Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

2009-08-04 Thread Dave - AB7E

I think I saw the article for that one myself, or at least a similar one by 
somebody else.  I guess very low profile would be the major advantage of one 
for mobiling, but almost anything else would be a better choice for any other 
application.

I actually built a DDRR about 40 years ago (for 20m, I think) comprised of wire 
laid out on the floor of my apartment in Cedar Rapids, Iowa.  That was back 
when it was still touted as a Directional Discontinuity Ring Radiator ... an 
erroneous description akin to the silliness of the more recent EH antenna 
claims.  I pumped 100 watts into my DDRR and made several contacts, but the RF 
burns it put out if I got too close to it were very painful.

73,
Dave   AB7E



--Original Mail--
From: David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com
To: Dave - AB7E xda...@cis-broadband.com,
daleput...@hotmail.com,
g...@isect.com,
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 06:51:19 +0100
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

G3LDR made one as a roof rack many years ago; designed for 20m as I recall.

David
G3UNA





That's not really true.  The DDRR is NOT a loop antenna.  The DDRR is a very 
short vertical with top loading contributed by a shorted transmission line 
(formed by the horizontal loop and the ground plane).  Check the field 
polarization 

73,
Dave   AB7E




Hi Gary,

  Seems to me that you are right on with all but the very last part... and 
that may need some investigation, with relation to the DDRR antenna.. that 
is a loop, and horizontal, over a very good ground. Just a thought

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 


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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

2009-08-04 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Gary Hinson wrote:
 
 By the way, I don't know if it's the same with magnetic loops but the
 fullwave loops radiate mostly broadside to the plane of the loop.
 If the loop is vertically oriented (e.g hanging between two trees),
 the polarization of the signal is determined by whether the loop is
 fed at a horizontal or vertical section of wire.  If the entire loop
 is laid 'flat on its back', most of the radiation heats the ground,
 some heats the clouds but I'm uncertain what polarization the signal
 would be - probably horizontal I guess since all the wire is parallel
 to the ground but I may be wrong.
 
 

With magnetic loops most of the radiation is in the plane of the loop, and
it's vertical polarization if the loop is vertical. But there is not much
directivity. There are nulls axially through the centre of the loop but they
are extremely sharp. The polarization also changes to the horizontal as you
move round to the side too.

According to MFJ if you can get it up high enough you can mount their
magnetic loops horizontal and get omnidirectional horizontal polarization
with nulls straight up and down.

It's interesting switching between the magnetic loop and a dipole, sometimes
the dipole has the stronger signal and sometimes the loop. A receive
magnetic loop would make an inexpensive and easy to make antenna for
diversity reception for those who have the 2nd RX in their K3.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Re%3A-Magnetic-Loops---Stan-tp3378914p3383267.html
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[Elecraft] Rif: Re: problem : k2 rx frequency shift

2009-08-04 Thread Luca . Amendola

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[Elecraft] Noise with KUSB

2009-08-04 Thread Svend Spanget
I recently discovered the source of a very annoying noise in my K3. When
unplugging the USB cable from my USB hub the noise in the receiver
disappears.
How do I get rid of this? I am using HRD, so a connection to my PC is
really needed...
73's Svend, OZ7UV




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[Elecraft] USB to Serial Plus 1500 watts

2009-08-04 Thread Lee Buller
Ok guys

Everything is groundedbut when you are pushing legal limit power in a 
contest, I have blown up my USB to Serial Converter.  It just doesn't work 
after the RF does its magic to it.  That is why I went to a serial connection.  
So, what have people experienced with their USB Converters when running the big 
amp?

Lee - K0WA


 The New Kansas QSO Party - August 29, Sat 9am-9pm and August 30 Sun 9am-3pm 
CDT 
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have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
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[Elecraft] K3 line-input question

2009-08-04 Thread James Sarte
Hello Elecrafters,

Quick question - what could have changed in this scenario?

Using K3 in DATA-A mode; audio from DM780 going into K3 via rear audio input
connector.  The K3's input was set to LINE IN in the main menu.  Volume from
the PC was set to 50%, and as such a PSK-31 signal was registering about 6
bars ALC with line input gain set to 14.

After a while of operating without issue, the waterfall turned into a solid
signal; as if the line audio output of the K3 had locked up.  I had to
switch modes on the K3 to get the waterfall back to normal.  After that,
without any change to the PC output volume or K3 mic gain, transmissions now
registered about 3 bars on the ALC meter.  I had to turn the mic gain up to
about 20-21 to reach the same level of input as before.  I checked the all
volume input and output settings, and they're the same as before.  I also
went through and checked the relevant FW settings and nothing had been
modified.

