Re: [Elecraft] CM500 headphones

2011-11-02 Thread Iain
Same problem here in UK, unavailable.

Amazon US seem able to ship to UK and probably elsewhere though, just 
ordered one.


G4SGX
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[Elecraft] Bias Resistor for microphone

2011-11-02 Thread kruegerbenny
Hello,

a friend of mine gave me an old microphone from Philips (serial no. :
C944685 ; part no. : 3513 505 00692) which I want to use with my K2
transceiver. The friend said that it should be an electret microphone, so it
will need a bias voltage (he said 12V, but I found in the KSB2 manual that
some mic's work well with only 5V). It is also written that some mic's need
a bias resistor between AF and 5V. 
Is there someone who has a manual to the described mic or an idea how I can
find out how to connect the mic.

Thx for your help

77
Benny
DL8NWO http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n6954471/IMAG0168.jpg 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Choice of filters in KRX3

2011-11-02 Thread GW0ETF
Robby,

I'm almost a 100% cw contester with a single antenna and I find SO2V of
limited but worthwhile use when run rate is dropping off. I always use full
break-in so when listening to the 2nd rx in the headphones you only hear
signals between your sent characters. This chopping makes it impossible to
copy callsigns so you have to have pick this up during gaps in sending; you
can then drop the call into the VFO B window with the '/' key (N1MM) to see
if it's a dupe. If it's not then at a suitable juncture simply press the
'Pause' button to swap VFos and focus, and hit Enter (ESM!) to send your
call, work 'em and then 'Pause' to move back to your run frequency (assuming
someone hasn't jumped on it while you've been away!).

I normally don't use cluster assistance; if I did SO2V would really be neat
as you could simply hotkey VFO B to each spot and work them between running
Qs. This is how I understand the use of SO2V so if anyone has
diferent/better ideas I'd be interested to hear them. 

73,

Stewart, GW0ETF



Robby.VY2SS wrote:
 
 Stewart,
 
 I have never tried SO2V operating but I would be interested in hearing
 more about it since I seem to have the hardware for it.
 
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Strange Problem

2011-11-02 Thread GW0ETF
Don't forget the 'quality of PL259 plugs' issue that's has been mentioned on
here before. A while ago I nearly pulled my amp apart to check the input
relay to see if that was the cause of my intermittent 'Hi SWR' and no rx
signal problem. Problem was an intermittent mating of the PL259 centre pin
in the socket barrel; either the pin was slightly undersize or the barrel
had previously been expanded by a PL259 with too much solder on the pin.

73,

Stewart, GW0ETF


Rick Bates wrote:
 
 Good catch Don.  And it should be noted that not all PL-259 mate properly
 if
 the outer shaft of the SO-239 (or barrel connector) is too short.  It
 should
 be seated, tight and with no movement in any direction.  Though I don't
 use
 pliers; I just crank on it and check them periodically.
 
 Rick WA6NHC
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm
 
 Loose PL-259s can cause symptoms like that.  
 
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[Elecraft] SO2V (was: K3 - Choice of filters in KRX3)

2011-11-02 Thread Barry N1EU

GW0ETF wrote:
 
 I normally don't use cluster assistance; if I did SO2V would really be
 neat as you could simply hotkey VFO B to each spot and work them between
 running Qs. This is how I understand the use of SO2V so if anyone has
 diferent/better ideas I'd be interested to hear them. 
 

Stewart, you've essentially got it right.  The other powerful SO2V technique
when operating assisted that I use is to work the bandmap up from bottom of
the band in vfoA and down from the top of the band in vfoB, quickly
switching back and forth and dropping my call in as stations call qrz.  Very
high qso rates are obtainable if there are sufficient spots.

I've got Web pages with recordings on assisted ssb and cw SO2V:
http://n1eu.com/n1mm/so2v.htm
http://n1eu.com/n1mm/cwso2v.htm

73, Barry N1EU


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Re: [Elecraft] Bias Resistor for microphone

2011-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Benny,

I know nothing about that particular microphone, but the bias voltage 
and resistor value for an electret microphone element is not normally 
critical.  I would try a 5600 ohm resistor between the K2 front panel +5 
volt line and the AF pin.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2011 4:53 AM, kruegerbenny wrote:
 Hello,

 a friend of mine gave me an old microphone from Philips (serial no. :
 C944685 ; part no. : 3513 505 00692) which I want to use with my K2
 transceiver. The friend said that it should be an electret microphone, so it
 will need a bias voltage (he said 12V, but I found in the KSB2 manual that
 some mic's work well with only 5V). It is also written that some mic's need
 a bias resistor between AF and 5V.
 Is there someone who has a manual to the described mic or an idea how I can
 find out how to connect the mic.

 Thx for your help

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Re: [Elecraft] USB interface

2011-11-02 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
Any simple USB to serial converter will do the job ...  The only pitfall to 
avoid is to find a USB to serial converter based on an FTDI chip as the 
Prolific based converters sometimes have driver issues with software written 
in certain languages or compiled with certain Microsoft compilers using the 
Microsoft serial comm library.  73, ... Joe, W4TV

After having some problems with my old Prolific-based USB converters, I 
purchased some Startech ICUSB2321F FTDI USB/Serial converters on eBay. 
www.ebay.com/itm/250908534890?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

$20 each plus $4 shipping.  They work great.  I use Vista 32-bit Home 
Premium.  I just plugged in the Startech units, the drivers were 
automatically found, and everything was up and running in seconds.  I'm 
using these with my K3, KPA500, XG3, and MFJ-998.

Phil - AD5X 

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Re: [Elecraft] USB interface

2011-11-02 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Pity the won't ship the the UK ROSH compliance I guess.
73 de M0XD (K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???)
-- 
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein.



