Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

2012-07-02 Thread JP O'Connor
Hi Erik,

I do not have enough personal experience with these to provide a
suggested guideline based on my own empirical results. Other readers of
this thread may have that knowledge or know of references.

I suspect that if one does not abuse their cells, and if the cells are all
in good shape to begin with, that removing the cells every few months
should suffice.

When I install my KXBC3 I will test and charge a set of AA cells so I have
a baseline set of stats on the cells. Then I will check them after a few
cycles of use and test/charge to see how well they stayed balanced. If
badly out of balance at that point, then frequent balancing (or selection
of a few different cells for better matching) may be needed. I suspect they
will work very well, however, with balancing needed only every few months -
subject to how often they are charged and discharged.

Sorry that I could not be of more help on this. Possibly others can weigh
in for us.

Thanks,
JP

72/73 de WF4Z



On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 11:49 PM, Erik Basilier  wrote:

> JP wrote: All battery packs, regardless of chemistry, benefit from a
> periodic balance/equalize charge.
>
>
>
> Do you have any specific recommendation on how often one needs to take out
> the NiMH batteries to balance them?
>
> The KX3 battery holders are very solid (good) but I find it difficult to
> remove the batteries, as significant force is needed. I have a set of NiMH
> in there, and my default plan is to just leave them there for as long as
> possible. I hope I can install the charger when it arrives without removing
> the batteries. And, I am running on external power whenever I can, so that
> the internal batteries won't need to be charged until the internal charger
> arrives.
>
>
>
> 73,
>
> Erik K7TV
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] KX3 Received

2012-07-02 Thread 492commish


FYI: 



KX3 kit serial #614 was waiting for me when I got home from work this 
afternoon. 



R eference order# 2208-4840-8929 
Confirmed on Dec 12/28/11 8:40 AM 



The bench is ready for the build, and the Buddipole is ready for the results. 



73, 

Phil, WA7URV 

Sherwood, Oregon, USA 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - P3 or LP-PAN comparison

2012-07-02 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

NaP3 is not the only software required with LP-Pan.  Most installations
require LP-Bridge or some other software port sharing package to allow
both NaP3 and a logging program to "share" control of the K3.

Several logging packages fail to work properly with LP-Bridge to the
point that their developers refuse to accept bug reports if LPB is
running.  The resource load of LP-Pan must include both NaP3 and LPB
as well as the interference they cause to logging software.  There is
no such problem with the P3.

73,

... Joe, W4TV



On 7/2/2012 11:36 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
> On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 10:04 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:
>
>> ...LP-Pan/NaP3 is very computer intensive...
>
> ==
> On my 2009-vintage Asus laptop, running LP-Bridge and LP-Pan increases CPU
> usage by about 15 percentage points. With MixW2 and VE7CC running and a web
> browser open, total CPU load is about 30%. I have an outboard 23" monitor
> configured as an extended desktop, and am using ASIO drivers for an EMU
> 0202. The NaP3 window is 13 1/2" wide, of which 12" is the panadapter
> picture of the band. There is enough CPU capability to display videos at
> full-screen size on the laptop screen while the rest of the stuff is
> running.
>
> Tony KT0NY
>
>

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[Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

2012-07-02 Thread Erik Basilier
JP wrote: All battery packs, regardless of chemistry, benefit from a
periodic balance/equalize charge.

 

Do you have any specific recommendation on how often one needs to take out
the NiMH batteries to balance them?

The KX3 battery holders are very solid (good) but I find it difficult to
remove the batteries, as significant force is needed. I have a set of NiMH
in there, and my default plan is to just leave them there for as long as
possible. I hope I can install the charger when it arrives without removing
the batteries. And, I am running on external power whenever I can, so that
the internal batteries won't need to be charged until the internal charger
arrives.

 

73,

Erik K7TV

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - P3 or LP-PAN comparison

2012-07-02 Thread Tony Estep
On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 10:04 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:

> ...LP-Pan/NaP3 is very computer intensive...

==
On my 2009-vintage Asus laptop, running LP-Bridge and LP-Pan increases CPU
usage by about 15 percentage points. With MixW2 and VE7CC running and a web
browser open, total CPU load is about 30%. I have an outboard 23" monitor
configured as an extended desktop, and am using ASIO drivers for an EMU
0202. The NaP3 window is 13 1/2" wide, of which 12" is the panadapter
picture of the band. There is enough CPU capability to display videos at
full-screen size on the laptop screen while the rest of the stuff is
running.

Tony KT0NY


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Phil and all,

Yes, for diversity receive, the filters should be matched.  In theory, 
the 8 pole filters should have zero offset, but in practice, they may 
have a small bit of an offset.  The answer is to "compromise" - if you 
hear a WOW-WOW sound while listening to diversity, you should change the 
filter offsets a bit. until you eliminate the WOW-WOW.

If you are using the SubRX only for RX of the DX in a split situation, 
there is no need to have matched filters - that operation is quite 
different than diversity operation.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/2/2012 10:50 PM, Phillip Shepard wrote:
> My understanding is that diversity receive works best with matched receiver
> topologies.  Should the subRx have the same filter array as the main Rx
> (bandwidths and types)?  If the main Rx has 8-pole 2.8, 1.8 and 0.4 kHz
> filters, should the subRx mimic that?  Thank you for the enlightenment.
>
> 73,
> Phil, NS7P
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 7:11 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver
>
>
> And for most operations 8 pole filters are not required.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
> -Original Message-
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> You are right! I should have read the manual before posting ;-)
>
> It is important to consider the filters needed for the subRX - 8-pole
> filters are not inexpensive.
>
> I hope to have both someday, but for now am very happy with my P3 and KPA500
> (and KAT500 on order...).
>
> -
> Brian,  op K1NW
> --
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery charger

2012-07-02 Thread JP O'Connor
Hi Ed,

Terminology can be a tricky thing! So can the specifics of different
battery types and how to charge them. You raise a number of excellent
questions.

In order to assist other readers who may not be as familiar with the topic,
and to assure I am being clear, I will go in to some detail.

--

Balance and Equalize

I think we are using these two terms synonymously.

Balancing chargers have access to each cell and during the charge cycle
will send different amounts of energy to each cell so that each cell is
properly "topped off" on its own. If a multi-cell pack is rapid charged,
there is the risk of undercharging some cells (an inconvenience) and
overcharging other cells (causing damage, and in some cases causing
catastrophic failure). I suspect this is exactly the same as equalizing. I
purchased my LiFePO4 packs and iCHarger 106B+ balancing charger from a
vendor (EP Buddy) in the radio control model hobby, so that is why I picked
up the "balance" term.

One must/should use a balancing/equalizing charger when rapid charging a
battery pack, especially when using extremely high charge rates. When slow
charging, the balancing/equalizing function, though beneficial, is not
required.

--

Charging LiFePO4 Batteries

When talking about charging batteries using this specific chemistry, one
must clearly state if they are talking about charging a pack that has no
internal electronics (for charge control and safety) or a pack that is set
up with cells and a control board inside. The latter style is often
configured as a drop in replacement for a traditional sealed lead acid
(SLA) battery. I did not make that distinction in my earlier post in this
thread, thus introducing the possibility of confusion.

Some LiFePO4 batteries are the exact same size and shape as SLA batteries
and are advertised as drop in replacements. These units have an internal
charge controller that handles the actual charging of the cells, often (but
not always) with balancing/equalizing capability included. Externally, the
battery is connected to whatever was charging the original SLA in the
application. Thus, an uninterruptible power supply, any application using a
standard SLA charger, or a solar power application may gain the benefits of
the LiFePO4 chemistry and still provide charging current/profile as if the
battery is an SLA. The controller inside the battery does the "translation"
to manage the actual LiFePO4 cells. In these types of applications, a
"standard" solar charge controller (which is designed for lead acid
batteries) may be used as is because the battery mimics an SLA.

Some LifePO4 battery packs are just made up of cells only, have no control
board, and must be charged by a system that is designed for this specific
chemistry. Just as with any other type of battery, slow charging may be
performed without balancing/equalizing and rapid charging does require
balancing/equalizing. This is the type of pack I am using. They are
supplied by EP Buddy, BuddiPople, and many others.

Note that a LiFePO4 pack of the same nominal capacity as an SLA battery
will have significantly more actual usable capacity within a single charge.
SLA batteries have dramatically reduced life if discharged more than 50% of
capacity and have significant voltage drop even at that point. LiFePO4
batteries on the other hand may be safely discharged much more (80% or
more?) without damage or diminished life, while retaining almost full
voltage until discharged about 80% or so. LiFePO4 also seem to have a
significantly longer "shelf life" and "service life" than SLA batteries.
Those who have experience with overall life of these types of batteries may
wish to comment with their findings.

--

Solar Charge Controllers

There is nothing magic about solar charge controllers. They are like any
other charger, except that they are designed to handle the wide voltage and
current range presented by a solar panel or array. Just as with any type of
charger, they must know the type of chemistry utilized by the battery so
that the proper charge profile is used. It is commonly known that lead
acid, NiMh, and Li-ion all use different charge profiles, so the proper
type of charger (or solar charge controller) must be used with each.

Just as with "standard" battery chargers, solar charge controllers are not
all alike. Choose the proper type for your battery chemistry or battery
pack profile. This isn't always made obvious to the prospective purchaser
since, historically, most general purpose consumer solar applications
involve SLA batteries.