I'm using FW 3.24(D), which I believe was only issued to a very few number
of testers so I can't go into FW details.  I've CC'd Lyle in case this may
be FW issue.  However, I'd just like to find out from the group if anything
similar has occurred to others or been reported.
All suggestions welcome.
-- 
73 de James K2QI
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB

2009-08-04 Thread James Sarte
Svend, have you tried isolating the K3 and USB hub by using chokes on all of
the K3's inputs and outputs and the USB hub's outputs plus power adaptor
input?

73 de James K2QI
On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 6:38 AM, Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk wrote:

 I recently discovered the source of a very annoying noise in my K3. When
 unplugging the USB cable from my USB hub the noise in the receiver
 disappears.
 How do I get rid of this? I am using HRD, so a connection to my PC is
 really needed...
 73's Svend, OZ7UV


 

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-- 
73 de James K2QI
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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Plus 1500 watts

2009-08-04 Thread Wes Stewart
Some random thoughts:

Unless the contest legal limit is different from the regular legal limit 
(always a possibility I guess) I haven't had any problems.

How did you determine that the USB-serial converter was damaged by RF and not 
something else?

If you have enough RF in the shack to be blowing up things, you have other 
problems that need solving.

Wes


--- On Tue, 8/4/09, Lee Buller k...@swbell.net wrote:

Ok guys

Everything is groundedbut when you are pushing legal limit power in a 
contest, I have blown up my USB to Serial Converter.  It just doesn't work 
after the RF does its magic to it.  That is why I went to a serial connection.  
So, what have people experienced with their USB Converters when running the big 
amp?

Lee - K0WA





  
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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Plus 1500 watts

2009-08-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Lee,

Everything may be grounded, but that is a safety ground, and it 
certainly cannot be relied on for an RF ground.  It sounds like things 
in your shack are hot with RF.  The place to correct that is at the 
antennas - the feedline should not be carrying common mode RF into the 
shack - i.e. all the RF flowing on the feedlines should be balanced and 
no radiation should occur.  That should be true for both coax and 
balanced line.

To repeat, if you have RF in the shack problems, get the RF balanced at 
the antenna feedpoint, and if the feedline is coax, use an effective 
balun to keep the common mode current off the outside of the coax.

73,
Don W3FPR

Lee Buller wrote:
 Ok guys

 Everything is groundedbut when you are pushing legal limit power in a 
 contest, I have blown up my USB to Serial Converter.  It just doesn't work 
 after the RF does its magic to it.  That is why I went to a serial 
 connection.  So, what have people experienced with their USB Converters when 
 running the big amp?

 Lee - K0WA
   

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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

2009-08-04 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Clearly there's a lot of interest in small transmitting loop antennas, so
here are some links I've collected over the past several years that are
still good detailing the efforts of several Hams (I checked them to make
sure they still work ;-):

Harry, SM0VPO, has several interesting designs including one built on a
packing crate about which he wrote:

 I have been placed in a situation where a landlord denied permission to
erect an antenna. Any form of antenna was unreasonable, even a white-painted
broom handle caused interference!! My dartboard frame did not cause any
interference at all... and so he evolved his novel and stealthy small loop
transmitting antenna. 

He also describes an 80 meter frame antenna. At the site below, click on
Projects, then Antennas and then look at links under Antennas on the
left side of the page for 80 meter frame ant and Packing crate ant. 

http://web.telia.com/~u85920178/

--

David, PA3HBB/G0BZF has this nice page detailing his work with loops at:

http://www.qsl.net/pa3hbb/magloop2.htm

At the time he wrote the page he traveled a great deal and writes,  In
order to fill my evenings with something other than foreign television (or
drinking in the bar), I prefer to sit in my room and work the DX on the
radio. Though this situation may not be typical of all of radio amateurs,
the need for a small, effective and portable antenna will surely hit home
with a number of them. 

---

As a sign of the interest small transmitting loops generate, one fellow in
Belgium created a very nice page detailing his loops and the work of others
that ended up swamping him with e-mails, so it was relocated under a new
URL:

http://www.qsl.net/mnqrp/Loop/Mag_Loops.htm

It details making loops as well as ideas for making your own low-loss
capacitors to tune them with. 

---

DJ3TZ built a small loop using copper tubing shown here:

http://www.qsl.net/dj3tz/loop2.html 

It has a nice fairly self-explanatory photo but most of the links on that
page to other pages are now out of date.

--

There are probably hundreds of other links on the net to interesting
information on STLs, but these are just a few that I've collected over the
years. Some of them are over 10 years old now, and clearly still popular. 

73,

Ron AC7AC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

2009-08-04 Thread David Y.
Hi All,

A friend of mine here locally once did quite a bit of modeling for loops. 
He determined that setting up a loop vertically was easier than he expected. 
Horizontal loops are difficult here in the desert.  Anyway, his modeling 
disclosed that the horizontal height of a vertical loop (full wave) only 
needed to be about 30 degrees to start being quite effective.  In other 
words, a 40 meter vertical loop only needed to be about 11 or 12 feet high 
on each end, with the rest of the loop run horizontally.  This is not all 
that difficult to do with readily available supports.  Of course, the bottom 
of the loop should be off the ground as much as possible, so the total 
vertical height should be something more than just 11 or 12 feet.  Vertical 
loops are quite directional, but they have a lower take-off angle for DXing.

