my K2, using software such as
DX4WIN and WriteLog. The circuit that works on my wife's Yaesu 
FT1000 MP Mark V does not work on her Yaesu FT920, which makes me 
think it isn't going to work on the K2, either, because both require 
a stereo plug. The circuit for the Mark V addresses a mono plug.


Can someone send me, or point me to, a CW keying circuit for a COMM port that
will work with the K2?

I do not want to use a sound-card approach, such as the RigBlaster.


Consider:  http://www.n0ss.net/lpt_keying_adapter.pdf

PC boards are $6 ppd to your mailbox.

I've used this with ALL of my rigs, including several K2s, for the 
past 15 years with no problems.


73,

Tom   N0SS

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[Elecraft] spiderbeam 18m mast

2006-10-26 Thread g0wfhchris
hi all i just got my new 18m/ 60m portable mast from spiderbeam
wow what a nice mast i cant wait to get out portable on 80/160m
with my k2 ive been stuck at 33ft with a dk9sq mast for to long
wish it would stop raining here 
73 chris g0wfh k2 sno 4930
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[Elecraft] .component soldering - comment

2006-10-26 Thread Chuck
Take one of those pink erasers split one end with razor
blade [sharp knife] drag leads of part through it helps
clean up  helps solder flow 
73
Chuck  AA8VS


Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
__
When I built my K2 spring 06 - and soldered along, day
and night after night.  I always made sure to have
my soldering tip set a high enough temperature, and
tried as best I could to get very good solder flow
with my Kester solder - both onto the component lead,
and the PCB's pad and hole.  

The hole and Elecraft's 2-sided PCB's always puzzled
me a bit - as I was never sure if there were pads,
plated-thru hole, and lower pads - every time.  In
other words when I soldered a component on the top
side of the RF Board - and got a great solder flow -
was I supposed to look to see if there was a pad
and great flow on the bottom side too?

OR DOES THE PLATED-THRU HOLE, TAKE CARE OF THAT?

Apparently I must have figured right - none of my
solder connections ever gave any trouble, and K2
checked out right, after every section build!
Probably lucky.

Solder Flow - with lead based solder, and its tin
content, etc. - reminds me of my first career in the
newspaper field.  I was one of those rare birds who
fixed linotype hot-metal typecasting machines for 10
years.  In those days there were magic crayon-like
sticks we threw into the metal pot, and daily skimming
of the dross that built up on the top layer of the
pot's liquid lead/tin/antimony metal mixture.
Temperature was critical then, to ensure razor sharp
newspaper type letters on the top of each ejected
line of type that came out of those black beauty
machines.  I think I could still fix one of them
in my sleep.  Our daily newspaper in Buffalo, had
49 machines - for 5 editions a day.  By the by,
linotype metal supposedly the best for casting
pistol bullets.  Extra hard.

Kept a guy out of trouble .

Fred
FL



__
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Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
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.

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft K2 TR adapter

2006-10-26 Thread Bill Allen
The kit that Tom has provided works very well.  I used one to do the TR 
switching from my K2 to a Tokyo-HyPower HL200BDX amp.   I have used it on 
another amp as well.

73,
Bill Allen  WA5PB

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Oct 26, 2006 11:12 AM
To: Lars Edwards [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft K2 TR adapter

Lars Edwards, wrote regarding the K2 T-R Relay Driver Adapter PC Board:

Do you by any chance have a board and parts kit available and if so 
what is the cost inc. shipping ?

Using appropriate components, this device should key just about any 
T-R line presented by an external RF amplifier which must key +120VDC 
or less at no more than 3A. This includes virtually all current 
production HF amps, including the Heathkit SB220/SB-221 series of 
amps.. though the Heath amps are NOT QSK-capable unless they have 
been modified.

So far, I've only offered the PC board itself.. for $6 ppd to your mailbox.

Up to now, I've made the boards, in small quantities, in my kitchen, 
using a photographic contact exposure technique which yields 
excellent quality boards, BUT which were hand drilled. I had no way I 
could (to my satisfaction) tin plate the copper side of the board.

Just yesterday, I sent an order to FAR Circuits, to have them make a 
supply of PC boards which would be machine-drilled AND which will be 
solder coated as well. I should have these new PC boards within 2 weeks.