On 2 Nov 2011, at 11:12, Phil  Debbie Salas wrote:

 Any simple USB to serial converter will do the job ...  The only pitfall to 
 avoid is to find a USB to serial converter based on an FTDI chip as the 
 Prolific based converters sometimes have driver issues with software written 
 in certain languages or compiled with certain Microsoft compilers using the 
 Microsoft serial comm library.  73, ... Joe, W4TV
 
 After having some problems with my old Prolific-based USB converters, I 
 purchased some Startech ICUSB2321F FTDI USB/Serial converters on eBay. 
 www.ebay.com/itm/250908534890?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
 
 $20 each plus $4 shipping.  They work great.  I use Vista 32-bit Home 
 Premium.  I just plugged in the Startech units, the drivers were 
 automatically found, and everything was up and running in seconds.  I'm 
 using these with my K3, KPA500, XG3, and MFJ-998.
 

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Re: [Elecraft] USB interface

2011-11-02 Thread Jon K Hellan
On 11/02/2011 12:31 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
 Pity the won't ship the the UK ROSH compliance I guess.
 73 de M0XD (K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???)

Usually, it's just that US merchants find it too much hassle to deal 
with foreign customers.

Jon LA4RT
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Re: [Elecraft] USB interface

2011-11-02 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
Pity the won't ship the the UK ROSH compliance I guess.

Why do you want to ship an FTDI-based USB adapter from the USA? They are 
available from local vendors in every major country, and they're all 
functionally identical because they use the same FTDI chip.

Google for: ftdi usb adapter site:uk

FTDI is a relatively small company, still privately owned and still 
based here in Scotland, that has become a world leader by specializing 
in just one thing... but doing it better than anyone else.

(Does that sound familiar?)


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 band stacking suggestion

2011-11-02 Thread drewko
I agree with Don-- use some pattern-based system. To me this seems
much better than a scheme which relates the numerals printed on the
keys to the corresponding bands. A geometric pattern seems better.

I use vertical columns: the left hand column is 40m/80m/160m. The
middle column is 10m/15m/20m. The righthand column holds the WARC
bands. The 0 key holds 6-Meters.

It would be nice if we could also use the remaining two keys on the
keypad (SPOT and AFX) as frequency memories. As it is now they are 
wasted. I know there are only 10 quick memories; couldn't this be
expanded to twelve and put these wasted keys to use.

73,
Drew
AF2Z



On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:07:52 -0400, Don W3FPR wrote:

Barry,

I believe you just have to develop some kind of logical system so you 
remember - it only has to make sense to you.

I have mine set so 80, 40, and 30 m are on the top 3 buttons - 1, 2, and 3.
The next row is for 20, 15, and 10.
Followed by 17, 12, and 6 m on 7, 8, and 9
The 0 button is 160,

I do not have 60 meters assigned to one of the buttons.  However, I can 
get to 60 meters easily - I have normal memories 61 through 65 set up 
for 60 meter channel hopping, and since those are likely the last memory 
locations I have used, that is what comes up right after I tap MV - 
tapping MV again puts me on 60 meters with channel hopping enabled.

That makes sense to me - you can use my system or develop what makes 
sense to you.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] Bias Resistor for microphone

2011-11-02 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

If the microphone is a typical electret, the external resistor
should be set for approximately 1 mA.  If the voltage source is
3.3V (industry standard for computer/AV mics) the resistor is
typically 2.2K.  With most amateur equipment the bias voltage
is 5V or 8V and a compromise 5.6K resistor is used.  In those
cases that the bias is 12-13V, 10K is a better choice.

In cases where the microphone is not a true electret element but
uses a dynamic element with a multi-stage transistor preamplifier
(Kenwood desk mics and Icom SM-5, SM-6, SM-20) 1 mA may not be
enough current.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/2/2011 4:53 AM, kruegerbenny wrote:
 Hello,

 a friend of mine gave me an old microphone from Philips (serial no. :
 C944685 ; part no. : 3513 505 00692) which I want to use with my K2
 transceiver. The friend said that it should be an electret microphone, so it
 will need a bias voltage (he said 12V, but I found in the KSB2 manual that
 some mic's work well with only 5V). It is also written that some mic's need
 a bias resistor between AF and 5V.
 Is there someone who has a manual to the described mic or an idea how I can
 find out how to connect the mic.

 Thx for your help

 77
 Benny
 DL8NWO http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n6954471/IMAG0168.jpg

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 band stacking suggestion

2011-11-02 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
drewko wrote:
I agree with Don-- use some pattern-based system. To me this seems much 
better than a scheme which relates the numerals printed on the keys to 
the corresponding bands. A geometric pattern seems better.


If you have another rig close by that has clearly labeled band buttons, 
make the K3 the same.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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[Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread David Windisch
Hi, all concerned:

Operationally, all has been well with 2 K3s and P3s in the station over the
last several years.
Been thru  multiple successful firmware upgrades, yearly recals, and so on,
with no external adapters or port-sharing software being used, simply the K3
and P3 utilities, dummy loads, and XG2 for the usual housekeeping.

I've long ignored that one K3 has always communicated thru COM1 to its
computer and the other thru COM3 to its computer.

Afaik they ain't broke; anybody have an explanation, please?

Brgds,
Dave Windisch, N3HE




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[Elecraft] Laptop Serial Port Card for K3

2011-11-02 Thread edward mccann
From Edward McCann AG6CX:

I am about to set up K3 station and would prefer to provide serial port from 
newer portable PC (Sony Vaio VGN-FW550F with Windows 7 64 bit)to K3 rather than 
use USB to Serial adapter. Not being cheap here, but rather trying to provide 
native serial port interface to keep it simple.

Prices of new PCMCIA cards seem to run from $20 to $100 on Amazon and 
elsewhere. Has anyone had experience with this matter and can recommend a 
specific card that has worked for you without glitches?

Thanks.
AG6CX

***
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Re: [Elecraft] Laptop Serial Port Card for K3

2011-11-02 Thread Jim Miller
Keep in mind that what you think is a PCMCIA slot on that new laptop may
not actually be PCMCIA at all. It may be CardBus or something else. Make
sure to read your use manual to find out what is needed. The cards are not
interchangable.

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] USB interface

2011-11-02 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
Good point Ian
73 de M0XDF
-- 
Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored.
-Aldous Huxley, novelist (1894-1963)

On 2 Nov 2011, at 13:51, Ian White GM3SEK wrote:

 David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
 Pity the won't ship the the UK ROSH compliance I guess.
 