Smaller magnetic loops may have similar tendencies.  I know it is important 
to get them up off the ground as much as possible, and I have always had 
much better results using them vertically as opposed to horizontally.  I 
built a couple of these things from magazine articles, and they do work. 
It's hard though, to imagine the efficiency being all that great. 
Nevertheless, they are fun to play with, and not too difficult to make 
yourself.  Bill Jones, KD7S, had a very good article in QST some years back 
which really gives you a lot of important info about doing various things to 
make the antenna as efficient as possible.  His trombone capacitor was 
very interesting, but I haven't tried that yet.

I would think that apartment dwellers, hopefully having a balcony, might 
have some real fun tinkering with these antennas.  If you are high enough 
off the ground you might get decent results using the loop horizontally.  A 
low RPM motor to tune the capacitor makes life easier too.  I bought one 
from Edmund Scientific, and it worked very well.  The tuning will be 
extremely sharp however.  I was never able to go more than a few khz without 
having to retune.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: Julian, G4ILO julian.g4...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 1:35 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops





 Gary Hinson wrote:

 By the way, I don't know if it's the same with magnetic loops but the
 fullwave loops radiate mostly broadside to the plane of the loop.
 If the loop is vertically oriented (e.g hanging between two trees),
 the polarization of the signal is determined by whether the loop is
 fed at a horizontal or vertical section of wire.  If the entire loop
 is laid 'flat on its back', most of the radiation heats the ground,
 some heats the clouds but I'm uncertain what polarization the signal
 would be - probably horizontal I guess since all the wire is parallel
 to the ground but I may be wrong.



 With magnetic loops most of the radiation is in the plane of the loop, and
 it's vertical polarization if the loop is vertical. But there is not much
 directivity. There are nulls axially through the centre of the loop but 
 they
 are extremely sharp. The polarization also changes to the horizontal as 
 you
 move round to the side too.

 According to MFJ if you can get it up high enough you can mount their
 magnetic loops horizontal and get omnidirectional horizontal polarization
 with nulls straight up and down.

 It's interesting switching between the magnetic loop and a dipole, 
 sometimes
 the dipole has the stronger signal and sometimes the loop. A receive
 magnetic loop would make an inexpensive and easy to make antenna for
 diversity reception for those who have the 2nd RX in their K3.

 -
 Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
 * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
 * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
 * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/Re%3A-Magnetic-Loops---Stan-tp3378914p3383267.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB

2009-08-04 Thread Paul Christensen
 I recently discovered the source of a very annoying noise in my K3. When
 unplugging the USB cable from my USB hub the noise in the receiver
 disappears.

I had posted on this topic a couple weeks ago.  I didn't discover my own 
noise problem until I was looking at the noise floor with a SDR-IQ and 
SpectraVue software.  In my case, most of the noise from the USB-to-RS232 
adapter is masked by band noise.

I managed to wind 10-turns of the USB adapter cable through a 0.75-inch I.D. 
#31 ferrite core.  The choke was placed as close as possible to the DB-9 
connector.  After winding, I detected no change which is unusual when using 
these cores.  It may be that the noise is induced in differential mode 
between the USB adapter and the K3.

I ended up discarding the adapter and went with a serial cable connected 
between the K3 and the one and only RS232 serial port on my PC.  Problem 
solved.

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB

2009-08-04 Thread Rick Tavan N6XI
You've found the noise source; now find a way to eliminate or replace it.
Does your USB hub use a wall-wart power supply? Some of these are noisy.
Maybe you have another USB port on your computer to which you can connect
the KUSB directly, bypassing the hub? Also, some USB hubs work OK with the
PS disconnected, depending on the current demands of attached devices.

/Rick N6XI

On 8/4/09, Svend Spanget span...@privat.dk wrote:

 I recently discovered the source of a very annoying noise in my K3. When
 unplugging the USB cable from my USB hub the noise in the receiver
 disappears.
 How do I get rid of this? I am using HRD, so a connection to my PC is
 really needed...
 73's Svend, OZ7UV


 

 TDC Bredbånd for 0 kr.
 - Spar 695 kr. Se http://tdc.dk/freemailtilbud/

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[Elecraft] Adding 6 meters

2009-08-04 Thread n0jrn
Hey gang:

I have my KAT100 and KPA100 in a separate EC2 enclosure.

I considering adding the XV50 to this package.

Has anyone done this and can you tell me if all units can be interfaced at 
the same time 

Just curious !