In the past, because orders have been slow, and generally few, I've 
supplied builders with a parts listing and component part numbers 
from Mouser Electronics (www.mouser.com). However, I'm planning on 
'kitting' the entire kit of parts, so builders will be able to order 
a complete kit from me.

At this point, there are two models of the T-R driver circuit which 
are available, one which uses two (2) 2N7000 MOSFET transistors, and 
which is good to drive relays up to about 50VDC and around 200mA of 
current, and a model which uses one 2N7000 for the input, but a 
heavy-duty HEXFET (possibly an IRF610B) which will drive loads up to 
about 200VDC and 3A current. ONLY THE HEAVY-DUTY driver will be 
offered as a kit.

The complete kit would run about $16 each, postpaid to any US 
destination... $1 (US) more to a DX location.

I'll still offer the bare PC boards for $6 ppd ($7 US to DX).

I should have complete kits available in 2-3 weeks, bare PC board 
(hopefully) within 2 weeks.

If you wish to order a kit, please remit to:

Tom Hammond
5417 Scruggs Stn Rd
Lohman MO  65053


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[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: ARES/RACES TelPac Equipment

2006-10-26 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

I would like to put a WL2K TelPac Node on the air in Berks County, PA.
I don't believe one is on the air to date. If anyone has any of the
following pieces of gear they would like to sell, email me.

Kantronics KPC-3+
Diamond X50A 2m/440 Antenna
12V supply 20A

73,
Ed,WA3WSJ



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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for some foam.

2006-10-26 Thread Stuart Rohre
Besides upholstery shops, look at shops selling bulk cloth and sewing 
supplies.  Also, the various stores that spring up in larger towns selling 
shipping supplies.

Down here places like U Haul not only rent trucks and trailers, but sell 
packing supplies and padding.

The chain Container Stores may carry bulk foam.

Stuart
K5KVH 


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[Elecraft] Attic Antenna

2006-10-26 Thread Larry
I live in a restricted community and am thinking about putting a 20 
meter dipole in the attic. I know most of the issues with doing this but 
I don't know the effect the roofing material will have on my signal. The 
roof is 1/2 in thick cement tiles. Has anyone had experience with this 
setup?


Thanks,

Larry, KB5DXY
K1 #2269
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[Elecraft] Plexiglas case for K2

2006-10-26 Thread Doug Shields
Hello all,
I wanted to show off my K2 at the recent Melbourne hamfest.  But, I
didn't want a lot of people poking around inside my radio.  So I decided to
make some transparent plastic cover panels for the radio.  It took about 10
hours to make everything fit.  Anyone that is good with plastics could do it
much faster but I was learning.
I think it turned out really good.  I got a lot of comments about it at
the hamfest.  If you want to show off your workmanship you might give it a
try.  I haven't tried operating the rig with the plastic covers on but I am
sure it would be shooting RF out everywhere.
   The links below will take you to some photos of the radio.

Doug  W4DAS
K2 #5000

http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-1.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-2.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-3.jpg


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RE: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna

2006-10-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I live in a restricted community and am thinking about putting a 20 
meter dipole in the attic. I know most of the issues with doing this but 
I don't know the effect the roofing material will have on my signal. The 
roof is 1/2 in thick cement tiles. Has anyone had experience with this 
setup?

Thanks,

Larry, KB5DXY
K1 #2269

---

Yep! Not all tiles are equal, so you may be better off. I moved several
times about 15 years ago, always living in an apartment. I managed to get a
top (second) floor apartment in each case and installed a doublet in the
attic in each case. It was hung just under the rafters. 

In one apartment I noticed that I didn't get out very well, compared to my
previous QTH, but my antenna arrangement was very similar! On air testing is
just about useless to determine how well an antenna is working so I didn't
panic over it. But, over several months a suspicion grew. 

One day I noticed walk near my building a piece of roofing tile that had
apparently dropped there while some repairs were being done. Curious, I took
it indoors. It was a hot summer day and the tile piece was quite dry. I put
it in my microwave oven (with a glass of water to avoid running it 'empty')
let it cook for a minute or two. 

The roof tile was very hot! That's a sure sign it's pretty opaque to RF. Of
course, it's probably more opaque at microwave frequencies than at HF, but
it's still going to be lossy. If you can get a piece of tile, do the test
for yourself. You may be a lot better off than  I was. 

