Re: [Elecraft] P3 suggestions

[Brett Howard]

Feature 1 is something that is being actively talked about with P3 field
testers...  Feature 2 already happens with the latest P3 firmware the
reference level is remembered per band.  As for feature 3 you may be
able to get by with what you want using the peak hold feature.  The
freeze feature is almost what you want but you can't move markers while
in that mode.  

~Brett (N7MG)


On Sun, 2010-09-19 at 22:06 -0700, Andy Faber wrote:
> Hi Al,
>   I finally built my own P3 yesterday (#152) and it seems to work great. 
> I'd like to revive three suggestions that I think I made earlier after using 
> a prototype at P49Y in WPX CW.  These are all based on features of the Icom 
> 756 Pro 2 bandscope, that I think are desirable:
> 1)  Can a FN key be set to go to a preset span?  It would be very nice to be 
> able to do so, instead of having to fiddle with the span knob each time you 
> want to look wide or narrow.  How about allowing a cycling among several 
> preset spans?
> 2) When one changes bands, it would be nice if the P3 automatically set its 
> reference level, so it didn't need manual adjustment.
> 3) The Pro has a "hold" feature that freezes the display to allow you to 
> move the marker to a signal that may have disappeared.  I realize to some 
> extent the waterfall display allows that also, but it would be nice to be 
> able to do so with the spectrum display also.
>   As before, congratulations to you and Elecraft on a fine piece of gear!
>  73, Andy, AE6Y 
> 
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[Elecraft] P3 suggestions

[Andy Faber]

Hi Al,
  I finally built my own P3 yesterday (#152) and it seems to work great. 
I'd like to revive three suggestions that I think I made earlier after using 
a prototype at P49Y in WPX CW.  These are all based on features of the Icom 
756 Pro 2 bandscope, that I think are desirable:
1)  Can a FN key be set to go to a preset span?  It would be very nice to be 
able to do so, instead of having to fiddle with the span knob each time you 
want to look wide or narrow.  How about allowing a cycling among several 
preset spans?
2) When one changes bands, it would be nice if the P3 automatically set its 
reference level, so it didn't need manual adjustment.
3) The Pro has a "hold" feature that freezes the display to allow you to 
move the marker to a signal that may have disappeared.  I realize to some 
extent the waterfall display allows that also, but it would be nice to be 
able to do so with the spectrum display also.
  As before, congratulations to you and Elecraft on a fine piece of gear!
 73, Andy, AE6Y 

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[Elecraft] Upgrading K3 firmware through the P3

[Alan Bloom]

On Sun, 2010-09-19 at 09:06 -1000, John Buck wrote:
> 
> Given a number of reports about trouble downloading the latest K3 and P3 
> firmware, I decided to report my success conditions.

Currently, in order to update K3 firmware with the P3 in line, you first
have to turn off the P3.  That can be done by simply tapping the POWER
switch unless you have the internal power-on jumper set to the "always
on" position.  In that case you have to remove the power cable to the P3
to turn it off.

If you forget to turn off the P3, then when you try to load K3 firmware
the K3 Utility will give a warning message and you can turn it off at
that time.

The problem occurs if somehow the P3 gets turned back on again after
that.  One way that can happen is if you cycle power to the K3 and the
P3 is getting its power from the K3's auxiliary power output jack.  If
the P3's power-on jumper is set to turn on automatically when power is
applied, then the K3 download process is disrupted which causes the K3
to hang up.  There is now a section in the manual with a step-by-step
procedure to recover from that.

We plan to add a feature to the P3 so that you don't have to turn it off
to upgrade K3 firmware.  It's high on the list.

Alan N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] [p3] Trap Conflict on FW 0.36

[Alan Bloom]

Hi Larry,

It sounds like there's a hardware problem with the P3.  You'll need to
contact customer support csg...@elecraft.com and get a return
authorization number.

Sorry!

73,

Alan N1AL


On Sat, 2010-09-18 at 08:22 -0400, Larry - K2GN wrote:
> I've reloaded all Firmware back to
> K3 - 4.05
> P3 - 0.32
> I'm still getting the Trap Conflict message on power on, then the P3 goes
> into normal operation, but I have to remove power from 12V source to shut it
> off.
> 
> de K2GN - Larry - http://k2gn.com
> K3 S/N - 3278P3 S/N - 51
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Larry - K2GN
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 6:57 PM
> To: Elecraft - K3
> Subject: [Elecraft] [p3] Trap Conflict on FW 0.36
> 
> Power ON/Off - Trap Conflict
> 
> After it's  on for a while and I power off, it gave me:
> 
> Trap Conflict, then start working.
> 
> I have to remove power to shut it down.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> Once I was able to power down using the switch and it gave me:
> 
> Download Firmware
> Ready for Download
> 
> And sits.  I can then turn power via the switch. 
> 
>  
> 
> I did the download and upload twice.
> 
> K3 has FW 4.12, this upload went well.
> 
> Anyone else with this problem?
> 
>  
> 
> de K2GN - Larry   - http://k2gn.com 
> 
> 
> K3 S/N - 3278P3 S/N - 51
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 Tuner and Alpha Delta DX-EE Dipole

[stan levandowski]

Ken and Brett, thanks for your responses.  It's all helpful.  I have to 
think this through now.

Thanks again,

Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992


On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 10:40 PM, Brett Howard wrote:

> The DX-EE isn't going to play all that well on 160 and 80.  I can tune
> it there with the K3's tuner but you don't hear all that much and they
> hear even less of you.
>
> On 40 the DX-EE has a very high Q and you can only get it to actually 
> be
> "ok" at a very small section of the band.  Beyond that you can expect
> some pretty low return loss figures.  Nothing that the tuner can't 
> make
> look reasonable to the radio but you're starting to get toward the 
> same
> performance that you'd see on 160 and 80.
>
> The antenna does pretty well on 20, 15 and 10 and can be tuned to work
> on the WARC bands.
> I know it'll get stripped off when I send this to the reflector but 
> I'm
> attaching some plots of the DX-EE.
>
> SWR WIDE is an SWR plot from 2Mhz to 60Mhz (not sure why I started so
> high but it doesn't matter).  I have this same plot showing return 
> loss
> but most hams are more familiar with SWR so I send that one.  I
> personally prefer return loss plots.
> I'm also attaching a smith chart of the antenna.  The numbered markers
> are on the same frequencies that were shown in the previous plot.
>
> These plots were taken using a $20,000 very recently calibrated 
> Agilent
> VNA with the antenna strung between two trees about 30ft up.  Now I 
> just
> need to go up and tune the antenna to come up into the bands where I
> want them I'm a bit low on each but that just means they are good on 
> the
> CW portions.  I think part of the reason they are about the same 
> amount
> low on every band is because of stretching over time.
>
> Anyway hopefully some of this information helps.
>
> ~Brett (N7MG)
>
>
> On Sun, 2010-09-19 at 21:49 -0400, stan levandowski wrote:
>> I would like to correspond with a K2/KAT2 owner who is actually using 
>> an Alpha-Delta DX-EE dipole.  This is a rather pricey "limited-space" 
>> antenna and would like to hear directly from some "real world" users. 
>> My guess is that there won't be too many of you out there but I 
>> thought I'd ask anyway.
>>
>> My fundamental question: Does the KAT2 get along with the DX-EE on 
>> all bands?
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
>> HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
>> QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 Tuner and Alpha Delta DX-EE Dipole

[Ken Kopp]

Stan, 

I have one that's used for a general purpose (mostly 
for diversity receiving) antenna in my SO2R station.  
It works like what it is ... a fan dipole.

