Re: [Elecraft] K3: RF Gain, Squelch

[Ian White GM3SEK]

Alan Bloom wrote:
>On most radios, the term "RF Gain" is actually a misnomer.  The control 
>should really be called "IF Gain".
>

This includes the K3; manual RF gain control or AGC are not applied to 
any stage ahead of the first mixer.

The "RF Gain" control operates on only one stage, the 8.215MHz IF 
amplifier, which is also controlled by the hardware AGC.

The only controls in the K3 that affect signal levels *ahead* of the 
first mixer are the PREamp and ATTenuator buttons - just two steps of 
about 10dB each.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 usb to serial

[Wes Stewart]

What program is polling the K3 and what port number is it set to?

Go to Device Manager and see what port and speed the USB adapter is defaulted 
to.  The program that's trying to communicate with the K3 has to use the same 
number.  If you move the adapter to another USB port this will change.  You can 
assign a port number and speed in Device Manager.



--- On Mon, 1/11/10, rfenab...@gmail.com  wrote:

From: rfenab...@gmail.com 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 usb to serial
To: "Elecraft" 
Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 10:56 PM

Can anyone guess what I am NOT doing correctly?

KUSB (Prolific usb) driver installed in Windows xp pro with SP3

Windows says installed and working correctly. (No matter which usb port I plug 
the usb to serial cable into.

Speed is set to 38400 on the PC and K3 but still just wants to poll the K3 but 
does not connect.

What am I missing here?...apart from having lost the plot long ago...(:-))

73's
Gary
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra




  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 usb to serial

[Dick Dievendorff]

What program are you using to poll the K3?

If it's the K3 Utility, please make sure you've selected the correct COM
port.  There's information in K3 Utility Help to assist in finding the COM
port that corresponds to your KUSB.  If there is more than one choice in the
Port page's COM port selector, try other ones.

There have been defective USB to Serial cables, there have been defective PC
USB hubs, and there have been failures in the K3's KIO3.  Generally the
issue is selecting the wrong COM port or a defective cable.  Can you try
another cable?  

If available, try a "real" RS-232 port in preference to any USB to Serial
adapter.

Has this ever worked for you?

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of rfenab...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 9:57 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 usb to serial

Can anyone guess what I am NOT doing correctly?

KUSB (Prolific usb) driver installed in Windows xp pro with SP3

Windows says installed and working correctly. (No matter which usb port I
plug the usb to serial cable into.

Speed is set to 38400 on the PC and K3 but still just wants to poll the K3
but does not connect.

What am I missing here?...apart from having lost the plot long ago...(:-))

73's
Gary
Sent via BlackBerryR from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 usb to serial

[Don Wilhelm]

Gary,

I don't know what is going on, but I can assure you of one thing - the 
K3 does not poll - it only responds to what it sees on the RS-232 bus.  
Any polling must be initiated at the computer end.

Is there any chance that you can try a computer with a real serial 
port?  That should give an indication of whether the K3 is at fault or 
the computer/USB adapter is the culprit.

73,
Don W3FPR

rfenab...@gmail.com wrote:
> Can anyone guess what I am NOT doing correctly?
>
> KUSB (Prolific usb) driver installed in Windows xp pro with SP3
>
> Windows says installed and working correctly. (No matter which usb port I 
> plug the usb to serial cable into.
>
> Speed is set to 38400 on the PC and K3 but still just wants to poll the K3 
> but does not connect.
>
> What am I missing here?...apart from having lost the plot long ago...(:-))
>
> 73's
> Gary
> Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
> __
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>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 01/11/10 
> 02:35:00
>
>   
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[Elecraft] K3 usb to serial

[rfenabled]

Can anyone guess what I am NOT doing correctly?

KUSB (Prolific usb) driver installed in Windows xp pro with SP3

Windows says installed and working correctly. (No matter which usb port I plug 
the usb to serial cable into.

Speed is set to 38400 on the PC and K3 but still just wants to poll the K3 but 
does not connect.

What am I missing here?...apart from having lost the plot long ago...(:-))

73's
Gary
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] T1: can I switch into TUNE with the K2's tune button?

[Don Wilhelm]

Werner,

I do not know of any way to accomplish what you desire. There is no way 
to have a depression of the TUNE button on the K3 to initiate any 
external action - it simply outputs RF at the requested power level 
(unless the KAT2 or KAT100 is installed, then the action changes).

To do as you have asked, one would need to modify the K2 to detect a 
hold of the TUNE button and make a contact closure external to the K2.  
I guess one could wire an extra set of leads to the switch itself and 
sort out the TAP/Hold situation external to the K2, but that would 
involve adding a microprocessor dedicated to that task as well as 
running the switch contact wires to the outside of the K2.  Not a 
trivial modification.

It would be easier to mount a KAT2 external to the K2 (create your own 
enclosure), and the operation would be 'automatic' since the KAT2 does 
contain the microprocessor that will do the tuning at reduced power 
levels.  A KAT2 could be connected to the KIO2 AUX I/O connector in much 
the same manner as the KAT100 connects (or use the KAT100 which comes 
with its own enclosure).

73,
Don W3FPR

Dr. Werner Furlan wrote:
> I have built the T1, and find it an amazing instrument. I would like to 
> use it also with the K2, which in my case has no QRP tuner built in, 
> because there is no room left, I decided to build the SCS Ptc-2 into the 
> rig instead of the battery and tuner. 
> I would like to switch the T1 into tune mode without using the Tune button 
> of the T1, but instead use the Tune button of the K2. 
> Is this possible somehow? I think there is the possiblity to switch the T1 
> to Tune with the remote jack. But how do I get the appropriate signal out 
> of the K2?
>
> TIA , 
>
> 73! de Werner OE9FWV
>
>   
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 01/11/10 
> 02:35:00
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Want to buy a K3

[Don Wilhelm]

Philippe,

That is true if one is operating in an environment where there are 
strong signals close to your listening frequency - and if that is the 
case, the narrow roofing filters are a must.  My operating is more 
casual, and I find the 2.7 kHz filter plus the DSP filter quite adequate 
for my purposes (either CW or SSB or Data modes).  Now, if the ham 
located only 2500 feet from me choses to get on the air close to my 
frequency regularly, I may change my mind and get the more narrow 
roofing filters.  So far, that has not been a problem, so I continue 
with my single 2.7 kHz filter for all modes except FM (which I do not 
normally operate, but I do have the 13 kHz filter) - I have no desire 
for AM transmit nor ESSB, so I do not have the 6 kHz filter either.

73,
Don W3FPR

Philippe Trottet wrote:
> Fully confirm this assessment ! 
> The 1.8Khz 8 pole in a congested environment is a must. I have it in addition 
> of the 2.8Khz.
> Considering the H polar of my 40m antenna receiving signals from the close 
> East, most are regular Ham's from ex-USSR area and also very active pirates 
> on that side, up to 59 +30 is common. 
> Sometime ago two of those big guns were respectively on 7.085 and 7.090 with 
> certainly old amplifiers spreading their signal several KHz away from the 
> normal spectrum with saturated audio, I've just clicked on the 1.8Khz filter 
> and as Bill says, FC to 1.05~1.10 and was able to listen clearly and do the 
> contact with JA8BOF on 7.088. 
> Just a trick, to program with the Elecraft utility the1.8Khz filter, starting 
> from 2.1Khz.
> When listening with the 2.8 moving the width down will activate automatically 
> at 2.1Khz the 1.8 filter, it is helpful.
> 73's
> Philippe A65BI
> http://www.qrz.com/callsign/A65BI
> K3#3616
> " By Ham's, For Ham's...What else ! "
>
>  ( http://www.qrz.com/callsign/A65BI ) 
>
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: RF Gain, Squelch

[Phil Hystad]

Don and Al...

Thanks for the explanations.  Yes, this does indeed make sense.  Finally that 
mystery is behind me.

phil


On Jan 11, 2010, at 9:10 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Al,
> 
> To look at it another way - look at the S-meter to observe the band noise 
> level, and then back off the RF gain until the S-meter is steady at that same 
> S-meter reading.  Of course, this should be done at a spot in the band where 
> no signals are present.
> 
> That is a quick way to determine the optimum setting for the RF Gain 
> consistent with the greatest receiver dynamic range and one does not have to 
> listen to the constant band noise clutter.
> 
> The other option is to just run with "all knobs full right" and put up with 
> listening to the band noise when there are gaps in the signal level.
> 
> Be aware that the AGC Threshold will also have a great effect on the amount 
> of band noise heard in the audio.  If the Threshold is set too low, the 
> receiver will go into AGC action on only the band noise.  I use an AGC 
> Threshold setting of 008 just for that reason (I know the default is 005, but 
> I think that is too low).
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> Alan Bloom wrote:
>> On most radios, the term "RF Gain" is actually a misnomer.  The control
>> should really be called "IF Gain".
>> 
>> The way most HF receivers work is that turning down the "RF Gain"
>> control simply applies a DC voltage to the receiver's AGC circuitry.
>> For example, if an S9 signal causes the AGC voltage to rise to 1.23
>> volts, then when you set the RF Gain control to place 1.23V on the AGC
>> line, the S meter will read S9 even when no signal is present.  In that
>> case, signals below S9 do not change the gain or S meter reading.
>> Signals above S9 cause the AGC/S meter to rise as before.
>> 
>> Turning down the RF gain control causes the receiver to sound less noisy
>> because the IF gain is limited to some maximum value.  If you set it
>> right you can still hear the weak signals (taking advantage of the human
>> ear's dynamic range) but you don't have to put up with so much noise.
>> 
>> On the noisy low bands I generally set the RF Gain control so that the S
>> meter reads nearly constant when no signals are present, bouncing up
>> slightly only on the biggest noise peaks.
>> 
>> Al N1AL
>> 
>>  

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[Elecraft] LP Pan for sale

[Greg]

Selling my LP-Pan (K3) along with an M-Audio Firewire 96 kHz soundcard.  
The LP-Pan is in excellent condition.  The firewire card works great but 
it does have a few marks on the top of the case.  This card works easily 
with PowerSDR and Skimmer at the same time.

$175 shipped CONUS.

Tnx
Greg
AB7R

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: RF Gain, Squelch

[Don Wilhelm]

Al,

To look at it another way - look at the S-meter to observe the band 
noise level, and then back off the RF gain until the S-meter is steady 
at that same S-meter reading.  Of course, this should be done at a spot 
in the band where no signals are present.

That is a quick way to determine the optimum setting for the RF Gain 
consistent with the greatest receiver dynamic range and one does not 
have to listen to the constant band noise clutter.

The other option is to just run with "all knobs full right" and put up 
with listening to the band noise when there are gaps in the signal level.

Be aware that the AGC Threshold will also have a great effect on the 
amount of band noise heard in the audio.  If the Threshold is set too 
low, the receiver will go into AGC action on only the band noise.  I use 
an AGC Threshold setting of 008 just for that reason (I know the default 
is 005, but I think that is too low).

73,
Don W3FPR

Alan Bloom wrote:
> On most radios, the term "RF Gain" is actually a misnomer.  The control
> should really be called "IF Gain".
>
> The way most HF receivers work is that turning down the "RF Gain"
> control simply applies a DC voltage to the receiver's AGC circuitry.
> For example, if an S9 signal causes the AGC voltage to rise to 1.23
> volts, then when you set the RF Gain control to place 1.23V on the AGC
> line, the S meter will read S9 even when no signal is present.  In that
> case, signals below S9 do not change the gain or S meter reading.
> Signals above S9 cause the AGC/S meter to rise as before.
>
> Turning down the RF gain control causes the receiver to sound less noisy
> because the IF gain is limited to some maximum value.  If you set it
> right you can still hear the weak signals (taking advantage of the human
> ear's dynamic range) but you don't have to put up with so much noise.
>
> On the noisy low bands I generally set the RF Gain control so that the S
> meter reads nearly constant when no signals are present, bouncing up
> slightly only on the biggest noise peaks.
>
> Al N1AL
>
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Want to buy a K3

[Philippe Trottet]

Fully confirm this assessment ! 
The 1.8Khz 8 pole in a congested environment is a must. I have it in addition 
of the 2.8Khz.
Considering the H polar of my 40m antenna receiving signals from the close 
East, most are regular Ham's from ex-USSR area and also very active pirates on 
that side, up to 59 +30 is common. 
Sometime ago two of those big guns were respectively on 7.085 and 7.090 with 
certainly old amplifiers spreading their signal several KHz away from the 
normal spectrum with saturated audio, I've just clicked on the 1.8Khz filter 
and as Bill says, FC to 1.05~1.10 and was able to listen clearly and do the 
contact with JA8BOF on 7.088. 
Just a trick, to program with the Elecraft utility the1.8Khz filter, starting 
from 2.1Khz.
When listening with the 2.8 moving the width down will activate automatically 
at 2.1Khz the 1.8 filter, it is helpful.
73's
Philippe A65BI
http://www.qrz.com/callsign/A65BI
K3#3616
" By Ham's, For Ham's...What else ! "

 ( http://www.qrz.com/callsign/A65BI ) 

>>> "Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO"  12-01-2010 6:53 >>>
One thing the other posters have not mentioned (probably not being SSB 
types) is a narrow filter for SSB. I have the 1.8 kHz 8-pole filter, and it 
is amazing. You do have to reduce the hi-cut a bit to center the voice in 
the narrower passband (an FC of 1.05 is about ideal for most male voices). 
What you get is remarkable immunity from overload by extremely strong, 
close-in signals (providing of course that they aren't actually splattering, 
which you really can't do anything about). For SSB contest work, this filter 
is a must. If you don't work SSB much and/or aren't at all interested in SSB 
contesting/DXing, then you can probably skip it. But for me it's been a 
terrific addition.