--

For the KX3 I plan to use the following portable power options and charging
equipment/methods:

Internal lithium primary cells (8 AA size Energizer L92 Ultimate Lithium)
- Non-rechargeable - used only as emergency spares (Alkaline make very poor
spares in this application, although due to their common availability are
the ultimate spares of last resort.)

Internal NiMh low self discharge (LSD) cells (8 AA size Eneloop XX nominal

Re: [Elecraft] K3 - P3 or LP-PAN comparison

2012-07-02 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

Here's the direct link:
 http://www.telepostinc.com/P3_comp.html

It's there plain as day about 1/3 of the way down the main LP-Pan
page: http://www.telepostinc.com/LP-PAN.html

Note - the comparison is between LP-Pan with NaP3 software and P3SVGA.
LP-Pan/NaP3 is very computer intensive (PowerSDR is a resource hog)
which is not adequately disclosed and the price comparisons are very
biased by the cost of the SVGA option which increases the price of
the base P3 by nearly 40%.

73,

... Joe, W4TV



On 7/2/2012 10:42 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
> Could you give us the URL for the comparison.  I've been on the page, but I
> can't find it.  Thanks and 73, Guy.
>
> On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:22 PM, Ignacy  wrote:
>
>> N8LP on his website has a very comprehensive and IMHO honest comparison of
>> P3
>> and LP-PAN.
>>
>> In snapshot, if you are strained on cash, good in computers, and occasional
>> software problems are not an issue, use LP-PAN.
>>
>> If reliability and ability to change parameters fast via buttons are more
>> important, P3 is good.
>>
>> I used SDR-IQ but eventually bought P3.
>>
>> Ignacy
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-P3-or-LP-PAN-comparison-tp7558493p7558497.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Phillip Shepard
My understanding is that diversity receive works best with matched receiver
topologies.  Should the subRx have the same filter array as the main Rx
(bandwidths and types)?  If the main Rx has 8-pole 2.8, 1.8 and 0.4 kHz
filters, should the subRx mimic that?  Thank you for the enlightenment.

73,
Phil, NS7P

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 7:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver


And for most operations 8 pole filters are not required.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi Mike,

You are right! I should have read the manual before posting ;-)

It is important to consider the filters needed for the subRX - 8-pole
filters are not inexpensive.

I hope to have both someday, but for now am very happy with my P3 and KPA500
(and KAT500 on order...).

-
Brian,  op K1NW
--

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - P3 or LP-PAN comparison

2012-07-02 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Could you give us the URL for the comparison.  I've been on the page, but I
can't find it.  Thanks and 73, Guy.

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:22 PM, Ignacy  wrote:

> N8LP on his website has a very comprehensive and IMHO honest comparison of
> P3
> and LP-PAN.
>
> In snapshot, if you are strained on cash, good in computers, and occasional
> software problems are not an issue, use LP-PAN.
>
> If reliability and ability to change parameters fast via buttons are more
> important, P3 is good.
>
> I used SDR-IQ but eventually bought P3.
>
> Ignacy
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-P3-or-LP-PAN-comparison-tp7558493p7558497.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
And for most operations 8 pole filters are not required. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hi Mike,

You are right! I should have read the manual before posting ;-)

It is important to consider the filters needed for the subRX - 8-pole
filters are not inexpensive. 

I hope to have both someday, but for now am very happy with my P3 and KPA500
(and KAT500 on order...).

-
Brian,  op K1NW
--

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[Elecraft] High power Amplifier for QRP Rig

2012-07-02 Thread Doug Millar
Hi, 

   I have for sale a "Jumbo 240DX" HF amplifier with Rx RF amp stage. It 
is in its original box. I just tested it on 10m (45watts out)through 
160m (80w output) with 4.5watts drive. It says that it will do 240w PEP 
output at max drive. I am also including a filter board from a TS 440S. 
This has dc switched filters for all the ham bands and an SWR coupler on board. 
Easy to mount and daisy chain with the amplifier. I did not 
check the amp at high power but assume it is fine. It is about the same 
size and layout as an RF Concepts VHF 100w amplifier. Takes standard 
13.5vDC input.
Asking $250 plus shipping. Ok in QRZ.com Accept Pay Pal. It is a pretty amp in 
great condition that will add a lot of zing to your QRP signal when you need 
it. 

  Doug K6JEY  Long Beach, CA 90806
 
Dr.Doug Millar EdD. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 with a strange XFIL problem...

2012-07-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bruce,

There is nothing overtly associated with the selection of FL3 that 
*should* cause a lockup.  The way the bandwidth is controlled is to vary 
the voltage of the XFIL/TONE signal from the D/A converter - front panel 
U2 and apply it to the varactors connected to the filter crystals.

I suspect that you have a corrupt bit(s) in EEPROM. You will have to do 
all the VFO, SIG and other menu calibration steps, but you can try a 
Reset to Firmware Defaults - see page 57 of the K1 manual.

But then I see that you have tried that - so perhaps a new firmware IC 
is in order - that is just a guess, but the best firmware 
troubleshooting tool is substitution.  You could also try replacing 
Front Panel U2 and U3 along with U1.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/2/2012 5:36 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:
> OK, folks.
> Time to put on your thinking caps...
> I just purchased a used K1. Has NB, ATU and 4 band board, set for
> 7/10.1/14/21 MHz. All appears to be operating normally, except...
> When cycling through the crystal filter bandwidths from FL1-FL3, once FL3 is
> reached, all buttons become unresponsive. The VFO readout still works, but
> the MCU will not respond to any key presses. The filter does actually switch
> to the narrowest setting, based on the audio response. Cycling the power
> returns the rig to normal operation (on FL1), and all works fine again until
> trying to use FL3.
>
> About the only other anomaly I notice is what seems to be a louder pop in
> the speaker when switching in RIT or XIT than I remember from my last K1. I
> have not yet begun any troubleshooting (except for a full reset). Just
> thought I would poll the collective wisdom here before digging in. Actually,
> I'll be getting ready for Lobstercon over the next couple of days, so I
> don't know how much time I'll be able to commit until after the weekend.
>
> I'd appreciate any thoughts or ideas on this one.
> Thanks es 72/73,
> Bruce, N1RX
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Brian Maynard
Hi Mike,

You are right! I should have read the manual before posting ;-)

It is important to consider the filters needed for the subRX - 8-pole
filters are not inexpensive. 

I hope to have both someday, but for now am very happy with my P3 and KPA500
(and KAT500 on order...).

-
Brian,  op K1NW
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-panadapter-or-subreceiver-tp7558492p7558525.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3PR6 Preamp

2012-07-02 Thread Keith Heimbold
Definitely believes it makes a huge difference on 6m. I use it with the 
internal preamp as well as without it. Now that I have it I wouldn't be without 
it.

Keith
AG6AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread John Harper
I had the same question over a year ago and received the following replies:
http://www.ae5x.com/blog/2010/09/05/the-most-beneficial-k3-upgrade-panadapter-or-sub-reciever/?trashed=1&ids=1987

I've still not added either but after operating the K3 much as you do, there is 
no longer any question in my mind - the next upgrade will be the sub-rx.

John AE5X


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Brian,

Use of a sub RX does not require a second antenna. I've been using a sub RX
to chase split DX since 1991 with one antenna. The only time a second
antenna is necessary is if you want to use diversity reception or possibly
for some cross band activity. 

Conversely, a sub RX is not required to utilize a second antenna. You can
use a second antenna with the main RX with the addition of the optional
KXV3A board.

73,
Mike K2MK



Brian Maynard wrote
> 
> I thought this through and chose the P3. The subRX requires a second
> antenna - which I did not have - and the matching filters, so it is not
> just the receiver alone. The P3 does everything the others have mentioned,
> and as one responder said - you will end up using it all the time if you
> work DX split.
> 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread N4QS
Robert,

I have both the subRX and the panadapter, and I love and use both a lot. 
But if I had to choose between one or the other, I would definitely 
recommend the P3.  I use the P3 all the time -- it is a revolutionary new 
way to interface with the radio.  I just used it a moment ago to break a 
huge pile up trying to work 1A0C on 20M RTTY.  I also use the panadaptor to 
view band openings and gage the general acitivity on the bands.  When 
tunring the K3, I hardly ever look at the frequency readout anymore.  I 
instead look at the P3 and move from one signal to another much faster.

I do use the subRX, especially when I have to go split in a big pileup.  But 
I don't use it nearly as much as the P3.  I orginally bought my K3 without 
the subRX and was very comfortable going split with two VFOs.  When I added 
the subRX, I quickly learned how to use it to listen and tune through a pile 
to find the station being worked or a gap in the pileup as a whole.  But 
once I got the panadaptor, I don't have to listen on the sub RX nearly as 
much.  The panadaptor allows me to see the pileup and move my VFO B 
frequency visually and much more quickly.

So if I had to choose, I would vote for the P3.  But the real answer is the 
two in combination are lights out!  One final thought: if you are going to 
order your K3 factory built, it might make more sense to buy the subRX.  It 
is a bit involved adding the subRX after the fact.  It is super easy to add 
the P3 at any time.  If you already have a K3, then it is a lot easier to 
add the P3.  Eventually, you will want to have both.