I did a little research and found that those tile mixes often have a lot of
stuff not normally found in concrete and that the formulas vary
substantially from one supplier to another. That's about all I could dig up
on the subject. Let me say that I made a LOT of contacts from under those
tiles, using QRP on 40 and 20 meters, including substantial DX. That's the
problem with on-air testing. A punk poor antenna can sound *great* when the
band conditions are right. So if that's what you have to do to get on the
air, go for it. 

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Plexiglas case for K2

2006-10-26 Thread Jean-François Ménard
Excellent idea Doug if you want to show to people the work labor you did 
 But I think it will not be a good idea to use it for TX


Doug Shields a écrit :

Hello all,
I wanted to show off my K2 at the recent Melbourne hamfest.  But, I
didn't want a lot of people poking around inside my radio.  So I decided to
make some transparent plastic cover panels for the radio.  It took about 10
hours to make everything fit.  Anyone that is good with plastics could do it
much faster but I was learning.
I think it turned out really good.  I got a lot of comments about it at
the hamfest.  If you want to show off your workmanship you might give it a
try.  I haven't tried operating the rig with the plastic covers on but I am
sure it would be shooting RF out everywhere.
   The links below will take you to some photos of the radio.

Doug  W4DAS
K2 #5000

http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-1.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-2.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-3.jpg


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[Elecraft] Signal generator question

2006-10-26 Thread Jean-François Ménard

Hi,

I would like to learn and explore more «signal tracing» procedure and 
technique. I actually have a Fluke 196C. But I don't have a signal 
generator.


A friend of mine have his signal generator for sale. The model is an 
Instek GFG-8216A. I would like to know if the device will be good for 
signal tracing or the specification of this device is not enough for 
this purpose??? I know that I could build the one in the K2 building 
manual or at least use the technique «Cheap'n Dirty» from N0SS... but 
that's not my point ;-)


The specification can be viewed at 
http://www.instek.com/pdf/Generator/GFG-8216A8215A.pdf


Thanks for all your advice.

Best 73

J-F VA2VYZ

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Re: [Elecraft] Plexiglas case for K2

2006-10-26 Thread Jean-François Ménard
Sorry I forgot to mention... You did a beautiful job with your case 
 :-)


Doug Shields a écrit :

Hello all,
I wanted to show off my K2 at the recent Melbourne hamfest.  But, I
didn't want a lot of people poking around inside my radio.  So I decided to
make some transparent plastic cover panels for the radio.  It took about 10
hours to make everything fit.  Anyone that is good with plastics could do it
much faster but I was learning.
I think it turned out really good.  I got a lot of comments about it at
the hamfest.  If you want to show off your workmanship you might give it a
try.  I haven't tried operating the rig with the plastic covers on but I am
sure it would be shooting RF out everywhere.
   The links below will take you to some photos of the radio.

Doug  W4DAS
K2 #5000

http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-1.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-2.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-3.jpg


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Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna

2006-10-26 Thread Rick Dettinger




 I live in a restricted community and am thinking about putting a 20
 meter dipole in the attic. I know most of the issues with doing this but
 I don't know the effect the roofing material will have on my signal. The
 roof is 1/2 in thick cement tiles. Has anyone had experience with this
 setup?

 Thanks,

 Larry, KB5DXY
 K1 #2269
=
The attenuation of any materal is a function of its thickness, measured in
wavelengths, as well as its electrical  properties.  This means that for a
given roof material, you will have less signal attenuation at 160 M then at
10 M.  This should be true for trees, rain or snow also.  This is why the US
Navy uses extreme  low frequencies to communicate with subs under water.
Like in the audio range, except its still radio.
I tried a 20 M. dipole in my wood framed attic before I hade an antenna
tuner.  The SWR was way high, like 4:1.  I think this was due to the close
proximity of electrical wires.  The antenna would probably have worked fine
with a tuner.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW

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Re: [Elecraft] Plexiglas case for K2

2006-10-26 Thread Joe-aa4nn

Excellent job, Doug.  Fantastic detail with the plexiglass.
What's to hurt transmitting with it as QRP.  Go for it.
de Joe, aa4nn

-


Hello all,
   I wanted to show off my K2 at the recent Melbourne hamfest.  But, I
didn't want a lot of people poking around inside my radio.  So I decided 
to
make some transparent plastic cover panels for the radio.  It took about 
10
hours to make everything fit.  Anyone that is good with plastics could do 
it

much faster but I was learning.
   I think it turned out really good.  I got a lot of comments about it at
the hamfest.  If you want to show off your workmanship you might give it a
try.  I haven't tried operating the rig with the plastic covers on but I 
am

sure it would be shooting RF out everywhere.
  The links below will take you to some photos of the radio.

