date:20111126

 An example of how the price of a tuner can grow astronomically with
 power level.
 At what point does it make more sense to spend the same $$ for antennas
 which don't require a tuner?

For some of us where only one HF antenna is feasible, it may make sense to 
put all the money in the tuner and *not* the antenna.  For example, I've 
gotten away with an 80m dipole at 60-ft in my gated community, only due to 
the natural antenna supports: pine trees.  For me, the optimal solution for 
80m-10m coverage, consists of a remote-controlled, symmetrical tuner built 
in a WX-proof enclosure and located at the base of an open feeder line. 
This offers me minimum system loss, minimum RFI leakage to my transmission 
line, and all band coverage.  Sure, I have no control over maximum lobes and 
minimum nulls at higher frequencies, but given the QTH constrains, it made 
sense to put all the money into a truly balanced tuner and nearly zero cost 
in the antenna.  Through 4Nec2 modeling and TLD, my antenna system losses 
are very low and in all cases, exceeds the performance of resonant mono-band 
dipoles fed with LMR-400.  My 600-ohm line length is optimized for all bands 
using an N2PK VNA.

The new RF Concepts tuner would not work well for me.  It's an unbalanced 
C-L-C design with a CM choke input, similar in design with several Palstar 
tuners, only with much more rugged components than what Palstar provides. 
W9CF, W7EL, and W8JI have analyzed a current choke placed at the input to a 
C-L-C tuner and have concluded that placement at the input is not as 
effective for maintaining line balance as a balun placed at the tuner's 
output.  The exception being if the CM choke is placed at the input of a 
symmetrical, balanced tuner (e.g., AG6K type).  My tuner is of this type and 
can be seen on my QRZ.com page.

Read through the eHam reviews and see just how gullible we are when it comes 
to tuner evaluation.  Nearly all accolades are based on: (1) the ability of 
the tuner to achieve an input VSWR of 1:1; (2) pretty layout; and (3) 
component size.  None of these factors tell us about the tuner's efficiency. 
When a tuner needs it own cooling and ventilation system to function, that 
should throw up red warning flags.

The new RF Concepts tuner has switched, 8pF to 800 pF output C.  Although 
better than most commercial tuners, it would have been even better to at 
least double that amount so long as minimum C is maintained through high 
isolation switched C.  The real *big* unknown with the new tuner is coil Q 
over its entire range.  I would like to see a Q plot of the coil mounted in 
the metal enclosure.  That's a critical piece of evidence in order to 
evaluate the tuner's efficiency, especially with low-Z line terminations. 
With both input and out C being vacuum types, I would expect high-Q for the 
C components.  I'm not too concerned about a tuner's ability to tune and 
match low-Z loads.  For base station operation, there are few combinations 
of full size wire antennas that place a low-Z at the line input, no matter 
the line length.  If I'm dealing with low-Z transmission line inputs, then 
its an antenna I probably don't want in the first place. For portable and 
mobile installations,  that a wholly different matter.

Finally, the new RF Concepts tuner has a slick Smith chart display on the 
front panel.  Only, the charting shows the Z at the input of the tuner which 
is of very limited value.  Since the input is always tuned and matched for 
50+j0, even the simple Monimatch circuit is sufficient for that purpose. 
So, it's nice eye candy but I see nearly no value in the display.

Paul, W9AC



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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem





Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was getting 
some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it while I had 
it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it in high power, 
even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked all the parts 
values twice and did the calibration again including the C6 adjust, the r26 and 
27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they weren't shorted or 
anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The voltages seem to be 
fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd is as soon as I hit the 
key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the keying.  A dot gives a short 
fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan activation.  Eventually it comes on 
and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean 
it comes on almost instantly.  I have checked the archives and am starting to 
suspect the finals.  I put on new pads on the transisto
 rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works fine at 
10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able to find it.  
Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go through that work 
again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF 
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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV



 The new RF Concepts tuner would not work well for me. It's an
 unbalanced C-L-C design with a CM choke input, similar in design
 with several Palstar tuners, only with much more rugged components
 than what Palstar provides. W9CF, W7EL, and W8JI have analyzed a
 current choke placed at the input to a C-L-C tuner and have concluded
 that placement at the input is not as effective for maintaining line
 balance as a balun placed at the tuner's output.

The common mode choke in the Alpha tuner will be completely ineffective
with any of the coaxial fed antenna outputs in any case!  Since it is
*inside* a metal box and the input as well as output connectors are all
connected to the case, any common mode current will simply bypass the
the choke on the case!

The *only way* to make a common mode choke effective with an unbalanced
tuner is to connect the case of the tuner to a low impedance ground
and place the choke in the feedline between the rig/amplifier and the
tuner - external to the tuner.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/26/2011 11:04 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:
 An example of how the price of a tuner can grow astronomically with
 power level.
 At what point does it make more sense to spend the same $$ for antennas
 which don't require a tuner?

