Re: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem

2006-11-15 Thread David C Dawson
Double-checking DC voltage measurements on 3 transistors.

Item Measured  Chart
Q18
---
G:   0.00  -1.0 !!
S:   1.97 **2to3
D:   7.97   6.3 !

Q17
---
G:   2.16 * 2.2
S:   0.00   0.0
D:   1.97 **2to3

Q16
---
E:   0.00  0.0
B:   0.55  0.6
C:   2.16 *2.2
-- 
David Dawson

The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men
of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding.
-- Justice Louis D. Brandeis

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[Elecraft] Re: K2 Modifications

2006-11-15 Thread zl1aih
Hi Scott,
I have built two K2s, #767 and #3725.
The only problems I experienced were my 
own fault.
They were very quickly solved on this 
reflector by very experienced folk like Don 
W3FPR, Tom N0SS and many others who 
contribute to this list.

I'm the only one (so far) that turned TWO 
pages of the manual over at once, thus 
missing some very important steps. G

The K2 has evolved since #767 but most 
importantly both of my transceivers are 
right up there with latest serial numbers, in 
that I can update via the Elecraft list.   
They have the KI02 interface, 160m 
separate Rx antenna options, KAF2 audio 
filters and the N0SS amp keying circuit. 

My shack is presently the base for the 
ZM1A CW serious contest station.   We 
have two suites of antennas for 80, 40, 
20, 15 and 10 metres (quads and 
verticals) located 300' apart.

Of a selection of FT-1000xxx (with all the 
latest filters), Icom 7xxx, etc. transceivers, 
only the IC-780 and K2 ( plus amps) 
demonstrate no interstation interference at 
the 500w level.   

From the two most experienced CW 
contest ops in our group (ZL3CW and 
ZL1GO), the only complaint has been that 
the K2 moves when you push the 
buttons.   Since then, I have secured the 
bail to the bench.G

Scott, you can build your K2 with 
confidence knowing that you have support 
from this reflector no matter what 
problems you might encounter.
You will have a transceiver that is right up 
there with the best.

73, Ken ZL1AIH (ZM1A team in CW 
contests) 








 

 
 I ordered my K2 before I joined this 
forum, and now that I did, I am
 thinking maybe I shouldn't have ordered 
it. It hasn't been delivered
 yet.
 Is everyone having trouble with them as 
it sounds on this froum?  Why
 is it necessary for all the modifications 
that are being done to them?
 
 What's all this about completely 
removing RFC10 from the KPA100? Did
 Elecraft do a bad job of designing this 
thing?
 
 I just ordered the basic unit plus the 
noise blanker, and was
 planning on adding the kpa100, and the 
KSB2 ssb unit later. I had
 the understanding that these two 
options were plug in boards, but
 it sounds like a rebuild to add anything. I 
have always hesitated to
 take components out of a circuit board 
because there is a good chance
 that damage to the board might occur.
 
 Will a new kit that I just ordered four 
days ago need modifications,
 and if so, how will I know what 
modifications I will need to do?
 
 Would someone please tell me why I 
shouldn't put this thing up for
 sale on Ebay in the unopened box?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 headphone audio for sound card PSK31?

2006-11-15 Thread Julian, G4ILO
You can take the audio output from the external speaker socket at the back 
of the rig.
You can feed the audio into the more sensitive mic input of the sound card.
You can do one of the mods that provides a volume-independent audio output. 
I take mine from the KAF2 board, but if you don't have a KAF2 there are 
other options.
--
Julian, G4ILO K2 #392
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com

Cathy James [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

What can I do to increase the audio output level of the K2 for sound card 
purposes?


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[Elecraft] Re: Hakko 808 tips

2006-11-15 Thread John Reiser
Many thanks to all who responded to my question about a finer tip for the Hakko 
808 than comes with it.  The consensus recommendation was for the A1394 tip.  I 
will be ordering one today.

The members of this Elecraft list are the greatest!

73,

John, W2GW
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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?

2006-11-15 Thread Jack Smith

Doug:

If you send me the photo, I'll put it up in the Construction area of 
www.cliftonlaboratories.com as it might be of interest to Z90 builders 
as well.


Jack


Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 wrote:

I've found the 1394 to be useful, too.

Do we have a photos area?  I could put up a picture of the base I
constructed which is just a small chassis with the stock Hakko holder
screwed to it, a lighted AC switched socket so I don't have to
actually unplug the thing, and small screws up through the chassis to
act as posts to store the extra tips.  It makes the 808 even more
convenient.

73, doug

   Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 21:21:43 -0700
   From: Doug Person [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   John,

   There are finer tips for the Hakko 808.  The A1003 tip is much smaller 
   (about half the diameter) than the standard one supplied.I have 
   rarely had to pull out the role of Chem-wick to get a component out - 
   but it happens occasionally.


   http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko808.html#nozzles

   73, Doug -- K0DXV

   John Reiser wrote:
Hi,
   
I've noticed that lots of folks on this list praise highly the Hakko 808 
desoldering tool.  My question is: which tip do you all use?
   
I own a Hakko 808, and find it too clumsy with the tip that comes with it to be 
much use for Elecraft and other kit boards.  For example, I believe it would be 
completely useless for doing the 80-30 mod to the KX1.  I have tried the tool, and 
don't like it.  I hardly ever use it anymore.  I have come to much prefer 1/10 
Chem-wick for any desoldering that I have had to do.
   
It occurs to me that maybe with a longer or thinner tip the Hakko might 
live up to its reputation.  But which one, and where does one acquire it?
   