 Why do you want to ship an FTDI-based USB adapter from the USA? They are 
 available from local vendors in every major country, and they're all 
 functionally identical because they use the same FTDI chip.
 
 Google for: ftdi usb adapter site:uk
 
 FTDI is a relatively small company, still privately owned and still 
 based here in Scotland, that has become a world leader by specializing 
 in just one thing... but doing it better than anyone else.
 
 (Does that sound familiar?)
 
 
 -- 
 
 73 from Ian GM3SEK
 http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] Laptop Serial Port Card for K3

2011-11-02 Thread Jim Brown
On 11/2/2011 7:53 AM, edward mccann wrote:
 Prices of new PCMCIA cards seem to run from $20 to $100 on Amazon and 
 elsewhere. Has anyone had experience with this matter and can recommend a 
 specific card that has worked for you without glitches?

Back in 2004, I bought a 2-port PCMCIA card made by Quatech, which has 
since been on a lot of Field Days, CA QSO Party county expeditions, and 
even a DX trip. It contains two real hardware serial ports and a 
pluggable dongle.  I've since bought two more for additional laptops.  
They are not cheap, Quatech is a US company, based in OH, I think.  I've 
observed no RFI issues, and they work with signal returns connected to 
DB9 connector shells.  .

In recent years, I've heard good things about Edgeport products.  They 
were not cheap until they went bankrupt a year or two ago.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Silly question about DVK3

2011-11-02 Thread Julius Fazekas n2wn
Hi Olli,

Both of your methods work, thanks...

Still am unable to get the ESC key to stop a message, even after trying
different settings, but placing a - on a function key seems to do the
trick.

73,
Julius
n2wn 

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2#4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3/100 
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 - What am I observing?

2011-11-02 Thread Rose
Hi Phil,

You may be seeing hum or other noise on his carrier.

You'll likely see the same sort of display when observing
WWV's signal when they're transmitting their tone/s.

Tune around the bands a bit and I think you'll see the double
spikes on quite a number of signals, regardless of mode.

Ignore the Rose header ... I'm using her computer for this
reply.

73! Ken - K0PP
elecraftcov...@gmail.com


 Here's my question:  What are the two spikes that I see about 500 Hz to
 each side of 28.130, approximately 25-30 dB down from the center's peak
 level (-125 to -130 dB)?  These spikes are above my observed floor about
 20-25 dB.

 It's a beautiful thing; I simply am not sure what I'm seeing.  One thing I
 am sure of, when you all respond with the answer, I'll bop myself in the
 head for not thinking about it!
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[Elecraft] k3 Strange Problem

2011-11-02 Thread Joe Ford
Guy and Don made the right call. Thanks, I was off on a tangent and not the 
right one for sure.

I have another 88' foot long dipole which we use for our CW station at Field 
Day. So I strung it up in a temporary location and bypassed the other dipole as 
a test. No more HIGH SWR message. It tunes right to 1:1. So now I have to lower 
the problem dipole and give it a thorough checkout. If I don't see something 
right away I can jusdt string up the FD dipole to get going again. 


Thanks, Guy, Don and others for pushing me down the right road.

73,
Joe
k4nvj
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[Elecraft] FS: W2 REDUCED

2011-11-02 Thread Phil LaMarche
I have a like new W2 with the 200 and 2000 watt couplers/cables.  Also the
serial cable.

 

$210.00 Shipped and insured.

 

Phil W9DVM

 

Philip LaMarche

 

LaMarche Enterprises, Inc

 

 mailto:p...@lamarcheenterprises.com p...@lamarcheenterprises.com

 http://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/ www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com  

 

727-944-3226

727-937-8834 Fax

727-510-5038 Cell 

  http://www.w9dvm.com/ www.w9dvm.com

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Orion I for K3

2011-11-02 Thread Fred Atchley
Caveat Emptor .FWIW: I had an Orion, years back. It was a very good rig. But
it was announced that the manufacturer of its signal processor was changing
dies which could affect availability and future maintainability of the Orion
I. I made a decision then to upgrade to the OMNI VII, because of the OMNI
lineage. Boy was I disappointed with the pseudo roofing filter when that rig
was employed in the CQP (as compared to the Orion I.) So, in less than a
year I turned to the K3. The K3 was a massive improvement for detecting weak
signals and separating strong signals.

Another consideration is the upgrade path for Orion I vs. the K3. The P3 is
a game changer. I don't know how I lived without it. OTOH the spectrum
display on the Orion I was useless to me. Then there is the KPA500 which,
like the P3, integrates all its functions seamlessly with the K3. 

As a Ten Tec owner I tried the Ten Tec blog for a limited time. I quit
because of the elitist flaming.

I'll stick with Elecraft, thank you. 73, Fred

 

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[Elecraft] USB Adapters and RF

2011-11-02 Thread Lee Buller

I run legal limit on some contests.  I seem to burn up USB to Serial devices.  
I 
am grounded properly.  I am suspect of these things in high RF fields.  
But...what is a guy gonna do when RS232 Serial ports are totally discontinued.  
Turn down or turn off the amp.  Hmm!

Lee - K0WA


 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any 
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common 
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
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[Elecraft] K3 DVK vs N1MM difficulties

2011-11-02 Thread Ralph Parker
Hi Gang:
In the recent CQ WW SSB, I used N1MM 11.10.3 to key the KDVR3 via a
microHAM CW Keyer, using the N1MM macros provided by N6ML. It worked, but
with every second CQ (press of F1, or ENTER via ESM), N1MM popped up a
window complaining about a missing .WAV file, which had to be closed before
any further action was possible. The workaround was to close the window and
keep going - a royal PITA.

I have done this before, with a previous version of N1MM, and I don't
remember this problem. Perhaps I should ask for help on the N1MM reflector,
but I'm not a member (yet).

Any help/hints/suggestions greatfully received.

Ralph, VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] USB Adapters and RF

2011-11-02 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Lee Buller wrote:

I run legal limit on some contests.  I seem to burn up USB to Serial 
devices.  I am grounded properly.  I am suspect of these things in high 
RF fields. But...what is a guy gonna do when RS232 Serial ports are 
totally discontinued. Turn down or turn off the amp.  Hmm!


