Re: [Elecraft] DIY DSP Rev D

2010-01-03 Thread Mike Cox
I guess another option could be to take your old board out of the radio 
and send it to Elecraft for a factory update and wait for it's return. 
Of course this would render the radio inoperable for that period of time 
but at least you would know that your serial number vintage DSP board 
matched your serial numbered radio. I think the current board swap 
program makes a lot of sense but maybe that's just me.

73,
Mike AB9V


Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Merv,

 I don't understand that logic.  See Eric's post from 9:08 PM EST today.
 What is wrong with getting a fully updated DSP board with a full 
 warranty to put into your SN 3000 K3.  Who cares what the serial number 
 of the K3 that board came from, it is a *new* board after it has been 
 upgraded and fully tested - there is no difference.  The board PC traces 
 and the solder do not wear out.

 If yours has been on order for 5 weeks, it should arrive soon.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Merv Schweigert wrote:
   
 Bob Naumann wrote:
 
 Who said they might even be reworked boards?

 On what do you base this claim?


   
   
 Somewhere either on this list or the elecraft site or ?? I read that
 the boards were shipping up to 4 to 6 weeks late because of the
 slow return of the old ones for rework. So yes it appears your getting 
 a reworked board from someones
 return.
 So I would assume you could get serial number 20 board for
 your number 3000 radio?   If wrong would appreciate being
 corrected.
 Mine has been on order for about 5 weeks or so now. 73 Merv KH7C
   
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 DSP LPF daughterboard - What is an artifact and where can you find them?

2010-01-03 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Keith Hamilton-3 wrote:
 
 I would imagine there are a lot of us who hear the artifacts but just
 don't 
 realize it? This would account for the undefinable  fatigue some talk
 about.
 
You can see these artifacts with a program like Spectran, but they are
only present when modulation is present and they are at a very low level,
probably no worse than the THD of budget consumer audio products. As someone
said to me in an email recently, they probably wouldn't be an issue if
people used communications headphones and speakers with their radios instead
of hi-fi models.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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[Elecraft] Wanted: Options for Elecraft K3 (Filters, ATU...)

2010-01-03 Thread A. Spitzer
Hello!

I am looking for some options for my K3. KAT3 Tuner, KBPF3  General Coverage RX 
Bandpass Module,  KDVR3  Digital Voice Recorder,  KTCXO3-1  TCXO,  KXV3A RX 
Ant., IF Out and Xverter Interface (last Version), KFL3A-2.8K  2.8 kHz, 8-pole 
filter, KFL3A-400  400 Hz, narrow 8-pole  filter,  KFL3A-250  250 Hz, narrow 
8-pole  filter etc..

Thanks

73s Alex NH7VW   
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Re: [Elecraft] Rig Rumbles?

2010-01-03 Thread juergen
Hi Gary

And who can forget all the arguments on the Icom  group web pages. It sounded 
like what has gone on here. The Icom no rumble deniers  were out in force.  
Anyway  Icoms have no rumbles or IMD  now and have good inband IMD performance.

The only thing I dont like about the Icoms now is their transmit sound.  They 
have such a robotic SSB sound thats very easy for me to detect. It reminds of  
the  Daleks on the Dr Who TV show. The 756PRO3 and 7600 have this sound, not 
the 7700 and 7800.

I agree with your sentiments on the K3, people should just get with the program 
and go along with the K3 ride. DSP code and hardware is not carved in rock!


John



--- On Sat, 1/2/10, Gary and Kathleen Pearse pea...@gci.net wrote:

 From: Gary and Kathleen Pearse pea...@gci.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Rig Rumbles?
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Saturday, January 2, 2010, 9:31 PM
 Earlier, rumbles were mentioned
 along with artifacts and all  
 manner of audible squeaks and chirps generally hidden in
 the K3. I  
 thought I had finally fully recovered from my IC-756
 experience, and  
 now this issue reminds me of that old unpleasantness.
 
 Background: I like ICOMs and have owned or operated very
 many  
 including the all 756 series through Pro II. My early Pro
 had low  
 level rumbles/artifacts, barely audible in quality
 headsets on a  
 quiet band. I reported same to my Dealer, ICOM, and finally
 the ARRL  
 during their initial testing. Read their review for a
 discussion of  
 that discovery.
 
 It was really there but at a low level, and thanks to a
 couple of  
 gifted HAMs, the source was discovered and remedies
 suggested. ICOM  
 denied the issue in written and spoken coms to me and
 others (I sent  
 mine in for an ICOM checkup, and no problems were noted).
 They later  
 fixed it by offering us a new improved model that was
 rumble-free,  
 the new Pro II. It was an expensive repair to say the least
 versus  
 potentially what could have been a few changes in circuit
 components.
 
 Patience, and reconsider any suspicions surrounding
 Elecraft's  
 continuing development policy. Their improved DSP board is
 a  
 relatively free gift compared with buying a complete new
 radio as  
 ICOM once offered the amateur community. Thanks to it's
 design, the  
 K3 platform is simply a work in progress.
 
 I'm looking forward to additional upgrades by Elecraft as
 time goes  
 by and the K3 evolves. That's one reason why I decided to
 support our  
 American company with my $. Thanks for your time.
 
 73, Gary NL7Y
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 DSP LPF daughterboard - What is an artifact and where can you find them?

2010-01-03 Thread Brendan Minish
there are few if any pairs of 'communications' phones that have
significant attenuation above 10Khz yet retain good flat frequency
response over the range we are interested in (~ 100Hz to 4KHz )

the artefacts are aliasing products centred around 12Khz, since these
are not harmonically related to the fundamental audio the ear is pretty
sensitive to them, even though they are at least 60dB lower than the
wanted audio.

As I have pointed out before, It's subtle, you are not going to hear
this at all if you have HF hearing loss,  the D to A chip is performing
per spec and the K3 prior to this change is already better than a lot of
the competition.  

73
Brendan EI6IZ 

On Sun, 2010-01-03 at 03:20 -0800, Julian, G4ILO wrote:

 Keith Hamilton-3 wrote:
  
  I would imagine there are a lot of us who hear the artifacts but just
  don't 
  realize it? This would account for the undefinable  fatigue some talk
  about.
  
 You can see these artifacts with a program like Spectran, but they are
 only present when modulation is present and they are at a very low level,
 probably no worse than the THD of budget consumer audio products. As someone
 said to me in an email recently, they probably wouldn't be an issue if
 people used communications headphones and speakers with their radios instead
 of hi-fi models.
 
 -
 Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
 * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
 * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
 * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html
 

-- 
73
Brendan EI6IZ 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-03 Thread pd0psb

Hello Dick,

I was immediately thinking of you when 500kc permission in NL got through,
it must feel very special to key-down on your old band :-)

A good option for 500kc is the Juma kit:
http://www.nikkemedia.fi/juma-tx500/

With a few mods (extra i/o's) it might be an elegant solution with the K3.

Happy 2010!
73'
Paul
PD0PSB




PA3CW wrote:
 
 Hello k3 Nabblers,
 
 I was happy  surprized that now in The Netherlands we are also allowed to
 use 501 - 504 kHz in an experimental phase. As ex Radio Officer it has
 been around 25 years ago since my last transmission in this band!  I was
 happy to discover that my K3 is very ok for receive on 500 kHz.   For
 transmitting the 0,5 mW on the transperter output needs some work.  We are
 allowed here to transmit with 5 W  EIRP so i  think i can use some output
 power in order to radiate this amount of power in a relatively short
 antenna.  Who has made an amplifier for 500 kHz including ant switching
 circuit?  I am very interested in a design that i can copy and build
 myself.  Maybe also the team of Elecraft is working on something, however
 seen how busy they are with other things i dont think this has priority. 
 Who can tell me their experience with the K3 on 500?
 
 Many thanks and a wonderful 2010
 Dick PA3CW
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer

2010-01-03 Thread Bill W5WVO
Indeed! And at the rate you're STRIKING it rich, you might end up
with enough to buy a SPARE! I've heard that this is an excellent
arrangement when operating SPLIT.

Sorry... :-)

Bill W5WVO


- Original Message - 
From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
Cc: 'Reflector Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer


 I think it will bowl you over...

 73, Mike NF4L

 Bruce McLaughlin wrote:
  It sounds like a P3 may be right up your alley . . . so to
speak,
 
  Bruce - W8FU
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Tellefsen
  Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 6:19 PM
  To: Reflector Elecraft
  Subject: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer
 
  On Christmas Eve morning I bowled in a tournament, and won
$45.
  Then today I bowled in another tournament and won $55.  So now
  I'm $100 closer to a P3.  I may have it paid for by the time
it's released
  :-)
  73, Bob N6WG
  The Little Station with Attitude
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 DSP LPF daughterboard - What is an artifact and where can you find them?

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Brendan,

Not to be argumentative, but some with HF hearing loss may be bothered 
by this distortion even though it is low level and is not in the range 
of conscious hearing.  When I first became aware of my HF hearing loss, 
I found that I was increasingly irritated by low grade audio devices 
because of the THD.  It seems I can 'sense' the distortion even though I 
cannot actually hear in that range.  Strange as it may seem, I went on a 
quest for better fidelity in sound as my hearing loss became worse.  I 
have mentioned this phenomenon to several knowledgeable dealers in audio 
equipment as well as my audiologist and they have confirmed what I have 
observed.  If the hearing loss is across the full spectrum, the 
increased perception of distortion is not present.  My lower range 
hearing remains normal, and my audiologist tells me that is an unusual 
condition, so that may have something to do with my perceptions.  I will 
put the LPF on my K3, 'just in case'.

73,
Don W3FPR.

Brendan Minish wrote:
 As I have pointed out before, It's subtle, you are not going to hear
 this at all if you have HF hearing loss,  the D to A chip is performing
 per spec and the K3 prior to this change is already better than a lot of
 the competition.  
   

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-03 Thread Wes Stewart
Another link: http://www.w1vd.com/137-500KWTX.html

Wes N7WS

--- On Sun, 1/3/10, pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com wrote:

From: pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  K3 on 500 kHz
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 6:35 AM


Hello Dick,

I was immediately thinking of you when 500kc permission in NL got through,
it must feel very special to key-down on your old band :-)

A good option for 500kc is the Juma kit:
http://www.nikkemedia.fi/juma-tx500/

With a few mods (extra i/o's) it might be an elegant solution with the K3.