Thanks and 73:  JerryN0JRN 

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Re: [Elecraft] C/O Brian (Web Administrator) K4

2009-08-04 Thread JIM DAVIS
On Thu, 30 Jul 2009 09:30:31 -0700 (PDT)
  Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Simple, now that most of the issues surrounding the K3 have been addressed 
 and FIXED 
 
 Which ones?  None that I've demonstrated to them have been.
 
 Wes

Dear Wes,

If you've noticed on the Reflector as of late the problems have been minimal
at best! Knobs cracking/breaking or maybe something not up to snuff as concerns 
CW keying, or
maybe ONE PERSON DOES'NT LIKE A PARTICULAR OS! That in my book is all about 
personal preference,
not the fault of Elecraft in that with the rev. 3.14 the rig does 
absolutely EVERYTHING we're
asking of it and can find NO FAULT @ all!

If you're own GRIPES have'nt been addressed by them (Elecraft) then Why not?.


Regards,

Jim/nn6ee

PS,

We operate on CW/SSB/ Digital FLAWLESSLY!

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Re: [Elecraft] C/O Brian (Web Administrator) K4

2009-08-04 Thread James Sarte
Well, to be honest there are still several features advertised that to this
date still haven't been implemented.  For example:

1. Synchronous AM detection
2. Temperature controlled oscillator calibration

Those are just two features missing that I can recall of the top of my head.

Plus there are always improvements in the works.  The next version of the
firmware contains a lot of pleasant surprises.

73 de James

On Thu, Jul 30, 2009 at 5:01 PM, JIM DAVIS nn...@astound.net wrote:

 On Thu, 30 Jul 2009 09:30:31 -0700 (PDT)
  Wes Stewart n...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  Simple, now that most of the issues surrounding the K3 have been
 addressed and FIXED
 
  Which ones?  None that I've demonstrated to them have been.
 
  Wes

 
 Dear Wes,

 If you've noticed on the Reflector as of late the problems have been
 minimal
 at best! Knobs cracking/breaking or maybe something not up to snuff as
 concerns CW keying, or
 maybe ONE PERSON DOES'NT LIKE A PARTICULAR OS! That in my book is all about
 personal preference,
 not the fault of Elecraft in that with the rev. 3.14 the rig does
 absolutely EVERYTHING we're
 asking of it and can find NO FAULT @ all!

 If you're own GRIPES have'nt been addressed by them (Elecraft) then Why
 not?.


 Regards,

 Jim/nn6ee

 PS,

 We operate on CW/SSB/ Digital FLAWLESSLY!

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-- 
73 de James K2QI
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Re: [Elecraft] Adding 6 meters

2009-08-04 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jerry,

No problem at all.  Just take a look at the XV series Owner's Manual - 
on page 11 you will see Figure 7. K2 Extended Control Cabling Hookup 
Diagram.  Connect the KPA100/KAT100 combo package as shown for the 
KAT100 shown in that figure.

73,
Don W3FPR

n0jrn wrote:
 Hey gang:

 I have my KAT100 and KPA100 in a separate EC2 enclosure.

 I considering adding the XV50 to this package.

 Has anyone done this and can you tell me if all units can be interfaced at 
 the same time 

 Just curious !

 Thanks and 73:  JerryN0JRN 
   

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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

2009-08-04 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
We also have an excellent article on Magnetic Loops on our elecraft Tech 
notes page (about half way down the page).

http://www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/tech_notes.htm

73, Eric  WA6HHQ

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[Elecraft] K3 Artifact in AFX mode

2009-08-04 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

During NAQP CW this weekend, I noticed a thump/click sound in my right
headphone when using AFX. I tried a different (new) set of phones thinking
maybe I had a bad diaphragm in the old set, but same sound. It doesn't occur
in normal mono mode.

Too, the headphones feed is from the rear panel, not the front panel
headphone jack. 

I'm using firmware 3.23...

I hadn't noticed this before, but haven't used AFX for a while either. So
not sure if it is coincidental or not...

Thanks,
Julius


-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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Re: [Elecraft] Adding 6 meters

2009-08-04 Thread n0jrn
Thanks Don:


On 8/4/2009 11:08:52 AM, Don Wilhelm (w3...@embarqmail.com) wrote:
 Jerry,

 No problem at all.  Just take a look at the XV series Owner's Manual -
 on page 11 you will see Figure 7. K2 Extended Control Cabling Hookup
 Diagram.  Connect the KPA100/KAT100 combo package as shown for the
 KAT100 shown in that figure.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 n0jrn wrote:
  Hey gang:
 
  I have my KAT100 and KPA100 in a separate EC2 enclosure.
 
  I considering adding the XV50 to this package.
 
  Has anyone done this and can you tell me if all units can be interfaced 
  at
  the same time 
 
  Just curious !
 