Bill W5WVO

--
From: "John W2XS" 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 2:28 PM
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  Want to buy a K3

>
> You will get many opinions on this.  Here's mine.  I am primarily a CW
> operator but I like to listen to AM BCB and Shortwave stations.  My 
> antenna
> is a multi-band Cobra Ultralite fed with ladder line and a Balun Designs 
> 4:1
> Tuner Balun.
>
> 1. KAT3 Tuner.  If you have matched, coax-fed antennas, then you may not
> need this.  But it is a great addition to those of us with multi-band
> antennas.  It remembers the settings on small segments of each band which 
> is
> incredibly convenient for QSYing, especially on 160m.
>
> 2. KBPF3 General Coverage Filter.  If you stick only to the ham bands, 
> then
> you may not need this.  But it was on my "must-have" list (as was the 
> KAT3).
> I have all 100 memories filled with short-wave and AM BCB stations all 
> over
> the frequency spectrum. I've been listening to Radio China and Radio Cairo 
> a
> lot lately.
>
> 3. KPA3 100W Amplifier.  Many people start out with the 10W option.  I 
> have
> had a lot of success with the K2 at 10W.  But I wanted the K3 to be my 
> "QRO"
> rig as it replaced a Kenwood TS-930S (which is a fine but aging rig).
>
> 4. KRX3 Sub receiver.  I added this after a year and find it is incredible
> for working split-frequency DX stations.  I cannot see ever going back to
> the "push the TF Set" button days to try and figure out where the heck the
> DX station is listening. If you are not a DXer, or don't care about
> diversity reception, etc, then you may not need this.
>
> 5. Filters. This was (and is) a hot topic.  But I stand by my initial
> decision, which was:
>
> A. 200 and 500 Hz 5-pole filters.  There was an early posting that said 
> that
> only the first 30 dB of slope is critical, and that a 5-pole filter would 
> be
> more than enough. I went with that, and am happy.  There probably is some
> (small and subtle?) difference between the 5-pole and 8-pole performance,
> but the main purpose of a roofing filter is to prevent the DSP (the main
> selectivity in the rig) from overloading. Signals are generally weak right
> now, but will start to get stronger as conditions improve.  It is amazing,
> though, to crank that knob down to 500 and then to 200 and know that there
> is no chance for any out-of-bandpass signal to get through.
>
> B. 2.7 kHz SSB filter.  This comes standard.  This is the only filter that 
> I
> have in the sub receiver right now. I based that decision on wanting to 
> hear
> a wide bandpass most of the time to hear the station that the DX is 
> working.
>
> C. AM filter.  This is a little bit disappointing to me as I thought that 
> I
> would use this a lot.  But I almost never use it. Unless you are 
> interested
> in AM transmission or ESSB transmission, you might skip this one.
>
> D. FM filter. This is the one that I use for all my AM listening. I wish
> they offered a less-expensive filter for receiving only.
>
> You can always buy the minimum configuration now and add later. A real big
> advantage of the K3 over most other rigs today is the roofing filter
> concept, and signals will be getting 

Re: [Elecraft] K3: RF Gain, Squelch

[Don Wilhelm]

Phil,

It is quite normal for the S-meter reading to increase when the RF gain 
is reduced.  The AGC voltage (which drives the S-meter) is increased to 
reduce the gain of the receiver when the RF Gain is reduced - so the 
S-meter indication goes up.

The way I tend to think of it is - there is already an S-3 level of 
atmospheric (and locally generated) noise on a particular band, so I 
reduce the RF Gain until the S-meter reads S-3 and the band noise does 
not bother me.  Signals stronger than the band noise will still make the 
S-meter increase, so I can still see a relative signal strength reading 
between stations.

If you want to reduce the signal level into the K3 without changing the 
S-meter, set the menu to S-MTR ABS (S-meter absolute) and turn off the 
preamp and possibly turn on the Attenuator.  In ABS mode, the S-meter 
will not change with preamp or attenuator on/off, but it will still rise 
with reduction of the RF Gain.  For maximum performance on any 
particular band, if you can hear the band noise (with no signal 
present), turn the preamp off (it is not needed and is detrimental to 
the receiver dynamic range) - if the band noise is still present, turn 
on the attenuator.  If you can still hear the band noise, reduce the RF 
gain to the point where the band noise is just barely audible - that is 
the maximum sensitivity setting that can be used for that band.  Note 
than this optimum setting will change from time to time, and from band 
to band.  The K3 has more than ample gain so it can hear very weak 
signals - if the band noise is high, you are unlikely to hear signals 
below that band noise level, so it is wise to reduce the receiver gain 
to keep the receiver from sounding "noisy".

This is different than squelch.  Squelch totally silences (mutes) the 
receiver until a signal greater than the level set by the squelch 
control is exceeded.

Does that help?

73,
Don W3FPR

Phil Hystad wrote:
> I have never really understood the connection between RF gain and squelch 
> controls.  I first saw this when I got my first modern rig, the Icom 756 Pro 
> III.  And, I see this kind of combo with the K3 too.  I never had experience 
> with this back in my early ham operator days (~1960s).
>
> So, can someone explain the behavior.  Let's assume that I have squelch 
> operative for FM only.
>
> On CW or SSB I see that RF gain maximized is the control knob turned all the 
> way clockwise.  But, as I back off the RF gain (counterclockwise) there comes 
> a point where the S-meter starts to increase even though there is no apparent 
> signal.  Turning the RF gain fully counter clockwise pins the S-meter.
>
> So, what is going on here.  What is this connection between turning "down" RF 
> gain and the S-meter increasing.  Now, I have the same behavior (roughly) on 
> my Icom Pro III and I never understood that either.
>
> Thanks for any explanation you can contribute.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> K3 owner for one full week now.
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: RF Gain, Squelch

[Alan Bloom]

On most radios, the term "RF Gain" is actually a misnomer.  The control
should really be called "IF Gain".

The way most HF receivers work is that turning down the "RF Gain"
control simply applies a DC voltage to the receiver's AGC circuitry.
For example, if an S9 signal causes the AGC voltage to rise to 1.23
volts, then when you set the RF Gain control to place 1.23V on the AGC
line, the S meter will read S9 even when no signal is present.  In that
case, signals below S9 do not change the gain or S meter reading.
Signals above S9 cause the AGC/S meter to rise as before.

Turning down the RF gain control causes the receiver to sound less noisy
because the IF gain is limited to some maximum value.  If you set it
right you can still hear the weak signals (taking advantage of the human
ear's dynamic range) but you don't have to put up with so much noise.

On the noisy low bands I generally set the RF Gain control so that the S
meter reads nearly constant when no signals are present, bouncing up
slightly only on the biggest noise peaks.

Al N1AL




On Mon, 2010-01-11 at 20:11 -0800, Phil Hystad wrote:
> I have never really understood the connection between RF gain and squelch 
> controls.  I first saw this when I got my first modern rig, the Icom 756 Pro 
> III.  And, I see this kind of combo with the K3 too.  I never had experience 
> with this back in my early ham operator days (~1960s).
> 
> So, can someone explain the behavior.  Let's assume that I have squelch 
> operative for FM only.
> 
> On CW or SSB I see that RF gain maximized is the control knob turned all the 
> way clockwise.  But, as I back off the RF gain (counterclockwise) there comes 
> a point where the S-meter starts to increase even though there is no apparent 
> signal.  Turning the RF gain fully counter clockwise pins the S-meter.
> 
> So, what is going on here.  What is this connection between turning "down" RF 
> gain and the S-meter increasing.  Now, I have the same behavior (roughly) on 
> my Icom Pro III and I never understood that either.
> 
> Thanks for any explanation you can contribute.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> K3 owner for one full week now.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Want to buy a K3

[Ed Muns]

W5WVO wrote:
> One thing the other posters have not mentioned (probably not being SSB
> types) is a narrow filter for SSB. I have the 1.8 kHz 8-pole 
> filter, and it is amazing. You do have to reduce the hi-cut a 
> bit to center the voice in the narrower passband (an FC of 
> 1.05 is about ideal for most male voices). 
> What you get is remarkable immunity from overload by 
> extremely strong, close-in signals (providing of course that 
> they aren't actually splattering, which you really can't do 
> anything about). For SSB contest work, this filter is a must. 
> If you don't work SSB much and/or aren't at all interested in 
> SSB contesting/DXing, then you can probably skip it. But for 
> me it's been a terrific addition.

Or, the INRAD 1500 Hz (actually 1625 Hz at -6 dB) which tightly protects a
1500 Hz DSP bandwidth.  Configure it to engage at a DSP bandwidth of 1500
Hz.  Just reduce HI CUT until you reach 1500 Hz bandwidth.  (Leave WIDTH and
SHIFT alone.)  A narrow roofing filter is not needed to evaluate narrow SSB
receive bandwidths.  Just reduce HI CUT to various bandwidths and hear what
it sounds like.  Then, get an appropriate roofing filter to protect the DSP
from strong nearby (clean) signals.

Ed - W0YK
---
Ed Muns
Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com 
FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard 

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[Elecraft] K3: RF Gain, Squelch

[Phil Hystad]

I have never really understood the connection between RF gain and squelch 
controls.  I first saw this when I got my first modern rig, the Icom 756 Pro 
III.  And, I see this kind of combo with the K3 too.  I never had experience 
with this back in my early ham operator days (~1960s).

So, can someone explain the behavior.  Let's assume that I have squelch 
operative for FM only.

On CW or SSB I see that RF gain maximized is the control knob turned all the 
way clockwise.  But, as I back off the RF gain (counterclockwise) there comes a 
point where the S-meter starts to increase even though there is no apparent 
signal.  Turning the RF gain fully counter clockwise pins the S-meter.

So, what is going on here.  What is this connection between turning "down" RF 
gain and the S-meter increasing.  Now, I have the same behavior (roughly) on my 
Icom Pro III and I never understood that either.

Thanks for any explanation you can contribute.

73, phil, K7PEH
K3 owner for one full week now.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HI-TEMP ALARM

[je1trv]

Hi folks!
Thank you for suggestions.

In my previous post, I forgot to say that my K3 works without hi-temp
alarm after warming up (about 30min or so without transmit just receiving
status).

So, it's just the same with Jaako's case.
My shack temp was around 15C these days.

hmmm...

Atsu, JE1TRV

> Hi
>
> I have same problem, when shack temperature is below 17 degrees Celcius
>
> When PA Temp is higher than 25 degrees C then power is OK.
>
> Jaakko OH1MA / K3 ser. 2952
>
>
> Hi Elecrafters!
>
> I have problem on my K3/100 (S/N3050, factory assembled).
> When I transmit more than 12W(means hi power amp on)
>   within about 30min after mains power on, HI-TEMP alarm
> occur and equipment is forced to set 5W.
>
> No problem at all when hi-power amp is through ( Po<12W ).
>
> Any idea?
> Thanks in advance
> 73, Atsu JE1TRV
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?

[Alan Bloom]

Switching supplies tend to have their worst noise problems on the low
bands because those are the lower (stronger) harmonics of the switching
frequency and the noise filtering tends to be less effective at low
frequencies.

It sounds like the spurs are coming out the power line.  If the Alinco
supply does not already have a line module with built-in filter you
might see if you can find a filtered module that would fit.  For
example, here's one I was looking at recently. ($12.58 in single
quantity)

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=817-1499-ND

It has a PI filter with 0.1 uF, 0.3 mH (2) and 2.2 nF (2) which ought to
give 30 or 40 dB attenuation on 160 meters.

Or you could search the Digi-Key site for separate line filters:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=3408328&k=line%
20filter

Al N1AL


On Mon, 2010-01-11 at 18:31 -0800, Bob Nielsen wrote:
> I have the same supply and have never had any birdie problems with it  
> in 9+ years of use (although being antenna-challenged, I don't  
> operate much on 160).  In the QST reviews of switching supplies  
> several years ago the Alinco did pretty well compared to most of the  
> competition, but I suspect that some supplies are more prone to these  
> issues than others.
> 
> I solved most of my birdie issues by switching from a CRT to a LCD  
> monitor on the shack computer.
> 
> 73, Bob N7XY
> 
> On Jan 11, 2010, at 5:32 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
> 
> > Exactly why I sold mine.  It is noisey and basically worthless to me.
> > Perhaps the newer ones work better.  I am using other more recent  
> > switching
> > supplies that don't give me any issues and they are a whole lot less
> > expensive.
> >
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Bill
> > K9YEQ
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> > Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 6:30 PM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?
> >
> >  I  have an Alinco DM-330MVT power supply that has significant  
> > birdies on
> > 160M. The power supply has a nice feature that allows you to move the
> > birdies, which makes it obvious that the birdies are originating  
> > from the
> > power supply.  The birdies are at least 1 S-unit above the  
> > background noise.
> > Here's what I've done to try to eliminate them:
> > -  added a filter connected to the DC output consisting of 4 toroid  
> > beads
> > (type 77) in series on each side and 0.1 caps across the leads and  
> > from each
> > lead to ground.  I  also have both leads going about 10 turns  
> > through a type
> > 77 toroid to filter common mode birdies.
> > - I've put 2 snap on type toroids on the AC line  as well as wound  
> > the ac
> > cord through a T200-1 toroid (which I had lying around) .
> > - I shielded all of the power leads from the power supply to all of  
> > the
> > equipment that it powers (mostly my K2, KAT100 and external speaker/ 
> > amp),
> > with the shields connected to both the power supply and the K2 chassis
> > grounds.
> > - I've moved the power supply away from my K2 (about 5' away).
> >
> >  All of this seems to have absolutely no affect on the birdies.
> > To add to
> > the mystery, the birdies are there only when I have an antenna  
> > connected to
> > the K2, so it would appear that the Power supply is radiating, but  
> > with all
> > of the wires to it filtered and the DC lines shielded, where can it be
> > radiating from - (as a test I put the whole power supply inside a  
> > metal file
> > box and grounded that to no effect.
> >
> > So,  can anyone explain this?  Other than buying a new power  
> > supply, what do
> > I do now? Except for the birdies on 160M, this is a nice power  
> > supply that's
> > small enough to fit into an attaché case with my K2, KAT100, mic  
> > and key.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Bob W1SRB
> > 

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Re: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?

[Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO]

The RFI is almost certainly common-mode and is being radiated by the AC 
power cord -- and, by extension, the house AC wiring. Your typical 
store-bought "AC line filter" is a differential-mode device and will do 
nothing to abate common-mode currents. What you need is a common-mode choke 
on the AC input cord, installed as close to the power supply case as 
possible. You make a common-mode choke by obtaining a fairly large ferrite 
toroid and wrapping it with the AC line cord. (Then use an extension cord to 
reach the wall outlet.) Palomar Engineers and a couple of other vendors sell 
these, and they have info on their websites that will help you choose the 
best ferrite mixture for the frequency bands you're most concerned with.

Or, you can do like I did, and ditch the switcher. Get a "big iron" power 
supply, like my Astron RS-70M. No birdies, no problems. :-)

Bill W5WVO

--
From: "Bob Nielsen" 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 7:31 PM
To: "elecraft List" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?