Happy 2010!
73'
Paul
PD0PSB




PA3CW wrote:
 
 Hello k3 Nabblers,
 
 I was happy  surprized that now in The Netherlands we are also allowed to
 use 501 - 504 kHz in an experimental phase. As ex Radio Officer it has
 been around 25 years ago since my last transmission in this band!  I was
 happy to discover that my K3 is very ok for receive on 500 kHz.   For
 transmitting the 0,5 mW on the transperter output needs some work.  We are
 allowed here to transmit with 5 W  EIRP so i  think i can use some output
 power in order to radiate this amount of power in a relatively short
 antenna.  Who has made an amplifier for 500 kHz including ant switching
 circuit?  I am very interested in a design that i can copy and build
 myself.  Maybe also the team of Elecraft is working on something, however
 seen how busy they are with other things i dont think this has priority. 
 Who can tell me their experience with the K3 on 500?
 
 Many thanks and a wonderful 2010
 Dick PA3CW
 
 





  
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Building a K1 no side tone

2010-01-03 Thread Rick/WA6ES

I should of said I am on Page 36 of the Alignment and Test Part 1 so I think
that there is no output, I will check the board anyway, you never know. At
first I did find some points not soldered and took care of them. Still
checking and killing brain cells.
  Not sure if the display goes blank when you are transmitting or still
displays the frequency that you are on. I was thinking ground or short but
the backlight stayed on.

Rick/WA6ES


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Rick,
 
 An additional thought - that blank display when keyed could be an 
 indicator of a bad solder connection in the DC supply section of the 
 K1.  You are apparently capable of searching through the schematic, so 
 start at the 12 volt input and check all the points up through the 
 regulators for good solder connections.  Re-flow those connections with 
 a hot (750 deg F) soldering iron and see if you find any improvement.
 
 My guess, one or more of the voltages is reading fine in receive, but 
 the higher current draw when the key is depressed (transmit mode) is 
 causing one of the voltages to sag to less than normal - a bad solder 
 connection could cause that.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-03 Thread pd0psb

This one will certainly be able to deliver 5W EIRP, Wes :-)
Nice design!

73'
Paul
PD0PSB

 

Another link: http://www.w1vd.com/137-500KWTX.html

Wes N7WS

A good option for 500kc is the Juma kit:
http://www.nikkemedia.fi/juma-tx500/
With a few mods (extra i/o's) it might be an elegant solution with the K3.


-- 
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Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Building a K1 no side tone

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick,

The K1 display changes to a simulated bargraph to indicate the power 
output when keyed.  You will not have any power output at this stage of 
assembly, so your statement of a 'blank display' may be just fine.  
Since the backlight stays on during keying, I should retract my 
statement about a power problem.

The most likely reason for no sidetone is soldering - check to see if 
all points are well soldered and none skipped.  You do have the AF Gain 
advanced do you not?  The K1 sidetone varies with the AF Gain setting.
The source of the sidetone is the output from the DAC on the Front 
Panel, U2 pin 1.  If you have an oscilloscope, you could check to see if 
you have an audio signal there when the K1 is keyed.  Lacking a 'scope, 
connect a pair of leads to an audio amplifier input (line in of a 
computer soundcard or an MP3/CD player) and probe at that point to see 
if there is any sound - it might not sound great, but you will know if 
the signal is present.
The signal leaves the front panel via J1 pin 5.  Look at the schematic 
for the RF Board sheet 1 in the lower left corner and you will see the 
components that the sidetone signal (XFIL/TONE) are applied to.  It 
makes it way to the AF Amp through the AF Gain control.  You should hear 
some 'white noise' sound when the AF Gain is advanced.  If the audio is 
totally silent, you may have a problem with the AF Amp rather than the 
sidetone.

73,
Don W3FPR

Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 I should of said I am on Page 36 of the Alignment and Test Part 1 so I think
 that there is no output, I will check the board anyway, you never know. At
 first I did find some points not soldered and took care of them. Still
 checking and killing brain cells.
   Not sure if the display goes blank when you are transmitting or still
 displays the frequency that you are on. I was thinking ground or short but
 the backlight stayed on.

 Rick/WA6ES
   

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[Elecraft] radio control and CW interface

2010-01-03 Thread Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Hi

 

HNY!!

 

In my TS850 I have a W1GEE interface connected in my LPT port to send CW and
a G4ZLP Cat interface to do radio control, with N1MM and Win-Test.

 

With the K3, wich cables interface may I use to send CW and to control the
radio with N1MM and Win-Test?

 

Thanks!

 

73,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer

2010-01-03 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Oww!  Oww!  Oww!
My head is starting to split.
Enough already :-)

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net
To: n...@nf4l.com
Cc: 'Reflector Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 5:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer


 Indeed! And at the rate you're STRIKING it rich, you might end up
 with enough to buy a SPARE! I've heard that this is an excellent
 arrangement when operating SPLIT.
 
 Sorry... :-)
 
 Bill W5WVO
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
 Cc: 'Reflector Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 5:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer
 
 
 I think it will bowl you over...

 73, Mike NF4L

 Bruce McLaughlin wrote:
  It sounds like a P3 may be right up your alley . . . so to
 speak,
 
  Bruce - W8FU
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
 Tellefsen
  Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 6:19 PM
  To: Reflector Elecraft
  Subject: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer
 
  On Christmas Eve morning I bowled in a tournament, and won
 $45.
  Then today I bowled in another tournament and won $55.  So now
  I'm $100 closer to a P3.  I may have it paid for by the time
 it's released
  :-)
  73, Bob N6WG
  The Little Station with Attitude
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-03 Thread Brendan Minish
The thing to watch with class D amps is that the Keying waveform will be
significantly modified (Rise and fall Times) and this could lead to
keyclicks by distorting the K3's keying waveform .
Mostly Class D amps are keyed at the Finals for this reason.

I am using my K3 on 500KHz in conjunction with an old NDB amplifier.
this AMP was low level Carrier + sideband followed by linear PA stages
to 100W. I use it as a linear for my K3 

Do take special care to protect the Transverter RX input to the K3 if
operating on 500 KHz as it's not as comprehensively protected from
strong signals as the the RX antenna input   

73
Brendan EI6IZ (some of us in EI are on 501 -504 KHz ) 

On Sun, 2010-01-03 at 06:38 -0800, Wes Stewart wrote:
 Another link: http://www.w1vd.com/137-500KWTX.html
 
 Wes N7WS
 
 --- On Sun, 1/3/10, pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 From: pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  K3 on 500 kHz
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 6:35 AM
 
 
 Hello Dick,
 
 I was immediately thinking of you when 500kc permission in NL got through,
 it must feel very special to key-down on your old band :-)
 
 A good option for 500kc is the Juma kit:
 http://www.nikkemedia.fi/juma-tx500/
 
 With a few mods (extra i/o's) it might be an elegant solution with the K3.
 
 Happy 2010!
 73'
 Paul
 PD0PSB
 
 
 
 
 PA3CW wrote:
  
  Hello k3 Nabblers,
  
  I was happy  surprized that now in The Netherlands we are also allowed to
  use 501 - 504 kHz in an experimental phase. As ex Radio Officer it has
  been around 25 years ago since my last transmission in this band!  I was
  happy to discover that my K3 is very ok for receive on 500 kHz.   For
  transmitting the 0,5 mW on the transperter output needs some work.  We are
  allowed here to transmit with 5 W  EIRP so i  think i can use some output
  power in order to radiate this amount of power in a relatively short
  antenna.  Who has made an amplifier for 500 kHz including ant switching
  circuit?  I am very interested in a design that i can copy and build
  myself.  Maybe also the team of Elecraft is working on something, however
  seen how busy they are with other things i dont think this has priority. 
  Who can tell me their experience with the K3 on 500?
  
  Many thanks and a wonderful 2010
  Dick PA3CW
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
   
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73
Brendan EI6IZ 

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[Elecraft] Bird Wattmeters

2010-01-03 Thread David Robertson
Working in the electronic calibration field for some years I have found that 
any mechanical meter movement has it's greatest accuracy at full scale only. 
the meter movement's accuracy diminishes as you go down in scale. So if a Bird 
Wattmeter is calibrated for 5% accuracy at full scale then it's accuracy will 
be reduced as the meter deflection is reduced. That is why for greatest 
accuracy with a Bird Wattmeter measuring 9 watts (for example) should be using 
a 10 watt slug for greatest meter deflection.

Digital readouts will always have the accuracy of the measuring circuitry + or 
- one count of the least segnifigent digit of the instrument or computer 
readout no matter how much of the selected range scale is used. Having said 
that you will have the most accuracy when approaching the upper scale range ( 
example 90 watts on the 100 watt range and not 9 watts on the 100 watt range).

See Below:

73 and Happy New Year
Dave KD1NA

Bird wattmeter's, the spec is 5% OF THE 
FULL SCALE READING - and that is ONLY right after calibration.  That 
specification says that if a BIRD wattmeter has been recently calibrated 
and handled carefully afterwards, with a 100 watt slug, it can have an 
error of 5 watts - and that applies to *anywhere* on the scale.

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Re: [Elecraft] W2 Wattmeter

2010-01-03 Thread Bob Naumann
While Bird watt meters are rugged, revered and are the de-facto standard
watt meters in both commercial and amateur circles, their accuracy leaves a
lot to be desired. Unless recently calibrated, and used under specific
circumstances (ambient temperature) their use should be more properly
defined as relative output indicators. Look closely and you'll see that
their accuracy is listed as +/- some percentage of a full scale reading for
the slug you are using. With a 2500w slug, you could be hundreds of watts
off and not know it. Granted, in amateur use, absolute accuracy really does
not matter, but just keep this in mind when measuring what you see with your
W2 or any other modern digital wattmeter when compared to a Bird.

Just because they read differently, there's nearly no justification to think
the Bird is correct and your new wattmeter is not.

73,

Bob W5OV


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of NZ0T
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 7:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] W2 Wattmeter


I'm very happy with my W2.  There was an issue with an intermittent in the
sensor cable but that was quickly resolved.  It seems accurate enough to me
on a subjective basis - I have no Bird to compare it to.  As far as
resolution goes the computer display resolution does rely on LED's and is a
continuous bar with a switchable peak indication.  This is only the 2nd
version of the diplay software and I'm sure it will continue to improve.  I
have a friend that has the LP-100A and it's a really nice meter but I'm not
sure I want to pay $120 more for it.