It's -extremely- well made and the over-all quality is 
top-notch, but it's -heavy-, requiring my 150# to pull it 
"tight", and it still sags a bit.  Mine is supported with 3/8" 
Dacron rope, and I wouldn't want to use anything smaller.  
I can't imagine the nylon cord supplied with it supporting
it .  

It does not cover 30M, but the tuners in the my K2 and 
K3 handle it OK.  The 80M loading coils are detuned 
when wet or snow-covered.  

It isn't a "nice looking" antenna, if that's important to you.  
The neighbors -will- see it.  The heavy, solid conductors 
need to be "fussed" with to even come close to being 
straight.  Like all fan dipoles, it will need several trips
up and down for adjusting the interacting adjustments. (:-)

I also have an 80M Zepp fed with  2"-spaced  #14 open 
wire line that works all bands very easily and is a -lot- 
simpler. It's been in place for 35 years. (:-)  It's fed via 
a 4:1 2KW HB balun.

Both the antennas are between towers at the 65' level.

Probably more than you wanted to know 

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
   elecraftcov...@rfwave.net





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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) diversity - relay click

[Brett Howard]

Yep you're probably activating your carrier operated relays because you
don't have enough separation between your antennas.  Perhaps a limiter
could help if you're not transmitting on both of them.

~Brett (N7MG)

On Sun, 2010-09-19 at 23:09 -0300, Jorge Diez - CX6VM wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I am using diversity and I notice something like a relay inside the K3 when
> transmitting.
> 
> Some weeks ago Don told me about a problem I has with the RX ANT IN. The
> problem was that the antenna I was using in RX ANT IN was very close to the
> TX antenna.
> 
> In the case of diversity I have a 160 delta loop connected in AUX RF and a
> 160 sloper connected to the ANT1.
> 
> In this case the two antennas must be far away one from the other?
> 
> This is the same problem I had when using a RX antenna in RX ANT IN?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jorge
> CX6VM
> 
> -Mensaje original-
> De: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
> Enviado el: Domingo, 11 de Julio de 2010 09:51 a.m.
> Para: Jorge Diez - CX6VM
> CC: 'Elecraft Reflector'
> Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] continuous relay click in RX ANT IN
> 
> Jorge,
> 
> The clicking you hear is the COR (carrier operated relay) on the RX ANT 
> activating to protect the K3 receiver. 
> Your 40 mtr Yagi is picking up much more of your TX signal than the 
> Beverage. 
> You should take steps to reduce the amount of TX signal picked up by the 
> RX ant.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

[Brian Denley]

?I should add:  If I connect a small wire to my K2 antenna and press tune, 
it shows a strong signal on any of my receivers at that frequency.  So 
somethings coming out of the K2.  Either the ouput signal is low OR the K2 
RF detector just doesn't measure it correctly for the ALC circuit.
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: "Brian Denley" 
To: 
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


> ?I am just about at the end of my rope trying to get this K2 to transmit.
> Nothing is coming out of the transmitter because nothing seems to be going
> into the PA circuit.  The receiver circuits all work fine.  All RF board
> transistors and diodes check out fine as far as DC is concerned but my RF
> probe does not function and I am unable to find the fault.  I suspect the
> T/R switch or whatever circuit generates the RF signal in the first place
> but the trouble shooting help in the manual does not go yery deep on those
> issues.  What is my next step?  Does Elecraft offer a repair service?  I
> have been at this for 4 weeks now with no progress at all.
> Thanks
> Brian Denley
> http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html
>
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Don Wilhelm" 
> To: "Brian Denley" 
> Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power
>
>
>> On 9/7/2010 10:16 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
>>> Don:
>>> I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was
>>> able
>>> to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I
>>> have
>>> divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
>>> (all measurments Keydown)
>>>
>>> 1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 volts 
>>> this
>>> is
>>> HIGH
>>>
>>> 2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV
>>>
>>> 3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV
>>>
>>> 4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV
>>>
>>> 5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV
>>>
>>> 6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this 
>>> seems
>>> LOW
>
>>>7.)Driver Input (base of Q6):34 mV
>
>>>8.)Driver Output (collector of Q6):179 mVthis is
>>>VERY LOW
>
>>>9.)PA Inputy (base of Q7):80 mV 
>>>this
>>>seems HIGH
>
>>>10.)PA input (base of Q8):80 mV  this
>>>seems HIGH
>
>>>11.)RF Detector Input (anode of D9):143 mV  this is VERY
>>>LOW
>
>>>on my own I also measured:
>
>>>12.)base of Q5:43 mV
>
>>>13.)out of C10743 mV
>
>>>all of the DC voltages in column 1 on page 17 are normal
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power

[Brian Denley]

?I am just about at the end of my rope trying to get this K2 to transmit. 
Nothing is coming out of the transmitter because nothing seems to be going 
into the PA circuit.  The receiver circuits all work fine.  All RF board 
transistors and diodes check out fine as far as DC is concerned but my RF 
probe does not function and I am unable to find the fault.  I suspect the 
T/R switch or whatever circuit generates the RF signal in the first place 
but the trouble shooting help in the manual does not go yery deep on those 
issues.  What is my next step?  Does Elecraft offer a repair service?  I 
have been at this for 4 weeks now with no progress at all.
Thanks
Brian Denley
http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html


- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" 
To: "Brian Denley" 
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 11:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] No Transmit Power


> On 9/7/2010 10:16 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
>> Don:
>> I brought home a DSO5054A (very nice 500 MHz Agilent scope!) and I was 
>> able
>> to take the better measurements.  My measurements were in P-to-P but I 
>> have
>> divided them by 2.8 for RMS comparison:\
>> (all measurments Keydown)
>>
>> 1.)VPWR line (pin 2 of U8 on control board):5.0 voltsthis 
>> is
>> HIGH
>>
>> 2.)Xmit Mixer Output (pin 4 of U10):28 mV
>>
>> 3.)Buffer Output (pin 6 of U9):121 mV
>>
>> 4.)Band-Pass Filter Output (W6):42 mV
>>
>> 5.)T-R Switch #1 Output (anode of D1):41 mV
>>
>> 6.)Pre-Driver Output (collector of Q5):34 mV   this seems
>> LOW