> I have the same supply and have never had any birdie problems with it
> in 9+ years of use (although being antenna-challenged, I don't
> operate much on 160).  In the QST reviews of switching supplies
> several years ago the Alinco did pretty well compared to most of the
> competition, but I suspect that some supplies are more prone to these
> issues than others.
>
> I solved most of my birdie issues by switching from a CRT to a LCD
> monitor on the shack computer.
>
> 73, Bob N7XY
>
> On Jan 11, 2010, at 5:32 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
>
>> Exactly why I sold mine.  It is noisey and basically worthless to me.
>> Perhaps the newer ones work better.  I am using other more recent
>> switching
>> supplies that don't give me any issues and they are a whole lot less
>> expensive.
>>
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Bill
>> K9YEQ
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
>> Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 6:30 PM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?
>>
>>  I  have an Alinco DM-330MVT power supply that has significant
>> birdies on
>> 160M. The power supply has a nice feature that allows you to move the
>> birdies, which makes it obvious that the birdies are originating
>> from the
>> power supply.  The birdies are at least 1 S-unit above the
>> background noise.
>> Here's what I've done to try to eliminate them:
>> -  added a filter connected to the DC output consisting of 4 toroid
>> beads
>> (type 77) in series on each side and 0.1 caps across the leads and
>> from each
>> lead to ground.  I  also have both leads going about 10 turns
>> through a type
>> 77 toroid to filter common mode birdies.
>> - I've put 2 snap on type toroids on the AC line  as well as wound
>> the ac
>> cord through a T200-1 toroid (which I had lying around) .
>> - I shielded all of the power leads from the power supply to all of
>> the
>> equipment that it powers (mostly my K2, KAT100 and external speaker/
>> amp),
>> with the shields connected to both the power supply and the K2 chassis
>> grounds.
>> - I've moved the power supply away from my K2 (about 5' away).
>>
>>  All of this seems to have absolutely no affect on the birdies.
>> To add to
>> the mystery, the birdies are there only when I have an antenna
>> connected to
>> the K2, so it would appear that the Power supply is radiating, but
>> with all
>> of the wires to it filtered and the DC lines shielded, where can it be
>> radiating from - (as a test I put the whole power supply inside a
>> metal file
>> box and grounded that to no effect.
>>
>> So,  can anyone explain this?  Other than buying a new power
>> supply, what do
>> I do now? Except for the birdies on 160M, this is a nice power
>> supply that's
>> small enough to fit into an attaché case with my K2, KAT100, mic
>> and key.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Bob W1SRB
>> __
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Want to buy a K3

[Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO]

One thing the other posters have not mentioned (probably not being SSB 
types) is a narrow filter for SSB. I have the 1.8 kHz 8-pole filter, and it 
is amazing. You do have to reduce the hi-cut a bit to center the voice in 
the narrower passband (an FC of 1.05 is about ideal for most male voices). 
What you get is remarkable immunity from overload by extremely strong, 
close-in signals (providing of course that they aren't actually splattering, 
which you really can't do anything about). For SSB contest work, this filter 
is a must. If you don't work SSB much and/or aren't at all interested in SSB 
contesting/DXing, then you can probably skip it. But for me it's been a 
terrific addition.

Bill W5WVO

--
From: "John W2XS" 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 2:28 PM
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3]  Want to buy a K3

>
> You will get many opinions on this.  Here's mine.  I am primarily a CW
> operator but I like to listen to AM BCB and Shortwave stations.  My 
> antenna
> is a multi-band Cobra Ultralite fed with ladder line and a Balun Designs 
> 4:1
> Tuner Balun.
>
> 1. KAT3 Tuner.  If you have matched, coax-fed antennas, then you may not
> need this.  But it is a great addition to those of us with multi-band
> antennas.  It remembers the settings on small segments of each band which 
> is
> incredibly convenient for QSYing, especially on 160m.
>
> 2. KBPF3 General Coverage Filter.  If you stick only to the ham bands, 
> then
> you may not need this.  But it was on my "must-have" list (as was the 
> KAT3).
> I have all 100 memories filled with short-wave and AM BCB stations all 
> over
> the frequency spectrum. I've been listening to Radio China and Radio Cairo 
> a
> lot lately.
>
> 3. KPA3 100W Amplifier.  Many people start out with the 10W option.  I 
> have
> had a lot of success with the K2 at 10W.  But I wanted the K3 to be my 
> "QRO"
> rig as it replaced a Kenwood TS-930S (which is a fine but aging rig).
>
> 4. KRX3 Sub receiver.  I added this after a year and find it is incredible
> for working split-frequency DX stations.  I cannot see ever going back to
> the "push the TF Set" button days to try and figure out where the heck the
> DX station is listening. If you are not a DXer, or don't care about
> diversity reception, etc, then you may not need this.
>
> 5. Filters. This was (and is) a hot topic.  But I stand by my initial
> decision, which was:
>
> A. 200 and 500 Hz 5-pole filters.  There was an early posting that said 
> that
> only the first 30 dB of slope is critical, and that a 5-pole filter would 
> be
> more than enough. I went with that, and am happy.  There probably is some
> (small and subtle?) difference between the 5-pole and 8-pole performance,
> but the main purpose of a roofing filter is to prevent the DSP (the main
> selectivity in the rig) from overloading. Signals are generally weak right
> now, but will start to get stronger as conditions improve.  It is amazing,
> though, to crank that knob down to 500 and then to 200 and know that there
> is no chance for any out-of-bandpass signal to get through.
>
> B. 2.7 kHz SSB filter.  This comes standard.  This is the only filter that 
> I
> have in the sub receiver right now. I based that decision on wanting to 
> hear
> a wide bandpass most of the time to hear the station that the DX is 
> working.
>
> C. AM filter.  This is a little bit disappointing to me as I thought that 
> I
> would use this a lot.  But I almost never use it. Unless you are 
> interested
> in AM transmission or ESSB transmission, you might skip this one.
>
> D. FM filter. This is the one that I use for all my AM listening. I wish
> they offered a less-expensive filter for receiving only.
>
> You can always buy the minimum configuration now and add later. A real big
> advantage of the K3 over most other rigs today is the roofing filter
> concept, and signals will be getting stronger as conditions improve, so
> think about getting at least one or two optional roofing filters to start
> with.
>
> Good luck and 73,
>
> John W2XS
>
>
> What elective boards should I consider purchasing to enhance the
> functionality of the K3.
> -- 
> View this message in context: 
> http://n2.nabble.com/Want-to-buy-a-K3-tp4287275p4288261.html
> Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Failure

[Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO]

PS -- My K3 is #888, so it's right in the same time frame as your #679.

Bill W5WVO

--
From: "Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO" 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 7:36 PM
To: ; "Elecraft" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Failure

> Yes, I have had this failure mode and at least one other guy as well, who
> posted about on this list. After talking with tech support, Elecraft sent 
> me
> a new KPAIO3 board to try. Just havng returned from holiday vacation, I 
> have
> yet to swap it in, which I really need to get around to. Will let you know
> as soon as I try it. I suspect it will fix the problem. Just a hunch. :-)
>
> There may have been a few or a bunch of these boards that had a bad (i.e.,
> early mortality) device. Beginning to sound like it, maybe.
>
> Bill W5WVO
>
> --
> From: 
> Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 6:50 AM
> To: "Elecraft" 
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Failure
>
>> Has anyone had a KPA3 cause the display to show ERR 12 v?
>>
>> Power supply checks out normal as do the leads. The circuit breaker is in
>> line and does not drop out.
>>
>> Connections appear ok as does the antenna system which is resonant etc.
>>
>> When the error is displayed the K3 reverts to low power 12w out max.
>>
>> Resetting does not correct the fault, tried placing the KPA3 to bypass 
>> and
>> all works fine. Changed the setting to PA nor and the fault returns
>> immediately.
>>
>> Support have been notified by e-mail bit thought I would ask the group if
>> anyone else has had this happen and if so, was it a KPA3 failure 
>> requiring
>> replacement. Of course the warranty has expired...(:-((
>>
>> 73's
>> Gary
>> K3 #679
>> Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Failure

[Bill VanAlstyne W5WVO]

Yes, I have had this failure mode and at least one other guy as well, who 
posted about on this list. After talking with tech support, Elecraft sent me 
a new KPAIO3 board to try. Just havng returned from holiday vacation, I have 
yet to swap it in, which I really need to get around to. Will let you know 
as soon as I try it. I suspect it will fix the problem. Just a hunch. :-)

There may have been a few or a bunch of these boards that had a bad (i.e., 
early mortality) device. Beginning to sound like it, maybe.

Bill W5WVO

--
From: 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 6:50 AM
To: "Elecraft" 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Failure

> Has anyone had a KPA3 cause the display to show ERR 12 v?
>
> Power supply checks out normal as do the leads. The circuit breaker is in 
> line and does not drop out.
>
> Connections appear ok as does the antenna system which is resonant etc.
>
> When the error is displayed the K3 reverts to low power 12w out max.
>
> Resetting does not correct the fault, tried placing the KPA3 to bypass and 
> all works fine. Changed the setting to PA nor and the fault returns 
> immediately.
>
> Support have been notified by e-mail bit thought I would ask the group if 
> anyone else has had this happen and if so, was it a KPA3 failure requiring 
> replacement. Of course the warranty has expired...(:-((
>
> 73's
> Gary
> K3 #679
> Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?

[Bob Nielsen]

I have the same supply and have never had any birdie problems with it  
in 9+ years of use (although being antenna-challenged, I don't  
operate much on 160).  In the QST reviews of switching supplies  
several years ago the Alinco did pretty well compared to most of the  
competition, but I suspect that some supplies are more prone to these  
issues than others.

I solved most of my birdie issues by switching from a CRT to a LCD  
monitor on the shack computer.

73, Bob N7XY

On Jan 11, 2010, at 5:32 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:

> Exactly why I sold mine.  It is noisey and basically worthless to me.
> Perhaps the newer ones work better.  I am using other more recent  
> switching
> supplies that don't give me any issues and they are a whole lot less
> expensive.
>
>
> 73,
>
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 6:30 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?
>
>  I  have an Alinco DM-330MVT power supply that has significant  
> birdies on
> 160M. The power supply has a nice feature that allows you to move the
> birdies, which makes it obvious that the birdies are originating  
> from the
> power supply.  The birdies are at least 1 S-unit above the  
> background noise.
> Here's what I've done to try to eliminate them:
> -  added a filter connected to the DC output consisting of 4 toroid  
> beads
> (type 77) in series on each side and 0.1 caps across the leads and  
> from each
> lead to ground.  I  also have both leads going about 10 turns  
> through a type
> 77 toroid to filter common mode birdies.
> - I've put 2 snap on type toroids on the AC line  as well as wound  
> the ac
> cord through a T200-1 toroid (which I had lying around) .
> - I shielded all of the power leads from the power supply to all of  
> the
> equipment that it powers (mostly my K2, KAT100 and external speaker/ 
> amp),
> with the shields connected to both the power supply and the K2 chassis
> grounds.
> - I've moved the power supply away from my K2 (about 5' away).
>
>  All of this seems to have absolutely no affect on the birdies.
> To add to
> the mystery, the birdies are there only when I have an antenna  
> connected to
> the K2, so it would appear that the Power supply is radiating, but  
> with all
> of the wires to it filtered and the DC lines shielded, where can it be
> radiating from - (as a test I put the whole power supply inside a  
> metal file
> box and grounded that to no effect.
>
> So,  can anyone explain this?  Other than buying a new power  
> supply, what do
> I do now? Except for the birdies on 160M, this is a nice power  
> supply that's
> small enough to fit into an attaché case with my K2, KAT100, mic  
> and key.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob W1SRB
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Re: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?

[Bill K9YEQ]

Exactly why I sold mine.  It is noisey and basically worthless to me.
Perhaps the newer ones work better.  I am using other more recent switching
supplies that don't give me any issues and they are a whole lot less
expensive.


73,

Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 6:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?

 I  have an Alinco DM-330MVT power supply that has significant birdies on
160M. The power supply has a nice feature that allows you to move the
birdies, which makes it obvious that the birdies are originating from the
power supply.  The birdies are at least 1 S-unit above the background noise.
Here's what I've done to try to eliminate them:
-  added a filter connected to the DC output consisting of 4 toroid beads
(type 77) in series on each side and 0.1 caps across the leads and from each
lead to ground.  I  also have both leads going about 10 turns through a type
77 toroid to filter common mode birdies.  
- I've put 2 snap on type toroids on the AC line  as well as wound the ac
cord through a T200-1 toroid (which I had lying around) .  
- I shielded all of the power leads from the power supply to all of the
equipment that it powers (mostly my K2, KAT100 and external speaker/amp),
with the shields connected to both the power supply and the K2 chassis
grounds.
- I've moved the power supply away from my K2 (about 5' away).
 
 All of this seems to have absolutely no affect on the birdies.   To add to
the mystery, the birdies are there only when I have an antenna connected to
the K2, so it would appear that the Power supply is radiating, but with all
of the wires to it filtered and the DC lines shielded, where can it be
radiating from - (as a test I put the whole power supply inside a metal file
box and grounded that to no effect.
 
So,  can anyone explain this?  Other than buying a new power supply, what do
I do now? Except for the birdies on 160M, this is a nice power supply that's
small enough to fit into an attaché case with my K2, KAT100, mic and key.
 
Thanks.
 
Bob W1SRB
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[Elecraft] How to Eliminate Power Supply Birdies?

[Bob]

 I  have an Alinco DM-330MVT power supply that has significant birdies on
160M. The power supply has a nice feature that allows you to move the
birdies, which makes it obvious that the birdies are originating from the
power supply.  The birdies are at least 1 S-unit above the background noise.
Here's what I've done to try to eliminate them:
-  added a filter connected to the DC output consisting of 4 toroid beads
(type 77) in series on each side and 0.1 caps across the leads and from each
lead to ground.  I  also have both leads going about 10 turns through a type
77 toroid to filter common mode birdies.  
- I've put 2 snap on type toroids on the AC line  as well as wound the ac
cord through a T200-1 toroid (which I had lying around) .  
- I shielded all of the power leads from the power supply to all of the
equipment that it powers (mostly my K2, KAT100 and external speaker/amp),
with the shields connected to both the power supply and the K2 chassis
grounds.
- I've moved the power supply away from my K2 (about 5' away).
 
 All of this seems to have absolutely no affect on the birdies.   To add to
the mystery, the birdies are there only when I have an antenna connected to
the K2, so it would appear that the Power supply is radiating, but with all
of the wires to it filtered and the DC lines shielded, where can it be
radiating from - (as a test I put the whole power supply inside a metal file
box and grounded that to no effect.
 
So,  can anyone explain this?  Other than buying a new power supply, what do
I do now? Except for the birdies on 160M, this is a nice power supply that's
small enough to fit into an attaché case with my K2, KAT100, mic and key.
 
Thanks.
 
Bob W1SRB
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Re: [Elecraft] Is the K2 old technology

[Joe Planisky]

> SMT is now the norm in industry and DIP is outdated. [...] Sooner or  
> later nearly all the DIP IC's will be not available on the market.

If it becomes a matter of form factor only (i.e. the chips are only  
available in SMT format,) SMT-to-DIP adapter boards are readily  
available.  Just search for "DIP adapter" on your favorite search  
engine.

> As far as maintainability, I see no insurmountable challenges. [...]  
> Elecraft is too small a company to manufacture any part that is not  
> easily reversed engineered.

Except for one: firmware.  Without source code, it would be pretty  
difficult to reverse engineer the functionality in the various  
microcontrollers in any rig.  And there are legal issues to consider  
as well.  I'm confident that as long as Wayne, Eric, et al. are in  
charge, replacement uC parts will remain available.  But those guys  
won't be in charge forever.  The next batch of folks who control  
Elecraft might not be as conscientious. :-)

I'm not quite sure why the thought of a uC chip failure making my K2  
unrepairable bothers me so much.  I have lots of other electronic  
devices that rely on custom chips or embedded software for their  
functionality, and yet the thought of them becoming useless because of  
a uC failure doesn't concern me.  For some reason, with my ham rigs it  
feels different.

