Re: [Elecraft] Power Settings for no AGC in Elecraft Radios

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Why would you want to "avoid" level control in the transmitter?  What issue
do you avoid by doing that?  73, Guy.

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 8:46 PM, John  wrote:

> All (especially Don),
>
> I have heard it explained on this reflector the Elecraft power control
> loop is such that the usual advice to...
>
>"max out the power setting and adjust the audio level input to avoid
> AGC action"
>
> ...is not appropriate for the K2 and, I suppose, the K3.
>
> I accept this, but don't quite understand the reasoning.  Don can you
> please explain the key differences between a rig, such as my Icom 746,
> and the K2 that mandate this?
>
> Are there other radio brands with power control loops like Elecraft
> products?
>
> Thanks.
>
> John, kx4o
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[Elecraft] P3 - RTTY, PSK31 & CW on P3 display

[giulian...@virgilio.it]

When?

Giuliano I0cg

K1, K3+P3

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - far right S meter led lights erratically

[K7MDL]

I forget which one it is but it either the N0SS mod here
http://n0ss.net/k2_rit-split_led_mod_10.pdf

or 

K6XX mod here
http://www.wb3aal.com/Pages/K6XX/K6XXCWIndicatorKit.htm

I think it is the K6XX one, just guessing.  You should have the paperwork
there though.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - far right S meter led lights erratically

[K7MDL]

It has a small board inside the front panel that takes over that LED and
tells you when you have tuned 600Hz or so for easier CW tuning.  #2633 was
owned by me previously and I had installed a mod that did that.  The
paperwork should be included in the stack of manuals, just a small document.

- Mike, K7MDL

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 voice recorder

[Wayne Burdick]

This is not implemented yet (see errata sheet that came with the  
owner's manual).

tnx
Wayne


On Jul 5, 2012, at 7:56 PM, Tony Estep wrote:

> I'm having a great time figuring out all the ins and outs of my KX3.  
> One
> thing I haven't figured out is how to work the voice recorder. The  
> manual
> sez that it works the same as the CW recorder: hold REC, then select  
> MSG 1
> or MSG 2 and record. The CW recorder works as expected, but when I  
> put the
> KX3 in a voice mode (USB, LSB or AM) and hold REC, I get N/A. I  
> haven't
> figured out what I'm doing wrong. Anybody know?
>
> Thanks, Tony KT0NY
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 voice recorder

[Bill Conkling]

Read the ERRATA sheet.  It isn't implemented yet!

...bill nr4c 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Droid

-Original message-
From: Tony Estep 
To: Elecraft 
Sent: Fri, Jul 6, 2012 02:56:40 GMT+00:00
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 voice recorder

I'm having a great time figuring out all the ins and outs of my KX3. One
thing I haven't figured out is how to work the voice recorder. The manual
sez that it works the same as the CW recorder: hold REC, then select MSG 1
or MSG 2 and record. The CW recorder works as expected, but when I put the
KX3 in a voice mode (USB, LSB or AM) and hold REC, I get N/A. I haven't
figured out what I'm doing wrong. Anybody know?

Thanks, Tony KT0NY



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 voice recorder

[Robert Galambos]

it has yet to be implemented within the firmware.

you can see what is and what is still to be done, on the elecraft website



On 12-07-05 10:56 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
> I'm having a great time figuring out all the ins and outs of my KX3. One
> thing I haven't figured out is how to work the voice recorder. The manual
> sez that it works the same as the CW recorder: hold REC, then select MSG 1
> or MSG 2 and record. The CW recorder works as expected, but when I put the
> KX3 in a voice mode (USB, LSB or AM) and hold REC, I get N/A. I haven't
> figured out what I'm doing wrong. Anybody know?
>
> Thanks, Tony KT0NY
>
>
>


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[Elecraft] KX3 voice recorder

[Tony Estep]

I'm having a great time figuring out all the ins and outs of my KX3. One
thing I haven't figured out is how to work the voice recorder. The manual
sez that it works the same as the CW recorder: hold REC, then select MSG 1
or MSG 2 and record. The CW recorder works as expected, but when I put the
KX3 in a voice mode (USB, LSB or AM) and hold REC, I get N/A. I haven't
figured out what I'm doing wrong. Anybody know?

Thanks, Tony KT0NY



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[Elecraft] Odd realization of KX3

[Bill Conkling]

Tonite, I took my KX3 to code class since it has a better sounding audio
than my usual square-wave keyers.  To prevent any mishaps, I set the ACC2
setting to HI-TXinhibit before I left home.  It seemed to work ok pressing
the XMIT button.

When I got the class, I verified the "TX" was blinking.  I hooked up the
paddles, and...  No sidetone!  Set ACC2 back to "ON" so I could key the
amp tomorrow, and all was normal again.  We used the radio as a keyer 'till
the AA Alkalines finally gave up.   I then switched to my NiMH pack and
finished the night.

I really wasn't expecting the TX INHIBIT to act this way.  I have to get
used to the fact that this is not a baby K3.  It has a personality all it's
own, and generally I like it.  I really need to get with Rose, however and
order a "Dust Cover" for my K3.  It's not getting used much since the KX3
arrived.

This weekend, my club is having a Special Event in Colonial Williamsburg,
and I hope to take the KX3 and the THP-50B Amp and work some of the
stations.  Look for us Saturday after 10:00 AM on 40M near 7.265 (+/- 5).
Later we will prob switch to 20M around 14.265.  Call is K4RC, and we will
QSL.  Cert offered for working all three of our events, in May, July and
October.

...bill nr4c

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[Elecraft] KX3 Acc2 Port

[Sid Leben]

I must have missed an Errata sheet, mentioning the PTT function wiring change.  
The wiring should be Sleeve – Ring, NOT slv/tip.  I'd like to thank 
Dale/Elecraft for setting me straight.
I spent a lot of time trying to get the KX3 to trigger an external Amp..  It 
works now.

Thanks to Dale & all the people at Elecraft;;

Sid
KC2EE
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Re: [Elecraft] $9.99 Headset

[Jim Brown]

On 7/5/2012 2:22 PM, Dave Hachadorian wrote:
> I forgot to bring my CM-500 Headset up to the summer cabin, but
> spotted this one today for $9.99 with free shipping:

Headsets are something that you've got to try on.  Several months ago I 
went to Fry's looking for some cheap headsets to use with Skype. There 
were nearly a dozen in the $10 - $20 range, and I bought a small 
sampling of the cheapies that looked promising. All produced acceptable 
TX sound quality, headphone quality was mostly acceptable, but only one 
was comfortable enough to be worn for more than about a half hour at a 
time.  "Acceptable" means OK but not great.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Using KX3 with MFJ-1899T

[Johnny Siu]

Thanks Don, perhaps, I may be too greedy to go for a multiband 1899t


TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC

寄件人︰ Don Butler 
收件人︰ Johnny Siu ; k...@yahoogroups.com 
副本(CC)︰ Elecraft  
傳送日期︰ 2012年07月6日 (週五) 8:55 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Using KX3 with MFJ-1899T

Hi Johnny,

I use the MFJ telescoping whips with my KX1 and KX3, but I opted for the single 
band antennas (17m, 20m, 40) rather than the multiband 1899t, which is much 
larger and heavier... I don't like mounting the whips directly to the radio 
with a right angle adapter . not sure if the antenna is holding the radio or 
vice versa, but the weight does seem to put a significant load on the rig's bnc 
connector. so I made a little bnc base out of scrap aluminum, and use it 
portable when it's not convenient or practical to string up a random wire. the 
setup works, but not as well as random wires, so it's a backup system at best.  
I have a few photos of the aluminum bnc base posted here which will give you an 
idea of what I'm talking about:

http://www.udxa.org/gallery/show_thumbs.php?id=29



73, Don, N5LZ



- Original Message - From: "Johnny Siu" 
To: 
Cc: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 6:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Using KX3 with MFJ-1899T


Hello Elecrafters,

I tried to use this portable telescopic antenna with the right angle BNC 
adapter. However, the whip is quite heavy and cannot stand on its own without 
falling. I trust this has been discussed before. Any solutions on the set up 
this portable whip?
Meanwhile, I finished building the KX3 kit and faced some problems in the TX 
gain caliration. The calibration began at 1.9Mhz but stopped at 5.3Mhz with an 
error message of high SWR in the ANT. However, I am using a dummy load for the 
calibration. The same dummy load was used in the calibration of K3 in the past. 
What is the likely problem for my KX3? The KX3 was powered by a 12v 7Ahr lead 
acid battery

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Help to find rotator part

[Simon Lewis]

try UKW Bereichte in Germany
 
they are on the web 
 
http://www.stecker-shop.net/
 
in german so unless you are familar with it you may have to hunt a bit
 
look under products - rotators etc
 
you can email them i...@ukwbereichte.com
 
they maybe have what your looking for
 
Rgds

Simon ZL4PLM
 


Check out more information on the world 50 MHz and Up : www.zl4plm.com

 

> From: d...@lanks.plus.com
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 01:38:51 +0100
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Help to find rotator part
> 
> Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, on and off reflector. I tried to
> be brief in my OT, but maybe I should have said I'd already tried Yaesu.
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted various Yaesus and the UK one confirmed they had no stocks and
> the pots in later rotators were incompatible. Following their suggestions
> for sources was unsuccessful.
> 
> 
> 
> Kenpro and Yaesu are almost the same, but not quite. The controllers and
> rotators are interchangeable but Yaesu improved the Kenpro pot, hence the
> desire for a Yaesu one.
> 
> 
> 
> Please keep looking and putting in the suggestions.
> 
> 
> 
> Grateful thanks and 73
> 
> 
> 
> Dave G3TJP
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Using KX3 with MFJ-1899T

[Don Butler]

Hi Johnny,

I use the MFJ telescoping whips with my KX1 and KX3, but I opted for the 
single band antennas (17m, 20m, 40) rather than the multiband 1899t, which 
is much larger and heavier... I don't like mounting the whips directly to 
the radio with a right angle adapter . not sure if the antenna is holding 
the radio or vice versa, but the weight does seem to put a significant load 
on the rig's bnc connector. so I made a little bnc base out of scrap 
aluminum, and use it portable when it's not convenient or practical to 
string up a random wire. the setup works, but not as well as random wires, 
so it's a backup system at best.  I have a few photos of the aluminum bnc 
base posted here which will give you an idea of what I'm talking about:

http://www.udxa.org/gallery/show_thumbs.php?id=29



73, Don, N5LZ



- Original Message - 
From: "Johnny Siu" 
To: 
Cc: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 6:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Using KX3 with MFJ-1899T


Hello Elecrafters,

I tried to use this portable telescopic antenna with the right angle BNC 
adapter. However, the whip is quite heavy and cannot stand on its own 
without falling. I trust this has been discussed before. Any solutions on 
the set up this portable whip?
Meanwhile, I finished building the KX3 kit and faced some problems in the TX 
gain caliration. The calibration began at 1.9Mhz but stopped at 5.3Mhz with 
an error message of high SWR in the ANT. However, I am using a dummy load 
for the calibration. The same dummy load was used in the calibration of K3 
in the past. What is the likely problem for my KX3? The KX3 was powered by a 
12v 7Ahr lead acid battery

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC
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[Elecraft] Power Settings for no AGC in Elecraft Radios

[John]

All (especially Don),

I have heard it explained on this reflector the Elecraft power control 
loop is such that the usual advice to...