  Thanks and 73:  JerryN0JRN
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Level and Heil Pro Set

2009-08-04 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn

I sure would like it...

I swap headphones now, only use the Proset for SSB, prefer the Sony
Walkman's for CW. Less fatigue with those light little things, but no way to
hand a boom mic from 'em hihi

I use both the front and rear connectors for headphones. The Heil is plugged
in the front, the Sony's in the back.

73,
Julius
n2wn


K2MK wrote:
 
 Hi Pete:
 
 I also felt at times that the PROSET headphone volume was too low for my 
 taste. I solved the problem by plugging them into the rear speaker jack.
 Set 
 CONFIG: SPKRS to 2 (for stereo).
 
 I had exchanged e-mails with both Gary and Lyle at Elecraft to make sure 
 this was ok. In one of the e-mails from last December, Lyle made the 
 following comment:
 
 ..we may provide a future option to let you set the relative
 headphone 
 versus speaker level from a CONFIG menu.  Your feedback is very important
 to 
 us!
 
 So be sure to let them know if you think such a config setting might be 
 useful to you. Your posting reminded me that I never got back to Lyle on 
 that subject.
 
 The only downside of using the speaker jack for headphones is if you want
 to 
 use the internal speaker you have to unplug the headphones. The internal 
 speaker is muted when anything is plugged into the external speaker jack.
 
 73,
 Mike K2MK
 
 
 Peter Chamalian
 Sun, 02 Aug 2009 14:06:06 -0700
 
 I've been enjoying my K3 but find the audio output in my Heil Pro Set is
 rather weak.  Is there a mismatch here or some setting that will boost the
 audio level?
 
 
 
 Just for the record, I hae the latest production release firmware, speaker
 +
 phones is no.
 
 
 
 Thanks,
 
 
 
 Pete, W1RM
  
 
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-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3: Wish List--Ad a General coverage mode for SW Listening

2009-08-04 Thread N0SA

I like to use my K3 for general coverage listening from time to time. It is a
great performer for this purpose.
My only complaint is that after I tune around for awhile and then go back to
my Ham band memories they are all screwed up with out of band settings and
AM mode.
  It would be nice to maybe use a PF button to put it in General coverage
mode so it will not effect the Ham band usage.
Larry Naumann  N0SA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 line-input question

2009-08-04 Thread Julian, G4ILO



K2QI wrote:
 
 Hello Elecrafters,
 
 Quick question - what could have changed in this scenario?
 
 Using K3 in DATA-A mode; audio from DM780 going into K3 via rear audio
 input
 connector.  The K3's input was set to LINE IN in the main menu.  Volume
 from
 the PC was set to 50%, and as such a PSK-31 signal was registering about 6
 bars ALC with line input gain set to 14.
 
 After a while of operating without issue, the waterfall turned into a
 solid
 signal; as if the line audio output of the K3 had locked up.  I had to
 switch modes on the K3 to get the waterfall back to normal.  After that,
 without any change to the PC output volume or K3 mic gain, transmissions
 now
 registered about 3 bars on the ALC meter.  I had to turn the mic gain up
 to
 about 20-21 to reach the same level of input as before.  I checked the all
 volume input and output settings, and they're the same as before.  I also
 went through and checked the relevant FW settings and nothing had been
 modified.
 
 I'm using FW 3.24(D), which I believe was only issued to a very few number
 of testers so I can't go into FW details.  I've CC'd Lyle in case this may
 be FW issue.  However, I'd just like to find out from the group if
 anything
 similar has occurred to others or been reported.
 All suggestions welcome.
 
 

I'm not sure what you mean by the waterfall turned into a solid signal.
Did it go black, i.e. dead? One thing that springs to mind is an unreliable
connection. Try waggling the cables around. I can't think of a software
reason for what happened.

By the way you don't need 6 bars on the ALC indication. 4 to 5 is
sufficient. Not that I imagine it has any bearing on the reported problem.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 line-input question

2009-08-04 Thread James Sarte
No, it didn't go black... it went the polar opposite; as if I was looking at
a single 3khz wide signal!

I had to switch modes, then back to DATA-A for it the waterfall to go back
to normal.

Weird huh?

Also, not so much the level of operating ALC that I'm worrying about, but
why the change in how much line-gain is necessary now to achieve the same
results.  That's what's bugging me.

Cheers,
James K2QI



On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Julian, G4ILO julian.g4...@gmail.comwrote:



 I'm not sure what you mean by the waterfall turned into a solid signal.
 Did it go black, i.e. dead? One thing that springs to mind is an unreliable
 connection. Try waggling the cables around. I can't think of a software
 reason for what happened.

 By the way you don't need 6 bars on the ALC indication. 4 to 5 is
 sufficient. Not that I imagine it has any bearing on the reported problem.