73
--
Joe KB8AP



On Jan 11, 2010, at 7:11 AM, Conway Yee wrote:

> N8XMS writes:
>> First, is the K2 "long in the tooth"?  Am I spending a significant
>> amount of money on technology that is on it's way to being obsolete?
>
> W9ILF writes:
>> Much of it comes from the fact this reflector seems to be 95% K3  
>> talk.
>
> I've been thinking about this thread for awhile.  Is the K2 outdated
> technology?  I would say yes almost without equivocation.
>
> Ham radio in general is outdated.  I have a cellphone in my pocket  
> that
> has <<1 watt output and gives CONFIDENT point-to-point communication
> around the world under virtually all reasonable circumstances.  The
> Internet also gives much more convenient worldwide communication.  The
> only advantage ham radio has in communication in the absence of
> intervening infrastructure.
>
> The construction of the K2 is also outdated technology.  The IC  
> choices
> are now increasingly difficult to find (in any form factor as the  
> designs
> themselves are getting discontinued).  SMT is now the norm in  
> industry and
> DIP is outdated.  Software defined radio rather than hardware is now
> becoming the norm.
>
> The K2 is the state of the art in ONLY an extreme niche.   
> Specifically it
> is likely the highest performing hardware radio that is available for
> construction by a hobbyist from the component level.  Given technical
> advances in electronics, it is likely to remain the state of the art  
> for
> the foreseeable future.
>
> As far as maintainability, I see no insurmountable challenges. After  
> all,
> there are Model T and Delorean clubs keeping those cars on the  
> road.  With
> the Internet available, communication with enthusiasts are easier than
> with newsletters (e.g. FoxTango).  Elecraft is too small a company to
> manufacture any part that is not easily reversed engineered.  Sooner  
> or
> later nearly all the DIP IC's will be not available on the market.  At
> this point, since the technology used in the K2 was relatively  
> generic, we
> will figure out that the chips (say 612 or the 3150) was used in  
> massive
> quantities in a Sony Walkman or a Technics audio amplifier.  Ebay  
> prices
> on such items will be negligible and Elecraft enthusiasts can buy  
> someone
> else's junk for pennies on the dollar.
>
> tnx.
> Conway Yee, N2JWQ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 IF Output Buffer Mod

[Vic, K2VCO]

On 1/11/10 3:58 PM, K3RWN wrote:
> I take it this mod will increase the audio level?

No, it will only increase the level of the 8 MHz signal used for a 
panoramic adapter (or other accessory) that appears at the IF output 
connector. It won't affect the audio. You only need to do this if a) you 
have or are planning to get a panadapter like the forthcoming Elecraft 
P3 or the LP-Pan, and b) you want even the weakest signals to be visible 
on it.

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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[Elecraft] K3 IF Output Buffer Mod

[K3RWN]

I take it this mod will increase the audio level?

 

Please excuse my ignorance on the subject.

 

Rich #3300

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 -- Audio output

[Don Wilhelm]

Garry,

Yes, the K2 audio output is on the 'wimpy' side.  The audio of the K2 
was designed for low current drain so it could be operated efficiently 
on batteries, and as a result there just is not a lot of reserve audio - 
it is adequate for most situations, but not for use with the speaker in 
a slightly noisy hamshack.  Yes, I would suggest an amplified external 
speaker.  If you don't run into RF pickup problems, computer speakers 
will work fine - just plug them into the headphone jack, or build an 
adapter to change the mono output of the external speaker jack to a 
stereo plug (the computer speakers will work on only one channel if the 
stereo plug is used in the external speaker jack because the ring on the 
plug will be shorted to the shell).

73,
Don W3FPR

2rGarry wrote:
> The speaker audio seems a trifle low on my K2.  With headphones it's good but
> I have to crank the volume control quite high to get decent audio output
> from the speaker.  I suspect that the audio is just as designed. Is that
> typically the case with the K2?  Or should I be looking for a problem?  As I
> said, with the headphones there is no issue whatsoever, I can feed audio to
> the headset and to the computer input (for psk) with no problem by just
> using the headphone jack and a splitter.
>
> I'm wondering if I need to build an amplified speaker for monitoring without
> having to wear the headphones.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Garry -- K2 6849
>   
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 + kpa100/kat100 Power problem

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

The wattmeter in the KPA100 is not signaling the output power back to 
the base K2 microprocessor.  The most common cause is damaged diodes in 
the wattmeter.  To assure yourself that this is the case, remove the 
KPA100 and run only the base K2 - if the base K2 can control power 
properly, the problem is in the KPA100.

Check diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100, and while you are at it, you may 
as well get 4 of the 2N5711 diodes and replace the 2 in the KAT100 as 
well.  Then for the future, make resolve to disconnect the antennas when 
not in use.  The most probable cause of failure is a surge from 
lightning or even rain/snow/wind static that caused the diodes to be 
damaged.

There are a few other possible causes of that kind of failure, but check 
the diodes first, and if the diodes are good, ask again and we can guide 
you to the real failure spot.

73,
Don W3FPR

DAVID Nachbaur wrote:
> Hello all I have  the K2 with the KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2 case and running 
> that configuration. I get full power out of the unit on all bands but 
> anything above the 10 watts is automatic 100 watts. there is now in between 
> The display does show any setting that I want. for example I can dial up 50 
> watts. but it will be 100 watts or 30 watts  I still have 100 watts as I 
> scale up throught the range of the power control. Any suggestions where I 
> should start. I did check my cables and all seems to be ok I have it running 
> through my logging program ok. So frequency and mode control are working ok.
>
> Thanks
>
> David KR4OW
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Want to buy a K3

[John W2XS]

You will get many opinions on this.  Here's mine.  I am primarily a CW
operator but I like to listen to AM BCB and Shortwave stations.  My antenna
is a multi-band Cobra Ultralite fed with ladder line and a Balun Designs 4:1
Tuner Balun.

1. KAT3 Tuner.  If you have matched, coax-fed antennas, then you may not
need this.  But it is a great addition to those of us with multi-band
antennas.  It remembers the settings on small segments of each band which is
incredibly convenient for QSYing, especially on 160m.

2. KBPF3 General Coverage Filter.  If you stick only to the ham bands, then
you may not need this.  But it was on my "must-have" list (as was the KAT3).
I have all 100 memories filled with short-wave and AM BCB stations all over
the frequency spectrum. I've been listening to Radio China and Radio Cairo a
lot lately.

3. KPA3 100W Amplifier.  Many people start out with the 10W option.  I have
had a lot of success with the K2 at 10W.  But I wanted the K3 to be my "QRO"
rig as it replaced a Kenwood TS-930S (which is a fine but aging rig).

4. KRX3 Sub receiver.  I added this after a year and find it is incredible
for working split-frequency DX stations.  I cannot see ever going back to
the "push the TF Set" button days to try and figure out where the heck the
DX station is listening. If you are not a DXer, or don't care about
diversity reception, etc, then you may not need this.

5. Filters. This was (and is) a hot topic.  But I stand by my initial
decision, which was:

A. 200 and 500 Hz 5-pole filters.  There was an early posting that said that
only the first 30 dB of slope is critical, and that a 5-pole filter would be
more than enough. I went with that, and am happy.  There probably is some
(small and subtle?) difference between the 5-pole and 8-pole performance,
but the main purpose of a roofing filter is to prevent the DSP (the main
selectivity in the rig) from overloading. Signals are generally weak right
now, but will start to get stronger as conditions improve.  It is amazing,
though, to crank that knob down to 500 and then to 200 and know that there
is no chance for any out-of-bandpass signal to get through.

B. 2.7 kHz SSB filter.  This comes standard.  This is the only filter that I
have in the sub receiver right now. I based that decision on wanting to hear
a wide bandpass most of the time to hear the station that the DX is working.

C. AM filter.  This is a little bit disappointing to me as I thought that I
would use this a lot.  But I almost never use it. Unless you are interested
in AM transmission or ESSB transmission, you might skip this one.

D. FM filter. This is the one that I use for all my AM listening. I wish
they offered a less-expensive filter for receiving only.

You can always buy the minimum configuration now and add later. A real big
advantage of the K3 over most other rigs today is the roofing filter
concept, and signals will be getting stronger as conditions improve, so
think about getting at least one or two optional roofing filters to start
with. 

Good luck and 73,

John W2XS


What elective boards should I consider purchasing to enhance the
functionality of the K3. 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Want-to-buy-a-K3-tp4287275p4288261.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] T1: can I switch into TUNE with the K2's tune button?

[Dr. Werner Furlan]

I have built the T1, and find it an amazing instrument. I would like to 
use it also with the K2, which in my case has no QRP tuner built in, 
because there is no room left, I decided to build the SCS Ptc-2 into the 
rig instead of the battery and tuner. 
I would like to switch the T1 into tune mode without using the Tune button 
of the T1, but instead use the Tune button of the K2. 
Is this possible somehow? I think there is the possiblity to switch the T1 
to Tune with the remote jack. But how do I get the appropriate signal out 
of the K2?

TIA , 

73! de Werner OE9FWV

-- 
Madness takes its toll. Please have exact change.


Email powered by Pegasus Mail free at 
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[Elecraft] Types of operation

[W4PV]

Hello,

Several have requested to know my operating whelms. I operate mostly SSB, some 
contests, DXing, general listening on and off of the ham bands, and enjoy the 
upper bands mostly when they are open otherwise 160, 80, and 40. My antennas 
include a 4 sq. for 80 m and 40 m, stacked 204BA' on 20, a stack of 3 5e. 155 
BA's for 15, 3e WARAC yagi, and a shunt fed tower for 160m, plus various 
receive antennas.

Patrick, W4PV 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Yamaha 'phones specs: has the world gone mad?

[Jim Brown]

On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 12:22:07 -0800 (PST), Paul, PD0PSB, wrote:

>No Doug, the world has not gone mad :-)

>What you seem to overlook is that reproduction (even in communications)
>has to be linear.

Exactly right, Paul. The late Dick Heyser, inventor of Time Delay 
Spectrometry, among other things, and an engineer working on 
communications for the space program at JPL, once said that "describing 
a system using only its frequency response was like trying to write 
poetry with a single word in your vocabulary." The same could be said 
about antennas and SWR. 

The numbers for frequency response in the original post failed to 
include one of the post important parts of the response spec -- the 
TOLERANCE in +/-dB for the stated response.

Furthermore, bandwidth is limited within the K3 by a lowpass filter at 
the output of the DSP, AND there is a "graphic" equalizer within the DSP 
that you can access with RXEQ and set as you like for your ears, 
loudspeakers, and headphones. 

FWIW, I always use top quality high fidelity headphones with my ham 
rigs, including my K3s, and I'm quite pleased with the result. The only 
time I was happy was with a Ten Tec Omni V, which lacked the low pass 
filter, and thus sounded "hissy." The headphones in my shack are Sony 
MDR7506 and MDRV-6, Yamaha CM500 (for when I want a boom mic), Etymotic 
Research ER4, and two Shure in-ear models. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] K3 PLL Error Display

[Roy Morris]

When I power up my K3/100/KRX3, the secondary VFO display momentarily displays 
ERR PL1 or ERR PL2 and goes back to the VFO frequency display.  I have just 
completed the synthesizer calibration procedure, and it still displays these 
error notices.  However, if I tap DISP I get what looks like good PLL voltages 
on all bands on both PLL 1 and PLL 2.  On occasion I might see a zero reading 
on a PLL voltage.  When the radio warms up I don't see these PLL 1 and PLL 2  
error displays.Should I reposition the KREF3 and KSYN3 boards into their 
sockets again?  Should I reposition the TMP cables again to correct this 
condition?  I did the KSYN3 mod by placing a 180K resistor in parallel with SMD 
resistor R10 on both KSYN3 boards to get a higher minimum VCO current.  I also 
wonder if this might be an ESD problem in the hamshack.  I would appreciate any 
responses.  Thanks.  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[James Sarte]

I got it.  Tnx for the clarification!

73 de James K2QI

-Original Message-
From: Lyle Johnson [mailto:k...@wavecable.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 3:34 PM
To: James Sarte
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note


> Can you guys expound on this a bit more?...
RxEQ 1 and 2 work.  One has to set LO CUT to 0.00, as before.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 -- Audio output

[Ross Primrose]

On 1/11/10 3:18 PM, 2rGarry wrote:
> The speaker audio seems a trifle low on my K2.  With headphones it's good but
> I have to crank the volume control quite high to get decent audio output
> from the speaker.
>

I've had some issues with mine where sometimes when I unplug the 
external speaker, the jack doesn't make a good contact, plugging in and 
removing the external speaker usually fixes the problem...

73, Ross N4RP

-- 
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[Lyle Johnson]

> Can you guys expound on this a bit more?...
RxEQ 1 and 2 work.  One has to set LO CUT to 0.00, as before.


73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy a K3

[Charles R.Tropp]

Well, that all depends on what your interests are. I bought my K3 about 1 year 
ago having been QRT for many years. At first I thought I would operate QRP so I 
didn't initially purchase the 100W option. Later I decided that I wanted 100 
Watts so I added that option. I mostly work CW or Digital Modes so I didn't 
bother to buy the FM and AM filters but I did buy the 400 and 250 8 pole 
filters which are simply great. If you like SSB you might want to look into the 
Digital Voice Recorder. Are you into contesting? If so consider buying the 
sub-receiver so that you can listen in two places at the same time! Great idea. 
Are you interested in listening on the non-ham shortwave bands? Then get the 
general coverage receive option. How about your antenna. Does it need a tuner 
to operate effectively? Then by all means get the automatic internal ATU which 
comes with a second antenna input. Do you need 2 Meters? Then consider buying 
the internal 2 meter module with the
 required interface. The beauty of the K3 is that it can be made to your 
specific requirements and you certainly don't have to get all the options at 
once. Try them one at a time! If you are at all handy and like putting things 
together then you should consider getting the kit instead of the assembled 
version. I can't begin to tell you of the immense sense of accomplishment you 
will experience when you flip the switch and have the K3 come alive. 

73, N2SO

Charles R. Tropp





From: W4PV 
To: elecraft 
Sent: Mon, January 11, 2010 1:35:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Want to buy a K3

Hello,

I am considering purchasing a K3 but looking on the web site dizzies my head 
with all the available extras. What elective boards should I consider 
purchasing to enhance the functionality of the K3. This unit will go with my 
ageing FT1000MP.

Thank you,

Patrick, W4PV
Tennessee  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[Steve Ellington]

Don't worry about it. I got tangled up in with the LO CUT settings. 
Something must have changed when I updated the firmware for the new board 
but I lost track of what it was!