Doug  W4DAS
K2 #5000

http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-1.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-2.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-3.jpg


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RE: [Elecraft] Plexiglas case for K2

2006-10-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Beautiful job! I'd be very surprised if there were any RFI issues, at least
a far as radiating RF, and probably not in terms of picking up unwanted RF.
The toroids are self-shielding and the PCB construction keeps everything
close and the leads (PCB traces) carrying RF short. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Hello all,
I wanted to show off my K2 at the recent Melbourne hamfest.  But, I
didn't want a lot of people poking around inside my radio.  So I decided to
make some transparent plastic cover panels for the radio.  It took about 10
hours to make everything fit.  Anyone that is good with plastics could do it
much faster but I was learning.
I think it turned out really good.  I got a lot of comments about it at
the hamfest.  If you want to show off your workmanship you might give it a
try.  I haven't tried operating the rig with the plastic covers on but I am
sure it would be shooting RF out everywhere.
   The links below will take you to some photos of the radio.

Doug  W4DAS
K2 #5000

http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-1.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-2.jpg
http://www.heathkit.info/K2_5000-3.jpg


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Re: [Elecraft] Attic Antenna

2006-10-26 Thread Larry
Thanks for all of the great feedback. I am going to research some of the 
antenna suggestions that I have received. I feel a lot more confident in 
trying an antenna in the attic now.


I am currently building my K1. I have finished the receiver and am 
starting the transmitter section. I will also be adding a KAT1. I will 
report back with results when I get the whole thing working.


Larry, KB5DXY
K1 #2269 (in progress)
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Re: [Elecraft] CW keying circuit

2006-10-26 Thread Mark Schreiner

Carter W. Craigie wrote:

Can someone send me, or point me to, a CW keying circuit for a COMM port that
will work with the K2?
  



Hi Carter,

I went with the simple Serial Port circuit shown at the following website:

taggart.glg.msu.edu/wb8dqt/cwpage.htm

Actually, I may have gotten it from some other website, but without 
opening the DB9 shell and inspecting, I'm pretty sure that was the 
equivalent circuit.  It was easily found by doing a Google search (like 
everything in life).  The circuit is built right inside of the DB9 
connector shell and can go to a mono plug directly into the back of the 
K2.  No external voltage is required.  I've used it connected directly 
to the back of a PC (desktop and laptop) as well as using it with a USB 
to Serial converter dongle.  I think the keying is not quite perfect, 
though.  I have used this with the KA3JWE PA QSO Party logging program 
as well as generally using it with the N1MM Contest Logging software.  I 
set the K2 for hand key operation (MENU:  InP:  HAnd), otherwise you get 
really interesting (bad) results. 

I actually use a stereo plug but only connect the tip and shield and do 
not connect the ring.  Also, to keep the Bencher paddles handy for when 
I want to send something manually rather than using the memories in the 
logging program (or K2 memories) or the keyboard (Alt-K for keyboard 
operation on the KA3JWE software, I think it is CTRL-K with N1MM), I 
have the paddles going into an old MFJ memory keyer which I can easily 
set the speed as needed and the output of that goes into a Y-adapter 
cable.  So, actually, I have the CW Serial interface cable and the 
output of the MFJ keyer going into the two Y-cable inputs and the single 
end going into the back of the K2 key input.  This works well for me. 

I mentioned that the Serial keying isn't perfect.  It has been mentioned 
that this has to do with timing issues, even on very fast compukers.  I 
didn't notice any extra degradation using the USB to Serial interface 
and figured it would be less work to use it on CW keying than for rig 
communication, which I don't remember if I've tried yet.  This is handy 
for use with laptop compukers that only have one serial port but 
generally have at least one USB port (or you can get more ports with 
additional PCMCIA card or a USB Hub). 