 For some of us where only one HF antenna is feasible, it may make sense to
 put all the money in the tuner and *not* the antenna.  For example, I've
 gotten away with an 80m dipole at 60-ft in my gated community, only due to
 the natural antenna supports: pine trees.  For me, the optimal solution for
 80m-10m coverage, consists of a remote-controlled, symmetrical tuner built
 in a WX-proof enclosure and located at the base of an open feeder line.
 This offers me minimum system loss, minimum RFI leakage to my transmission
 line, and all band coverage.  Sure, I have no control over maximum lobes and
 minimum nulls at higher frequencies, but given the QTH constrains, it made
 sense to put all the money into a truly balanced tuner and nearly zero cost
 in the antenna.  Through 4Nec2 modeling and TLD, my antenna system losses
 are very low and in all cases, exceeds the performance of resonant mono-band
 dipoles fed with LMR-400.  My 600-ohm line length is optimized for all bands
 using an N2PK VNA.

 The new RF Concepts tuner would not work well for me.  It's an unbalanced
 C-L-C design with a CM choke input, similar in design with several Palstar
 tuners, only with much more rugged components than what Palstar provides.
 W9CF, W7EL, and W8JI have analyzed a current choke placed at the input to a
 C-L-C tuner and have concluded that placement at the input is not as
 effective for maintaining line balance as a balun placed at the tuner's
 output.  The exception being if the CM choke is placed at the input of a
 symmetrical, balanced tuner (e.g., AG6K type).  My tuner is of this type and
 can be seen on my QRZ.com page.

 Read through the eHam reviews and see just how gullible we are when it comes
 to tuner evaluation.  Nearly all accolades are based on: (1) the ability of
 the tuner to achieve an input VSWR of 1:1; (2) pretty layout; and (3)
 component size.  None of these factors tell us about the tuner's efficiency.
 When a tuner needs it own cooling and ventilation system to function, that
 should throw up red warning flags.

 The new RF Concepts tuner has switched, 8pF to 800 pF output C.  Although
 better than most commercial tuners, it would have been even better to at
 least double that amount so long as minimum C is maintained through high
 isolation switched C.  The real *big* unknown with the new tuner is coil Q
 over its entire range.  I would like to see a Q plot of the coil mounted in
 the metal enclosure.  That's a critical piece of evidence in order to
 evaluate the tuner's efficiency, especially with low-Z line terminations.
 With both input and out C being vacuum types, I would expect high-Q for the
 C components.  I'm not too concerned about a tuner's ability to tune and
 match low-Z loads.  For base station operation, there are few combinations
 of full size wire antennas that place a low-Z at the line input, no matter
 the line length.  If I'm dealing with low-Z transmission line inputs, then
 its an antenna I probably don't want in the first place. For portable and
 mobile installations,  that a wholly different matter.

 Finally, the new RF Concepts tuner has a slick Smith chart display on the
 front panel.  Only, the charting shows the Z at the input of the tuner which
 is of very limited value.  Since the input is always tuned and matched for
 50+j0, even the simple Monimatch circuit is sufficient for that purpose.
 So, it's nice eye candy but I see nearly no value in the display.

 Paul, W9AC



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[Elecraft] P3 Schematic

2011-11-26 Thread Ken Roberson

Hello All,

Looked through all my stuff and on Elecraft web site
and can not find the P3 schematic or spec.
Would like to know how much signal for input.

A little help please
73 Ken K5DNL
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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

Looking at the RF Concepts simplified schematic diagram, the directional 
coupler appears to remain active when the tuner is in bypass.  So, as long 
as the Smith chart feature works in bypass, it would definitely provide some 
useful information about the line input Z within the limits of the 
directional coupler accuracy.

Paul, W9AC

- Original Message - 
From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner


 An example of how the price of a tuner can grow astronomically with
 power level.
 At what point does it make more sense to spend the same $$ for antennas
 which don't require a tuner?

 For some of us where only one HF antenna is feasible, it may make sense to
 put all the money in the tuner and *not* the antenna.  For example, I've
 gotten away with an 80m dipole at 60-ft in my gated community, only due to
 the natural antenna supports: pine trees.  For me, the optimal solution 
 for
 80m-10m coverage, consists of a remote-controlled, symmetrical tuner built
 in a WX-proof enclosure and located at the base of an open feeder line.
 This offers me minimum system loss, minimum RFI leakage to my transmission
 line, and all band coverage.  Sure, I have no control over maximum lobes 
 and
 minimum nulls at higher frequencies, but given the QTH constrains, it made
 sense to put all the money into a truly balanced tuner and nearly zero 
 cost
 in the antenna.  Through 4Nec2 modeling and TLD, my antenna system losses
 are very low and in all cases, exceeds the performance of resonant 
 mono-band
 dipoles fed with LMR-400.  My 600-ohm line length is optimized for all 
 bands
 using an N2PK VNA.

 The new RF Concepts tuner would not work well for me.  It's an unbalanced
 C-L-C design with a CM choke input, similar in design with several Palstar
 tuners, only with much more rugged components than what Palstar provides.
 W9CF, W7EL, and W8JI have analyzed a current choke placed at the input to 
 a
 C-L-C tuner and have concluded that placement at the input is not as
 effective for maintaining line balance as a balun placed at the tuner's
 output.  The exception being if the CM choke is placed at the input of a
 symmetrical, balanced tuner (e.g., AG6K type).  My tuner is of this type 
 and
 can be seen on my QRZ.com page.

