[Elecraft] Pink K3 bag is a royal idea

2010-01-20 Thread Steve Ireland
G'day

 

For those who might be thinking having a pink K3 bag is a bit unmanly, think
again!

 

As those who have an interest in history and royalty will know, pink is
actually the colour of kings.  Although these days we tend to associate red
with royalty, pink used to have a similar place.

 

Vy 73

 

Steve, VK6VZ 

 

-

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 19:30:06 -

From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net

Subject: [Elecraft] K3 pink carry bag?

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Message-ID: 7202c97cb4e241ac8978122e92724...@your4105e587b6

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 

Of course I can make a pink K3 bag!  There are many options 

for fleece lining and edge binding colors, too.

 

Unfortunately, the shoulder straps come in back only. (:-(

 

73! Rose

  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net

  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5

 

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[Elecraft] K3 Pink Bag

2010-01-20 Thread rfenabled
Snip

G'day

 

For those who might be thinking having a pink K3 bag is a bit unmanly, think
again!

 

As those who have an interest in history and royalty will know, pink is
actually the colour of kings.  Although these days we tend to associate red
with royalty, pink used to have a similar place.

 

Vy 73

 

Steve, VK6VZ 
End Snip

And not only that, Australian and Pakistan cricket teams wore Pink to raise 
awareness of the McGrath Foundation for the fight against Breast Cancer!

So there you go, Pink is IN fashion for men...(:-))

73's
Gary
VK4FD
K3 #679
Sent via BlackBerry® from Telstra
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[Elecraft] K2 Freq. Stability

2010-01-20 Thread Douglas Furton
Hello, all

I've been bothered with the CW tone/filter setting
on my K2 for some time now.  I seem to need to run
CAL FIL daily, at least to have the BFO freq. read
into memory.  I observe that the CW tone starts low
and drifts upwards as the rig warms up when I tune a
signal to the center of the filters (maxing the
S-meter).

Here is some data characterizing the freq. drift
in my K2 (#6761).  I measured the PLL and BFO freqs
with a nice frequency counter.  I measured these
shifts with the K2 locked at 7050 kHz, and computed
the total shift = dPLL - dBFO (all referred back to
the initial (T=18.5C) measurements.  I measured the
temp. with a thermocouple in contact with the PLL
thermistor board. I also measured the  PLL and BFO 
control voltages at various times and found them 
to be constant.


Cumulative freq. Shifts
T   PLL BFO Total 
(C) (Hz)(Hz)(Hz)
18.50   0   0
19.39   -17 26
19.613  -34 47
20.217  -57 74
20.819  -70 89
21.324  -79 103
21.626  -87 113
22.028  -92 120
23.337  -124161
24.040  -136176
24.546  -164210
25.053  -205258
25.562  -256318
25.570  -310380

(I hope the table above remains tabulated
properly.  Best viewed with a monospace
font.)

It seems the thermistor board compensates the PLL
fairly well (although maybe I could tweak RA upwards 
a bit), but the BFO drifts considerably, and
since the PLL and BFO drift in opposite directions, 
the total drift is exaggerated.

I may measure the drift on a second band, but these
data are just from 40 m.  

I would really like to improve the temp. stability
of my K2.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Doug Furton
K8EXB


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Re: [Elecraft] Pink K3 bag is a royal idea

2010-01-20 Thread Ian Maude
In fact, pink was a manly colour until a couple of generations ago.  Blue
was for the girls :)

73 Ian

-- 
Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC  HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
http://www.amateurradiotraining.org


2010/1/20 Steve Ireland vk...@arach.net.au

 G'day



 For those who might be thinking having a pink K3 bag is a bit unmanly,
 think
 again!



 As those who have an interest in history and royalty will know, pink is
 actually the colour of kings.  Although these days we tend to associate red
 with royalty, pink used to have a similar place.


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Re: [Elecraft] Pink K3 bag is a royal idea

2010-01-20 Thread Ken Chandler
Steve et al
Is it not the KING of all Radio's!!
Though I must admit a bloke would look a bit Lardy carrying a pink  
case, k3 or no k3. Ok for YL's though!
But, Have i missed a thread !!  Where has this idea come from that k3  
cases should be pink or perhaps just some lite banter!!

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone




On 20 Jan 2010, at 08:19, Steve Ireland vk...@arach.net.au wrote:

 G'day



 For those who might be thinking having a pink K3 bag is a bit  
 unmanly, think
 again!



 As those who have an interest in history and royalty will know, pink  
 is
 actually the colour of kings.  Although these days we tend to  
 associate red
 with royalty, pink used to have a similar place.



 Vy 73



 Steve, VK6VZ



 -

 Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 19:30:06 -

 From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net

 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 pink carry bag?

 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 Message-ID: 7202c97cb4e241ac8978122e92724...@your4105e587b6

 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1



 Of course I can make a pink K3 bag!  There are many options

 for fleece lining and edge binding colors, too.



 Unfortunately, the shoulder straps come in back only. (:-(



 73! Rose

  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net

  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5



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Re: [Elecraft] Pink K3 bag is a royal idea

2010-01-20 Thread AD6XY

Just because a while ago it was OK to use pink it does not mean it is now.
Many years ago everyone drove on the left of the road. This is still fine
and accepted in most of the world, but not good fashion in the America or
continental Europe. Go around with a pink bag if you are male and people
will make judgements.
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Pink-K3-bag-is-a-royal-idea-tp4425361p4425497.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Freq. Stability

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Doug,

The BFO is obviously the culprit here.
What serial number is this K2?
Do you have the new L33? with many turns of #36 wire.  If this is an 
older K2, install the BFO upgrade kit.
If you already have the upgraded parts, then I suggest you equip 
yourself with all of the parts in the BFO circuit and just replace 
them.  You can replace them one at a time until you find things more 
stable, but I believe it is easier to replace them wholesale and see 
what happens.  You will need
2 BFO crystals X3 and X4
C173 and C174
D37 and D38
L33
Replacing L33 will require a high value 1/8 watt resistor to mount the 
toroid - the K2 lists this as R116 PN E500086.

73,
Don W3FPR

Douglas Furton wrote:
 Hello, all

 I've been bothered with the CW tone/filter setting
 on my K2 for some time now.  I seem to need to run
 CAL FIL daily, at least to have the BFO freq. read
 into memory.  I observe that the CW tone starts low
 and drifts upwards as the rig warms up when I tune a
 signal to the center of the filters (maxing the
 S-meter).

 Here is some data characterizing the freq. drift
 in my K2 (#6761).  I measured the PLL and BFO freqs
 with a nice frequency counter.  I measured these
 shifts with the K2 locked at 7050 kHz, and computed
 the total shift = dPLL - dBFO (all referred back to
 the initial (T=18.5C) measurements.  I measured the
 temp. with a thermocouple in contact with the PLL
 thermistor board. I also measured the  PLL and BFO 
 control voltages at various times and found them 
 to be constant.


   Cumulative freq. Shifts
 T PLL BFO Total 
 (C)   (Hz)(Hz)(Hz)
 18.5  0   0   0
 19.3  9   -17 26
 19.6  13  -34 47
 20.2  17  -57 74
 20.8  19  -70 89
 21.3  24  -79 103
 21.6  26  -87 113
 22.0  28  -92 120
 23.3  37  -124161
 24.0  40  -136176
 24.5  46  -164210
 25.0  53  -205258
 25.5  62  -256318
 25.5  70  -310380

 (I hope the table above remains tabulated
 properly.  Best viewed with a monospace
 font.)

 It seems the thermistor board compensates the PLL
 fairly well (although maybe I could tweak RA upwards 
 a bit), but the BFO drifts considerably, and
 since the PLL and BFO drift in opposite directions, 
 the total drift is exaggerated.

 I may measure the drift on a second band, but these
 data are just from 40 m.  

 I would really like to improve the temp. stability
 of my K2.

 Does anyone have any suggestions?

 Thanks,

 Doug Furton
 K8EXB

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Freq. Stability

2010-01-20 Thread Jack Smith
For a comparison point, you might wish to look at my K2 stability 
measurements at
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/k2_freq_stability.htm

Jack K8ZOA


On 1/20/2010 8:58 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Doug,

 The BFO is obviously the culprit here.
 What serial number is this K2?
 Do you have the new L33? with many turns of #36 wire.  If this is an
 older K2, install the BFO upgrade kit.
 If you already have the upgraded parts, then I suggest you equip
 yourself with all of the parts in the BFO circuit and just replace
 them.  You can replace them one at a time until you find things more
 stable, but I believe it is easier to replace them wholesale and see
 what happens.  You will need
 2 BFO crystals X3 and X4
 C173 and C174
 D37 and D38
 L33
 Replacing L33 will require a high value 1/8 watt resistor to mount the
 toroid - the K2 lists this as R116 PN E500086.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Douglas Furton wrote:

 Hello, all

 I've been bothered with the CW tone/filter setting
 on my K2 for some time now.  I seem to need to run
 CAL FIL daily, at least to have the BFO freq. read
 into memory.  I observe that the CW tone starts low
 and drifts upwards as the rig warms up when I tune a
 signal to the center of the filters (maxing the
 S-meter).