 -
 Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
 * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
 * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
 * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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73 de James K2QI
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3: Wish List--Ad a General coverage mode for SW Listening

2009-08-04 Thread Joe Planisky
I solved this problem by programming the per-band memories (M1 - M4 on  
the front panel) with frequencies and modes in each band.  M1 is CW  
mode near the low end of the CW sub-band, M2 is CW near the high end  
of the CW sub-band, M3 for the low end of the phone segment, and M4  
for the high end of the phone band.  I do this on each ham band.   
Then, after tuning around the SW bands, I just hit MV, M1 and I'm  
back in the ham band on CW.

Not quite as easy as what you're suggesting, but it works for me.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On Aug 4, 2009, at 12:19 PM, N0SA wrote:


 I like to use my K3 for general coverage listening from time to  
 time. It is a
 great performer for this purpose.
 My only complaint is that after I tune around for awhile and then go  
 back to
 my Ham band memories they are all screwed up with out of band  
 settings and
 AM mode.
  It would be nice to maybe use a PF button to put it in General  
 coverage
 mode so it will not effect the Ham band usage.
 Larry Naumann  N0SA

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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Plus 1500 watts

2009-08-04 Thread Frank Ross W4NHJ
Guess what Lee, I have blown 3 serial ports.  Not sure why you would think 
high RF will blow a USB to serial converter and not a serial port.  FYI I 
built a cable using CAT 5 cable as suggested on this site and have not had a 
problem since.

Frank - W4NHJ

- Original Message - 
From: Lee Buller k...@swbell.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 9:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] USB to Serial Plus 1500 watts


 Ok guys

 Everything is groundedbut when you are pushing legal limit power in a 
 contest, I have blown up my USB to Serial Converter.  It just doesn't work 
 after the RF does its magic to it.  That is why I went to a serial 
 connection.  So, what have people experienced with their USB Converters 
 when running the big amp?

 Lee - K0WA


 The New Kansas QSO Party - August 29, Sat 9am-9pm and August 30 Sun 
 9am-3pm CDT
 More Info at:  http://www.ksqsoparty.org/

 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
 don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you 
 can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some 
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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

2009-08-04 Thread d.cutter
I went to one of those lectures by Prof Mike Underhill (G3L??) in front of his 
IEE peers who did not receive his wisdom too readily.  It seemed like a one-man 
campaign.  In essence he postulated that a mag loop was more like a short 
folded dipole and he showed why.  The usual calculated losses were insufficient 
to show why loops worked the way they did.

I once made a loop from 12ft x 4ft sheet aluminium with a huge capacitor 4ft x 
6inch vanes spot welded to the ends (that was an education in itself).  It was 
incredibly impractical, but I did it anyway.  I measured a 46dB front to side 
attenuation.  I scrapped it soon afterward.

David
G3UNA

 Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote: 
 Clearly there's a lot of interest in small transmitting loop antennas, so
 here are some links I've collected over the past several years that are
 still good detailing the efforts of several Hams (I checked them to make
 sure they still work ;-):
 
 Harry, SM0VPO, has several interesting designs including one built on a
 packing crate about which he wrote:
 
  I have been placed in a situation where a landlord denied permission to
 erect an antenna. Any form of antenna was unreasonable, even a white-painted
 broom handle caused interference!! My dartboard frame did not cause any
 interference at all... and so he evolved his novel and stealthy small loop
 transmitting antenna. 
 
 He also describes an 80 meter frame antenna. At the site below, click on
 Projects, then Antennas and then look at links under Antennas on the
 left side of the page for 80 meter frame ant and Packing crate ant. 
 
 http://web.telia.com/~u85920178/
 
 --
 
 David, PA3HBB/G0BZF has this nice page detailing his work with loops at:
 
 http://www.qsl.net/pa3hbb/magloop2.htm
 
 At the time he wrote the page he traveled a great deal and writes,  In
 order to fill my evenings with something other than foreign television (or
 drinking in the bar), I prefer to sit in my room and work the DX on the
 radio. Though this situation may not be typical of all of radio amateurs,
 the need for a small, effective and portable antenna will surely hit home
 with a number of them. 
 
 ---
 
 As a sign of the interest small transmitting loops generate, one fellow in
 Belgium created a very nice page detailing his loops and the work of others
 that ended up swamping him with e-mails, so it was relocated under a new
 URL:
 
 http://www.qsl.net/mnqrp/Loop/Mag_Loops.htm
 
 It details making loops as well as ideas for making your own low-loss
 capacitors to tune them with. 
 
 ---
 
 DJ3TZ built a small loop using copper tubing shown here:
 
 http://www.qsl.net/dj3tz/loop2.html 
 
 It has a nice fairly self-explanatory photo but most of the links on that
 page to other pages are now out of date.
 