73 Bill NZ0T

Phil amp; Debbie Salas wrote:
 
 Those are good points about the trigger and perception of accuracy of the
 W2.  I have yet to see field test data of the W2 in regards to accuracy of

 the
 Wattmeter and SWR indications.
 
 According to the manual the W2 has an accuracy of +- 0.5dB typical
 (nothing 
 about worst-case).  This is 10-12% accuracy.  Not as good as the 
 PowerMaster/LP-100A/Telepost class of wattmeters that use NIST-traceable
 cal 
 equipment (which should get you more like 3-5% accuracy).  Of course,
 those 
 are $100-$150 more expensive than the W2.  If you use the W2 LED display, 
 your perceived error could be greater than the 10-12%.  As an example, if 
 you really have 100 watts and the W2 reads it 1/2-dB low, then possibility

 only the 80-watt LED would light.  So this would give you a 20% reading 
 error.
 
 Maybe the ARRL will do a review sometime soon.
 
 Phil - AD5X 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Building a K1 no side tone

2010-01-03 Thread Rick/WA6ES

Well Don, I went back checked everything, every hole and every solder fleck.
Cleaned up pad solder joints and just verified all, did I mention I missed a
couple of holes. Plugged in the power and earbuds and I heard noise, tried
the keyer and it was making noise, backwards but dits and dahs. I figure the
world would switch to left handed being normal, maybe next year. 
Anyway now I can say I am off to page 38 and winding that L1. I just have to
remember this is my training for making the K2 later this year. With the K2
I will slow it down a notch and read twice before doing anything.
Thanks Again
Rick/WA6ES


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Rick,
 
 The K1 display changes to a simulated bargraph to indicate the power 
 output when keyed.  You will not have any power output at this stage of 
 assembly, so your statement of a 'blank display' may be just fine.  
 Since the backlight stays on during keying, I should retract my 
 statement about a power problem.
 
 The most likely reason for no sidetone is soldering - check to see if 
 all points are well soldered and none skipped.  You do have the AF Gain 
 advanced do you not?  The K1 sidetone varies with the AF Gain setting.
 The source of the sidetone is the output from the DAC on the Front 
 Panel, U2 pin 1.  If you have an oscilloscope, you could check to see if 
 you have an audio signal there when the K1 is keyed.  Lacking a 'scope, 
 connect a pair of leads to an audio amplifier input (line in of a 
 computer soundcard or an MP3/CD player) and probe at that point to see 
 if there is any sound - it might not sound great, but you will know if 
 the signal is present.
 The signal leaves the front panel via J1 pin 5.  Look at the schematic 
 for the RF Board sheet 1 in the lower left corner and you will see the 
 components that the sidetone signal (XFIL/TONE) are applied to.  It 
 makes it way to the AF Amp through the AF Gain control.  You should hear 
 some 'white noise' sound when the AF Gain is advanced.  If the audio is 
 totally silent, you may have a problem with the AF Amp rather than the 
 sidetone.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 on 500 kHz

2010-01-03 Thread Wes Stewart
Hi Paul,

Well that will certainly depend upon antenna efficiency, but QRO makes the 
antenna much easier and the power company happier :-)

Happy New Year

Wes

--- On Sun, 1/3/10, pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com wrote:

From: pd0psb p.s.bijp...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]   K3 on 500 kHz
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, January 3, 2010, 8:02 AM


This one will certainly be able to deliver 5W EIRP, Wes :-)
Nice design!

73'
Paul
PD0PSB

 

Another link: http://www.w1vd.com/137-500KWTX.html

Wes N7WS




  
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Re: [Elecraft] Bird Wattmeters

2010-01-03 Thread AD6XY

Bird Trulines were designed a long time ago. Yes they are good but not that
good. Certainly not a calibration standard. With a pure signal they give
good results within their specification.

With this type of meter it is very important to make sure there are no
harmonics in the signal as the element can give large errors if there are. 
Even harmonics that are many dB below the fundemental can have a significant
effect on the readings. This feature is probably behind some of the inflated
VHF amplifier power output claims in the past. In extreme cases it is
possible to exceed 100% amplifier efficiency according to the meter. 

Mike



kd1na wrote:
 
 Working in the electronic calibration field for some years I have found
 that any mechanical meter movement has it's greatest accuracy at full
 scale only. the meter movement's accuracy diminishes as you go down in
 scale. So if a Bird Wattmeter is calibrated for 5% accuracy at full scale
 then it's accuracy will be reduced as the meter deflection is reduced.
 That is why for greatest accuracy with a Bird Wattmeter measuring 9 watts
 (for example) should be using a 10 watt slug for greatest meter
 deflection.
 
 Digital readouts will always have the accuracy of the measuring circuitry
 + or - one count of the least segnifigent digit of the instrument or
 computer readout no matter how much of the selected range scale is used.
 Having said that you will have the most accuracy when approaching the
 upper scale range ( example 90 watts on the 100 watt range and not 9 watts
 on the 100 watt range).
 
 See Below:
 
 73 and Happy New Year
 Dave KD1NA
 
 Bird wattmeter's, the spec is 5% OF THE 
 FULL SCALE READING - and that is ONLY right after calibration.  That 
 specification says that if a BIRD wattmeter has been recently calibrated 
 and handled carefully afterwards, with a 100 watt slug, it can have an 
 error of 5 watts - and that applies to *anywhere* on the scale.
 
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[Elecraft] Hi Q versus Vertical

2010-01-03 Thread Frank MacDonell
I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo
development. I presently own a k3/10.

Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR
Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience
with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for
your time and expertise.

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] Building a K1 no side tone

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick, that is great news.  There is a menu setting to reverse the 
paddles for us lefties.

73,
Don W3FPR

Rick/WA6ES wrote:
 Well Don, I went back checked everything, every hole and every solder fleck.
 Cleaned up pad solder joints and just verified all, did I mention I missed a
 couple of holes. Plugged in the power and earbuds and I heard noise, tried
 the keyer and it was making noise, backwards but dits and dahs. I figure the
 world would switch to left handed being normal, maybe next year. 
 Anyway now I can say I am off to page 38 and winding that L1. I just have to
 remember this is my training for making the K2 later this year. With the K2
 I will slow it down a notch and read twice before doing anything.
 Thanks Again
 Rick/WA6ES


 Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
   
 Rick,

 The K1 display changes to a simulated bargraph to indicate the power 
 output when keyed.  You will not have any power output at this stage of 
 assembly, so your statement of a 'blank display' may be just fine.  
 Since the backlight stays on during keying, I should retract my 
 statement about a power problem.

 The most likely reason for no sidetone is soldering - check to see if 
 all points are well soldered and none skipped.  You do have the AF Gain 
 advanced do you not?  The K1 sidetone varies with the AF Gain setting.
 The source of the sidetone is the output from the DAC on the Front 
 Panel, U2 pin 1.  If you have an oscilloscope, you could check to see if 
 you have an audio signal there when the K1 is keyed.  Lacking a 'scope, 
 connect a pair of leads to an audio amplifier input (line in of a 
 computer soundcard or an MP3/CD player) and probe at that point to see 
 if there is any sound - it might not sound great, but you will know if 
 the signal is present.
 The signal leaves the front panel via J1 pin 5.  Look at the schematic 
 for the RF Board sheet 1 in the lower left corner and you will see the 
 components that the sidetone signal (XFIL/TONE) are applied to.  It 
 makes it way to the AF Amp through the AF Gain control.  You should hear 
 some 'white noise' sound when the AF Gain is advanced.  If the audio is 
 totally silent, you may have a problem with the AF Amp rather than the 
 sidetone.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 
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Re: [Elecraft] Hi Q versus Vertical

2010-01-03 Thread Duncan Carter
See:

http://vibrotek.com/w5dc/w5dcant.html

It's not exactly what you asked for but it might give you some useful 
ideas.  The WARC bands and 80 meters are not  shown in these early 
pictures.  The upper half of 80 meters is a wire that's parallel to the 
wire until it reaches the pole where it then goes up and over the 
townhouse to a short fiberglass pole mounted in a vent pipe and then 
down toward an enclosed patio.  The wire is bare, stranded, #26 copper 
clad steel and seems to survive well ( winds to 80 mph so fan plus 
several snow storms up to 2 feet) as long as you don't kink the wire 
during assembly.  The lower half of the 80 meter wire is parallel to the 
40 wire and includes a coil under the deck at it's midpoint.  It's been 
good for 112 dxcc entities since summer; best/longest distance on 80 so 
far is DS1REE.

Dunc, W5DC

Frank MacDonell wrote:
 I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo
 development. I presently own a k3/10.

 Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR
 Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience
 with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for
 your time and expertise.

   

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Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board

2010-01-03 Thread Conway Yee
 Does this go back to the older manuals?  I think I used Manual Ver C (no
 100% certain, though) when I built K2 #1103 -- is it something I should know
 about and check?

Both the rev G manual on the web and the rev G printed manual has the same
problem.

tnx.
Conway Yee


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] radio control and CW interface

2010-01-03 Thread Bill W4ZV



Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
  
 With the K3, wich cables interface may I useto send CW and to control the
 radio with N1MM and Win-Test?
 

I don't know anything about Wintest but I'm using K1EL's Winkeyer USB with
N1MM.

http://k1el.tripod.com/WKUSB.html

The advantage of this keyer versus computer keying of the K3 directly is:

1.  CW timing is perfect...no choppiness.
2.  Keying can be interrupted immediately with either ESC on the keyboard or
by touching the paddles.

Cables needed are:

USB cable from computer to Winkeyer (supplied with Winkeyer).
KEY1 cable from Winkeyer to K3 KEY IN (standard dual phono).
PTT1 cable from Winkeyer to K3 PTT IN (standard dual phono).
KEY OUT from K3 to amplifier (standard dual phono).

Winkeyer can be used either stand alone (with internal memories) or with
computer (with N1MM memories).  It can also be used with two rigs in N1MM
SO2R mode.

73,  Bill  W4ZV


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Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Conway,

 From an earlier manual, there are .001 capacitors on the RF Baord at 
C1, C2, C9, C17, C26 and C27 in addition to the ones that do appear in 
the manual.
For the list of .01 capacitors, add C52, C53, C55, C58, and C61.  Those 
additions should make the numbers right.

The assembly instructions are correct, it is only the parts listing that 
has these omissions.  I have been told that it happened due to a 
formatting glitch.