Thanks and 73,
   
John, W2GW
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 headphone audio for sound card PSK31?

2006-11-15 Thread Jack Smith

Cathy:

A trick I've used in the past with RTTY demods is to drive the demod 
audio input (or sound card) via a step-up audio transformer.


In the days of tube-type demods, I would connect a tube-type audio 
output transformer backwards across the receiver speaker output, but 
that would produce too much voltage for a sound card. However, a 
transistor audio output transformer should be about right, something in 
the 8 ohm : 200 ohm range.


Of course, you could do the same type of voltage amplification with an 
op amp, but a transformer works well for this application.


Or, you could use the microphone audio input instead of the line input. 
Plenty more gain there, and most computers have an auxiliary +20 dB gain 
switch.


Jack K8ZOA

Cathy James wrote:


I ran some tests this evening with my K2 and my computer sound card 
and HamScope software.  80 meters was not great, but it was open and 
there were a number of QSOs going on.


The K2 was able to pick up signals and decode them quite well, and the 
narrow filters really help block QRM.  (My RTTY filter bandpasses are 
all over the place, though; I don't think I ever finished setting them 
up after getting Spectrogram going.  Have to revisit that!)


However, the audio drive from the K2 is much less than from the 
DX-70TH that I use as my primary digital mode rig.  Although the 
signals decoded well, the traces on the waterfall barely showed even 
at fairly high soundcard record volume settings.  With the DX-70TH 
plugged into the sound card instead, the same signals were brilliant 
yellow and easily found by eye.


What can I do to increase the audio output level of the K2 for sound 
card purposes?


Cathy
N5WVR

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RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Doug,

Well, I just checked and they do not list it on their website.  I would give
them a phone call to see if they still carry it.  You will find pleasant
folks at the other end of the phone line.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Don - I wasn't able to find the A1394 tip at your suggested link.  I
 even used their Quick Search with no joy.  I think I could use one of
 those tips, too.

 73, Doug -- K0DXV

 Don Wilhelm wrote:

  The Hakko A1394 extra long 1.0mm nozzle does a good job with the close
  clearances found in the KX1.  You can purchase he tips at
  www.hmcelectronics.com and a variety of other places.
 
  This long slender is not for normal use, but its long reach is
 necessary for
  use in close quarters such as when doing the de-soldering for
 the KXB3080
  option.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 headphone audio for sound card PSK31?

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Cathy,

I really have not had any problem using the headphone output - I have always
found that the AF Gain control on the K2 could be advanced sufficiently to
overdrive the sound card line-in.

You may want to look at something like the K2 Fixed Audio Output that I have
on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com . I have a few boards left, but no
kits.

As for setting up the RTTY filters, my recommendation is to set FL1 just
like the SSB filter, FL2 at 1.00, FL3 at 0.70 and FL4 at 0.40.  Center FL2
thru FL4 on 1000 Hz.  In operation, you use the VFO to place the desired
signal near 1000 Hz, then you can narrow the filters if a strong signal
comes into the passband and activates the AGC - reducing the receiver
sensitivity.  Running PSK31 with AGC off is often a better way to operate.
BTW - lock the transmit frequency in your software if you use other than the
FL1 filter to keep the QSO from creeping up or down the band due to slight
differences in the audio pitch between filters.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I ran some tests this evening with my K2 and my computer sound card and
 HamScope software.  80 meters was not great, but it was open and there
 were a number of QSOs going on.

 The K2 was able to pick up signals and decode them quite well, and the
 narrow filters really help block QRM.  (My RTTY filter bandpasses are
 all over the place, though; I don't think I ever finished setting them
 up after getting Spectrogram going.  Have to revisit that!)

 However, the audio drive from the K2 is much less than from the DX-70TH
 that I use as my primary digital mode rig.  Although the signals decoded
 well, the traces on the waterfall barely showed even at fairly high
 soundcard record volume settings.  With the DX-70TH plugged into the
 sound card instead, the same signals were brilliant yellow and easily
 found by eye.

 What can I do to increase the audio output level of the K2 for sound
 card purposes?

 Cathy
 N5WVR


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RE: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
David,

All those voltages are about right for a VFO that is not oscillating.  Do
not be concerned about a voltage that is only a few 10s of millivolts
different from the chart.  Actual readings will vary a bit from DMM to DMM.

The important voltage now is the gate of Q18 - it should go negative once
some RF is developed in the gate circuit.

The best I can tell you right now is to turn to the schematic - RF Board
Sheet 1 of 4 and look at the VFO components in the upper right quadrant of
that page.  Check the placement and value of each of those components.  If
you have trouble physically locating any component, the Parts Placement
diagrams can be helpful.  Be certain the diodes are oriented correctly.
Re-check T5, or even rewind it.  Be certain the T5 leads are well tinned and
soldered.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Double-checking DC voltage measurements on 3 transistors.

 Item Measured  Chart
 Q18
 ---
 G:   0.00  -1.0 !!
 S:   1.97 **2to3
 D:   7.97   6.3 !

 Q17
 ---
 G:   2.16 * 2.2
 S:   0.00   0.0
 D:   1.97 **2to3

 Q16
 ---
 E:   0.00  0.0
 B:   0.55  0.6
 C:   2.16 *2.2
 --
 David Dawson


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RE: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
David,

Reviewing your voltage readings with my 2nd cup of tea this morning, I find
Q17 might be giving you a problem.  Temporarily short the drain of Q17 to
ground and see if your VFO starts oscillating.