Look very carefully at that statement I am grounded properly; because 
the evidence suggests otherwise. More specifically, it suggests that the 
ground terminals for various parts of your shack are not correctly 
bonded together. Another very common source of RF in the shack is a bad 
shield connection inside a PL259.

A few minutes applying a clamp-on RF current meter to various connecting 
cables could tell you a great deal.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] USB Adapters and RF

2011-11-02 Thread Lee Buller

Very interesting

Maybe I should have said...I think I am grounded properly!  I will have to 
check this out.  


Lee
K0WA







From: Ian White GM3SEK gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, November 2, 2011 2:18:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] USB Adapters and RF

Lee Buller wrote:

I run legal limit on some contests.  I seem to burn up USB to Serial 
devices.  I am grounded properly.  I am suspect of these things in high 
RF fields. But...what is a guy gonna do when RS232 Serial ports are 
totally discontinued. Turn down or turn off the amp.  Hmm!


Look very carefully at that statement I am grounded properly; because 
the evidence suggests otherwise. More specifically, it suggests that the 
ground terminals for various parts of your shack are not correctly 
bonded together. Another very common source of RF in the shack is a bad 
shield connection inside a PL259.

A few minutes applying a clamp-on RF current meter to various connecting 
cables could tell you a great deal.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread Mike
I'm not sure what the question is. The com port number only matters to the 
computer, 
not the radio. The radio has no knowledge of com port numbers.

73, Mike NF4L

On 11/2/2011 10:49 AM, David Windisch wrote:
 Hi, all concerned:

 Operationally, all has been well with 2 K3s and P3s in the station over the
 last several years.
 Been thru  multiple successful firmware upgrades, yearly recals, and so on,
 with no external adapters or port-sharing software being used, simply the K3
 and P3 utilities, dummy loads, and XG2 for the usual housekeeping.

 I've long ignored that one K3 has always communicated thru COM1 to its
 computer and the other thru COM3 to its computer.

 Afaik they ain't broke; anybody have an explanation, please?

 Brgds,
 Dave Windisch, N3HE




 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-COM1-and-COM3-question-tp6955511p6955511.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Silly question about DVK3

2011-11-02 Thread iain macdonnell - N6ML
Unfortunately they changed N1MM Logger such that it no longer
generates an RX; command when Escape is pressed, even when PTT via
radio command is enabled. You can program one of the F-keys to send
the RX; command instead at least for now - hopefully we can come
up with a solution to make the Escape key work again, as that's the
most intuitive method, IMO...

~iain / N6ML


On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 4:49 PM, Julius Fazekas n2wn
phriend...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Hi Olli,

 Both of your methods work, thanks...

 Still am unable to get the ESC key to stop a message, even after trying
 different settings, but placing a - on a function key seems to do the
 trick.

 73,
 Julius
 n2wn

 -
 Julius Fazekas
 N2WN

 Tennessee Contest Group
 http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

 Tennessee QSO Party
 http://www.tnqp.org/

 Elecraft K2        #4455
 Elecraft K3/100 #366
 Elecraft K3/100
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Silly-question-about-DVK3-tp6948894p6956013.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] USB Adapters and RF

2011-11-02 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 I run legal limit on some contests. I seem to burn up USB to Serial
 devices. I am grounded properly. I am suspect of these things in high
 RF fields.

It is odd that I just answered this same question in a different form
on the N1MM Logger list ...

 *Any time* one feeds an unbalanced antenna with coax and does not have
 a current balun with a high choking impedance, the coax will act
 like a random length radial or half of the driven element.  When that
 radial is an odd multiple of 1/4 wave long, the end of the radial
 will be at a high RF voltage.  Old timers will recognize this at the
 hot mic (RF bites the lips!) scenario.  When the RF voltage is high
 enough, it can upset electronics ... a 5V P-P voltage at the USB port
 of a computer/peripheral can cancel the 5V (or 3.3V in some systems)
 USB power and shut down the port.  RF voltages higher than 5V P-P can
 result in *reverse bias* permanently damage some components.

Bottom line, be *absolutely sure* to use choking impedance common mode
chokes, properly installed, at the appropriate places in your antenna
system.  Proper points are at the antenna feed point and at the entry
window to the building (outboard of the point at which the cable
shields are grounded so the choke is working against a low impedance).

If you can't do that, only purchase interface products that include a
proper over voltage suppressor on the USB power line (to clamp any
voltage to 0/+5.5V).  Before anyone asks - I do not know which low
cost USB to serial converters include voltage suppressors.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/2/2011 2:34 PM, Lee Buller wrote:

 I run legal limit on some contests.  I seem to burn up USB to Serial devices. 
  I
 am grounded properly.  I am suspect of these things in high RF fields.
 But...what is a guy gonna do when RS232 Serial ports are totally discontinued.
 Turn down or turn off the amp.  Hmm!

 Lee - K0WA


   In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
 don't
 have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
 any
 Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
 Sense divine?

 Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
 -  John W. (Kansas)

 Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
 __
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Re: [Elecraft] USB Adapters and RF

2011-11-02 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

I see my cut/paste from the other reply left out some important
information.  The following is edited to add the missing references.

*Any time* one feeds an unbalanced antenna with coax and does not have
a current balun with a high choking impedance, the coax will act
like a random length radial or half of the driven element. When that
radial is an odd multiple of 1/4 wave long, the end of the radial
will be at a high RF voltage. Old timers will recognize this at the
hot mic (RF bites the lips!) scenario. When the RF voltage is high
enough, it can upset electronics ... a 5V P-P voltage at the USB port
of a computer/peripheral can cancel the 5V (or 3.3V in some systems)
USB power and shut down the port. RF voltages higher than 5V P-P can
result in *reverse bias* and permanently damage some components.

There are two good tutorials on common mode chokes on-line - one by
K9YC: http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf and one by W1HIS:
http://www.yccc.org/Articles/W1HIS/CommonModeChokesW1HIS2006Apr06.pdf
I strongly recommend studying both.