   "max out the power setting and adjust the audio level input to avoid 
AGC action"

...is not appropriate for the K2 and, I suppose, the K3.

I accept this, but don't quite understand the reasoning.  Don can you 
please explain the key differences between a rig, such as my Icom 746, 
and the K2 that mandate this?

Are there other radio brands with power control loops like Elecraft 
products?

Thanks.

John, kx4o
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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV + K144RFLK issue

[Simon Lewis]

Hi Wayne
 
Yes I am seeing large jumps 10 Hz or > at 144 for sure. I know that others are 
seeing jumps too and at 6m and 10m too.
 
Appreciate you picking this up 
 
be great as at the moment that kind of jump every 3 secs makes weak signal digi 
modes difficult and even listening to the local beacon darn right annoying and 
the transverter pretty much useless for my use just now.
 
happy to act as a tester - please shout
 
Thanks

Simon ZL4PLM 
 
 


Check out more information on the world 50 MHz and Up : www.zl4plm.com

 

> CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> From: n...@elecraft.com
> To: gm4...@hotmail.com
> Subject: Re: K144XV + K144RFLK issue
> Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 17:38:15 -0700
> 
> Hi Simon,
> 
> Rich did some tests in March and theorized that there's a problem with 
> the K3 firmware, not the K3EXREF or the K144RFLK modules. That put it 
> on my firmware list, where it is still listed as high priority. I took 
> a stab at it back then but couldn't duplicate anywhere near the 
> reported jump size. As I recall, Rich was seeing about 3 Hz on 6 
> meters and 10 Hz on 2 meters.
> 
> I have another theory, too, and I've asked Rich to do further tests. 
> I'll get back to you when I know more, possibly as early as tomorrow.
> 
> Wayne
> 
> Simon Lewis wrote:
> 
> > Any progress on this?
> 
> 
  
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Help to find rotator part

[Dave Lankshear]

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, on and off reflector.  I tried to
be brief in my OT, but maybe I should have said I'd already tried Yaesu.

 

I contacted various Yaesus and the UK one confirmed they had no stocks and
the pots in later rotators were incompatible.  Following their suggestions
for sources was unsuccessful.

 

Kenpro and Yaesu are almost the same, but not quite.  The controllers and
rotators are interchangeable but Yaesu improved the Kenpro pot, hence the
desire for a Yaesu one.

 

Please keep looking and putting in the suggestions.

 

Grateful thanks and 73

 

Dave G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV + K144RFLK issue

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Simon,

Rich did some tests in March and theorized that there's a problem with  
the K3 firmware, not the K3EXREF or the K144RFLK modules. That put it  
on my firmware list, where it is still listed as high priority. I took  
a stab at it back then but couldn't duplicate anywhere near the  
reported jump size. As I recall, Rich was seeing about 3 Hz on 6  
meters and 10 Hz on 2 meters.

I have another theory, too, and I've asked Rich to do further tests.  
I'll get back to you when I know more, possibly as early as tomorrow.

Wayne

Simon Lewis wrote:

> Any progress on this?


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[Elecraft] Using KX3 with MFJ-1899T

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Elecrafters,
 
I tried to use this portable telescopic antenna with the right angle BNC 
adapter.  However, the whip is quite heavy and cannot stand on its own without 
falling.  I trust this has been discussed before.  Any solutions on the set up 
this portable whip?
 Meanwhile, I finished building the KX3 kit and faced some problems in the TX 
gain caliration.  The calibration began at 1.9Mhz but stopped at 5.3Mhz with an 
error message of high SWR in the ANT. However, I am using a dummy load for the 
calibration. The same dummy load was used in the calibration of K3 in the past. 
What is the likely problem for my KX3?  The KX3 was powered by a 12v 7Ahr lead 
acid battery
 
TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Macro toggle

[Nick-WA5BDU]

Whoa, I like this.  Must have missed it the first time around.  I now 
tap M3 to toggle between
5W (label: QRP) and 100W (label: QRO) with these macros:

MACRO1   PC005;MN110;SWT12;SWT35;SWT14;
MACRO2   PC100;MN110;SWT11;SWT35;SWT14;

That freed up (hold) M3 for another macro.

TU / 73-

Nick, WA5BDU


On 7/1/2012 12:35 PM, KU4AF wrote:
> Two macros instead of one - that sums up what is needed, but how to call two
> macros with one button? I was just fiddling around and came up with this,
> though it may not be original. The idea is to let the macro itself reassign
> the PF key to a different macro. For example, say you want the PF2 key to
> toggle between setting VFO A to 14010 and 14020 (not useful but just an
> example).
>
> Use the Utility to create the two macros like this:
>
> MACRO1   FA0001401;MN110;SWT12;SWH47;SWT14;
> MACRO2   FA0001402;MN110;SWT11;SWH47;SWT14;
>
> Send the Macros to the K3 then, on the K3, go to CONFIG:MACRO X, tap 1 and
> then hold PF2. Tap MENU to get out of CONFIG. Now MACRO1 is assigned to PF2.
> When you Hold PF2 the macro changes the frequency and then assigns MACRO2 to
> PF2. The next operation of PF2 sets a different frequency and sets PF2 back
> to MACRO1.
>
> Substitute whatever you want to toggle between for the FA commands. Put the
> two macros in whatever slots you have open and change the SWT11/12 taps to
> match. Change SWH47 to match the PF/M button you want to use. You could also
> expand on this to rotate among 3 or more macros.
>
> I expect others can add to this and again, I claim no originality for this
> idea. Now, who will be the first to suggest we need more than 8 Macro slots?
>
> John, KU4AF
> Pittsboro, NC
>
>


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Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy

[Matt Murphy]

I have one.  100 dollars shipped.

73
Matt NQ6N

On Jul 5, 2012, at 2:32 PM, Ed Stallman  wrote:

> looking for an LP-PAN and sound card for the K3 ..let me know what
> you have and price
>
> Thanks Ed N5DG
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 4.51 is now production released

[Lyle Johnson]

It's the same.  Pre-beta, beta and production are just indicators of 
confidence level in the code.

If there were any changes at all in the firmware, it would get a 
different firmware release number.

73,

Lyle KK7P

>> We've moved K3 f/w 4.51 and its matching DSP code from beta to final
>> release mode. K3 utility should now automatically see it when you check
>> for new f/w.
> I have the Beta, is the "production" different?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 4.51 is now production released

[Fred Jensen]

On 7/5/2012 4:22 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> We've moved K3 f/w 4.51 and its matching DSP code from beta to final
> release mode. K3 utility should now automatically see it when you check
> for new f/w.

I have the Beta, is the "production" different?  I'm guessing not or you 
would have said so, but just checking.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

[JP O'Connor]

Yes, that appears to be an example of the type of charge controller chips
utilized in the types of balancing chargers mentioned earlier in this
thread. For example, the iCharger 106B+ that I use can handle up to 8 cell
packs in balance charge mode for a variety of different chemistries.

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 12:15 PM, Matthew Zilmer wrote:

> There are other ways to achieve charge parity (balance).  One of them is
> the multi-cell charge controller.  An example for LiPo chemistries is the
> AAT 3663.  Datasheet is available at  www.analogictech.com.  Doesn't help
> with AA's, but there is probably an equivalent out there for lower voltage
> single cells.
>
> Looks to me like Greg is correct about the difference between balancing
> and equalizing.  Xantrex / Trace refers only to "equalizing" with their
> controlled overcharge on solar charge controllers.  EQ is used with FLAs to
> "stir the pot" and disturb sulfation on the Pb plates, and the process
> basically allows the sulfates to debond from the lead.  With FLAs, I run an
> EQ for two hours about five times a year.
>
> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> KX3 #6 / FT
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:
> elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of JP O'Connor
> Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 8:58 AM
> To: Greg Troxel
> Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger
>
> The balance charging operation requires access to each cell and requires a
> smart charger that is appropriately programmed for the specific chemistry
> and for the balance operation. The idea is to be sure that each cell is
> properly and fully charged without overcharging or damaging any of the
> other cells in the pack. This is quite common with the all the various
> lithium chemistries, and when using NiCd or NiMh smart chargers that charge
> each cell independently. Most of the inexpensive consumer NiCd and/or NiMh
> chargers do not treat each cell independently. Only the more expensive
> models include the test/refresh modes. Although NiCd and NiMh cells are
> often overcharged by many slow chargers, apparently that is not the best
> practice when performed on a regular basis. Thus, the smart chargers.
>
> If I am understanding correctly, a PbAcid (e.g. SLA) equalize charge
> operation does not have access to each cell and instead is an operation
> that uses a carefully controlled "overcharge" function, within the safe
> "operating envelope" of the battery, to bring up the lagging cells without
> damaging the stronger cells.
>
> It sounds like equalize and balance are two different operations, intended
> for different cell chemistry and charging styles.
>
> Starting with a fresh set of Eneloop (white label 1,900 mAh or black XX
> label 2,500 mAh) or other brand of "pre-charged" or low self-discharge
> (LSD) NiMh batteries that have had at least one test/refresh cycle
> performed, the need for removing the batteries from the KX3 for a
> test/refresh cycle should be VERY infrequent as long as they are not abused
> significantly. As Jim mentioned, hopefully this won't be too often. Who
> knows, even with heavy use, maybe the batteries won't need to be removed
> for over a year - or two. Yes, Greg, I plan to do things exactly as you
> stated: check after a few months, but then pretty much leave them alone in
> the radio for a long while as I see how things work out. I will be
> interested to hear from folks here on the reflector as experience is gained.
>
> With the traditional non-LSD high capacity NiMh batteries, the need for
> test/refresh may be a bit more frequent. For example, the Energizer 2600
> mAh (?) AA cells are notorious for extremely rapid self-discharge and may
> need a bit more care and feeding.
> 72/73 de JP WF4Z
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 3:25 PM, Greg Troxel  wrote:
>
> >
> > In "balance" vs "equalize", I also hear about equalization charge to
> > 12V SLA batteries without access to individual cells.  PbAcid cells
> > have a higher charge/discharge marginal ratio as they get full, so a
> > mild overcharge should tend to cause all cells to be fully charged.
> > NiMH is almost certainly similar, especially during low-rate
> > overcharge as is typical, so I'd expect that all cells end up full.
> >
> > To understand the KXBC3 behavior, it seems that one should use a Maha
> > C9000 or equivalent to measure/record the capacity ("refresh/analyze")
> > of all the cells, and then put then in the KX3 and use them for a
> > while, and then when the KX3 says they are charged pull them and do a
> > discharge measurement followed by a refresh/analyze.  I'll report back
> > later :-)
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] K144XV + K144RFLK issue

[Simon Lewis]

Any progress on this team?
 