If it does, then Q17 may have been zapped during handling and installation -
those 2N7000s are static sensitive.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David C Dawson
 Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:07 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem


 Double-checking DC voltage measurements on 3 transistors.

 Item Measured  Chart
 Q18
 ---
 G:   0.00  -1.0 !!
 S:   1.97 **2to3
 D:   7.97   6.3 !

 Q17
 ---
 G:   2.16 * 2.2
 S:   0.00   0.0
 D:   1.97 **2to3

 Q16
 ---
 E:   0.00  0.0
 B:   0.55  0.6
 C:   2.16 *2.2
 --
 David Dawson

 The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men
 of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding.
 -- Justice Louis D. Brandeis

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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?

2006-11-15 Thread John Reiser

Hi Doug,

Ken, K3IU kindly sent me this link.

http://shop.kiesub.com/Search.bok?category=Solder+Equipment%3ADesolder+N

73,

John, W2GW

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Doug Person [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 7:21 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?



Doug,

Well, I just checked and they do not list it on their website.  I would 
give

them a phone call to see if they still carry it.  You will find pleasant
folks at the other end of the phone line.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-

Don - I wasn't able to find the A1394 tip at your suggested link.  I
even used their Quick Search with no joy.  I think I could use one of
those tips, too.

73, Doug -- K0DXV

Don Wilhelm wrote:

 The Hakko A1394 extra long 1.0mm nozzle does a good job with the close
 clearances found in the KX1.  You can purchase he tips at
 www.hmcelectronics.com and a variety of other places.

 This long slender is not for normal use, but its long reach is
necessary for
 use in close quarters such as when doing the de-soldering for
the KXB3080
 option.

 73,
 Don W3FPR




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RE: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?

2006-11-15 Thread Tom Hammond

Check:

http://shop.kiesub.com/Search.bok?category=Solder+Equipment%3ADesolder+Nozzles

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Doug,

Well, I just checked and they do not list it on their website.  I would give
them a phone call to see if they still carry it.  You will find pleasant
folks at the other end of the phone line.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Don - I wasn't able to find the A1394 tip at your suggested link.  I
 even used their Quick Search with no joy.  I think I could use one of
 those tips, too.

 73, Doug -- K0DXV

 Don Wilhelm wrote:

  The Hakko A1394 extra long 1.0mm nozzle does a good job with the close
  clearances found in the KX1.  You can purchase he tips at
  www.hmcelectronics.com and a variety of other places.
 
  This long slender is not for normal use, but its long reach is
 necessary for
  use in close quarters such as when doing the de-soldering for
 the KXB3080
  option.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR


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[Elecraft] sidetone mod now works

2006-11-15 Thread kt5x
The sidetone mod by TF3MA was installed in my K2 right after Marti posted 
it.  I obtained a 47 mh inductor for this mod from Elecraft.  The mod 
resulted in an improved sidetone, but left room for further improvement, 
especially at lower tones.  Additionally there was an objectionable pin-prick 
sound at the make of the muting that was annoying to hear.

Recently I decided to revisit this situation.

I noticed in Marti's write-up that HIS 47 mh inductor had an internal 
resistance of 180 ohms.  With the K2 apart, I measured the inductor I had 
received from Elecraft and sure enough, it had an internal resistance of only 
40 ohms.  This would entirely change the frequency response Marti's peaking 
high-pass filter.  Elecraft is apparently using an 82 mh inductor in its mod, 
I obtained that, and found it has an internal resistance of 60 ohms which 
would seem to offer less than an ideal result.

I put a 150 ohm resistor in series with the 47 mh / 40 ohm inductor 
originally used when I modified the radio some years ago.  Folks, the 
difference is DRAMATIC !!!  The sidetone is louder, clear, and is that way 
across its entire range from 400 to 800 cycles.  Not only that, the tone is 
so much stronger that the slight pin-prick click from the make of the muting 
line is all but completely inaudible in the strength of the sidetone and no 
longer objectionable.

A big thank you to Marti and to W3FPR who both stayed with me through my 
frustration trying to make this thing right.  For a while they must have 
thought my hearing was the main problem because the radio seemed to have the 
right modifications in it to sound well.  

Maybe this will be helpful information for others.

73,  Fred KT5X
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RE: [Elecraft] Help - XFIL doesn't work -problem solved

2006-11-15 Thread Solosko, Robert B (Bob)
Don,

Your experience, expertise and advice does it again. Since my K2 has 
worked fine since I built it a year ago, I didn't think that this would be a 
solder problem, especially since the problem surfaced when installing the 
KPA100. Tom, N0SS, suggested that I re-do the BFO calibration, as you did. 
Re-doing the BFO range check the other day showed that the lower end of the 
range was above the limit by several kHz and re-setting the filters with 
Spectrogram didn't improve things. Then last night I resoldered all of the 
components used in the BFO and IF filter. Doing the BFO range check again, it 
was now right where it should be. Running CAL PLL and resetting the filters 
with Spectrogram brought my K2 back to it normal operation. So, apparently 
there was a marginal solder joint that was loosened by all of the moving and 
shaking associated with installing the KPA100. Thank you so much, and to Tom 
also, for your help and advise.

Bob W1SRB

PS - the Rework Eliminators again showed their value. I had to remove the DSP 
board to get to one of the test points, and I removed the SSB and noise blanker 
boards to re-solder the BFO and filter components. It took all of about 15 
seconds to put the unheaders back in place of these boards so I could test the 
BFO and filters, both before and after the re-soldering effort.


