Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 presentation for a club?

2013-04-08 Thread David Christ
I have a daughter in Norway and send things back and forth all the time.  If 
you are sending mp3 files copied onto a thumb drive there should be no problem 
as long as the drive is formatted FAT32.  All common systems can read those.  
Mac can read but not write NTFS.  Windows cannot read Mac OS.  I have burned 
DVDs and used them on both Windows and OS X.

It is true that video DVDs are sometimes have a region code: Roughly 1 - 
America, 2- Europe, 3 elsewhere.  With rare exceptions any player or computer 
only plays one region or those with no code.  The code is so movie countries 
can control when a region is able to get a movie and so they can't be sent from 
one region to another.

That said there is no duty on CDs or DVDs.  I have gone through customs with as 
many as 200 CDs at one time.  These were commercial CDs so there was no issues 
about copyright.  Certain software is subject to export control but for MP3 
files the only issue would be copyright which I doubt would be raised. 

As for stamps - both the domestic and global forever stamps are good for only 
one ounce - except the global stamp is good for 2 ounces to Canada.  Two ounces 
to England is $2.25 if it contains a rigid object.  The really bad news is that 
an envelope containing a thumb drive more than 1/4 inch thick may well be 
classed as a large envelope and 2 ounces to England is $6.55.  Also since the 
letter will contain items other than documents you may need to attach a customs 
declaration.  This is no biggie as you just call it a thumb drive and check the 
gift box.  It should be duty free.  However you will need to use an envelope 
that is large enough for the stamp, address and customs form.  This may 
increase your weight.  At 3 ounces the price is $3.20 AND $9.55.  

Disclaimer:  With a daughter and grandchildren overseas we send a lot of mail 
and packages.  The above is based on my experiences and reading of USPS 
regulations.  Your post office may tell you different.

David K0LUM


On Apr 8, 2013, at 1:28 AM, David Cutter wrote:

> Fred
> 
> Well, that's quite a story and thank you for sharing it with us.  I can 
> clearly see your logic  and it makes me want to acquire your library for my 
> club even more, given the added value you describe.  
> 
> There is probably a category of import - export regulations that covers 
> lending services to avoid tax but I've a feeling that we might be below a 
> threshold, so, I'll just take a chance with that.  
> 
> I'm not sure, but I think DVDs have some regional aspect and one recorded in 
> the US might not work on a European machine.  Posting discs is a very 
> convenient package but a thumb drive beats it on capacity, so: thumb drive it 
> is.
> 
> I'll use your address in QRZ.com.
> 
> Thanks again
> 
> David
> G3UNA
> 
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Fred Townsend 
>  To: 'David Cutter' 
>  Cc: Elecraft Mail List 
>  Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 11:13 PM
>  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 presentation for a club?
> 
> 
>  David:
> 
>  I am replying to the list because I have received similar offline requests 
> for K3 video download lists/URLs or better yet select download lists/URLs. 
> Let me explain some of the fallacies of those requests. 
> 
>  First my library consists of files, not URLs. The files were downloaded at 
> maxim resolution available and stored only as mp4 videos. Duplicate files 
> were removed. Multiple parts were combined. Whenever possible defects or 
> commercial insertions were edited out. Duplicated file names for dissimilar 
> files were renamed.  This means that searching the Internet for my file names 
> will only be partially successful. 
> 
>  In addition to the aforementioned name issues the idea of a select download 
> list begs the question, On what basis was the selection made? We are not all 
> of common purpose.
> 
>  My intentions were to first create a personal resource for creating various 
> training presentations which would culminate in the production of a menu 
> driven DVD. Since the material is intended for personal use, no investigation 
> of copyrights or other restrictions has been pursued. 
> 
>  In getting the material to John I first considered sending a raw DVD ROM to 
> him but I abandoned that idea when I saw I had more material than a one DVD 
> ROM would hold. Since a thumb drive is less than 2 ounces I can send it as 
> first class USPS postage for one forever stamp. At the time I had no idea 
> anyone on the other side of the big pond would want copies. I also have no 
> idea whether thumb drives can be freely transferred by international mail or 
> whether they might be subject to valuation, tariff, or valued added tax. I 
> would hope they would be treated like an international lending library 
> e-book, i.e. something that is sent out and returned shortly. Assuming costs 
> are reasonable I still consider thumb drives as faster than trying to 
> discover and download material which has taken me 

[Elecraft] Headphones $11.99

2013-04-08 Thread Fred Smith
Sorry should have put it in an attachment but it's there it's at newegg.com
48 hrs only 

 

 

 

73,

Fred/N0AZZ

K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100

P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2

 

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[Elecraft] PLL Reference Oscillator Range and VCO Test

2013-04-08 Thread Dickie M0AUW
Hi,
I’m currently assembling my K2 but am stuck on the PLL reference Oscillator
test.

In the frequency counter mode with the probe attached to TP3, I get a
reading of 12099.03 kHz, when pressing band + I get 1298.99, Pressing band –
I only get 00.467 to 00.475 changing rapidly. (Perhaps the probe is playing
up but seems to work with other tests?)

However, with an external frequency counter attached I get 12099.00 and no
change when pressing band +, but when pressing the – I get 11500 varying to
11700 at high speed.
I’ve checked solder joints around that area in particular at R19, RP2, L31,
D16 and D17 and at U6 pin 5 am getting 3.90 volts.

Also on the VCO test I am getting a reading of 7738.64 but I suspect this
will be out due to the PPL test?

Any help would be much appreciated – 73s Dick M0AUW




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Re: [Elecraft] PLL Reference Oscillator Range and VCO Test

2013-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dick,

If your internal probe works in TP2, then it is probably OK.

Good on the 3.9 volts at U6 pin 5, that part is encouraging, but it does 
not entirely rule out a problem with the Thermistor board.
Skip that for now and first check to see if the problem is in the 
digital side or the analog side of the DAC.  Try the following tests in 
order.


Monitor the voltage at U5 pin 7 while in CAL FCTR.  When you tap BAND+ 
it should go to 4 volts, and when you tap BAND-, it should go to zero 
volts.  If it does not do that, you probably have a problem on the 
digital inputs to U5.  Those come from the control board - check the 
soldering at U5 pins 1, 2, and 3, and CB U6 pins 19 and 24 as well as U8 
pin 10.


If RF U5 pin 7 tests good, move on to monitor U6 pin 1.  It should 
change from zero volts with BAND- to near 8 volts with BAND+.  If it 
does not check all the soldering on the back of the Thermistor board, 
especially checking for solder bridges.