Dave, N4QS

- Original Message - 
From: "Robert G. Strickland" 
To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 12:50 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver


>I have never used either a panadapter or a sub-receiver, so I'm a newbie
> in this area. I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX and enter
> contests [less so in the past, more in the future]. I have a "small
> pistol" station with no allusions of being a band master. Question:
> which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and
> operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had
> to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions.
>
> ...robert
> -- 
> Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
> rc...@verizon.net
> Syracuse, New York, USA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I'm a certified (or certifiable?) O.T. who has been haunting the Ham bands
for over half a century, content to listen intently for signals while slowly
cranking the main tuning knob. Panadapters have been around a long time, but
I always thought "Huh! Who needs that sort of gadget?"

Then came the P3. I'm addicted. It's worse than TV way back in the days when
we'd sit around for hours watching the test pattern, but infinitely more
useful! 

If I had to choose today, it'd be the P3 over the subrx without hesitation.

BTW, like Craig I find it very useful for chasing RFI. 

73, Ron AC7AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - P3 or LP-PAN comparison

2012-07-02 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Robert,

The Perseus SDR, which uses a computer for display and control purposes, 
performs very well as a panadapter, also as a multi mode receiver which 
covers 10 kHz to 40 MHz

The maximum span which can be displayed is 1600 kHz, and the minimum span is 
800 Hz.  The resolution bandwidth is stated to be 1 (one) Hz when the span 
is set for 800 Hz, which allows one to see clearly a weak CW signal 
separated by 10 - 11 Hz from a very much stronger CW signal ( 50 - 60 db 
stronger) at the narrower scan settings.

I have never run out of markers when attempting to deduce (using my Perseus) 
the listening pattern of a DX station in a pileup, if he/she is following 
some sort of listening pattern.

The dimensions of this SDR are 4.25 x 1.5 x 7.5 inches, and it weighs 380 
grams (sorry for mixing Imperial with Metric!).

I have no financial interests related to this SDR.

73,

Geoff
LX2AO


On July 02, 2012 at 8:01 PM, Robert G. Strickland wrote:


> In another post I ask about sub-receiver versus panadapter. Here, a
> question about type of panadapter. My station occupies a very small
> space, and adding the P3 would strain the real estate. So, I've been
> looking at other panadapter possibilities that use the computer screen
> for display.
> Are there any other panadapter options that
> I should consider? Thanks for any and all opinions.
>
> ...robert

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Craig Smith
I have both with my K3.  If I could have only one, it would definitely be the 
P3.  The sub RX is great for diversity receive which helps a lot in CW 
contesting.  But the P3, as other have pointed out, lets you quickly find where 
to place your signal when trying to find a good run frequency.  For DXing, I 
think it is pretty much a tossup.

But one aspect of the P3 that no one has recently mentioned is that it makes a 
SUPERB piece of test equipment when used with the K3.  I don't have a dedicated 
spectrum analyzer but found that the P3 meets many of these needs.  I use it 
when designing and characterizing filters.  The ability to easily download and 
print out plots in full high resolution color is amazing.  I often use it with 
the Elecraft noise source as an input signal.  Of course I have the general 
coverage bandpass filters K3 option, which I highly recommend.  And the K3's 
functionality as a calibrated tunable RF voltmeter is awesome as well.

The P3 is also invaluable as a tool for tracking down EMI. You can see the type 
of signal and how it is moving in frequency vs. time.  I use it for this both 
with the K3 and also as a portable battery powered standalone EMI receiver by 
setting the programmable IF frequency to the range of interest and using a 
small hand-held loop antenna.

For anyone with an interest in home brewing and circuit design, I can't 
recommend the K3/P3 combo highly enough.


73   Craig   AC0DS

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Hisashi T Fujinaka
I'd agree. I never had either in the past and now I'm constantly looking
at the P3 and I do use the sub-receiver but don't turn it on every time
I'm on. The panadapter tells me when the band is dead, when my antenna
is tuned properly (I have a magnetic loop that needs to be tuned all the
time), when other stations are on, and also if the *%&# power line
arcing is active on the pole outside my house (it's scheduled to be
fixed, but it's been going on for months). I'm sure I could go back to
doing things the old way, but it's like turning off DX spotting: why
would I want to?

On Mon, 2 Jul 2012, Mike K2MK wrote:

> Hi Robert,
>
> I have the sub RX and the P3 and I would not want to be without either,
> however, if I were trying to save money on an initial purchase I would buy
> the P3. The P3 is easy to use and is useful at all times under all
> conditions. The large screen SVGA option which I also have is nice but
> certainly not mandatory. The P3 in combination with the existing tools on
> the K3 will make working split very rewarding.
>
> The sub RX is wonderful but I can go weeks without every turning it on. But
> when needed it is a superb tool. However, working a split DX station where
> there are thousands of callers is still tedious. The sub RX in combination
> with the P3 is terrific.
>
> I would also say that a P3 is much more useful in a contest than a sub RX.
> I've operated many CW contests where I never turn on the sub RX but use the
> P3 extensively. However, if you have the opportunity to add a low noise
> receive antenna for the low bands then the sub RX can also be used for
> diversity reception. This is where you can listen to your transmit antenna
> in one ear and your receive antenna in the other ear. For some this is a
> powerful tool for weak signal work.
>
> RobertG wrote
>>
>> I have never used either a panadapter or a sub-receiver, so I'm a newbie
>> in this area. I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX and enter
>> contests [less so in the past, more in the future]. I have a "small
>> pistol" station with no allusions of being a band master. Question:
>> which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and
>> operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had
>> to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions.

-- 
Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Brian Maynard
I thought this through and chose the P3. The subRX requires a second antenna
- which I did not have - and the matching filters, so it is not just the
receiver alone. The P3 does everything the others have mentioned, and as one
responder said - you will end up using it all the time if you work DX split.

-
Brian,  op K1NW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Robert,

I have the sub RX and the P3 and I would not want to be without either,
however, if I were trying to save money on an initial purchase I would buy
the P3. The P3 is easy to use and is useful at all times under all
conditions. The large screen SVGA option which I also have is nice but
certainly not mandatory. The P3 in combination with the existing tools on
the K3 will make working split very rewarding.

The sub RX is wonderful but I can go weeks without every turning it on. But
when needed it is a superb tool. However, working a split DX station where
there are thousands of callers is still tedious. The sub RX in combination
with the P3 is terrific.

I would also say that a P3 is much more useful in a contest than a sub RX.
I've operated many CW contests where I never turn on the sub RX but use the
P3 extensively. However, if you have the opportunity to add a low noise
receive antenna for the low bands then the sub RX can also be used for
diversity reception. This is where you can listen to your transmit antenna
in one ear and your receive antenna in the other ear. For some this is a
powerful tool for weak signal work.

73,
Mike K2MK 



RobertG wrote
> 
> I have never used either a panadapter or a sub-receiver, so I'm a newbie 
> in this area. I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX and enter 
> contests [less so in the past, more in the future]. I have a "small 
> pistol" station with no allusions of being a band master. Question: 
> which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and 
> operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had 
> to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions.
> 
> ...robert
> -- 
> Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
> 


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Re: [Elecraft] 4.48 vs 4.51 CW Decode (my test)

2012-07-02 Thread Scott Monks
Hi all,
    I know that this topic has more or less gone its way, but I just got a 
chance to try this out during the past weekend.

    I hadn't had much luck with decoding CW on the K3--usually a bunch of 
asterisks and "E"s and nothing else.  However, I got new 700Hz filters a week 
ago or so and wanted to try them out and also was curious about what I had been 
reading.  I do pretty good copying CW but when they start send 30wpm or so in 
contests I often have a lot of trouble copying DX callsigns from scratch.  I 
originally tried copying from 4.48 but had no luck and could never get it to 
work, in spite of what I read in the posts.

    What a surprise I got from version 4.51!!  It would read any strong signal 
without any trouble, even when there are other signals nearby.  When I used 
tighter (700 or 400) filters or APF it was even better--just as Wayne and 
others had mentioned.  No, it wouldn't copy EVERY character here at my very 
noisy location, but I found that it did help me verify what I "thought" I was 
hearing on the, for me, ultra-fast CW in this weekend's contests.

 I also downloaded and installed the latest version of MacLoggerDX, which 
now sports a CW reader for use with the K3, and it was excellent, recording the 
same characters that passed on the K3 screen with the addition of the ability 
to see at least 5 lines of code and at least some scroll-back. [not an ad for 
MacLoggerDX but think it is worthwhile noting]

    So, the new version gets my un-expert vote for a great improvement in this 
area.  Keep up the good work, Elecraft!

73, Scott  XE1/AA0AA;  AA0AA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV
On 7/2/2012 10:50 AM, Robert G. Strickland wrote:
 > Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had
 > to choose, which one would seem preferable?

It would be a very tough choice.  The panadapter provides a "50,000
foot view" ... I can be chasing one pile-up or working JT-65 on 6
meters and see if something else pops up elsewhere in the band.  When
coupled with the DX Cluster that often alerts me when it something I
can work rather than chasing spots I can't hear.

On the other hand the second receiver allows me to listen in the
pile-up with much more detail than I get from the P3 ... or actually
listen to/check out that "blip"/spot before I leave the current
frequency and chase to the opposite end of the band or change modes.


73,

... Joe, W4TV





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[Elecraft] K1 with a strange XFIL problem...

2012-07-02 Thread Bruce Beford
OK, folks.
Time to put on your thinking caps...
I just purchased a used K1. Has NB, ATU and 4 band board, set for
7/10.1/14/21 MHz. All appears to be operating normally, except...
When cycling through the crystal filter bandwidths from FL1-FL3, once FL3 is
reached, all buttons become unresponsive. The VFO readout still works, but
the MCU will not respond to any key presses. The filter does actually switch
to the narrowest setting, based on the audio response. Cycling the power
returns the rig to normal operation (on FL1), and all works fine again until
trying to use FL3.