I think I will build a Parallel port CW keying interface as well, which 
can be found on the web by doing a Google search.  As I understand the 
timing is a bit better on the P-Port than the S-Port.  The only reason I 
haven't done so yet is that the KA3JWE software didn't support the 
P-Port for keying (as I recall), however I'm likely to not be using 
KA3JWE software next year and following.  I just checked and found that 
the N1MM Logger does support LPT 1 - 3, so I'll definitely throw a 
circuit together to try that as well before the next contest. 

Anyone have success using USB-Serial adapter cable (with the correct 
cable as built with the KIO2, I guess a pseudo-serial cable for lack of 
a better name) for communications between the K2  computer for getting 
frequency and mode info?  This may have been a recent post thread, so 
please, I didn't mean to open a can of worms by asking this, just a 
simple question.  I am currently using the Belkin adapter (P/N P43293-B 
or F5U409-CU which is by the barcode on the original package).  
Actually, this reminds me of another issue altogether that I'm going to 
do in a separate post.


73,

Mark, NK8Q
K2 #4786

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[Elecraft] Help with my K2

2006-10-26 Thread Tom Nickisch
Good evening all,  
  Well I started building my K2 the other day and I did the first power up test 
a little while ago.  When I turned it on the relays reset and No Smoke well 
that's a good sign. but the LCD display is very hard to read. You have to look 
at it from just the angle to see.  When you do it is faint.  Although it 
appears that everything else is OK. It looks like the contrast is way off.  
   
  Dose anybody have any suggestions??
   
  73'
  de Tom W8AMZ
   
   
   
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Re: [Elecraft] CW keying circuit

2006-10-26 Thread Paul

Carter,
What do you think of this - one transistor couple of diodes and 
resistors which all fit in the computer serial port plug. So I plug 
the serial port plug into the computer Com port and the other end is 
a straight key (non-stereo) phone plug. Actually that's not 
technically true. The Argo V requires a stereo plug  but you just use 
the shaft and tip, leaving the ring connection empty. You can wire 
the rig end as required.


Here is the Link: http://www.qsl.net/wm2u/cw.html
Scroll about half way down and you'll see the circuit. I've seen some 
that use even less parts - one transistor, a diode and resistor. But 
this one works for me. I used the larger side serial plug housing 
(for 9 pin) available at Radio shack and everything fit inside. 
There is a Ham who also makes these switch commercially in that he 
charges about $30.00 each. His are finished a little nicer and have a 
phone jack at the plug. So you plug a wire into it and into your rig. 
If you are interested I can look up his link. But you can do this 
yourself in about 15 minutes and a few dollars in parts.


Good luck and 73,
Paul
PS: The companion program, CWGET, which translates audio cw into text 
- and is not free - is also pretty good. I haven't surveyed them all 
but it was the best of 3 or 4 I've seen.


Note that as a bonus, the CWType program is free.
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[Elecraft] Serial Comm pulsing noise issue on 40m

2006-10-26 Thread Mark Schreiner
I've noticed a fairly weak noise on 40m when using N1MM Contest Logging 
program.  I have the correctly built pseudo-serial cable from the back 
of either a laptop or a desktop compuker to the KIO2 port on the back of 
the K2.  I've only noticed this noise when using the N1MM program, 
although I should try it on some others as well.  I have used the KA3JWE 
PA QSO Party software as well but didn't notice the same noise with 
that.  The noise is a pulse about once per second and is not very strong 
and spaced about every 5 kHz, (e.g. 7030, 7035, 7040, etc).  It is most 
noticable during quiet band conditions.  I hear it louder on ANT1 
which is actually connected to my outdoor antenna but I also hear it 
much fainter on ANT2 which is not connected to anything.  If I 
disconnect the cable from the back of the K2 the pulsing goes away.  If 
I close the N1MM program the noise goes away. 

I just tried the same with Win-EQF and I wasn't able to find any similar 
issues (on 40m, didn't check other bands).  Also just tried the KA3JWE 
PA QSO Party logging program and again didn't hear the same sort of N1MM 
related pulsing sound.  Not sure how many other logging programs I 
should try to download to try. 