If U6 pin 1 tests good, take a big step and monitor the voltage at the 
anodes of D17 and D17.  You should see the same voltage change as you 
did at U6 pin 1.  If not, check soldering and values for R19 and RP2.


If no problem was found in the tests above, then you have a problem with 
the PLL oscillator itself (Q19 circuit).  Check resistance to ground 
from the source of Q19.  If you do not see near 270 ohms, check the 
soldering of R20 and the lead stripping and tinning of RFC14.


No problem solved so far?  Check capacitors C84 and C85 to be absolutely 
certain they are 120 pF (marked 121).  The makings on those small blue 
bodied capacitors is very difficult to read and you may have to remove 
them and check under high magnification and a strong light.


If all the above is good, it should work.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/8/2013 6:37 AM, Dickie M0AUW wrote:

Hi,
I’m currently assembling my K2 but am stuck on the PLL reference Oscillator
test.

In the frequency counter mode with the probe attached to TP3, I get a
reading of 12099.03 kHz, when pressing band + I get 1298.99, Pressing band –
I only get 00.467 to 00.475 changing rapidly. (Perhaps the probe is playing
up but seems to work with other tests?)

However, with an external frequency counter attached I get 12099.00 and no
change when pressing band +, but when pressing the – I get 11500 varying to
11700 at high speed.
I’ve checked solder joints around that area in particular at R19, RP2, L31,
D16 and D17 and at U6 pin 5 am getting 3.90 volts.

Also on the VCO test I am getting a reading of 7738.64 but I suspect this
will be out due to the PPL test?

Any help would be much appreciated – 73s Dick M0AUW




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[Elecraft] K1 KFL1-4 Band indent

2013-04-08 Thread Stephen Roberts
I have a 4 band board for a K1 that I want to sell, but not sure what bands are 
on it. How can I identify which board this is? I'm pretty sure it's 40, 30, 20, 
15

Steve
W1SFR
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 KFL1-4 Band indent

2013-04-08 Thread Dale Putnam
Hi Steve,  The quickest for me is to count the turns in the toroids, cross 
check that info with the Xtal freq on the board. 

Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 

 > From: steve...@shoreham.net
> Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:50:02 -0400
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K1 KFL1-4 Band indent
> 
> I have a 4 band board for a K1 that I want to sell, but not sure what bands 
> are on it. How can I identify which board this is? I'm pretty sure it's 40, 
> 30, 20, 15
> 
> Steve
> W1SFR
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[Elecraft] K1 KFL1-4 40,30,20,15 board for sale

2013-04-08 Thread Stephen Roberts
I have an excess KFL4 K1 board  so it's got to go.

$100

Steve
W1SFR

paypal to steve...@shoreham.net
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery charging

2013-04-08 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)
And do not forget that the supplied voltage needs to be correct to 
charge the cells.


I use 2400 mAh cells (Sanyo Eneloop XX) without any problem.

As stated in the KXBC3 manual:
only NiMH cells rated at 1900 mAH or greater may be charged with the KXBC3.

As far as I know the voltage applied should be more than 13.5 volts. 
Using a standard lead-acid battery as a source will not work.


However I have tried to lower the voltage while charging. At 13.8 Volt 
the current drawn from my power supply is 330 mA. Initially I could sink 
the voltage to  12.7 Volt keeping 330 mA. Under that voltage, current 
dropped gradually and at 12.0 I got the "low supply" message on the KX3 
display. While charging, the voltage needed to be increased at times to 
maintain the 330 mA current flow and the "low supply" message showed at 
12.5 volt, which proves that you cannot get a full charge on that 
voltage level.


The bottom line is: Use a power supply that can deliver at least 0.5 
Amp. at 13.8 Volt as a "charge only" option.




73,
Peter - PA0PJE

Op 2013-04-06 21:22 schreef Matt Zilmer:

Any capacity NiMH cells are OK.  They will charge at the rate of 200
mA.  Your 1900's should charge from 0SOC to fully charged in about ten
hours.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 KFL1-4 Band indent

2013-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Steve,

You will have to check the crystal frequencies on the 4 band board. 
Hopefully the builder mounted them so all the crystal markings can be seen.


Look at X1 - if it is 29.000 MHz, it has 15 meters, but if the crystal 
is 26.050, it is built for 17 meters in place of 15.


Also the 30 meter crystal X3 should be checked to complete the story.  
If it is 18.000 MHz, the board was built to work in a K1 with a 150 kHz 
tuning range.  If it is 18.100 MHz, it was built to work in a K1 with an 
80 kHz tuning range.


If the buyer wants to change the top frequency band or the tuning range, 
crystals can be purchased from Elecraft - all that is necessary is to 
change the crystal(s) and re-align the bandpass filters.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/8/2013 9:50 AM, Stephen Roberts wrote:

I have a 4 band board for a K1 that I want to sell, but not sure what bands are 
on it. How can I identify which board this is? I'm pretty sure it's 40, 30, 20, 
15




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Battery charging

2013-04-08 Thread Matt Zilmer
Yes, 13.8VDC is required to charge.  The voltage drop has to be above
a certain value to properly regulate the charge voltage and current
level.

I had a set of 1750s that I put in the KX3 and charged.  They charged
faster than the nominal C/10 rate, but still charged up just fine.  I
think the 1900 mAH minimum is stated so that the charge rate is C/10
or less.  But lower capacity cells will also charge, just at a higher
rate.

I'm using a 9A variable switcher set to 13.9VDC output.  This PSU also
powers other loads.  It had to be "ferrited" half to death to kill the
switching harmonics.  :)

73,
matt W6NIA

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 16:22:35 +0200, you wrote:

>And do not forget that the supplied voltage needs to be correct to 
>charge the cells.
>
>I use 2400 mAh cells (Sanyo Eneloop XX) without any problem.
>
>As stated in the KXBC3 manual:
>only NiMH cells rated at 1900 mAH or greater may be charged with the KXBC3.
>
>As far as I know the voltage applied should be more than 13.5 volts. 
>Using a standard lead-acid battery as a source will not work.
>
>However I have tried to lower the voltage while charging. At 13.8 Volt 
>the current drawn from my power supply is 330 mA. Initially I could sink 
>the voltage to  12.7 Volt keeping 330 mA. Under that voltage, current 
>dropped gradually and at 12.0 I got the "low supply" message on the KX3 
>display. While charging, the voltage needed to be increased at times to 
>maintain the 330 mA current flow and the "low supply" message showed at 
>12.5 volt, which proves that you cannot get a full charge on that 
>voltage level.
>
>The bottom line is: Use a power supply that can deliver at least 0.5 
>Amp. at 13.8 Volt as a "charge only" option.
>
>
>
>73,
>Peter - PA0PJE
>
>Op 2013-04-06 21:22 schreef Matt Zilmer:
>> Any capacity NiMH cells are OK.  They will charge at the rate of 200
>> mA.  Your 1900's should charge from 0SOC to fully charged in about ten
>> hours.
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Re: [Elecraft] Headphones $11.99

2013-04-08 Thread Scott Manthe
They're the Sennheiser HD201S: 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826106636&Tpk=Sennheiser%20HD201S&IsVirtualParent=1


I bought two when they were on sale for $12.99. They are incredible set 
of headphones for the price. I find the reproduction pretty accurate and 
not nearly as "bassy" as the description copy would have you believe.