 Here is some data characterizing the freq. drift
 in my K2 (#6761).  I measured the PLL and BFO freqs
 with a nice frequency counter.  I measured these
 shifts with the K2 locked at 7050 kHz, and computed
 the total shift = dPLL - dBFO (all referred back to
 the initial (T=18.5C) measurements.  I measured the
 temp. with a thermocouple in contact with the PLL
 thermistor board. I also measured the  PLL and BFO
 control voltages at various times and found them
 to be constant.


  Cumulative freq. Shifts
 TPLL BFO Total
 (C)  (Hz)(Hz)(Hz)
 18.5 0   0   0
 19.3 9   -17 26
 19.6 13  -34 47
 20.2 17  -57 74
 20.8 19  -70 89
 21.3 24  -79 103
 21.6 26  -87 113
 22.0 28  -92 120
 23.3 37  -124161
 24.0 40  -136176
 24.5 46  -164210
 25.0 53  -205258
 25.5 62  -256318
 25.5 70  -310380

 (I hope the table above remains tabulated
 properly.  Best viewed with a monospace
 font.)

 It seems the thermistor board compensates the PLL
 fairly well (although maybe I could tweak RA upwards
 a bit), but the BFO drifts considerably, and
 since the PLL and BFO drift in opposite directions,
 the total drift is exaggerated.

 I may measure the drift on a second band, but these
 data are just from 40 m.

 I would really like to improve the temp. stability
 of my K2.

 Does anyone have any suggestions?

 Thanks,

 Doug Furton
 K8EXB

 
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 02:34:00


  
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Re: [Elecraft] Pink K3 bag is a royal idea

2010-01-20 Thread Ken Chandler
Ah, tks, I thought that may be the case. ( if u can excuse the pun)!!  
My iPhone is only set for the first 2 lines of in bound texts so if i  
don't get the gist then I delete the mail be4 opening it.
I'm glad the lads are not thinking abt having pink cases...hi but such  
as life, each to their own I say!
Yes, the YL's would love them.
While most of the banter has revolved about the US, on cases etc, mine  
has to share with an old Ali case with houses my RC  Helicoptor  
transmitter.

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone




On 20 Jan 2010, at 14:43, David King dk...@vcn.com wrote:

 Ken...you apparently missed an early post on this, as a YL was  
 getting a K3 and asked about the possibility of a pink K3 bag being  
 made up by Mrs. Kopp. (She said yes, they were available).

 That then led to the general discussion of the relative merits of  
 pink in various societies...No one was directly  suggesting a system- 
 wide switch to pink.

 David...WY7DK

 Ken Chandler wrote:

 Steve et al
 Is it not the KING of all Radio's!!
 Though I must admit a bloke would look a bit Lardy carrying a pink
 case, k3 or no k3. Ok for YL's though!
 But, Have i missed a thread !!  Where has this idea come from that k3
 cases should be pink or perhaps just some lite banter!!

 Ken..G0ORH

 Sent from my iPhone




 On 20 Jan 2010, at 08:19, Steve Ireland vk...@arach.net.au wrote:


 G'day



 For those who might be thinking having a pink K3 bag is a bit
 unmanly, think
 again!



 As those who have an interest in history and royalty will know, pink
 is
 actually the colour of kings.  Although these days we tend to
 associate red
 with royalty, pink used to have a similar place.



 Vy 73



 Steve, VK6VZ



 -

 Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 19:30:06 -

 From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net

 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 pink carry bag?

 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 Message-ID: 7202c97cb4e241ac8978122e92724...@your4105e587b6

 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1



 Of course I can make a pink K3 bag!  There are many options

 for fleece lining and edge binding colors, too.



 Unfortunately, the shoulder straps come in back only. (:-(



 73! Rose

  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net

  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Alpha 91b

2010-01-20 Thread Brian Machesney
Mike,

I have used my K3 and A91b successfully on all bands from 160 through 10
meters for over a year. No problems with SSB on any bands. I have run full
output on 160 and 80/75, both SSB and CW. Net: I can't think why you're
having trouble.

I do have one problem on the low bands that I do not associate with the K3
but might be playing into your situation somehow. I believe my house wiring
is picking up RF, which kills my DSL connection whenever I run high power on
160 and sometimes when I only run 100W barefoot from the K3.

Have you run the setup into a dummy load?

Brian K1LI

On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 3:59 PM, n...@aol.com wrote:

 I have an Alpha 91b hooked to the K3 (SN 8376) and I'm having an Odd
 problem ... on 75/80 meter SSB, if I run the amp at 45 watts, which is what
 works on CW without issue, I encounter significant nuisance tripping of the
 Amplifier to the fault condition.  The amp also exhibits a power spike into
 the 2KW range often times when it faults.  If I reduce the  power to 30
 watts on the K3, the amp runs 1500 watts OK without tripping.   Please 
 resist the temptation to say Run at 30 watts then.  All  other bands ...
 except 6 meters which I didn't check, do not exhibit this  issue.  Power
 out from
 the K3 is 45 watts and the amp runs  1500 watts  out with NO nuisance
 tripping.  I've talked to the tech's at Alpha and at  least one other K3
 owner
 has had this same problem.  He asked me to check  the amp with another
 radio
 so, using my spare radio, Yaesu FT-450, to drive  the amp I have no
 nuisance
 tripping on any band while running 45-50 watts into  the amp.  Neither
 radio
 has ALC hooked up, only the TR relay.  Both  radios and amp are grounded to
 the same ground buss.  RF calibration was  done when the radio was
 assembled and I have not re-done that process.

 Any ideas as to why the radio would exhibit a tendency to over drive the
 amp just on 75/80 meters?

 Mike N9QR

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Re: [Elecraft] Pink K3 bag is a royal idea

2010-01-20 Thread David King
Ken...you apparently missed an early post on this, as a YL was getting a 
K3 and asked about the possibility of a pink K3 bag being made up by 
Mrs. Kopp. (She said yes, they were available).

That then led to the general discussion of the relative merits of pink 
in various societies...No one was directly  suggesting a system-wide 
switch to pink.

David...WY7DK

Ken Chandler wrote:
 Steve et al
 Is it not the KING of all Radio's!!
 Though I must admit a bloke would look a bit Lardy carrying a pink  
 case, k3 or no k3. Ok for YL's though!
 But, Have i missed a thread !!  Where has this idea come from that k3  
 cases should be pink or perhaps just some lite banter!!

 Ken..G0ORH

 Sent from my iPhone




 On 20 Jan 2010, at 08:19, Steve Ireland vk...@arach.net.au wrote:

   
 G'day



 For those who might be thinking having a pink K3 bag is a bit  
 unmanly, think
 again!



 As those who have an interest in history and royalty will know, pink  
 is
 actually the colour of kings.  Although these days we tend to  
 associate red
 with royalty, pink used to have a similar place.



 Vy 73



 Steve, VK6VZ



 -

 Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 19:30:06 -

 From: Ken Kopp k...@rfwave.net

 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 pink carry bag?

 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 Message-ID: 7202c97cb4e241ac8978122e92724...@your4105e587b6

 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1



 Of course I can make a pink K3 bag!  There are many options

 for fleece lining and edge binding colors, too.



 Unfortunately, the shoulder straps come in back only. (:-(



 73! Rose

  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net

  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5



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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread Don Ehrlich
Bill,

My own treadmill causes severe interference here in the house.  I'm the only 
one who uses it so it does not affect my own radio but it blanks out any AM 
radio in the house that happens to be turned on.  I reduced the noise to an 
insignificant level by simply plugging a few microfarads of film capacitor 
into the same power outlet that the treadmill is plugged in to.  I just 
wired up the capacitors to an AC plug in a neat little package that looks 
like a big wall wart.  The interference definitely is carried throughout the 
house by the wiring.  I suspect that if your neighbor would agree to plug a 
similar module into the same outlet as is his treadmill that it would 
improve your noise situation.

Don K7FJ



 Thank you Elecraft reflector members for all of the great suggestions on 
 this QRN problem..  With your help I was able to locate the problem.   I 
 would of not found it without your help.

 Now, I have no idea what to do about the issue, perhaps nothing.  I now 
 know the source.

 It's my neighbors treadmill.  We share a power transformer (underground 
 utilities).  Although I bet the noise is from a motor arching and most 
 likely is radiating at the motor as opposed to being carried on the power 
 line.  I have hope as he is not a ultra marathon runner and his runs 
 rarely cause a QRT of over an hour.

 If you want to hear the sound click on the Flickr link:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279625626/in/photostream/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279577818/in/photostream/

 Thank you again list members for allowing me to tap the collective :)
 73,
 Bill
 AK5X


 On Jan 16, 2010, at 1:34 PM, Bill Hammond wrote:

 I have been chasing this noise in my urban neighborhood for several years 
 now.  It usually visits during the daylight hours and stays for several 
 hours. It has a rhythm and is across all frequencies and bands.  I have 
 pulled the big switch in my house and the noise is still with me 
 (listening on battery powered rigs).  Neighbors on all sides of my city 
 sized lot  have swimming pools and my first suspicion is noise generated 
 by circulation pumps.

 Here are two  recordings (on a K3 of coarse).  Why not ask the most 
 discriminating radio fans in the world their opinions on the source?