Oh, I tried wrapping the pseudo-serial cable around a ferrite choke, 
three turns, sorry I don't know much specifics about the ferrite 
material, probably one of those from Radio Slack, it is in a white 
plastic snap together housing, about 1 square with a hole that is okay 
for maybe RG8 coax at most.  That had no affect on the pulsing noise.  
Wrapped the wire around the choke near the rig (about 4 from the 
connector). 

Has anyone else experienced this?  Anyone come up with a solution or 
have any other ideas for me to try? 


Thanks!

Mark, NK8Q

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[Elecraft] N1MM Contest Logger VFO B issue

2006-10-26 Thread Mark Schreiner
I was wondering if anyone else out there is using their K2 with a 
pseudo-serial cable to their compuker to get band/mode info for contest 
logging using N1MM logger.  I've noticed that it records VFO A info okay 
but if I switch to VFO B it continues to record VFO A info into the log 
and not display VFO B info.  So, when contesting, I make sure to start 
each band on VFO A and make an effort to not switch to VFO B while using 
N1MM logging software.  In the past I didn't do this, the log continued 
to record frequency  mode info from VFO A, and it screwed up the log.  
It wasn't very easy to go in and edit the log with frequencies and mode 
info, if I could figure out which lines needed updating, and then it 
still didn't pick up the new multipliers correctly, which was another 
exercise to get correct. 

As a sanity check I just checked the WIN-EQF program and it seems to 
display both VFO frequencies simultaneously and indicated the active 
VFO, as well as correctly showing info when I switch to VFO B.  So, I 
think the rig  serial comm is okay otherwise. 

I've filed a bug report with N1MM Contest Logger on this issue as well 
as the previous post I just did on the serial port pulsing noise on 
40m.  I've gotten emails back from Pete, N4ZR, who is providing 
technical assistance on the N1MM program bug reports.  He's suggested 
that I post here to see if anyone else has experienced this as well or 
if it functions okay on your situations.


Comments?

Mark, NK8Q 
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[Elecraft] Attic Antenna

2006-10-26 Thread Craig D. Smith
Larry .

 

I have experience with a similar situation.  I'm also in a HOA restricted
development.  I put up an antenna in the attic here when I first started
operating from this QTH.  Basically a 17 meter doublet with 300 ohm
ladderline feeder that I can load on all bands from 10 to 40 with the
internal tuner in my K2 and an Elecraft balun.  My shingles are the more
normal asphalt type, but the exterior sheathing of the house has an aluminum
coating on one side which no doubt attenuates the RF some.  And of course
the antenna picks up more powerline noise and noise from household
electronics than would an outside antenna.

 

I've made a few hundred contacts on it on 40, 30, 20 and 17 using the 10
watts CW from my K2.  Haven't really tried on 15, 12 and 10 due to the
current sunspot situation.  So it will work.

 

That said, this year I got a Buddipole and set it up when I operate on a
temporary basis on the patio.  I most normally use it in a vertical
arrangement with a single counterpoise wire and an extra length shock-cord
whip assembly.  This will run circles around the attic dipole, especially
for DX.  At least 2 S units better.  And it is fairly low profile, so that
you might be able to get away with it as far as your neighbors are
concerned.  Within 10 minutes yesterday I worked the XF4DL DXpedition on 20
and 17 with the Buddipole and 10W from Colorado.  The day before I worked
them on 40.  The attic dipole has been effective mostly for stateside
contacts.

 

Another antenna I have that could be a possibility for you is a set of
base-fed verticals running up one side of the house.  You can feed them all
with one feedline.  The proximity of the house and the other radiators will
detune them, but a couple of hours with an antenna analyzer will sort
everything out.  I have the 40 and 80 meter elements running over the
rooftop in an inverted L arrangement.  By inserting some base loading, I can
use the 80 meter element on 160.  All this is VERY stealth - use the AWG 26
stealth black insulated copperweld wire and paint it to match your house.
Lay a few radials out on the ground and around your foundation.  The
performance of this arrangement here is about midway between the attic
dipole and the outside Buddipole Vertical.

 

The key is to be open-minded and experiment - you will find something that
works.  The attic dipole is a good place to begin and will always be a good
secondary antenna even if you find something you like better later on.

 

 

73

  . Craig AC0DS

 

 

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