Bottom line, be *absolutely sure* to use high choking impedance common
mode chokes, properly installed, at the appropriate places in your
antenna system. Proper points are at the antenna feed point and at
the entry window to the building (outboard of the point at which the
cable shields are grounded so the choke is working against a low impedance).

If you can't do that, only purchase interface products that include a
proper over voltage suppressor on the USB power line (to clamp any
voltage to 0/+5.5V). Before anyone asks - I do not know which low
cost USB to serial converters include voltage suppressors.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/2/2011 3:59 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 I run legal limit on some contests. I seem to burn up USB to Serial
 devices. I am grounded properly. I am suspect of these things in high
 RF fields.

 It is odd that I just answered this same question in a different form
 on the N1MM Logger list ...

 *Any time* one feeds an unbalanced antenna with coax and does not have
 a current balun with a high choking impedance, the coax will act
 like a random length radial or half of the driven element.  When that
 radial is an odd multiple of 1/4 wave long, the end of the radial
 will be at a high RF voltage.  Old timers will recognize this at the
 hot mic (RF bites the lips!) scenario.  When the RF voltage is high
 enough, it can upset electronics ... a 5V P-P voltage at the USB port
 of a computer/peripheral can cancel the 5V (or 3.3V in some systems)
 USB power and shut down the port.  RF voltages higher than 5V P-P can
 result in *reverse bias* permanently damage some components.

 Bottom line, be *absolutely sure* to use choking impedance common mode
 chokes, properly installed, at the appropriate places in your antenna
 system.  Proper points are at the antenna feed point and at the entry
 window to the building (outboard of the point at which the cable
 shields are grounded so the choke is working against a low impedance).

 If you can't do that, only purchase interface products that include a
 proper over voltage suppressor on the USB power line (to clamp any
 voltage to 0/+5.5V).  Before anyone asks - I do not know which low
 cost USB to serial converters include voltage suppressors.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


 On 11/2/2011 2:34 PM, Lee Buller wrote:

 I run legal limit on some contests.  I seem to burn up USB to Serial 
 devices.  I
 am grounded properly.  I am suspect of these things in high RF fields.
 But...what is a guy gonna do when RS232 Serial ports are totally 
 discontinued.
 Turn down or turn off the amp.  Hmm!

 Lee - K0WA


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
 don't
 have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
 any
 Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
 Common
 Sense divine?

 Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my 
 mind.
 -  John W. (Kansas)

 Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
 __
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This 

Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread Jim Dunstan
At 07:49 AM 11/2/2011 -0700, you wrote:

I've long ignored that one K3 has always communicated thru COM1 to its
computer and the other thru COM3 to its computer.

Afaik they ain't broke; anybody have an explanation, please?

Brgds,
Dave Windisch, N3HE

Hi

No problem, and not unusual.  The computer OS assigns the COM number to 
devices,
in this case the Serial Ports, and assures they operate without conflict 
with any other device in/attached to the computer.

Generally the serial port is often but not always set as COM1.  If you 
attach a device to the serial port and it works right
away ... then they are both set to the same COM number.  If the COM numbers 
are not the same they will not communicate
and you will have to change the number either at the computer or the 
device/program.

Communications between computer and device using COM1 to COM1 is the same 
as COM3 to COM3.  Now if you swap
computers/radios in your shack you will also have to change the COM# on the 
radios (best place to make the change).

Jim, VE3CI



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Strange Problem

2011-11-02 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 9:24 PM, Joe Ford k4...@yahoo.com wrote:

... I'll take down the ant and inspect it.But it works fine on all the other
 bands. Tunes with no problems all other bands. The KAT100 tunes but the KAT3
 doesn't?

Tuning all bands using a single antenna is always dicey
somewhere.Success is NOT guaranteed, but fortunate.  You are often
operating at the fringe of a tuner's range on one band or another.
The KAT 100 and KAT3 are not the same tuners, have different coils,
different tradeoffs, and different firmware to drive it.  Though the
ranges are approximately the same, give the two units an impedance at
the far fringe, and one or the other may not be able tune it properly.

Change any of the coax lengths after the tuner, INCLUDING THOSE INSIDE
THE K3, by switching, exchange, or whatever, and what just barely got
tuned the last time by the same tuner may not now tune.

Though this may not be your problem at all, a friend of mine was
having troubles of this mysterious sort. Eventually he discovered that
he had not soldered either the braid OR the center conductor on a
PL259.  It worked for YEARS before it finally started getting
intermittent.

Another ham had a balun that was gradually going bad and overheating,
apparently shorting some turns and causing mysterious changes in SWR.
He discovered that because during a QRO contest it caught fire and
completely shorted out.  Actually his wife discovered it looking out
the window at the tower out in the field, and came and told him his
tower was on fire.

The way to validate and check out one of these compromise antennas, is
to run it when it is brand new and working spiffy.  SWEEP the MFJ
CONTINUOUSLY from the bottom of the lowest band to the top of the
highest band.  Note the actual resonances you find along the way.
Write down those frequencies, the R at those resonant frequencies, and
the 2:1 SWR points above and below all of those resonances. Entirely
possible that all of the resonances are outside the ham bands.  Keep
these figures as a reference.  When you have trouble, repeat the
measurements.  IF there is trouble in the antenna, those readings will
change.  If the coax gets waterlogged, the 2:1 SWR points will broaden
out significantly and the R values at resonance will likely change.
If something gets broken the resonances will all move on you.

If you have an AIM 4170 as your analyzer, just sweep it from 0.5 to 30
MHz and save the file.  You can then import it and have an onscreen
compare between the old and new readings.

73, Guy.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

Sorry to disagree, but there is no way to set the COM Port on either the 
K3 nor the P3.
Setting the baud rate - yes, but the computer (or the computer 
application software) determines which COM port is to be assigned to a 
particular connector or cable.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2011 4:30 PM, Jim Dunstan wrote:
 Generally the serial port is often but not always set as COM1. If you 
 attach a device to the serial port and it works right away ... then 
 they are both set to the same COM number. If the COM numbers are not 
 the same they will not communicate and you will have to change the 
 number either at the computer or the device/program. Communications 
 between computer and device using COM1 to COM1 is the same as COM3 to 
 COM3. Now if you swap computers/radios in your shack you will also 
 have to change the COM# on the radios (best place to make the change). 
 Jim, VE3CI 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread David Gilbert

That is simply not true.  The K3 has no idea what COM port on the 
computer it is talking to.  Please describe how you change the COM port 
designation on the K3.