 --
 
 
 73,
 
 Ron AC7AC
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB

2009-08-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 6:38 AM, Svend Spanget 
 span...@privat.dk wrote:
 
  I recently discovered the source of a very annoying noise in my K3. 
  When unplugging the USB cable from my USB hub the noise in the 
  receiver disappears. How do I get rid of this? I am using HRD, so a 
  connection to my PC is really needed...
  73's Svend, OZ7UV


One of the most common sources of USB device related noise is 
a bad/open shield on the USB cable.  First thing to try is a 
different USB cable.  Since you have a hub involved, don't 
forget to check the cable between the computer and the hub as 
well as the power supply for the hub.  Also make sure the 
computer is properly grounded to the station's common ground 
point and the shield has a good contact to the motherboard 
groundplane and the chassis. 

If the noise is from the RS-232 side of the USB to RS-232 
converter, place a jumper across the RF choke in pin 5 of 
the RS-232 connector (Elecraft RF Immunity Mod -
www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/ELECRAFT_Application_Note_Improving_the_Immunity_of_
the_Rear-Panel_KIO3_RS232_and_Audio_Connectors_to_RF.pdf. 
In addition, consider making your own RS-232 cable using 
K9YC's suggestions (CAT5 cable with pins 2,3,4  7 each 
on a separate pair with the other wire of each pair 
connected to the shell of the connector).  The K9YC cable 
makes the RS-232 signals balanced and cancels any radiated 
noise using the magic of twisted pairs. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Noise with KUSB

2009-08-04 Thread Svend Spanget
Thanks for the replies, all.
I'm using a laptop PC with 3 USB ports. With mouse, keyboard, harddisks
and other devices I am using 3 USB hubs
Plugging the cable from the K3 directly into a USB port on the PC does
not remove the noise. The hub doesn't have a PSU, but there are a lot of
small switch mode PSU's in the shack of course.
The noise is present regardless of HRD is running or not...
It is really not good to keep the log on paper. What can I do?
\Svend




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[Elecraft] FS: Weller soldering irons

2009-08-04 Thread Greg Beat
For Sale: Refurbished or NOS Weller soldering irons
These Weller irons must be used with the appropriate Weller base unit.
Consult the BAMA web site for Weller manuals for additional details, or feel 
free to ask me.

EC1201A with ETA tip and new silicon cord (ESD black) -- $70
TC-201P with PTA7 tip and new silicon cord (white) -- $50
TC-201P with PTA7 tip and original silicon cord (faded white) -- $40

PayPal, money order or checks accepted, with normal clearing period before 
shipment. 
Shipping will be charges USPS Flat Rate box, unless buyer prefers other method.

Inquiries: Contact w9gb at arrl dot net.

G. Beat
w9gb 
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[Elecraft] USB to Serial at 1500 watts Part II

2009-08-04 Thread Lee Buller
The USB to serial port stopped working for goodwhen I was on 80 meters.  
The way I new is
that N1MM Logger lost connection and could not reattach to the K3.  I
tried the K3 Utility...nada.  This only happened on 80 meters.  Yes, I
have a good RF ground.  Coax feed to the dipole.  Tuner.  etc.  All
grounded (RF) together ... bonded ...to a ground system that consist of
a 8 foot rod in the floor of the shackbonded to the towerbonded
to three other rodsbonded to the house.  Sill, I think it was RF
for some reason.  Now then, I have not had this happen to a simple RS232 cable 
from the Rig to the Puter. 

Could the electronics of the USB device be blown as the cable acts like an 
antenna?  I don't want to make a stink over this...just want to know peoples 
experience.

Also,
lets assume that RF can do weird thing...and everyone's set up or
circumstances are different...but I have done what the book suggests.

Lee - K0WA


 The New Kansas QSO Party - August 29, Sat 9am-9pm and August 30 Sun 9am-3pm 
CDT 
More Info at:  http://www.ksqsoparty.org/

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
Common Sense divine?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 line-input question

2009-08-04 Thread James Sarte
Well, got home and what do you know.  All is well again.  I fiddled around
with the mic selector in the firmware, switching it from line-in to FPL then
back to line-in and everything went back to the way it was last night.

scratches head

Okey dokey. I can live with that.

73 de James
-- 
73 de James K2QI
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Re: [Elecraft] USB to Serial at 1500 watts Part II

2009-08-04 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 Could the electronics of the USB device be blown as the cable 
 acts like an antenna?  I don't want to make a stink over 
 this...just want to know peoples experience.

If you can induce more than 10V P-P of RF on the cable between 
the computer and the USB to serial adapter, it is theoretically 
possible that you could damage the USB UART.  The fault mode 
would most likely be reverse polarity (below -.5V) on the 
5V line (supply) or the input data lines (USBDP and USBDM). 

 Sill, I think it was RF for some reason.  Now then, I have 
 not had this happen to a simple RS232 cable from the Rig 
 to the Puter. 