 Read through the eHam reviews and see just how gullible we are when it 
 comes
 to tuner evaluation.  Nearly all accolades are based on: (1) the ability 
 of
 the tuner to achieve an input VSWR of 1:1; (2) pretty layout; and (3)
 component size.  None of these factors tell us about the tuner's 
 efficiency.
 When a tuner needs it own cooling and ventilation system to function, that
 should throw up red warning flags.

 The new RF Concepts tuner has switched, 8pF to 800 pF output C.  Although
 better than most commercial tuners, it would have been even better to at
 least double that amount so long as minimum C is maintained through high
 isolation switched C.  The real *big* unknown with the new tuner is coil Q
 over its entire range.  I would like to see a Q plot of the coil mounted 
 in
 the metal enclosure.  That's a critical piece of evidence in order to
 evaluate the tuner's efficiency, especially with low-Z line terminations.
 With both input and out C being vacuum types, I would expect high-Q for 
 the
 C components.  I'm not too concerned about a tuner's ability to tune and
 match low-Z loads.  For base station operation, there are few combinations
 of full size wire antennas that place a low-Z at the line input, no matter
 the line length.  If I'm dealing with low-Z transmission line inputs, then
 its an antenna I probably don't want in the first place. For portable and
 mobile installations,  that a wholly different matter.

 Finally, the new RF Concepts tuner has a slick Smith chart display on the
 front panel.  Only, the charting shows the Z at the input of the tuner 
 which
 is of very limited value.  Since the input is always tuned and matched for
 50+j0, even the simple Monimatch circuit is sufficient for that purpose.
 So, it's nice eye candy but I see nearly no value in the display.

 Paul, W9AC



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the 
same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 
30 minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room 
temperature in degC.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:



 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was getting 
 some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it while I 
 had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it in high 
 power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked all the 
 parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6 adjust, the 
 r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they weren't 
 shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The voltages 
 seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd is as soon 
 as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the keying.  A dot 
 gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan activation.  
 Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even responds to 
 my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have checked the 
 archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new pads on the 
 transis
 to
   rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works fine 
 at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able to find 
 it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go through 
 that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Yeah. I did that too.  Im dreading changing the finals lol

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

-Original message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Mark Flavin markf1...@hotmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 17:45:04 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the  
same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 30  
minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room  
temperature in degC.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:

 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was  
getting some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it  
while I had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it  
in high power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked  
all the parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6  
adjust, the r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they  
weren't shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The  
voltages seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd  
is as soon as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the  
keying.  A dot gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan  
activation.  Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even  
responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have  
checked the archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new  
pads on the transisto
   rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works  
fine at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able  
to find it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go  
through that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF  

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[Elecraft] R.e: High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Fred Atchley

 

Brian wrote: An example of how the price of a tuner can grow astronomically
with power level.

At what point does it make more sense to spend the same $$ for antennas
which don't require a tuner? End snip

Brian, for people living under the pressure of CCRs (home owner
associations), and limited back yards in which to hide antennas, an
effective antenna tuner is the answer. 

The comments presented here about specific tuner shortcomings are
enlightening. Based on Elecraft's long line of engineered solutions, I'm
waiting patiently for the KAT500. 

73, Fred, AE6IC, KLine

 

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[Elecraft] K3 SN5999

2011-11-26 Thread Ron Gould

K3/100 kit arrived, assembled now and working perfectly.  Sold Orion ll and now 
have 2 K3's.  Looking into remoterig!  Elecraft please give us some preliminary 
specifications on KAT 500!

73's  Ron
kd...@comcast.net


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

I don't think the finals are the problem.  I would check Q3 for good 
soldering and the value and soldering of R5 - make certain you used the 
1k trimmer at R6 rather than the 100k trimmers for R26 and R27.
The soldering at U1 pin 5 should also be checked, and be certain U1 pin 
5 is not bent under the socket or sticking out the side.  Make certain 
there is 5 volts on one end of R5 - if not, find out why.

The temperature of the heatsink is sensed by the conduction through Q3 
from the base to the emitter (and collector),  that resulting voltage is 
sent to U1 pin 5 for calculation by the firmware  - it has nothing to do 
with the actual PA transistors, just the temperature of the heatsink at 
the Q3 location.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 1:04 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Yeah. I did that too.  Im dreading changing the finals lol

 T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

 -Original message-
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Mark Flavinmarkf1...@hotmail.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 17:45:04 GMT+00:00
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

 Mark,

 Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the
 same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

 Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 30
 minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room
 temperature in degC.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:


 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was
 getting some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it
 while I had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it
 in high power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have checked
 all the parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6
 adjust, the r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure they
 weren't shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.  The
 voltages seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats wierd
 is as soon as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the
 keying.  A dot gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan
 activation.  Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan even
 responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have
 checked the archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new
 pads on the transisto
rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works
 fine at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able
 to find it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go
 through that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF
 


 __
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2011-11-26 Thread Phillip Shepard

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (11/27/11) at 1800Z on
14.3035 MHz +/- QRM. I will be net control from western Oregon, and we'll
try relays to pull in the stations that I can't hear.