About the only other anomaly I notice is what seems to be a louder pop in
the speaker when switching in RIT or XIT than I remember from my last K1. I
have not yet begun any troubleshooting (except for a full reset). Just
thought I would poll the collective wisdom here before digging in. Actually,
I'll be getting ready for Lobstercon over the next couple of days, so I
don't know how much time I'll be able to commit until after the weekend.

I'd appreciate any thoughts or ideas on this one.
Thanks es 72/73,
Bruce, N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread Matt Maguire
I also had a situation where I was getting a string of dahs in the middle
of  transmission. At first I thought it may have been a sticky KXPD3 set
too tight, but then the same thing happened using an external Begali
paddle. The adhoc antenna feedline situation I was using was, let's just
say, not ideal, and I was running a full 10W when the problem happened, so
I then suspected RF was getting back into the radio. I replaced that
jury-rigged antenna setup with some proper feedline and a balun, and have
not had any problem since.

73, Matt VK2ACL
On Jul 2, 2012 11:14 PM, "Sid Leben"  wrote:

> I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.  Similar to
> my K3, but not the same..
> I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
> As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I invoke
> "NR" the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come, as there are no
> levels to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the default Threshold of 7,
> is not sufficient.  I will try lower levels to stop the overload from
> strong stations.
> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to ring
> when peaked in mode II.
>
> XPD3 paddle.  Mechanically a very nice match to the rig.  I prefer a tight
> (little movement ) paddle. I adjusted the paddles until constant contact &
> then backed off, then tightened.  Still more movement then I like, but I
> can acclimate.  Sometimes in the middle of a transmission, I would get a
> string of dits or dahs, generally happens when settings too tight.  I have
> opened the settings more, inducing more travel, & I still get the "stuck"
> condition.  I am wondering if this is a mechanical problem with the key, or
> a software pblm with the encoder circuit 
>
> I will take it portable this afternoon & give it a workout.  I would
> appreciate comments.
>
> Sid
> KC2EE
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Probs with KPA100 and KIO2 interface

2012-07-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

Is this a separate KIO2 option, or are you referring to the RS-232 
function on the KPA100?

If it is the KIO2 option, I can give you some tests that can be used 
with DC signals and a DMM - unfortunately the same scheme does not work 
with the KPA100, and the easiest way to troubleshoot it is to use an 
oscilloscope.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/2/2012 5:00 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:
> I just purchased a KPA100 from someone on the list and got it installed and 
> working fine, but I can't seem to get the KI02 going. I'm using a Mac and 
> Aether software. I set everything correctly in the software and nothing. I 
> tried Mac logger deluxe and the same result. Checked the KUSB cable that I 
> got from Elecraft as well as the cable I built that came with the KI02 kit 
> and they check out ok.  What should be next on my list of things to check?
>
>

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[Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or sub receiver?

2012-07-02 Thread David and Dianne on Comcast
Robert,

Work DX? Work Split?  2nd receiver hands down 
would be my choice.

Had a P3 here for over a year and finally sold it. 
Too confusing and too distracting. No regrets 
either. Screens, HF radios and me don't mix.

K3 2nd receiver makes working split so easy its 
almost criminal.

Use the VE7CC DX Cluster and a two receiver K3 and 
you'll be good to go.

YMMV

My $.02

73 de N1LQ-Dave
347 DXCC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Hi Robert, 

Having never used a panadapter until working at Elecraft, I can honestly say
that I can't imagine having a station without one. With a P3 (or LP-Pan for
that matter) I can literally see the band at a glance.  One of the really
nice features is the history or waterfall, which allows you to easily work a
pileup.  And there is so much more. 

Just my $0.02 worth, 

Paul


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[Elecraft] Probs with KPA100 and KIO2 interface

2012-07-02 Thread Stephen Roberts
I just purchased a KPA100 from someone on the list and got it installed and 
working fine, but I can't seem to get the KI02 going. I'm using a Mac and 
Aether software. I set everything correctly in the software and nothing. I 
tried Mac logger deluxe and the same result. Checked the KUSB cable that I got 
from Elecraft as well as the cable I built that came with the KI02 kit and they 
check out ok.  What should be next on my list of things to check?

73
Steve


---
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT









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Re: [Elecraft] K3PR6 Preamp

2012-07-02 Thread ea3aky
Hi Peter

Yes, I believe it's a must to work dx on 6 meters. I think K3 is a bit deaf
without it.

EA3AKY 
http://ea3aky.blogspot.com/



-Mensaje original-
De: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] En nombre de Peter Chamalian
Enviado el: lunes, 02 de julio de 2012 22:24
Para: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: [Elecraft] K3PR6 Preamp

Being new to 6 meters, I'm wondering if the investment in the K3PR6 is worth
it.  

 

I'm using an Innova 5 element LPA VR at 85 feet fed with hard line with the
last 20 or so feet with Buryflex so the loss is pretty minimal.

 

If you have experience with the K3PR6 Preamp, I'd appreciate your comments.

 

Thanks,

 

Pete, W1RM

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3PR6 Preamp

2012-07-02 Thread Lance Collister, W7GJ
ABSOLUTELY GET THE PREAMP!   The K3 is a great radio but it is USUALLY hard of 
hearing on 6m without it. With the preamp, it is one of the best radios 
possible for 
6m.   I have very successfully used it on 6m EME DXpeditions to E51, 3D2 and 
5W0.  GL 
and VY 73, Lance


On 7/2/2012 8:23 PM, Peter Chamalian wrote:
> Being new to 6 meters, I'm wondering if the investment in the K3PR6 is worth
> it.
>
>   
>
> I'm using an Innova 5 element LPA VR at 85 feet fed with hard line with the
> last 20 or so feet with Buryflex so the loss is pretty minimal.
>
>   
>
> If you have experience with the K3PR6 Preamp, I'd appreciate your comments.
>
>   
>
> Thanks,
>
>   
>
> Pete, W1RM
>
>   
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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-- 
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

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Re: [Elecraft] K3PR6 Preamp

2012-07-02 Thread Ken G Kopp
Excellent performnce ... worth the investment!

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Peter Chamalian  wrote:
> Being new to 6 meters, I'm wondering if the investment in the K3PR6 is worth
> it.
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[Elecraft] K3PR6 Preamp

2012-07-02 Thread Peter Chamalian
Being new to 6 meters, I'm wondering if the investment in the K3PR6 is worth
it.  

 

I'm using an Innova 5 element LPA VR at 85 feet fed with hard line with the
last 20 or so feet with Buryflex so the loss is pretty minimal.

 

If you have experience with the K3PR6 Preamp, I'd appreciate your comments.

 

Thanks,

 

Pete, W1RM

 

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[Elecraft] WT: KFL3A-1.8K

2012-07-02 Thread Alfredo Vélez WP3C
Hi

 

I would like to know if someone have on sale the Elecraft KFL3A-1.8K  1.8
kHz, 8-pole please let me know. 73’

 

Alfredo WP3C

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Fred Jensen
Standby for incoming, Robert.:-)  My suggestion:  Your K3 has two VFO's 
and will run them split.  That's what you need for DX.  Without the 
subRx, you have to press and hold the REV button to listen on your TX 
freq on VFO B in SPLIT.  It reverts to VFO A when you let go.  With the 
subRx, you can hear both frequencies, one in each ear if you have all 
the stereo stuff set up right.

With the P3, you don't really need to listen to your TX frequency at 
all, you can see it at the VFO B cursor in SPLIT.  If you're in the 
middle of the biggest part of the pile, it is obvious instantly, so move.

DX Chasing With a P3 and No SubRX:  Find the DX.  If you can't hear him, 
find someone else.  If you can copy him, tap A>B.  Then hold it for 
SPLIT.  On the P3, the VFO A cursor ["color A"] is on the DX.  VFO B 
cursor ["color B"] is on top of it.  Rotate the "Little Knob" and put 
VFO B somewhere in the pile, anywhere is OK, it really doesn't matter. 
Pile calls DX, DX finally calls someone.  One [if you're fortunate] 
signal will pop up.  Put VFO B on that signal.  When DX sends TU, call 
him.  It's almost too easy, takes longer to describe it than to get in 
the DX station's log. :-)

The subRx has a number of uses, diversity reception being one, and there 
are others.  However, your K3 will already "do DX" just fine, and a P3 
will change your operating habits [and coefficient of fun] dramatically. 
  I bought mine pretty much as a toy.  It's all I watch now.  When S&P 
in a contest, I no longer tune with the Big Knob, I use the SELECT knob 
on the P3, put MRKR A on each signal and tap the knob.

The various markers and cursors on the P3 are different colors, I don't 
have any color vision so I don't know what colors they are, but I don't 
have any problem at all operating with the P3.  I do use
On 7/2/2012 10:50 AM, Robert G. Strickland wrote:

> Question:
> which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and
> operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had
> to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Tony Estep
On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 12:50 PM, Robert G. Strickland wrote:

> ...I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX..

==
Well, Bob, if you chase DX on CW you will get a major boost out of the 2nd
receiver. Once you have worked the easy ones, you'll find that just about
every new one you'll need will be operating split. It is so much easier to
snag the guy when you can listen on two frequencies at once. With 2
receivers, you can put the main on the DX and the sub, set to a wider
passband (I use 2 Khz), on the pile. You hear the DX in your left ear, the
calling stations in your right. Then with luck you can find the guy who's
currently working the DX, get your signal on or near his frequency, and
make your call.