73,
Don W3FPR

Conway Yee wrote:
 Continuing my build of the base K2, I have identified two of the missing
 designators in the Appendix A, page 1 0.001 and 0.01 capacitors.  C1 and
 C2 are 0.001 (102) capacitors as installed on p. 36, right column, 3rd
 item. C1, C2 are NOT listed in the Appendix A pages 1-3.

 For the 0.001 uF (102) entry, 28 capacitors are in inventory with 22
 designators listed.  Specifically C1 and C2 are not listed.  Is there
 a list of the remaining capacitors (4) which are 0.001 uF, likely C37?

 After accounting for the Errata, at total of 38 0.01 uF (103) capacitors
 are listed.  There are 43 present in inventory the RF board bags for a
 total of 5 missing designators.  The last item, C175 is followed by a
 comma. Further there is a suggestion of a series of 5 commas above the
 first line.  Is there a list of the 5 missing capacitors, likely C52
 or C175?

 Thanks.
 Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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Re: [Elecraft] [HAM] Hi Q versus Vertical

2010-01-03 Thread Mike K2MK

Hi Frank:

Lots of K3 users have the SteppIR BigIR vertical. I know this from being a
member of both Yahoo groups. You might want to pose the same question on the
SteppIR Yahoo group. 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SteppIR/

And I just thought you would like to know that SteppIR has just announced
the addition of an optional coil to the SmallIR that will make that antenna
work on 80 through 6 meters as does the BigIR. The SmallIR is half the
height of the BigIR. Just a bit more stealthy. Maybe it can be made to look
like a flagpole.

73,
Mike K2MK


From Frank KD8FIP:

I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo
development. I presently own a k3/10.

Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR
Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience
with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for
your time and expertise.

Frank KD8FIP
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Hi-Q-versus-Vertical-tp4246657p4247140.html
Sent from the [HAM] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you

2010-01-03 Thread Alan Price

Let me build a K2, or any other Elecraft kit, for you.  You will receive a 
brand new radio with the options you want.  I have built very close to 300 K2's 
to date.  My prices are reasonable.  Please respond directly, not on the 
reflector.

 

73

Alan

W1HYV
  
_
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread Dave Perry N4QS
Tony,

Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the 
stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without thinking from 
the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack.  The 
speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor 
failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had to send my 
K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output transistor.  It was 
under warranty so they repaired it for free.  While the rig was in the shop, 
I had them add the sub RX, digital voice recorder, and the IF Out interface. 
So they came out okay on the deal.

But I learned my lesson -- do not plug a mono speaker into the stereo 
receptacle.  It is clearly labeled as Stereo on the back, but you have to be 
looking at it from that direction!  Even the manual shows it as stereo.

Dave, N4QS

- Original Message - 
From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:25 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem


 Maybe someone has had this problem before and can save me time
 troubleshooting?



 Everything was fine yesterday. This morning (rig is always ON) headphones
 work fine. But nothing out of either internal or external speaker when I
 unplugged the headphones. I now have to turn Config: SPKR + PH to YES to
 listen out of either an external or internal speaker. But now I can't turn
 off the speakers when plugging in the headphones.



 Any ideas what could have happened?



 Tnx for any feedback.

 N2TK, Tony



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread Keith Hamilton
Doesn't the manual state that a mono plug is ok? I better unplug my speaker.
I must have read wrong. Thanks a lot for the post!

Keith W8GX


On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, Dave Perry N4QS wrote:

 Tony,
 
 Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the 
 stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without thinking from 
 the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack.  The 
 speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor 
 failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had to send my 
 K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output transistor.  It was 
 under warranty so they repaired it for free.  While the rig was in the shop, 
 I had them add the sub RX, digital voice recorder, and the IF Out interface. 
 So they came out okay on the deal.
 
 But I learned my lesson -- do not plug a mono speaker into the stereo 
 receptacle.  It is clearly labeled as Stereo on the back, but you have to be 
 looking at it from that direction!  Even the manual shows it as stereo.
 
 Dave, N4QS
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
 To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:25 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem
 
 
 Maybe someone has had this problem before and can save me time
 troubleshooting?
 
 
 
 Everything was fine yesterday. This morning (rig is always ON) headphones
 work fine. But nothing out of either internal or external speaker when I
 unplugged the headphones. I now have to turn Config: SPKR + PH to YES to
 listen out of either an external or internal speaker. But now I can't turn
 off the speakers when plugging in the headphones.
 
 
 
 Any ideas what could have happened?
 
 
 
 Tnx for any feedback.
 
 N2TK, Tony
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread Steve Ellington
The manual says: (page 20)
A stereo plug is recommended..If you only have a mono plug, set CONFIG: 
SPKRS to 1 and disable right -channel audio
So yes it says mono is ok. But it doesn't say you'll blow your transistors. 
You gotta find that out by other means, some of which aren't pleasant.
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: Keith Hamilton tu...@zoominternet.net
To: Dave Perry N4QS n...@comcast.net
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem


 Doesn't the manual state that a mono plug is ok? I better unplug my 
 speaker.
 I must have read wrong. Thanks a lot for the post!

 Keith W8GX


 On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, Dave Perry N4QS wrote:

 Tony,

 Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the
 stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without thinking 
 from
 the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack. 
 The
 speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor
 failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had to send 
 my
 K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output transistor.  It 
 was
 under warranty so they repaired it for free.  While the rig was in the 
 shop,
 I had them add the sub RX, digital voice recorder, and the IF Out 
 interface.
 So they came out okay on the deal.

 But I learned my lesson -- do not plug a mono speaker into the stereo
 receptacle.  It is clearly labeled as Stereo on the back, but you have to 
 be
 looking at it from that direction!  Even the manual shows it as stereo.

 Dave, N4QS

 - Original Message - 
 From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
 To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:25 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem


 Maybe someone has had this problem before and can save me time
 troubleshooting?



 Everything was fine yesterday. This morning (rig is always ON) 
 headphones
 work fine. But nothing out of either internal or external speaker when I
 unplugged the headphones. I now have to turn Config: SPKR + PH to YES to
 listen out of either an external or internal speaker. But now I can't 
 turn
 off the speakers when plugging in the headphones.



 Any ideas what could have happened?



 Tnx for any feedback.

 N2TK, Tony



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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.124/2598 - Release Date: 01/03/10 
04:41:00

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread Tom Hammond
Older K3's were susceptible to damage if a MONO plug was inserted into
the STEREO jack on the back panel.  Subsequent to that, there was both
a hardware and a software mod to new(er) K3s to eliminate the threat of
damage from that happening.

UNfortunately, I cannot quote book, verse, and phrase of exactly when
this 'factory' change occurred.  I believe it's spoken to in the K3
Mods section of the Elecraft web site... QRX... lemme check... OK...
here's the info from http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm and down
at K3 AF Output Mod Kit. Rev C:

   This modification is needed for all K3s shipped approximately
   before 01/12/09 containing either a Revision XB or Revision
   A KIO3 board. You must inspect the KIO3 board to see whether
   the modification has been made. Modified boards will include
   the leaded resistors. You can see one of the resistors by
   removing the top cover and inspecting the side of the KIO3
   board facing away from the rear panel. Photos of what the added
   resistors look like are in the document.

Hope this helps.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


At 15:12 01/03/2010, Keith Hamilton wrote:
Doesn't the manual state that a mono plug is ok? I better unplug my speaker.
I must have read wrong. Thanks a lot for the post!

Keith W8GX


On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, Dave Perry N4QS wrote:

  Tony,
 
  Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the
  stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without 
 thinking from
  the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack.  The
  speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor
  failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had 
 to send my
  K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output 
 transistor.  It was
  under warranty so they repaired it for free.  While the rig was 
 in the shop,
  I had them add the sub RX, digital voice recorder, and the IF Out 
 interface.
  So they came out okay on the deal.
 
  But I learned my lesson -- do not plug a mono speaker into the stereo
  receptacle.  It is clearly labeled as Stereo on the back, but you 
 have to be
  looking at it from that direction!  Even the manual shows it as stereo.
 
  Dave, N4QS
 
  - Original Message -
  From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
  To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:25 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem
 
 
  Maybe someone has had this problem before and can save me time
  troubleshooting?
 
 
 
  Everything was fine yesterday. This morning (rig is always ON) headphones
  work fine. But nothing out of either internal or external speaker when I
  unplugged the headphones. I now have to turn Config: SPKR + PH to YES to
  listen out of either an external or internal speaker. But now I can't turn
  off the speakers when plugging in the headphones.
 
 
 
  Any ideas what could have happened?
 
 
 
  Tnx for any feedback.
 
  N2TK, Tony
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread Keith
Already changed my speaker to a stereo plug!  I'm not
going to take chances! Again thanks a lot!

Keith W8GX


- Original Message - 
From: Steve Ellington n...@carolina.rr.com
To: Keith Hamilton tu...@zoominternet.net; Dave Perry N4QS 
n...@comcast.net
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem


 The manual says: (page 20)
 A stereo plug is recommended..If you only have a mono plug, set 
 CONFIG: SPKRS to 1 and disable right -channel audio
 So yes it says mono is ok. But it doesn't say you'll blow your 
 transistors. You gotta find that out by other means, some of which aren't 
 pleasant.
 Steve
 N4LQ
 n...@carolina.rr.com
 - Original Message - 
 From: Keith Hamilton tu...@zoominternet.net
 To: Dave Perry N4QS n...@comcast.net
 Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 4:12 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem


 Doesn't the manual state that a mono plug is ok? I better unplug my 
 speaker.
 I must have read wrong. Thanks a lot for the post!

 Keith W8GX


 On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, Dave Perry N4QS wrote:

 Tony,

 Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into 
 the
 stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without thinking 
 from
 the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack. 
 The
 speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor
 failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had to 
 send my
 K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output transistor.  It 
 was
 under warranty so they repaired it for free.  While the rig was in the 
 shop,
 I had them add the sub RX, digital voice recorder, and the IF Out 
 interface.
 So they came out okay on the deal.

 But I learned my lesson -- do not plug a mono speaker into the stereo
 receptacle.  It is clearly labeled as Stereo on the back, but you have 
 to be
 looking at it from that direction!  Even the manual shows it as stereo.

 Dave, N4QS

 - Original Message - 
 From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
 To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:25 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem


 Maybe someone has had this problem before and can save me time
 troubleshooting?