-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2006 8:32 PM
To: Solosko, Robert B (Bob); elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Help - XFIL doesn't work


Robert,

Did the base K2 receive OK before you added the KPA100? - note that the
KPA100 has nothing to do with the base K2 receive, but I would like to know
if it worked fine at one time in the past.

The most likely thing that would cause the filter settings to fail is a
failure of the BFO or a failure in the IF filter itself.  My vote is on the
BFO - go back to page 62 of your manual and re-do the BFO range test.  If
that is OK, then try to re-do the filter alignment using Spectrogram.
Should you notice strange results with the filter alignment, then check all
the components in the lower center portion of the schematic sheet 2 of 4 for
proper soldering and proper component placement.

The most probable cause of failure is a bad solder connection.  First thing
is to check the soldering, then re-check the soldering.  When you have
completed that, check the soldering!  Often another pair of eyes will see
something that you have overlooked numerous times - if you can find someone
else to review your work, that may prove revealing.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

   Then, on CW I tuned in a strong signal, and because there
 was lots of QRM, hit the XFIL to a narrower filter, and the
 signal al shifted up a lot in frequency and almost disappeared.
 It did completely disappear with a still narrower filter. Going
 to SSB, there were lots of signals, but none of them were
 intelligible. Checking the XFIL menu setting, they were all still
 as I had set them, so this isn't a menu problem.

   I then removed the KPA100 and the XFIL problem was still
 there. The next step was to see just what the filters were doing
 using Spectrogram. The broadest CW filter, which I had set to
 1.6kHz, was more like 2.6 kHz (which explains the QRM). The other
 filters, which I had set to 1.0, 0.6 and 0.3 kHz were also about
 30% broader and were all centered around 1.4kHz. For these
 filters, changing the BFO down to a setting of 0 moved them down
 only to about 750Hz and there was no way to get them down to
 600Hz. The LSB filters were similarly messed up, with really
 messed up filter shapes. I adjusted them as I could. Plugging in
 my antenna, CW signals were a little more readable, but not much,
 and SSB was still unintelligible.


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[Elecraft] In the Federal Register

2006-11-15 Thread Rajiv Dewan, N2RD
The changes to Part 97 have appeared in the 11/15/2006 edition of the  
Federal Register.  So they will go into effect on 12/15.  Does this  
imply that the amps (KPA 800 and KPA1500) will be available on 12/15?


Raj

--
Rajiv Dewan, N2RD
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
FN13fc

--

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 headphone audio for sound card PSK31?

2006-11-15 Thread Bernard Gaffney
I've noticed the same thing about audio level,
especially out of the headphone jack. The rear speaker
jack seems to provide a higher audio level, so you may
want to try that. While I've not looked at the
circuitry involved, my guess is that the headphone
audio circuit does some attenuation of the audio, to
help keep from blowing out your eardrums when a loud
static crash or other noisy/loud signal pops up.

One other thing, if you're using your PC's
on-mainboard built in soundcard, consider using a
dedicated soundcard. Even a low end Creative soundcard
is infinitely better than the built-in card. And of
course, go to the manufacturer's web page and download
and install the latest driver updates.

   72 de N8PVZ
 ---bernie
 


 -Original Message-
 snip
What can I do to increase the audio output level of
the K2 for sound card purposes?




 

Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. 
$310k for $999/mo. Calculate new payment! 
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[Elecraft] OT: EPC PSK63 QSO Party 2006

2006-11-15 Thread Bernard Gaffney
The EPC (European PSK Club) will be holding their 2006
PSK63 QSO Party Sunday, 19Nov2006 from 00:00 UTC until
24:00 UTC.

More info on the Contest and EPC can be found at their
website

 http://www.eu.srars.org

The contest is open to non-EPC members. Membership
(not required to participate in the contest) is free
however, and non-EU's are welcome to join. Info on
becoming a member is also available on the web page.

 Hope to work a few Elecrafters on PSK63 this coming
Sunday.

   72 de N8PVZ
  ---bernie gaffney



 

Sponsored Link

Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. 
$420k for $1,399/mo. Calculate new payment! 
www.LowerMyBills.com/lre
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[Elecraft] Component ID

2006-11-15 Thread wsm
HI

I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than
sorry!
Thanks
Scott N5SM

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RE: [Elecraft] Component ID

2006-11-15 Thread Darwin, Keith
Hmmm, I did a quick Google search on 25LC320.  It said it was an serial
SPI bus EEPROM.

Talk about knock me over.  I'm in the middle of configuring software to
talk to ... a SPI bus EEPROM.

If google is right, then the LM380N and 25LC320 are NOT the same thing
...

- Keith whatdoiknowi'mjustasoftwareguy N1AS - 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 11:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Component ID

HI

I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than sorry!
Thanks
Scott N5SM

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RE: [Elecraft] Differences between SA602 and SA612

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Doug,

For all practical purposes there is no difference, they can be used
interchangably.  Download the datasheets if you wish to confirm that fact.

73,
Don w3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Just curious.  Does anyone know what the differences are between the
 SA602 and the SA612 mixers?

 Doug K0DXV


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Re: [Elecraft] Component ID

2006-11-15 Thread Marshall Jose

Scott,

On the control board, U9 is the LM380 which you should have, and U7 is 
the 25LC320 serial EEPROM which you ALSO should have. So it sounds like 
you might be missing the LM380, eh?