This same routine is even slicker if you have both the 2nd receiver and a
panadapter. However, the panadapter by itself will not find the guy who's
working the DX, because the pile never stops calling even during a QSO, so
you'll see a bunch of spikes and you won't know which one is the station
that the DX is listening to.

Whatever you decide, good luck and good DX.

Tony KT0NY



-- 
http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 digipan-fldigi and mmtty?

2012-07-02 Thread Jim Brown
On 7/2/2012 12:19 PM, kf4clo wrote:
> I am running psk31 with my k3 hooked up line in to line out,line
> out to line in-keying it with vox. I'm wondering if I can use this same set
> up With Fldigi or mmtty without having to change the way I key the k3.

No problem -- it will work just fine.  I do exactly what you do with 
MMTTY, WSJT, JT65-HF, RSK2K, and I've tried out several other programs.  
All work just fine.

What CAN help with ANY digital mode  is a better sound interface than 
the generic one that comes with your computer. The $30 Numark and $70 
Tascam USB boxes both produce about twice as many WSJT decodes as the 
sound cards built into my Thinkpads, and they're fairly good as laptop 
sound cards go.  The advantage of the Tascam is that it handles a wider 
range of levels than the Numark, so it's easier to interface with more 
radios, but they decode equally well.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Jim Brown
On 7/2/2012 10:50 AM, Robert G. Strickland wrote:
> Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had
> to choose, which one would seem preferable?

I'm mainly a contester, but I work some DX, digital modes on 160M, and 
all modes on 6M. I use the P3 a LOT more than I use the second RX.

For DX, you get the overview of the pileup, can often see who he's 
answering, and can think about where you want to put your signal.  For 
contesting, it helps fit yourself into a crowded band, see when someone 
is splattering or putting out garbage. For any operation, it's easy to 
quickly go to a band and check up to 200kHz of it for any signals. It's 
REALLY useful on bands like 10M and 6M, where signals appear for a few 
minutes and are gone due to E-skip. I keep the P3 full width (200 kHz) 
to look at 50.080 - 50.280.  I've worked a lot of guys who were there 
for only a few minutes and gone, very common with 2-hop E-skip.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - P3 or LP-PAN comparison

2012-07-02 Thread Ignacy
N8LP on his website has a very comprehensive and IMHO honest comparison of P3
and LP-PAN. 

In snapshot, if you are strained on cash, good in computers, and occasional
software problems are not an issue, use LP-PAN.

If reliability and ability to change parameters fast via buttons are more
important, P3 is good. 

I used SDR-IQ but eventually bought P3. 

Ignacy

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[Elecraft] K3 digipan-fldigi and mmtty?

2012-07-02 Thread kf4clo
  Frank-kf4clo
Hi everyone,I am running psk31 with my k3 hooked up line in to line out,line
out to line in-keying it with vox. I'm wondering if I can use this same set
up With Fldigi or mmtty without having to change the way I key the k3. I
like digipan but would like to try something elce if I don't have to turn
the whole station upsidedown. Thanks for any replys.
   Frank-kf4clo
   kf4...@hotmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Scott Manthe
Well, this is entirely subjective. Both can be useful, but I think the 
subRX would be the more useful addition.

73,
Scott, N9AA


On 7/2/12 1:50 PM, Robert G. Strickland wrote:
> I have never used either a panadapter or a sub-receiver, so I'm a newbie
> in this area. I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX and enter
> contests [less so in the past, more in the future]. I have a "small
> pistol" station with no allusions of being a band master. Question:
> which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and
> operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had
> to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions.
>
> ...robert


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Bill Conkling
I opted for the P3 first as i don't have a trained ear, but I can see what's  
on the screen.  Most will disagree but I still like viewing the band and  
seeing what is going on.

...bill nr4c 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Droid

-Original message-
From: "Robert G. Strickland" 
To: Elecraft 
Sent: Mon, Jul 2, 2012 17:50:55 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

I have never used either a panadapter or a sub-receiver, so I'm a newbie 
in this area. I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX and enter 
contests [less so in the past, more in the future]. I have a "small 
pistol" station with no allusions of being a band master. Question: 
which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and 
operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had 
to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions.

...robert
-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA

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[Elecraft] K3 - P3 or LP-PAN comparison

2012-07-02 Thread Robert G. Strickland
In another post I ask about sub-receiver versus panadapter. Here, a 
question about type of panadapter. My station occupies a very small 
space, and adding the P3 would strain the real estate. So, I've been 
looking at other panadapter possibilities that use the computer screen 
for display. What sort of useful comparisons can be made between the P3 
and the LP-Pan box/software? Are there any other panadapter options that 
I should consider? Thanks for any and all opinions.

...robert
-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA

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[Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver

2012-07-02 Thread Robert G. Strickland
I have never used either a panadapter or a sub-receiver, so I'm a newbie 
in this area. I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX and enter 
contests [less so in the past, more in the future]. I have a "small 
pistol" station with no allusions of being a band master. Question: 
which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and 
operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had 
to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions.

...robert
-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery charger

2012-07-02 Thread Edward R. Cole
Not exactly sure what "balancing" means but suspect this is the same 
as equalizing charge.  I have used solar charge controllers at remote 
sites for two panels charging two batteries and do not recall any 
equalizing function in them.  The Buddipole appears to be a simple 
current regulator.  It may be adequate for your situation?

Solar regulators are widely available, just google them.  Prices 
about $150+ (from memory - may be higher now days).


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
"Kits made by KL7UW" http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm
==
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[Elecraft] Elecraft email outage

2012-07-02 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi all,

I was unable to read email for the past three days. I understand that Eric and 
others have been off-line as well. Looks like the server is back, but it'll 
take awhile for us to get caught up. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR


http://www.elecraft.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread PTA_ABD
Had the same experiences with the keyer paddle KXPD3 ... a bit too much tension 
( which is not adjustable except by surgery ) and the spacing is kinda tricky ( 
wound up having it wider than I like ). I also like a slightly wider paddle 
footprint ( someone suggested gluing/sticking something on them ). For FD, I 
didn't care for the way I sounded with it, so I reverted to the shack paddle, 
with great relief.  I'm not exactly thrilled with it, considering the price, 
but I intend to hang onto it: for ultra portable, I can slow down.

And for FD, it worked very well; contacts from all over, both coasts  
forgot it was a "QRP rig" ... plays "bigger".

And I guess I'll have to take my IC7000 on my western trip  ( yeah, and the 
manual too ... three years and I don't rememmer nuttin' ... can do a K3 or KX3 
blindfolded ). Too bad the KX3 amp wasn't available

Paul WB2ABD


Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 10:12:02 -0500
From: Bill Gerth 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions
To: Sid Leben 
Cc: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Message-ID: <6bc2aa78-ddab-450e-8e16-e4b0434b2...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

Sid,

Regarding your KXPD3, I have had similar experiences. I, too, prefer  
small gap spacing and also had the same experiences that you did  
regarding a string of dits or dahs.  I may be imagining this, but I  
think it may have to do with thermal expansion / contraction of the  
metal components.  I think I can correlate paddle performance at tight  
gap spacing with temperature changes.  My shack tends to cool off  
overnight when my equipment is off and the HVAC gets ahead of the heat  
load.  Then during the day it heats up.  I should probably get out my  
feeler gauges and prove or disprove my theory.  But, I now have a gap  
setting that works 24/7.  It is a bit wider than I'd like, but I have  
adapted easily and I really like the KXPD3.

When you're outdoors this afternoon, maybe you can detect the same  
thermal effects that I experienced.

Good luck and stay cool!

73,

BILL GERTH, W4RK
Jefferson City, MO
First Licensed 1954
CWOPS #459
KX3 (S/N 112)

On Jul 2, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Sid Leben wrote:

> I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.   
> Similar to my K3, but not the same..
> I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
> As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I  
> invoke "NR" the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come,  
> as there are no levels to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the  
> default Threshold of 7, is not sufficient.  I will try lower levels  
> to stop the overload from strong stations.
> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to  
> ring when peaked in mode II.
>
> XPD3 paddle.  Mechanically a very nice match to the rig.  I prefer a  
> tight (little movement ) paddle. I adjusted the paddles until  
> constant contact & then backed off, then tightened.  Still more  
> movement then I like, but I can acclimate.  Sometimes in the middle  
> of a transmission, I would get a string of dits or dahs, generally  
> happens when settings too tight.  I have opened the settings more,  
> inducing more travel, & I still get the "stuck" condition.  I am  
> wondering if this is a mechanical problem with the key, or a  
> software pblm with the encoder circuit 
>
> I will take it portable this afternoon & give it a workout.  I would  
> appreciate comments.
>
> Sid
> KC2EE
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals

2012-07-02 Thread NH7RO
Hi Mike; I had the same problem a number of months ago and it was so
frustrating I finally removed the sub rcvr and sent it off to Aptos.  The
guys there were very helpful as always but it came back with a perfectly
clean bill of health as they could find nothing wrong with it.

This was after I had checked and rechecked all of the cabling, configured
all the antenna settings about a million times and pulled every last hair
out of my head.  Oh, yes, all the filter settings were fine from the get-go.

When I reinstalled it after coming back from Elecraft the problem was still
there; the sub was still virtually dead as far as the signals were (the
audio level was always fine, just sounded like someone had switched in a
-20db attenuator everytime I went with the SUB on.