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "James Sarte" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note


> Can you guys expound on this a bit more? I've ordered but yet to receive 
> my
> DSP upgrade board.  What is meant by RX EQ bands 1 and 2 no longer 
> function
> with the new board?
>
> Curious in NY...
> James K2QI
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ellington
> Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 12:48 PM
> To: w...@w5ov.com
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note
>
> Bummer...The whole idea of this upgrade was to boost bass but instead, 
> it's
> been reduced.
>
> Steve
> N4LQ
> n...@carolina.rr.com
> - Original Message - 
> From: 
> To: "Steve Ellington" 
> Cc: 
> Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 11:47 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note
>
>
>> Yes - I see the same thing.
>>
>> W5OV
>>
>>
>>
>>> After the installation of the new Rev. D DSPUPG board, RX EQ bands 1 and
>>> 2
>>> no longer function. It's like being back before the FW upgrade that
>>> activated those bands. I've sent a note to Elecraft support about this.
>>> Has
>>> anyone else noticed this?
>>> Yes I've loaded the newest FW revs. Twice.
>>> Steve
>>> N4LQ
>>> n...@carolina.rr.com
>>>
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
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>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> 
> 
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 
> 01/11/10
> 02:35:00
>
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 01/11/10 
02:35:00

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[Elecraft] k2 + kpa100/kat100 Power problem

[DAVID Nachbaur]

Hello all I have  the K2 with the KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2 case and running that 
configuration. I get full power out of the unit on all bands but anything above 
the 10 watts is automatic 100 watts. there is now in between The display does 
show any setting that I want. for example I can dial up 50 watts. but it will 
be 100 watts or 30 watts  I still have 100 watts as I scale up throught the 
range of the power control. Any suggestions where I should start. I did check 
my cables and all seems to be ok I have it running through my logging program 
ok. So frequency and mode control are working ok.

Thanks

David KR4OW
  
_
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390707/direct/01/
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 -- Audio output

[Gregg R. Lengling]

Disable the AGC and see if the volume goes up quite a bit, if it does 
then the AGC voltage set point is not set proper, go thru that part of 
the alignment again.

Gregg, W9DHI


2rGarry wrote:
> The speaker audio seems a trifle low on my K2.  With headphones it's good but
> I have to crank the volume control quite high to get decent audio output
> from the speaker.  I suspect that the audio is just as designed. Is that
> typically the case with the K2?  Or should I be looking for a problem?  As I
> said, with the headphones there is no issue whatsoever, I can feed audio to
> the headset and to the computer input (for psk) with no problem by just
> using the headphone jack and a splitter.
>
> I'm wondering if I need to build an amplified speaker for monitoring without
> having to wear the headphones.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Garry -- K2 6849
>   


-- 
Gregg Lengling W9DHI
http://forums-ham.radio.ch Administrator

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[James Sarte]

Can you guys expound on this a bit more? I've ordered but yet to receive my
DSP upgrade board.  What is meant by RX EQ bands 1 and 2 no longer function
with the new board?

Curious in NY...
James K2QI

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ellington
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 12:48 PM
To: w...@w5ov.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

Bummer...The whole idea of this upgrade was to boost bass but instead, it's 
been reduced.

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: 
To: "Steve Ellington" 
Cc: 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note


> Yes - I see the same thing.
>
> W5OV
>
>
>
>> After the installation of the new Rev. D DSPUPG board, RX EQ bands 1 and 
>> 2
>> no longer function. It's like being back before the FW upgrade that
>> activated those bands. I've sent a note to Elecraft support about this.
>> Has
>> anyone else noticed this?
>> Yes I've loaded the newest FW revs. Twice.
>> Steve
>> N4LQ
>> n...@carolina.rr.com
>>
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
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>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>
>







No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 01/11/10 
02:35:00

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Doug Turnbull]

Thankfully Elecraft has a limited number of products which they continue to
support in a far more active way than any other manufacturer.   I too have
sometimes thought that a larger radio would be nice but then there are
advantages to the present size.  There is no harm in our passing on dreams
but lets be thankful that the K3 continues to develop.   It seems Paul that
you and the rest of us are largely in agreement on this point.   The K3 was
one of the best purchasing decisions this old goat has ever made.  Now I
await the P3 and then the radio will have grown in size - Hi Hi.

  73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Christensen
Sent: 11 January 2010 20:09
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

> I find the K3 pretty much the ideal size for my
> purposes. The front panel is not cluttered but
> comprehensive enough that there is little need
> for daily changes to menu items.

In the future, hopefully we'll see detachable front panels where a small or
large stand-alone panel format cold be purchased as an option, depending on 
user operating conditions.  For
base use, a panel loaded with extra buttons could be used to bring secondary
functions onto their own button (e.g., "A=>B" and "SPLIT").  Then, when its
time to operate portable, detach the panel and take the base K3 unit into 
the field (or mobile) using a smaller panel.

In the case of the TS-480, Kenwood accomplishes functionality of all 
controls, menus and buttons on one 57 kbps serial buss.  This makes it easy 
for its owners to detach the control panel and plug it into a serial-to-USB 
port so that the TS-480 panel can be plugged right into a notebook PC.  It's

great having access to a real panel with VFO to spin while operating 
Internet remote.

In the case of the K3, I haven't looked much at the panel connectivity but 
it should be possible to simply detach the K3 front panel and insert a 
black-faced front onto it with say an RJ-45 for the convenience of Ethernet 
cabling.  The cable would then connect on the other end to the control panel

size of your choice or to a serial-to-USB converter (as in the TS-480 
example) to take a panel with you and run remote.

I have to believe that if demand were strong enough, Elecraft could quickly 
whip-up an optional black panel for the K3 as well as a choice of small and 
large stand-alone panels.  The small panel could leverage what's already 
available on the current panel.

I'll go on record for ordering the first complete set!

Paul, W9AC



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Yamaha 'phones specs: has the world gone mad?

[pd0psb]

No Doug, the world has not gone mad :-)

What you seem to overlook is that reproduction (even in communications) has
to be linear.
Be it from 50-8000Hz or from 300-2700Hz or 400-600Hz, that's not important.
Within the chosen passband response,filters and transducers should be linear
for faithfull reproduction of signals.

If you buy a radio with variable bandpass and TX/RX EQ, the headset 
shouldn't limit your options.
And a 20-2Hz headphone *may* perform better at linearity...

73'
Paul
PD0PSB







DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
> 
> After all of the discussion on here about "WHY" some guys might
> perceive "noise" where others do not, why are 'phones with these specs
> even being considered for a K3 (unless your own hearing cuts off at
> 4kc).
> 
> 
> Frequency Range
> 20 Hz - 20 kHz
> 
> Microphone Type
> Dynamic
> 
> Mic Frequency Response
> 100 Hz - 20 kHz
> 
> Impedance
> Headset: 120 Ohms
> Microphone: 600 Ohms
> 
> Give me 'phones designed for "communication" any day of the week (EG:
> Kenwood HS-5, which is what I've have used for ham radio for "ever").
> 
> de Doug KR2Q
> __
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] [K2] K2 -- Audio output

[2rGarry]

The speaker audio seems a trifle low on my K2.  With headphones it's good but
I have to crank the volume control quite high to get decent audio output
from the speaker.  I suspect that the audio is just as designed. Is that
typically the case with the K2?  Or should I be looking for a problem?  As I
said, with the headphones there is no issue whatsoever, I can feed audio to
the headset and to the computer input (for psk) with no problem by just
using the headphone jack and a splitter.

I'm wondering if I need to build an amplified speaker for monitoring without
having to wear the headphones.

Thanks.

Garry -- K2 6849
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K2-Audio-output-tp4287879p4287879.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Paul Christensen]

> I find the K3 pretty much the ideal size for my
> purposes. The front panel is not cluttered but
> comprehensive enough that there is little need
> for daily changes to menu items.

In the future, hopefully we'll see detachable front panels where a small or
large stand-alone panel format cold be purchased as an option, depending on 
user operating conditions.  For
base use, a panel loaded with extra buttons could be used to bring secondary
functions onto their own button (e.g., "A=>B" and "SPLIT").  Then, when its
time to operate portable, detach the panel and take the base K3 unit into 
the field (or mobile) using a smaller panel.

In the case of the TS-480, Kenwood accomplishes functionality of all 
controls, menus and buttons on one 57 kbps serial buss.  This makes it easy 
for its owners to detach the control panel and plug it into a serial-to-USB 
port so that the TS-480 panel can be plugged right into a notebook PC.  It's 
great having access to a real panel with VFO to spin while operating 
Internet remote.

In the case of the K3, I haven't looked much at the panel connectivity but 
it should be possible to simply detach the K3 front panel and insert a 
black-faced front onto it with say an RJ-45 for the convenience of Ethernet 
cabling.  The cable would then connect on the other end to the control panel 
size of your choice or to a serial-to-USB converter (as in the TS-480 
example) to take a panel with you and run remote.

I have to believe that if demand were strong enough, Elecraft could quickly 
whip-up an optional black panel for the K3 as well as a choice of small and 
large stand-alone panels.  The small panel could leverage what's already 
available on the current panel.

I'll go on record for ordering the first complete set!

Paul, W9AC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP

[Igor Sokolov]

Expert can sense the frequency from RF input (like ACOM2000) or get 
frequency information from the radio via RS232. It is your choice how you 
configure that. I think one can download the Expert manual from the site and 
read it all there.

73, Igor UA9CDC
>
> Gentelmen,
>I am considering the Expert amplifier because of instant turnon, 
> smaller size and reduced weight.   Does the Expert amplifier require a tie 
> in to the transceiver other than RF input and key out to determine which 
> frequency to tune to?   The ACOM 2000A does this automatically sensing the 
> frequency from the RF Input and there is not need for an interveing PC. 
> Is it the case that the Expert amplifier needs a separate input defining 
> the operating frequency and band?
>
>73 Doug
>
> On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 16:17:23 -0800 (PST), "Len,  K3LJ" 
>  wrote:
>>
>> Richard, If you go to Yahoo groups, there a group for the Elecraft K3 and
>> one
>> for the Expert Amp. I believe in both of them in the files section there
>> is
>> a drawing for configuring the cabling for the K3 the Expert Amp and your
>> computer. From what I see in the K3's manual and the Expert Amp manual it
>> looks pretty good. I am in the process of obtaining the parts to build 
>> one
>> now.
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> 73,  Len  K3LJ
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard Thorpe wrote:
>>>
>>> Is anyone using the K3 with the SPE Expert amplifier? if so how do
>>> they integrate the two with computer control?
>>>
>>> R Thorpe AC9D
>>> __
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>>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-SPE-Expert-AMP-tp4281796p4283184.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[westalto]

Prior to the advent of , first, the K2 and then the K3 

I owned my share of "huge" radios which almost 

required two men and a small boy to move. 

(well I exaggerate ) and I well remember having to 

hand carry a TS-930 through the length of the 

St. Louis airport on my way to KP4...not a lot of 

fun! 



I find the K3 pretty  much the ideal size for my 

purposes. The front panel is not cluttered but 

comprehensive enough that there is little need 

for daily changes to menu items. 



Doug, W6JD 

K2 #1626, K3 #23 


- Original Message - 
From: "Rick Dettinger "  
To: "Dick Williams"  
Cc: Elecraft @mailman. qth .net 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 11:17:19 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [ Elecraft ] K3 how often do you use it? 

I am glad that my K3 doesn't weight in excess of 50 lbs.  I have to   
carry it up a "ships" ladder into my shack, which is in a loft.  One   
hand for the ladder and one for the K3.  I do this several times a   
year to update the firmware. 

73, 
Rick Dettinger   K7MW 


On Jan 11, 2010, at 10:21 AM, Dick Williams wrote: 

> 
> I beg to differ with who stated that "most" hams want large radios   
> and find 
> the ergonomics and packaging of the K3 to be less than desirable. 
> 
> First,  not every ham wants a "boat anchor" box that takes up half the 
> operating position and weights in excess of 50 lbs. 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Lee Buller]

I cannot believe the threads we get here

The K3 is my main
station.  I used it along for rag chew...Dxing...and contesting.  It
runs SSB - CW - PSK - RTTY.  It feeds a AL82 and a lot of antennas on a
city lot.  Again, it is my main rig.  I have no Y or K or I or T in the
shack.  I do have a K2 because I love the rig.  I also have a Knight
T-50, a Drake 2B, and a HQ-110.  I use the K3 for everything.  It never
moves off the desk.  If I want to set a parameter...I used the menus or
a computer program.  It is not hard.  I find the rig perfect in size. 
I pound on this rig weekly. (read: use it regularly if you cannot
understand idioms.  Don't think I have a hammer in the shack whacking
on it each week.)

If you want buttonsget a Y or K or I or T ... but I
am happy with all the features of the K3...and it has ... I repeat ...
has gotten better since I got in two years ago.  It has great
buttons...very sexy! :>)

The K3 is the best I have used.

Now...if
you want no knobs...or menus...go buy and old TT Triton IV.  Now that
was skimpy with knobs and buttons.  Don't forget to get a external VFO
for split.

Lee - K0WA
... _._



 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some
Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for
help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  J. Wolf
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Rick Dettinger]

I am glad that my K3 doesn't weight in excess of 50 lbs.  I have to  
carry it up a "ships" ladder into my shack, which is in a loft.  One  
hand for the ladder and one for the K3.  I do this several times a  
year to update the firmware.

73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW


On Jan 11, 2010, at 10:21 AM, Dick Williams wrote:

>
> I beg to differ with who stated that "most" hams want large radios  
> and find
> the ergonomics and packaging of the K3 to be less than desirable.
>
> First,  not every ham wants a "boat anchor" box that takes up half the
> operating position and weights in excess of 50 lbs.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HI-TEMP ALARM

[Don Wilhelm]

Atsu,

Try re-calibrating the PA Temperature Sensor as described in the manual.
Also make certain both fans are turning.

73,
Don w3FPR

JE1TRV wrote:
> Hi Elecrafters!
>
> I have problem on my K3/100 (S/N3050, factory assembled).
> When I transmit more than 12W(means hi power amp on)
>  within about 30min after mains power on, HI-TEMP alarm
> occur and equipment is forced to set 5W.
>
> No problem at all when hi-power amp is through ( Po<12W ).
>
> Any idea?
> Thanks in advance
> 73, Atsu JE1TRV
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Hector Padron]

"Lastly, I think the majority of K3 owners use their radio more than 5 times
a year.  The K3 is not for the "everyday, get on the air and rag chew with
the guy in the next state" amateur.  The K3 is targeting DXers and
contesters, and I think they are on more than a few times a year.  I use my
radio every day, and in fact it is on 24/7."

Can anyone with one of those boat anchors can do this:
Two nights ago on 40M there was a station from Africa calling cq with a signal 
of about 57 on SSB and I wanted to work him but just 2Khz below there was a net 
with lots of stations,most of them 59+20db,you know how bad QRM is that for 
sure,well,not a problem for a K3,moved down the WIDTH to 1.8 engaged the 1.8Khz 
roofer as well,moved to the left the SHIFT,to reach the 1.0 spot and what 
happened? the net and ALL of their users were completely GONE and the dx 
station was coming cristal clear,end of the story I worked the African station 
nice and easy.
That is why I use my K3 every single day of the year at least 5 to 6 
hours,period !
 
AD4C




"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Mon, 1/11/10, Dick Williams  wrote:


From: Dick Williams 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 6:21 PM



I beg to differ with who stated that "most" hams want large radios and find
the ergonomics and packaging of the K3 to be less than desirable.
  