Well, based on my experience, you should go through everything again 
with a stronger source of illumination before calling Elecraft to ask to 
have a missing part replaced. :)


Good luck!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


HI

I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than
sorry!
Thanks
Scott N5SM


--

Marshall Jose, WA3VPZ


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RE: [Elecraft] Component ID

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Scott,

You will need the 25LC320 for the U7 slot - an LM380N-8 must go into U9.
Check all the 8 pin devices on the black foam again - Christine rarely makes
a packing mistake.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I am inventorying my k2 kit and have a question.
 On the control board I should have a LM380N-8 audio amp.
 I don't have that, but do have a 25LC320/1fv0526.
 They are probably the same, but would rather be sure than
 sorry!
 Thanks
 Scott N5SM


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 headphone audio for sound card PSK31?

2006-11-15 Thread Phil Kane
On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 22:16:50 -0600, Cathy James wrote:

What can I do to increase the audio output level of the K2 for sound
card purposes?

 Others have made some suggestions but I'll add mine as responses
 to their postings:

 On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 07:41:57 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:

You may want to look at something like the K2 Fixed Audio Output
that I have on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com . I have a
few boards left, but no kits.

  I can second that suggestion...I have installed it in my K2/100
  and after my local builder (I may look great but I don't see
  well) worked out a problem of a less-than-perfect wire-to-connector
  joint, I am super-pleased with it.

Running PSK31 with AGC off is often a better way to operate.

  I've asked this before - how does one turn the AGC off in a
  K2/100?

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 07:49:19 -0800 (PST), Bernard Gaffney wrote:

One other thing, if you're using your PC's
on-mainboard built in soundcard, consider using a
dedicated soundcard. Even a low end Creative soundcard
is infinitely better than the built-in card. And of
course, go to the manufacturer's web page and download
and install the latest driver updates.

  We find things out the hard way -- Windows XP will not
  recognize a separate soundcard unless the mainboard sound
  system is disabled.  This was not acceptable for my
  istallation.

  The way I worked around that is to use an iMic adapter that
  plugs into a USB port.  XP will then recognize that as a
  separate sound system and permit both to operate simultaneously.
  The iMic is readily available at places which casrry portable audio
  stuff.

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 09:09:44 +, Julian, G4ILO wrote:

You can take the audio output from the external speaker socket at the back
of the rig.

  Prior to using Don Wilhelm's Fixed Audio Output option, that's
  what I did.

  I used a readily-available Y-splitter to pipe output to the
  iMic (USB soundcard) and to an outboard computer multimedia
  speaker which had a volume control. That way I could use the
  K2 for both digital (silent) and regular hamming, and not have
  to adjust the K2's audio/RF gain controls back and forth.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

   From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
   Beaverton (Washington County)  Oregon



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 headphone audio for sound card PSK31?

2006-11-15 Thread Doug Person
Usually disabling the built-in sound system in a PC is simple.  You go 
into the BIOS configuration and select disable in the list of devices.  
Do this first, then plug-in your soundcard and you shouldn't have any 
problems.


I do disagree with the statement that most built-in sound systems are 
inadequate for PSK31.  I think that would be the exception rather than 
the rule.  I have yet to find a built-in that has problems with PSK-31.  
I wouldn't want to attempt a Software-Defined Radio that relies on a 
computer's built-in sound system.  But the performance requirements for 
good PSK31 support is not all that demanding for modern PC's built 
within the last 3 or 4 years.


Doug -- K0DXV

Phil Kane wrote:

On Tue, 14 Nov 2006 22:16:50 -0600, Cathy James wrote:

  

What can I do to increase the audio output level of the K2 for sound
card purposes?



 Others have made some suggestions but I'll add mine as responses
 to their postings:

 On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 07:41:57 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:

  

You may want to look at something like the K2 Fixed Audio Output
that I have on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com . I have a
few boards left, but no kits.



  I can second that suggestion...I have installed it in my K2/100
  and after my local builder (I may look great but I don't see
  well) worked out a problem of a less-than-perfect wire-to-connector
  joint, I am super-pleased with it.

  

Running PSK31 with AGC off is often a better way to operate.



  I've asked this before - how does one turn the AGC off in a
  K2/100?

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 07:49:19 -0800 (PST), Bernard Gaffney wrote:

  

One other thing, if you're using your PC's
on-mainboard built in soundcard, consider using a
dedicated soundcard. Even a low end Creative soundcard
is infinitely better than the built-in card. And of
course, go to the manufacturer's web page and download
and install the latest driver updates.



  We find things out the hard way -- Windows XP will not
  recognize a separate soundcard unless the mainboard sound
  system is disabled.  This was not acceptable for my
  istallation.

  The way I worked around that is to use an iMic adapter that
  plugs into a USB port.  XP will then recognize that as a
  separate sound system and permit both to operate simultaneously.
  The iMic is readily available at places which casrry portable audio
  stuff.

On Wed, 15 Nov 2006 09:09:44 +, Julian, G4ILO wrote:

  

You can take the audio output from the external speaker socket at the back
of the rig.



  Prior to using Don Wilhelm's Fixed Audio Output option, that's
  what I did.

  I used a readily-available Y-splitter to pipe output to the
  iMic (USB soundcard) and to an outboard computer multimedia
  speaker which had a volume control. That way I could use the
  K2 for both digital (silent) and regular hamming, and not have
  to adjust the K2's audio/RF gain controls back and forth.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

   From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
   Beaverton (Washington County)  Oregon



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[Elecraft] Desolder tool

2006-11-15 Thread George
I found the Radio Shack desolder tool # 64-2060 to be quite effective, and it 
was less than $15, as I recall.  It heats up somewhat slowly, but the tip does 
get quite hot, when it reaches terminal temp, so keep that in mind.  It uses a 
rubber bulb for suction, and certainly works better than RS's spring loaded 
pencil type device, which I have also used.
 