See you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Thanks Don.  This thing worked before I did the upg kit.  I will check that  
again but I didn't really touch those.  Perhaps I will remove the   Q3 and  
check that area.  Best I can tell the upgrade didn't really address any of  
that but I don't know.  The finals don't get hot at all.  I even took the  
heatsink off to make sure there were no shorts or anything and its the same.  
  The weird thing is how the fan starts and stops as I key even at low (11  
to 15 watts) power.  I just hope its not the finals.  I don't think so  
either but I want to try everything else first.  Could Q3 just be too  
sensitive due to something.  I could try changing it I suppose.

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

-Original message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Mark Flavin markf1...@hotmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 19:00:07 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

I don't think the finals are the problem.  I would check Q3 for good  
soldering and the value and soldering of R5 - make certain you used the 1k  
trimmer at R6 rather than the 100k trimmers for R26 and R27.
The soldering at U1 pin 5 should also be checked, and be certain U1 pin 5 is  
not bent under the socket or sticking out the side.  Make certain there is 5  
volts on one end of R5 - if not, find out why.

The temperature of the heatsink is sensed by the conduction through Q3 from  
the base to the emitter (and collector),  that resulting voltage is sent to  
U1 pin 5 for calculation by the firmware  - it has nothing to do with the  
actual PA transistors, just the temperature of the heatsink at the Q3  
location.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 1:04 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Yeah. I did that too.  Im dreading changing the finals lol

 T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

 -Original message-
 From: Don Wilhelmw3...@embarqmail.com
 To: Mark Flavinmarkf1...@hotmail.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 17:45:04 GMT+00:00
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

 Mark,

 Have you checked the setting of the K2 CAL TPA menu?  It should read the
 same as the actual temperature of the PA transistor cases.

 Let everything acclimate to the ambient room temperature (power off for 30
 minutes should do it), then turn power on and set CAL TPA to the room
 temperature in degC.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 11/26/2011 11:44 AM, Mark Flavin wrote:


 Well, I wanted to change the bridge diodes in the KPA 100 cause I was
 getting some wierd readings and hi swr readings so I decided to upgrade it
 while I had it apart.  I did the whole upgrade and now as soon as I put it
 in high power, even at only 15 watts, I get PA HOT readings.  I have  
checked
 all the parts values twice and did the calibration again including the C6
 adjust, the r26 and 27 adjusts and even pulled the finals to make sure  
they
 weren't shorted or anything.  Q3 and Q4 seem fine and are not cracked.   
The
 voltages seem to be fine and I readjusted R6 bias as per book.  Whats  
wierd
 is as soon as I hit the key, even at 15 watts the fan comes on with the
 keying.  A dot gives a short fan wiggle and an dash gives a loneger fan
 activation.  Eventually it comes on and then I get the PA HOT.  The fan  
even
 responds to my voice on SSB.  I mean it comes on almost instantly.  I have
 checked the archives and am starting to suspect the finals.  I put on new
 pads on the transisto
rs and checked it all twice.  Resoldered all connections.  All works
 fine at 10 watts.  Im sure Im missing something but I dont seem to be able
 to find it.  Any ideas where I can check before I order new finals and go
 through that work again.  Thanks  MarkN5MF
 


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[Elecraft] ERR VCO E00129 on my new KRX3

2011-11-26 Thread dalej

I finished installing the KRX3 this morning and after setting everything up IAW 
p.43 of the manual, I went to calibrate the KSYN3.  Everything went along ok 
until the end of the calibration and the screen said ERR VCO E 00129.  I 
performed the calibration three times with the same result.  I checked the 
cables for continuity and that they are firmly plugged into the correct sockets 
but still no joy.  So I installed the new KSYN3 in the main rx slot and 
proceeded to do the calibration routine again and it failed.  The problem 
appears to be in the new KSYN3 unless I'm missing something somewhere.  I gave 
the board a good visual inspection with my jewelers eye-loupe, but did not see 
anything obviously wrong with the solder or tracks. I'm guessing maybe one of 
those crystals went dead.

I contacted Elecraft support via email, but of course won't hear anything until 
next week.

73
Dale, k9vuj

K3 S/N 2268
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

If there was a marginal solder connection, it may have worked but with 
the movement involved with the upgrade, it may have finally failed.

Yes, investigate those components that I mentioned.  If the temperature 
is not being sensed, the fan will be turned on and off by the firmware 
because the firmware is not getting correct information about the actual 
temperature.

Are the thermal pads under Q3 and Q4 in good shape?  It may be worth 
replacing them if there is any question.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 2:24 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Thanks Don.  This thing worked before I did the upg kit.  I will check that
 again but I didn't really touch those.  Perhaps I will remove the   Q3 and
 check that area.  Best I can tell the upgrade didn't really address any of
 that but I don't know.  The finals don't get hot at all.  I even took the
 heatsink off to make sure there were no shorts or anything and its the same.
The weird thing is how the fan starts and stops as I key even at low (11
 to 15 watts) power.  I just hope its not the finals.  I don't think so
 either but I want to try everything else first.  Could Q3 just be too
 sensitive due to something.  I could try changing it I suppose.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Ok. I will do that.  Anything is worth a try

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.