First,  not every ham wants a "boat anchor" box that takes up half the
operating position and weights in excess of 50 lbs.  Granted there is a
certain "niche" market of guys that feel the "bigger the better"; but I
don't know as if that is the majority.  Sure, there are tradeoffs when you
reduce the size of anything; and closer spaced buttons and knobs is one of
them with a smaller footprint radio.  I just took a good look at the
keyboard on my cell phone;  it has 41 buttons in a 1" by 4" space.  I see
kids texting a "mile a minute" and never missing a beat on those keyboards;
the K3 has 46 in a 4" by 10 3/4" space;  think how much smaller they could
make the K3!

What is the "psyche" of "most" hams?  And what "more" knobs do we all need
(with possible exception of one to "null out" the XYL when she is yelling at
us to come to dinner when we are trying to work some rare DX)?  What is the
matter with the front panel now?  In the past I owned a Orion I, II, Yaesu
Ft-1000D, 1000D Mark V, and numerous Drake and Heath equipment.  I would not
say their front panels were any better (or worse) than the K3.  I would
agree that some of the Yaesu and Icom radios (with all their color displays
and flashing lights, bells, and whistles) might look "cool"; but at what
expense and does it really improve the performance of the radio?

Just because the K3 does not fit with one individuals perception of what the
radio should be, does not mean that Elecraft is listening to the wrong
people.  They are listening to the guys that want a small, light radio that
will outperform, or is certainly on par with any other out there (regardless
of size).  And it is a radio that we can take apart without having to worry
about "voiding the warranty", one we can replace parts and boards if need
be, and if does need to be returned to Aptos, it will not cost a small
fortune to do so.  

Lastly, I think the majority of K3 owners use their radio more than 5 times
a year.  The K3 is not for the "everyday, get on the air and rag chew with
the guy in the next state" amateur.  The K3 is targeting DXers and
contesters, and I think they are on more than a few times a year.  I use my
radio every day, and in fact it is on 24/7.

This is my "2 cents worth".

Dick  K8ZTT






On Jan 9, 2010, at 5:41 PM, Randy Downs wrote:

> I fellow said "Elecrafts ergonomics and packaging is not appealing  
> enough for most people despite its receiver performance. They could  
> fix it by putting the K3 into a bigger box with a decent front  
> panel and more knobs, but they wont. They wont because they are  
> listening to the wrong people who dont have a clue about marketing  
> and who dont understand the psyche of most everyday hams. Hedging  
> your bets on a small group of hams who turn their radios maybe 5  
> times a year while ignoring those who use a radio probably every  
> second day is not wise."
> in a message to me. I guess now the question becomes, how often do  
> you use your K3? I use mine at least 10 hours a week. We need a  
> poll I guess.
> Randy
> K8RDD



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Re: [Elecraft] QRe: K3 K3DSPUPG note

[Lyle Johnson]

> Believe meEQ 1 and 2 are totally dead!
Be sure LO CUT is set to 0.00 and not 0.10.

I just re-verified RxEQ1 and RxEQ2 work great on the new DSP board under 
these conditions, which are the same as before.  The K3 "default" 
behavior is to cut off low frequency audio unless you deliberately shift 
LO CUT (see firmware release notes for MCU 3.41/DSP 2.37 10-02-2009).

73,

Lyle KK7P

PS - I am using the latest pre-beta firmware, which I can send you 
directly if you wish.  It has no intentional changes in low frequency 
response beyond the current public beta firmware.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Yamaha 'phones specs: has the world gone mad?

[Wes Stewart]

We've been through this before.  Where have you been?

--- On Mon, 1/11/10, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL  wrote:

From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL 
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Yamaha 'phones specs: has the world gone mad?
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 11:10 AM

After all of the discussion on here about "WHY" some guys might
perceive "noise" where others do not, why are 'phones with these specs
even being considered for a K3 (unless your own hearing cuts off at
4kc).


Frequency Range
    20 Hz - 20 kHz

Microphone Type
    Dynamic

Mic Frequency Response
    100 Hz - 20 kHz

Impedance
    Headset: 120 Ohms
    Microphone: 600 Ohms

Give me 'phones designed for "communication" any day of the week (EG:
Kenwood HS-5, which is what I've have used for ham radio for "ever").

de Doug KR2Q
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[Elecraft] Want to buy a K3

[W4PV]

Hello,

I am considering purchasing a K3 but looking on the web site dizzies my head 
with all the available extras. What elective boards should I consider 
purchasing to enhance the functionality of the K3. This unit will go with my 
ageing FT1000MP.

Thank you,

Patrick, W4PV
Tennessee  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP

[Benny Aumala]

Try here:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Expertamp/files/

Benny   OH9NB


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Thorpe
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 11:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP

Is anyone using the K3 with the SPE Expert amplifier? if so how do  
they integrate the two with computer control?

R Thorpe AC9D

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Dick Williams]

I beg to differ with who stated that "most" hams want large radios and find
the ergonomics and packaging of the K3 to be less than desirable.
  
First,  not every ham wants a "boat anchor" box that takes up half the
operating position and weights in excess of 50 lbs.  Granted there is a
certain "niche" market of guys that feel the "bigger the better"; but I
don't know as if that is the majority.  Sure, there are tradeoffs when you
reduce the size of anything; and closer spaced buttons and knobs is one of
them with a smaller footprint radio.  I just took a good look at the
keyboard on my cell phone;  it has 41 buttons in a 1" by 4" space.  I see
kids texting a "mile a minute" and never missing a beat on those keyboards;
the K3 has 46 in a 4" by 10 3/4" space;  think how much smaller they could
make the K3!

What is the "psyche" of "most" hams?  And what "more" knobs do we all need
(with possible exception of one to "null out" the XYL when she is yelling at
us to come to dinner when we are trying to work some rare DX)?  What is the
matter with the front panel now?  In the past I owned a Orion I, II, Yaesu
Ft-1000D, 1000D Mark V, and numerous Drake and Heath equipment.  I would not
say their front panels were any better (or worse) than the K3.  I would
agree that some of the Yaesu and Icom radios (with all their color displays
and flashing lights, bells, and whistles) might look "cool"; but at what
expense and does it really improve the performance of the radio?

Just because the K3 does not fit with one individuals perception of what the
radio should be, does not mean that Elecraft is listening to the wrong
people.  They are listening to the guys that want a small, light radio that
will outperform, or is certainly on par with any other out there (regardless
of size).  And it is a radio that we can take apart without having to worry
about "voiding the warranty", one we can replace parts and boards if need
be, and if does need to be returned to Aptos, it will not cost a small
fortune to do so.  

Lastly, I think the majority of K3 owners use their radio more than 5 times
a year.  The K3 is not for the "everyday, get on the air and rag chew with
the guy in the next state" amateur.  The K3 is targeting DXers and
contesters, and I think they are on more than a few times a year.  I use my
radio every day, and in fact it is on 24/7.

This is my "2 cents worth".

Dick  K8ZTT






On Jan 9, 2010, at 5:41 PM, Randy Downs wrote:

> I fellow said "Elecrafts ergonomics and packaging is not appealing  
> enough for most people despite its receiver performance. They could  
> fix it by putting the K3 into a bigger box with a decent front  
> panel and more knobs, but they wont. They wont because they are  
> listening to the wrong people who dont have a clue about marketing  
> and who dont understand the psyche of most everyday hams. Hedging  
> your bets on a small group of hams who turn their radios maybe 5  
> times a year while ignoring those who use a radio probably every  
> second day is not wise."
> in a message to me. I guess now the question becomes, how often do  
> you use your K3? I use mine at least 10 hours a week. We need a  
> poll I guess.
> Randy
> K8RDD

 

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The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com
 

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[Elecraft] QRe: K3 K3DSPUPG note

[Steve Ellington]

Believe meEQ 1 and 2 are totally dead! They worked fine before the board 
upgrade. Audio does sound clean but I've got about the same amount of bass I 
had before the firmware change that enabled those eq bands.
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Lyle Johnson" 
To: "Steve Ellington" 
Cc: ; 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note


> Please contact Elecraft support.
>
> As the designer of the DSP code, and of the DSP board itself, including
> the latest, I am 100% certain that Rx EQ 1 and 2 function no differently
> in the new board.  Further, if you are using headphones, the the
> increase of coupling capacitor from 10 uF to 100 uF earlier this year
> improved the LF response on receive.  The new LPF board is DC-coupled in
> the signal path, so it has no reduction of LF response, either.
>
> 73,
>
> Lyle KK7P






No virus found in this incoming message.
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[Elecraft] OT: Yamaha 'phones specs: has the world gone mad?

[DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL]

After all of the discussion on here about "WHY" some guys might
perceive "noise" where others do not, why are 'phones with these specs
even being considered for a K3 (unless your own hearing cuts off at
4kc).


Frequency Range
20 Hz - 20 kHz

Microphone Type
Dynamic

Mic Frequency Response
100 Hz - 20 kHz

Impedance
Headset: 120 Ohms
Microphone: 600 Ohms

Give me 'phones designed for "communication" any day of the week (EG:
Kenwood HS-5, which is what I've have used for ham radio for "ever").

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[Lyle Johnson]

Please contact Elecraft support.

As the designer of the DSP code, and of the DSP board itself, including 
the latest, I am 100% certain that Rx EQ 1 and 2 function no differently 
in the new board.  Further, if you are using headphones, the the 
increase of coupling capacitor from 10 uF to 100 uF earlier this year 
improved the LF response on receive.  The new LPF board is DC-coupled in 
the signal path, so it has no reduction of LF response, either.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HI-TEMP ALARM

[OH1MA]

Hi

I have same problem, when shack temperature is below 17 degrees Celcius

When PA Temp is higher than 25 degrees C then power is OK.

Jaakko OH1MA / K3 ser. 2952


Hi Elecrafters!

I have problem on my K3/100 (S/N3050, factory assembled).
When I transmit more than 12W(means hi power amp on)
  within about 30min after mains power on, HI-TEMP alarm
occur and equipment is forced to set 5W.

No problem at all when hi-power amp is through ( Po<12W ).

Any idea?
Thanks in advance
73, Atsu JE1TRV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[Steve Ellington]

Bummer...The whole idea of this upgrade was to boost bass but instead, it's 
been reduced.

Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: 
To: "Steve Ellington" 
Cc: 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note


> Yes - I see the same thing.
>
> W5OV
>
>
>
>> After the installation of the new Rev. D DSPUPG board, RX EQ bands 1 and 
>> 2
>> no longer function. It's like being back before the FW upgrade that
>> activated those bands. I've sent a note to Elecraft support about this.
>> Has
>> anyone else noticed this?
>> Yes I've loaded the newest FW revs. Twice.
>> Steve
>> N4LQ
>> n...@carolina.rr.com
>>
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>>
>
>






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[Elecraft] K3 Blanking Noise Blanker is blanking everything

[Howard K2HK]

When using the NB, if the IF blanker is enabled at any setting, I lose most of 
the signal. The DSP blanker works as expected. What should I check? 
  
Howard..K2HK 



HK

  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with KDSP2 and KAF2?

[KM4VX]

I checked with the person selling the K-2 who says he has both the KDSP2 and
KAF2 installed in one K-2 and told him it is impossible. He said he is the
original owner of the radio, had both installed by ELECRAFT and has the
invoice to prove it. I told him to ask for a refund, since both cannot
occupy the same space at the same time. Einstein would be proud of me.

Sam Morgan-3 wrote:
> 
> I just saw a K2 listed for sale , it says with both the KDSP2 and the KAF2 
> installed. I thought you could only install one or the other, was I
> mistaken, 
> can you have both installed and working in a K2?
> -- 
> GB & 73
> K5OAI
> Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Eric Fitzgerald]

I use my K3 almost every day.  If it were in a bigger box I probably  
would not have bought it and gotten the Flex 3000 instead.  A small  
footprint was one of my requirements.  But then again coming from an  
FT-100D as my only HF radio, the K3 seems huge and to have a wealth  
of controls :-)

Another county heard from.

73 de Eric, KG6MZS


On Jan 9, 2010, at 5:41 PM, Randy Downs wrote:

> I fellow said "Elecrafts ergonomics and packaging is not appealing  
> enough for most people despite its receiver performance. They could  
> fix it by putting the K3 into a bigger box with a decent front  
> panel and more knobs, but they wont. They wont because they are  
> listening to the wrong people who dont have a clue about marketing  
> and who dont understand the psyche of most everyday hams. Hedging  
> your bets on a small group of hams who turn their radios maybe 5  
> times a year while ignoring those who use a radio probably every  
> second day is not wise."
> in a message to me. I guess now the question becomes, how often do  
> you use your K3? I use mine at least 10 hours a week. We need a  
> poll I guess.
> Randy
> K8RDD
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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV Side Panel for K3

[Stewart]

On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 17:12:52 +, David Pratt wrote:
> In a recent message, AD6XY  wrote ...
>>
>>If you need it to match ask yourself how hard is it to drill 3 
holes in a
>>panel?
>
I sometimes wonder if there is a living to be made out of offering
a  "Manual Reading" service...

73
Stewart G3RXQ
> Appliance operators might have difficulty with that ;-( 
 Remember, the
> radio amateur of today is not the same as the radio amateur of
> yesteryear.
>
> 73


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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40

[Jim Brown]

On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 11:47:11 -0500 (EST), w...@w5ov.com wrote:

>note: B&H is reputable and they will ship once they receive the stock.

>I have dealt with them for years in photo equipment and this is not
>uncommon for them to offer a low price and take a while to deliver

I too have done biz with B&H and found them to be a good vendor, and 
they are rated highly by a Consumer Reports survey. BUT:

I worked in sales of pro audio for quite a few years. Given that other 
retailers have the product in stock and B&H doesn't, I suspect some sort 
of problem between Yamaha and B&H. That can happen when a retailer 
violates some element of the agreement between retailer and mfr. 

73,

Jim K9YC




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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV Side Panel for K3

[David Pratt]

In a recent message, AD6XY  wrote ...
>
>If you need it to match ask yourself how hard is it to drill 3 holes in a
>panel?

Appliance operators might have difficulty with that ;-(  Remember, the 
radio amateur of today is not the same as the radio amateur of 
yesteryear.

73
-- 
David G4DMP
Leeds, England, UK
--



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 HI-TEMP ALARM

[Thomas Norff]

Atsu,

did you check the fans ?

Connect a power supply to your K3 and test the fans and KPAIO3 interface
control as follows:
- Press the POWER button to turn the K3 on.
- Hold CONFIG to select the Configuration menu, then turn VFO B to KPA3.
Normally, the display will
  indicate NOT INST (not installed).
- Turn the VFO A knob to PAIO ON, then turn it further to PAIO TST. When
moving between ON and
  TST, you should hear a relay click on the KPAIO3 board. If you don't,
press the K3 POWER button to
  switch it off, then on again and retry the test.
- Turn the VFO A knob on past TST to FN1, then FN2, FN3 and FN4. The
fans should start turning at
  FN1 and increase speed as you continue to FN4.
Turn the K3 off and disconnect the power supply.
--- 

73 de Thomas, DM7TN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of JE1TRV
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 3:14 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 HI-TEMP ALARM

Hi Elecrafters!