Thats another 4 months
 
73 Simon ZL4PLM

Check out more information on the world 50 MHz and Up : www.zl4plm.com

 



From: gm4...@hotmail.com
To: n...@elecraft.com; dro...@necg.de
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K144XV + K144RFLK issue
Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 22:19:09 +




Hi Wayne
 
RR 
 
Happy to beta help out fix the issue as required
 
I know a few other VHF-SHF K3 owners will be willing too 
 
Cheers

Simon ZL4PLM


Check out more information on the world 50 MHz and Up : www.zl4plm.com

 


> From: n...@elecraft.com
> To: dro...@necg.de
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K144XV + K144RFLK issue
> Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 14:17:04 -0800
> CC: gm4...@hotmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> This is likely to be a firmware issue and is on my list.
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> On Mar 6, 2012, at 1:02 PM, Oliver Dröse wrote:
> 
> > Hi Simon,
> >
> > can you check if the behaviour is the same if you unplug the 10 MHz 
> > source?
> > I have the K144RFLK myself and don't see that behaviour but I do not 
> > use an
> > external 10 MHz reference. To me it seemms like the jumps could be 
> > due to
> > frequency correction calculations from the external reference. To 
> > confirm
> > that just plug it off and see if it still is the same. Just a 
> > thought ...
> >
> > Vy 73, Olli - DH8BQA
> > http://www.dh8bqa.de/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Simon Lewis" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 10:31 AM
> > Subject: [Elecraft] K144XV + K144RFLK issue
> >
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> HI All
> >>
> >> I dipped into the Elecraft world again with a K3/10
> >>
> >> Plus Tvtr IF and K144XV
> >>
> >> Mainly as a transverter driver
> >>
> >> I bought the reflock for the radio and the transverter
> >>
> >> All is fine and my box is alive and well
> >>
> >> Just installed the K144XV and I notice an unusual change in receive 
> >> freq
> >> when looking at a local beacon on 144
> >>
> >> Every 3 secs or so it jumps about 10 Hz high or so then returns 
> >> back to
> >> its normal freq - then 3 secs later does the same again
> >>
> >> not sure why its doing this any advice appreciated
> >>
> >> I have done all the cal routines and the main unit has 10 MHz 
> >> applied and
> >> is locked - flashing * on the cal entry
> >>
> >>
> >> I only just purchased it so I assume the firmware would be the 
> >> latest?
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> Simon ZL4PLM
  
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[Elecraft] K2 - far right S meter led lights erratically

[w6ldm]

Hi,

I am the new owner of a K2/100 #2633. I see that the far right S-meter led
lights up erratically.
I searched the reflector but couldn't find anything comparable to my
problem.
I do not have the CW tuning mod installed.

Any advice?

Thank you

--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-far-right-S-meter-led-lights-erratically-tp7558680.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] K3 4.51 is now production released

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

We've moved K3 f/w 4.51 and its matching DSP code from beta to final 
release mode. K3 utility should now automatically see it when you check 
for new f/w.

73,

-- 
Eric  WA6HHQ
---
www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3

[Cameron Haines]

Well, beating my head against the wall at this point. Went through that section 
in schematic and rechecked all component placement along with values. Checked 
all joints plus touched up a few places. Still same results. Checked on the 
meter what I could in so far as resistance and continuity all looks well. 



 From: Don Wilhelm 
To: Cameron Haines  
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2012 4:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
 
Ok, initial data has been satisfied, and it has been determined that you 
have a problem.
1817 kHz does not relate to 12.096 kHz in any harmonic combination that 
I can find, so I conclude that your counter probe is measuring noise at TP1.

Recheck the soldering at all points for the PLL Reference - the 
components are indicated on the schematic sheet 1 of 4 at the back of 
the manual.



On 7/5/2012 1:53 PM, Cameron Haines wrote:
> Don,
>
> Probe is good and was at 4913 plus a few hz via TP2. Crystal in X1is the 
> 12096 crystal. I checked continuity and double checked solder joints all 
> looks good. I still get the strange reading as before via TP2 however.
>
> Cameron
>
>
> 
>   From: Don Wilhelm 
> To: Cameron Haines 
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2012 12:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>  
> Cameron,
>
> The first thing is to determine whether you have a problem with the
> counter probe or with the PLL reference oscillator.  Plug the probe into
> TP2 and expect a reading close to 4913 to 4916 kHz.  If that is true,
> the the probe is OK.
>
> If the probe is good, then check the PLL crystal.  It should be a 12,096
> mHz crystal.
> I do not know why it would oscillate at 1817 kHz, that has no
> relationship to the proper frequency.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/5/2012 12:47 PM, Cameron Haines wrote:
>> Good morning,
>>
>> I finally have my probe setup. Here is my readings which seem way off.
>>
>> 4 Mhz Oscillator Calibration = 1817.00 which should be reading 12090 +/- 30 
>> kHz per manual
>>
>> PLL Reference Range Test
>>
>> Seems correct range but frequency is wrong as with Osc calibration.
>>
>> VCO Test
>>    
>> 3 - 4 kHz as opposed to 8 - 10 Mhz.
>>
>> Any thoughts were I have gone wrong?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Cameron
>> AE5UZ
>>
>>
>> 
>>     From: Cameron Haines 
>> To: David Moorman 
>> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:40 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>>    
>>
>> Great suggestion. I can hear it a 4Mhz now.. from my Softrock SDR. Wonder 
>> why the Freq counters couldn't pick it up however. hmm.
>>
>> Thanks David!
>>
>>
>> 
>>     From: David Moorman 
>> To: Cameron Haines 
>> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:03 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>>    
>> Do you have a receiver you can listen on to see if the oscillator is 
>> actually oscillating?
>>
>> Dave K9SW
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 3, 2012, at 6:41 PM, Cameron Haines  wrote:
>>
>>> Correction.
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey Guys,
>>>
>>> Well, I am at the part where I need to test the 4 MHz oscillator 
>>> calibration and ran into a snag. I am not getting anything on two different 
>>> frequency counters when connected to TP3. Test up to this point have been 
>>> good. Checked all the components around X1 and all look correct. No error 
>>> message on startup.
>>>
>>> Any ideas where to go from here?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Cameron
>>> AE5UZ
>>> __
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>>     http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>> __
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>>
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This list host

Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

[Matthew Zilmer]

There are other ways to achieve charge parity (balance).  One of them is the 
multi-cell charge controller.  An example for LiPo chemistries is the AAT 3663. 
 Datasheet is available at  www.analogictech.com.  Doesn't help with AA's, but 
there is probably an equivalent out there for lower voltage single cells.

Looks to me like Greg is correct about the difference between balancing and 
equalizing.  Xantrex / Trace refers only to "equalizing" with their controlled 
overcharge on solar charge controllers.  EQ is used with FLAs to "stir the pot" 
and disturb sulfation on the Pb plates, and the process basically allows the 
sulfates to debond from the lead.  With FLAs, I run an EQ for two hours about 
five times a year.

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
KX3 #6 / FT


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of JP O'Connor
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 8:58 AM
To: Greg Troxel
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

The balance charging operation requires access to each cell and requires a 
smart charger that is appropriately programmed for the specific chemistry and 
for the balance operation. The idea is to be sure that each cell is properly 
and fully charged without overcharging or damaging any of the other cells in 
the pack. This is quite common with the all the various lithium chemistries, 
and when using NiCd or NiMh smart chargers that charge each cell independently. 
Most of the inexpensive consumer NiCd and/or NiMh chargers do not treat each 
cell independently. Only the more expensive models include the test/refresh 
modes. Although NiCd and NiMh cells are often overcharged by many slow 
chargers, apparently that is not the best practice when performed on a regular 
basis. Thus, the smart chargers.

If I am understanding correctly, a PbAcid (e.g. SLA) equalize charge operation 
does not have access to each cell and instead is an operation that uses a 
carefully controlled "overcharge" function, within the safe "operating 
envelope" of the battery, to bring up the lagging cells without damaging the 
stronger cells.

It sounds like equalize and balance are two different operations, intended for 
different cell chemistry and charging styles.

Starting with a fresh set of Eneloop (white label 1,900 mAh or black XX label 
2,500 mAh) or other brand of "pre-charged" or low self-discharge
(LSD) NiMh batteries that have had at least one test/refresh cycle performed, 
the need for removing the batteries from the KX3 for a test/refresh cycle 
should be VERY infrequent as long as they are not abused significantly. As Jim 
mentioned, hopefully this won't be too often. Who knows, even with heavy use, 
maybe the batteries won't need to be removed for over a year - or two. Yes, 
Greg, I plan to do things exactly as you
stated: check after a few months, but then pretty much leave them alone in the 
radio for a long while as I see how things work out. I will be interested to 
hear from folks here on the reflector as experience is gained.

With the traditional non-LSD high capacity NiMh batteries, the need for 
test/refresh may be a bit more frequent. For example, the Energizer 2600 mAh 
(?) AA cells are notorious for extremely rapid self-discharge and may need a 
bit more care and feeding.
72/73 de JP WF4Z


On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 3:25 PM, Greg Troxel  wrote:

>
> In "balance" vs "equalize", I also hear about equalization charge to 
> 12V SLA batteries without access to individual cells.  PbAcid cells 
> have a higher charge/discharge marginal ratio as they get full, so a 
> mild overcharge should tend to cause all cells to be fully charged.  
> NiMH is almost certainly similar, especially during low-rate 
> overcharge as is typical, so I'd expect that all cells end up full.
>
> To understand the KXBC3 behavior, it seems that one should use a Maha
> C9000 or equivalent to measure/record the capacity ("refresh/analyze") 
> of all the cells, and then put then in the KX3 and use them for a 
> while, and then when the KX3 says they are charged pull them and do a 
> discharge measurement followed by a refresh/analyze.  I'll report back 
> later :-)
>
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[Elecraft] K3 - 5 pole 500Hz filter for Sale

[Buck - k4ia]

No longer needed so now it needs a new home.

New $89.95 plus shipping.  I'll sell for $75 including shipping to US.

PayPal preferred.

-- 
Buck
k4ia

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3

[Don Wilhelm]

Ok, initial data has been satisfied, and it has been determined that you 
have a problem.
1817 kHz does not relate to 12.096 kHz in any harmonic combination that 
I can find, so I conclude that your counter probe is measuring noise at TP1.

Recheck the soldering at all points for the PLL Reference - the 
components are indicated on the schematic sheet 1 of 4 at the back of 
the manual.