>>7.)Driver Input (base of Q6):34 mV

>>8.)Driver Output (collector of Q6):179 mVthis is 
>>VERY LOW

>>9.)PA Inputy (base of Q7):80 mV   this 
>>seems HIGH

>>10.)PA input (base of Q8):80 mV  this 
>>seems HIGH

>>11.)RF Detector Input (anode of D9):143 mV  this is VERY 
>>LOW

>>on my own I also measured:

>>12.)base of Q5:43 mV

>>13.)out of C10743 mV

>>all of the DC voltages in column 1 on page 17 are normal

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 Tuner and Alpha Delta DX-EE Dipole

[WILLIS COOKE]

I have used an Alpha-Delta DX-DD for 40 and 80 at Field Day using a TS-480HX.  
It worked very well on 40 but was tuned for the SSB band on 80 and we were 
working CW, so not so good on 80.  I don't think the band was in good shape for 
80 anyway.  The quality of construction is very good in my opinion.  The 40 
performance is what you would expect from a 40 dipole.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: stan levandowski 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, September 19, 2010 8:49:48 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 Tuner and Alpha Delta DX-EE Dipole

I would like to correspond with a K2/KAT2 owner who is actually using an 
Alpha-Delta DX-EE dipole.  This is a rather pricey "limited-space" 
antenna and would like to hear directly from some "real world" users. 
My guess is that there won't be too many of you out there but I thought 
I'd ask anyway.

My fundamental question: Does the KAT2 get along with the DX-EE on all 
bands?

73,

Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
QCWA #35038  OOTC #4558  NAQCC #4740  SKCC #6488  FISTS #14992
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[Elecraft] (K3) diversity - relay click

[Jorge Diez - CX6VM]

Hello,

I am using diversity and I notice something like a relay inside the K3 when
transmitting.

Some weeks ago Don told me about a problem I has with the RX ANT IN. The
problem was that the antenna I was using in RX ANT IN was very close to the
TX antenna.

In the case of diversity I have a 160 delta loop connected in AUX RF and a
160 sloper connected to the ANT1.

In this case the two antennas must be far away one from the other?

This is the same problem I had when using a RX antenna in RX ANT IN?

Thanks,
Jorge
CX6VM

-Mensaje original-
De: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] 
Enviado el: Domingo, 11 de Julio de 2010 09:51 a.m.
Para: Jorge Diez - CX6VM
CC: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] continuous relay click in RX ANT IN

Jorge,

The clicking you hear is the COR (carrier operated relay) on the RX ANT 
activating to protect the K3 receiver. 
Your 40 mtr Yagi is picking up much more of your TX signal than the 
Beverage. 
You should take steps to reduce the amount of TX signal picked up by the 
RX ant.

73,
Don W3FPR


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[Elecraft] K2 - KAT2 Tuner and Alpha Delta DX-EE Dipole

[stan levandowski]

I would like to correspond with a K2/KAT2 owner who is actually using an 
Alpha-Delta DX-EE dipole.  This is a rather pricey "limited-space" 
antenna and would like to hear directly from some "real world" users. 
My guess is that there won't be too many of you out there but I thought 
I'd ask anyway.

My fundamental question: Does the KAT2 get along with the DX-EE on all 
bands?

73,

Stan Levandowski WB2LQF
HF QRP CW -- Doing more with less for over 50 years!
QCWA #35038   OOTC #4558   NAQCC #4740   SKCC #6488   FISTS #14992
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (9-19-10)

[Dick Roth, KA1OZ]

Once again, I'm afraid I heard nothing.  I started listening to 14.314 
from 1745 and continued until 1815 and I heard nothing but atmospherics. 
  During that time I qsy'd up and down to be sure I wasn't missing 
anything.  My antenna is a vertical and there is a rise in the land to 
the west of me.  Perhaps the combination cuts me off from the West!  I'm 
fine into eastern Europe, so I know that my rig's ears are fine.

I'll keep trying.


Phil and Christina wrote:
> Propagation seemed good this week, though the number of stations checking in
> was down a bit.  The discussions were on the availability of the KPA500
> (thanks to Lyle for being a good sport about it) and the need for the K3
> buffer mod if using the P3.  Thanks to everyone who checked in.  Here is the
> list of participants.
>
> Station   NameQTH Rig S/N
>
> VE3QF TonyON  K3  137
> AD5SX PaulNM  IC706MkIIG  (K3 had to go back to 
> Elecraft)
> WA9EBXLarry   KY  K3  4309
> W4WFB Roy NC  K2  2225
> W1ZI  JohnMA  K3  4103
> K4GCJ Gerry   NC  K3  1597
> KK7P  LyleWA  K3  3036
> W5LAD Jim TX  K3  1068
> W0CZ  Ken ND  K3  457
> W1VJ  MartMA  K3  427
> AI4VZ George  GA  K3  2412
> W4RKS Jim AL  K3  3618
> W6VY  Bob CA  K3  2765
> KB3FBRJoe PA  K2  6178
> AC0NM Glenn   NM  K3  2843
> W4BRP Bob FL  K3  4595
> KM5Q  Windy   NM  K3  764
> NU4C  PaulFL  K3  3993
> K2ASP PhilOR  K2  5204
> W8YMO Harry   OH  K3  166
> N1OXA James   ME  K3  4538
> W0FM  Terry   MO  K3  474
> KA0NCRArnie   NE  K3  185
> W8OV  DaveTX  K3  3139
> NS7P  PhilOR  K3  1826
>
> 73,
>
> Phil, NS7P
>
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-- 
73,
Dick KA1OZ
Middleborough, MA

Radio:  Elecraft K3/100(Kit) SN 859
Antenna:  Titan-DX
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (9-19-10)

[Phil and Christina]

Propagation seemed good this week, though the number of stations checking in
was down a bit.  The discussions were on the availability of the KPA500
(thanks to Lyle for being a good sport about it) and the need for the K3
buffer mod if using the P3.  Thanks to everyone who checked in.  Here is the
list of participants.

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

VE3QF   TonyON  K3  137
AD5SX   PaulNM  IC706MkIIG  (K3 had to go back to 
Elecraft)
WA9EBX  Larry   KY  K3  4309
W4WFB   Roy NC  K2  2225
W1ZIJohnMA  K3  4103
K4GCJ   Gerry   NC  K3  1597
KK7PLyleWA  K3  3036
W5LAD   Jim TX  K3  1068
W0CZKen ND  K3  457
W1VJMartMA  K3  427
AI4VZ   George  GA  K3  2412
W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
W6VYBob CA  K3  2765
KB3FBR  Joe PA  K2  6178
AC0NM   Glenn   NM  K3  2843
W4BRP   Bob FL  K3  4595
KM5QWindy   NM  K3  764
NU4CPaulFL  K3  3993
K2ASP   PhilOR  K2  5204
W8YMO   Harry   OH  K3  166
N1OXA   James   ME  K3  4538
W0FMTerry   MO  K3  474
KA0NCR  Arnie   NE  K3  185
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available

[George A. Thornton]

I loaded the beta updates with zero problems.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Buck
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 12:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available



Given a number of reports about trouble downloading the latest K3 and P3
firmware, I decided to report my success conditions.