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279625626/in/photostream/


 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279577818/in/photostream/


 Bill Hammond-AK5X
 wham...@aol.com
 a...@mac.com
 a...@sbcglobal.net
 K3 #69
 K2/100 #4637
 K1 #2033
 KX1 #1023
 T1





 Bill Hammond-AK5X
 wham...@aol.com
 a...@mac.com
 a...@sbcglobal.net
 K3 #69
 K2/100 #4637
 K1 #2033
 KX1 #1023
 T1



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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi All,
I had mentioned previously that I just ordered a nice treadmill after a lot
of research.  When I read about this possible interference I sent an email
to the company.  Within an hour I got a phone call from a very knowledgeable
person.  He stated that as far as he knows all treadmills except Precor and
Woodway use PWM to regulate the DC motor.  He said RFI could emanate from
the motor along the AC plug, or radiate from the PWM circuit.  He said that
if it was from the PWM it would be very difficult to resolve, as it would be
picked up by the antenna.  He said both types of interference were
definitely possible.  He also stated that if I wanted to buy a Precor or
Woodway I would be talking about $4500 for an entry level machine.

I talked it over with my wife and since I doubt I will be on my K3 while on
the treadmill we decided to keep the treadmill we ordered.  I feel sorry for
any ham who is suffering RFI from a neighbor's treadmill.  Better to work
with them than to call the FCC on them.

Steve, W2MY

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Alpha 91b

2010-01-20 Thread Mike Stover
Hi Brian,

Thanks for the feedback ... 

I've had no issues with the 91b except for this oddity since I 
acquired it about three weeks ago.  I previoulsy owned a 91b and an 
87a but ended up selling the 91b to a friend along with a Collins S 
Line.  I sold the 87a (HUGE mistake) and bought a Quadra when I 
slimmed down my radio collection to a Yaesu FT-1000MP MK V and a 
portable FT450 a couple of years ago.  I sold the FT-1000 last 
December and bought the K3.  After I assembled it and got it on the 
air, the Quadra became a bit of a pain to deal with because of the 
way it senses RF to switch bands (No Data Cables to run between K3 
and the Amp) and the extra buttons that had to be pushed on the amp 
to switch the bands and tune the amp.  So I traded it to a friend for 
his
91b.  Not sorry I did that at all but this oddity with 80 meter SSB 
is
bothering me.  I am running 30 watts and getting the 1500 out but I 
should
not have to when all other bands, including 160, take 45 watts to 
achieve
1500 out into a matched antenna or a dummy load.  

As to RFI issues, I have a pretty good ground system ... copper water
pipes and a city water system that is copper all the way to the 
street 300
feet away.  With in-line traps between the radio and amp and between 
the
tuner and the antenna the only issue I have is on 10 meters when I do 
get
into the TV and Phone if I run anything over 600 watts ... I think 
it's
more antenna proximity that RFI but I'm still working on that.

I use filters on all the phones ... you might try that.  Before 
Verizon switched me to fibre optic cable I was on a residential DSL 
line and I was forced to use band pass filters on all the phones in 
the house to keep 80, 10 and 15 meters out of the system at any power
setting over 500 watts.  I did discover a ground cable issue when I 
was
moving the station around after getting the K3 that may have 
contributed
to that however.  I run all grounds to a single point with all 
radios,
computers, amplifiers and accessory equipment having separate ground
cables to that point.  Loose connections and AC wiring without chokes
still pop up as issues occasionally due to my missing something.

73, Mike N9QR


Date sent:  Wed, 20 Jan 2010 10:06:08 -0500
From:   Brian Machesney nekvts...@gmail.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject:Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Alpha 91b

 Mike,
 
 I have used my K3 and A91b successfully on all bands from 160
 through 10
 meters for over a year. No problems with SSB on any bands. I have
 run full
 output on 160 and 80/75, both SSB and CW. Net: I can't think why
 you're
 having trouble.
 
 I do have one problem on the low bands that I do not associate with
 the K3
 but might be playing into your situation somehow. I believe my house
 wiring
 is picking up RF, which kills my DSL connection whenever I run high
 power on
 160 and sometimes when I only run 100W barefoot from the K3.
 
 Have you run the setup into a dummy load?
 
 Brian K1LI
 
 On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 3:59 PM, n...@aol.com wrote:
 
  I have an Alpha 91b hooked to the K3 (SN 8376) and I'm having an
 Odd
  problem ... on 75/80 meter SSB, if I run the amp at 45 watts,
 which is what
  works on CW without issue, I encounter significant nuisance
 tripping of the
  Amplifier to the fault condition.  The amp also exhibits a power
 spike into
  the 2KW range often times when it faults.  If I reduce the  power
 to 30
  watts on the K3, the amp runs 1500 watts OK without tripping.  
 Please 
  resist the temptation to say Run at 30 watts then.  All  other
 bands ...
  except 6 meters which I didn't check, do not exhibit this  issue. 
 Power
  out from
  the K3 is 45 watts and the amp runs  1500 watts  out with NO
 nuisance
  tripping.  I've talked to the tech's at Alpha and at  least one
 other K3
  owner
  has had this same problem.  He asked me to check  the amp with
 another
  radio
  so, using my spare radio, Yaesu FT-450, to drive  the amp I have
 no
  nuisance
  tripping on any band while running 45-50 watts into  the amp. 
 Neither
  radio
  has ALC hooked up, only the TR relay.  Both  radios and amp are
 grounded to
  the same ground buss.  RF calibration was  done when the radio
 was
  assembled and I have not re-done that process.
 
  Any ideas as to why the radio would exhibit a tendency to over
 drive the
  amp just on 75/80 meters?
 
  Mike N9QR
 
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Post: 

Re: [Elecraft] [K2] how much harder to build: K2 vs K1?

2010-01-20 Thread Gary D Krause
Good choice.  That's exactly what I did almost three years ago.  It won't take 
you long to get the hang of soldering.  There are some great tutorials on the 
Elecraft site as well as other places on the internet.  The most important 
thing is to have good tools, including a mat and a good soldering station.  I 
found that there isn't a lot of skill involved in soldering and most of it is 
just common sense and having a steady hand.  I figured if I had bought all of 
the smaller kits just to practice soldering, I wouldn't have had enough to buy 
the K2! ;-)

You'll do fine and operating the K2 is a blast.

Have fun,
Gary, N7HTS


On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 13:16:46 -0800 (PST)
  lstavenhagen lstavenha...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 Hi everyone,
 
 Been a couple weeks here since I started this thread, but I've actually
 changed my mind and ended up going with the K2. I thought it over a bit more
 and decided that the K2 base unit has everything I wanted in it so it was
 best to just get it from the start. Also since I'm in no hurry a longer
 build time isn't of much concern. I plan to just take my time and use it as
 a learning experience (I have my 706MIIG to use on the air in the meanwhile
 too).
 
 I'm going to start practicing my soldering skills here on some junk boards I
 have too.
 
 The only option I can think of that I might add later is the KPA100 100W
 upgrade. That's a ways down the road and only after I get the main rig
 working ;).
 
 Looking forward to it!
 
 73,
 LS
 W5QD
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/how-much-harder-to-build-K2-vs-K1-tp4234815p4416236.html
 Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread David Christ
Very interesting.  I own a Precor treadmill.  I just went down and 
tested it.  No interference at all on 20.  Didn't check anything else.

Didn't pay $4500 for it either.  Got it from a dealer friend of mine. 
It was a new one that never worked so it sat in the warehouse.  He 
said I could have it if I could fix it.  In 10 minutes I found a bad 
RJ-45 connector.  Works great now.

Maybe I should put a small shelf on it so I can work treadmill mobile.

Any lawyers out there?  In a situation like this where a device's 
design and construction creates interference, does the owner have all 
the abatement responsibility or does the manufacturer retain the 
responsibility as they manufactured a defective device incapable of 
being operated legally?

David K0LUM

At 10:20 AM -0600 1/20/10, Steven Pituch wrote:
snip



   He stated that as far as he knows all treadmills except Precor and
Woodway use PWM to regulate the DC motor.  He said RFI could emanate from
the motor along the AC plug, or radiate from the PWM circuit.  He said that
if it was from the PWM it would be very difficult to resolve, as it would be
picked up by the antenna.  He said both types of interference were
definitely possible.  He also stated that if I wanted to buy a Precor or
Woodway I would be talking about $4500 for an entry level machine.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread Bob
If it were me I do not think I would furnish or propose any home made 
device as a solution.
Were there to be a failure in the treadmill shorty thereafter you can be 
sure where the blame
would be placed.  A really worse case scenario would be a fire.   Then 
it would be a let the law
suits begin situation.

I would look around  for some type of commercial line filter  that could 
be placed in the line.
To keep the money in the Ham marketplace here is a possible if the 
treadmill is under a 7 amp
load:

 http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/nqnaclinefilter.htm

I have no experience with this unit, or financial interest in it 
either.   But if the interference was
real aggravating to me I'd invest in a potential solution and propose 
something along these lines
as a  loaner. 

73,
Bob
K2TK


Don Ehrlich wrote:
 Bill,

 My own treadmill causes severe interference here in the house.  I'm the only 
 one who uses it so it does not affect my own radio but it blanks out any AM 
 radio in the house that happens to be turned on.  I reduced the noise to an 
 insignificant level by simply plugging a few microfarads of film capacitor 
 into the same power outlet that the treadmill is plugged in to.  I just 
 wired up the capacitors to an AC plug in a neat little package that looks 
 like a big wall wart.  The interference definitely is carried throughout the 
 house by the wiring.  I suspect that if your neighbor would agree to plug a 
 similar module into the same outlet as is his treadmill that it would 
 improve your noise situation.