On 7/5/2012 1:53 PM, Cameron Haines wrote:
> Don,
>
> Probe is good and was at 4913 plus a few hz via TP2. Crystal in X1is the 
> 12096 crystal. I checked continuity and double checked solder joints all 
> looks good. I still get the strange reading as before via TP2 however.
>
> Cameron
>
>
> 
>   From: Don Wilhelm 
> To: Cameron Haines 
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2012 12:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>   
> Cameron,
>
> The first thing is to determine whether you have a problem with the
> counter probe or with the PLL reference oscillator.  Plug the probe into
> TP2 and expect a reading close to 4913 to 4916 kHz.  If that is true,
> the the probe is OK.
>
> If the probe is good, then check the PLL crystal.  It should be a 12,096
> mHz crystal.
> I do not know why it would oscillate at 1817 kHz, that has no
> relationship to the proper frequency.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/5/2012 12:47 PM, Cameron Haines wrote:
>> Good morning,
>>
>> I finally have my probe setup. Here is my readings which seem way off.
>>
>> 4 Mhz Oscillator Calibration = 1817.00 which should be reading 12090 +/- 30 
>> kHz per manual
>>
>> PLL Reference Range Test
>>
>> Seems correct range but frequency is wrong as with Osc calibration.
>>
>> VCO Test
>>
>> 3 - 4 kHz as opposed to 8 - 10 Mhz.
>>
>> Any thoughts were I have gone wrong?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Cameron
>> AE5UZ
>>
>>
>> 
>> From: Cameron Haines 
>> To: David Moorman 
>> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:40 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>>
>>
>> Great suggestion. I can hear it a 4Mhz now.. from my Softrock SDR. Wonder 
>> why the Freq counters couldn't pick it up however. hmm.
>>
>> Thanks David!
>>
>>
>> 
>> From: David Moorman 
>> To: Cameron Haines 
>> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:03 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>>
>> Do you have a receiver you can listen on to see if the oscillator is 
>> actually oscillating?
>>
>> Dave K9SW
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 3, 2012, at 6:41 PM, Cameron Haines  wrote:
>>
>>> Correction.
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey Guys,
>>>
>>> Well, I am at the part where I need to test the 4 MHz oscillator 
>>> calibration and ran into a snag. I am not getting anything on two different 
>>> frequency counters when connected to TP3. Test up to this point have been 
>>> good. Checked all the components around X1 and all look correct. No error 
>>> message on startup.
>>>
>>> Any ideas where to go from here?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Cameron
>>> AE5UZ
>>> __
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[Elecraft] Want to buy

[Ed Stallman]

looking for an LP-PAN and sound card for the K3 ..let me know what 
you have and price

Thanks Ed N5DG

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[Elecraft] [KPA500] OT

[Richard S. Leary]

To The Elecraft Team et al,

This is the time to order your KPA500. I did an on-line order late Sunday
evening, 24 June. It arrived 62 1/2 hours later, Wed, June 27. 

The kit inventory was done (no missing parts), manuals read and understood.
The build went without any problems whatsoever and included

experience, carefullness, patience, and a lot of second time RTFM. It was
really a fun project. 

It performs as expected. Absolutely NO anomalies.

My thanks to Elecraft, and I mention Wayne, Eric, and the parts packers
Edgar, Felicita, Fidel, and Stephanie. You folks do an excellent job. Again,
my thanks to the entire Elecraft team.

The KPA500 #930 now joins K3 #4497, and P3 #433, along with a SteppIR DB-18
antenna @ 50'. Never had an "S" line, but I do now have a "K-Line".

Oh yes, The KPA500's first two contacts were 1A0C on 20m CW & SSB.

 

Again, many thanks es 73,

 

"Rick" Leary, W7LKG

w7...@comcast.net

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

[JP O'Connor]

Thanks for that explanation, Ed. I have limited experience with the lead
acid battery systems, so I wasn't sure.

On those rare occasions when you do use internal batteries, remember the
alkalines limit you to 3W maximum and even then will have limited life.
Based on your anticipated usage plan, that may be enough. Be sure to remove
them right after your trip since they often leak. The Energizer Ultimate
Lithium, though much more expensive, will allow a bit higher output if you
wish, and will last a lot longer. Again, the best choice depends upon the
individual need.

A few folks have talked about the possibility of replacing the AA cell
holders and rigging their own internal battery pack with a higher density
power source. Given the limited space, it will be interesting to see what
creative solutions are found to provide internal power... and if any
provision is or can be made to recharge the pack without opening the radio.
We shall see!

72/73 de JP WF4Z

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 2:37 PM, Edward R. Cole  wrote:

> JP WF4Z wrote:
> =snip
> If I am understanding correctly, a PbAcid (e.g. SLA) equalize charge
> operation does not have access to each cell and instead is an operation
> that uses a carefully controlled "overcharge" function, within the safe
> "operating envelope" of the battery, to bring up the lagging cells without
> damaging the stronger cells.
>
> It sounds like equalize and balance are two different operations, intended
> for different cell chemistry and charging styles.
> =snip
>
> Yes, the PbAcid battery bank at my former employment used a PS that
> had both float and equalize voltage settings (which were set to the
> specific brand-model per their specs).  Equalize raised charge
> voltage about 0.35v from float and was applied across all batteries
> as a bank and not each individually.
>
> Purpose of "balance" and "equalize" seems the same though
> accomplished differently (make all cells equal in voltage).
>
> Equalize had both voltage setting and charge timer so it would resume
> float at conclusion.  These are not cheap units!  We had one for 12v
> and one for 48v (master battery system for our UPS units).
>
> I do not expect to run internal batteries in my KX3 (except on a rare
> flight somewhere).  Probably just use AA alkaline's.  But opening the
> KX3 to change batteries is a delicate operation due to the flex and
> power wires.  I might opt to make a small gel-cell package with a
> power connector, instead.
>
> PS:  I made a makeshift mounting bracket for my KX3 that attaches to
> the 4-40 tapped holes used for the paddles (which I did not
> purchase).  Simple flat aluminum plate that I bent up 15-degrees to
> view the display directly.  Plate screws into my wooden radio
> shelfs.  I cut a 13/16 inch hole in the plate to "port" the speaker.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
> ==
> BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
> EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
> DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
> "Kits made by KL7UW" http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm
> ==
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

[stan levandowski]

Outstanding creativity,  Ed!   Now I can get my KX3 up off my operating 
desk.  Another example of how beneficial this list can be!   I'm on the 
way out to the garage to dust off the brake.  However, I am going to 
make a couple extra bends so I can mount the KX3 *below* my lowest shelf 
but still *off* the desk.   Many, many thanks!

Stan WB2LQF

> PS:  I made a makeshift mounting bracket for my KX3 that attaches to 
> the 4-40 tapped holes used for the paddles (which I did not purchase). 
> Simple flat aluminum plate that I bent up 15-degrees to view the 
> display directly.  Plate screws into my wooden radio shelfs.  I cut a 
> 13/16 inch hole in the plate to "port" the speaker.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[Fred Jensen]

On 7/5/2012 11:08 AM, Edward R. Cole wrote:
>
> Today is semi-annual shack cleaning day (also wading into the "rats
> nest" of wires behind the console in preparation for hosting a "shack
> tour" at the end of our local hamfest in a couple weeks.

Always wondered why they call this "wireless."

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 & RTTY with K3 and SignaLink USB

[Tony Estep]

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 10:55 AM, Terry Schieler <
terry.schie...@wirelessusa.com> wrote:

> still don't seem to have it right

===
Terry, try it without the Signalink. Just plug the audio cables directly
from the Line In/Out jacks on the K3 to your computer. Adjust the K3's ALC
bars and power output as described in the K3 manual, not the way that the
Signalink instructions say. The K3 is different from other transceivers in
that the output power should not be governed by drive, but rather by its
internal power-management scheme.

The K3 does not require an interface to do AFSK, PSK, WSPR, JT-65 or any
other digital mode. You can get good results just with two cables,
because the K3 has isolation transformers built in.

After you get everything going, you can then insert the Signalink into the
loop. It has its own sound card, which will probably do a better job than
the one in your PC in terms of S/N ratio on weak signals. The process will
be easier after you've shaken things down without the additional complexity
of the external interface. When the Signalink is in the loop, you still
want to adjust the ALC and power as explained by the K3 manual.

73,
Tony KT0NY


-- 
http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

[Edward R. Cole]

JP WF4Z wrote:
=snip
If I am understanding correctly, a PbAcid (e.g. SLA) equalize charge
operation does not have access to each cell and instead is an operation
that uses a carefully controlled "overcharge" function, within the safe
"operating envelope" of the battery, to bring up the lagging cells without
damaging the stronger cells.

It sounds like equalize and balance are two different operations, intended
for different cell chemistry and charging styles.
=snip

Yes, the PbAcid battery bank at my former employment used a PS that 
had both float and equalize voltage settings (which were set to the 
specific brand-model per their specs).  Equalize raised charge 
voltage about 0.35v from float and was applied across all batteries 
as a bank and not each individually.

Purpose of "balance" and "equalize" seems the same though 
accomplished differently (make all cells equal in voltage).

Equalize had both voltage setting and charge timer so it would resume 
float at conclusion.  These are not cheap units!  We had one for 12v 
and one for 48v (master battery system for our UPS units).

I do not expect to run internal batteries in my KX3 (except on a rare 
flight somewhere).  Probably just use AA alkaline's.  But opening the 
KX3 to change batteries is a delicate operation due to the flex and 
power wires.  I might opt to make a small gel-cell package with a 
power connector, instead.

PS:  I made a makeshift mounting bracket for my KX3 that attaches to 
the 4-40 tapped holes used for the paddles (which I did not 
purchase).  Simple flat aluminum plate that I bent up 15-degrees to 
view the display directly.  Plate screws into my wooden radio 
shelfs.  I cut a 13/16 inch hole in the plate to "port" the speaker.







73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
"Kits made by KL7UW" http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm
==
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Bluetooth and RF

[Fred Townsend]

Tom with good engineering practice there is no reason why you can't
successfully connect using BlueTooth. However good engineering practice
isn't always practiced. That's why any commercial manufacturer, constructing
an appliance of the kind you describe, must undergo certified testing.
However I don't see that as a major obstacle, even if you are not an
engineer.
What did raise my concern is your AVR. Your AVR will most likely have a
24MHz (hello 12 meter birdies) or 48MHz clock although it could be as low as
12 MHz. It is particularly important your AVR be properly housed and
shielded with attention to bypassing of power supply leads even if you are
using battery power. Your data cables will likely need some ferrite lumps
too.
A continuous tuning receiver is a great tool for checking your design. The
beauty of amateur radio is you can experiment  with your design without big
brother looking over your shoulder.  After all you will be the first person
to suffer if you have RFI problems. 
Go for it Tom.
73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Horsten
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 4:06 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [OT] Bluetooth and RF

Hi guys,

I know it's a bit off-topic but there are so many knowledgeable people here
that I thought I'll try asking. I've built a multifunction CW keyer with a
straight key, paddle, and keyboard input, that uses an AVR microcontroller.
Currently I'm using PS/2 for the keyboard input as it's easy to implement in
the AVR (and a cheap $2 adapter allows the use of USB keyboards).