I believe what finally fixed it was a total reloading of the firmware and a
recalibration of the VCO (IIRC).

I also set every band's antenna selection regardless of whether or not the
band was IN or OUT to MAIN (making sure that it stayed set on MAIN every
time I checked the settings).

Finally, just when I was about to throw in the towel, the SUB came back to
life!  While I'm not 100% sure I do believe it was one of the calibrations I
performed (VCO calibtration or DSP utility) that did the trick in the nick
of time.

I have been a very happy camper ever since (despite not really knowing what
caused the snafu in the first place; it suddenly went deaf while I was
operating split and chasing a DX pileup...and oops!) and now I appreciate
this little rig more than ever.  I'm still scratching my head over it all
but unless it happens again I may never really know the hows and whys...

Reminds me of the old saying, "You never miss your signals until your
sub-receiver dies!"

Hope you get it going again right away and I suggest redoing ALL the
calibrations required when the sub is first installed---that may very well
bring it back to life.  Best of luck to you (and I know just how you feel).

73,  Jeff   NH7RO

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-sub-receiver-no-signals-tp7558455p7558488.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread Donald Butler
I have the same issues with my KXPD3.  With maybe 100-125 CW qsos logged
using the KX3 and KXPD3 I have now accepted the fact that I must
compromise and use a more coarse paddle adjustment.  I have also had
issues with random dropping of the first "dah", which is further
complicated when a "dah" is supposed to break up a string of "dits" as
it does in iambic keying.  I initially thought I had it fixed after
cleaning the KXPD3 contacts with Deoxit and further adjustments, but the
problem still surfaces occasionally.  My sending becomes a bit
embarrasing at times as a result.  (not to imply that I have a "great"
fist, which I do not)  BUT, in my mind, the advantages of having the
KXPD3 conveniently attached to the rig far outweigh these minor
inconveniences.  I bought my KX3 for portable operation, and am willing
to accept the many compromises associated with that.

Another minor KXPD3 issue  The way the paddles themselves are
machined there are sharp right angle margins adjacent to  all of the
finger and thumb contact areas.  If those edges were rounded and
smoothed moderately they would be much more comfortable to use .. In my
hands at least.

Don, N5LZ
KX3 S/N 125

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill Gerth
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 9:12 AM
To: Sid Leben
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions


Sid,

Regarding your KXPD3, I have had similar experiences. I, too, prefer  
small gap spacing and also had the same experiences that you did  
regarding a string of dits or dahs.  I may be imagining this, but I  
think it may have to do with thermal expansion / contraction of the  
metal components.  I think I can correlate paddle performance at tight  
gap spacing with temperature changes.  My shack tends to cool off  
overnight when my equipment is off and the HVAC gets ahead of the heat  
load.  Then during the day it heats up.  I should probably get out my  
feeler gauges and prove or disprove my theory.  But, I now have a gap  
setting that works 24/7.  It is a bit wider than I'd like, but I have  
adapted easily and I really like the KXPD3.

When you're outdoors this afternoon, maybe you can detect the same  
thermal effects that I experienced.

Good luck and stay cool!

73,

BILL GERTH, W4RK
Jefferson City, MO
First Licensed 1954
CWOPS #459
KX3 (S/N 112)

On Jul 2, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Sid Leben wrote:

> I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.   
> Similar to my K3, but not the same..
> I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
> As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I
> invoke "NR" the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come,  
> as there are no levels to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the  
> default Threshold of 7, is not sufficient.  I will try lower levels  
> to stop the overload from strong stations.
> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to  
> ring when peaked in mode II.
>
> XPD3 paddle.  Mechanically a very nice match to the rig.  I prefer a
> tight (little movement ) paddle. I adjusted the paddles until  
> constant contact & then backed off, then tightened.  Still more  
> movement then I like, but I can acclimate.  Sometimes in the middle  
> of a transmission, I would get a string of dits or dahs, generally  
> happens when settings too tight.  I have opened the settings more,  
> inducing more travel, & I still get the "stuck" condition.  I am  
> wondering if this is a mechanical problem with the key, or a  
> software pblm with the encoder circuit 
>
> I will take it portable this afternoon & give it a workout.  I would
> appreciate comments.
>
> Sid
> KC2EE
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread nr4c
If you read the KX3 Errata sheet (should have been supplied with the 
radio) on the web site, you'll note that several functions described in 
the manual are not availble as yet.  And "NR" is among those.

And, I agree with you on the paddles.  Neat, but I can't get them 
adjusted like I would normally adjust my HEXKEY, tight.  It also seems 
that they have more travel now then a week or so ago when I last 
adjusted them.  I have resisted the temptation to disassemble and make 
the spring tighter or find a way to replace it with magnets.  Until I 
see inside, I can't really make the decision, but I'm really leaning 
toward using magnets to provide the 'feel'.  I've done this with others 
including a "AZQRP Scorpion".

...bill  nr4c


On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 07:51:49 -0700, Sid Leben wrote:
> I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.
> Similar to my K3, but not the same..
> I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
> As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I
> invoke "NR" the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come, as
> there are no levels to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the
> default Threshold of 7, is not sufficient.  I will try lower levels 
> to
> stop the overload from strong stations.
> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to
> ring when peaked in mode II.
>
> XPD3 paddle.  Mechanically a very nice match to the rig.  I prefer a
> tight (little movement ) paddle. I adjusted the paddles until 
> constant
> contact & then backed off, then tightened.  Still more movement then 
> I
> like, but I can acclimate.  Sometimes in the middle of a 
> transmission,
> I would get a string of dits or dahs, generally happens when settings
> too tight.  I have opened the settings more, inducing more travel, & 
> I
> still get the "stuck" condition.  I am wondering if this is a
> mechanical problem with the key, or a software pblm with the encoder
> circuit 
>
> I will take it portable this afternoon & give it a workout.  I would
> appreciate comments.
>
> Sid
> KC2EE
>
>
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[Elecraft] Looking for a KAT100

2012-07-02 Thread Stephen Roberts
Anyone have a built or kit they want to sell?

Steve



---
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT









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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Sid,

If you read the errata you will find that NR is not yet implemented.

"some form of DSP installed" -- yes, the KX3 is most *all* DSP - all the 
modulation, demodulation and filtering is in DSP code (the "number soup" 
as some would say).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/2/2012 10:51 AM, Sid Leben wrote:
> I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.  Similar to my 
> K3, but not the same..
> I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
> As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I invoke "NR" 
> the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come, as there are no levels 
> to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the default Threshold of 7, is not 
> sufficient.  I will try lower levels to stop the overload from strong 
> stations.
> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to ring when 
> peaked in mode II.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread Lyle Johnson
Hello Sid!

> ...As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I invoke 
> "NR" the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come, as there are no 
> levels to adjust as in the K3.

The radio is entirely based on digital signal processing (DSP).  I 
understand that many people mean "automotaic filtering of some sort" 
when they use the term DSP.  Those features -- noise reduction and 
automatic notch -- are actively being worked on as I write this.

>   The AGC left at the default Threshold of 7, is not sufficient.  I will try 
> lower levels to stop the overload from strong stations.

Or turn the AF Gain down.  What many people try to do is use the 
internal speaker and crank up the AF Gain.  With a high AGC threshold, 
this means a strong signal will overload the audio chain.  If the gain 
is set so that a very strong signal doe snot overload, then a high AGC 
setting may be appropriate.  It all depends on the ambient acoustic 
environment, the "band noise" at the moment, the efficiency of the audio 
transducer (internal speaker, headphones, external amplified speaker(s), 
etc) and your hearing comfort level.  In general, you want the AGC to 
cut in above the band noise -- how much above depends on a lot of things 
and is usually dominated by your personal preferences.  I usually have 
the AGC Threshold in my KX3 set to 5.

> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to ring when 
> peaked in mode II.
The APF will ring a bit by design.  It is mostly used for helping to 
copy weak (that is, near the noise level, might be S6!) CW signals at 
slow to moderate keying speeds.  It is not the appropriate filter for 
fast CW, or for signals with reasonable S/N.  The regular filtering 
(accessed by turning the PBT control) is appropriate for the latter cases.

I see you've had good comments on the KXPD3.

Enjoy your new radio, and thank you for your observations!

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread JP O'Connor
Yes, there is extensive DSP in this radio. However, the NR is not yet
implemented. Check the user manual errata (KX3 Owner's Manual Errata Rev
B4-1 - June 1, 2012) on the Elecraft web site for details on firmware
enhancements still to come. For example, the NB, though implemented can
only be set on or off right now - levels will be provided later - and some
other features are also on the "to do" list.

When planning to use APF, be sure to first turn on CWT, then tune
the signal as close to the center of the indicator as is reasonably
possible (it doesn't have to be exact, however), then SPOT the signal, then
set a fairly narrow bandwidth, then turn on APF. Experiment with it! It is
pretty cool!

72/73 de JP WF4Z

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 10:51 AM, Sid Leben  wrote:

> I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.  Similar to
> my K3, but not the same..
> I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
> As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I invoke
> "NR" the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come, as there are no
> levels to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the default Threshold of 7,
> is not sufficient.  I will try lower levels to stop the overload from
> strong stations.
> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to ring
> when peaked in mode II.
>
> XPD3 paddle.  Mechanically a very nice match to the rig.  I prefer a tight
> (little movement ) paddle. I adjusted the paddles until constant contact &
> then backed off, then tightened.  Still more movement then I like, but I
> can acclimate.  Sometimes in the middle of a transmission, I would get a
> string of dits or dahs, generally happens when settings too tight.  I have
> opened the settings more, inducing more travel, & I still get the "stuck"
> condition.  I am wondering if this is a mechanical problem with the key, or
> a software pblm with the encoder circuit 
>
> I will take it portable this afternoon & give it a workout.  I would
> appreciate comments.
>
> Sid
> KC2EE
>
>
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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[Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals solved!