 Don K7FJ



   
 Thank you Elecraft reflector members for all of the great suggestions on 
 this QRN problem..  With your help I was able to locate the problem.   I 
 would of not found it without your help.

 Now, I have no idea what to do about the issue, perhaps nothing.  I now 
 know the source.

 It's my neighbors treadmill.  We share a power transformer (underground 
 utilities).  Although I bet the noise is from a motor arching and most 
 likely is radiating at the motor as opposed to being carried on the power 
 line.  I have hope as he is not a ultra marathon runner and his runs 
 rarely cause a QRT of over an hour.

 If you want to hear the sound click on the Flickr link:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279625626/in/photostream/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279577818/in/photostream/

 Thank you again list members for allowing me to tap the collective :)
 73,
 Bill
 AK5X


 On Jan 16, 2010, at 1:34 PM, Bill Hammond wrote:

 
 I have been chasing this noise in my urban neighborhood for several years 
 now.  It usually visits during the daylight hours and stays for several 
 hours. It has a rhythm and is across all frequencies and bands.  I have 
 pulled the big switch in my house and the noise is still with me 
 (listening on battery powered rigs).  Neighbors on all sides of my city 
 sized lot  have swimming pools and my first suspicion is noise generated 
 by circulation pumps.

 Here are two  recordings (on a K3 of coarse).  Why not ask the most 
 discriminating radio fans in the world their opinions on the source?

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279625626/in/photostream/


 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279577818/in/photostream/


 Bill Hammond-AK5X
 wham...@aol.com
 a...@mac.com
 a...@sbcglobal.net
 K3 #69
 K2/100 #4637
 K1 #2033
 KX1 #1023
 T1




   
 Bill Hammond-AK5X
 wham...@aol.com
 a...@mac.com
 a...@sbcglobal.net
 K3 #69
 K2/100 #4637
 K1 #2033
 KX1 #1023
 T1


 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi David,
I don't know if treadmills are FCC Part 15 devices. I have not found the FCC
statement in the manual for the treadmill I ordered.  Part 15 devices are
allowed to radiate as long as someone doesn't complain of the RFI to a
licensed service.  If that happens try to convince your neighbor that it is
illegal to operate his plasma TV.

Steve, W2MY 
(I'm not a lawyer)

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[Elecraft] CM500 Powering from K2

2010-01-20 Thread Jim Brown
A week or so ago, KS4L asked for info on powering the CM500 from 
his K2. He tried the instructions I gave, but it didn't work. Bear 
in mind here that several variations of output stages are used for 
the FET impedance converter in electret mics, and not all mfrs wire 
them the same way to their plugs. For this reason, a single 
powering method doesn't work for all electret mics. We learned this 
two decades ago in the pro audio world when we started using 
lavalier (clip-on) mics with wireless mic transmitters, and every 
mfr of both mics and wireless systems published lots of info about 
how to hook their stuff up. 

The CM500 works directly with the K3, so I looked at what the K3 
does for power. It's 5.6K to the tip only. The K3 makes no 
connection to the ring. Randy tried that and it works fine. 

So -- revised advice. From the CM500 mic plug, wire the tip to the 
mic input, add a 5.6K resistor between +DC on the K2 mic jack and 
the mic input. The resistor value is not critical, 4.7K to 8.2K 
should work fine. There is very little current, so very small 
resistors are fine. The sleeve (common) of the plug goes to common 
at the mic jack. 

The same wiring should work with this mic for nearly all other ham 
rigs. 

I would expect the CM500 to work really well with the K2. One of 
the few shortcomings of the K2 is that since it was originally 
designed as a QRP CW rig, the support for SSB is not a strong 
point. One way this shows up is in relatively low audio gain and 
not enough LF rolloff. The CM500 helps this situation, first 
because it's a pretty hot mic (that is, higher than average 
output level) and because the low end is rolled off internally. 

There are several published mods to improve the gain of the SSB 
signal chain, some of which go all the way to the RF end of the 
chain. I took the simpler approach, modifying my K2s by changing a 
few resistors and capacitors in the mic stages to provide rolloff 
around 500 Hz and increase the gain by about 7dB. This allows the 
mic to hit the compressor harder (and the rolloff prevents low 
frequency sounds from hitting the compressor), making the audio 
more competitive. The CM500 should provide the same improvements 
but without the mods. 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

You are so right about that.  I might further state that anything which 
plugs into the AC outlet must have UL or other testing lab approval 
stickers on it, so giving a neighbor an unapproved homebrew device opens 
to door for liability.

73,
Don W3FPR

Bob wrote:
 If it were me I do not think I would furnish or propose any home made 
 device as a solution.
 Were there to be a failure in the treadmill shorty thereafter you can be 
 sure where the blame
 would be placed.  A really worse case scenario would be a fire.   Then 
 it would be a let the law
 suits begin situation.

 I would look around  for some type of commercial line filter  that could 
 be placed in the line.
 To keep the money in the Ham marketplace here is a possible if the 
 treadmill is under a 7 amp
 load:

  http://www.arraysolutions.com/Products/nqnaclinefilter.htm

 I have no experience with this unit, or financial interest in it 
 either.   But if the interference was
 real aggravating to me I'd invest in a potential solution and propose 
 something along these lines
 as a  loaner. 

 73,
 Bob
 K2TK


 Don Ehrlich wrote:
   
 Bill,

 My own treadmill causes severe interference here in the house.  I'm the only 
 one who uses it so it does not affect my own radio but it blanks out any AM 
 radio in the house that happens to be turned on.  I reduced the noise to an 
 insignificant level by simply plugging a few microfarads of film capacitor 
 into the same power outlet that the treadmill is plugged in to.  I just 
 wired up the capacitors to an AC plug in a neat little package that looks 
 like a big wall wart.  The interference definitely is carried throughout the 
 house by the wiring.  I suspect that if your neighbor would agree to plug a 
 similar module into the same outlet as is his treadmill that it would 
 improve your noise situation.

 Don K7FJ



   
 
 Thank you Elecraft reflector members for all of the great suggestions on 
 this QRN problem..  With your help I was able to locate the problem.   I 
 would of not found it without your help.

 Now, I have no idea what to do about the issue, perhaps nothing.  I now 
 know the source.

 It's my neighbors treadmill.  We share a power transformer (underground 
 utilities).  Although I bet the noise is from a motor arching and most 
 likely is radiating at the motor as opposed to being carried on the power 
 line.  I have hope as he is not a ultra marathon runner and his runs 
 rarely cause a QRT of over an hour.

 If you want to hear the sound click on the Flickr link:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279625626/in/photostream/
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279577818/in/photostream/

 Thank you again list members for allowing me to tap the collective :)
 73,
 Bill
 AK5X


 On Jan 16, 2010, at 1:34 PM, Bill Hammond wrote:

 
   
 I have been chasing this noise in my urban neighborhood for several years 
 now.  It usually visits during the daylight hours and stays for several 
 hours. It has a rhythm and is across all frequencies and bands.  I have 
 pulled the big switch in my house and the noise is still with me 
 (listening on battery powered rigs).  Neighbors on all sides of my city 
 sized lot  have swimming pools and my first suspicion is noise generated 
 by circulation pumps.

 Here are two  recordings (on a K3 of coarse).  Why not ask the most 
 discriminating radio fans in the world their opinions on the source?

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279625626/in/photostream/


 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/4279577818/in/photostream/


 Bill Hammond-AK5X
 wham...@aol.com
 a...@mac.com
 a...@sbcglobal.net
 K3 #69
 K2/100 #4637
 K1 #2033
 KX1 #1023
 T1




   
 
 Bill Hammond-AK5X
 wham...@aol.com
 a...@mac.com
 a...@sbcglobal.net
 K3 #69
 K2/100 #4637
 K1 #2033
 KX1 #1023
 T1


 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread Paul Christensen
 I would look around  for some type of commercial line filter  that could
 be placed in the line.

Before purchasing a line RFI/EMI filter, the noise path and manner of 
propagation requires investigation.  If RFI radiation is occurring as a 
result of coupling from a power supply or display module (for example) onto 
a cable wiring harness but is not associated with the AC line path, then 
adding a line filter is a wasted expense.

Techniques used for investigating and localizing a noise path can be found 
in the RFI mail list archives.

Paul, W9AC
 

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[Elecraft] K2: Old Filter question - - (underwater noise)

2010-01-20 Thread dw
Geoff asked for the web-site

Here is one of the links:

http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/Mod_To_Improve_K2_CW_Filter_Rejection.pdf


N1BBR
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Local QRN what is it? UPDATE!

2010-01-20 Thread Don Ehrlich
Well ... a 2 horse motor (output) will be consuming about 1.5 Kw if 
operating at its maximum rating.  Even if not maxed out it is likely to be 
well over the ratings of any commercial line filter that we are likely to 
find.

Localizing the source is no problem.  It is the treadmill.  If the common 
mode and differential mode conducted noise in the line cord going to the 
wall can be suppressed then the noise is contained to the treadmill.  My 
homebrew approach worked for me but the point about liability is well taken. 
The only completely safe way to handle the noise may be to add a few pounds 
of ferrite to the line cord to suppress the common mode HF current.  Just 
kidding .. same problem of liability .. or at least blame for whatever 
problems the user may perceive.   My guess is there is not really anything 
to be done.

In years past I was an avionics EMI hunter and I just cannot resist the 
temptation to comment.  But I'm done now.