73,
Scott, N9AA



On 4/8/13 6:25 AM, Fred Smith wrote:

Sorry should have put it in an attachment but it's there it's at newegg.com
48 hrs only

  

  

  


73,

Fred/N0AZZ

K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100

P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2

  



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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

2013-04-08 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Hi Dale, 

Most USB thumb drives are supported.  For example I am using both name
brands like Sandisk as well as cheapo no-name eBay specials, which work
fine.A few drives do not work, and unfortunately the only way to tell if
one works is to plug it in.  The capacity should not matter.Just
curious, what brand and model are the ones you are trying?  Maybe try a
different brand.   Also note that the SVGA USB port does not support hubs.  
If you're still having trouble, give me a call at the factory. 

73, 

Paul




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[Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Vic K2VCO

I know there are those on this list who can help me.

I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week for a half hour to 
charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 10 years! The present 
battery is about 2 years old.


Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery dead. I took the 
battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it overnight and tested it 
under load. They said the battery was OK. When I started the generator and checked the 
charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it.


Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no load was 11.5V. I 
left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. 
The generator started up and the charging voltage was 14.5V.


Do I have a bad battery?

--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] Headphones $11.99

2013-04-08 Thread Dave Lankshear
Bummer!  They only ship to continental US, Puerto Rico and APO.

 

Ah well, I guess I have enough sets of headphones, anyway.

 

UK guys, any recommendations for small, amplified, mains-driven speakers for
the KX3, please?

 

73 all.  Dave, G3TJP

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

2013-04-08 Thread Wright, Robert
What about the drive formatting?  I'm guessing NTFS is not supported.  What 
about FAT16 vs. FAT32?

73, Bob N7ZO

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Saffren N6HZ
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 8:55 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

Hi Dale, 

Most USB thumb drives are supported.  For example I am using both name brands 
like Sandisk as well as cheapo no-name eBay specials, which work
fine.A few drives do not work, and unfortunately the only way to tell if
one works is to plug it in.  The capacity should not matter.Just
curious, what brand and model are the ones you are trying?  Maybe try a
different brand.   Also note that the SVGA USB port does not support hubs.  
If you're still having trouble, give me a call at the factory. 

73, 

Paul




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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

2013-04-08 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Bob, 

Correct, the file system running on the USB stack on the SVGA only supports
FAT16 and FAT32 disk formats.  Inserting a drive using the NTFS format will
result in the message "Error initializing device".  

73, 

Paul




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Jim Wiley
Sounds like your setup is not providing enough run time to fully 
recharge the battery.  Rather than fiddling with the existing engine 
settings, I would suggest getting a small 1-ampere or so "trickle 
charger" from a place like Wal-Mart or Sears.  You will not need 
anything larger, and the low-rate should be safe for the battery 
long-term.  Running the engine once a week seems excessive if all you 
want to do is test it tomake sure it starts. Once a month is all I used 
when I had a 15-KW diesel set, and it never failed to start in 20+ 
years.  The trickle charger of course runs from the standard commercial 
power outlet. You do not need to disconnect the existing charging 
system, just hook up the new charger in parallel.



- Jim, KL7CC


On 4/8/2013 8:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

I know there are those on this list who can help me.

I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week 
for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery 
lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old.


Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery 
dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they 
charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery 
was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage, 
it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it.


Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no 
load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I 
checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the 
charging voltage was 14.5V.


Do I have a bad battery?



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Jim Wiley
Forgot to mention - be sure to get a charger that is intended for use 
with sealed batteries!  A charger intended for flooded batteries may be 
set to too high a voltage, and could damage a sealed battery.


- Jim, KL7CC


On 4/8/2013 8:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

I know there are those on this list who can help me.

I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week 
for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery 
lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old.


Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery 
dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they 
charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery 
was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage, 
it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it.


Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no 
load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I 
checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the 
charging voltage was 14.5V.


Do I have a bad battery?



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT

A small charger will work if the battery is still good.

Before I assumed that, I'd charge the battery with a good charger, then 
do a load test to see if it actually stores power.


I've had "sealed" batteries that were damaged in shipping.  Looked fine, 
but outgassed and dried out.  Took a couple of years.


Usually, the periodic "run" is to bring the oil to temperature and 
distribute it around the engine, not primarily for battery charging.


-- Lynn

On 4/8/2013 9:51 AM, Jim Wiley wrote:

Sounds like your setup is not providing enough run time to fully
recharge the battery.  Rather than fiddling with the existing engine
settings, I would suggest getting a small 1-ampere or so "trickle
charger" from a place like Wal-Mart or Sears.  You will not need
anything larger, and the low-rate should be safe for the battery
long-term.  Running the engine once a week seems excessive if all you
want to do is test it tomake sure it starts. Once a month is all I used
when I had a 15-KW diesel set, and it never failed to start in 20+
years.  The trickle charger of course runs from the standard commercial
power outlet. You do not need to disconnect the existing charging
system, just hook up the new charger in parallel.


- Jim, KL7CC


On 4/8/2013 8:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

I know there are those on this list who can help me.

I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week
for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery
lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old.

Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery
dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they
charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery
was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage,
it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it.

Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no
load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I
checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the
charging voltage was 14.5V.

Do I have a bad battery?



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Vic K2VCO
I see that my original post was not clear. I should have said that after the first 
instance of a dead battery, after the battery was tested and pronounced good, I replaced 
the VOLTAGE REGULATOR.


I'm not sure about the type of electrolyte, whether it's gel or liquid, but I think it is 
liquid. The battery is sealed, though. The capacity is 665 AH with "540 CCA."


I've received several responses to check if the battery is draining when the generator is 
not running. I should have mentioned that I did this the first time it died, and there was 
no current drain when it wasn't running.


On 4/8/2013 9:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

I know there are those on this list who can help me.

I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week for a half hour 
to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 10 years! The present 
battery is about 2 years old.


Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery dead. I took the 
battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it overnight and tested it 
under load. They said the battery was OK. When I started the generator and checked the 
charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it.


Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no load was 11.5V. I 
left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the voltage and it was 
13.5V. The generator started up and the charging voltage was 14.5V.


Do I have a bad battery?


--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] Headphones $11.99

2013-04-08 Thread w1pns
Dave, 

I spotted these in the accessories section of my local T-Mobile store. Might 
they work? I picked up a couple on impulse, and they have great sound for such 
tiny enclosures. They about 2 inches tall and maybe 1.5 inches in diameter. 
They are battery powered, with a computer serving as the battery charger (via a 
USB port). Supposedly you get six to eight hours off of a charge. 

http://www.musemini.com/copy-of-muse-mini-portable-speaker-non-bluetooth/ 

If something like this looks useful, and they don't ship to the UK (and 
T-Mobile stores there don't carry them), let me know and I can snag one for 
your and send it along... 

With best regards, 

Pete 
W1PNS 

- Original Message -
From: "Dave Lankshear"  
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, April 8, 2013 12:19:13 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Headphones $11.99 

Bummer! They only ship to continental US, Puerto Rico and APO. 



Ah well, I guess I have enough sets of headphones, anyway. 



UK guys, any recommendations for small, amplified, mains-driven speakers for 
the KX3, please? 



73 all. Dave, G3TJP 

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Bob
Well my bet would be a bad battery.   Seems that either the self discharge rate 
is high, because it is defective, or the controller for the automated cycling is 
drawing excessive current and discharging the battery between cycles.The 
fact that a battery "takes" a charge does not mean that it will maintain it.


Regarding chargers I have had good experience with these:

http://batterytender.com/products/automotive/battery-tender-plus-12v-at-1-25a.html

Don't be scared off by the price tag as they can be had for far less.  In the 
$35-$40 range if you shop around.I use these for my backup gel cells and 
mostly for maintaining my motorcycle batteries over the winter. The motorcycle 
batteries are AGM types.


73,
Bob
K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) & K2TKR

K2 & K3 plus a bunch of G land MC's


On 4/8/2013 12:53 PM, Jim Wiley wrote:
Forgot to mention - be sure to get a charger that is intended for use with 
sealed batteries!  A charger intended for flooded batteries may be set to too 
high a voltage, and could damage a sealed battery.


- Jim, KL7CC


On 4/8/2013 8:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

I know there are those on this list who can help me.

I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week for a 
half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 
10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old.


Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery dead. 
I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it 
overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery was OK. When I 
started the generator and checked the charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I 
thought was marginal, so I replaced it.


Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no load was 
11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the 
voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the charging voltage 
was 14.5V.


Do I have a bad battery?





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[Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx

2013-04-08 Thread Richard Fjeld
I have been working PSK31 and CW using the message memories in the SVGA 
adapter.  I have only had my SVGA a short time and have just got around to 
trying digital modes with it.

I have noticed that random characters are being omitted from Tx even though 
they show in the transmit box.  A replay will find those same characters okay, 
but different one(s) will be omitted.  As I say, the characters are at random.

Has anyone else noticed this?  

My computer is not on, so I don't suspect the USB to Serial cable, but maybe I 
need to check the correct routing of the cables.  Maybe???

Rich, n0ce
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread riese-k3djc
well it certanily sounds unhappy
check to see if there is any drain
as your system sets idle,, something
may be draining the battery

Bob K3DJC
On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 09:15:44 -0700 Vic K2VCO 
writes:
> I know there are those on this list who can help me.
> 
> I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a 
> week for a half hour to 
> charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 10 
> years! The present 
> battery is about 2 years old.
> 
> Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the 
> battery dead. I took the 
> battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it 
> overnight and tested it 
> under load. They said the battery was OK. When I started the 
> generator and checked the 
> charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I 
> replaced it.
> 
> Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no 
> load was 11.5V. I 
> left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the 
> voltage and it was 13.5V. 
> The generator started up and the charging voltage was 14.5V.
> 
> Do I have a bad battery?
> 
> -- 
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread riese-k3djc
well it certanily sounds unhappy
check to see if there is any drain
as your system sets idle,, something
may be draining the battery

Bob K3DJC
On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 09:15:44 -0700 Vic K2VCO 
writes:
> I know there are those on this list who can help me.
> 
> I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a 
> week for a half hour to 
> charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery lasted for about 10 
> years! The present 
> battery is about 2 years old.
> 
> Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the 
> battery dead. I took the 
> battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they charged it 
> overnight and tested it 
> under load. They said the battery was OK. When I started the 
> generator and checked the 
> charging voltage, it was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I 
> replaced it.
> 
> Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no 
> load was 11.5V. I 
> left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I checked the 
> voltage and it was 13.5V. 
> The generator started up and the charging voltage was 14.5V.
> 
> Do I have a bad battery?
> 
> -- 
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Phil Kane
On 4/8/2013 9:51 AM, Jim Wiley wrote:

> Running the engine once a week seems excessive if all you 
> want to do is test it tomake sure it starts. Once a month is all I used 
> when I had a 15-KW diesel set, and it never failed to start in 20+ 
> years.  

Once a week is standard in our Public Safety and medical support comm
centers, after the terrible experience that a (national) telephone
utility had after an earthquake when they tried to start a gas turbine
and it literally blew itself apart - it had never been tested or
inspected in several years in an effort to reduce costs.

The test isn't whether it will start so much as whether it will pick up
and maintain the rated load.

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

Member, Washington County, OR
Emergency Communications Team
for ARES/RACES and HEARTNET

Station Co-manager - W7PSV / K7PSV
Providence St. Vincent Medical Center
Disaster Communication Team
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Re: [Elecraft] PLL Reference Oscillator Range and VCO Test

2013-04-08 Thread Dickie M0AUW
Hi Don,
Many thanks for your quick reply. 

U5 pin 7 good 4.8v at + 0 at -
U6 pin 1 good 7.68v at + 0 at -
D16 and 17 checked, same voltage change as U6 pin1
Q19 I'm getting a reading of 257 ohms
C84 and 85 are checked and correct

While I had the time I removed the thermistor board , all looked OK. 
I will double check RFC14 and if necessary rewind and re-tin; I will also go
over all the soldering again, 9 times out of 10 its a bridge or a soldering
issue but I have to say I can't locate anything yet.
Will let you know how I get on

73s - Dick M0AUW




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Fred Townsend
Vic let me clarify a few issues.
1.  At 665 AH your sealed battery is almost certainly a wet battery
(i.e. not a gel).
2.  A charging voltage between 13.5 and 14.2 is normal. 14.5 is a bit
high unless the charger is temperature compensated and the weather is very
cold (in the area of your generator). Another cause would be if you measured
the charging voltage without a battery attached (i.e. no load). In any event
your real problem does not appear to be too high a charging voltage.
3.  A measured voltage of 11.5 is a fully discharged battery. A 1 A
trickle charger would need 665 hours (actually even more because of
inefficiencies) to fully recharge that battery.
4.  Why did you replace the old battery after 10 years? In your almost
ideal circumstances it could easily last 25 years. The nature of lead acid
batteries is they fail when fully discharged. That can kill even a new
battery which may be the case now.
5.  Logically I must ask: Have you fixed the original problem? Battery
failure is likely a secondary problem. Ruling out two bad batteries (the old
and new batteries) has the generator become hard starting or else is there
another drain on the battery?