-Original message-
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Mark Flavin markf1...@hotmail.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, Nov 26, 2011 20:05:50 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Problem

Mark,

If there was a marginal solder connection, it may have worked but with the  
movement involved with the upgrade, it may have finally failed.

Yes, investigate those components that I mentioned.  If the temperature is  
not being sensed, the fan will be turned on and off by the firmware because  
the firmware is not getting correct information about the actual  
temperature.

Are the thermal pads under Q3 and Q4 in good shape?  It may be worth  
replacing them if there is any question.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 2:24 PM, Mark Flavin wrote:
 Thanks Don.  This thing worked before I did the upg kit.  I will check  
that
 again but I didn't really touch those.  Perhaps I will remove the   Q3 and
 check that area.  Best I can tell the upgrade didn't really address any of
 that but I don't know.  The finals don't get hot at all.  I even took the
 heatsink off to make sure there were no shorts or anything and its the  
same.
The weird thing is how the fan starts and stops as I key even at low  
(11
 to 15 watts) power.  I just hope its not the finals.  I don't think so
 either but I want to try everything else first.  Could Q3 just be too
 sensitive due to something.  I could try changing it I suppose.

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[Elecraft] Mic problem

2011-11-26 Thread Jack Berry

I have a Pro-Set mic that came with the purchase of a used K3, s/n #3012 for 
reference.  The mic seems to be nearly dead and I wanted to make sure that I am 
not  doing something wrong before sending it to Heil for testing and repair.

Even with the gain full up and the mic right next to my mouth I can't  move the 
ALC but do hear my voice in the head set with monitor volume up  full. I have 
tried it through both the front and rear mic sockets and  another Heil mic 
works 
fine with the radio.

Any suggestions?
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[Elecraft] For sale item: K144XV-F

2011-11-26 Thread Darryl Hazelgren

K144XV-F Internal 2 M 10w Module for the K3-F for the K3-F. Was installed in a 
second K3 which had total operating time of less than 8 hours. Was removed and 
repacked in the original packaging. Will sell with the KFL3B-FM 13 kHz FM 
filter for $425.00. Will ship UPS or USPS. Contact off list at 
dar...@hazelgren.net.
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic problem

What type of Heil Proset is it?

If it is either the Heil Proset Ic or the Elecraft Proset K2/3, then you 
need to turn bias on because it has an electret element.

If it has a dynamic element (often marked with an HC4 or HC5 
designation), then no bias is required (and should not be turned on).

As you can see from the above, there are many types of Heil Prosets, and 
we would have to know the full microphone designation to make any 
certain statements.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 4:35 PM, Jack Berry wrote:
 I have a Pro-Set mic that came with the purchase of a used K3, s/n #3012 for
 reference.  The mic seems to be nearly dead and I wanted to make sure that I 
 am
 not  doing something wrong before sending it to Heil for testing and repair.

 Even with the gain full up and the mic right next to my mouth I can't  move 
 the
 ALC but do hear my voice in the head set with monitor volume up  full. I have
 tried it through both the front and rear mic sockets and  another Heil mic 
 works
 fine with the radio.


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Re: [Elecraft] Mic problem

2011-11-26 Thread Dick Dievendorff

Bias?


Dick

On Nov 26, 2011, at 13:35, Jack Berry jlbe...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I have a Pro-Set mic that came with the purchase of a used K3, s/n #3012 for 
 reference.  The mic seems to be nearly dead and I wanted to make sure that I 
 am 
 not  doing something wrong before sending it to Heil for testing and repair.
 
 Even with the gain full up and the mic right next to my mouth I can't  move 
 the 
 ALC but do hear my voice in the head set with monitor volume up  full. I have 
 tried it through both the front and rear mic sockets and  another Heil mic 
 works 
 fine with the radio.
 
 Any suggestions?
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Re: [Elecraft] Mic problem

2011-11-26 Thread Buck k4ia

In the main Config Menu  Mic Sel, I plug the mic into the front panel 
and use FP-H and no bias.  Mic gain 18-20.  Unless you have an Icom 
cartridge in the Pro-Set.  That would require bias.

Buck
k4ia
K3 # 101

On 11/26/2011 4:35 PM, Jack Berry wrote:
 I have a Pro-Set mic that came with the purchase of a used K3, s/n #3012 for
 reference.  The mic seems to be nearly dead and I wanted to make sure that I 
 am
 not  doing something wrong before sending it to Heil for testing and repair.

 Even with the gain full up and the mic right next to my mouth I can't  move 
 the
 ALC but do hear my voice in the head set with monitor volume up  full. I have
 tried it through both the front and rear mic sockets and  another Heil mic 
 works
 fine with the radio.

 Any suggestions?
 __
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[Elecraft] WTB K3

2011-11-26 Thread pkhjr

Looking to buy a K3, email k...@yahoo.com

73 Paul

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Re: [Elecraft] Mic problem

2011-11-26 Thread Jack Berry

Thanks - I didn't read far enough! Obviously!