K3#125, P3#159, P3 power switch setup to turn on automatically with the
K3 but can turn off P3 power after K3 power up.

P3 connected to computer running XP.  P3 connected to K3, also Steppir
SDA100 controller hanging on the K3 line as a read only device.

P3 utility 1.3.8.25,  K3 utility 1.3.9.3
P3 power is not supplied by the K3, but comes directly from a Rigrunner
power distribution box from the station 12 volt supply.

Turned off P3 power switch.  Ran K3 utility and downloaded the K3
update.
A snap after I found the ftp files.  Closed the utility file.

Then cycled power switch on the K3.

Then ran the P3 utility and downloaded the P3 update.

Cycled power after closing the utility.

All is well.

It is really worth it.

John KH7T



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure

[Gary Gregory]

Bill,

You nailed that one.

Manufacturers have no interest in giving the user a choice other than they
expect us to load their software in the belief that when the next new model
comes out we will all rush down and buy it.

I do the same procedure as you have suggested and could not agree more.

73's
Gary

On Mon, Sep 20, 2010 at 8:39 AM, Bill K9YEQ  wrote:

> Chen,
>
> When it comes to cameras... all bets are off, as personally, I think they
> are bloat-ware and very processor overload.  I have seen Canon, Kodak, Sony
> and Nikon programs which are so "user friendly" to make a great working PC
> turned into a sluggish piece of junk.  I usually stop the startup processes
> of all of them and show my customers how to download from their cameras and
> sort their own so they don't lose the libraries and other dedicated to
> manufacturer systems which can be a huge hassle.
>
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kok Chen
> Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 12:34 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure
>
> On Sep 19, 2010, at 9/199:47 AM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
>
> >  I find the process simple and it works well for upgrading any of the
> > K3 devices. The procedures for  firmware updating both P3 and K3
> > aren't fool proof.
>
> While better but still not 100% foolproof, the Canon cameras that I have
> can
> be updated by first copying the firmware file into the same memory card
> that
> holds the photos, and then commanding the camera through a menu to update
> firmware. It does take away most of the "scare factor" when updating the
> firmware.
>
> That being said, by now there are probably amateur rigs that update
> firmware
> through the ubiquitous USB memory stick.
>
> A memory stick could be a good way to save menus and configs of a rig, too.
> But you would need to add the cost of a USB connector and perhaps an
> additional $5 AVR microprocessor.  That could translate to a burdened $20
> on
> the end user, but it can save on support phone calls and companies can
> perhaps eat some of the margin :-).
>
> 73
> Chen, W7AY
>
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-- 
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
http://www.qsl.net/vk4fd/
K3 #679
For everything else there's Mastercard!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure

[Bill K9YEQ]

Chen,

When it comes to cameras... all bets are off, as personally, I think they
are bloat-ware and very processor overload.  I have seen Canon, Kodak, Sony
and Nikon programs which are so "user friendly" to make a great working PC
turned into a sluggish piece of junk.  I usually stop the startup processes
of all of them and show my customers how to download from their cameras and
sort their own so they don't lose the libraries and other dedicated to
manufacturer systems which can be a huge hassle. 

Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Kok Chen
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 12:34 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure

On Sep 19, 2010, at 9/199:47 AM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:

>  I find the process simple and it works well for upgrading any of the 
> K3 devices. The procedures for  firmware updating both P3 and K3 
> aren't fool proof.

While better but still not 100% foolproof, the Canon cameras that I have can
be updated by first copying the firmware file into the same memory card that
holds the photos, and then commanding the camera through a menu to update
firmware. It does take away most of the "scare factor" when updating the
firmware.

That being said, by now there are probably amateur rigs that update firmware
through the ubiquitous USB memory stick.

A memory stick could be a good way to save menus and configs of a rig, too.
But you would need to add the cost of a USB connector and perhaps an
additional $5 AVR microprocessor.  That could translate to a burdened $20 on
the end user, but it can save on support phone calls and companies can
perhaps eat some of the margin :-).

73
Chen, W7AY

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] This might save you some grief

[Wes Stewart]

I didn't touch the amplifier...this was the KANT3 board.

That said the pressure required to remove it and reseat it could have flexed 
something else on the main r-f board, so who knows?

Mine has been in the Elecraft hospital for another problem and had the KPA100 
replaced with a Rev C, so I think it has gold pins, but until I have to open it 
up again for another reason, I won't know for sure.

--- On Sun, 9/19/10, WILLIS COOKE  wrote:

Wes, I had a similar experience.  I unseated the plug at the rear of the 
amplifier and reseated it.  Apparently one or more of the contacts had 
corrosion.  I just reseated the plug in the socket and normal operation 
returned.  I have read posts on this reflector of K3s that required the 
connector to be replaced because the pins on the connector had corroded off.  I 
think the newer units have gold plated pins to solve this problem.  My K3 is 
number 1025.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 

  


  
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] This might save you some grief

[WILLIS COOKE]

Wes, I had a similar experience.  I unseated the plug at the rear of the 
amplifier and reseated it.  Apparently one or more of the contacts had 
corrosion.  I just reseated the plug in the socket and normal operation 
returned.  I have read posts on this reflector of K3s that required the 
connector to be replaced because the pins on the connector had corroded off.  I 
think the newer units have gold plated pins to solve this problem.  My K3 is 
number 1025.
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ 





From: Wes Stewart 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Sent: Sun, September 19, 2010 1:15:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] This might save you some grief

Yesterday afternoon 15-meters opened and I started to call a station only to 
find that I had very little transmitter power out.  Everything seemed to be set 
properly so I cycled the DC power and bingo I had proper output.  I chalked it 
up to cosmic rays (W8JI knows what I'm talking about) and went on the make the 
QSO. I tuned around a bit and found that 12-meters was open, found another 
station and started to call him and once again very little output.

I did briefly notice on the display an ERR message indicating a TX gain 
failure.  Going into Tune, I could only get about 40 W out while calling for 
100. This varied from band to band, with the lower bands actually being worse.  
So I decided to run the TX Gain calibration.  The first step on 160-meters 
failed at about 3.7 W.

Since I had the latest beta firmware installed, I decided to roll back a couple 
of versions.  No joy.  Time to take the lid off and look around.  I poked at 
all 
of the cables and the lead from the KANT3 board to the coax connector, which 
all 
seemed to be well-seated.

I contemplated removing the 100W PA, but logic said that it should be okay 
since 
it did make output more-or-less proportional to the apparent drive available.  
Time to run the TX Gain cal one more time before going further.  This time it 
failed at 2.4 W on 1.9 MHz.  Taking the lid off and poking around had made a 
difference.

I won't bore you with the rest of the two hours I spent investigating this and 
will cut to the chase.  Removing and replacing the KANT3 board fixed the 
problem.  Apparently, there was a problem with the interface connector between 
the KANT3 board and the main r-f board.

I had a similar problem with my old TR-7 years ago.  The digital display would 
get intermittent and required accessing the daughter board and moving it up and 
down on the interface pins to scrub off the oxidation.  This would last about 
three or four months until I had to do it again.