Don K7FJ






 I would look around  for some type of commercial line filter  that could
 be placed in the line.

 Before purchasing a line RFI/EMI filter, the noise path and manner of
 propagation requires investigation.  If RFI radiation is occurring as a
 result of coupling from a power supply or display module (for example) 
 onto
 a cable wiring harness but is not associated with the AC line path, then
 adding a line filter is a wasted expense.

 Techniques used for investigating and localizing a noise path can be found
 in the RFI mail list archives.

 Paul, W9AC


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[Elecraft] GFI trip

2010-01-20 Thread r miles
 My XYL  I built this house . We wired it  used  GFIs where required . Even 
where they weren't. Most were Chinese. Two were American.  I've had RF trip 
both kinds. Just random trips with nothing repeatable time after time. I found 
the easiest way to fix the problem was just replace the GFI. I  have no idea if 
it was component failure or just freak incident .Replacing has almost  always 
stopped the trips.I only had a pull one unrequired one  leave  the GFI out. 
Trips  would occur  every few months or so. Chinese.   For what it's worthI 
operate 160m thru 6m   no particular freq was worse than another. My old IC 
746 would lock on 40m CW once in a while but that's another RF  story
K9IL
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[Elecraft] My K3-100 Kit!

2010-01-20 Thread James Harris
Good morning, Folks.
 
I just want to share an experience I've just had with my K3-100 Kit: which by 
the way worked from day one right out of the box.  [That's a miracle in 
itself since I assembled it!  But of course that's what Team Elecraft planned 
all along!]  
 
Don't run for the hills.  It was fantastic experience!
 
I should point out that I'm definitely not a tech-type but rather just an [AO] 
appliance operator for the past 34 years.  I'm also definitely not apologizing 
but just explaining that I'm proud to be a part of this fraternity in any 
capacity.   
Yesterday late, our neighborhood experienced a power hiccup.  I soon 
thereafter turned my K3 off for the day and went QRP with my K1 and 
Sierra Radio [also sorta kinda an Elecraft radio, right?].  I have a fourth HF 
rig and it's a FB Ten Tec Corsair II that I've had about 25 years.  The Corsair 
II setup and has recently been serviced by the factory for a complete 
renovation/rejuvenation!  So, my station is an 100% FB ALL AMERICAN station I'm 
proud to say!
  
This morning I came in and turned on my pride-and-joy K3.  It sounded funny 
[not the humorous kind of funny] and acted weird [and I do mean weird weird!].  
My first thought was, Oh my gosh, I'm going to have to send it in for 
repair.  It's still under warranty but still I didn't want to go that route 
except as a last resort.
 
After my heart-wrenching fear subsided, I remembered maybe if I used a feature 
in the Elecraft Utility that Restores your configuration all would be well.  
Luckily I save my configuration from time to time.
 
So I ran RESTORE.  Voila [or whatever], all is well again here.  I never 
really understood why you would want or need to save your configuration but now 
I know.  
 
Thanks for the foresight of Team Elecraft.
 
Every day I'm amazed at the capabilities of my K3.  For 10 months now it has 
been my pride and joy.  I've owned 8-10 rigs [American and Rice Burners] over 
the years but never one that has been so much fun to operate and given so much 
pride in ownership.  
 
I work a lot of 20m CW DX [I don't necessarilly chase DX] and it's fun to tell 
the other station the rig I'm running at 90 watts.  More and more though, they 
come back and tell me they're also using one of the Elecraft rigs and some 
might have several other Elecraft rigs in their shack.  [They sure sound 
GREAT!  I hope mine sounds just 1/2 as good.]
 
I'm also very appreciative to Team Elecraft as I know with each and every 
update of Firmware, I will have a new radio AGAIN and not an outdated one..  
To this retiree, that makes my K3 economically justifiable.
 
Team Elecraft, I'm 210% satisfied with S/N 2802!
 
Best 72  73.
 
Jim
WA4NTM
K1 S/N 2580
SIERRA no S/N
K2-100 [Just a dream] 
K3 S/N 2802  
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Re: [Elecraft] Pink K3 bag is a royal idea [END of Thread]

2010-01-20 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Let's end this thread for now.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ
Elecraft Moderator
===

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Old Filter question - - (underwater noise)

2010-01-20 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Thanks Duane. The coupling between the pcb traces that run between W2 and J9 
and between W3 and J10 are the main cause of filter blow-by in my K2/100 
#3255. If I did not use my K2 in SSB mode, I would be tempted to cut them.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


dw bw...@fastmail.fm wrote on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 at 5:43 PM:

 Geoff asked for the web-site

 Here is one of the links:

 http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/Mod_To_Improve_K2_CW_Filter_Rejection.pdf


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[Elecraft] K2, S/N6780, Receiver Pre-Alignment Question

2010-01-20 Thread alan latz
Should I be able to use the Elecraft N-Gen or XG2 signal generator to do my
pre-alignment steps on page 79.

I have no RF generator with me here as I winter in Sebring, FL, trying to
build and finish my K2. I can get the 10meg output from my Heath frequency
counter to come thru and adjust L8 and L9 for max signal strength. Also
while tuning across the dial I get at one point, voices in Spanish so I have
to assume the radio is somewhat working. This is with a two foot shielded rf
cable connected between the antenna input and the freq counter.

If the N-Gen or XG2 set a 50 micro volts is enough to do the peaking of the
coils, what have I missed when trying to hear their input via headphones?

The manual says that I should be able to use the N-Gen.

Alan Latz KA9UCP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Alpha 91b

2010-01-20 Thread Roy Morris
Mike,
If your Alpha 91b does not trip out at 1500 watts on 75 meters SSB using other 
transceivers, then it looks as if your K3 may be either putting out a spike or 
the power output is not stable.  You might want to go through the following K3 
calibration procedures:

1) Synthesizer Calibration
2) Filter Setup (all five precedures listed for each filter installed).
3) Reference Oscillator Calibration
4) TX Gain Calibration on all bands

Hope this helps.  Best 73,  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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[Elecraft] Elecraft P3 Pricing

2010-01-20 Thread Brett Howard
Ok so we're a month out from projections...  So I'm not asking for a
release date or a manual, or anything physically related to the
product but I'd imagine that the hardware must be at least fairly
solidified if its close as we've been hearing...

So how about a projected cost with a slightly finer point on it.  Not
even a final cost... Just a projection... Perhaps even a slight
tighter window around were it may fall?

~Brett
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[Elecraft] Heil headset with K3

2010-01-20 Thread cqtestk4xs
I've been using a Heil Quiet Phone headset (HC 4 cartridge) from  the very 
first day I got my K3.  It took a bit of trial and error to  find the 
correct settings.  I did not use the monitor to set it up, I used  another xcvr 
listening to the transmitted signal.
 
Not a day goes by that I don't get an unsolicited comment that goes  
something like excellent audio.  I even got two notices from ARRL  Official 
Observers complimenting the audio.
 
This is not to say that the HC4 element works for everyone's voice,  just 
that it does a good job with mine, which is somewhat low  pitched.
 
My settings: 
Mic gain 7
Compression. 24
audio shapingI flatten the highs, keep the midrange flat,  and 
boost the lows.
 
Your mileage my vary.
 
Bill KH7XS
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread David Woolley (E.L)
Rich wrote:
 I had a situation with an older (analog) power supply (that had its negative
 side grounded to the main AC ground) that tripped the Ground Fault Circuit
 Interrupter (GFCI) in one of the bathrooms.  Eliminating the bond to ground

I consider this dangerous advice.  If you have an ELCB tripping, you do 
not treat the problem symptomatically, by creating an unsafer system, 
you find out what the real problem is and you fix it.

I can't tell what the exact wiring configuration is here, but it is very 
likely that you have created a situation where there are pieces of metal 
in reach which have low impedance paths to very different earths.


-- 
David Woolley
we do not overly restrict the subject matter on the list, and we
encourage postings on a wide range of amateur radio related topics
List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread David Woolley (E.L)

Unless the power supply is a Class II double insulated device and there 
are no connections from any of your equipment to true ground, it is 
essential that all its exposed metal work is bonded to the mains ground 
with a connection that is very low impedance at mains frequency and 
capable of carrying the full rated current of the nearest fuse.

If you don't do this, in a fault situation you could get electrocuted 
because the chassis is at a large voltage compared with other exposed 
metalwork in the building.

Top posted by list policy. Incidentally, this seems to be about an 
amateur radio topic, so it is on topic.

Joe Planisky wrote:

 
  Should the negative side of a power supply be connected to the supply
  chassis (and thus to the green wire AC ground), or should it be left
  floating?  I have heard arguments both for and against floating the

-- 
David Woolley
we do not overly restrict the subject matter on the list, and we
encourage postings on a wide range of amateur radio related topics
List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] CM500 Powering from K2

2010-01-20 Thread David Y.
Jim and All,

The K3 provides the necessary bias through a menu setting.  The K2 requires 
an internal adjustment for whatever type microphone you are using, and how 
the 8 pin connector is wired.  I think all this is covered in the manual, 
but the bottom line is that for electrets, a resistor is added on the 
internal microphone wiring terminal which goes from the bias voltage supply 
connector to whatever pin the microphone uses for the microphone lead. 
Kenwood and Elecraft use pin 1 for the microphone lead, but some other 
microphones may have it on a different pin on the 8 pin connector.  My guess 
is that internally, KS4L didn't have his K2 wired to match whatever adapter 
he is using.  The K2 has only one input for the microphone, and that is the 
8 pin connector on the front.  So, the internal microphone terminal has to 
be wired accordingly so that the microphone pin selected (and the PTT, GND, 
etc.) will properly correlate to however the microphone connector (8 pin) he 
is using is wired.  Presumably he has some sort of pigtail wired up to 
convert from the 3.5 mm plug on the CM500 to an 8 pin connector which goes 
to the K2.