To find your problem you need to get a fully charged battery and monitor the
operation of the generator. Have you cleaned all the terminals and otherwise
verified the cables? Does it start hard? Does the started solenoid get warm
when not in use?  Is there 13.5 to 14.2 volts on the battery posts (don't
measure the cable terminals) when the generator is running? When the
generator is off is there a battery drain? It may take a milliamp meter to
tell but be careful not to use it while charging or you may smoke the meter.
Remember ammeters are always placed in series, never in parallel (instant
smoke).  

Try these procedures and get back to us.
73
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic K2VCO
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 10:13 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

I see that my original post was not clear. I should have said that after the
first instance of a dead battery, after the battery was tested and
pronounced good, I replaced the VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

I'm not sure about the type of electrolyte, whether it's gel or liquid, but
I think it is liquid. The battery is sealed, though. The capacity is 665 AH
with "540 CCA."

I've received several responses to check if the battery is draining when the
generator is not running. I should have mentioned that I did this the first
time it died, and there was no current drain when it wasn't running.

On 4/8/2013 9:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:
> I know there are those on this list who can help me.
>
> I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week 
> for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery 
> lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old.
>
> Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery 
> dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they 
> charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery 
> was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage, it
was 13.8V which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it.
>
> Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no 
> load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I 
> checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the
charging voltage was 14.5V.
>
> Do I have a bad battery?
>
>
> --
> Vic, K2VCO
> Fresno CA
> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] PLL Reference Oscillator Range and VCO Test

2013-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dick,

All that sounds good, and may not be the source of your problem.

You mentioned that you had a frequency counter.
Do the CAL FCTR test with BAND+/- using your external frequency counter 
and see if you obtain the expected frequencies.
If so, take a very good look at your internal counter probe, especially 
the insertion of the crimp pins into the housing.   If those crimp pins 
are not inserted correctly (with the crimp pin locking tabs locked in 
the rectangular holes of the housing), the signal from the test point 
may not be adequate getting to the control board.  Also the braid on the 
coax must be on the pin closest to the left side panel when the probe is 
attached to the Control Board.


I have not seen it lately (in the past 2 or 3 years) but a while back we 
had trouble with the frequency response of Q9 and Q10 on the Control 
board.  If your external counter test is good and the probe is in good 
shape, you could try replacing Q9 and Q10 with 2N transistors - they 
will work fine up through all the frequencies that internal counter needs.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/8/2013 2:23 PM, Dickie M0AUW wrote:

Hi Don,
Many thanks for your quick reply.

U5 pin 7 good 4.8v at + 0 at -
U6 pin 1 good 7.68v at + 0 at -
D16 and 17 checked, same voltage change as U6 pin1
Q19 I'm getting a reading of 257 ohms
C84 and 85 are checked and correct

While I had the time I removed the thermistor board , all looked OK.
I will double check RFC14 and if necessary rewind and re-tin; I will also go
over all the soldering again, 9 times out of 10 its a bridge or a soldering
issue but I have to say I can't locate anything yet.
Will let you know how I get on

73s - Dick M0AUW




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Vic K2VCO

The charging voltage was measured with the battery connected.

Although it says "ca 665" on it, judging by the size it must 65 AH!

I charged it for a period of 12 hours with an initial charging current of about 7A, which 
dropped to 2A.


I replaced the old battery because it went dead, and then when I charged it it did not 
recover. I think the voltage regulator was bad and not producing enough charging voltage. 
Then the battery was damaged because I didn't notice it was dead for a couple of weeks.


The new battery also went dead. I then checked the charging voltage and it was 13.8V. I 
thought it was marginal, so I replaced the voltage regulator. Now I'm getting 14.5V when 
the engine is running. But I am thinking that I damaged the new battery when I allowed it 
to die before replacing the voltage regulator.


The connections have been cleaned. It is not particularly hard to start (cranks for about 
5-7 seconds and starts). No drain at all when it is off.


On 4/8/2013 11:22 AM, Fred Townsend wrote:


Vic let me clarify a few issues.

1.At 665 AH your sealed battery is almost certainly a wet battery (i.e. not a 
gel).

2.A charging voltage between 13.5 and 14.2 is normal. 14.5 is a bit high unless the 
charger is temperature compensated and the weather is very cold (in the area of your 
generator). Another cause would be if you measured the charging voltage without a 
battery attached (i.e. no load). _In any event your real problem does not appear to be 
too high a charging voltage._


3.A measured voltage of 11.5 is a fully discharged battery. A 1 A trickle charger would 
need 665 hours (actually even more because of inefficiencies) to fully recharge that 
battery.


4.Why did you replace the old battery after 10 years? In your almost ideal circumstances 
it could easily last 25 years. The nature of lead acid batteries is they fail when 
_fully discharged_. That can kill even a new battery which may be the case now.


5.Logically I must ask: Have you fixed the original problem? Battery failure is likely a 
secondary problem. Ruling out two bad batteries (the old and new batteries) has the 
generator become hard starting or else is there another drain on the battery?


To find your problem you need to get a fully charged battery and monitor the operation 
of the generator. Have you cleaned all the terminals and otherwise verified the cables? 
Does it start hard? Does the started solenoid get warm when not in use?  Is there 13.5 
to 14.2 volts on the battery posts (don't measure the cable terminals) when the 
generator is running? When the generator is off is there a battery drain? It may take a 
milliamp meter to tell but be careful not to use it while charging or you may smoke the 
meter.  Remember ammeters are always placed in series, never in parallel (instant smoke).


Try these procedures and get back to us.

73

Fred, AE6QL

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On 
Behalf Of Vic K2VCO

Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 10:13 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

I see that my original post was not clear. I should have said that after the first 
instance of a dead battery, after the battery was tested and pronounced good, I replaced 
the VOLTAGE REGULATOR.


I'm not sure about the type of electrolyte, whether it's gel or liquid, but I think it 
is liquid. The battery is sealed, though. The capacity is 665 AH with "540 CCA."