 Everything was fine yesterday. This morning (rig is always ON) 
 headphones
 work fine. But nothing out of either internal or external speaker when 
 I
 unplugged the headphones. I now have to turn Config: SPKR + PH to YES 
 to
 listen out of either an external or internal speaker. But now I can't 
 turn
 off the speakers when plugging in the headphones.



 Any ideas what could have happened?



 Tnx for any feedback.

 N2TK, Tony



 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.124/2598 - Release Date: 
 01/03/10 04:41:00

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread N2TK, Tony
Hi Dave,
Tnx for the info, but I don't think that is my problem. I have been using a
stereo plug in the K3 for over a year without a problem. And my external
speaker and internal speaker work fine if I turn on SPKR + PH. I just can't
get the internal or external speaker to work when there is no headphones
plugged in and SPKR + PH is OFF.
This is one of those problems where the night before it was fine and the
next morning it was not working. Power had not been turned off. In fact the
only time I normally turn off power is when I reboot after upgrading the
firmware.

73,
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: Dave Perry N4QS [mailto:n...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 3:58 PM
To: N2TK, Tony; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

Tony,

Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the 
stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without thinking from

the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack.  The 
speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor 
failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had to send my

K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output transistor.  It was

under warranty so they repaired it for free.  While the rig was in the shop,

I had them add the sub RX, digital voice recorder, and the IF Out interface.

So they came out okay on the deal.

But I learned my lesson -- do not plug a mono speaker into the stereo 
receptacle.  It is clearly labeled as Stereo on the back, but you have to be

looking at it from that direction!  Even the manual shows it as stereo.

Dave, N4QS

- Original Message - 
From: N2TK, Tony tony@verizon.net
To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 11:25 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem


 Maybe someone has had this problem before and can save me time
 troubleshooting?



 Everything was fine yesterday. This morning (rig is always ON) headphones
 work fine. But nothing out of either internal or external speaker when I
 unplugged the headphones. I now have to turn Config: SPKR + PH to YES to
 listen out of either an external or internal speaker. But now I can't turn
 off the speakers when plugging in the headphones.



 Any ideas what could have happened?



 Tnx for any feedback.

 N2TK, Tony



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 Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Speaker/headphone problem

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
And I might add that the first paragraph of that same application note 
explains the 'why' - I quote:
This modification protects the K3's audio amplifier if either speaker 
output is connected to a short circuit or very
low impedance load. Two 470 ohm, 1/4 watt resistors are added to the 
output circuit to suppress potentially
damaging voltage spikes that might otherwise occur.

A mono jack *will* short out the right channel.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Hammond wrote:
 Older K3's were susceptible to damage if a MONO plug was inserted into
 the STEREO jack on the back panel.  Subsequent to that, there was both
 a hardware and a software mod to new(er) K3s to eliminate the threat of
 damage from that happening.

 UNfortunately, I cannot quote book, verse, and phrase of exactly when
 this 'factory' change occurred.  I believe it's spoken to in the K3
 Mods section of the Elecraft web site... QRX... lemme check... OK...
 here's the info from http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm and down
 at K3 AF Output Mod Kit. Rev C:

This modification is needed for all K3s shipped approximately
before 01/12/09 containing either a Revision XB or Revision
A KIO3 board. You must inspect the KIO3 board to see whether
the modification has been made. Modified boards will include
the leaded resistors. You can see one of the resistors by
removing the top cover and inspecting the side of the KIO3
board facing away from the rear panel. Photos of what the added
resistors look like are in the document.

 Hope this helps.

 73,

 Tom Hammond   N0SS


 At 15:12 01/03/2010, Keith Hamilton wrote:
   
 Doesn't the manual state that a mono plug is ok? I better unplug my speaker.
 I must have read wrong. Thanks a lot for the post!

 Keith W8GX


 On Jan 3, 2010, at 3:57 PM, Dave Perry N4QS wrote:

 
 Tony,

 Same thing happened to me when I plugged my Kenwood mono speaker into the
 stereo speaker jack on the back of the K3.  I did this without 
   
 thinking from
 
 the front of the radio when I was rearranging equipment in the shack.  The
 speaker worked for a couple of days until the audio output transistor
 failed.  I could then only hear audio from the headphones.  I had 
   
 to send my
 
 K3 back to Elecraft in order to replace the audio output 
   
 transistor.  It was
 
 under warranty so they repaired it for free.  

__
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[Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Tom Hammond
Man... what a BIG discussion... whew!

Early on with my K3, I found that having two speakers (L  R) plugged into the
rear panel SPKR jack of the K3 was turning out to be a real P.I.T.A.

I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied) leads
which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of all
of the other wires back there as well, and BOTH leads attached to a single
stereo plug, inserted into the back of the K3.

When I wanted to move the speakers, or to take them with me for a trip or demo
I had to first unplug the plug from the back of the K3 and then 'snake' at
least one of the speakers up/down in/out of all the other accumulated wires
before I could manage to resurrect both speakers fro in back of the rig.  It
got to be a really tiring process... really quick!

I decided to fix that problem.

I designed a small PC board on which two (2) stereo phone jacks were mounted,
and then a 7 length of 2-conductor (w/shield) cable from the PC board to a
single stereo plug which plugged into the back of the K3.  The jacks on the
PC board were wired such that the RING on each jack was left unconnected and
so only the TIP and SLEEVE were connected to the cable. This way, I can plug
EITHER stereo OR mono plugs into the jacks on the PC board and not have to
worry about shorting anything on the K3 out to ground.  Additionally, and this
is the best part for me... now, when I need to remove the speakers, all I have
to do is to unplug each speaker from the PC board and INDIVIDUALLY unwrap any
wires before pulling it to the front of the desk... no longer do I have to
man-handle a big honkin' speaker, trying to unwind it from the rats nest of
wires in back of the rig.  I also have a quick and easy to unplug both speakers
from the back of the K3 if I need to do that as well.

If you like my idea, visit my web site at:  http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html
and drop down to the line titled: External (Dual) Speaker Splitter 
for the K3.

If there's enough interest, I might consider making some PC boards for sale,
otherwise, I'll be happy to make the artwork available for you to make your
own PC boards IF you're interested in doing so.  If someone else wants to make
the boards, I'll be happy to give them the artwork, too.

73,

Tom   N0SS

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[Elecraft] Blank EC-2 Enclosure

2010-01-03 Thread Ci Jones
I was going to mount my KPA/100 in a seperate enclosure, but never have 
gotten around to it. If anyone on the reflector needs one and wants to 
buy it from me, I will sell it for $50.00 via Paypal including shipping 
CONUS


Ci Jones, WU7R
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Tom,

A great idea (why didn't I think of that).  I don't cart my K3 around 
much, but I use 2 speakers for AFX.  It is not 'nice' having both 
speakers tied to a single stereo jack.
Another solution, although not as elegant, is to use a Y-adapter.  If it 
is a commonly manufactured adapter, the ones that adapt 1/8 inch stereo 
jacks will not work because the plug and two jacks are simply wired in 
parallel.  The Y-adapter with a 1.8 inch stereo plug to 2 RCA jacks will 
work, but it requires RCA plugs on the speakers (or that addition of  
2-RCA plug 0to 1/8 inch jack adapters.  One example is from Radio Shack:
   Y-Adapter, Phono Jacks to Stereo 1/8 Plug
  *Model:* 274-269 | *Catalog #:* 274-369
Tom, I will take one of your board if you decide to make up some 
'kitchen boards'.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Hammond wrote:
 Man... what a BIG discussion... whew!

 Early on with my K3, I found that having two speakers (L  R) plugged into the
 rear panel SPKR jack of the K3 was turning out to be a real P.I.T.A.

 I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied) leads
 which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of all
 of the other wires back there as well, and BOTH leads attached to a single
 stereo plug, inserted into the back of the K3.

 When I wanted to move the speakers, or to take them with me for a trip or demo
 I had to first unplug the plug from the back of the K3 and then 'snake' at
 least one of the speakers up/down in/out of all the other accumulated wires
 before I could manage to resurrect both speakers fro in back of the rig.  It
 got to be a really tiring process... really quick!

 I decided to fix that problem.

 I designed a small PC board on which two (2) stereo phone jacks were mounted,
 and then a 7 length of 2-conductor (w/shield) cable from the PC board to a
 single stereo plug which plugged into the back of the K3.  The jacks on the
 PC board were wired such that the RING on each jack was left unconnected and
 so only the TIP and SLEEVE were connected to the cable. This way, I can plug
 EITHER stereo OR mono plugs into the jacks on the PC board and not have to
 worry about shorting anything on the K3 out to ground.  Additionally, and this
 is the best part for me... now, when I need to remove the speakers, all I have
 to do is to unplug each speaker from the PC board and INDIVIDUALLY unwrap any
 wires before pulling it to the front of the desk... no longer do I have to
 man-handle a big honkin' speaker, trying to unwind it from the rats nest of
 wires in back of the rig.  I also have a quick and easy to unplug both 
 speakers
 from the back of the K3 if I need to do that as well.

 If you like my idea, visit my web site at:  http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html
 and drop down to the line titled: External (Dual) Speaker Splitter 
 for the K3.

 If there's enough interest, I might consider making some PC boards for sale,
 otherwise, I'll be happy to make the artwork available for you to make your
 own PC boards IF you're interested in doing so.  If someone else wants to make
 the boards, I'll be happy to give them the artwork, too.

 73,

 Tom   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board

2010-01-03 Thread Conway Yee
  From an earlier manual, there are .001 capacitors on the RF Baord at
 C1, C2, C9, C17, C26 and C27 in addition to the ones that do appear in
 the manual.

Thanks. This completes my inventory of 0.001 capacitors.

 For the list of .01 capacitors, add C52, C53, C55, C58, and C61.  Those
 additions should make the numbers right.

This list of 5 capacitors is already in the Errata.  This brings the
inventory to 38 of 43 capacitors.  There are still 5 capacitors missing.
Assuming that only one line was cut off at the top, the remaining
capacitors are missing from the last line (i.e. C175).  The line
containing C175 is terminated by a comma.

 The assembly instructions are correct, it is only the parts listing that
 has these omissions.  I have been told that it happened due to a
 formatting glitch.

I agree that it is likely an error in the parts listing.  The word
processor likely leaves only a certain amount of space which is exceeded
by having 28, 43 entries.  I prefer LaTeX which calculates ALL of these
entries on the fly, giving much better results.

tnx.
Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Brett Howard
I solved this issue by installing a male RCA connector on each of my
speakers.  Then I bought a long RCA to 1/4 in headphone cable that
didn't have a strain relief type thing on it.  The strain relieve that
I'm talking about are the ones that don't allow the cable to split.  I
then ripped the two cables apart so that each channel could go different
directions.  