So, it's not necessarily your instructions that were wrong--it's just how 
was he going from the CM500 to the K2's front panel connector, and further, 
how is that wired internally--at least I think that must have been the 
problem.

Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 10:22 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] CM500 Powering from K2


A week or so ago, KS4L asked for info on powering the CM500 from
 his K2. He tried the instructions I gave, but it didn't work. Bear
 in mind here that several variations of output stages are used for
 the FET impedance converter in electret mics, and not all mfrs wire
 them the same way to their plugs. For this reason, a single
 powering method doesn't work for all electret mics. We learned this
 two decades ago in the pro audio world when we started using
 lavalier (clip-on) mics with wireless mic transmitters, and every
 mfr of both mics and wireless systems published lots of info about
 how to hook their stuff up.

 The CM500 works directly with the K3, so I looked at what the K3
 does for power. It's 5.6K to the tip only. The K3 makes no
 connection to the ring. Randy tried that and it works fine.

 So -- revised advice. From the CM500 mic plug, wire the tip to the
 mic input, add a 5.6K resistor between +DC on the K2 mic jack and
 the mic input. The resistor value is not critical, 4.7K to 8.2K
 should work fine. There is very little current, so very small
 resistors are fine. The sleeve (common) of the plug goes to common
 at the mic jack.

 The same wiring should work with this mic for nearly all other ham
 rigs.

 I would expect the CM500 to work really well with the K2. One of
 the few shortcomings of the K2 is that since it was originally
 designed as a QRP CW rig, the support for SSB is not a strong
 point. One way this shows up is in relatively low audio gain and
 not enough LF rolloff. The CM500 helps this situation, first
 because it's a pretty hot mic (that is, higher than average
 output level) and because the low end is rolled off internally.

 There are several published mods to improve the gain of the SSB
 signal chain, some of which go all the way to the RF end of the
 chain. I took the simpler approach, modifying my K2s by changing a
 few resistors and capacitors in the mic stages to provide rolloff
 around 500 Hz and increase the gain by about 7dB. This allows the
 mic to hit the compressor harder (and the rolloff prevents low
 frequency sounds from hitting the compressor), making the audio
 more competitive. The CM500 should provide the same improvements
 but without the mods.

 73,

 Jim Brown K9YC



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[Elecraft] K2 - Variable Power Out

2010-01-20 Thread Fred Jensen
I know this has been discussed in the past, but due to the storms here 
on the US West Coast, our wireless access is down and I'm relegated to 
... gasp! ... dial-up, so surfing the archives is sort of a non-starter 
right now.  One of the perils of living in rural areas, I guess.

My K2/100 has developed a variable power syndrome.  I set it at 50W, put 
it in TUNE, and the power out is more or less 50W, but pulses up to 
maybe 90W at fairly regular intervals of about 1 - 1.5 sec.  If I set 
the power much above 50W, when it pulses up it resets, and I get the 
ELECRAFT display.  Other than that, it all works find, TX and RX.

I thought it might be the 15A supply I was using so I put it on a 40A 
supply built like a tank.  Still does is, scope says nothing is 
happening to the power source.

I'll take all ideas.  I have a K3, so this isn't a disaster of any 
proportion [in the ham radio sense], but I do use my K2.  If the winds 
blow my antennas down, I won't be using either of them, unfortunately.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
The AC side should always be connected to the power supply chassis - 
unless it is of the double insulated design where no ungrounded 
metallic part can come into contact with the human body.  Yes, cutting 
the AC green wire ground is a dangerous thing indeed - the entire 
chassis could rise to the AC mains voltage in the event of a fault.

The power supply negative *can* certainly be floating *if* the designer 
made provisions for doing that.  It requires that all the common 
connections on the secondary side of the transformer are isolated from 
ground.  As I recall, Astrons are not built that way.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Rich wrote:
   
 I had a situation with an older (analog) power supply (that had its negative
 side grounded to the main AC ground) that tripped the Ground Fault Circuit
 Interrupter (GFCI) in one of the bathrooms.  Eliminating the bond to ground
 

 I consider this dangerous advice.  If you have an ELCB tripping, you do 
 not treat the problem symptomatically, by creating an unsafer system, 
 you find out what the real problem is and you fix it.

 I can't tell what the exact wiring configuration is here, but it is very 
 likely that you have created a situation where there are pieces of metal 
 in reach which have low impedance paths to very different earths.
   

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[Elecraft] K-2 S Meter calibration using a XG-2

2010-01-20 Thread Phillip Buckholdt
Can anyone point me to info to calibrate the K-2 S meter using a XG-2 ?

 Thanks
 Phil K8MBY
 K-3609 new owner K-2  3511
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Joe Planisky
Correct, and I agree that the power supply chassis should be connected  
to the AC (mains) safety ground.  But that wasn't the situation I was  
asking about.  I was asking whether the negative side of the DC output  
should be connected to the chassis.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Jan 20, 2010, at 2:57 PM, David Woolley (E.L) wrote:


 Unless the power supply is a Class II double insulated device and  
 there are no connections from any of your equipment to true ground,  
 it is essential that all its exposed metal work is bonded to the  
 mains ground with a connection that is very low impedance at mains  
 frequency and capable of carrying the full rated current of the  
 nearest fuse.

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Re: [Elecraft] K-2 S Meter calibration using a XG-2

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil,

You will find that information on page 7 of the XG2 manual.

minor nit-pick ON.
Note that there is *no* hyphen in any Elecraft model designation except 
for the N-Gen.
minor nit-pick OFF.

73,
Don W3FPR

Phillip Buckholdt wrote:
 Can anyone point me to info to calibrate the K-2 S meter using a XG-2 ?

  Thanks
  Phil K8MBY
  K-3609 new owner K-2  3511
   

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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

This creates a situation that is potentially hazardous 
to your equipment.  The AC third (green) wire is supposed 
to be connected to ground only at the main panel/service 
entrance.  However, since it is connected to the chassis 
of the power supply, it is also connected through the power 
supply and radio to ground via the coaxial cable. 

If the point at which the coaxial cables enter the building 
is not the same place that power enters the building, any 
nearby lightning strike can set up a significant difference 
in voltage between the power line safety ground and the 
RF ground (feedline shields/tower).  That difference can 
fry any electronics connected to both grounds. 

There are techniques for dealing with this problem ... but 
they are not necessarily easy or inexpensive. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
  

 


 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:01 PM
 To: David Woolley (E.L)
 Cc: Rich; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?
 
 
 The AC side should always be connected to the power supply chassis - 
 unless it is of the double insulated design where no ungrounded 
 metallic part can come into contact with the human body.  
 Yes, cutting 
 the AC green wire ground is a dangerous thing indeed - the entire 
 chassis could rise to the AC mains voltage in the event of a fault.
 
 The power supply negative *can* certainly be floating *if* 
 the designer 
 made provisions for doing that.  It requires that all the common 
 connections on the secondary side of the transformer are 
 isolated from 
 ground.  As I recall, Astrons are not built that way.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
  Rich wrote:

  I had a situation with an older (analog) power supply 
 (that had its 
  negative side grounded to the main AC ground) that tripped 
 the Ground 
  Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) in one of the bathrooms.  
  Eliminating the bond to ground
  
 
  I consider this dangerous advice.  If you have an ELCB 
 tripping, you 
  do
  not treat the problem symptomatically, by creating an 
 unsafer system, 
  you find out what the real problem is and you fix it.
 
  I can't tell what the exact wiring configuration is here, but it is 
  very
  likely that you have created a situation where there are 
 pieces of metal 
  in reach which have low impedance paths to very different earths.

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Variable Power Out

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

I certainly can't help with your internet access - but perhaps I can 
help with your K2/100 problem.
Go to the Elecraft website and find the K2 Optional Power Control Mod - 
or use the direct link http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Power_Control_Mod.html.

If that does not help, you may have a problem with the KPA100 wattmeter 
section.

73,
Don W3FPR

Fred Jensen wrote:
 I know this has been discussed in the past, but due to the storms here 
 on the US West Coast, our wireless access is down and I'm relegated to 
 ... gasp! ... dial-up, so surfing the archives is sort of a non-starter 
 right now.  One of the perils of living in rural areas, I guess.

 My K2/100 has developed a variable power syndrome.  I set it at 50W, put 
 it in TUNE, and the power out is more or less 50W, but pulses up to 
 maybe 90W at fairly regular intervals of about 1 - 1.5 sec.  If I set 
 the power much above 50W, when it pulses up it resets, and I get the 
 ELECRAFT display.  Other than that, it all works find, TX and RX.

 I thought it might be the 15A supply I was using so I put it on a 40A 
 supply built like a tank.  Still does is, scope says nothing is 
 happening to the power source.

 I'll take all ideas.  I have a K3, so this isn't a disaster of any 
 proportion [in the ham radio sense], but I do use my K2.  If the winds 
 blow my antennas down, I won't be using either of them, unfortunately.