73, N4YM
















b
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Re: [Elecraft] Desolder tool

2006-11-15 Thread Sam Morgan

George wrote:

I found the Radio Shack desolder tool # 64-2060 to be quite effective, and it 
was less than $15, as I recall.  It heats up somewhat slowly, but the tip does 
get quite hot, when it reaches terminal temp, so keep that in mind.  It uses a 
rubber bulb for suction, and certainly works better than RS's spring loaded 
pencil type device, which I have also used.
 
has anyone figured out some kind of, switchable, motorized replacement for the 
rubber bulb? Something like, somehow using an aquarium pump in reverse?

--
GB  73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?

2006-11-15 Thread Stan Rife
I'd also like to see what you have put together, Doug. I have trouble keeping 
mine from tipping over on the bench. I thought about anchoring it to the table.
   
  Stan
  W5EWA
  

Jack Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Doug:

If you send me the photo, I'll put it up in the Construction area of 
www.cliftonlaboratories.com as it might be of interest to Z90 builders 
as well.

Jack


Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-655-8604 wrote:
 I've found the 1394 to be useful, too.

 Do we have a photos area? I could put up a picture of the base I
 constructed which is just a small chassis with the stock Hakko holder
 screwed to it, a lighted AC switched socket so I don't have to
 actually unplug the thing, and small screws up through the chassis to
 act as posts to store the extra tips. It makes the 808 even more
 convenient.

 73, doug

 Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2006 21:21:43 -0700
 From: Doug Person 

 John,

 There are finer tips for the Hakko 808. The A1003 tip is much smaller 
 (about half the diameter) than the standard one supplied. I have 
 rarely had to pull out the role of Chem-wick to get a component out - 
 but it happens occasionally.

 http://www.tequipment.net/Hakko808.html#nozzles

 73, Doug -- K0DXV

 John Reiser wrote:
  Hi,
 
  I've noticed that lots of folks on this list praise highly the Hakko 808 
  desoldering tool. My question is: which tip do you all use?
 
  I own a Hakko 808, and find it too clumsy with the tip that comes with it 
  to be much use for Elecraft and other kit boards. For example, I believe it 
  would be completely useless for doing the 80-30 mod to the KX1. I have 
  tried the tool, and don't like it. I hardly ever use it anymore. I have 
  come to much prefer 1/10 Chem-wick for any desoldering that I have had to 
  do.
 
  It occurs to me that maybe with a longer or thinner tip the Hakko might 
  live up to its reputation. But which one, and where does one acquire it?
 
  Thanks and 73,
 
  John, W2GW
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Re: [Elecraft] Component ID

2006-11-15 Thread Joseph Reed
Don,

Your advice to re-inventory is correct.  But Christine has been known to have 
had a bad day.  In my last K2 (K2, KSB2, KIO2, KNB2, K60XV,K160RX, KAF2, KAT2, 
KBT2, EC2, KPA100, KAT100) I have been short shipped THREE (3) parts.

As the late Carl Sagen would say, Billions and billions of parts.  It sure 
seemed that way.  Whew we are talking five nines plus!

That is phenominal.  Eric and Wayne need to add a web page to show us who some 
of the people who make the magic/mojo happen.

But you bet check the foam, both sides.  Even Vegas wouldn't bet, much less put 
a line on Christine.  

Joe N9JR

- Original Message 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 11:40:43 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Component ID


Scott,

You will need the 25LC320 for the U7 slot - an LM380N-8 must go into U9.
Check all the 8 pin devices on the black foam again - Christine rarely makes
a packing mistake.

73,
Don W3FPR
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RE: [Elecraft] Turning AGC off

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil,

To turn the K2 AGC off, press the PRE/ATT and AGC buttons at the same time.
See the K2 manual (rev F) page 100.
73,
Don W3FPR 

 -Original Message-
 Running PSK31 with AGC off is often a better way to operate.
 
   I've asked this before - how does one turn the AGC off in a
   K2/100?
 
 
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[Elecraft] KX1 vs K1

2006-11-15 Thread Bob P

Hi All,

I'm sure this has been covered before, but for hiking and backpacking is it
a choice between the KX1 and K1, is one better then the other ?  Or is it a 
nocontest and that the KX1 is

the winner because of being smaller and lighter ?

What about portable antenna's - a long wire ? or is their some thing as
almost simple but better ? Cheaper ?

Bob KC8IPQ 


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Re: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem

2006-11-15 Thread David C Dawson
THANKS DON! The problem is solved, and good news - Q17 is fine.

When I got your email, I turned on the rig and put the frequency probe
on TP1. This time it measured a frequency and a correct one at that.

I thought - Before it didn't work. Now it does. H...H... Aha!
loose connection! So I touched Q17 and off it went, I found a poor
solder joint that my (non) eagle eye missed.

Talk about bone headed screwdriver experts, eh?

On Wed, Nov 15, 2006 at 08:03:06AM -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 David,
 
 Reviewing your voltage readings with my 2nd cup of tea this morning, I find
 Q17 might be giving you a problem.  Temporarily short the drain of Q17 to
 ground and see if your VFO starts oscillating.
 
 If it does, then Q17 may have been zapped during handling and installation -
 those 2N7000s are static sensitive.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David C Dawson
  Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 3:07 AM
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem
 
 
  Double-checking DC voltage measurements on 3 transistors.
 