But for taking on the road with my KX3 (which is stuck in customs since
Monday but should hopefully be with me soon), I'd like to use an
ultra-compact Bluetooth keyboard, of the type used with smartphones. I am
considering doing this by adding a Bluegiga WT12 Bluetooth module (which has
an UART interface that can talk to the AVR).

Before I begin on this I'd like to know how well Bluetooth can be expected
to work in a RF-filled environment (at up to 10W but with the antenna very
close, as in portable operations). It'd be a shame to get everything built
only to find out that the Bluetooth connection dies every time I transmit.
Has anyone got experience with this and/or other comments/ideas?

73, Thomas M0TRN
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

This applies to CW and particularly to contesting.

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 11:51 AM, Vic K2VCO  wrote:

> I say 'much' because the effect of concatenating the DSP and the sharp
> filter will change
> the shape of the bandpass a little.
>

If the DSP width is set to the actual bandwidth of an 8 pole roofer and the
offset of the roofer is carefully adjusted to bring its *** 30 dB down ***
(not -6 dB) skirts to coincide with the 30 dB down skirts of the DSP, the
effect is quite more than a "little".

For the 400 hz 8 pole, this width is 450 Hz, and for the 250 Hz 8 pole this
width is 350, and to get the benefit you must install the "400" Hz as 450,
and the "250" as 350 width with the K3 utility.  It takes some time to get
the combination exactly "skirt-aligned", with the filter offset setting,
but it is worth it.

Until I discovered this procedure, my K3 had the best front end and some
really neat features over my Yaesu FT1000MP.  But the K3 did ***NOT*** have
the best selectivity.  Nor was it particularly close.  My MP had cascaded 8
pole INRAD filters in the 8 MHz and 455 kHz IF's.  I had that arrangement
for 1.8, 400 Hz and 250 Hz.  When someone was high or low but enough into
my bandpass to be a problem, a very small tune-tweak with RIT, with the
offending signal on really, really sharp skirts would put another 10 dB
 rejection on him without my moving my run frequency.

NOW, with the 8 pole offsets set for skirt alignment with DSP at -30 dB,
when I use 450 or 350 width I get the MP dual INRAD style skirt rejection.
 Note it's not so sharp away from the 450 or 350 settings.   That is
because while the DSP uses digital magic to retain it's shape factor with ,
the 8 pole at 400 or 300 is starting the level off process in the curve,
and it is not adding as much rejection to the DSP's rejection.

For my purposes, the rejection at 400 is acceptable, but having the "250"
roofer kick in at 350 really makes 450 to 300 width quite good, even if it
still remains a teensy bit broader than the cascaded INRADs  in the MP.

Now here's the other benefit:  The very sharp drop of the skirt aligned 8
pole/DSP at 450 and 350 converts an up or down frequency signal with key
clicks to LOWER amplitude, but VERY SHARP spikes, viewed on a scope.  Some
people have mistakenly thought this was making clicks worse, and perhaps
from an irritation point of view that was true. That was because the really
spikey part of the sound which irritates most was being held down by the
extra energy let in by broader selectivity.

Why is sharp spikes a benefit?  The K3 is WONDERFUL at handling spikes.
 More so after the spectacular improvements from firmware 4.51, even the
lowest NB setting of IF OFF and DSP t1-7 will simply eliminate all but
louder key clicks, and since 4.51, t2-7 has handled anything.  The AGC
already ignores short spikes, and so unless the key clicks in adjacent
channel are loud enough to get into the hardware AGC (15 or 20 over key
clicks?) , clicks become a non-issue.  In some cases, the clicks go from S7
or S8 to S nothing.  Suppression of five or six S units is more common.  I
sometimes get the clicks supressed only to hear the station's phase noise
or poorly suppressed carrier.

If you have ever held down a run frequency for 4 plus hours, it almost
inevitable to get a clicky signal up or down.  This click-elimination
feature of a K3 can be the difference between staying where all your spots
are, or having to move in self defense and really messing up your rate
until you can find another frequency.  There may not be any open
frequencies, particularly if the band you are on is the only one really
open (or a 160 contest).  Losing a run frequency can cost you 50 or 100
contacts.  Later in a contest, S&P is not an option.

I now just leave NB on all the time at t1-7, IF OFF.  My ear has gotten
used to the very slight truncation of CW bauds at t1-7.

The pair set at 450 and 350 has another use.  While I always settle into a
run frequency where I hear nothing in the 450 bandwidth, It frequently
these days gets squeezed as the K3 phenomenon is transforming traditional
1/2 kHz spacing to 1/3 kHz spacing. More and more frequently, after
starting at 450, I find myself running at 350 bandwidth in self-defense.
 Still with the great key click suppression, and with a 300 setting that
works nearly as good.

I have operated for hours with the (mandatory?) 30 over 9 Italian up 400 Hz
running a pair of 3CX5000's and bad key clicks, and kept it at high rates.
 Something my MP could never do, notwithstanding cascaded INRADs and
super-sharp selectivity.  The Italian still gets a dun after the contest,
but has never responded.  I think he looks for me because I DON'T have any
key clicks and don't respond with squeezing, etc.  With my K3, I just don't
care.  Some low level of clicks is irrelevant, and I can monitor his rate.
 He does turn in good scores.

So I have 5 pole 2.7 for conversational SSB, and for contests, 1.8 8 pole
for SSB (mandato

Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[Edward R. Cole]

At the risk of being repetitive, I chose the 2.8 KHz and 400-Hz 
8-pole filters for my main Rx and 2.8 for my sub-Rx.  I run CW on VHF 
and up so "crowded band phenomena" is rarely encountered.  On eme it 
is never seen.  But I reasoned having the steeper skirts would be 
handy for HF-SSB and cascading the 400-Hz with the DSP at 100-Hz 
might net a slight improvement with super-weak CW on eme.  I find the 
400-Hz filter is narrow enough to make tuning for CW difficult enough 
(usually tune in 2.1-DSP and narrow down once on freq.).  I added a 
13-KHz filter for running VHF-FM on the main-Rx (works nice on BC am).

I bought the dual-bw filter for the KX3 figuring it might make 
difference in reception with the direct-conversion SDR.  It appears 
to switch in at about 2.35 KHz. I can hear the change in band noise 
with it in.  I have not spent enough "play" time to come up with 
optimum menu settings (most still the original).

Today is semi-annual shack cleaning day (also wading into the "rats 
nest" of wires behind the console in preparation for hosting a "shack 
tour" at the end of our local hamfest in a couple weeks.  Now that I 
have the KX3 and all my new transverters installed, I can accomplish 
a more "permanent" wiring hookup!  (nothing in my shack is permanent!)

 From overcast, 50F, with gusty winds (in Alaska),


73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-QRT, 1296-?, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
"Kits made by KL7UW" http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3

[Cameron Haines]

Don,

Probe is good and was at 4913 plus a few hz via TP2. Crystal in X1is the 12096 
crystal. I checked continuity and double checked solder joints all looks good. 
I still get the strange reading as before via TP2 however.

Cameron



 From: Don Wilhelm 
To: Cameron Haines  
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2012 12:20 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
 
Cameron,

The first thing is to determine whether you have a problem with the 
counter probe or with the PLL reference oscillator.  Plug the probe into 
TP2 and expect a reading close to 4913 to 4916 kHz.  If that is true, 
the the probe is OK.

If the probe is good, then check the PLL crystal.  It should be a 12,096 
mHz crystal.
I do not know why it would oscillate at 1817 kHz, that has no 
relationship to the proper frequency.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/5/2012 12:47 PM, Cameron Haines wrote:
> Good morning,
>
> I finally have my probe setup. Here is my readings which seem way off.
>
> 4 Mhz Oscillator Calibration = 1817.00 which should be reading 12090 +/- 30 
> kHz per manual
>
> PLL Reference Range Test
>
> Seems correct range but frequency is wrong as with Osc calibration.
>
> VCO Test
>  
> 3 - 4 kHz as opposed to 8 - 10 Mhz.
>
> Any thoughts were I have gone wrong?
>
> Thanks,
> Cameron
> AE5UZ
>
>
> 
>   From: Cameron Haines 
> To: David Moorman 
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>  
>
> Great suggestion. I can hear it a 4Mhz now.. from my Softrock SDR. Wonder why 
> the Freq counters couldn't pick it up however. hmm.
>
> Thanks David!
>
>
> 
>   From: David Moorman 
> To: Cameron Haines 
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>  
> Do you have a receiver you can listen on to see if the oscillator is actually 
> oscillating?
>
> Dave K9SW
>
>
>
> On Jul 3, 2012, at 6:41 PM, Cameron Haines  wrote:
>
>> Correction.
>>
>>
>> Hey Guys,
>>
>> Well, I am at the part where I need to test the 4 MHz oscillator calibration 
>> and ran into a snag. I am not getting anything on two different frequency 
>> counters when connected to TP3. Test up to this point have been good. 
>> Checked all the components around X1 and all look correct. No error message 
>> on startup.
>>
>> Any ideas where to go from here?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Cameron
>> AE5UZ
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[Elecraft] WTB K3 1.8 kHz filter

[Keith Heimbold]

I am looking for a 1.8 kHz filter for my K3 1391. Please reply offline if you 
have one to sell.

Thanks,

Keith
AG6AZ

ag...@hotmail.com

Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos
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[Elecraft] K3 WTB 200Hz filter

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

Would anyone have a 200HZ filter for the K3 they are looking to part with?
Please contact off list.

Thanks and 73,
Julius
n2wn

-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2#4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3/100 
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-WTB-200Hz-filter-tp7558660.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

Thomas,

On 7/5/2012 11:55 AM, Thomas Horsten wrote:
 >
> You may say this and it may be true in theory, but if you have a
> 400Hz filter and are listening on an otherwise clear segment of the
> band with a single relatively weak signal in the centre of the
> passband, try widening from 400Hz to 450Hz,

This is the wrong test as you significantly change bandwidth when
going from 400 Hz with the 400 Hz roofer to 450 Hz with the 2.7
or 2.8 KHz roofer.

The correct test is to set your DSP bandwidth to 300 Hz and switch
roofers while making no other changes.  Under those conditions -
unless you are listening to a very busy band with may strong local
signals - if you can hear a difference you are probably a science
fiction or fantasy writer.

> Personally I have not had any need for anything narrower than 400Hz,
> although I would love a 200Hz filter if there was room for 6, but my
> lineup is FM, AM 6kHz, 2.7, 2.1, 400, so I don't have room for any
> more.