I hope this isn't going to be a recurring issue with the K3.








      
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available

[John Buck]

Given a number of reports about trouble downloading the latest K3 and P3 
firmware, I decided to report my success conditions.

K3#125, P3#159, P3 power switch setup to turn on automatically with the K3 but 
can turn off P3 power after K3 power up.

P3 connected to computer running XP.  P3 connected to K3, also Steppir SDA100 
controller hanging on the K3 line as a read only device.

P3 utility 1.3.8.25,  K3 utility 1.3.9.3
P3 power is not supplied by the K3, but comes directly from a Rigrunner power 
distribution box from the station 12 volt supply.

Turned off P3 power switch.  Ran K3 utility and downloaded the K3 update.
A snap after I found the ftp files.  Closed the utility file.

Then cycled power switch on the K3.

Then ran the P3 utility and downloaded the P3 update.

Cycled power after closing the utility.

All is well.

It is really worth it.

John KH7T



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Re: [Elecraft] P3: QSY knob mod (front panel)

[Dan Atchison]

Then  I have a one of a kind.  How lucky am I and who want's to buy it for $2K?
 

 


Dan -- N3ND

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ken Kopp 
To: bob.cunni...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Dan Atchison 

Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 2:31 pm
Subject: [Elecraft]  P3: QSY knob mod (front panel)



TAP=QSY isn't obscured on P3 #56, and the knob 
is the same as the RIT/XIT knob on the K3.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
   elecraftcov...@rfwave.net


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[Elecraft] P3: QSY knob mod (front panel)

[Ken Kopp]

TAP=QSY isn't obscured on P3 #56, and the knob 
is the same as the RIT/XIT knob on the K3.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
   elecraftcov...@rfwave.net


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Re: [Elecraft] P3: QSY knob mod (front panel)

[Dan Atchison]

 The knob on my P3 is the same as the RIT knob on the K3.  If you look straight 
on (eye leveal) at the P3 (mine), then parts of the A, P, =, and Q are masked 
by the knob skirts.  If I am looking from a position where the P3 is below eye 
level (parallax), just part of the Q is masked.  Very interesting that yours is 
not.  

 


Dan -- N3ND

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Bob Cunnings 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: Dan Atchison 
Sent: Sun, Sep 19, 2010 12:45 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: QSY knob mod (front panel)


Interesting. I have P3 #74 and #498, which both have the "Elecraft P3"
lettering below the display, but the "TAP=QSY" lettering is in the
clear. Perhaps #520 came with a larger knob, which now covers up part
of the lettering? The knobs on my units are the same size as the K3
RIT knob. Now that you mention it, the P3 knob in the marketing photo
is smaller than the RIT knob in the companion K3.

Bob NW8L

On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 7:19 AM, Dan Atchison  wrote:
> Nice idea, but on my front panel (#520), the silk screened  "TAP=QSY" is 
already partially covered by the oem knob.  Adding a larger knob (or cover) may 
hide it completely.  Regardless, I find the knob OK for my finger size, anyhow.
>
> Elecraft has changed the front panel on the P3 since it's introduction and 
marketing photos.  On #520, the display is higher in the cabinet and the 
"Elecraft P3" silk screening is below the TFT display.There was apparently 
a 
change in the display board itself as the mounting screws would have to be in 
different locations to achieve this.
>
> I thinking when these new front cabinet panels went into production, the silk 
screen for "Select, TAP=QSY" was lowered (accidentally?) and it is now 
partially 
covered by the knob.  It's just a visual oddity and my only complaint with this 
superb product.
>
>
> Dan -- N3ND
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Case Parts

[Ken Kaplan]

All the parts have been spoken for.
73
Ken WB2ART
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[Elecraft] [K3] This might save you some grief

[Wes Stewart]

Yesterday afternoon 15-meters opened and I started to call a station only to 
find that I had very little transmitter power out.  Everything seemed to be set 
properly so I cycled the DC power and bingo I had proper output.  I chalked it 
up to cosmic rays (W8JI knows what I'm talking about) and went on the make the 
QSO. I tuned around a bit and found that 12-meters was open, found another 
station and started to call him and once again very little output.

I did briefly notice on the display an ERR message indicating a TX gain 
failure.  Going into Tune, I could only get about 40 W out while calling for 
100. This varied from band to band, with the lower bands actually being worse.  
So I decided to run the TX Gain calibration.  The first step on 160-meters 
failed at about 3.7 W.

Since I had the latest beta firmware installed, I decided to roll back a couple 
of versions.  No joy.  Time to take the lid off and look around.  I poked at 
all of the cables and the lead from the KANT3 board to the coax connector, 
which all seemed to be well-seated.

I contemplated removing the 100W PA, but logic said that it should be okay 
since it did make output more-or-less proportional to the apparent drive 
available.  Time to run the TX Gain cal one more time before going further.  
This time it failed at 2.4 W on 1.9 MHz.  Taking the lid off and poking around 
had made a difference.

I won't bore you with the rest of the two hours I spent investigating this and 
will cut to the chase.  Removing and replacing the KANT3 board fixed the 
problem.  Apparently, there was a problem with the interface connector between 
the KANT3 board and the main r-f board.

I had a similar problem with my old TR-7 years ago.  The digital display would 
get intermittent and required accessing the daughter board and moving it up and 
down on the interface pins to scrub off the oxidation.  This would last about 
three or four months until I had to do it again.

I hope this isn't going to be a recurring issue with the K3.








  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure

[Kok Chen]

On Sep 19, 2010, at 9/199:47 AM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:

>  I find the process simple and it works well for upgrading any of  
> the K3 devices. The procedures for  firmware updating both P3 and K3  
> aren't fool proof.

While better but still not 100% foolproof, the Canon cameras that I  
have can be updated by first copying the firmware file into the same  
memory card that holds the photos, and then commanding the camera  
through a menu to update firmware. It does take away most of the  
"scare factor" when updating the firmware.

That being said, by now there are probably amateur rigs that update  
firmware through the ubiquitous USB memory stick.

A memory stick could be a good way to save menus and configs of a rig,  
too.  But you would need to add the cost of a USB connector and  
perhaps an additional $5 AVR microprocessor.  That could translate to  
a burdened $20 on the end user, but it can save on support phone calls  
and companies can perhaps eat some of the margin :-).

73
Chen, W7AY

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure

[Bill K9YEQ]

Let me add a note to the reflector about firmware updates so newcomers
aren't frightened off by the involved discussion on the reflector about this
topic. I find the process simple and it works well for upgrading any of the
K3 devices. The procedures for  firmware updating both P3 and K3 aren't fool
proof.  As those of us in the PC repair and building business know,
directions are important to follow. And be sure not to interrupt the state
of the update process by powering off the radio, computer or program before
it is complete if one doesn't want to mess it up.  

Bill 
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dick Dievendorff
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 1:31 AM
To: 'The Smiths'; invento...@gmail.com; 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure

This works, but it may be more complex than is required.