I then when its time to go pull the cable off at the speakers and then
pull the RCA ends into where the radio is and extract the cable.  Heck
if I really wanted to make travel easy (and I may end up doing this)...
I'll just buy another cable then all I have to do is pull the speakers
off with their little pig tails and they'll plug right into the travel
cable (which can probably be a shorter version of what is in the
shack)...

~Brett (KC7OTG)

On Sun, 2010-01-03 at 16:09 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote: 
 Man... what a BIG discussion... whew!
 
 Early on with my K3, I found that having two speakers (L  R) plugged into the
 rear panel SPKR jack of the K3 was turning out to be a real P.I.T.A.
 
 I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied) leads
 which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of all
 of the other wires back there as well, and BOTH leads attached to a single
 stereo plug, inserted into the back of the K3.
 
 When I wanted to move the speakers, or to take them with me for a trip or demo
 I had to first unplug the plug from the back of the K3 and then 'snake' at
 least one of the speakers up/down in/out of all the other accumulated wires
 before I could manage to resurrect both speakers fro in back of the rig.  It
 got to be a really tiring process... really quick!
 
 I decided to fix that problem.
 
 I designed a small PC board on which two (2) stereo phone jacks were mounted,
 and then a 7 length of 2-conductor (w/shield) cable from the PC board to a
 single stereo plug which plugged into the back of the K3.  The jacks on the
 PC board were wired such that the RING on each jack was left unconnected and
 so only the TIP and SLEEVE were connected to the cable. This way, I can plug
 EITHER stereo OR mono plugs into the jacks on the PC board and not have to
 worry about shorting anything on the K3 out to ground.  Additionally, and this
 is the best part for me... now, when I need to remove the speakers, all I have
 to do is to unplug each speaker from the PC board and INDIVIDUALLY unwrap any
 wires before pulling it to the front of the desk... no longer do I have to
 man-handle a big honkin' speaker, trying to unwind it from the rats nest of
 wires in back of the rig.  I also have a quick and easy to unplug both 
 speakers
 from the back of the K3 if I need to do that as well.
 
 If you like my idea, visit my web site at:  http://www.n0ss.net/index_k3.html
 and drop down to the line titled: External (Dual) Speaker Splitter 
 for the K3.
 
 If there's enough interest, I might consider making some PC boards for sale,
 otherwise, I'll be happy to make the artwork available for you to make your
 own PC boards IF you're interested in doing so.  If someone else wants to make
 the boards, I'll be happy to give them the artwork, too.
 
 73,
 
 Tom   N0SS
 
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Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Conway,

 From the Rev F manual, the bottom of the list of .01 uF capacitors is 
C175, C181, C183, C184 and C186.

It looks like the height of the column stayed the same, but the width 
was reduced - the number of capacitors per line is greater in the Rev F 
manual than in the Rev G.

73,
Don W3FPR

Conway Yee wrote:
  From an earlier manual, there are .001 capacitors on the RF Baord at
 C1, C2, C9, C17, C26 and C27 in addition to the ones that do appear in
 the manual.
 

 Thanks. This completes my inventory of 0.001 capacitors.

   
 For the list of .01 capacitors, add C52, C53, C55, C58, and C61.  Those
 additions should make the numbers right.
 

 This list of 5 capacitors is already in the Errata.  This brings the
 inventory to 38 of 43 capacitors.  There are still 5 capacitors missing.
 Assuming that only one line was cut off at the top, the remaining
 capacitors are missing from the last line (i.e. C175).  The line
 containing C175 is terminated by a comma.

   
 The assembly instructions are correct, it is only the parts listing that
 has these omissions.  I have been told that it happened due to a
 formatting glitch.
 

 I agree that it is likely an error in the parts listing.  The word
 processor likely leaves only a certain amount of space which is exceeded
 by having 28, 43 entries.  I prefer LaTeX which calculates ALL of these
 entries on the fly, giving much better results.

 tnx.
 Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.124/2598 - Release Date: 01/03/10 
 04:41:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board

2010-01-03 Thread Mike Harris
There was a time, maybe 8-9 years ago when life was thought to be 
too short for inventories, many just jumped in and got on with it, I 
certainly did.  100% success.

All this chatter about truncated lines is just getting in the way of 
building.  And another thing, real men wind torroids ;-)  Unless you 
have a medical condition or other disability.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO
K2 #1400 + everything except the battery
K3 #345 loaded

- Original Message - 
From: Conway Yee y...@bronze.lcs.mit.edu
To: d...@w3fpr.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; supp...@elecraft.com
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board


  From an earlier manual, there are .001 capacitors on the RF 
 Baord at
 C1, C2, C9, C17, C26 and C27 in addition to the ones that do 
 appear in
 the manual.

 Thanks. This completes my inventory of 0.001 capacitors.

 For the list of .01 capacitors, add C52, C53, C55, C58, and C61. 
 Those
 additions should make the numbers right.

 This list of 5 capacitors is already in the Errata.  This brings 
 the
 inventory to 38 of 43 capacitors.  There are still 5 capacitors 
 missing.
 Assuming that only one line was cut off at the top, the remaining
 capacitors are missing from the last line (i.e. C175).  The line
 containing C175 is terminated by a comma.

 The assembly instructions are correct, it is only the parts 
 listing that
 has these omissions.  I have been told that it happened due to a
 formatting glitch.

 I agree that it is likely an error in the parts listing.  The word
 processor likely leaves only a certain amount of space which is 
 exceeded
 by having 28, 43 entries.  I prefer LaTeX which calculates ALL of 
 these
 entries on the fly, giving much better results.

 tnx.
 Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Julian, G4ILO



Tom Hammond-2 wrote:
 
 I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied)
 leads
 which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of
 all
 of the other wires back there as well, and BOTH leads attached to a single
 stereo plug, inserted into the back of the K3.
 
 When I wanted to move the speakers, or to take them with me for a trip or
 demo
 I had to first unplug the plug from the back of the K3 and then 'snake' at
 least one of the speakers up/down in/out of all the other accumulated
 wires
 before I could manage to resurrect both speakers fro in back of the rig. 
 It
 got to be a really tiring process... really quick!
 
 I decided to fix that problem.
 
 I designed a small PC board on which two (2) stereo phone jacks were
 mounted,
 and then a 7 length of 2-conductor (w/shield) cable from the PC board to
 a
 single stereo plug which plugged into the back of the K3.
 

Been there, done that, etc. I think practically every socket on the back of
my K3 has something plugged into it.

But either I'm overlooking something, or you don't need to make up a special
connector. You can buy little adapters that have one 3.5mm stereo jack
output and two 3.5mm stereo sockets for input. I think they are made to
allow two people to listen simultaneously to an MP3 player.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Back-Panel-Phones-Jack-my-solution-tp4247468p4247705.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Iain MacDonnell - N6ML
On Sun, Jan 3, 2010 at 3:41 PM, Julian, G4ILO julian.g4...@gmail.com wrote:



 Tom Hammond-2 wrote:

 I had two speakers, with somewhat lengthy (though folded up and tied)
 leads
 which extended left and right across the back of the K3, wound in/out of
 all
 of the other wires back there as well, and BOTH leads attached to a single
 stereo plug, inserted into the back of the K3.

 When I wanted to move the speakers, or to take them with me for a trip or
 demo
 I had to first unplug the plug from the back of the K3 and then 'snake' at
 least one of the speakers up/down in/out of all the other accumulated
 wires
 before I could manage to resurrect both speakers fro in back of the rig.
 It
 got to be a really tiring process... really quick!

 I decided to fix that problem.

 I designed a small PC board on which two (2) stereo phone jacks were
 mounted,
 and then a 7 length of 2-conductor (w/shield) cable from the PC board to
 a
 single stereo plug which plugged into the back of the K3.


 Been there, done that, etc. I think practically every socket on the back of
 my K3 has something plugged into it.

 But either I'm overlooking something, or you don't need to make up a special
 connector. You can buy little adapters that have one 3.5mm stereo jack
 output and two 3.5mm stereo sockets for input. I think they are made to
 allow two people to listen simultaneously to an MP3 player.

What you're missing is that that would still cause the ring to be
shorted to ground if a mono plug was inserted, and both speakers would
still get the left channel, whereas Tom's solution (presumably)
connects the ring of the K3 connector to the tip of the right
connector on his little box.

~Iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Julian,

What is missing there is that with those adapters, one must wire one 
speaker to the tip and the other to the ring to achieve dual speaker 
reception.
It would be best to have both speakers wired the same - only to the tip 
and sleeve - Tom's homebuilt adapter does that.

73,
Don W3FPR

Julian, G4ILO wrote:
 But either I'm overlooking something, or you don't need to make up a special
 connector. You can buy little adapters that have one 3.5mm stereo jack
 output and two 3.5mm stereo sockets for input. I think they are made to
 allow two people to listen simultaneously to an MP3 player.

   

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Re: [Elecraft] [HAM] Hi Q versus Vertical

2010-01-03 Thread Maarten van Rossum
The antenna by itself maybe small, but keep in mind that in order to make it
function properly, you need radials and lots of 'em.
If you mount the vertical on the ground, radial length is less important. If
you mount is with elevated radials you need at least 2 tuned radials for
each band to make it work.
But you can find that info on the SteppIR Website as well so you probably no
this already ;-)

73, Maarten
PD2R

2010/1/3 Mike K2MK k...@comcast.net


 Hi Frank:

 Lots of K3 users have the SteppIR BigIR vertical. I know this from being a
 member of both Yahoo groups. You might want to pose the same question on
 the
 SteppIR Yahoo group.
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SteppIR/

 And I just thought you would like to know that SteppIR has just announced
 the addition of an optional coil to the SmallIR that will make that antenna
 work on 80 through 6 meters as does the BigIR. The SmallIR is half the
 height of the BigIR. Just a bit more stealthy. Maybe it can be made to look
 like a flagpole.

 73,
 Mike K2MK


 From Frank KD8FIP:

 I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo
 development. I presently own a k3/10.

 Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR
 Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience
 with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for
 your time and expertise.