Dave   AB7E


On 11/2/2011 1:30 PM, Jim Dunstan wrote:

Hi

No problem, and not unusual.  The computer OS assigns the COM number to
devices,
in this case the Serial Ports, and assures they operate without conflict
with any other device in/attached to the computer.

Generally the serial port is often but not always set as COM1.  If you
attach a device to the serial port and it works right
away ... then they are both set to the same COM number.  If the COM numbers
are not the same they will not communicate
and you will have to change the number either at the computer or the
device/program.

Communications between computer and device using COM1 to COM1 is the same
as COM3 to COM3.  Now if you swap
computers/radios in your shack you will also have to change the COM# on the
radios (best place to make the change).

Jim, VE3CI


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread David Windisch
Hi, all concerned:
A gent who shall remain anonymous provided an explanation directly.
The Windows DEVICE MANAGER can be used to assign port numbers up to 256 to
the physical hardware COM adapters.
Tks and brgds to all who replied.
Dave Windisch, N3HE


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread Greg
I suspect he means going into device manager and changing the COM port
designation for the port the radio is connected to.  That's the only thing
that makes sense to me at least.

73
Greg



On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 2:59 PM, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.comwrote:


 That is simply not true.  The K3 has no idea what COM port on the
 computer it is talking to.  Please describe how you change the COM port
 designation on the K3.

 Dave   AB7E


 On 11/2/2011 1:30 PM, Jim Dunstan wrote:

  Hi

 No problem, and not unusual.  The computer OS assigns the COM number to
 devices,
 in this case the Serial Ports, and assures they operate without conflict
 with any other device in/attached to the computer.

 Generally the serial port is often but not always set as COM1.  If you
 attach a device to the serial port and it works right
 away ... then they are both set to the same COM number.  If the COM numbers
 are not the same they will not communicate
 and you will have to change the number either at the computer or the
 device/program.

 Communications between computer and device using COM1 to COM1 is the same
 as COM3 to COM3.  Now if you swap
 computers/radios in your shack you will also have to change the COM# on the
 radios (best place to make the change).

 Jim, VE3CI


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread Jim Dunstan
At 05:38 PM 11/2/2011 -0400, you wrote:
Jim,

Sorry to disagree, but there is no way to set the COM Port on either the
K3 nor the P3.
Setting the baud rate - yes, but the computer (or the computer
application software) determines which COM port is to be assigned to a
particular connector or cable.

73,
Don W3FPR

I am sure you are correct.  I don't own a K3.  But the original post 
mentioned two K3 operating positions each
controlled by separate computers.  One computer uses Com1 on the RS232 port 
and the other uses Com3.

There was no question ... but a request for an explanation.

Perhaps you can provide the explanation.

Thanks

Jim, VE3CI


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

Let me try an explanation as simple as I can put it.

The COM port numbers are set at the computer end.  First the OS assigns 
port numbers to the physical COM ports that are present on that computer.

You connect a cable and a terminal device (the K3 or P3 or several of 
them) each to a physical port on that computer - you have to know which 
connector on the computer corresponds to COM1 through COM nnn - normally 
a computer with one true serial port will have COM1 on that connector - 
for those with multiple true serial ports, you have to know which number 
corresponds with each port - that information is normally silkscreened 
on the motherboard.  For add-on cards, consult the card instructions.
With USB adapters, you can usually find the relationship in Device 
Manager - the numbers are usually higher.  If you don't know which 
adapter is which, unplug it and see which port numbers go away, then 
plug it back in and see which numbers appear.

After you know which port numbers are assigned to which serial 
connector, then you can go to the software application and tell it to 
talk to a particular device over a particular COM port (the one you have 
cabled to your device).  Some applications will scan through the 
available ports to try to find what it thinks is a valid open port with 
the desired device connected (and powered on) at the other end of the 
cable.  The software application will seize the port and makes it busy 
to all other applications.  The operating system passes whatever flows 
on that port over to the application.

The terminal device does not know which computer port it is connected to 
- it sees data coming in over the TXD signal line and responds on the 
RXD signal line - the computer and application sorts out which device it 
is talking to.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2011 6:25 PM, Jim Dunstan wrote:
 At 05:38 PM 11/2/2011 -0400, you wrote:
 Jim,

 Sorry to disagree, but there is no way to set the COM Port on either the
 K3 nor the P3.
 Setting the baud rate - yes, but the computer (or the computer
 application software) determines which COM port is to be assigned to a
 particular connector or cable.

 73,
 Don W3FPR
 I am sure you are correct.  I don't own a K3.  But the original post
 mentioned two K3 operating positions each
 controlled by separate computers.  One computer uses Com1 on the RS232 port
 and the other uses Com3.

 There was no question ... but a request for an explanation.

 Perhaps you can provide the explanation.

 Thanks

 Jim, VE3CI


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: COM1 and COM3 question

2011-11-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Is, perhaps, someone being confused because they see that they must select
the com port associated with the radio in the program at the computer (just
as it is in the Elecraft Utility programs), they think that it is at the
radio that selection is being made - just as they enter frequency and other
data at the computer that changes things at the radio? 

Whew  - that was a sentence ...

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
At 05:38 PM 11/2/2011 -0400, you wrote:
Jim,

Sorry to disagree, but there is no way to set the COM Port on either the
K3 nor the P3.
Setting the baud rate - yes, but the computer (or the computer
application software) determines which COM port is to be assigned to a
particular connector or cable.

73,
Don W3FPR

I am sure you are correct.  I don't own a K3.  But the original post 
mentioned two K3 operating positions each
controlled by separate computers.  One computer uses Com1 on the RS232 port 
and the other uses Com3.

There was no question ... but a request for an explanation.