  Item Measured  Chart
  Q18
  ---
  G:   0.00  -1.0 !!
  S:   1.97 **2to3
  D:   7.97   6.3 !
 
  Q17
  ---
  G:   2.16 * 2.2
  S:   0.00   0.0
  D:   1.97 **2to3
 
  Q16
  ---
  E:   0.00  0.0
  B:   0.55  0.6
  C:   2.16 *2.2
  --
  David Dawson
 
  The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men
  of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding.
  -- Justice Louis D. Brandeis
 
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  --
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.5/533 - Release Date: 11/13/2006
 
 
 

-- 
David Dawson

A strong conviction that something must be done is the parent of many
bad measures.
-- Daniel Webster

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[Elecraft] yet another logging question

2006-11-15 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
I've only been at this for less than a year, so my logging needs
have not been very intense. So far, I've been logging in a spreadsheet
on my ancient Psion PDA.

This works fine for my fairly casual operating - I play in a few
contests for contacts, but not for points - but it does not help
me with things like LOTW, which I'd like to start using.

Since I have a K2 at the home QTH, it seems like Ham Radio Deluxe is
an obvious place to start, and I'll start there. But I also operate /P
with my KX1. I'd like to keep a single log and have it be pretty
easy to switch virtual QTHs - I tried this once in eQSL and the
pain of multiple QTHs drove me away, screaming.

I'm contemplating switching to a Palm PDA, so I'd be interested
in hearing about logging software that runs there, especially if it
knows how to export the log in a way that HRD will import :-)

Thanks very much.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] Hakko 808 tip?

2006-11-15 Thread Jack Smith
I've posted Doug, N6TQS's, photos and description of his Hakko 808 
mounting box at 
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/construction_updates.htm. It in the 
15 November 2006 entry.


Very nice job!

Of course, you are welcome to read the rest of that page and the rest of 
the site as well.


Jack K8ZOA

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RE: [Elecraft] yet another logging question

2006-11-15 Thread Gregg R. Lengling
I would agree that you should try Ham Radio Deluxe, along with all the
programs included it's a wonderful tool (including auto uploads to
Eqsl).  At this time PSK31 Deluxe that is part of the suite is being
replaced and is in Beta testing, the digital mode program is called
DM780 and will be integrated to HRD, along with new modes like Olivia.
Great piece of software.

Cheers,
Gregg W9DHI
http://forums.ham-radio.ch


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Kantarjiev
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 2:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] yet another logging question

I've only been at this for less than a year, so my logging needs
have not been very intense. So far, I've been logging in a spreadsheet
on my ancient Psion PDA.

This works fine for my fairly casual operating - I play in a few
contests for contacts, but not for points - but it does not help
me with things like LOTW, which I'd like to start using.

Since I have a K2 at the home QTH, it seems like Ham Radio Deluxe is
an obvious place to start, and I'll start there. But I also operate /P
with my KX1. I'd like to keep a single log and have it be pretty
easy to switch virtual QTHs - I tried this once in eQSL and the
pain of multiple QTHs drove me away, screaming.

I'm contemplating switching to a Palm PDA, so I'd be interested
in hearing about logging software that runs there, especially if it
knows how to export the log in a way that HRD will import :-)

Thanks very much.

73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 vs K1

2006-11-15 Thread Rick Dettinger
Hi Bob -   The KX1 gets the nod here.  But for locations that I access by
car, I like my K1 better.  For that reason, I sold my KX1 and built another
K1.  I sold my first K1 when I built my KX1.  I don't take a rig hiking
much, due to we usually have a quick turn around time, and head back.  If I
want a hiking rig, I will use an SST.  The K1 is a much more pleasant rig to
use and has a  performance advantage.  There should be much more in the
archives.
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
=


 Hi All,

 I'm sure this has been covered before, but for hiking and backpacking is
it
 a choice between the KX1 and K1, is one better then the other ?  Or is it
a
 nocontest and that the KX1 is
 the winner because of being smaller and lighter ?

 What about portable antenna's - a long wire ? or is their some thing as
 almost simple but better ? Cheaper ?

 Bob KC8IPQ


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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Nov 15 - Dec 13, 2006