 Frank KD8FIP
 --
 View this message in context:
 http://n2.nabble.com/Hi-Q-versus-Vertical-tp4246657p4247140.html
 Sent from the [HAM] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread John H Gibson
Hi Tom,

Doesn't the Radio Shack 274-375 stereo adapter at $4.50 do the same thing as 
your circuit board? See

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102691

Best wishes and 73,

John, no8v
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Re: [Elecraft] [HAM] Hi Q versus Vertical

2010-01-03 Thread KG3VTomZ
I have the Hi-Q 4/80 screwdriver antenna and have only used it mobile so  
far. It is a great antenna as far as mobile operation goes. I may use it  
parked in the driveway as one of my fixed antennas for some upcoming  
contests.You could use the Hi-Q antenna with radials or just leave it on  
your vehicle, then you don't need the radials. I don't know if that is  
convenient for you (location of the vehicle relative to the operating  
position), but it is an option.

Good luck,

Tom, KG3V


On Jan 3, 2010 7:00pm, Maarten van Rossum pd2r.maar...@gmail.com wrote:
 The antenna by itself maybe small, but keep in mind that in order to make  
 it

 function properly, you need radials and lots of 'em.

 If you mount the vertical on the ground, radial length is less important.  
 If

 you mount is with elevated radials you need at least 2 tuned radials for

 each band to make it work.

 But you can find that info on the SteppIR Website as well so you probably  
 no

 this already ;-)



 73, Maarten

 PD2R



 2010/1/3 Mike K2MK k...@comcast.net



 

  Hi Frank:

 

  Lots of K3 users have the SteppIR BigIR vertical. I know this from  
 being a

  member of both Yahoo groups. You might want to pose the same question on

  the

  SteppIR Yahoo group.

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SteppIR/

 

  And I just thought you would like to know that SteppIR has just  
 announced

  the addition of an optional coil to the SmallIR that will make that  
 antenna

  work on 80 through 6 meters as does the BigIR. The SmallIR is half the

  height of the BigIR. Just a bit more stealthy. Maybe it can be made to  
 look

  like a flagpole.

 

  73,

  Mike K2MK

 

 

  From Frank KD8FIP:

 

  I am looking for an antenna to work 6 thru 80 meters in a condo

  development. I presently own a k3/10.

 

  Stealth is a very strong consideration. It seems that a SteppIR

  Vertical or Hi Q antenna would make sense. Does anyone have experience

  with these two antennas for this type of application? Thanks you for

  your time and expertise.

 

  Frank KD8FIP

  --

  View this message in context:

  http://n2.nabble.com/Hi-Q-versus-Vertical-tp4246657p4247140.html

  Sent from the [HAM] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

I will try responding in case Tom is not monitoring right now.  That 
adapter wires all the tips together and all the rings together.
Tom's adapter wires the tip of the plug to the tip of one of the jacks, 
and wires the ring of the plug to the TIP of the other jack.
I do not know of any adapter that does what Tom's does.  It allows 
either a mono or stereo plug to be inserted into the jacks with the 
speaker wired only to the tip and the sleeve.  One speaker will carry 
the left channel info and the other speaker will carry the right channel.

73,
Don W3FPR

John H Gibson wrote:
 Hi Tom,

 Doesn't the Radio Shack 274-375 stereo adapter at $4.50 do the same thing as 
 your circuit board? See

 http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102691
   

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[Elecraft] A K3 Happy Note

2010-01-03 Thread Jim Harris

Hi to all,

Just finished the ARRL RTTY Roundup with my somewhat new K3.  It hauled the 
load this time without a drop of sweat.  In early December while in another 
RTTY contest it developed Hi Cur warnings.  That with a DSP board being DOA 
when I built the radio in September and the noise issue I was ready to heave it 
out the window.

Elecraft in an amazing show of Customer Support took the radio into their care 
and found a defective final transistor in the LPA causing the Hi Cur warning.  
With all the discussion about noise issues here on the reflector I've found a 
combination of settings that makes the noise much more tolerable.  Oh BTW, they 
replaced the DOA DSP board pronto.

After a rough start I'm looking forward a long and happy coexistence with my 
K3.  My personal thanks to all the gang at Elecraft for their support when the 
future of this radio wasn't looking too bright.  As a show of my gratitude and 
confidence in the radio I've ordered a KDVR3 to replace my external DVK.

Have a good day and 73.

Jim, W0EM


  
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Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board

2010-01-03 Thread Conway Yee
On Sun, 3 Jan 2010, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 It looks like the height of the column stayed the same, but the width
 was reduced - the number of capacitors per line is greater in the Rev F
 manual than in the Rev G.

Taking your hint, I downloaded the Rev D manual. Assuming no signficant
changes in parts in the interim with Rev G, all parts are accounted for!

tnx.
Conway Yee

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Back Panel Phones Jack... my solution...

2010-01-03 Thread Tom Hammond
Hi Julian

Been there, done that, etc. I think practically every socket on the back of
my K3 has something plugged into it.

But either I'm overlooking something, or you don't need to make up a special
connector. You can buy little adapters that have one 3.5mm stereo jack
output and two 3.5mm stereo sockets for input. I think they are made to
allow two people to listen simultaneously to an MP3 player.

Agreed... BUT... how many of them ISOLATE the RING so it doesn't 
short out when
a mono plug is plugged into the STEREO jack?  THAT is what I was trying to
avoid as much as providing two individual connections... with what I have, you
can plug in either a stereo plug (connected to a SINGLE spkr), or a mono plug
(connected to a single spkr) and still not have to worry about the long mono
sleeve shorting out the RING on the K3's input.

The TIP  GND of the K3 PLUG connects to the LEFT spkr, and the RING  GND
connect to the RIGHT spkr. But the RINGs on BOTH of the INPUT jacks are not
connected to anything.

73,

Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] PLL Reference Oscillator Question

2010-01-03 Thread bviets

Hello Don,

Hope you had a good New Year's.

I replaced X1 and subsequently D16 and D17, with no luck, still reading
12650.  Getting a little  frustrated.  Any suggestions?  
73,
Byron
N6UI 


bviets wrote:
 
 Don,
 Well everything checked out, i can't find any fault with the installation
 of those components.  Looks like I need to order some parts, unless you
 can think of anything else I should check.  If I haven't mentioned it,
 thank you for all of your help and attention.  
 73,
 Byron
 N6UI
 
 
 
 Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
 
 Byron,
 
 Fine on all that, so far so good - next is to check L31, X1, R21, D18, 
 C84 and C85 for good soldering, and make certain D16 and D17 are 
 oriented correctly.
 If nothing is found awry, I would arbitrarily replace X1 as the first 
 step and after than D16 and D17.  Remember that this is just like a VXO 
 circuit, no real 'magic', you add capacitance (that is what the 
 varactors should be doing at lower voltages) and the frequency shifts 
 downward.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 bviets wrote:
 Don,
 I also took the liberty to do the checks on: RP2 pin 2, and the cathodes
 on
 D16 and D17 and they all behaved like U6 pin 1: 7.4 and zero when
 switching
 between BAND+ and BAND-.
 73,
 Byron
 N6UI
   

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Re: [Elecraft] base K2 RF board

2010-01-03 Thread Conway Yee
VP8NO writes:
There was a time, maybe 8-9 years ago when life was thought to be
too short for inventories, many just jumped in and got on with it, I
certainly did.  100% success.

Yes.  I know.  Given the instructions, I figured MOST would just jump in
and start building.  As for me, I prefer to understand the complete
inventory.  To each his own.

I inventory the ENTIRE kit and designate the destination of each
and every part.  I have each part individually taped onto paper.
All inconsistencies MUST be understood before proceeding.  This is how I
worked out that there were two capacitors short on in the control panel
bag and extra in the RF bag.  I am also short a few plastic washers.

Before soldering each part, I check its identification AGAIN.

I believe, however, erroneously that this decreases my risk of putting the
wrong part in the wrong location.

All this chatter about truncated lines is just getting in the way of
building.

Perhaps but it keeps me sane and keeps my anal nature from getting the
better of me!!

And another thing, real men wind torroids ;-)  Unless you
have a medical condition or other disability.

I fully intend to wind my own toroids.  My only condition relevant to
ham radio is being a bit too anal :)

tnx.
Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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[Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 | KXAT1 ATU questions

2010-01-03 Thread Daniel Paul Perez
My KX-1 has KXB3080, KXAT1, KXPD1 options.  I am having trials and 
tribulations with the KXAT1 tuning my KX-1.

My configuration was Cobra Senior Ultralight up 60-66’ at one end 45-50’ 
at the other with center up about 55-60’ | 81 feet of 450 ohm ladder 
line runs that runs about 1’ foot through a casement window | Balun 
Designs 4:1 4113t current balun | 3’ coax with 239 – 239 connectors 
[703+] OR an amphenol 239/BNC adapter [KX-1].

In this config my Icom 703Plus tuned all bands and forward power was a 
bit diminished.  The Elecraft KX-1 would not tune 40M only.  KX1 is 
getting respectable power and swr on 80, 30 and 20 and 40 will throw a 
high power value and r9.9.

Getting some advice from this reflector (Thanks to Dale - WC7S in WY) 
and the antenna manufacturer I then switched out the 3 foot coax with a 
25 foot coax between the balun and transceiver.

In this config my Icom 703Plus tunes all bands at near SWR 1.0 and 
forward power is exactly at what is set.  The 703Plus works like a champ 
and even better in this config.  Now the Elecraft KX1 has high SWR r9.9 
on 80, 40, 30 and reads between r3-r5?? on 20M with respectable power 
levels on all bands.  I would have thought the KX1 to perform better as 
well?  Now the 703 is perfect and the KX1 is down on all 4 bands?

Could someone help me understand why this might now be?

I realize the KX1 tuner is smaller capacity than the Icom internal tuner 
– but this antenna configuration is quite respectable.  I read many 
anecdotes of the sorts of “I threw a wire up in a tree with my KX1 and 
it tunes and works lots and lots of countries.”  This isn’t exactly 
throwing a wire in a tree but a fairly standard antenna setup.  Is there 
not enough overall power from the KX1?

I put a call into Elecraft before/at the holiday and they are getting an 
answer for me on my previous question as to how to get the KX1 to send a 
continuous wave when the KXAT1 is in bypass for the external tuner.  It 
appears to me that it sends dits or dahs when ATU is set to external 
tuner ATU == CAL.  I would try to study the situation more with the THP 
HC200-AT autotuner but I’m unclear at the moment what the theory/design 
is with the KXAT1 in bypass mode.