Perhaps you can provide the explanation.

Thanks

Jim, VE3CI


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[Elecraft] Elecraft FS XG2 Sig Gen

2011-11-02 Thread Gilbert Cross
 Sig Gen is mounted in an Altoids tin. Asking $50.00. I ship in CONUS. 
Please reply off list...

 Thank youGil   K8EAG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Strange Problem

2011-11-02 Thread Joe Ford
Guy,

Thanks for the tips. My coax jumpers are some I bought from a company I don't 
remember exactly which one. It was one that I saw recommended somewhere. 
Unfortunately the PL259s are crimped on but they seem to work okay. Just to be 
sure, when I was troubleshooting the problem I replaced the jumper with no 
change. I can't remember if I traded with the K2. I might have. I need to 
change the coax anyway because I need them to be a little longer. If I can find 
someone who sells good quality with soldered PL259s I'll probably order them, 
otherwise I'll just make my on.

I lowered the dipole, looked it over but didn't see anything except the ends a 
rusting a little where they are tied to the insulators. Unfortunately it 
doesn't hang free and clear. I have lots of trees. I tried to reroute it where 
it would be more in the clear. Then I put it back up and it performs the same. 
I guess the next step is to replace it with the other dipole that tested okay. 
When I did the test I just hung the dipole between 2 trees. I did not hang it 
where the problem dipole is so it was not a 100% valid test. I'll try switching 
the 2 and see what happens. At least the test confirmed the switch and balun 
are okay. 


Thanks for the suggestion about recording the swr across the antenna bandwidth 
when it is new. I can plot a little graph and save it for future use. Even for 
my beam which is not new it will be a good thing to have.


Joe
k4nvj




From: Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
To: Joe Ford k4...@yahoo.com
Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net; w3...@embarqmail.com 
w3...@embarqmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: K3 Strange Problem

On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 9:24 PM, Joe Ford k4...@yahoo.com wrote:

... I'll take down the ant and inspect it.But it works fine on all the other
 bands. Tunes with no problems all other bands. The KAT100 tunes but the KAT3
 doesn't?

Tuning all bands using a single antenna is always dicey
somewhere.Success is NOT guaranteed, but fortunate.  You are often
operating at the fringe of a tuner's range on one band or another.
The KAT 100 and KAT3 are not the same tuners, have different coils,
different tradeoffs, and different firmware to drive it.  Though the
ranges are approximately the same, give the two units an impedance at
the far fringe, and one or the other may not be able tune it properly.

Change any of the coax lengths after the tuner, INCLUDING THOSE INSIDE
THE K3, by switching, exchange, or whatever, and what just barely got
tuned the last time by the same tuner may not now tune.

Though this may not be your problem at all, a friend of mine was
having troubles of this mysterious sort. Eventually he discovered that
he had not soldered either the braid OR the center conductor on a
PL259.  It worked for YEARS before it finally started getting
intermittent.

Another ham had a balun that was gradually going bad and overheating,
apparently shorting some turns and causing mysterious changes in SWR.
He discovered that because during a QRO contest it caught fire and
completely shorted out.  Actually his wife discovered it looking out
the window at the tower out in the field, and came and told him his
tower was on fire.

The way to validate and check out one of these compromise antennas, is
to run it when it is brand new and working spiffy.  SWEEP the MFJ
CONTINUOUSLY from the bottom of the lowest band to the top of the
highest band.  Note the actual resonances you find along the way.
Write down those frequencies, the R at those resonant frequencies, and
the 2:1 SWR points above and below all of those resonances. Entirely
possible that all of the resonances are outside the ham bands.  Keep
these figures as a reference.  When you have trouble, repeat the
measurements.  IF there is trouble in the antenna, those readings will
change.  If the coax gets waterlogged, the 2:1 SWR points will broaden
out significantly and the R values at resonance will likely change.
If something gets broken the resonances will all move on you.

If you have an AIM 4170 as your analyzer, just sweep it from 0.5 to 30
MHz and save the file.  You can then import it and have an onscreen
compare between the old and new readings.

73, Guy.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Strange Problem

2011-11-02 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
There is nothing wrong with crimped connectors if done properly.  Is 
this an antenna that was working fine and then stopped on one band with 
absolutely no changed in the shack or coax etc? What band is out of 
whack...I apologize for missing most of this thread.

Mike W0MU

J6M CQ WW DX CW Contest 2011
J6/W0MU November 21 - December 1 2011
W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net


On 11/2/2011 6:55 PM, Joe Ford wrote:
 Guy,

 Thanks for the tips. My coax jumpers are some I bought from a company I don't 
 remember exactly which one. It was one that I saw recommended somewhere. 
 Unfortunately the PL259s are crimped on but they seem to work okay. Just to 
 be sure, when I was troubleshooting the problem I replaced the jumper with no 
 change. I can't remember if I traded with the K2. I might have. I need to 
 change the coax anyway because I need them to be a little longer. If I can 
 find someone who sells good quality with soldered PL259s I'll probably order 
 them, otherwise I'll just make my on.

 I lowered the dipole, looked it over but didn't see anything except the ends 
 a rusting a little where they are tied to the insulators. Unfortunately it 
 doesn't hang free and clear. I have lots of trees. I tried to reroute it 
 where it would be more in the clear. Then I put it back up and it performs 
 the same. I guess the next step is to replace it with the other dipole that 
 tested okay. When I did the test I just hung the dipole between 2 trees. I 
 did not hang it where the problem dipole is so it was not a 100% valid test. 
 I'll try switching the 2 and see what happens. At least the test confirmed 
 the switch and balun are okay.


 Thanks for the suggestion about recording the swr across the antenna 
 bandwidth when it is new. I can plot a little graph and save it for future 
 use. Even for my beam which is not new it will be a good thing to have.