I have problem on my K3/100 (S/N3050, factory assembled).
When I transmit more than 12W(means hi power amp on)  within about 30min
after mains power on, HI-TEMP alarm occur and equipment is forced to set 5W.

No problem at all when hi-power amp is through ( Po<12W ).

Any idea?
Thanks in advance
73, Atsu JE1TRV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[w5ov]

Yes - I see the same thing.

W5OV



> After the installation of the new Rev. D DSPUPG board, RX EQ bands 1 and 2
> no longer function. It's like being back before the FW upgrade that
> activated those bands. I've sent a note to Elecraft support about this.
> Has
> anyone else noticed this?
> Yes I've loaded the newest FW revs. Twice.
> Steve
> N4LQ
> n...@carolina.rr.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40

[w5ov]

note: B&H is reputable and they will ship once they receive the stock.

I have dealt with them for years in photo equipment and this is not
uncommon for them to offer a low price and take a while to deliver on it.

73,

Bob W5OV

> I am very glad I decided to pay a little extra and ordered mine through
> Amazon in mid-December.  Had it by Christmas!
>
>
> Rick
> K6LE
>
>
> On 1/11/2010, at 5:50 , Hector Padron wrote:
>
>> I consider my order a lost,I made in November last year and I have sent
>> emails and always had same answes back: "still on backorder"
>>
>> AD4C
>>
>>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 HI-TEMP ALARM

[JE1TRV]

Hi Elecrafters!

I have problem on my K3/100 (S/N3050, factory assembled).
When I transmit more than 12W(means hi power amp on)
 within about 30min after mains power on, HI-TEMP alarm
occur and equipment is forced to set 5W.

No problem at all when hi-power amp is through ( Po<12W ).

Any idea?
Thanks in advance
73, Atsu JE1TRV
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (1/10/2010)

[Terry Schieler]

Miserable.  I too was blanked in my attempts to check in from Missouri
yesterday.  Could not hear net control at all or most other stations on
frequency either.  Two stations I heard booming in I asked for help with a
relay and received no response.  I figured the net wrapped up quickly and
was surprised to see this week's list of 40 some odd operators checked in.

Nice to see the list grow, even if I can't hear them.  Next week!

73,

Terry, W0FM

--___

Propagation was tough in Massachusetts.  I couldn't hear net control at 
all, and requested a relay to the net at large several times but no-one 
responded.  Oh well, I'll try again next week!

-- 
73,
Dick ka1oz
Middleborough, MA

Radio:  Elecraft K3/100(Kit) SN 859
Antenna:  Titan-DX



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[Elecraft] K3 popular firmware changes

[Mike K2MK]

I was thinking about the firmware changes that came out last year and there
was one that really stood out as improving the quality of my K3. It was the
feature that permits several choices of mixing the main and sub receivers
between left and right ears. My personal favorite is main in both ears and
sub in right ear in conjunction with using the SUB audio knob as a balance
control. 

73
Mike K2MK
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-popular-firmware-changes-tp4286466p4286466.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Hector Padron]

Oh yeah,put me on the list,I take any K3's from anyone's hand for a thousand 
bucks to have one more,after all they are so ugly and unefficient for 
contesting that they are valued down,right Luis? We in FL love to have them 
even been so bad.
 
AD4C
K3 # 2192 

"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Mon, 1/11/10, Lu Romero  wrote:


From: Lu Romero 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 4:01 PM


Let me be the first to congratulate "a fellow" on his choice
of competitive hardware!  

Damn, what sage advice!

Yes, a wise choice! Please, all you PVRC, YCCC and FRC
members! Dont *EVEN* consider an Elecraft K3 for your
contesting use and stay with your FT1000'ds, your Pro-2's,
your TS940's and your superlative IC-781's for competing
with your poor southern cousins in FCG, especially during
ARRL 10 Meters, SS and WPX.

For that matter, I strongly urge that *ALL* PVRC, YCCC and
FRC members switch *IMMEDIATELY* to the above rigs and sell
ALL of their K3 rigs to either DX stations or to NCCC or Mad
River members (maybe *THEN* they will then be able to hear
us from Florida).  

We might even allow you an additional couple of hundred
dollars above a used price to help you get rid of those K3's
as a "hardship" stipend so you can get those above mentioned
"high performance" rigs to work the WPX piles with.

Im sure my fellow FGC members would be happy to help take
those badly performing, hard to operate silly looking
Elecraft rigs off your hands immediately...  Its the least
we can do for you!  Southern Hospitality *REQUIRES* us to be
this nice to you!

Then, take the money and go out and buy some TS-570's with
the stock SSB filter and use them on CW in the next IARU,
Please

Lu - W4LT
Spotting you additional "difficulty factors" in contests
operating K3 #3192
Go FGC! - OJ's!


Message: 32
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 22:23:00 -0500
From: Guy Olinger K2AV 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?
To: ynkedra...@aol.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID:
   
<46f338981001101923q35375e04u92cfa048392c0...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Add PVRC to that list.  Even some of our mumble-grump
skeptics went to
K3's because they got their **s handed to them in a sling on
the low
bands when the competition started using K3 true diversity.

On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 9:41 PM,  
wrote:
> If FRC, YCCC and FCG members, are not among the Big Guns
in the US contest
scene, would "A fellow" please tell us who is?
>
> 73, K3YD


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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40

[Hector Padron]

That makes me always think "you get what you pay for" cheap stuff always bring 
problems,you was smarter than many of us.Good move for you,bad for us.enjoy 
them.
 
AD4C
 


"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Mon, 1/11/10, K6LE  wrote:


From: K6LE 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40
To: "Elecraft List" 
Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 3:59 PM


I am very glad I decided to pay a little extra and ordered mine through Amazon 
in mid-December.  Had it by Christmas!


Rick
K6LE


On 1/11/2010, at 5:50 , Hector Padron wrote:

> I consider my order a lost,I made in November last year and I have sent 
> emails and always had same answes back: "still on backorder"
>  
> AD4C
>  
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Is the K2 old technology

[Vic K2VCO]

Conway Yee wrote:

> The K2 is the state of the art in ONLY an extreme niche.  Specifically it
> is likely the highest performing hardware radio that is available for
> construction by a hobbyist from the component level.  Given technical
> advances in electronics, it is likely to remain the state of the art for
> the foreseeable future.

It is also state of the art in another niche, that of low-power-drain QRP 
contesting. The 
combination of performance and low power consumption hits the 'sweet spot' for 
Field Day 
1a battery class, for example.

There are radios that perform better and there are radios that consume less 
power, but the 
K2 is the perfect compromise in this regard. It is also big enough to operate 
without 
getting cramped but still reasonably small and lightweight. The KAT2 tuner adds 
almost no 
power consumption and is extremely flexible.

Even if I weren't sentimental about it --  I built it in 1999 and have made 
many mods over 
the years -- and although I have a better-performing K3, I'd never give it up.
-- 
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] K3 K3DSPUPG note

[Steve Ellington]

After the installation of the new Rev. D DSPUPG board, RX EQ bands 1 and 2 
no longer function. It's like being back before the FW upgrade that 
activated those bands. I've sent a note to Elecraft support about this. Has 
anyone else noticed this?
Yes I've loaded the newest FW revs. Twice.
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?

[Lu Romero]

Let me be the first to congratulate "a fellow" on his choice
of competitive hardware!  

Damn, what sage advice!

Yes, a wise choice! Please, all you PVRC, YCCC and FRC
members! Dont *EVEN* consider an Elecraft K3 for your
contesting use and stay with your FT1000'ds, your Pro-2's,
your TS940's and your superlative IC-781's for competing
with your poor southern cousins in FCG, especially during
ARRL 10 Meters, SS and WPX.

For that matter, I strongly urge that *ALL* PVRC, YCCC and
FRC members switch *IMMEDIATELY* to the above rigs and sell
ALL of their K3 rigs to either DX stations or to NCCC or Mad
River members (maybe *THEN* they will then be able to hear
us from Florida).  

We might even allow you an additional couple of hundred
dollars above a used price to help you get rid of those K3's
as a "hardship" stipend so you can get those above mentioned
"high performance" rigs to work the WPX piles with.

Im sure my fellow FGC members would be happy to help take
those badly performing, hard to operate silly looking
Elecraft rigs off your hands immediately...  Its the least
we can do for you!  Southern Hospitality *REQUIRES* us to be
this nice to you!

Then, take the money and go out and buy some TS-570's with
the stock SSB filter and use them on CW in the next IARU,
Please

Lu - W4LT
Spotting you additional "difficulty factors" in contests
operating K3 #3192
Go FGC! - OJ's!


Message: 32
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 22:23:00 -0500
From: Guy Olinger K2AV 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 how often do you use it?
To: ynkedra...@aol.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID:
   
<46f338981001101923q35375e04u92cfa048392c0...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Add PVRC to that list.  Even some of our mumble-grump
skeptics went to
K3's because they got their **s handed to them in a sling on
the low
bands when the competition started using K3 true diversity.

On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 9:41 PM,  
wrote:
> If FRC, YCCC and FCG members, are not among the Big Guns
in the US contest
scene, would "A fellow" please tell us who is?
>
> 73, K3YD


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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40

[K6LE]

I am very glad I decided to pay a little extra and ordered mine through Amazon 
in mid-December.  Had it by Christmas!


Rick
K6LE


On 1/11/2010, at 5:50 , Hector Padron wrote:

> I consider my order a lost,I made in November last year and I have sent 
> emails and always had same answes back: "still on backorder"
>  
> AD4C
>  
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV Side Panel for K3

[AD6XY]

If you need it to match ask yourself how hard is it to drill 3 holes in a
panel?
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K144XV-Side-Panel-for-K3-tp4285919p4286208.html
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Failure

[Matt Zilmer]

Did you try measuring the voltage at the 12V input of the KPA3?

matt W6NIA

On Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:50:04 +, you wrote:

>Has anyone had a KPA3 cause the display to show ERR 12 v?
>
>Power supply checks out normal as do the leads. The circuit breaker is in line 
>and does not drop out.
>
>Connections appear ok as does the antenna system which is resonant etc.
>
>When the error is displayed the K3 reverts to low power 12w out max.
>
>Resetting does not correct the fault, tried placing the KPA3 to bypass and all 
>works fine. Changed the setting to PA nor and the fault returns immediately.
>
>Support have been notified by e-mail bit thought I would ask the group if 
>anyone else has had this happen and if so, was it a KPA3 failure requiring 
>replacement. Of course the warranty has expired...(:-((
>
>73's
>Gary
>K3 #679
>Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV Side Panel for K3

[David Fleming]

The side panel that came with my K144XV is the textured powder coat style. My 
K3 has the smooth finish. There is a definite difference, but it's not 
noticeable with a casual glance. You would have to really examine it closely to 
notice the difference. Not an issue for me.

David, W4SMT

--- On Mon, 1/11/10, Roy Morris  wrote:

> The early K3 smooth paint coat is
> different from the current textured powder coat paint. 
> I wonder if Elecraft is making available the appropriately
> painted K3 side panel with the K144XV installation.  If
> not, it will not look the same.  Roy Morris 
> W4WFB

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[Elecraft] K144XV Side Panel for K3

[Roy Morris]

The early K3 smooth paint coat is different from the current textured powder 
coat paint.  I wonder if Elecraft is making available the appropriately painted 
K3 side panel with the K144XV installation.  If not, it will not look the same. 
 Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] Is the K2 old technology

[Conway Yee]

N8XMS writes:
>First, is the K2 "long in the tooth"?  Am I spending a significant
>amount of money on technology that is on it's way to being obsolete?

W9ILF writes:
>Much of it comes from the fact this reflector seems to be 95% K3 talk.

I've been thinking about this thread for awhile.  Is the K2 outdated
technology?  I would say yes almost without equivocation.

Ham radio in general is outdated.  I have a cellphone in my pocket that
has <<1 watt output and gives CONFIDENT point-to-point communication
around the world under virtually all reasonable circumstances.  The
Internet also gives much more convenient worldwide communication.  The
only advantage ham radio has in communication in the absence of
intervening infrastructure.

The construction of the K2 is also outdated technology.  The IC choices
are now increasingly difficult to find (in any form factor as the designs
themselves are getting discontinued).  SMT is now the norm in industry and
DIP is outdated.  Software defined radio rather than hardware is now
becoming the norm.

The K2 is the state of the art in ONLY an extreme niche.  Specifically it
is likely the highest performing hardware radio that is available for
construction by a hobbyist from the component level.  Given technical
advances in electronics, it is likely to remain the state of the art for
the foreseeable future.

As far as maintainability, I see no insurmountable challenges. After all,
there are Model T and Delorean clubs keeping those cars on the road.  With
the Internet available, communication with enthusiasts are easier than
with newsletters (e.g. FoxTango).  Elecraft is too small a company to
manufacture any part that is not easily reversed engineered.  Sooner or
later nearly all the DIP IC's will be not available on the market.  At
this point, since the technology used in the K2 was relatively generic, we
will figure out that the chips (say 612 or the 3150) was used in massive
quantities in a Sony Walkman or a Technics audio amplifier.  Ebay prices
on such items will be negligible and Elecraft enthusiasts can buy someone
else's junk for pennies on the dollar.

tnx.
Conway Yee, N2JWQ


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 how often do you use it?

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

Are you sure he's not trying to keep you out of the "winner's circle"? ;o)

Seems like there are more K3s noted in 3830 postings every contest, not to
mention the still venerable K2s. Many well known calls, not just lil'
pistols.

The 200W comment is not valid for most LP contests. There are a few that
allow 150W, but most consider LP to be 100W. 

Most, if not all, serious contesters change bands via the logging program.
The only controls I touch during a contest are AF, RF and maybe filter
width. (Yes, I sometimes play with RIT/XIT) If you need to dink around with
controls a lot, you're not making enough contacts.

For the big multi-multi stations, it may be more of a function of cost,
initially.  They generally try to standardize as much as possible. Too, with
monster antenna arrays, some of the issues they face are not the same as
folks with a single tribander and dipole...

It probably comes down to operator preference in the end... For various,
non-technical reasons more than anything else. 