From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To: Jack Berry jlbe...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, November 26, 2011 4:06:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mic problem

What type of Heil Proset is it?

If it is either the Heil Proset Ic or the Elecraft Proset K2/3, then you need 
to 
turn bias on because it has an electret element.

If it has a dynamic element (often marked with an HC4 or HC5 designation), then 
no bias is required (and should not be turned on).

As you can see from the above, there are many types of Heil Prosets, and we 
would have to know the full microphone designation to make any certain 
statements.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 4:35 PM, Jack Berry wrote:
 I have a Pro-Set mic that came with the purchase of a used K3, s/n #3012 for
 reference.  The mic seems to be nearly dead and I wanted to make sure that I 
am
 not  doing something wrong before sending it to Heil for testing and repair.

 Even with the gain full up and the mic right next to my mouth I can't  move 
the
 ALC but do hear my voice in the head set with monitor volume up  full. I have
 tried it through both the front and rear mic sockets and  another Heil mic 
works
 fine with the radio.

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Vic K2VCO

The balanced output is not referenced to the case. So the balun is functional 
when feeding 
a balanced line, not shorted as you suggest. However, you are correct that it 
will not 
serve as a common mode choke with unbalanced output. And Paul's comments about 
the 
placement of the balun are correct. I was surprised to see this from Alpha, 
whom I would 
have expected to know better.

I suppose I'll have to wait for the KAT1500 (no, no such product has been 
announced or 
hinted at as far as I know!)

On 11/26/2011 8:55 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

 The new RF Concepts tuner would not work well for me. It's an
 unbalanced C-L-C design with a CM choke input, similar in design
 with several Palstar tuners, only with much more rugged components
 than what Palstar provides. W9CF, W7EL, and W8JI have analyzed a
 current choke placed at the input to a C-L-C tuner and have concluded
 that placement at the input is not as effective for maintaining line
 balance as a balun placed at the tuner's output.
 The common mode choke in the Alpha tuner will be completely ineffective
 with any of the coaxial fed antenna outputs in any case!  Since it is
 *inside* a metal box and the input as well as output connectors are all
 connected to the case, any common mode current will simply bypass the
 the choke on the case!

 The *only way* to make a common mode choke effective with an unbalanced
 tuner is to connect the case of the tuner to a low impedance ground
 and place the choke in the feedline between the rig/amplifier and the
 tuner - external to the tuner.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV



-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Gary VK4FD

Vic,

I'm waiting for a KPA-1500 with the inbuilt auto-tuner.oops, gotta run, the 
nice young man in the white coat is calling me again


Gary


VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!

  - Original Message - 
  From: Vic K2VCO 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2011 9:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner


  The balanced output is not referenced to the case. So the balun is functional 
when feeding 
  a balanced line, not shorted as you suggest. However, you are correct that it 
will not 
  serve as a common mode choke with unbalanced output. And Paul's comments 
about the 
  placement of the balun are correct. I was surprised to see this from Alpha, 
whom I would 
  have expected to know better.

  I suppose I'll have to wait for the KAT1500 (no, no such product has been 
announced or 
  hinted at as far as I know!)

  On 11/26/2011 8:55 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
  
   The new RF Concepts tuner would not work well for me. It's an
   unbalanced C-L-C design with a CM choke input, similar in design
   with several Palstar tuners, only with much more rugged components
   than what Palstar provides. W9CF, W7EL, and W8JI have analyzed a
   current choke placed at the input to a C-L-C tuner and have concluded
   that placement at the input is not as effective for maintaining line
   balance as a balun placed at the tuner's output.
   The common mode choke in the Alpha tuner will be completely ineffective
   with any of the coaxial fed antenna outputs in any case!  Since it is
   *inside* a metal box and the input as well as output connectors are all
   connected to the case, any common mode current will simply bypass the
   the choke on the case!
  
   The *only way* to make a common mode choke effective with an unbalanced
   tuner is to connect the case of the tuner to a low impedance ground
   and place the choke in the feedline between the rig/amplifier and the
   tuner - external to the tuner.
  
   73,
  
... Joe, W4TV
  
  

  -- 
  Vic, K2VCO
  Fresno CA
  http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


On 11/26/2011 6:00 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
 The balanced output is not referenced to the case. So the balun is
 functional when feeding a balanced line, not shorted as you suggest.

You are correct, that the balun is not shorted when feeding a balanced
antenna.  However, in that configuration it will *only* function as a
common mode choke (if it is not constructed as a voltage balun).

Any antenna connected to the balanced terminals will still not be
truly balanced as it is not possible to generate a balanced output
at the output of an unbalanced network by forcing balance at the input
of that network.  It is quite likely that a balun at the input of
an unbalanced network will only increase circulating currents (and
losses) in the network.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 11/26/2011 6:00 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
 The balanced output is not referenced to the case. So the balun is functional 
 when feeding
 a balanced line, not shorted as you suggest. However, you are correct that it 
 will not
 serve as a common mode choke with unbalanced output. And Paul's comments 
 about the
 placement of the balun are correct. I was surprised to see this from Alpha, 
 whom I would
 have expected to know better.