I've received several responses to check if the battery is draining when the generator 
is not running. I should have mentioned that I did this the first time it died, and 
there was no current drain when it wasn't running.


On 4/8/2013 9:15 AM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

> I know there are those on this list who can help me.

>

> I have a 5 kW generator at my house. It runs automatically once a week

> for a half hour to charge the (sealed) battery. The first battery

> lasted for about 10 years! The present battery is about 2 years old.

>

> Some months ago, I noticed that it wasn't running. I found the battery

> dead. I took the battery back to Batteries Plus where I got it; they

> charged it overnight and tested it under load. They said the battery

> was OK. When I started the generator and checked the charging voltage, it was 13.8V 
which I thought was marginal, so I replaced it.


>

> Yesterday the generator would not start. The battery voltage with no

> load was 11.5V. I left it on the charger all day. Then this morning I

> checked the voltage and it was 13.5V. The generator started up and the charging 
voltage was 14.5V.


>

> Do I have a bad battery?

>

>

> --

> Vic, K2VCO

> Fresno CA

> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

2013-04-08 Thread Wright, Robert
Thank Paul,

It is good that the wrong format message is distinctly different than the 
"DEVICE NOT SUPPORTED" message.  I originally posted with the thought that this 
might be Dale's problem, but it is not.

73, Bob N7ZO


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul Saffren N6HZ
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

Bob, 

Correct, the file system running on the USB stack on the SVGA only supports
FAT16 and FAT32 disk formats.  Inserting a drive using the NTFS format will 
result in the message "Error initializing device".  

73, 

Paul




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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx

2013-04-08 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Hi Richard, 

For sending CW from the keyboard on the SVGA the only cable that needs to be
connected is the serial cable between the K3 and the P3.   How do you have
the transmit mode set up?  Does it transmit immediately (vox) or is it CR? 

73, 

Paul
 



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[Elecraft] FS: Radio Encyclopedia, 1927

2013-04-08 Thread Alan D. Wilcox

Hello,

This is my last antique book for sale ... Gernsback's Radio Encyclopedia 
from 1927.

Check it out ...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200913675498

When you're on eBay, click on the right-side of the page to
"See other items" that I'm selling. Cleaning house for move.

Cheers,
Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX
570-478-0736
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/6768 ... Elecraft Client Comments
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/8841 ... Small Wonder Labs Comments
http://WilcoxPublishing.com
https://www.smashwords.com/books/view/28062?ref=awilcox

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx

2013-04-08 Thread Richard Fjeld
Thanks for the prompt reply, Paul.

My comment/question about the cable was a passing thought about having the 
cable plugged into the correct one of two jacks.  I just verified that it is.

The transmit mode is set up for ^T.  Perhaps this is normal, but no matter what 
mode, it begins to transmit as soon as I call a memory.  Using ^T it also 
transmits when I begin typing unless I use a ^R.  After using a ^R, I can then 
use a ^T to have it transmit.

In summary, the memories were being transmitted as soon as I called them.

Rich, n0ce

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Saffren N6HZ 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 2:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx


  Hi Richard, 

  For sending CW from the keyboard on the SVGA the only cable that needs to be
  connected is the serial cable between the K3 and the P3.   How do you have
  the transmit mode set up?  Does it transmit immediately (vox) or is it CR? 

  73, 

  Paul
   



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[Elecraft] K3 PA Temp Reading Unstable

2013-04-08 Thread paulb

Hi folks

K3 here has developed a slight problem with the PA temp sensing..
it is flicking between normal and +40 several times per minute.
noticed the fans starting in a very cold shack RX only running.
This may have been happening for a while, but never noticed until
the cooler mornings.

Havn't taken a look at the PA or circuits yet, wonder if another user
has a start point ? My guess is the sensor or related components.

thanks

cheers

Paul 
zl1ajy








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Re: [Elecraft] Headphones $11.99

2013-04-08 Thread gosier
Also these are a bit more in price but I've had 2 of theses for 3 years now 
and still working fine. BIG SOUND for a tiny speaker  just got a 
"Cartman" and love it 


http://www.getmobi.com/products.php?id=4


72

George , N2JNZ

-Original Message- 
From: w1...@comcast.net

Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 1:17 PM
To: Dave Lankshear
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Headphones $11.99

Dave,

I spotted these in the accessories section of my local T-Mobile store. Might 
they work? I picked up a couple on impulse, and they have great sound for 
such tiny enclosures. They about 2 inches tall and maybe 1.5 inches in 
diameter. They are battery powered, with a computer serving as the battery 
charger (via a USB port). Supposedly you get six to eight hours off of a 
charge.


http://www.musemini.com/copy-of-muse-mini-portable-speaker-non-bluetooth/

If something like this looks useful, and they don't ship to the UK (and 
T-Mobile stores there don't carry them), let me know and I can snag one for 
your and send it along...


With best regards,

Pete
W1PNS

- Original Message -
From: "Dave Lankshear" 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, April 8, 2013 12:19:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Headphones $11.99

Bummer! They only ship to continental US, Puerto Rico and APO.



Ah well, I guess I have enough sets of headphones, anyway.



UK guys, any recommendations for small, amplified, mains-driven speakers for
the KX3, please?



73 all. Dave, G3TJP

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[Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread tomb18
Can someone explain exactly what the " Reverse" functions is?
I understand how it is used for CW but for all the data modes?
DATA A, PSK D, AFSK A, and FSK D can all be set as reverse.

Thanks, Tom VA2FSQ



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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

2013-04-08 Thread d...@lightstream.net
Hi Paul,

Thanks for the info. Two of the drives were very inexpensive MicroCenter
devices, and those were both formatted as FAT32. When inserted, the P3SVGA
reports "DEVICE NOT SUPPORTED". I tried reformatting both, and no change.

The third was a Patriot 'Rage' 64GB device, formatted as FAT32, and when
inserted, the P3SVGA reports "Error Initializing Device". I don't want to
reformat this device, so I'll have to try something else.

Thanks,
73 Dale
WA8SRA

Do you know of a particular mfg/model that works?
> Hi Dale,
>
> Most USB thumb drives are supported.  For example I am using both name
> brands like Sandisk as well as cheapo no-name eBay specials, which work
> fine.A few drives do not work, and unfortunately the only way to tell
> if
> one works is to plug it in.  The capacity should not matter.Just
> curious, what brand and model are the ones you are trying?  Maybe try a
> different brand.   Also note that the SVGA USB port does not support hubs.
> If you're still having trouble, give me a call at the factory.
>
> 73,
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
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> View this message in context:
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Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread Matt Zilmer
LSB (REV) instead of USB (NORMAL).