The RS-232 data lines are inherently better protected for 
induced RF since RS-232 specified for +/-25V but operating 
levels are generally +/- 10V or so.  To cause over/reverse 
voltage issues you would need to induce 20V P-P on the cable. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
  




 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lee Buller
 Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 7:32 PM
 To: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: [Elecraft] USB to Serial at 1500 watts Part II
 
 
 The USB to serial port stopped working for goodwhen I was 
 on 80 meters.  The way I new is that N1MM Logger lost 
 connection and could not reattach to the K3.  I tried the K3 
 Utility...nada.  This only happened on 80 meters.  Yes, I 
 have a good RF ground.  Coax feed to the dipole.  Tuner.  
 etc.  All grounded (RF) together ... bonded ...to a ground 
 system that consist of a 8 foot rod in the floor of the 
 shackbonded to the towerbonded to three other 
 rodsbonded to the house.  Sill, I think it was RF for 
 some reason.  Now then, I have not had this happen to a 
 simple RS232 cable from the Rig to the Puter. 
 
 Could the electronics of the USB device be blown as the cable 
 acts like an antenna?  I don't want to make a stink over 
 this...just want to know peoples experience.
 
 Also,
 lets assume that RF can do weird thing...and everyone's set 
 up or circumstances are different...but I have done what the 
 book suggests.
 
 Lee - K0WA
 



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[Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide

2009-08-04 Thread Doug Person
While I hang around the recovering from my back surgery and a nasty case 
of pneumonia, I've run out of projects that require melting solder.  
This  of course means its time to order another kit.  After spending 
hours (I have lots of time) researching kits, I, naturally, arrived back 
at Elecraft.com reading the QST reviews of the K1 and KX1.  I've built 
them both before and it will certainly be a joy once again regardless of 
which I choose.

It seems I just can't operate cw with the K3.  Not that it isn't 
fantastic - its just, well, too easy.  So another QRP radio is what I need.

I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I can't 
buy both.

I did look at a few single band kits.  But then I start pinging and 
ponging over 40 VS: 20.  I gotta have both.

So, what? flip a coin? Have my wife choose?

Dilemma.

73, Doug -- K0DXV
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Re: [Elecraft] Dilemma: K1 or KX1 - I can't decide

2009-08-04 Thread Andrew Moore
 I just can't seem to decide between the KX1 and the K1. And, no, I can't
buy both.

I went through the same motions.  Many times.  I'm about to go through it
again.

In a nutshell, IME:

K1
- analog soul  sound not found in 99% of radios. Can't explain it.
- insanely quiet receiver
- Simple platform, well laid out internally
- lends itself well to mods, has room for tweaking in the chassis
- internal battery option is fiddly and cumbersome

KX1:
- by far the number one best feature is easy of deployment, or rephrased,
minimum time between I think I want to get on the air and actually
getting on the air, especially when equipped with a BNC to dual banana jack
connector.
- minimum space.  Truly a take it with you everywhere rig.

In summary, IMHO, figure out what you want to do with the rig.  If you plan
to use it as a bedside rig or field / picnic table use, K1.  If you plan to
use it for carrying all the time so you can set it up and get on the air in
the shortest amount of time possible, such as during lunch breaks at work,
etc..., KX1.

I want both!

..
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Re: [Elecraft] Magnetic Loops

2009-08-04 Thread Dave Sergeant
Mike Underhill G3LHZ had some good ideas but his ideas that the 
theoretical loop equations were not valid were totally wrong. When I 
was active on 136kHz some years ago I used a large vertical loop and 
got reasonable results - in a QTH where I was severely restricted in 
what I could use on those frequencies. At one time I more or less 
proved to myself that the loop was performing pretty much how the 
theory predicted and G3LHZ's suggestions that it should be 100 times 
better (or whatever) were complete rubbish. You can find more 
information on the 136kHz pages on my website, with calculations on 
both the traditional loop equations and G3LHZ's (very old pages, not 
updated for yonks, but for some reason still seem the most visited 
pages on the whole site...).

73 Dave G3YMC

On 4 Aug 2009 at 21:57, d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:

 I went to one of those lectures by Prof Mike Underhill (G3L??) in front
 of his IEE peers who did not receive his wisdom too readily.  It seemed
 like a one-man campaign.  In essence he postulated that a mag loop was
 more like a short folded dipole and he showed why.  The usual calculated
 losses were insufficient to show why loops worked the way they did.
 
 I once made a loop from 12ft x 4ft sheet aluminium with a huge capacitor
 4ft x 6inch vanes spot welded to the ends (that was an education in
 itself).  It was incredibly impractical, but I did it anyway.  I
 measured a 46dB front to side attenuation.  I scrapped it soon
 afterward.
 
 David
 G3UNA


http://www.davesergeant.com

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