It is an absolute shame that we are still stuck with the FM/AM filter
limitation after all this time.  The FM filter (+/-6.5 KHz @-6dB and
about +/- 10 KHz at -60dB) is more than satisfactory to remove any
transmit image at 30 KHz offset (after all, it works in FM).  I have
never been able to detect any image response (transmit or receive)
with the FM filter in AM or ESSB when I tell the K3 it's and AM
filter.


73,

... Joe, W4TV



On 7/5/2012 11:55 AM, Thomas Horsten wrote:
> Vic,
>
> You may say this and it may be true in theory, but if you have a 400Hz
> filter and are listening on an otherwise clear segment of the band with a
> single relatively weak signal in the centre of the passband, try widening
> from 400Hz to 450Hz, in my case switching to the 2.1kHz filter. If you
> still believe there is no reason for the narrower filter, IMHO you need
> your hearing checked [no offense intended]. Or try telling the K3 that it's
> really a 500Hz filter and do the same from 500 to 550Hz, same effect.
>
> Personally I have not had any need for anything narrower than 400Hz,
> although I would love a 200Hz filter if there was room for 6, but my lineup
> is FM, AM 6kHz, 2.7, 2.1, 400, so I don't have room for any more.
>
> 73, Thomas M0TRN
>
> On 5 July 2012 16:51, Vic K2VCO  wrote:
>
>> The ONLY time you need a narrower filter is when there is a signal that is
>> about S9+20 or
>> greater that is outside the DSP bandwidth that you have selected but still
>> within the
>> bandwidth of the selected filter.
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3

[Don Wilhelm]

Cameron,

The first thing is to determine whether you have a problem with the 
counter probe or with the PLL reference oscillator.  Plug the probe into 
TP2 and expect a reading close to 4913 to 4916 kHz.  If that is true, 
the the probe is OK.

If the probe is good, then check the PLL crystal.  It should be a 12,096 
mHz crystal.
I do not know why it would oscillate at 1817 kHz, that has no 
relationship to the proper frequency.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/5/2012 12:47 PM, Cameron Haines wrote:
> Good morning,
>
> I finally have my probe setup. Here is my readings which seem way off.
>
> 4 Mhz Oscillator Calibration = 1817.00 which should be reading 12090 +/- 30 
> kHz per manual
>
> PLL Reference Range Test
>
> Seems correct range but frequency is wrong as with Osc calibration.
>
> VCO Test
>   
> 3 - 4 kHz as opposed to 8 - 10 Mhz.
>
> Any thoughts were I have gone wrong?
>
> Thanks,
> Cameron
> AE5UZ
>
>
> 
>   From: Cameron Haines 
> To: David Moorman 
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>   
>
> Great suggestion. I can hear it a 4Mhz now.. from my Softrock SDR. Wonder why 
> the Freq counters couldn't pick it up however. hmm.
>
> Thanks David!
>
>
> 
>   From: David Moorman 
> To: Cameron Haines 
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
>   
> Do you have a receiver you can listen on to see if the oscillator is actually 
> oscillating?
>
> Dave K9SW
>
>
>
> On Jul 3, 2012, at 6:41 PM, Cameron Haines  wrote:
>
>> Correction.
>>
>>
>> Hey Guys,
>>
>> Well, I am at the part where I need to test the 4 MHz oscillator calibration 
>> and ran into a snag. I am not getting anything on two different frequency 
>> counters when connected to TP3. Test up to this point have been good. 
>> Checked all the components around X1 and all look correct. No error message 
>> on startup.
>>
>> Any ideas where to go from here?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Cameron
>> AE5UZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3

[Cameron Haines]

Good morning,

I finally have my probe setup. Here is my readings which seem way off.

4 Mhz Oscillator Calibration = 1817.00 which should be reading 12090 +/- 30 kHz 
per manual

PLL Reference Range Test

Seems correct range but frequency is wrong as with Osc calibration.

VCO Test
 
3 - 4 kHz as opposed to 8 - 10 Mhz.

Any thoughts were I have gone wrong?

Thanks,
Cameron 
AE5UZ



 From: Cameron Haines 
To: David Moorman  
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
 

Great suggestion. I can hear it a 4Mhz now.. from my Softrock SDR. Wonder why 
the Freq counters couldn't pick it up however. hmm.

Thanks David!



 From: David Moorman 
To: Cameron Haines  
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2  Alignment and Test, Part II - No signal on TP3
 
Do you have a receiver you can listen on to see if the oscillator is actually 
oscillating?  

Dave K9SW



On Jul 3, 2012, at 6:41 PM, Cameron Haines  wrote:

> Correction.
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> Well, I am at the part where I need to test the 4 MHz oscillator calibration 
> and ran into a snag. I am not getting anything on two different frequency 
> counters when connected to TP3. Test up to this point have been good. Checked 
> all the components around X1 and all look correct. No error message on 
> startup. 
> 
> Any ideas where to go from here?
> 
> Thanks,
> Cameron
> AE5UZ
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 & RTTY with K3 and SignaLink USB

[Terry Schieler]

Thanks Bill.  Yes, I knew the outboard sound card was not necessary, but had it 
on hand and like the other data modes in the various software programs 
available.  Also, I have no immediate plans to take my K3 to the field.  Yes, 
using the "line In" on the rear of the radio.  I am hoping that once set, the 
K3 needs no additional resetting when going from PSK to RTTY and the ALC 
setting automatically reverts back to the voice setting without further effort 
on the ops part.


73,

Terry, W0FM



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of nr4c
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 11:06 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 & RTTY with K3 and SignaLink USB

Yes, follow the direction of Elecraft on using the Elecraft K3, K2, or KX3.  
Set the audio drive to the level that produces 4 bars with the fifth one 
blinking.  ALC does not happen until the fifth bar.  The first four bars are 
audio level and 4 bars are required to produce proper TX signal.  Now set the 
power to whatever setting you want via the PWR knob on the K3.  You are using 
LINE IN on the rear of the radio for input, I hope.  You also should set that 
port to LIN IN, not MIC.  Check the manual on this as I am away from my radio 
and did this a long time ago.

I do not use the SignaLink with my K3.  I just connect two stereo cable from 
the LIN IN/LIN OUT to the computer sound card, and it works just fine.  Never 
saw a need for the SL-USB with this radio.  I know, it frees up the sound card 
in the computer, but this computer is ONLY used for ham radio so that's not an 
issue in my shack.  YMMV.

Hope this helps, good luck!

...bill  nr4c

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 10:55:35 -0500, Terry Schieler wrote:
> I have a SignaLink USB external soundcard that I have used 
> successfully for years with my former rig (FT1000MP).  Got around to 
> hooking it up to the K3 (#474) a couple weeks ago but still don't seem 
> to have it right.  I have the K3 jumper plug and the SignaLink K3 
> cable.  There appears to be some conflict in the instructions from 
> Tigertronics for the SignaLink device and those provided for operating 
> Data Mode (Data A) with the K3.  I understand that in using Data A, 
> the K3's compression is turned off automatically.  But the SignaLink 
> documentation says turn the transmitter power to full output.  The K3 
> instructions say to set output power lower on the K3 (25 or 30 watts) 
> which is all I have ever used with data modes.  Tigertronics says that 
> the TX control pot on the front of the SignaLink becomes the output 
> power (drive) adjustment for the transmitter.  That isn't happening.
> And while the K3 automatically shuts down the compression mode, I'm 
> wondering if it should also save  the PO per mode and band.  I have 
> been through the K3 Data Mode section of the manual as well as Fred's 
> (KE7X) fine expansion book and just get more confused.
>
> Any SignaLink USB - K3 veterans have any thoughts on what I'm missing 
> in the setup?
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Terry, W0FM
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 & RTTY with K3 and SignaLink USB

[Gerald Manthey]

Oh PS :
Make sure you have it set for PSK under data mode, it changes for RTTY too.
 On Jul 5, 2012 11:08 AM, "Gerald Manthey"  wrote:

> I run the Signalink USB to my K3.
> In data mode the knobs on the Signalink are around 10 o'clock. I then set
> the power to 25 watts on the K3.
> Works great. Other modes such as CW the Signalink stays the same and I
> just adjust the power on the K3. Compression is always off. The main issue
> I had was getting the ALC set. Put radio in test mode and set levels to
> where the 5th bar just flickers on and off. Put back in normal transmit and
> you should be good.
> You can message me off list if you need any other tips or want to attempt
> contact when it is set up. Mine works great. Good luck and have fun.
> Gerald - KC6CNN
> On Jul 5, 2012 10:55 AM, "Terry Schieler" 
> wrote:
>
>> I have a SignaLink USB external soundcard that I have used successfully
>> for years with my former rig (FT1000MP).  Got around to hooking it up to
>> the K3 (#474) a couple weeks ago but still don't seem to have it right.  I
>> have the K3 jumper plug and the SignaLink K3 cable.  There appears to be
>> some conflict in the instructions from Tigertronics for the SignaLink
>> device and those provided for operating Data Mode (Data A) with the K3.  I
>> understand that in using Data A, the K3's compression is turned off
>> automatically.  But the SignaLink documentation says turn the transmitter
>> power to full output.  The K3 instructions say to set output power lower on
>> the K3 (25 or 30 watts) which is all I have ever used with data modes.
>>  Tigertronics says that the TX control pot on the front of the SignaLink
>> becomes the output power (drive) adjustment for the transmitter.  That
>> isn't happening.  And while the K3 automatically shuts down the compression
>> mode, I'm wondering if it should also save
>>  the PO per mode and band.  I have been through the K3 Data Mode section
>> of the manual as well as Fred's (KE7X) fine expansion book and just get
>> more confused.
>>
>> Any SignaLink USB - K3 veterans have any thoughts on what I'm missing in
>> the setup?
>>
>> Thanks and 73,
>>
>> Terry, W0FM
>>
>>
>>
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 & RTTY with K3 and SignaLink USB

[nr4c]

Yes, follow the direction of Elecraft on using the Elecraft K3, K2, or 
KX3.  Set the audio drive to the level that produces 4 bars with the 
fifth one blinking.  ALC does not happen until the fifth bar.  The first 
four bars are audio level and 4 bars are required to produce proper TX 
signal.  Now set the power to whatever setting you want via the PWR knob 
on the K3.  You are using LINE IN on the rear of the radio for input, I 
hope.  You also should set that port to LIN IN, not MIC.  Check the 
manual on this as I am away from my radio and did this a long time ago.

I do not use the SignaLink with my K3.  I just connect two stereo cable 
from the LIN IN/LIN OUT to the computer sound card, and it works just 
fine.  Never saw a need for the SL-USB with this radio.  I know, it 
frees up the sound card in the computer, but this computer is ONLY used 
for ham radio so that's not an issue in my shack.  YMMV.

Hope this helps, good luck!