73,
matt W6NIA

On Mon, 08 Apr 2013 13:52:40 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>Can someone explain exactly what the " Reverse" functions is?
>I understand how it is used for CW but for all the data modes?
>DATA A, PSK D, AFSK A, and FSK D can all be set as reverse.
>
>Thanks, Tom VA2FSQ
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Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

For PSK the use of the upper sideband is normal and for RTTY (AFSK amd 
FSK D) the lower sideband is normally used.

"Reverse
 is to use the non-normal sideband.  Hold the ALT button to change.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/8/2013 4:52 PM, tomb18 wrote:

Can someone explain exactly what the " Reverse" functions is?
I understand how it is used for CW but for all the data modes?
DATA A, PSK D, AFSK A, and FSK D can all be set as reverse.




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Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread Richard Ferch
"Reverse" is exactly the same in data modes as in CW - the "reverse" 
setting uses the opposite sideband to the "normal" setting. Some digital 
modes, e.g. BPSK, will work regardless of which sideband you use (like 
CW). Others, notably RTTY, are sensitive to which sideband you use (like 
SSB).


DATA A and PSK D are USB, so DATA A-REV and PSK D-REV are LSB. AFSK A 
and FSK D are LSB, so AFSK A-REV and FSK D-REV are USB.


73,
Rich VE3KI


VA2FSQ wrote:


Can someone explain exactly what the " Reverse" functions is?
I understand how it is used for CW but for all the data modes?
DATA A, PSK D, AFSK A, and FSK D can all be set as reverse.


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Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread Brian Alsop
Keep in mind what's "normal" depends upon where you are.  My 
recollection is that MTTY used to transmit on USB as non-inverted.   I 
think USB RTTY is standard elsewhere too.


I don't think the argument has ever been settled which sideband is the 
"normal" one for CW either.


I wonder if there is a correlation between which side of the road one 
drives on that the proper sideband to use


73 de Brian/K3KO



On 4/8/2013 21:28, Richard Ferch wrote:

"Reverse" is exactly the same in data modes as in CW - the "reverse"
setting uses the opposite sideband to the "normal" setting. Some digital
modes, e.g. BPSK, will work regardless of which sideband you use (like
CW). Others, notably RTTY, are sensitive to which sideband you use (like
SSB).

DATA A and PSK D are USB, so DATA A-REV and PSK D-REV are LSB. AFSK A
and FSK D are LSB, so AFSK A-REV and FSK D-REV are USB.

73,
Rich VE3KI


VA2FSQ wrote:


Can someone explain exactly what the " Reverse" functions is?
I understand how it is used for CW but for all the data modes?
DATA A, PSK D, AFSK A, and FSK D can all be set as reverse.


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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5732 - Release Date: 04/08/13






-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2240 / Virus Database: 2641/5732 - Release Date: 04/08/13

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net results (4/7/13)

2013-04-08 Thread Phil Shepard
We had nice, but smallish net on Sunday.  It is noteworthy that nearly 1/3  of 
the check-ins were using KX3s, whose serial numbers are approaching 4000.  
There were 27 participants over a 25 minute period.


Participants  from the 4/7/13 net follow:

Station NameQTH Rig S/N

WB6CLZ  MikeCA  KX3 181 And XYL, Cindy
KM4IK   Ian GA  K3  281
K5RHD   Randy   NM  KX3 1383
NZ0TBillKS  K3  1502
K4GCJ   Gerry   NC  K3  1597
W4PFM   PaulVA  K3  1673
W8OVDaveTX  K3  3139
W4RKS   Jim AL  K3  3618
W0CZKen ND  K3  457
KE5SZA  Tom OK  KX3 726
K5ONGaryNM  K3  6558
KF5IMA  Bruce   MS  K2  3575
W5TTF   Charlie TX  K3  4016
W0FMTerry   MO  K3  474
VE6IV   Kirby   AB  K3  6387
KN5LJohnTX  KX3 1658
NV5ERob TX  KX3 98
K0YOMikeUT  KX3 3892
N6JWJohnCA  KX3 515
K4QETonyNC  K3  6478
WV5IDwayne  TX  K3  5287
W1RGGillFL  KX3 2671
AE6JV   BillCA  K3  6299
ZL1PWD  Peter   NZ  K3  139
K4TMCaryVA  K3  3448
KL7UW   Ed  AK  K3  4340
NS7PPhilOR  K3  1826

73,

Phil, NS7P
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Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread Richard Ferch
The K3, like every other amateur transceiver I know of, uses LSB for its 
RTTY-specific data modes (AFSK A and FSK D). This is the standard 
amateur convention for RTTY. Note that RTTY outside the amateur bands 
may be different; the choice of polarity for RTTY is an arbitrary 
convention which is not the same in all services. Regardless of which 
sideband the transceiver uses, if you are using software to decode and 
encode signals the software usually provides a way to choose either 
polarity.


The MMTTY software assumes the radio is in LSB. You can use MMTTY for 
amateur RTTY with the radio in USB (FSK D-REV or AFSK A-REV), but to do 
so you need to press the "Rev" button in MMTTY. Some multi-mode 
digital-mode software assumes the radio is in USB for all data modes 
including RTTY; there is usually a Reverse option in such software that 
you can use so the software will work with the radio in LSB.


As for CW, you can use whichever sideband you prefer (e.g. depending on 
whether you are tuning up the band or down the band, or on the presence 
of nearby signals either above or below the desired signal's frequency). 
The stations you are contacting cannot tell the difference. Be that as 
it may, the K3 uses LSB for CW; CW-REV in the K3 is USB.


73,
Rich VE3KI


K3KO wrote:


Keep in mind what's "normal" depends upon where you are.  My
recollection is that MTTY used to transmit on USB as non-inverted.   I
think USB RTTY is standard elsewhere too.


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Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT

Remember, LSMFT

Low-space means fine teletype.

See you on the green keys

-- Lynn

On 4/8/2013 3:40 PM, Richard Ferch wrote:

The K3, like every other amateur transceiver I know of, uses LSB for its
RTTY-specific data modes (AFSK A and FSK D). This is the standard
amateur convention for RTTY. Note that RTTY outside the amateur bands
may be different; the choice of polarity for RTTY is an arbitrary
convention which is not the same in all services. Regardless of which
sideband the transceiver uses, if you are using software to decode and
encode signals the software usually provides a way to choose either
polarity.

The MMTTY software assumes the radio is in LSB. You can use MMTTY for
amateur RTTY with the radio in USB (FSK D-REV or AFSK A-REV), but to do
so you need to press the "Rev" button in MMTTY. Some multi-mode
digital-mode software assumes the radio is in USB for all data modes
including RTTY; there is usually a Reverse option in such software that
you can use so the software will work with the radio in LSB.