 I suppose I'll have to wait for the KAT1500 (no, no such product has been 
 announced or
 hinted at as far as I know!)

 On 11/26/2011 8:55 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

 The new RF Concepts tuner would not work well for me. It's an
 unbalanced C-L-C design with a CM choke input, similar in design
 with several Palstar tuners, only with much more rugged components
 than what Palstar provides. W9CF, W7EL, and W8JI have analyzed a
 current choke placed at the input to a C-L-C tuner and have concluded
 that placement at the input is not as effective for maintaining line
 balance as a balun placed at the tuner's output.
 The common mode choke in the Alpha tuner will be completely ineffective
 with any of the coaxial fed antenna outputs in any case!  Since it is
 *inside* a metal box and the input as well as output connectors are all
 connected to the case, any common mode current will simply bypass the
 the choke on the case!

 The *only way* to make a common mode choke effective with an unbalanced
 tuner is to connect the case of the tuner to a low impedance ground
 and place the choke in the feedline between the rig/amplifier and the
 tuner - external to the tuner.

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire

The same is true of the antenna itself. Few balanced antennas -- center
fed wires, loops, etc.-- actually present a balanced load due to the
proximity of other objects in the near field of the radiator. The feed lines
to those antennas often will *not* be well balanced even when connected to
the most balanced tuner.

Fortunately, a reasonable amount of radiation from a somewhat unbalanced
feed line will not be a problem in most installations.  

73, 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Any antenna connected to the balanced terminals will still not be
truly balanced as it is not possible to generate a balanced output
at the output of an unbalanced network by forcing balance at the input
of that network.  It is quite likely that a balun at the input of
an unbalanced network will only increase circulating currents (and
losses) in the network.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

 I was surprised to see this from Alpha, whom I would have expected to know 
 better.

The identical design (less automated functions) can seen in recent issues of 
the ARRL Antenna Book  For example, see 20th Ed., pp. 25/15 - 25/19 and 
titled High-Power ARRL Antenna Tuner for Balanced or Unbalanced Lines. 
Even output C is the same at 800 pF max.

Paul, W9AC 

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[Elecraft] K2 for Sale - K2/10 with most options

2011-11-26 Thread K7MDL

K2 QRP version in very nice condition. Serial number 2633. Loaded with
most options and mods. Most all the well known audio and performance modes
completed such as the filter crystal grounding, 10M power, mic audio, TCXO,
600Hz CW indicator, FT-100 tuning knob.
Mic jack is wired for +5V power and Kenwood pattern

Has internal ATU and battery kit in the upper lid. There is no battery
currently installed.

Microphone NOT included.
Printed Manuals ARE included.

List of options:
K2/10 10W QRP Rig
KSB2 SSB Module
K160RX 2nd RX ant + 160M
K60XV Xverter+60M
KNB2 Noise Blanker
KAF2 Audio Filter
KAT2 inernal ATU
KIO2 Serial IO
KBT2-X (no battery included)
TXCO mod
600Hz CW indication mod
FT-100 tuning Knob

Total new would be over $1500, looking for $1000 or best offer in that
range.

I have used this for a few years as an IF rig for VHF transverters on the 2M
through 1296 bands. It is lightly used mostly for VHF and UHF contests. My
K2's home is part of a portable prewired VHF contesting station
(http://k7mdl.net/PortableHFVHFUHFstation.aspx ) covering all the bands
between 1.8MHz through 1296MHz (except the 6M band). The K2 and XV144 2M
transverter are going up for sale as I rebuild my station around a K3 soon
to be ordered.

I am entertaining good offers on the whole unit however and rebuilding my
station from the ground up around the K3 - just because :-).

The XV144 will be posted separately.

- Mike
K7MDL
k7...@hotmail.com
Near Seattle, WA, USA

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Vic K2VCO

I know. I expected better of them, too.

On 11/26/2011 5:37 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
 I was surprised to see this from Alpha, whom I would have expected to know
 better.
 The identical design (less automated functions) can seen in recent issues of
 the ARRL Antenna Book  For example, see 20th Ed., pp. 25/15 - 25/19 and
 titled High-Power ARRL Antenna Tuner for Balanced or Unbalanced Lines.
 Even output C is the same at 800 pF max.

 Paul, W9AC

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-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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[Elecraft] Ghost in my shack

2011-11-26 Thread Jim Farmer

I'm enjoying my K3, which I assembled a couple of months ago.  Great rig, 
getting great reports.  But I have a ghost in my shack who, every so often 
when I'm doing something else in the shack, keys the mic, usually three 
times, each time for a second or so.  Then he doesn't do it for a while. 
Since I'm only operating SSB, no signal is put out when he keys it.  I'm 
using the K3 with the Elecraft hand-held PTT mic.  The rig is connected to a 
PC running Ham Radio Deluxe, current version, but HRD doesn't seem to know 
the rig is going into transmit.  Any Ghost Busters out there looking for 
work?