 73,

 Fred K6DGW
 Auburn CA
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Joe,

That is *one* reason *any* ground rod should be tied back to the utility 
ground stake.  It is as requirement of NEC, and should not be ignored.  
If you drive ground rods for the ham station, connect those ground rods 
to the utility entrance ground rod - no exceptions.  The ideal is #6 or 
larger wire, but if you cannot do that use whatever wire you can.  Your 
safety depends on it.  If you cannot connect extra ground rods to the AC 
mains entry ground, then do not drive those extra ground rods - they are 
*not* an RF ground (see my many posts in the archives on that topic) - 
and as Joe points out, in the event of a lightning strike (or equipment 
fault), they may create a dangerous condition.

You have 3 grounds to consider in the hamshack - 1) The AC safety 
ground,  2) The lightning path ground, and 3) The RF ground.
1) and 2) may be one and the same, but 3) is a horse of a different 
color, and has nothing to do with a mother earth ground - it is a 
point of low impedance at the frequency of interest, and usually exists 
at some point in the antenna system, quite apart from mother earth.  
The English folks have the language a bit better and refer to earthing 
which is often apart from grounding, but we here in the US use the 
same term for all common connections and in the process create confusion 
for ourselves.

73,
Don W3FPR

Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 This creates a situation that is potentially hazardous 
 to your equipment.  The AC third (green) wire is supposed 
 to be connected to ground only at the main panel/service 
 entrance.  However, since it is connected to the chassis 
 of the power supply, it is also connected through the power 
 supply and radio to ground via the coaxial cable. 

 If the point at which the coaxial cables enter the building 
 is not the same place that power enters the building, any 
 nearby lightning strike can set up a significant difference 
 in voltage between the power line safety ground and the 
 RF ground (feedline shields/tower).  That difference can 
 fry any electronics connected to both grounds. 

 There are techniques for dealing with this problem ... but 
 they are not necessarily easy or inexpensive. 

 73, 

... Joe, W4TV 
   

  


   
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:01 PM
 To: David Woolley (E.L)
 Cc: Rich; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?


 The AC side should always be connected to the power supply chassis - 
 unless it is of the double insulated design where no ungrounded 
 metallic part can come into contact with the human body.  
 Yes, cutting 
 the AC green wire ground is a dangerous thing indeed - the entire 
 chassis could rise to the AC mains voltage in the event of a fault.

 The power supply negative *can* certainly be floating *if* 
 the designer 
 made provisions for doing that.  It requires that all the common 
 connections on the secondary side of the transformer are 
 isolated from 
 ground.  As I recall, Astrons are not built that way.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 
 Rich wrote:
   
   
 I had a situation with an older (analog) power supply 
 
 (that had its 
 
 negative side grounded to the main AC ground) that tripped 
 
 the Ground 
 
 Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) in one of the bathrooms.  
 Eliminating the bond to ground
 
 
 I consider this dangerous advice.  If you have an ELCB 
   
 tripping, you 
 
 do
 not treat the problem symptomatically, by creating an 
   
 unsafer system, 
 
 you find out what the real problem is and you fix it.

 I can't tell what the exact wiring configuration is here, but it is 
 very
 likely that you have created a situation where there are 
   
 pieces of metal 
 
 in reach which have low impedance paths to very different earths.
   

   
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 Version: 9.0.730 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2634 - Release Date: 01/20/10 
 04:12:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
Joe and all,

I would also like to point out that the situation Joe presents can be 
the source of sneak ground path currents which can contribute to noise 
at your station.  By all means, connect any ham related ground rods to 
the AC mains entry point ground rod.  I don't care how you accomplish 
that - just do it.  If it reduces noise in your receiver, that is a 
benefit, but if not, be assured that your shack will be a more safe 
place to inhabit.

73,
Don W3FPR

Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 This creates a situation that is potentially hazardous 
 to your equipment.  The AC third (green) wire is supposed 
 to be connected to ground only at the main panel/service 
 entrance.  However, since it is connected to the chassis 
 of the power supply, it is also connected through the power 
 supply and radio to ground via the coaxial cable. 

 If the point at which the coaxial cables enter the building 
 is not the same place that power enters the building, any 
 nearby lightning strike can set up a significant difference 
 in voltage between the power line safety ground and the 
 RF ground (feedline shields/tower).  That difference can 
 fry any electronics connected to both grounds. 

 There are techniques for dealing with this problem ... but 
 they are not necessarily easy or inexpensive. 

 73, 

... Joe, W4TV 
   

  


   
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:01 PM
 To: David Woolley (E.L)
 Cc: Rich; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?


 The AC side should always be connected to the power supply chassis - 
 unless it is of the double insulated design where no ungrounded 
 metallic part can come into contact with the human body.  
 Yes, cutting 
 the AC green wire ground is a dangerous thing indeed - the entire 
 chassis could rise to the AC mains voltage in the event of a fault.

 The power supply negative *can* certainly be floating *if* 
 the designer 
 made provisions for doing that.  It requires that all the common 
 connections on the secondary side of the transformer are 
 isolated from 
 ground.  As I recall, Astrons are not built that way.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 
 Rich wrote:
   
   
 I had a situation with an older (analog) power supply 
 
 (that had its 
 
 negative side grounded to the main AC ground) that tripped 
 
 the Ground 
 
 Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) in one of the bathrooms.  
 Eliminating the bond to ground
 
 
 I consider this dangerous advice.  If you have an ELCB 
   
 tripping, you 
 
 do
 not treat the problem symptomatically, by creating an 
   
 unsafer system, 
 
 you find out what the real problem is and you fix it.

 I can't tell what the exact wiring configuration is here, but it is 
 very
 likely that you have created a situation where there are 
   
 pieces of metal 
 
 in reach which have low impedance paths to very different earths.
   

   
 __
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 9.0.730 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2634 - Release Date: 01/20/10 
 04:12:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Quadra

2010-01-20 Thread Mike Stover
Dusty, I tried to reply direct but your Verizon account bounced the 
message:

Delivery has failed on the enclosed message for the following
reasons reported either by the mail delivery system on the mail
relay host or by the local TCP/IP transport module:

   550-JunkMail rejected - pool-71-188-180-
64.aubnin.fios.verizon.net

Here is the condensed version of what I replied:

There is a cable design that was developed by another ham on the 
Elecraft reflector.  The radio can be made to communicate with the 
Quadra.  I think you'll like the amp once it's all set up and 
communicating with the K3.  I just didn't want to dedicate the 15 pin 
accessory socket to driving the amp as I may have other uses for some 
of the signals found there.

Have fun on 6 meters!

Mike

From:   Dusty Chapman k...@verizon.net
To: n...@n9qr.com
Subject:K3 and Quadra
Date sent:  Wed, 20 Jan 2010 14:16:18 -0500

 Hi Mike,
I just read your post about the Alpha's and the Quadra.  I just
 purchased
 a used Quadra and haven't even taken it out of the boxes yet.  I was
 under
 the impression that the K3(with switching mod) could be wired to the
 Quadra
 via the ACC connector and it would switch bands automatically.  Is
 that not
 possible?  I bought the Quadra so that I could get on the air
 quickly(without warm up) and be able to call a station while waiting
 for my
 87A or VHF-2000 to warm up.  Three minutes, especially on 6 Meters,
 is an
 eternity and I have missed many many QSO's for DX  Band/Mode awards
 by
 having to wait(they all seem to QSY or QRT - hi hi).   
I look forward (possibly) to your answer.
 73, Dusty - K3WC
 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Richard S. Lindzen
Dear Don,

This leaves me a bit concerned.  I am planning to put up a K9AY 
receiving antenna in my backyard and it is supposed to be connected 
to a ground rod.  I had never seen it suggested that this must be 
connected to the utility ground stake.  I'm not even sure where the 
utility ground stake is.  I've never noticed one though I will ask my 
electrician.  If there is one, it is likely to be pretty far from the K9AY.

73,

Dick, KA1SA

At 10:22 PM 1/20/2010, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Joe,

That is *one* reason *any* ground rod should be tied back to the utility
ground stake.  It is as requirement of NEC, and should not be ignored.
If you drive ground rods for the ham station, connect those ground rods
to the utility entrance ground rod - no exceptions.  The ideal is #6 or
larger wire, but if you cannot do that use whatever wire you can.  Your
safety depends on it.  If you cannot connect extra ground rods to the AC
mains entry ground, then do not drive those extra ground rods - they are
*not* an RF ground (see my many posts in the archives on that topic) -
and as Joe points out, in the event of a lightning strike (or equipment
fault), they may create a dangerous condition.

You have 3 grounds to consider in the hamshack - 1) The AC safety
ground,  2) The lightning path ground, and 3) The RF ground.
1) and 2) may be one and the same, but 3) is a horse of a different
color, and has nothing to do with a mother earth ground - it is a
point of low impedance at the frequency of interest, and usually exists
at some point in the antenna system, quite apart from mother earth.
The English folks have the language a bit better and refer to earthing
which is often apart from grounding, but we here in the US use the
same term for all common connections and in the process create confusion
for ourselves.

73,
Don W3FPR

Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
  This creates a situation that is potentially hazardous
  to your equipment.  The AC third (green) wire is supposed
  to be connected to ground only at the main panel/service
  entrance.  However, since it is connected to the chassis
  of the power supply, it is also connected through the power
  supply and radio to ground via the coaxial cable.
 