The P3 currently sends initialization commands to the K3 when the P3 starts
up, and it doesn't check before sending these commands that the K3 is acting
as a K3.  If the K3 is in its "boot loader" (showing MCU LD in the LCD) some
of the commands sent by the P3 tell the K3 to start receiving firmware.  In
that state we don't get responses from the radio except on firmware block
boundaries.

If you turn everything off (remove the power plug from the K3 and P3, and if
necessary, shut down the K3 Utility), then don't reinstall the P3 power
plug, then start the K3 and the K3 Utility, the program should find the
radio. There isn't a need to change the RS-232 cable, if the P3 stays off
there is a bypass relay within it for the RS-232 connection.

Some have reported that the COM port used by the K3 Utility is made unusable
when the P3 gets into this state.  I believe that may be dependent on the
USB to Serial Adapter device driver you have. A PC reboot may be necessary
to free the COM port.  The K3 Utility Closes the COM port handle during all
controlled termination scenarios except Task Manager termination.  Windows
process termination closes all open handles, but sometimes the device driver
doesn't complete Close.

If the K3 is in "MCU LD" state, the P3 must stay off from the time the K3
power is turned on until the K3 firmware load is complete.  It's not good
enough to turn the K3 on, have the P3 start up with it, and then turn the P3
off.  During that brief period, the P3 sends the commands that influence the
K3's boot loader.

Usually you can just load firmware by turning the P3 off and sending the
firmware.  But if anything goes wrong with the firmware load and you end up
in the K3 bootstrap loader (MCU LD on the front panel) at K3 startup, the P3
must stay off to recover.

I have my P3 jumpered to not start up with the K3.  It needs an explicit
Power On button press, and I avoid this situation.

Ultimately this will be resolved by a P3 firmware change to determine the
K3's state before sending it commands that could influence the boot loader.

The P3 owner's manual is being updated with the details of this procedure.

73 de Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of The Smiths
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:08 PM
To: invento...@gmail.com; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 :: firmware update failure


Steve , you went through the same exact thing that I did.  I had thought
that I missed a step, and then shut down too early or something... I guess
this is an issue with the beta software, UNLESS, you start with the P3 off..
This is KEY.
I did the power on button and the reset and NOTHING seemed to work..
 
I had the same issue with the polling not finding the rig.  What I ended up
having to do was 1 - Turned off the rig power supply, 2 - Closed the Port in
the K3 utility  under the "Ports" tab.  Next I Then went into the windows
"Control panel", selected "System", then into the "hardware" tab I selected
"Device Manager".  From there I  went into the "com ports" area, and I
opened the com port that I was using for the K3.  I checked on the speed,
changed it from the default 9600 to 115200 (or 34800 doesn't matter) and I
hit apply.  After that I hit okay. Even if you don't need to make a change,
change it just to restart the ports brains... 
I then moved the K3 serial cable over to the K3 (and out of the P3
completely)
 
Next  I turned the power supply back on for the K3, then I HELD the power
button down for 10 seconds (until the red light started blinking).  After
that I went back to the K3 Utility and I went to the "firmware" tab.  I
pushed the button that said "check versions now" then low and behold it
finaly read the port again on the rig.. I then hit the Download ALL button
and everything worked from there.
 
Give that a try and let me know if it doesn't work..I'm sure there's other
ways to skin this cat...
 

 
> Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 20:26:13 -0400
> From: invento...@gmail

Re: [Elecraft] P3: QSY knob mod (front panel)

[Bob Cunnings]

Interesting. I have P3 #74 and #498, which both have the "Elecraft P3"
lettering below the display, but the "TAP=QSY" lettering is in the
clear. Perhaps #520 came with a larger knob, which now covers up part
of the lettering? The knobs on my units are the same size as the K3
RIT knob. Now that you mention it, the P3 knob in the marketing photo
is smaller than the RIT knob in the companion K3.

Bob NW8L

On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 7:19 AM, Dan Atchison  wrote:
> Nice idea, but on my front panel (#520), the silk screened  "TAP=QSY" is 
> already partially covered by the oem knob.  Adding a larger knob (or cover) 
> may hide it completely.  Regardless, I find the knob OK for my finger size, 
> anyhow.
>
> Elecraft has changed the front panel on the P3 since it's introduction and 
> marketing photos.  On #520, the display is higher in the cabinet and the 
> "Elecraft P3" silk screening is below the TFT display.    There was 
> apparently a change in the display board itself as the mounting screws would 
> have to be in different locations to achieve this.
>
> I thinking when these new front cabinet panels went into production, the silk 
> screen for "Select, TAP=QSY" was lowered (accidentally?) and it is now 
> partially covered by the knob.  It's just a visual oddity and my only 
> complaint with this superb product.
>
>
> Dan -- N3ND
>
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[Elecraft] P3 and SDR-IQ

[Ignacy]

Did anybody switch from SDR-IQ to P3? Experiences?

I have SDR-IQ and I am quite happy except that it locks on reboot and
occasionally crashes Vista; the last is a deal breaker during contesting so
in that case I just set SDR-IQ for K3 IF frequency.

P3 is integrated well but does not have high resolution. Also I will keep
SDQ-IQ fro RFI hunting; it is handy as such with a laptop. So no gains from
sale. 

Ignacy



.


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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-and-SDR-IQ-tp5547907p5547907.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [Bulk] [K2] Multicore Solder

[Vic K2VCO]

Originally they recommended a low-residue solder with, I think, 3% silver. This 
does an 
excellent job and makes beautiful shiny connections! The downside is that it is 
somewhat 
harder to clean out a hole if you need to remove components -- for example, if 
you 
accidentally install a wrong one, or to make a modification. So they switched 
to 
recommending a tin-lead solder.

Personally, I built my K2 with the silver-bearing solder and I haven't been 
sorry. It's 
no. 709 so I've made quite a few mods! I mostly use solder wick to clean the 
holes, 
although I have a spring-loaded plunger tool which is sometimes helpful.

On 9/19/2010 7:28 AM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
> For what it's worth, I used a silver alloy when I built my K2 as that was
> being recommended at the time.  Apparently there has been a change in
> thinking away from silver.  I can't say I've had any negative effects with
> it, though.
> Tom
> WB2QDG
> K2 #1102
> - Original Message -
> From: "Giuseppe Sorrentino"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:19 AM
> Subject: [Bulk] [Elecraft] [K2] Multicore Solder
>
>
> Hy to all, i'm beginning my work on K2 6995 kit and i read all the notes
> about
> the solder to use. I have two types of Multicore solder but i'm note sure if
> one
> of this could be the right one. I want to be maniacally precise and sharp in
> working with my K2 kit. Tnx for help.
>
> http://i53.tinypic.com/2hygy87.jpg
>
> http://i56.tinypic.com/2l8c2dj.jpg
> IZ2NYY
> Giuseppe "Pippo" Sorrentino
> Milano ITALY

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] accidental operation of the K3

[Matt Zilmer]

Has anyone used TRX Manager on a K3 with the P3?  Are there any issues
with this combination, or have they been engineered out already?