Also, I'm running the output through an external peak detecting power meter. 
During a transmission, the output power starts at around 50 W peak and if I 
get windy (say, a 3-4 minute transmission), will go to about 100 W peak 
during the transmission.  Current meter on my power supply starts deflecting 
higher as the output reads higher.  I have the K3 set for maximum 110 W 
output.

Thanks,
jim

James O. Jim Farmer, K4BSE
678-640-0860
jofar...@mindspring.com (home, spam blocked)
Boss lady: http://kathysflute.com
Personal: http://home.mindspring.com/~jofarmer/index.html
Strive for perfection, but settle for excellence. 

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread Jim Miller

Google W9CF for an explanation of why a choke balun works and why is
matters not if it's on the input or output of a tuner except for convience.
Also provides math showing needed CM choke impedence.

Google K9YC for a set of measurements of real life CM chokes and
suggestions for full legal limit recipes that meet the needed impedences.

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] Ghost in my shack

2011-11-26 Thread KQ8M

Do you get the windows sound like hardware is being disconnected then
reconnected. The keying three times sounds like the initialization of the
serial port.

Tim Herrick, KQ8M
k...@kq8m.com




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Farmer
Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2011 8:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ghost in my shack

I'm enjoying my K3, which I assembled a couple of months ago.  Great rig, 
getting great reports.  But I have a ghost in my shack who, every so often 
when I'm doing something else in the shack, keys the mic, usually three 
times, each time for a second or so.  Then he doesn't do it for a while. 
Since I'm only operating SSB, no signal is put out when he keys it.  I'm 
using the K3 with the Elecraft hand-held PTT mic.  The rig is connected to a

PC running Ham Radio Deluxe, current version, but HRD doesn't seem to know 
the rig is going into transmit.  Any Ghost Busters out there looking for 
work?

Also, I'm running the output through an external peak detecting power meter.

During a transmission, the output power starts at around 50 W peak and if I 
get windy (say, a 3-4 minute transmission), will go to about 100 W peak 
during the transmission.  Current meter on my power supply starts deflecting

higher as the output reads higher.  I have the K3 set for maximum 110 W 
output.

Thanks,
jim

James O. Jim Farmer, K4BSE
678-640-0860
jofar...@mindspring.com (home, spam blocked)
Boss lady: http://kathysflute.com
Personal: http://home.mindspring.com/~jofarmer/index.html
Strive for perfection, but settle for excellence. 

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

 Google W9CF for an explanation of why a choke balun works and why is
 matters not if it's on the input or output of a tuner except for 
 convience.

What W9CF said was this:

As noted by Roy Lewallen, W7EL,[2] putting a choke balun on the input of an 
unbalanced tuner to drive a balanced line is useless. It introduces a 
``hot'' tuner case which must be isolated with no benefit over putting the 
balun on the output.

Introducing a hot chassis full of CM current isn't trivial.

Paul, W9AC
 

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

A balanced version of the T network is a physical monstrosity 
requiring that both ends of the capacitors float, but is possible.  The 
T network has the greatest matching range, but suffers from false 
matches resulting on high circulating currents in the tuner.

A balanced L network should not be difficult to produce, but if I may, 
I would like to put in a plug for my favorite balanced tuner which is 
IMHO is the old fashoined parallel (or series) resonant tank circuit 
using a link coupler.  No balun required, but it does not lend itself 
easily to band switching.  As a single band tuner, it is the ultimate 
IMHO, and the venerable Johnson Matchbox was an attempt to make that 
basic circuit bandswitchable. The Matchbox has some limitations in the 
matching range it can handle.  My Johnson Matchbox will only be pried 
from my hands over my cold dead body - I do not use it much, but it 
really is handy for creating artificial antennas with SWR in the 
workshop, and it works quite well as a bandpass filter when that is needed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/26/2011 6:48 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
 On 11/26/2011 6:00 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
 The balanced output is not referenced to the case. So the balun is
 functional when feeding a balanced line, not shorted as you suggest.
 You are correct, that the balun is not shorted when feeding a balanced
 antenna.  However, in that configuration it will *only* function as a
 common mode choke (if it is not constructed as a voltage balun).

 Any antenna connected to the balanced terminals will still not be
 truly balanced as it is not possible to generate a balanced output
 at the output of an unbalanced network by forcing balance at the input
 of that network.  It is quite likely that a balun at the input of
 an unbalanced network will only increase circulating currents (and
 losses) in the network.

 73,

  ... Joe, W4TV


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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner

2011-11-26 Thread David Gilbert


If I remember correctly, the announcement for the Alpha tuner even 
stated that they drew heavily (or words to that effect) from the ARRL 
Antenna Book for the design.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 11/26/2011 6:37 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
 I was surprised to see this from Alpha, whom I would have expected to know
 better.
 The identical design (less automated functions) can seen in recent issues of
 the ARRL Antenna Book  For example, see 20th Ed., pp. 25/15 - 25/19 and
 titled High-Power ARRL Antenna Tuner for Balanced or Unbalanced Lines.
 Even output C is the same at 800 pF max.

 Paul, W9AC

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Re: [Elecraft] High power tuner