2012-07-02 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
There was a config error in the Sub filter setup.  I have a 2.7 filter 
in slot 2 and 400 in slot 4. Those were setup correctly.  The Sub also 
thought I had a 2.7 in FL1. Changed that and the receiver came to life.

Obviously the other issue was that I had decided, for reasons still 
unknown to me today, to install the input using the AUX BNC.

Thanks for the suggestions and hints!

We are fortunate to have some very smart helpful folks on the reflector!

Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net

On 7/2/2012 8:45 AM, mikefur...@att.net wrote:
>
>
>
> Also check the external cable to the radio. When I replaced my FT1000 with a
> K3 (best move in the ham shack ever ... but I gotta say the FT1000 served me
> well for 20 years), the the short section of cable from the external rx
> antenna switch box to the K3 went bad. I took the K3 apart first thinking I
> did not plug something in or an internal cable was not correctly seated.
>
> 73, Mike WA5POK
>
> -Original Message-
> From: nr4c
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 6:52 AM
> To: W0MU Mike Fatchett
> Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals
>
> I saw that someone else suggested checking all the cabling.  Good idea.
> Also, press the "A>B" switch twice quickly (should see "A>B ALL" in VFO
> B window) to make sure both main and sub are on same freq, filters etc.
>
> Oh, yeah, lyou DID turn ON the Sub-rec'ver.  Didn't you?
>
> Let's see, check internal cabling, Antenna, settings.  Oh, how is your
> RF/AF gain controls set up.  I have separate RF gains, but the AF gains
> are set up so that the little knob is volume, and the larger one is a
> fader.  How are your set up?
>
> ./...bill  nr4c
> On Sun, 01 Jul 2012 22:49:36 -0600, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
>> The 2nd receiver was hooked up to the bnc aux connector.  I had to
>> change that.  However still no signals.  I have tried every
>> combination of antennas etc.
>>
>> I suspect maybe there was an issue when I uploaded the new firmware.
>>
>>
>> Mike W0MU
>>
>> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>>
>> On 7/1/2012 9:33 PM, Bill Conkling wrote:
>>> Check antenna wiring, and make sure you have selected an antenna for
>>> the
>>> SUB.
>>>
>>> ...bill  nr4c
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: W0MU Mike Fatchett [mailto:w...@w0mu.com]
>>> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 10:32 PM
>>> To: Elecraft Reflector
>>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals
>>>
>>> I installed this 2nd receiver quite some time ago.  I probably never
>>> checked but i hear background noise in the sub receiver but no
>>> signals.
>>> I suspect this is something stupid, can someone point me in a
>>> direction.
>>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 internal battery charger

2012-07-02 Thread JP O'Connor
I went ahead and ordered the internal charger so that I have the clock and
so that I can keep a set of Eneloop XX batteries healthy inside the radio
for ultralight operations. I, too, am interested in solar charging of my
LiFePO4 packs.

If one feeds raw solar panel power to a battery, then things get "exciting"
to a degree, depending on what kind of battery is involved. I will defer to
those who have actual field experience as to when that is or is not
advisable.

BuddiPole now offers a solar charge controller for LiFePO4 battery packs.
It is $45.00 and charges the entire pack but is not a balancing charger. It
is small and compact for field use. One will want to periodically test and
balance their packs with a balancing charger.
http://www.buddipole.com/sobaco.html

An untested idea of mine (though I'm certainly not the first person to
think of it) is to feed a standard balancing charger with power from a
solar panel - as long as there is sufficient current and the voltage ranges
are compatible - or using a DC-to-DC device between the panel and
charger to maintain a steady voltage into the balancing charger. This is
certainly more moving parts and more weight. Again, I will defer to those
with actual field experience. Is this efficient? Is it practical? Has
anyone done this already and can report findings?

I suspect that for both the internal NiMh cells and the external 4SxP
LiFePO4 packs, a simple charger for field use and a smart charger for bench
use, will provide the best of both worlds.

Food for thought... and experimentation!

72/73 de JP WF4Z



On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:38 AM, Holger Schurig wrote:

> I also wondered about the NiMH stuff, now that LiFePO4 is affordable.
> Currently I'd like to go with an external LiFePO4 pack as well. So
> I'll have no clock in KX3 :-/
>
> One thing that stuck me (not that it is overly important for me ...):
> I read once that somebody wrote "LiPo isn't trail friendly, you can't
> charge them easily from a solar pad, lead-acid and NiMH are more
> friendly to the varying nature of sun charging. Now, LiFePO4 is a very
> different LiPo, does anybody know if that statement is true for them
> as well?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread Bill Gerth
Sid,

Regarding your KXPD3, I have had similar experiences. I, too, prefer  
small gap spacing and also had the same experiences that you did  
regarding a string of dits or dahs.  I may be imagining this, but I  
think it may have to do with thermal expansion / contraction of the  
metal components.  I think I can correlate paddle performance at tight  
gap spacing with temperature changes.  My shack tends to cool off  
overnight when my equipment is off and the HVAC gets ahead of the heat  
load.  Then during the day it heats up.  I should probably get out my  
feeler gauges and prove or disprove my theory.  But, I now have a gap  
setting that works 24/7.  It is a bit wider than I'd like, but I have  
adapted easily and I really like the KXPD3.

When you're outdoors this afternoon, maybe you can detect the same  
thermal effects that I experienced.

Good luck and stay cool!

73,

BILL GERTH, W4RK
Jefferson City, MO
First Licensed 1954
CWOPS #459
KX3 (S/N 112)

On Jul 2, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Sid Leben wrote:

> I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.   
> Similar to my K3, but not the same..
> I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
> As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I  
> invoke "NR" the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come,  
> as there are no levels to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the  
> default Threshold of 7, is not sufficient.  I will try lower levels  
> to stop the overload from strong stations.
> I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to  
> ring when peaked in mode II.
>
> XPD3 paddle.  Mechanically a very nice match to the rig.  I prefer a  
> tight (little movement ) paddle. I adjusted the paddles until  
> constant contact & then backed off, then tightened.  Still more  
> movement then I like, but I can acclimate.  Sometimes in the middle  
> of a transmission, I would get a string of dits or dahs, generally  
> happens when settings too tight.  I have opened the settings more,  
> inducing more travel, & I still get the "stuck" condition.  I am  
> wondering if this is a mechanical problem with the key, or a  
> software pblm with the encoder circuit 
>
> I will take it portable this afternoon & give it a workout.  I would  
> appreciate comments.
>
> Sid
> KC2EE
>
>
> __
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[Elecraft] KX1 ATU low power

2012-07-02 Thread AC8JW
Just finished the ATU module for the KX1.  Relays all work and swr into the
DL1 is r 1.0 on all bands.  Power output though is limited to about 2 watts
per the display.   Minus the the ATU, the W1 says I am getting 3 watts into
the DL1 on all bands except 80M where it is 4 watts.   Regulated bench power
supply set at 12 volts.  I guess that I would expect better concurrence
between the W1 and the ATU.  So not sure which one is off.  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Macro query

2012-07-02 Thread Stewart
Hi Mike,
I now have my macro working, but I don't know why.

The only difference is that instead of assigning to M1H SET,
I followed your example and assigned it to M1T SET.

It would appear that there is some conflict between a function key Hold
and a function that uses Hold. Assigning to Tap makes it work.

Very strange...

Thanks for your help.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Mon, 2 Jul 2012 07:42:03 -0700 (PDT), Mike K2MK wrote:
> Hi Stewart,
>
> Your macro works here. You probably missed one step. First I entered you
> macro in the K3 Utility on the Macro tab. I pressed the Edit Macros button
> and typed it into the field for Macro 8. Next I hit the button labeled
> "Write Macros 1-8 to K3". Then I hit Save and quit the Utility program.
>
> After that I went to the K3 and brought up CONFIG:MACRO and hit the 8
> button. The lower display then showed "MACRO 8". I tapped the M4 button on
> my K3 in order to save the macro to that button. The lower display then
> briefly displayed M4T SET. That's it. My K3 goes into tune (and I suppose
> does the other things in your macro) when I tap my M4 button.
>
> 73,
> Mike K2MK
>
>
> Stewart@twinwood wrote
>>
>> The following macro runs OK from the K3 Utility program,
>> but not when assigned to a function key - why ?
>>
>> TUNEONMN019;MP001;MN255;SWH16;
>>
>> 73
>> Stewart G3RXQ
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Macro-query-tp7558469p7558474.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KX3 Questions

2012-07-02 Thread Sid Leben
I received my KX3 a few days ago & we are getting acquainted.  Similar to my 
K3, but not the same..
I downloaded the newest Beta, 1.06.
As I understand it, there is some form of DSP installed.  When I invoke "NR" 
the screen reads "tbd"  I assume that more is to come, as there are no levels 
to adjust as in the K3.  The AGC left at the default Threshold of 7, is not 
sufficient.  I will try lower levels to stop the overload from strong stations.
I am trying to use the APF mode.  A little complex, but it tends to ring when 
peaked in mode II.