  If the point at which the coaxial cables enter the building
  is not the same place that power enters the building, any
  nearby lightning strike can set up a significant difference
  in voltage between the power line safety ground and the
  RF ground (feedline shields/tower).  That difference can
  fry any electronics connected to both grounds.
 
  There are techniques for dealing with this problem ... but
  they are not necessarily easy or inexpensive.
 
  73,
 
 ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
  Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:01 PM
  To: David Woolley (E.L)
  Cc: Rich; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?
 
 
  The AC side should always be connected to the power supply chassis -
  unless it is of the double insulated design where no ungrounded
  metallic part can come into contact with the human body.
  Yes, cutting
  the AC green wire ground is a dangerous thing indeed - the entire
  chassis could rise to the AC mains voltage in the event of a fault.
 
  The power supply negative *can* certainly be floating *if*
  the designer
  made provisions for doing that.  It requires that all the common
  connections on the secondary side of the transformer are
  isolated from
  ground.  As I recall, Astrons are not built that way.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 
  Rich wrote:
 
 
  I had a situation with an older (analog) power supply
 
  (that had its
 
  negative side grounded to the main AC ground) that tripped
 
  the Ground
 
  Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) in one of the bathrooms.
  Eliminating the bond to ground
 
 
  I consider this dangerous advice.  If you have an ELCB
 
  tripping, you
 
  do
  not treat the problem symptomatically, by creating an
 
  unsafer system,
 
  you find out what the real problem is and you fix it.
 
  I can't tell what the exact wiring configuration is here, but it is
  very
  likely that you have created a situation where there are
 
  pieces of metal
 
  in reach which have low impedance paths to very different earths.
 
 
 
  __
  Elecraft mailing list
  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
  Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
  Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
  This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
  Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
 
 
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  Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
  Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
  Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Quadra

2010-01-20 Thread Greg
I use a quadra with my K3 and it works just great.  No problems at all.  
And you don't need to loose access to the K3 accy connector.

A company called Windford makes a breakout board for HD15 connectors 
just like the one in this link.  The link is for a DB9...they don't show 
the HD15 on the website but if you call them you can order them.  And of 
course you can always use an  HD15 Y cable.

I have a Y cable connected to the breakout board and the quadra.  Then 
another band decoder on the other HD15 connector on the breakout board.  
And you still have access to all the pins on the included header.  I 
mounted a DIN rail on the back of the station table with two of these 
snapped to the rail...one for each radio.

http://www.winfordeng.com/products/brk9mf.php

GL and 73
Greg
AB7R


On 1/20/2010 8:19 PM, Mike Stover wrote:
 Dusty, I tried to reply direct but your Verizon account bounced the
 message:

  Delivery has failed on the enclosed message for the following
  reasons reported either by the mail delivery system on the mail
  relay host or by the local TCP/IP transport module:

 550-JunkMail rejected - pool-71-188-180-
  64.aubnin.fios.verizon.net

 Here is the condensed version of what I replied:

 There is a cable design that was developed by another ham on the
 Elecraft reflector.  The radio can be made to communicate with the
 Quadra.  I think you'll like the amp once it's all set up and
 communicating with the K3.  I just didn't want to dedicate the 15 pin
 accessory socket to driving the amp as I may have other uses for some
 of the signals found there.

 Have fun on 6 meters!

 Mike

 From: Dusty Chapmank...@verizon.net
 To:   n...@n9qr.com
 Subject:  K3 and Quadra
 Date sent:Wed, 20 Jan 2010 14:16:18 -0500


 Hi Mike,
 I just read your post about the Alpha's and the Quadra.  I just
 purchased
 a used Quadra and haven't even taken it out of the boxes yet.  I was
 under
 the impression that the K3(with switching mod) could be wired to the
 Quadra
 via the ACC connector and it would switch bands automatically.  Is
 that not
 possible?  I bought the Quadra so that I could get on the air
 quickly(without warm up) and be able to call a station while waiting
 for my
 87A or VHF-2000 to warm up.  Three minutes, especially on 6 Meters,
 is an
 eternity and I have missed many many QSO's for DX  Band/Mode awards
 by
 having to wait(they all seem to QSY or QRT - hi hi).
 I look forward (possibly) to your answer.
 73, Dusty - K3WC


  

 __
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 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html



 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2634 - Release Date: 01/20/10 
 09:12:00


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[Elecraft] ATU END

2010-01-20 Thread Telegrapher
for some reason this evening when i tap the ATU button to check the tuning on 
various bands, started with 6 meters, i get the word END that pops up on the 
display.  Have no idea what i may have done..  All indications are normal and i 
used the rig today on 20 CW, again this evening on 6 SSB after fooling around 
with it.  the ATU is enabled on all bands and not in Bypass.  Does the same 
thing whether i'm in CW or SSb mode which are the two i operate 99 percent of 
the time anyway.  Any one tell me what's going on?  

Larry
W0OGH
#763
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?

2010-01-20 Thread Don Wilhelm
If *all* connections to the K9AY antenna (including 'sneak' paths) are 
isolated from the AC mains ground, the safety factor does not exist.  
The ground required by the K9AY antenna is an RF ground which is not 
necessarily (but may be) at the same potential as the AC mains ground 
and safety ground.  BUT, that same isolation may lead to ground currents 
that defeat the low noise characteristics of the K9AY antenna.  Ideally, 
all mother earth grounds should be connected to the AC mains ground by 
a wire.

Often the building inspector likes to see the AC mains ground buried 
beneath the surface of the earth so it is not subject to being hit by 
lawn mowers or other instruments of destruction.  There will be a bare 
#6 (or larger) wire going into the earth at your AC mains entry point - 
that is the wire that you must connect to.  Look for the type of 
connector that is used by the telephone company connection to this 
ground wire - it is usually a U shaped clamp with a nut for 
tightening.  Those type clamps are available at your local DIY store in 
their electrical department.

73,
Don W3FPR

Richard S. Lindzen wrote:
 Dear Don,

 This leaves me a bit concerned.  I am planning to put up a K9AY 
 receiving antenna in my backyard and it is supposed to be connected to 
 a ground rod.  I had never seen it suggested that this must be 
 connected to the utility ground stake.  I'm not even sure where the 
 utility ground stake is.  I've never noticed one though I will ask my 
 electrician.  If there is one, it is likely to be pretty far from the 
 K9AY.

 73,

 Dick, KA1SA

 At 10:22 PM 1/20/2010, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Joe,

 That is *one* reason *any* ground rod should be tied back to the utility
 ground stake.  It is as requirement of NEC, and should not be ignored.
 If you drive ground rods for the ham station, connect those ground rods
 to the utility entrance ground rod - no exceptions.  The ideal is #6 or
 larger wire, but if you cannot do that use whatever wire you can.  Your
 safety depends on it.  If you cannot connect extra ground rods to the AC
 mains entry ground, then do not drive those extra ground rods - they are
 *not* an RF ground (see my many posts in the archives on that topic) -
 and as Joe points out, in the event of a lightning strike (or equipment
 fault), they may create a dangerous condition.

 You have 3 grounds to consider in the hamshack - 1) The AC safety
 ground,  2) The lightning path ground, and 3) The RF ground.
 1) and 2) may be one and the same, but 3) is a horse of a different
 color, and has nothing to do with a mother earth ground - it is a
 point of low impedance at the frequency of interest, and usually exists
 at some point in the antenna system, quite apart from mother earth.
 The English folks have the language a bit better and refer to earthing
 which is often apart from grounding, but we here in the US use the
 same term for all common connections and in the process create confusion
 for ourselves.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
  This creates a situation that is potentially hazardous
  to your equipment.  The AC third (green) wire is supposed
  to be connected to ground only at the main panel/service
  entrance.  However, since it is connected to the chassis
  of the power supply, it is also connected through the power
  supply and radio to ground via the coaxial cable.
 
  If the point at which the coaxial cables enter the building
  is not the same place that power enters the building, any
  nearby lightning strike can set up a significant difference
  in voltage between the power line safety ground and the
  RF ground (feedline shields/tower).  That difference can
  fry any electronics connected to both grounds.
 
  There are techniques for dealing with this problem ... but
  they are not necessarily easy or inexpensive.
 
  73,
 
 ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 
 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
  Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 8:01 PM
  To: David Woolley (E.L)
  Cc: Rich; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding negative side of power supply?
 
 
  The AC side should always be connected to the power supply chassis -
  unless it is of the double insulated design where no ungrounded
  metallic part can come into contact with the human body.
  Yes, cutting
  the AC green wire ground is a dangerous thing indeed - the entire
  chassis could rise to the AC mains voltage in the event of a fault.
 
  The power supply negative *can* certainly be floating *if*
  the designer
  made provisions for doing that.  It requires that all the common
  connections on the secondary side of the transformer are
  isolated from
  ground.  As I recall, Astrons are not built that way.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 
  Rich wrote:
 
 
  I had a situation with an older (analog) power supply
 
  (that had its
 
  negative side 

Re: [Elecraft] K2, S/N6780, Receiver Pre-Alignment Question

2010-01-20 Thread Arie Kleingeld PA3A
Allen,

I built my K2 long ago and I'm not an expert.
For alignment of the K2 I used the noise and the signals from an antenna.
Never used a generator of some kind.

73
Arie PA3A

-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] Namens alan latz


Should I be able to use the Elecraft N-Gen or XG2 signal generator to do
my
pre-alignment steps on page 79.


Alan Latz KA9UCP


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