 Joe
 k4nvj



 
 From: Guy Olinger K2AVolin...@bellsouth.net
 To: Joe Fordk4...@yahoo.com
 Cc: Elecraftelecraft@mailman.qth.net; 
 w3...@embarqmail.comw3...@embarqmail.com
 Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 3:49 PM
 Subject: Re: K3 Strange Problem

 On Tue, Nov 1, 2011 at 9:24 PM, Joe Fordk4...@yahoo.com  wrote:

 ... I'll take down the ant and inspect it.But it works fine on all the other
 bands. Tunes with no problems all other bands. The KAT100 tunes but the KAT3
 doesn't?
 Tuning all bands using a single antenna is always dicey
 somewhere.Success is NOT guaranteed, but fortunate.  You are often
 operating at the fringe of a tuner's range on one band or another.
 The KAT 100 and KAT3 are not the same tuners, have different coils,
 different tradeoffs, and different firmware to drive it.  Though the
 ranges are approximately the same, give the two units an impedance at
 the far fringe, and one or the other may not be able tune it properly.

 Change any of the coax lengths after the tuner, INCLUDING THOSE INSIDE
 THE K3, by switching, exchange, or whatever, and what just barely got
 tuned the last time by the same tuner may not now tune.

 Though this may not be your problem at all, a friend of mine was
 having troubles of this mysterious sort. Eventually he discovered that
 he had not soldered either the braid OR the center conductor on a
 PL259.  It worked for YEARS before it finally started getting
 intermittent.

 Another ham had a balun that was gradually going bad and overheating,
 apparently shorting some turns and causing mysterious changes in SWR.
 He discovered that because during a QRO contest it caught fire and
 completely shorted out.  Actually his wife discovered it looking out
 the window at the tower out in the field, and came and told him his
 tower was on fire.

 The way to validate and check out one of these compromise antennas, is
 to run it when it is brand new and working spiffy.  SWEEP the MFJ
 CONTINUOUSLY from the bottom of the lowest band to the top of the
 highest band.  Note the actual resonances you find along the way.
 Write down those frequencies, the R at those resonant frequencies, and
 the 2:1 SWR points above and below all of those resonances. Entirely
 possible that all of the resonances are outside the ham bands.  Keep
 these figures as a reference.  When you have trouble, repeat the
 measurements.  IF there is trouble in the antenna, those readings will
 change.  If the coax gets waterlogged, the 2:1 SWR points will broaden
 out significantly and the R values at resonance will likely change.
 If something gets broken the resonances will all move on you.

 If you have an AIM 4170 as your analyzer, just sweep it from 0.5 to 30
 MHz and save the file.  You can then import it and have an onscreen
 compare between the old and new readings.

 73, Guy.
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[Elecraft] K3 and MT63: XMIT Non-Copy

2011-11-02 Thread Dan Sherwood
I am trying to get my K3 to properly transmit in the MT63 digital mode, (1K,
max interleave), on a USAF MARS net.  Frequency just above 4 MHZ.  The KBPF3
module is installed.  I was running MIXW2.2, using the same installation and
settings that used to run perfectly on my TS-940S.  Our net is standardized
so everyone runs USB with the MT63 1K channel centered exactly 1 KHZ above
dial frequency.  I use the line input/output on the K3.  In USB mode I set
computer sound card output in s/w so that with power out set to 100W, and
line-in level at 10, the rig produces 50W and absolutely no ALC.
Compression was backed down to zero.  Using TX TEST and headphones, the
transmit audio sounds clean and distortion free.  Transmit EQ settings are
factory default.

Comments from net members are the audio sounds clean, and well centered on
frequency, (+ 3HZ within tolerance).  With live transmit, monitoring the
signal has no evidence of distortion.  The problem is the print is
double-spaced, with long strings of blanks, and all characters are lower
case.  Also much garble not evident on the TS-940S.  I realize the guys
recommend using DATA mode, but this net mixed voice and data ­ kind of tough
to be switching back and forth.

My copy on receive is as good as ever, just transmit.  I¹m thinking there¹s
some kind of DSP issue going on here, even though compression is at 0.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Dan Sherwood
AFA9LV / WA6PZK

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[Elecraft] Remote control of a K3?

2011-11-02 Thread tomb18
Hi,
Has anyone set up their K3 to be used remotely with HRD?  Does it work well
with a laptops speakers and mike?
What type of cables do I need for the connection of the sound card (I
presume it is mono in)?  Or is it stereo cables?

Thanks for any help1


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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and MT63: XMIT Non-Copy

2011-11-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dan,

I think your statement about ALC=0 is the key..  With the K3, increase 
the audio drive until ALC= 4 bars (with the 5th bar flickering) for 
normal audio drive.  With that done, the K3 will propery transmit at the 
level set on the Power knob.  The onset of ALC in the K3 is at the the 
5th bar on the ALC meter - so you did not have sufficient audio drive.

It should make no difference between DATA A and SSB mode - except that 
in DATA A mode, the Compression is automatically set to zero.  Since you 
said you had compression set to zero, SSB mode should work just fine.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2011 10:26 PM, Dan Sherwood wrote:
 I am trying to get my K3 to properly transmit in the MT63 digital mode, (1K,
 max interleave), on a USAF MARS net.  Frequency just above 4 MHZ.  The KBPF3
 module is installed.  I was running MIXW2.2, using the same installation and
 settings that used to run perfectly on my TS-940S.  Our net is standardized
 so everyone runs USB with the MT63 1K channel centered exactly 1 KHZ above
 dial frequency.  I use the line input/output on the K3.  In USB mode I set
 computer sound card output in s/w so that with power out set to 100W, and
 line-in level at 10, the rig produces 50W and absolutely no ALC.
 Compression was backed down to zero.  Using TX TEST and headphones, the
 transmit audio sounds clean and distortion free.  Transmit EQ settings are
 factory default.

 Comments from net members are the audio sounds clean, and well centered on
 frequency, (+ 3HZ within tolerance).  With live transmit, monitoring the
 signal has no evidence of distortion.  The problem is the print is
 double-spaced, with long strings of blanks, and all characters are lower
 case.  Also much garble not evident on the TS-940S.  I realize the guys
 recommend using DATA mode, but this net mixed voice and data ­ kind of tough
 to be switching back and forth.

 My copy on receive is as good as ever, just transmit.  I¹m thinking there¹s
 some kind of DSP issue going on here, even though compression is at 0.

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