XPD3 paddle.  Mechanically a very nice match to the rig.  I prefer a tight 
(little movement ) paddle. I adjusted the paddles until constant contact & then 
backed off, then tightened.  Still more movement then I like, but I can 
acclimate.  Sometimes in the middle of a transmission, I would get a string of 
dits or dahs, generally happens when settings too tight.  I have opened the 
settings more, inducing more travel, & I still get the "stuck" condition.  I am 
wondering if this is a mechanical problem with the key, or a software pblm with 
the encoder circuit 

I will take it portable this afternoon & give it a workout.  I would appreciate 
comments.

Sid
KC2EE


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[Elecraft] Fw: K3 sub receiver no signals

2012-07-02 Thread mikefurrey




Also check the external cable to the radio. When I replaced my FT1000 with a
K3 (best move in the ham shack ever ... but I gotta say the FT1000 served me
well for 20 years), the the short section of cable from the external rx
antenna switch box to the K3 went bad. I took the K3 apart first thinking I
did not plug something in or an internal cable was not correctly seated.

73, Mike WA5POK

-Original Message- 
From: nr4c
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 6:52 AM
To: W0MU Mike Fatchett
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals

I saw that someone else suggested checking all the cabling.  Good idea.
Also, press the "A>B" switch twice quickly (should see "A>B ALL" in VFO
B window) to make sure both main and sub are on same freq, filters etc.

Oh, yeah, lyou DID turn ON the Sub-rec'ver.  Didn't you?

Let's see, check internal cabling, Antenna, settings.  Oh, how is your
RF/AF gain controls set up.  I have separate RF gains, but the AF gains
are set up so that the little knob is volume, and the larger one is a
fader.  How are your set up?

./...bill  nr4c
On Sun, 01 Jul 2012 22:49:36 -0600, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
> The 2nd receiver was hooked up to the bnc aux connector.  I had to
> change that.  However still no signals.  I have tried every
> combination of antennas etc.
>
> I suspect maybe there was an issue when I uploaded the new firmware.
>
>
> Mike W0MU
>
> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>
> On 7/1/2012 9:33 PM, Bill Conkling wrote:
>> Check antenna wiring, and make sure you have selected an antenna for
>> the
>> SUB.
>>
>> ...bill  nr4c
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: W0MU Mike Fatchett [mailto:w...@w0mu.com]
>> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 10:32 PM
>> To: Elecraft Reflector
>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals
>>
>> I installed this 2nd receiver quite some time ago.  I probably never
>> checked but i hear background noise in the sub receiver but no
>> signals.
>> I suspect this is something stupid, can someone point me in a
>> direction.
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Macro query

2012-07-02 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Stewart,

Your macro works here. You probably missed one step. First I entered you
macro in the K3 Utility on the Macro tab. I pressed the Edit Macros button
and typed it into the field for Macro 8. Next I hit the button labeled
"Write Macros 1-8 to K3". Then I hit Save and quit the Utility program.

After that I went to the K3 and brought up CONFIG:MACRO and hit the 8
button. The lower display then showed "MACRO 8". I tapped the M4 button on
my K3 in order to save the macro to that button. The lower display then
briefly displayed M4T SET. That's it. My K3 goes into tune (and I suppose
does the other things in your macro) when I tap my M4 button.

73,
Mike K2MK


Stewart@twinwood wrote
> 
> The following macro runs OK from the K3 Utility program,
> but not when assigned to a function key - why ?
> 
> TUNEONMN019;MP001;MN255;SWH16;
> 
> 73
> Stewart G3RXQ
> 


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Another way to access APF

2012-07-02 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Thread Closed - due to drift into unfriendly interchange.

Gentlemen - when a discussion degrades into personal accusations about 
who did, or did not say something, you are well outside of the list 
guidelines. It is not appropriate on this list to be rude or to argue in 
this manner.  Is also inconsiderate of the others who read this list.

In general, please keep the tone of tone of your postings focused on a 
friendly and open discussion. It is not necessary to -win- the argument 
or prove the other person wrong. If you feel the need to do that, please 
take the discussion elsewhere.

Also, it is entirely appropriate to post desires and suggestions about 
features on our products, pro and con. Please limit disagreements to 
cordial discussions of these items, and not a discussion on if the 
question or suggestion was appropriate.

Its also not necessary to defend us or pur products. We're pretty thick 
skinned. While we can't implement everyhting people ask for, due to both 
engineering time and also firmware space available, we do get a lot of 
good future ideas from the list.

73,

Eric  WA6HHQ
List Moderator and playground monitor;-)
---
www.elecraft.com

On 7/1/2012 4:18 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
> I'm not inventing things you said ... merely restating your desire to
> have separate dedicated "tap" switches for APF. ...

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals

2012-07-02 Thread nr4c
I saw that someone else suggested checking all the cabling.  Good idea. 
Also, press the "A>B" switch twice quickly (should see "A>B ALL" in VFO 
B window) to make sure both main and sub are on same freq, filters etc.

Oh, yeah, lyou DID turn ON the Sub-rec'ver.  Didn't you?

Let's see, check internal cabling, Antenna, settings.  Oh, how is your 
RF/AF gain controls set up.  I have separate RF gains, but the AF gains 
are set up so that the little knob is volume, and the larger one is a 
fader.  How are your set up?

./...bill  nr4c
On Sun, 01 Jul 2012 22:49:36 -0600, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:
> The 2nd receiver was hooked up to the bnc aux connector.  I had to
> change that.  However still no signals.  I have tried every
> combination of antennas etc.
>
> I suspect maybe there was an issue when I uploaded the new firmware.
>
>
> Mike W0MU
>
> W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net
>
> On 7/1/2012 9:33 PM, Bill Conkling wrote:
>> Check antenna wiring, and make sure you have selected an antenna for 
>> the
>> SUB.
>>
>> ...bill  nr4c
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: W0MU Mike Fatchett [mailto:w...@w0mu.com]
>> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 10:32 PM
>> To: Elecraft Reflector
>> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals
>>
>> I installed this 2nd receiver quite some time ago.  I probably never
>> checked but i hear background noise in the sub receiver but no 
>> signals.
>> I suspect this is something stupid, can someone point me in a 
>> direction.
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 NB LEVEL question

2012-07-02 Thread Don Wilhelm
Stan,

The Noise Blanker is only effective on fast rise time noise pulses - 
like automotive ignition noise.  It will do nothing to reduce noises 
like atmospheric noise or powerline noise.

If you want to test it, remove the antenna, turn on the preamp and tap a 
screwdriver on Q22.  You will have to differentiate between the bursts 
of atmospheric noise  (the screwdriver is acting as a short antenna) and 
the "clicks".  The NB should kill the clicks, but will not change the 
atmospheric noise.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/2/2012 1:11 AM, ae7...@gmail.com wrote:
> Don thanks so much for the quick reply.
> The 4 different "modes" seem to be the same with NB1 or NB2.
> Also if I have the NB OFF.
>
> Thanks again.
> Stan AE7UT
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-NB-LEVEL-question-tp7558461p7558465.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals

2012-07-02 Thread Cady, Fred
Hi Mike,
Is it dead-dead or do you get audio noise when turning the audio/rf
gain. If it is dead-dead it might be the l-mix-r setting to a-a or
something other than a-b.
Also, if you have SPKRS=2 and are listening with the internal speaker
you get the main audio only.
Hope you find it.
Cheers,
Fred KE7X
 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W0MU Mike
Fatchett
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 10:50 PM
To: Bill Conkling
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals

The 2nd receiver was hooked up to the bnc aux connector.  I had to
change that.  However still no signals.  I have tried every combination
of antennas etc.

I suspect maybe there was an issue when I uploaded the new firmware.


Mike W0MU

W0MU-1 CC Cluster w0mu.net

On 7/1/2012 9:33 PM, Bill Conkling wrote:
> Check antenna wiring, and make sure you have selected an antenna for 
> the SUB.
>
> ...bill  nr4c
>
> -Original Message-
> From: W0MU Mike Fatchett [mailto:w...@w0mu.com]
> Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 10:32 PM
> To: Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals
>
> I installed this 2nd receiver quite some time ago.  I probably never 
> checked but i hear background noise in the sub receiver but no
signals.
> I suspect this is something stupid, can someone point me in a
direction.
>


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[Elecraft] K3 Macro query

2012-07-02 Thread Stewart
The following macro runs OK from the K3 Utility program,
but not when assigned to a function key - why ?

TUNEONMN019;MP001;MN255;SWH16;

73
Stewart G3RXQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 sub receiver no signals

2012-07-02 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Mike,

This question comes up quite often on the reflector and it is usually
incorrect antenna selection as others have commented. But there are also
several other things that could be amiss. You could have the RF gain for the
sub turned down. It's the outer ring on the RF gain knob. Assuming that you
are using headphones you should also check to see how you have the audio
gain knobs set up. They can be configured so that the outer AF knob is a sub
volume control or configured so that it is a left/right balance control.
Another thought is that you have the sub RX filters configured incorrectly.
You could also have the sub set up in diversity mode. In diversity you'll be
listening to VFO A in both ears regardless of what is displayed in VFO B.
The tip off is a blinking decimal point (the right decimal point) in the VFO
A display.

73,
Mike K2MK



w0mu wrote
> 
> I installed this 2nd receiver quite some time ago.  I probably never 
> checked but i hear background noise in the sub receiver but no signals.  
> I suspect this is something stupid, can someone point me in a direction.
> 
> -- 
> Mike W0MU
> 


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