...bill  nr4c

On Thu, 5 Jul 2012 10:55:35 -0500, Terry Schieler wrote:
> I have a SignaLink USB external soundcard that I have used
> successfully for years with my former rig (FT1000MP).  Got around to
> hooking it up to the K3 (#474) a couple weeks ago but still don't 
> seem
> to have it right.  I have the K3 jumper plug and the SignaLink K3
> cable.  There appears to be some conflict in the instructions from
> Tigertronics for the SignaLink device and those provided for 
> operating
> Data Mode (Data A) with the K3.  I understand that in using Data A,
> the K3's compression is turned off automatically.  But the SignaLink
> documentation says turn the transmitter power to full output.  The K3
> instructions say to set output power lower on the K3 (25 or 30 watts)
> which is all I have ever used with data modes.  Tigertronics says 
> that
> the TX control pot on the front of the SignaLink becomes the output
> power (drive) adjustment for the transmitter.  That isn't happening.
> And while the K3 automatically shuts down the compression mode, I'm
> wondering if it should also save
>  the PO per mode and band.  I have been through the K3 Data Mode
> section of the manual as well as Fred's (KE7X) fine expansion book 
> and
> just get more confused.
>
> Any SignaLink USB - K3 veterans have any thoughts on what I'm missing
> in the setup?
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Terry, W0FM
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 & RTTY with K3 and SignaLink USB

[Gerald Manthey]

I run the Signalink USB to my K3.
In data mode the knobs on the Signalink are around 10 o'clock. I then set
the power to 25 watts on the K3.
Works great. Other modes such as CW the Signalink stays the same and I just
adjust the power on the K3. Compression is always off. The main issue I had
was getting the ALC set. Put radio in test mode and set levels to where the
5th bar just flickers on and off. Put back in normal transmit and you
should be good.
You can message me off list if you need any other tips or want to attempt
contact when it is set up. Mine works great. Good luck and have fun.
Gerald - KC6CNN
On Jul 5, 2012 10:55 AM, "Terry Schieler" 
wrote:

> I have a SignaLink USB external soundcard that I have used successfully
> for years with my former rig (FT1000MP).  Got around to hooking it up to
> the K3 (#474) a couple weeks ago but still don't seem to have it right.  I
> have the K3 jumper plug and the SignaLink K3 cable.  There appears to be
> some conflict in the instructions from Tigertronics for the SignaLink
> device and those provided for operating Data Mode (Data A) with the K3.  I
> understand that in using Data A, the K3's compression is turned off
> automatically.  But the SignaLink documentation says turn the transmitter
> power to full output.  The K3 instructions say to set output power lower on
> the K3 (25 or 30 watts) which is all I have ever used with data modes.
>  Tigertronics says that the TX control pot on the front of the SignaLink
> becomes the output power (drive) adjustment for the transmitter.  That
> isn't happening.  And while the K3 automatically shuts down the compression
> mode, I'm wondering if it should also save
>  the PO per mode and band.  I have been through the K3 Data Mode section
> of the manual as well as Fred's (KE7X) fine expansion book and just get
> more confused.
>
> Any SignaLink USB - K3 veterans have any thoughts on what I'm missing in
> the setup?
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Terry, W0FM
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 interal battery charger

[JP O'Connor]

The balance charging operation requires access to each cell and requires a
smart charger that is appropriately programmed for the specific chemistry
and for the balance operation. The idea is to be sure that each cell is
properly and fully charged without overcharging or damaging any of the
other cells in the pack. This is quite common with the all the various
lithium chemistries, and when using NiCd or NiMh smart chargers that charge
each cell independently. Most of the inexpensive consumer NiCd
and/or NiMh chargers do not treat each cell independently. Only the more
expensive models include the test/refresh modes. Although NiCd and NiMh
cells are often overcharged by many slow chargers, apparently that is not
the best practice when performed on a regular basis. Thus, the smart
chargers.

If I am understanding correctly, a PbAcid (e.g. SLA) equalize charge
operation does not have access to each cell and instead is an operation
that uses a carefully controlled "overcharge" function, within the safe
"operating envelope" of the battery, to bring up the lagging cells without
damaging the stronger cells.

It sounds like equalize and balance are two different operations, intended
for different cell chemistry and charging styles.

Starting with a fresh set of Eneloop (white label 1,900 mAh or black XX
label 2,500 mAh) or other brand of "pre-charged" or low self-discharge
(LSD) NiMh batteries that have had at least one test/refresh cycle
performed, the need for removing the batteries from the KX3 for a
test/refresh cycle should be VERY infrequent as long as they are not abused
significantly. As Jim mentioned, hopefully this won't be too often. Who
knows, even with heavy use, maybe the batteries won't need to be removed
for over a year - or two. Yes, Greg, I plan to do things exactly as you
stated: check after a few months, but then pretty much leave them alone in
the radio for a long while as I see how things work out. I will be
interested to hear from folks here on the reflector as experience is gained.

With the traditional non-LSD high capacity NiMh batteries, the need for
test/refresh may be a bit more frequent. For example, the Energizer 2600
mAh (?) AA cells are notorious for extremely rapid self-discharge and may
need a bit more care and feeding.
72/73 de JP WF4Z


On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 3:25 PM, Greg Troxel  wrote:

>
> In "balance" vs "equalize", I also hear about equalization charge to 12V
> SLA batteries without access to individual cells.  PbAcid cells have a
> higher charge/discharge marginal ratio as they get full, so a mild
> overcharge should tend to cause all cells to be fully charged.  NiMH is
> almost certainly similar, especially during low-rate overcharge as is
> typical, so I'd expect that all cells end up full.
>
> To understand the KXBC3 behavior, it seems that one should use a Maha
> C9000 or equivalent to measure/record the capacity ("refresh/analyze")
> of all the cells, and then put then in the KX3 and use them for a while,
> and then when the KX3 says they are charged pull them and do a discharge
> measurement followed by a refresh/analyze.  I'll report back later :-)
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[Thomas Horsten]

Vic,

You may say this and it may be true in theory, but if you have a 400Hz
filter and are listening on an otherwise clear segment of the band with a
single relatively weak signal in the centre of the passband, try widening
from 400Hz to 450Hz, in my case switching to the 2.1kHz filter. If you
still believe there is no reason for the narrower filter, IMHO you need
your hearing checked [no offense intended]. Or try telling the K3 that it's
really a 500Hz filter and do the same from 500 to 550Hz, same effect.

Personally I have not had any need for anything narrower than 400Hz,
although I would love a 200Hz filter if there was room for 6, but my lineup
is FM, AM 6kHz, 2.7, 2.1, 400, so I don't have room for any more.

73, Thomas M0TRN

On 5 July 2012 16:51, Vic K2VCO  wrote:

> The ONLY time you need a narrower filter is when there is a signal that is
> about S9+20 or
> greater that is outside the DSP bandwidth that you have selected but still
> within the
> bandwidth of the selected filter.
>
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[Elecraft] [K3] PSK31 & RTTY with K3 and SignaLink USB

[Terry Schieler]

I have a SignaLink USB external soundcard that I have used successfully for 
years with my former rig (FT1000MP).  Got around to hooking it up to the K3 
(#474) a couple weeks ago but still don't seem to have it right.  I have the K3 
jumper plug and the SignaLink K3 cable.  There appears to be some conflict in 
the instructions from Tigertronics for the SignaLink device and those provided 
for operating Data Mode (Data A) with the K3.  I understand that in using Data 
A, the K3's compression is turned off automatically.  But the SignaLink 
documentation says turn the transmitter power to full output.  The K3 
instructions say to set output power lower on the K3 (25 or 30 watts) which is 
all I have ever used with data modes.  Tigertronics says that the TX control 
pot on the front of the SignaLink becomes the output power (drive) adjustment 
for the transmitter.  That isn't happening.  And while the K3 automatically 
shuts down the compression mode, I'm wondering if it should also save 
 the PO per mode and band.  I have been through the K3 Data Mode section of the 
manual as well as Fred's (KE7X) fine expansion book and just get more confused. 
 

Any SignaLink USB - K3 veterans have any thoughts on what I'm missing in the 
setup?

Thanks and 73,

Terry, W0FM



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[Vic K2VCO]

I get the feeling from reading all of these messages that most of the writers 
do not 
understand the function of the filters in the K3. I know that AC7AC, W3FPR and 
others have 
explained it, but it doesn't seem to sink in.

The ONLY time you need a narrower filter is when there is a signal that is 
about S9+20 or 
greater that is outside the DSP bandwidth that you have selected but still 
within the 
bandwidth of the selected filter.

So if you have a 2.8 kHz filter and you have your DSP bandwidth set to 200 Hz 
then unless 
there is a *very* loud signal that is within 2.8 kHz, it will not be much 
different from 
what you would hear with a 200 Hz filter.

I say 'much' because the effect of concatenating the DSP and the sharp filter 
will change 
the shape of the bandpass a little.

I always advise CW operators to get the 400 Hz filter. Situations in which they 
will need 
a sharper one will be rare.

On 7/5/2012 12:03 AM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:
> Don,
>
> It seems that  you are an experienced CW op.
> See the selection of filters no different from other transceivers where
> xtal filters determine the BW.. Just pick your favourite BWs.
>
> For CW I have 400Hz en 200Hz in main RX  and 400Hz in SubRx to enable
> diversity mode.
> I use the 400Hz filter 99% of the time. The 200Hz only comes into play
> when I need to dig a signal out, often in combo with the APF.
>
> 73
> Arie PA3A
>
> Op 5-7-2012 1:36, Don KB1YBG schreef:
>I've been following P3, 2nd Rcvr here but am not ready for those yet.
>My question is 1) best filters for CW and 2) any other must-have
> options. I've read Wayne's article about filter selection but still
> unsure. It seems the 400 and 250 may be close to same and 1000 and 400 a
> better choice. Or 500 5-pole? I'll be adding Sec Rx so what about filter
> matching? 73, Don,  KB1YBG
>
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-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - The rectangular hole on the back of KX3

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

No change to the bottom cover, Bruce. The heat sink mounts using the four
holes that are already present: one at each end and two for the transistors.


73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

It would appear that the heat sink was added after the first several
production units went out. I would wonder whether the early models have the
holes in the bottom cover to accept the heat sink? If not, a bottom cover
would be needed also. To be sure, I would ask this question when
corresponding with Elecraft. I would also ask if longer screws are needed
for the PA transistors.
 
GL, Bruce, N1RX
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[GDanner]

I ordered my sub-receiver with the 2.7 filter even though my main had the 
2.8 (my error when ordering the sub-receiver well after the original  K3).
I experimented a bit and found by setting the offsets for both filters half 
way between the 2 filters solved the wa-wa issue without any noticeable loss 
in fidelity. I do realize that the skirts are not ideal but the compromise 
does not seem to be audible.
If the user is mostly CW then I would use this method if you don't want the 
additional cost of matched 2.7s or 2.8s.
I regularly use diversity on a net and do not have an issue when the 2.7/2.8 
filters are selected. Obviously they are not exact but neither are the H & V 
signals.