The macro buttons (and assigned programmable command sequences) are
something I need - just haven't written a simple program for this yet.
Is there any logging functionality with TRX Manager, and can someone
describe its capability?  I'll look further on the web page for this
as well.

Thanks, van fair.

73,
matt W6NIA / NNN0UET
K3 #24, P3 #12

On Sun, 19 Sep 2010 10:53:59 -0400, you wrote:

>I run the K3 from TRX manager and rarely touch the K3 for anything other than 
>the tuning knobs.  The TRX manager Main panel for the K3 offers 31 macro 
>buttons and a very easy way to write and keep them in memory. This makes it 
>possible to write a sleep macro which turns off the vox, reduces the screen 
>brightness and saves power. The wake up macro button turns the vox back on, 
>wakes up the display and configures the radio to my normal way of way of 
>operating. 
>
>The owner of TRX manager owns a K3 and has written into his program almost 
>anything the K3 can do. A good example is that all the EQ adjustments can be 
>made and saved without using the k3 or the utility program.
>
>If you are using a K3 with a computer you might want to take a look at TRX 
>manager.
>
>I have no vested interest in TRX Manager
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[Elecraft] accidental operation of the K3

[van fair]

I run the K3 from TRX manager and rarely touch the K3 for anything other than 
the tuning knobs.  The TRX manager Main panel for the K3 offers 31 macro 
buttons and a very easy way to write and keep them in memory. This makes it 
possible to write a sleep macro which turns off the vox, reduces the screen 
brightness and saves power. The wake up macro button turns the vox back on, 
wakes up the display and configures the radio to my normal way of way of 
operating. 

The owner of TRX manager owns a K3 and has written into his program almost 
anything the K3 can do. A good example is that all the EQ adjustments can be 
made and saved without using the k3 or the utility program.

If you are using a K3 with a computer you might want to take a look at TRX 
manager.

I have no vested interest in TRX Manager
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[Elecraft] FS: K2 case parts

[Ken Kaplan]

Hi guys.
Cleaning out the shack (finally).
I have the following K2 case parts:
1 each rear panel/heatsink silk screened for the K2
1 each rear panel/heatsink (blank) from an EC2
1 each blank EC2 front panel
1 each blank EC2 top cover
1 each K2 top cover (with speaker cutout), but has a scratch on the top.
All others are new.
$25.00 for all, plus $5.50 USPS priority mail shipping.
Paypal or money order okay.
Contact off list please, at wb2...@cqmail.net.
73
Ken WB2ART
www.wb2art.com
www.unpcbs.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [Bulk] [K2] Multicore Solder

[Tom McCulloch]

For what it's worth, I used a silver alloy when I built my K2 as that was 
being recommended at the time.  Apparently there has been a change in 
thinking away from silver.  I can't say I've had any negative effects with 
it, though.
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 #1102
- Original Message - 
From: "Giuseppe Sorrentino" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 4:19 AM
Subject: [Bulk] [Elecraft] [K2] Multicore Solder


Hy to all, i'm beginning my work on K2 6995 kit and i read all the notes 
about
the solder to use. I have two types of Multicore solder but i'm note sure if 
one
of this could be the right one. I want to be maniacally precise and sharp in
working with my K2 kit. Tnx for help.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2hygy87.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/2l8c2dj.jpg
IZ2NYY
Giuseppe "Pippo" Sorrentino
Milano ITALY



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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available

[Ed Muns]

Ralph, K1ZZI, wrote:
> I got into the same situation you described here this 
> morning.  The K3 Utility would loop and wouldn't find the K3. 
>  The only way I could get around it was by disconnecting the 
> P3 com cable and plugging it directly into the K3.  Then the 
> Utility connected and I was able to force the firmware load.
> 
> The firmware load initially got hung up with the P3 being on. 
>  After turning off the P3 the K3 Utility still didn't find 
> the K3.  I plan to change my P3 power on option to NOT come 
> on with the K3.  I meant to choose that option initially 
> anyhow but never got back to it.  I think that will avoid 
> this snag next download. 

If you prefer a different P3 power-on option during normal operation, then
just disconnect the P3 power cable for K3 firmware upgrades.

Ed - W0YK

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[Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available

[Ralph K1ZZI]

Klaus,

I got into the same situation you described here this morning.  The K3 Utility 
would loop and wouldn't find the K3.  The only way I could get around it was by 
disconnecting the P3 com cable and plugging it directly into the K3.  Then the 
Utility connected and I was able to force the firmware load.

The firmware load initially got hung up with the P3 being on.  After turning 
off the P3 the K3 Utility still didn't find the K3.  I plan to change my P3 
power on option to NOT come on with the K3.  I meant to choose that option 
initially anyhow but never got back to it.  I think that will avoid this snag 
next download. 

Ralph K1ZZI 

Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:16:34 +0200
From: Koppendorfer Klaus 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K3 & P3 Beta Firmware Available

I tried to load newest fimware to K3 and P3

Within loading 4.12 (and P3 inline) the K3 util said unable to load? and K3 
hangs
Tried to do forcing firmware download as descripted in manual? tx-led blinking 
and  lcd ? mcu ldthe util software is polling K3 on multiple baudrates but 
coult not find K3
Tried to new reboot PC just with one usb connection (only to k3) same problem

Is there any other possibility to force K3 to connect to PC ??

73
Klaus
OE6KYG
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: QSY knob mod (front panel)

[Dan Atchison]

Nice idea, but on my front panel (#520), the silk screened  "TAP=QSY" is 
already partially covered by the oem knob.  Adding a larger knob (or cover) may 
hide it completely.  Regardless, I find the knob OK for my finger size, anyhow.

Elecraft has changed the front panel on the P3 since it's introduction and 
marketing photos.  On #520, the display is higher in the cabinet and the 
"Elecraft P3" silk screening is below the TFT display.There was apparently 
a change in the display board itself as the mounting screws would have to be in 
different locations to achieve this.

I thinking when these new front cabinet panels went into production, the silk 
screen for "Select, TAP=QSY" was lowered (accidentally?) and it is now 
partially covered by the knob.  It's just a visual oddity and my only complaint 
with this superb product.


Dan -- N3ND

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Gary Gregory 
To: Bob Cunnings 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 10:01 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: QSY knob mod


Hmmm, mind if I steal your idea?...:-)

Gary

On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 11:51 AM, Bob Cunnings wrote:

> I use the P3 with a fairly wide span to spot and pounce on signals in
> the CW bands. The P3 is near the edge of the table and I find myself
> most comfortable when placing the heel of my hand on the table edge
> and twirling the QSY knob with the index and middle fingers to move
> the cursor around the band. This was hard to do with the stock knob,
> it seemed a bit small and I needed a little more friction also. While
> rummaging around in a drawer I found a couple of those dipped vinyl
> protective caps used made to fit SO-239 connectors was inspired. One
> of these fits snugly over the P3 QSY knob. It fattens the knob
> considerably and offers a lot more friction. I can twirl away
> effortlessly now, and tapping is easy too. Here's a photo link:
>
> http://www.whitemesa.com/nw8l/images/p3-knob.jpg
>
> Bob NW8L
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-- 
Gary
VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
http://www.qsl.net/vk4fd/
K3 #679
For everything else there's Mastercard!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/KSB2: Re-insulating toroid wire..