2006-11-15 Thread Ken Newman


~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
November 15 - December 13, 2006
~
80 METER FOXHUNT - EACH Wenesday 0200z to 0329z
(Tue 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT - Each Friday 0200z to 0329z
(Thurs 9 PM to 10:29 PM EST)
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint *** QRP CONTEST! ***
EST: Nov 15, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Nov 16, 0130z to 0330z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
YO International PSK31 Contest (80 Meters) ... 50W max
Nov 17, 1600z to 2200z
Rules: http://hamat5.atw.hu/PSKrul2006en.html
~
LZ DX CONTEST (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Nov 18, 1200z to Nov 19, 1200z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/lz1fw/contest/
~
ARRL Sweepstakes (Phone) ... QRP Category
Nov 18, 2100z to Nov 20, 0300z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~
HOT Party (CW) ... QRP Category
Nov 19, 1300z to 1500z (40 Meters)
Nov 19, 1500z to 1700z (80 Meters)
(HOMEBREW  OLDTIME - EQUIPMENT - PARTY)
Rules: http://www.qrpcc.de/
~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Nov 19, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Nov 20, 0200z 0400z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~
CQ World Wide DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category!
Nov 25, z to Nov 26, 2400z
Rules: http://www.cqww.com/
~
QRP BARBERSHOP QUARTET CONTEST (CW QRP)... QRP Contest!
Nov 29, 9 PM to 11 PM EST
Rules: http://www.io.com/~n5fc/barbershop_contest.htm
~
QRP ARCI Topband CW  SSB Sprint *** QRP CONTEST ***
Nov 30, z to 0600z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/
~
EU PSK QRP Party *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 1, 2000z to 2400z
Rules: http://dqso.net/eupsk-2006-en.html
~
ARRL 160 meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 1, 2200z to Dec 3, 1600z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~
TARA RTTY Mêlée ... 150W category
Dec 2, z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_melee_rules.html
~
Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 02, 0400z to 0600z
Rules: http://www.qrp.ru/sprint_e.htm
~
TOPS Activity 80 Meter Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 2, 1800z to Dec 3, 1800z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/topsac.htm
~
New Mexico QSO Party (Phone/CW) ... QRP Category
Dec 3, z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.hornucopia.com/contestcal/newmexqp.pdf
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
Dec 5, 0200z to 0400z  (First Monday 9 PM EST)
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~
ARRL 10 Meter Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Dec 9, z to Dec 10, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2006
~
UBA Low Band Winter Contest (CW/SSB/RTTY/PSK) .. QRP Category
Dec 9, 1800z to 2200z and
Dec 10, 0500z to 0900z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/ubalbwc.htm
~
The Great Colorado Snowshoe Run (40 Mtr CW)... QRP Category
MST: Dec 09. 1900 to 2049
UTC: Dec 10, 0200 to 0359
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/months/dec.html
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
EST: Dec 12, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Dec 13, 0130Z to 0330Z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others
for assistance in compiling this calendar.

Please foreward the contest info you sponsor to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
we will post it and give it more publicity.
Anyone may use this N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar for your website,
newsletter, e-mail list or other media as you choose.
(Include a credit to the source of this material of course.)
72 de
Ken Newman - N2CQ
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

http://www.amqrp.org/contesting/contesting.html
http://www.n3epa.org/Pages/Contest/contest.htm

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RE: [Elecraft] Alignment of VCO - Problem

2006-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
David,

Don't feel too bad - it happens to lots of folks.  This is the 3rd instance
that I recall in the last 2 days where the problem turned out to be a bad
solder connection.  It is by far the most common problem encountered by
builders.  So much so that I often say Check the soldering, and then
re-check the soldering, and when you have finished that - check the
soldering.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 THANKS DON! The problem is solved, and good news - Q17 is fine.

 When I got your email, I turned on the rig and put the frequency probe
 on TP1. This time it measured a frequency and a correct one at that.

 I thought - Before it didn't work. Now it does. H...H... Aha!
 loose connection! So I touched Q17 and off it went, I found a poor
 solder joint that my (non) eagle eye missed.

 Talk about bone headed screwdriver experts, eh?


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[Elecraft] K2 CW test mode

2006-11-15 Thread David
Hello All,

Unlike most of the people on this mailing list, my CW sending skill is very 
poor.  So I have bought a paddle and am practicing regularly.  One thing I 
have found with my K2 (S/N 5492) is that the CW test mode will sound a 
continuous note with both paddles pressed.  This happens intermittently and 
in mode A or B.  I have been using speeds around 15 to 20 wpm.

The answer is to set the power down to minimum and use a dummy load - which I 
have been doing and the problem hasn't happened.  I suspect its a firmware 
issue since the display is being a bit more active than usual flashing the 
'c' character, than when normally transmitting.

More an observation than a problem that must be fixed.

73 de David VK5DG
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[Elecraft] OT: Ham radio promotional video

2006-11-15 Thread Larry

Noticed the following on eham:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAOOd48j6WA

Its a very well done video showing ham radio and contesting. Worth a look.

--
73
Larry
WA2DGD


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[Elecraft] KXB3080 - Same output power on 40m as 20m - How to fix?

2006-11-15 Thread Martin Gillen

Hi, Elecrafters.

I'm hoping someone can help!

I completed my KXB3080 modification tonight but during testing I
discovered that I am getting pretty much the same transmit power out
(1.8W with 10V) on 40m as 20m (according to the KXAT1 this is the only
watt-meter I have) into a 50 ohm load.  I took the board out and
squeezed the green turns on L2 of the LPF1 board together as tightly
as I could and replaced the board back into the case, but it didn't
make any difference I still get the same power out on 40m as 20m.  I
understand that this may be an indication that the harmonic
suppression is not working correctly as I should be getting about .6W
lower power on 20m (I certainly was before the mod!)

I placed a scanner across the room (with a 2m rubber duck antenna)
from the KX1 driving a magnetic loop antenna tuned to 7040kHz and
transmitted on 7040kHz.  The scanner showed full scale deflection.  I
then tuned the scanner to the 1st harmonic 14080kHz and the scanner
'S' meter was maybe 4/5ths deflected.

I know that isn't very scientific, it may be telling me the harmonic
suppression isn't good or maybe it's not.  I don't have anything
sophisticated like a spectrum analyzer to do a proper analysis of the
relative strength of the 1st harmonic versus the fundamental.

The LPF1 went pretty much the way the manual said it should.  I'm sure
it's getting power as I see a 60mA draw on 80m.  The only difference
between my LPF1 and the manual's picture is that my LPF1 PCB doesn't
sit flush to the KX1 PCB because the turns on L1 and L2 extend
slightly past the edge of the LPF1 board.  It is about 1mm away from
the KX1 board, but the turns of L1  L2 are flush to the board.

Does anyone have any suggestions about how I could start tracing this
fault?  Should I try compressing the red turns on L2, or the green or
red turns on L1?

Thanks,
Martin.
VA3SIE.
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