I thank you for your advice and thoughts in advance.

Dan
Ad1p


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Re: [Elecraft] [KX1] KX1 | KXAT1 ATU questions

2010-01-03 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dan,

Would you please borrow an antenna analyzer from your friend and publish 
the impedance (both resistive and reactive components) of that antenna 
measured through both the 3 ft coax and the 25 foot coax.
After having that data, perhaps we can give you an intelligent answer 
instead of mere guesses.
I understand that the KX1 works nicely into a dummy load - we need to 
figure out how to help you with your antenna, but without measurements, 
that task is not possible.

73,
Don W3FPR

Daniel Paul Perez wrote:
 My KX-1 has KXB3080, KXAT1, KXPD1 options.  I am having trials and 
 tribulations with the KXAT1 tuning my KX-1.

 My configuration was Cobra Senior Ultralight up 60-66’ at one end 45-50’ 
 at the other with center up about 55-60’ | 81 feet of 450 ohm ladder 
 line runs that runs about 1’ foot through a casement window | Balun 
 Designs 4:1 4113t current balun | 3’ coax with 239 – 239 connectors 
 [703+] OR an amphenol 239/BNC adapter [KX-1].

 In this config my Icom 703Plus tuned all bands and forward power was a 
 bit diminished.  The Elecraft KX-1 would not tune 40M only.  KX1 is 
 getting respectable power and swr on 80, 30 and 20 and 40 will throw a 
 high power value and r9.9.

 Getting some advice from this reflector (Thanks to Dale - WC7S in WY) 
 and the antenna manufacturer I then switched out the 3 foot coax with a 
 25 foot coax between the balun and transceiver.

 In this config my Icom 703Plus tunes all bands at near SWR 1.0 and 
 forward power is exactly at what is set.  The 703Plus works like a champ 
 and even better in this config.  Now the Elecraft KX1 has high SWR r9.9 
 on 80, 40, 30 and reads between r3-r5?? on 20M with respectable power 
 levels on all bands.  I would have thought the KX1 to perform better as 
 well?  Now the 703 is perfect and the KX1 is down on all 4 bands?

 Could someone help me understand why this might now be?

 I realize the KX1 tuner is smaller capacity than the Icom internal tuner 
 – but this antenna configuration is quite respectable.  I read many 
 anecdotes of the sorts of “I threw a wire up in a tree with my KX1 and 
 it tunes and works lots and lots of countries.”  This isn’t exactly 
 throwing a wire in a tree but a fairly standard antenna setup.  Is there 
 not enough overall power from the KX1?

 I put a call into Elecraft before/at the holiday and they are getting an 
 answer for me on my previous question as to how to get the KX1 to send a 
 continuous wave when the KXAT1 is in bypass for the external tuner.  It 
 appears to me that it sends dits or dahs when ATU is set to external 
 tuner ATU == CAL.  I would try to study the situation more with the THP 
 HC200-AT autotuner but I’m unclear at the moment what the theory/design 
 is with the KXAT1 in bypass mode.

 I thank you for your advice and thoughts in advance.

 Dan
 Ad1p


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for January 3rd 4th, 2010

2010-01-03 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   Twenty meters was not kind today.  I did get a little relay help from Tom 
and then he acted as NCS for a bit.  Neither of us could hear very well.  
Luckily forty meters was much better.  The weather reports (except for one 77 
degree temperature) was chilly, to cold, to quite cold.  Below zero across 
North Dakota and Minnesota with the teens across the next tier of states all 
the way to the Atlantic.  Colorado had warmer temperatures and then there was 
Rick in Alaska with a balmy 16 degrees.  It is all in one's perspective :)  I 
used to think anything between 10 above and 20 below was just right but I guess 
I am getting soft living out west.  I don't get to ski though so life is not as 
good :(  
   
   On to the lists = 

  On 14050 kHz at 2300z:
AE6IC - Fred - CA - K3 - 2241
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183* QNI # 160 * 
AD6GI - Chuck - CA - K3 - 355
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866   ** QNI # 220 **
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471
K7SJ - Roger - WA - K3 - 75
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
W0NTA - Dick - CO - K3 - 1208

  On 7045.32 kHz at z:
N7CQR - Dan - OR - K2 - 1010
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W6SU - John - CA - K3 - 1303
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K3 - 457
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
N7KRT - Jeff - TX - K2 - 5471
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
K7SJ - Roger - WA - K3 - 75
W8OV - Dave - TX - K3 - 3139
AE6IC - Fred - CA - K3 - 2241
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
W6JXH - Ron - CA 
KD5ZLB - Edwin - LA - K3 - 3147
WI6O - John - CA - K1 - 922
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798

   Our first nets of the new year went pretty well although there was quite a 
bit of QRN and QSB on twenty meters and QSB, QRN, and QRM on 40 meters.  The 
odd frequency chosen on the second net was due to the RTTY folks lower and a 
faster CW op a bit higher.  I was right in between them and it worked OK.  The 
teletype folks never came up to where I was working but I did get quite a few 
folks on top of me sending odd dits and dahs.  On twenty meters there was one 
op who sent a zillion dits as he tuned and then a few Vs until he finally 
decided to listen to the frequency.  Guess once he got tuned up he could hear 
it was in use.  
   From what I have read it looks like the next three weeks will be very cold 
throughout the eastern two-thirds of the US.  It has something to do with the 
cooling cycles of both oceans.  However, that cooling does not apply out here.  
Maybe I won't have to use much wood this week although the damp, chilly 
temperatures seem much colder than they really are.  When I hear 25 below zero 
I know it is much drier there and the cold does not effect folks as much as 
this wet cold does here.  Although when the wind blows that frigid air does cut 
to the bone.  I still miss it.
   Until next week stay well and stay warm,
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

-

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[Elecraft] [K1] K1 Low power

2010-01-03 Thread Rick/WA6ES

Ok first let me this is the same K1 from earlier. The 40m portion works just
fine with 6ish watts out. Heck I even had one QSO to break it in.Now for the
20m, I did the alignments and can only get 2.5 watts out. Tried and tried
again to align it and can only get around 2.5 watts. It is getting late for
me tonight and I have to work tomorrow so I will tackle it again tomorrow.
Any Ideas?

Thanks 
Rick/WA6ES
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Dayton Hamvention 2010

2010-01-03 Thread .k8dd.
Julius Fazekas n2wn wrote:
 Johnny,

 Check here: http://www.hamvention.org/activities.php


 QRPers attend FDIM.


http://fdim.qrparci.orgNot only for QRPers!

 Contesters go to Contest University.


http://www.contestuniversity.com/

 There are banquets for DXers, Contesters, Top Banders and others.


And QRPers at FDIM

 Most of the event related hotels are booked already. Access to a vehicle is
 a must.


Yes on the event related hotels.
But . QRP-ARCI has a bus between the QRP Hotel and the Hamvention on 
Friday  Saturday, so you really don't need a car!

72  73HankK8DD

-- 
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rm -r *
---

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (1-3-10)

2010-01-03 Thread Phil and Christina

We had a good net today with a total of 33 participants again.  Signals were
generally good.  We ran for about 30 minutes.  The only discussions were on
audio quality checks.  Thanks to everyone who checked in.  Here is the list
of participants.

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

W2RWA   DickNY  K3  2603
W4TMCaryVA  K3  3491
W5ETJ   GaryTX  K3  3227
KD1NA   DaveMA  K3  934
W0NTA   DickCO  K3  1787
K4GCJ   Garry   NC  K3  1597
W1DFB   Don MA  K3  2937
W3FPR   Don NC  K3  20
NF8JPaulMI  K3  758
K8MBY   PhilOH  K3  609
AB2TC   Ken NY  K3  82
KD6LAZ  DickCA  K3  3697
K8DHA   JohnMI  K3  3012
N9YKE   Don WI  K3  2505
W4PFM   PaulVA  K3  1673
K0JWC   Jim MI  K3  3447
W5EWA   StanTX  K2  4216
KA1OZ   DickMA  K3  859
W0FMTerry   MO  K3  474
K7AGE   Randy   CA  K3  2321
W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
K8EAG   Gil MI  K3  99
K7SJRoger   WA  K3  75
KE4INM  Jim FL  K3  3307
AI4VZ   George  CA  K3  242
KA0NCR  Arnie   NE  K3  185
K2LTS   PeteNY  K3  1028
W8YMO   Harry   OH  K3  166
KB3FBR  Joe PA  K2  6187
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
WD9CKY  Larry   IL  Icom
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826


73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (1-3-10)

2010-01-03 Thread srife
My SteppIR was lowered down to 15 feet, pointing north and I was
running 100 watts Phil. That's why someone took pity on me and relayed for
me. My K3 is on the bench awaiting parts and the fabled DSP upgrade board.
It was nice using the K2 for a change.

Stan Rife 
W5EWA 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil and Christina
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 11:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (1-3-10)


We had a good net today with a total of 33 participants again.  Signals were
generally good.  We ran for about 30 minutes.  The only discussions were on
audio quality checks.  Thanks to everyone who checked in.  Here is the list
of participants.

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

W2RWA   DickNY  K3  2603
W4TMCaryVA  K3  3491
W5ETJ   GaryTX  K3  3227
KD1NA   DaveMA  K3  934
W0NTA   DickCO  K3  1787
K4GCJ   Garry   NC  K3  1597
W1DFB   Don MA  K3  2937
W3FPR   Don NC  K3  20
NF8JPaulMI  K3  758
K8MBY   PhilOH  K3  609
AB2TC   Ken NY  K3  82
KD6LAZ  DickCA  K3  3697
K8DHA   JohnMI  K3  3012
N9YKE   Don WI  K3  2505
W4PFM   PaulVA  K3  1673
K0JWC   Jim MI  K3  3447
W5EWA   StanTX  K2  4216
KA1OZ   DickMA  K3  859
W0FMTerry   MO  K3  474
K7AGE   Randy   CA  K3  2321
W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
K8EAG   Gil MI  K3  99
K7SJRoger   WA  K3  75
KE4INM  Jim FL  K3  3307
AI4VZ   George  CA  K3  242
KA0NCR  Arnie   NE  K3  185
K2LTS   PeteNY  K3  1028
W8YMO   Harry   OH  K3  166
KB3FBR  Joe PA  K2  6187
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
WD9CKY  Larry   IL  Icom
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826


73,

Phil, NS7P

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