73,
Julius


K8RDD wrote:
> 
> Sorry for the misspelling in the original message. It should have
> started "A fellow". He told me that a "Big Gun" would never buy a K3.
> #1 due to not having 200w, #2 due to ergonomics. He basically said
> that people that buy a K3 don't use it enough to not see the inherent
> flaws in the layout, size etc. of the K3. He felt the 1000d was much
> better. I don't own my 1000d or MkII anymore. I did buy the K3's with
> some reservation as far as it being more like  my 751a as far as
> bandswitching etc. But after using the K3 for over a year I have found
> very few things to complain about. My Ft-2000 sure was prettier
> though. Anyway I thought after being on this reflector for a long time
> now that most people here were obviously pretty sharp, and use there
> rigs quite a bit. I am not a contestor but I would guess those that
> are have the basic requirements of a station with the antenna being
> the number one concern, if not determination..
> I've always found that the antenna was the most critical part of my
> station. Then the transceiver as far dynamic range etc. Then power
> output, in that order. What does everyone else think? I know looks to
> a lot of people are #1, but I'm sure that the station I am trying to
> contact really doesn't care.
> Randy
> K8RDD
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-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
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View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40

[Hector Padron]

I consider my order a lost,I made in November last year and I have sent emails 
and always had same answes back: "still on backorder"
 
AD4C
 


"For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3"

--- On Mon, 1/11/10, Ken K3IU  wrote:


From: Ken K3IU 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40
To: "Gilbert Cross" 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net, "Bob Naumann" , "'Tom Morehouse'" 

Date: Monday, January 11, 2010, 9:26 AM


I ordered one on 12/4. On 1/4 I emailed asking about the status. On 1/5 
I received this:
*"Please be advised that we are expecting in the "YAMAHA CM500 HEADSET 
w/BUILT-IN MICROPHONE" you have on backorder in about 3-5 days."
*
As of this morning(1/11), my order is still listed as "On backorder."

73,
Ken K3IU
~~~
On 1/10/2010 5:08 PM, Gilbert Cross wrote:
>         The 12 to 14 days is the time they say they need to get them in
> house. I too have a set ordered and am about to call to check on my
> order
>
>               73   Gil   K8eag
>
>    
>> For some additional info, I placed an order with B&H for these headsets on
>> December 4 and they are still on backorder.
>>
>> Don't hold your breath waiting the 12 to 14 days they say it should take.
>>
>> Bob W5OV
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Morehouse
>> Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 3:32 PM
>> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for<$40
>>      
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 and SPE Expert AMP

[Larry K1UO]

Doug,

 If you already have remote antenna switching, I would use the K3  bcd data
to do the antenna switching prior to the amplifier rf sensing the band. 
this would prevent transmitting into a wrong antenna...unless, of course,
you plan on using the built in antenna switch of the SPE then I would rely
on the K3 band data provided to the amp rather than rf sensing.

73 and good luck
Larry K1UO




I am considering the Expert amplifier because of instant turnon, smaller
size and reduced weight.   Does the Expert amplifier require a tie in to the
transceiver other than RF input and key out to determine which frequency to
tune to?   The ACOM 2000A does this automatically sensing the frequency from
the RF Input and there is not need for an interveing PC.   Is it the case
that the Expert amplifier needs a separate input defining the operating
frequency and band?

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-SPE-Expert-AMP-tp4281796p4285441.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 KPA3 Failure

[rfenabled]

Has anyone had a KPA3 cause the display to show ERR 12 v?

Power supply checks out normal as do the leads. The circuit breaker is in line 
and does not drop out.

Connections appear ok as does the antenna system which is resonant etc.

When the error is displayed the K3 reverts to low power 12w out max.

Resetting does not correct the fault, tried placing the KPA3 to bypass and all 
works fine. Changed the setting to PA nor and the fault returns immediately.

Support have been notified by e-mail bit thought I would ask the group if 
anyone else has had this happen and if so, was it a KPA3 failure requiring 
replacement. Of course the warranty has expired...(:-((

73's
Gary
K3 #679
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with KDSP2 and KAF2?

[Don Wilhelm]

Sam,

They both fit in the same physical space, so both cannot be installed.

73,
Don W3FPR

Sam Morgan wrote:
> I just saw a K2 listed for sale , it says with both the KDSP2 and the KAF2 
> installed. I thought you could only install one or the other, was I mistaken, 
> can you have both installed and working in a K2?
>   
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 01/11/10 
> 02:35:00
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP

[Kjeld Holm]

Hi gentlemen,

Ideally you should pass band data from K3 to the Expert amplifier. But if
you do not the amplifier will still be able to sense the transmit frequency
- but you have to transmit (just a dot or two). Just changing frequency at
the K3 will not change the Expert amplifier to the correct band.

Vy 73
OZ1CCM Kjeld



 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of turnbull
Sent: 11. januar 2010 12:15
To: Len, K3LJ
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP


Gentelmen,
I am considering the Expert amplifier because of instant turnon, smaller
size and reduced weight.   Does the Expert amplifier require a tie in to the
transceiver other than RF input and key out to determine which frequency to
tune to?   The ACOM 2000A does this automatically sensing the frequency from
the RF Input and there is not need for an interveing PC.   Is it the case
that the Expert amplifier needs a separate input defining the operating
frequency and band?

73 Doug

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 16:17:23 -0800 (PST), "Len,  K3LJ"
 wrote:
> 
> Richard, If you go to Yahoo groups, there a group for the Elecraft K3 
> and one for the Expert Amp. I believe in both of them in the files 
> section there is a drawing for configuring the cabling for the K3 the 
> Expert Amp and your computer. From what I see in the K3's manual and 
> the Expert Amp manual it looks pretty good. I am in the process of 
> obtaining the parts to build one now.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 73,  Len  K3LJ
> 
> 
> 
> Richard Thorpe wrote:
>>
>> Is anyone using the K3 with the SPE Expert amplifier? if so how do 
>> they integrate the two with computer control?
>>
>> R Thorpe AC9D
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> 
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> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP

[Bob Naumann]

The SPE amp will "RF Sense" like the Acom 2000A to switch bands.

It also has provision to be driven by the Yaesu format band data from the K3
but you do not need to do that - if you don't want.

73,

Bob W5OV

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of turnbull
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 5:15 AM
To: Len, K3LJ
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP


Gentelmen,
I am considering the Expert amplifier because of instant turnon, smaller
size and reduced weight.   Does the Expert amplifier require a tie in to the
transceiver other than RF input and key out to determine which frequency to
tune to?   The ACOM 2000A does this automatically sensing the frequency from
the RF Input and there is not need for an interveing PC.   Is it the case
that the Expert amplifier needs a separate input defining the operating
frequency and band?

73 Doug

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 16:17:23 -0800 (PST), "Len,  K3LJ"
 wrote:
> 
> Richard, If you go to Yahoo groups, there a group for the Elecraft K3 and
> one
> for the Expert Amp. I believe in both of them in the files section there
> is
> a drawing for configuring the cabling for the K3 the Expert Amp and your
> computer. From what I see in the K3's manual and the Expert Amp manual it
> looks pretty good. I am in the process of obtaining the parts to build one
> now.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 73,  Len  K3LJ
> 
> 
> 
> Richard Thorpe wrote:
>>
>> Is anyone using the K3 with the SPE Expert amplifier? if so how do
>> they integrate the two with computer control?
>>
>> R Thorpe AC9D
>> __
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> 
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-SPE-Expert-AMP-tp4281796p4283184.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 with KDSP2 and KAF2?

[Mike Harris]

No.

Regarding the recent K3 audio file tests.  If you want to hear the 
difference an LPF can make try the K2 with and without the KAF2.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


- Original Message - 
From: "Sam Morgan" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 9:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 with KDSP2 and KAF2?


>I just saw a K2 listed for sale , it says with both the KDSP2 and 
>the KAF2
> installed. I thought you could only install one or the other, was 
> I mistaken,
> can you have both installed and working in a K2?
> -- 
> GB & 73
> K5OAI
> Sam Morgan
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 270.14.134/2613 - Release Date: 
01/11/10 07:35:00

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[Elecraft] K2 with KDSP2 and KAF2?

[Sam Morgan]

I just saw a K2 listed for sale , it says with both the KDSP2 and the KAF2 
installed. I thought you could only install one or the other, was I mistaken, 
can you have both installed and working in a K2?
-- 
GB & 73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SPE Expert AMP

[turnbull]

Gentelmen,
I am considering the Expert amplifier because of instant turnon, smaller 
size and reduced weight.   Does the Expert amplifier require a tie in to the 
transceiver other than RF input and key out to determine which frequency to 
tune to?   The ACOM 2000A does this automatically sensing the frequency from 
the RF Input and there is not need for an interveing PC.   Is it the case that 
the Expert amplifier needs a separate input defining the operating frequency 
and band?

73 Doug

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 16:17:23 -0800 (PST), "Len,  K3LJ"  
wrote:
> 
> Richard, If you go to Yahoo groups, there a group for the Elecraft K3 and
> one
> for the Expert Amp. I believe in both of them in the files section there
> is
> a drawing for configuring the cabling for the K3 the Expert Amp and your
> computer. From what I see in the K3's manual and the Expert Amp manual it
> looks pretty good. I am in the process of obtaining the parts to build one
> now.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 73,  Len  K3LJ
> 
> 
> 
> Richard Thorpe wrote:
>>
>> Is anyone using the K3 with the SPE Expert amplifier? if so how do
>> they integrate the two with computer control?
>>
>> R Thorpe AC9D
>> __
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>>
> 
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-and-SPE-Expert-AMP-tp4281796p4283184.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Test Results

[pd0psb]

Hi Al,

Nice results.

I'd like to note though that adding of the LPF board wasn't the only
correction in the past.
(I myself was never bothered by those artifacts btw)

A much more significant factor in K3's noisy "reputation" I think, was its
initial lack of low frequency response,giving it a high-emphasized and
fatiguing sound.

The correction of the low-end passband response (made several FW's ago) made
a night and day difference in its audio quality. All postings about audio
problems before this fix -I think- were mainly caused by K3's initial
unbalanced audio response resulting in high-pitch/noise reports.

73'
Paul
PD0PSB




Al Lorona wrote:
> 
> I've received 25 votes so far and the rate of new reports has dropped to
> zero. So here are the results. 
>  
> There were 8 correct votes (including 2 split votes that I counted as 1/2
> a vote each). That is pretty good... I'm not sure I could have identified
> the K3 myself. It is slightly better than the 25% we would have expected
> from random guesses.
> 
> Receiver #1 was a Ten Tec Omni VI and received 8 votes as the K3. Some of
> the comments I got were:
> a. "Very sharp filter."
> b. "Least fatiguing."
> c. "Seems to have some kind of faint signal in the noise."
> d. "Not too bad, although I can hear some high frequency blow-by."
> e. "A bit of high freq hiss."
> 
> Receiver #2 was an Elecraft KX1. It received 3 votes. Comments included:
> a. "Sounded most like my K3 on 160 meters."
> b. "Close to a K3."
> c. "Definitely don't like this one."
> d. "Pretty awful."
> 
> Receiver #3 was the K3, receiving 8 votes. I will discuss this one and its
> comments later.
> 
> Receiver #4 was an Elecraft K2 and it got 4 votes. Comments included:
> a. "Easiest and cleanest to listen to."
> b. "Least noisy."
> c. "Easiest to listen to."
> d. "Probably a member of the FT1000MP family."
> e. "Pretty awful, presenting a LOT of high frequency blow-by."
> f. "Lots of out-of-band noise.  (But actually kind of soothing)"
> g. "More "honest" in reproducing what is really happening on the band."
> 
> There were 2 votes for "I don't know."
> 
> None of this is really surprising for a subjective (and difficult) test
> like this. What was surprising, and which I did not expect, was that of
> the 8 votes for the K3 and in comments from the others, *not a single
> person identified it because of noise, artifacts, or distortion*, but in
> every case by what I would call "normal" factors. Just read these sample
> pro and con comments about Receiver #3, the K3, (including a few from the
> first run of the test on 6 January that are pertinent):
> 
> a. "I had my K3 set up as you described while listening to your 4
> recordings.  Mine sounded identical to number 3.  The other waveforms were
> different in average pitch."
> b. "Well balanced leaned toward allowing lows."
> c. "No out of band noise.  Very very faint signals audible."
> d. "Sounds the most like my K3 sounds with 500 Hz BW."
> e. "Most different sound to my K3."
> f. "Cleanest overall passband (the others obviously have substantial
> wideband gain *after* the CW filter, resulting in surrounding WB noise) -
> but K3 has most "bumpy-road" agc."
> g. "[The K3] is the most 'quiet' recording because it contains only low
> frequency (in-passband) content."
> h. "Real quiet outside of the passband noise."
> 
> Without exception, the identifying features cited were purely normal
> things like frequency response, passband shape, AGC, etc. In fact, many
> folks identified the K3 precisely because of its cleanliness. "No noise,"
> "Clean," etc.
> 
> (Incidentally, in the first test on 6 Jan 8 out of 15 were correct votes
> for the K3 (which was file #1). And the same total absence of
> identification by distortion products was true for that test also.)
> 
> I would have expected at least a few folks to say, "Receiver X is the K3
> because I can clearly hear the high frequency products." But they did not.
> 
> Note also that at least four and possibly five of the correct votes were
> made with their own K3 turned on, in a side-by-side comparison with my
> recordings, which I'm sure definitely helped. :^) Could they have made the
> same identification without that to fall back on? I don't know.
> 
> What are we to conclude from all of this? It is the normal
> characteristics, rather than the imperfections, that one hears when one
> listens to a K3. Second, the K3 is apparently no more noisier a receiver;
> at least noisiness is not what jumps out at you when you listen to it in
> side-by-side comparisons with other receivers. 
> 
> I now suspect that for many (if not all) operators, the effect of 10 and
> 12 kHz artifacts etc. is vastly exaggerated.
> 
> I will speculate further and say that a lot of times because we can
> measure something, we conclude that what we measured is significant, or
> that it must be the cause of what's wrong. If there were no such thing as
> spectrum analyzers perhaps most people would be supremel

Re: [Elecraft] K3 not communicating with PC

[Jon K Hellan]

Roger Dallimore wrote:
> Many thanks for all suggestions privately and to this list.
> 
> I can confirm that;
> 
> Ports have been checked with K3 utility
> Checked correct port in device manager on PC
> Did not stop after upgrading software
> I am using KUSB with latest drivers since arrival of K3 #191
> K3 is set at 38400 baud
> 
> I'm going to examine the transistor on the IO board. Apparently the 
> plastic transistors can degrade over time on older K3's and the voltage 
> drops under load to the RS232.  Thanks to K1WHS for this suggestion.

Did you check the voltage to the K3? Low voltage from a battery once caused a 
PC communications
problem for me.

Jon LA4RT
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Re: [Elecraft] Test Results

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Thanks Al!

73
Arie PA3A

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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for <$40

[Ken K3IU]

I ordered one on 12/4. On 1/4 I emailed asking about the status. On 1/5 
I received this:
*"Please be advised that we are expecting in the "YAMAHA CM500 HEADSET 
w/BUILT-IN MICROPHONE" you have on backorder in about 3-5 days."
*
As of this morning(1/11), my order is still listed as "On backorder."

73,
Ken K3IU
~~~
On 1/10/2010 5:08 PM, Gilbert Cross wrote:
> The 12 to 14 days is the time they say they need to get them in
> house. I too have a set ordered and am about to call to check on my
> order
>
>   73   Gil   K8eag
>
>
>> For some additional info, I placed an order with B&H for these headsets on
>> December 4 and they are still on backorder.
>>
>> Don't hold your breath waiting the 12 to 14 days they say it should take.
>>
>> Bob W5OV
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Morehouse
>> Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 3:32 PM
>> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] Yamaha CM500 headset at B&H for<$40
>>  
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>
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