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

For peace of mind, just use the tip of a small flat screwdriver to place a
small square of tape on the crystal case to prevent contact.  Though I doubt
"bumping" would cause contact.  Messing around inside the case, maybe, but
not bumping the rig.

73, Guy.

On Sun, Sep 19, 2010 at 7:41 AM,  wrote:

> Hi group,
>
> Wondering if anyone has thoughts on how one would go about re-insulating
> areas
> of bare toroid wire?
>
> This is why I'm asking:  I've finished building the KSB2 module.  The board
> holes for the leads of the small RFC1 and RFC2 are relatively widely spaced
> apart and the leads of my toroids are tinned right up to the toroid core. I
> installed them between the crystal cans and the resistor packs.  They
> fitted
> fine. I pulled the leads tight and soldered them in.  I checked for
> continuity
> between the crystal cans and the toroid leads and on one of the RFCs, sure
> enough, there was a short between the toroid windings and the can.  With a
> bright light and magnifying glass, I saw that because of the direction that
> the
> taught toroid lead had pulled and the relatively long stretch of that
> tinned
> lead above the board, it had made contact with the crystal case.
>
> To fix the problem, I simply adjusted the position of the lead (bent it
> laterally a bit). But now I'm wondering how much bumping around it'd take
> to
> re-create the short.  To save having to remove the RFC and redo it, is
> there
> anything I can paint on the above board exposed lead to re-insulate it?
>
> Or, now the short has been fixed, am I obsessing over nothing? Or, should I
> just
> bite the bullet, remove the RFC, re-wind it leaving some enamel on the lead
> and
> re-install it?
>
> Other than that, the KSB2, KDSP2 and KNB2 have all been very satisfying
> builds.
>  Just need the K2 to go with them! :)  Hopefully my missing parts will
> arrive
> this week :)
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> 73,
>
> John
> VK7JB
>
>
> 
> This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au
>
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[Elecraft] K2/KSB2: Re-insulating toroid wire..

[W2bpi1]

How about fingernail polish, coil dope, hot glue or epoxy.George/W2BPI
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Crashed

[Ken Chandler]

Hi guys

I have it Fixed, it was a polling issue, clicked start, settings, control 
panel, system, hardware, device manager, click on ports, I'm using com8 
Open com8 by clicking, port settings, re-set bit per second (I set it to 38400) 
press ok.
I opened elecraft utility, k3 polled correctly, k3 detected the new firmware, 
clicked on 'send new firmware to k3' loaded correctly.
P3 firmware loaded correctly also.


Ken..G0ORH 

CW4EVER

Sent from my iPhone

 


On 19 Sep 2010, at 12:25, Rick Prather  wrote:

> From the Owner's Manual:
> 
> Forcing a Firmware Download
> If you accidentally load an old or incompatible firmware version and find the 
> K3 unresponsive, do the following: (1) unplug the K3 from the power supply 
> and wait 5 seconds; (2) plug the power supply back in; (3) hold the K3’s
> switch in; after about 10 seconds, you’ll see the TX LED flash (you’ll also 
> see MCU LD on the LCD); (4) load the correct firmware version.
> 
> Worked for me..
> 
> GL,
> Rick
> K6LE
> 
> On 9/19/2010, at 4:20 , ken chandler wrote:
> 
>> Hi
>> 
>> Thought I would load up the latest beta firmware. Have had  no problems in
>> the past loading the beta.  However, after an on screen message turn p3 off
>> the k3 lock-up and have MCU LD on screen.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The k3 would not power down so I switched the supply  off!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Now I have the TX lamp flashing away and the radio trying to find a port
>> com8
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Any suggestion please!!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Ken..G0ORH
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[Elecraft] K2/KSB2: Re-insulating toroid wire..

[zendoc]

Hi group,

Wondering if anyone has thoughts on how one would go about re-insulating areas
of bare toroid wire?

This is why I'm asking:  I've finished building the KSB2 module.  The board
holes for the leads of the small RFC1 and RFC2 are relatively widely spaced
apart and the leads of my toroids are tinned right up to the toroid core. I
installed them between the crystal cans and the resistor packs.  They fitted
fine. I pulled the leads tight and soldered them in.  I checked for continuity
between the crystal cans and the toroid leads and on one of the RFCs, sure
enough, there was a short between the toroid windings and the can.  With a
bright light and magnifying glass, I saw that because of the direction that the
taught toroid lead had pulled and the relatively long stretch of that tinned
lead above the board, it had made contact with the crystal case.  

To fix the problem, I simply adjusted the position of the lead (bent it
laterally a bit). But now I'm wondering how much bumping around it'd take to
re-create the short.  To save having to remove the RFC and redo it, is there
anything I can paint on the above board exposed lead to re-insulate it?

Or, now the short has been fixed, am I obsessing over nothing? Or, should I just
bite the bullet, remove the RFC, re-wind it leaving some enamel on the lead and
re-install it?

Other than that, the KSB2, KDSP2 and KNB2 have all been very satisfying builds.
 Just need the K2 to go with them! :)  Hopefully my missing parts will arrive
this week :)


Thanks!  

73,

John
VK7JB



This email was sent from Netspace Webmail: http://www.netspace.net.au

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Crashed

[Rick Prather]

>From the Owner's Manual:

Forcing a Firmware Download
If you accidentally load an old or incompatible firmware version and find the 
K3 unresponsive, do the following: (1) unplug the K3 from the power supply and 
wait 5 seconds; (2) plug the power supply back in; (3) hold the K3’s   
switch in; after about 10 seconds, you’ll see the TX LED flash (you’ll also see 
MCU LD on the LCD); (4) load the correct firmware version.

Worked for me..

GL,
Rick
K6LE

On 9/19/2010, at 4:20 , ken chandler wrote:

> Hi
> 
> Thought I would load up the latest beta firmware. Have had  no problems in
> the past loading the beta.  However, after an on screen message turn p3 off
> the k3 lock-up and have MCU LD on screen.
> 
> 
> 
> The k3 would not power down so I switched the supply  off!
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have the TX lamp flashing away and the radio trying to find a port
> com8
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestion please!!
> 
> 
> 
> Ken..G0ORH
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[Elecraft] K3 Crashed

[ken chandler]

Hi

Thought I would load up the latest beta firmware. Have had  no problems in
the past loading the beta.  However, after an on screen message turn p3 off
the k3 lock-up and have MCU LD on screen.

 

The k3 would not power down so I switched the supply  off!

 

Now I have the TX lamp flashing away and the radio trying to find a port
com8

 

Any suggestion please!!

 

Ken..G0ORH

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