George
AI4VZ

-Original Message- 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2012 9:54 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW


> As for filters, I think I'll go with the 8-pole 400 and upgrade the
> 2.7 to the 2.8. It is my understanding that the 8-poles have zero
> offset and thus I can add these to the sub in the future without
> matching issues.

I went the 2.8, 400, 200 route in the main RX and 2.8, 400 only in
the sub RX.  If I had it to do over I would probably not bother to
"upgrade" the standard 2.7 KHz filters to 2.8.  The 2.7 is wide
enough than one can "split the difference" in order to maintain
phase lock in diversity.  If one absolutely needs better skirt
performance in a wider filter, adding the 1.8 KHz provides added
flexibility at very little added cost (replacing 2.7 with 2.8 is
$129.95, purchasing the 1.8 or 2.8 outright is only 139.95!).

73,

... Joe, W4TV



On 7/4/2012 9:15 PM, Don KB1YBG wrote:
> Hi All,
> Thanks for all the great info.  Just what I was looking for.  As suggested
> I'll scrap the dvr and add the KXV3A.  Who knows, I may add a P3 someday 
> but
> would like to put up a receive antenna soon.  I have it on the K2 but have
> not used it.  As for filters, I think I'll go with the 8-pole 400 and
> upgrade the 2.7 to the 2.8.  It is my understanding that the 8-poles have
> zero offset and thus I can add these to the sub in the future without
> matching issues.
>
> I still have to study all the info you've provided but sounds great.
>
> Thanks and 73,
> Don
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-for-CW-tp7558622p7558628.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Bluetooth and RF

[Matt Zilmer]

Hi Thomas,

Consider that BT is often used in smart phones, usually as a headset
or hands-free link.  If the phone is GSM, power levels of 2-3 W are
common when getting connected to a new BTS (base station), upon
handover or at  power on, to get connected to the cell network.

BT and its antenna are in very close proximity to the antenna of the
phone itself, so such a design *can* be done and often is.  Worldwide
cellular frequencies include 800-900 MHz, 1.8, 1.9, and 2.1 GHz
(others?).  The upper ones are close-in to 2.4 GHz, BT's range.
Somehow, designers keep the two from interfering with each other.

Most phones use a diplexer (I think...) to do the obvious, but I'd
also think that frequency separation of BT from some of the bands
makes this redundant.  And most phones actually use separate antennas
for their several functions (GPS in L-band, GSM in whatever band, BT
and WiFi in the 2.4 GHz band).

More problems might occur from RFI getting into the digital control
side than from anything analog.  Still, the KX3 is well shielded and
using a good coax with no radiation from the braid would be advised
(use a balun or a resonant antenna).  I agree that your HF antenna's
proximity to the accessory might be the biggest problem with RFI.

matt W6NIA
KX3 #6 / FT

On Thu, 05 Jul 2012 12:05:43 +0100, you wrote:

>Hi guys,
>
>I know it's a bit off-topic but there are so many knowledgeable people here
>that I thought I'll try asking. I've built a multifunction CW keyer with a
>straight key, paddle, and keyboard input, that uses an AVR microcontroller.
>Currently I'm using PS/2 for the keyboard input as it's easy to implement
>in the AVR (and a cheap $2 adapter allows the use of USB keyboards).
>
>But for taking on the road with my KX3 (which is stuck in customs since
>Monday but should hopefully be with me soon), I'd like to use an
>ultra-compact Bluetooth keyboard, of the type used with smartphones. I am
>considering doing this by adding a Bluegiga WT12 Bluetooth module (which
>has an UART interface that can talk to the AVR).
>
>Before I begin on this I'd like to know how well Bluetooth can be expected
>to work in a RF-filled environment (at up to 10W but with the antenna very
>close, as in portable operations). It'd be a shame to get everything built
>only to find out that the Bluetooth connection dies every time I transmit.
>Has anyone got experience with this and/or other comments/ideas?
>
>73, Thomas M0TRN
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - The rectangular hole on the back of KX3

[Bruce Beford]

It would appear that the heat sink was added after the first several
production units went out. I would wonder whether the early models have the
holes in the bottom cover to accept the heat sink? If not, a bottom cover
would be needed also. To be sure, I would ask this question when
corresponding with Elecraft. I would also ask if longer screws are needed
for the PA transistors.
 
GL, Bruce, N1RX
 
> Yes,  send to parts at elecraft.com
  and request he KX3 heat
sink.
 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
 
On 7/5/2012 3:23 AM, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> I have KX3-F with Serial #029.
> I have also the same question; what is the empty rectangular hole on the
> back of my KX3 which I can see the inside of the KX3 clearly?
> Is my KX3 missing the rear heat sink? Do I need to do something for that?
> 73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH

 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Help to find rotator part

[Ian Kahn]

Dave,

Maybe I'm missing the obvious, but did you contact Yaesu North America and
see if they would sell you the pot you're looking for?  The contact info is
on their web site.

73,

--Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team


On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 4:38 PM, Dave Lankshear  wrote:

> Hi folks.  Apologies for the bandwidth, especially today, but I wonder if
> anyone can help me locate a 500 ohm pot that's used for direction
> indication
> in the Yaesu G-400RC rotator?  I've been on a search mission now for quite
> a
> while and have achieved a 100% failure record thus far.  In the instruction
> manual for the G-400, it's item 6 in the list of parts on page 14.  The pot
> in the rotator is the same as the one in the RC, the round controller.
>
>
>
> Maybe there's one in a junkbox somewhere, or a dealer has one lying around?
> I'd really be most grateful.
>
>
>
> Thanks & 73.  Dave G3TJP
>
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Re: [Elecraft] using Proset-K2 with KX3

[nr4c]

Go into the MENU and look for MIC BTN or something similar.  Turn them 
OFF.  The middle two rings on the 4-way plug are for the UP/DN Buttons 
on the mic and PTT.  Your 3-way plug is shorting the PTT to ground.  
Turn OFF the buttons, and you Proset will work fine using XMIT or VOX.

...bill  nr4c

On Wed, 04 Jul 2012 22:59:52 -0500, David F. Reed wrote:
> I must be doing something wrong, but I can't seem to use my Proset-K2
> with my KX3...
>
> The headphones work fine, but plugging the microphone into the mic 
> input
> puts the KX3 into transmit mode; I had expected to use the XMIT 
> button
> on the KX3 to transmit.
>
> Ideas?
>
> 73 de Dave, W5SV
>
>
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[Elecraft] [OT] Bluetooth and RF

[Thomas Horsten]

Hi guys,

I know it's a bit off-topic but there are so many knowledgeable people here
that I thought I'll try asking. I've built a multifunction CW keyer with a
straight key, paddle, and keyboard input, that uses an AVR microcontroller.
Currently I'm using PS/2 for the keyboard input as it's easy to implement
in the AVR (and a cheap $2 adapter allows the use of USB keyboards).

But for taking on the road with my KX3 (which is stuck in customs since
Monday but should hopefully be with me soon), I'd like to use an
ultra-compact Bluetooth keyboard, of the type used with smartphones. I am
considering doing this by adding a Bluegiga WT12 Bluetooth module (which
has an UART interface that can talk to the AVR).

Before I begin on this I'd like to know how well Bluetooth can be expected
to work in a RF-filled environment (at up to 10W but with the antenna very
close, as in portable operations). It'd be a shame to get everything built
only to find out that the Bluetooth connection dies every time I transmit.
Has anyone got experience with this and/or other comments/ideas?

73, Thomas M0TRN
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Re: [Elecraft] using Proset-K2 with KX3

[David F. Reed]

Thanks Lyle, that did the trick...

73 de Dave, W5SV

On 7/5/12 12:24 AM, Lyle Johnson wrote:
> Check the manual and menu items for MIC BTN (mic button).
>
> 73,
>
> Lyle KK7P
>
>> ...It is just this go to XMIT when plugged in (and stays there) is 
>> what is
>> getting to me...
>


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Re: [Elecraft] OT Help to find rotator part

[Fred Smith]

You need to post this on the Yaesu reflector or call Yaesu in CA. and find
out if one is even available in JA. They have always repaired all of my
rotors at Yaesu and I have always had good luck there. If it's very old a
new one may be in order, once you have a Yaesu it's hard to go back to one
of the US made ones I have found just a better rotor.

73,

Fred/N0AZZ




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Townsend
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2012 11:42 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT Help to find rotator part

Dave I am not familiar with the Yaesu brand rotor. If it is like the
American brand rotors (or perhaps made by an American company for Yaesu) the
pot is non-standard. I would check with an Alliance brand repair manual and
see if the parts are similar. Parts for most American rotors are available
online.
73, Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave Lankshear
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2012 1:38 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] OT Help to find rotator part

Hi folks.  Apologies for the bandwidth, especially today, but I wonder if
anyone can help me locate a 500 ohm pot that's used for direction indication
in the Yaesu G-400RC rotator?  I've been on a search mission now for quite a
while and have achieved a 100% failure record thus far.  In the instruction
manual for the G-400, it's item 6 in the list of parts on page 14.  The pot
in the rotator is the same as the one in the RC, the round controller.

 

Maybe there's one in a junkbox somewhere, or a dealer has one lying around?
I'd really be most grateful.

 

Thanks & 73.  Dave G3TJP

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2437/5109 - Release Date: 07/03/12

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - The rectangular hole on the back of KX3

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes,  send to pa...@elecraft.com and request he KX3 heat sink.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/5/2012 3:23 AM, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> I have KX3-F with Serial #029.
> I have also the same question; what is the empty rectangular hole on the
> back of my KX3 which I can see the inside of the KX3 clearly?
> Is my KX3 missing the rear heat sink? Do I need to do something for that?
> 73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH
>
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[Elecraft] KX3 - The rectangular hole on the back of KX3

[Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH]

Hi everybody,
I have KX3-F with Serial #029.
I have also the same question; what is the empty rectangular hole on the 
back of my KX3 which I can see the inside of the KX3 clearly?
Is my KX3 missing the rear heat sink? Do I need to do something for that?
73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 for CW

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Don,

It seems that  you are an experienced CW op.
See the selection of filters no different from other transceivers where 
xtal filters determine the BW.. Just pick your favourite BWs.

For CW I have 400Hz en 200Hz in main RX  and 400Hz in SubRx to enable 
diversity mode.
I use the 400Hz filter 99% of the time. The 200Hz only comes into play 
when I need to dig a signal out, often in combo with the APF.

73
Arie PA3A

Op 5-7-2012 1:36, Don KB1YBG schreef:
  I've been following P3, 2nd Rcvr here but am not ready for those yet. 
  My question is 1) best filters for CW and 2) any other must-have 
options. I've read Wayne's article about filter selection but still 
unsure. It seems the 400 and 250 may be close to same and 1000 and 400 a 
better choice. Or 500 5-pole? I'll be adding Sec Rx so what about filter 
matching? 73, Don,  KB1YBG

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