As for CW, you can use whichever sideband you prefer (e.g. depending on
whether you are tuning up the band or down the band, or on the presence
of nearby signals either above or below the desired signal's frequency).
The stations you are contacting cannot tell the difference. Be that as
it may, the K3 uses LSB for CW; CW-REV in the K3 is USB.

73,
Rich VE3KI


K3KO wrote:


Keep in mind what's "normal" depends upon where you are.  My
recollection is that MTTY used to transmit on USB as non-inverted.   I
think USB RTTY is standard elsewhere too.


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[Elecraft] Using K3 for 2m EME

2013-04-08 Thread Lance Collister, W7GJ
I wonder if anybody has any ideas about this.  Prior to my trip to TX5K, I used my K3 
for receive on 2m EME by setting up the transverter port for a 28 to 144 MHz 
transverter, and I just plugged my 28 MHz converter into that nicely isolated receive 
port.   The receiver worked great, but I was eventually interested in getting the 
internal 2m transmitter module so I could use the more stable K3 on XMIT too.   I was 
using my old IC746 as a separate transmitter on 2m EME, and - as most of you know - 
it drifts quite noticeably every sequence.  And besides, I thought for traveling it 
would be convenient to have both 2m and 6m capability in one lightweight box.


So, now I have the 2m module installed in my K3 ;-)  The problem is that I can no 
longer use the transverter portit is hard wired to the 2m module.   And 
apparently, the only 2m connector is the new one (a BNC called antenna jack #3) that 
is used for box receive and transmit.   So there seems to be no way to use the K3 
with a separate protected receive line anymore!


For 6m EME, there is no problem - I just bring my 6m preamp line into the separate RX 
ANT jack, and the 6m transmit power goes out through the UHF antenna jack #2.   For 
2m EME, though, I can't figure out how to bring in a separate receive line (either on 
2m from my tower mounted preamp or after my receive converter at 28 MHz) and still be 
able to transmit on 2m.  The K3 does not support cross band operation, so I cannot 
use the RX ANT jack to safely receive my converter output on 28 MHz and still 
transmit using the internal 10w 2m module.


Has anybody figured out a way to modify the circuitry or software to provide a 
separate receive line for 2m operation?  It seems like I just made a very expensive 
mistake, and should have just bought an external transverter so I could retain use of 
the separate transverter receive jack on the rear of the K3.   If not, I guess I will 
just have to go back to using the IC746 for my transmitter on 2m, and defining a 
second transverter setting for the K3 that will allow me to bring in my 28 MHz 
converter output into that receive only jack.  This latter option DOES seem to work, 
but of course, the internal transmit capability of the K3 on 2m is thrown out the window.


Of course, there is always the solution of adding more sequenced external coaxial 
relays to switch the K3's solitary new BNC antenna jack #3, between my driver amp 
input and my 2m preamp output. However, the whole point of this expensive exercise 
was to try to take advantage of the great separate receiver antenna capabilities 
offered by the K3 on all other bands, apparently EXCEPT if you add the built-in 2m 
option :-(


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Elecraft Tech Support suggested that 
I ask users for ideas, since they also are baffled on how to make this work, and I 
guess are surprised at my application.   MNI TNX and VY 73, Lance


--
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ, E6M)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx

2013-04-08 Thread Paul Saffren N6HZ
Richard, 

Messages stored and recalled are sent automatically, regardless of the type
of mode (i.e. vox, CR or ^T).  It might make sense to have the message
respect the sending mode, let me add it to the bug list. 

73, 

Paul






--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-SVGA-chars-randomly-omitted-during-Tx-tp7572341p7572365.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Using K3 for 2m EME

2013-04-08 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lance,

My guess is that you will need to change to the external XV144 
transverter which does have the capability of using  separate TX and RX 
antennas (selectable at build time).  The internal transverter does not 
have that capability.


Yes, it does sound like an expensive oversight.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/8/2013 7:37 PM, Lance Collister, W7GJ wrote:
I wonder if anybody has any ideas about this.  Prior to my trip to 
TX5K, I used my K3 for receive on 2m EME by setting up the transverter 
port for a 28 to 144 MHz transverter, and I just plugged my 28 MHz 
converter into that nicely isolated receive port.   The receiver 
worked great, but I was eventually interested in getting the internal 
2m transmitter module so I could use the more stable K3 on XMIT too.   
I was using my old IC746 as a separate transmitter on 2m EME, and - as 
most of you know - it drifts quite noticeably every sequence.  And 
besides, I thought for traveling it would be convenient to have both 
2m and 6m capability in one lightweight box.


So, now I have the 2m module installed in my K3 ;-)  The problem is 
that I can no longer use the transverter portit is hard wired to 
the 2m module.   And apparently, the only 2m connector is the new one 
(a BNC called antenna jack #3) that is used for box receive and 
transmit.   So there seems to be no way to use the K3 with a separate 
protected receive line anymore!


For 6m EME, there is no problem - I just bring my 6m preamp line into 
the separate RX ANT jack, and the 6m transmit power goes out through 
the UHF antenna jack #2.   For 2m EME, though, I can't figure out how 
to bring in a separate receive line (either on 2m from my tower 
mounted preamp or after my receive converter at 28 MHz) and still be 
able to transmit on 2m.  The K3 does not support cross band operation, 
so I cannot use the RX ANT jack to safely receive my converter output 
on 28 MHz and still transmit using the internal 10w 2m module.


Has anybody figured out a way to modify the circuitry or software to 
provide a separate receive line for 2m operation?  It seems like I 
just made a very expensive mistake, and should have just bought an 
external transverter so I could retain use of the separate transverter 
receive jack on the rear of the K3.   If not, I guess I will just have 
to go back to using the IC746 for my transmitter on 2m, and defining a 
second transverter setting for the K3 that will allow me to bring in 
my 28 MHz converter output into that receive only jack.  This latter 
option DOES seem to work, but of course, the internal transmit 
capability of the K3 on 2m is thrown out the window.


Of course, there is always the solution of adding more sequenced 
external coaxial relays to switch the K3's solitary new BNC antenna 
jack #3, between my driver amp input and my 2m preamp output. However, 
the whole point of this expensive exercise was to try to take 
advantage of the great separate receiver antenna capabilities offered 
by the K3 on all other bands, apparently EXCEPT if you add the 
built-in 2m option :-(


Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Elecraft Tech Support 
suggested that I ask users for ideas, since they also are baffled on 
how to make this work, and I guess are surprised at my application.   
MNI TNX and VY 73, Lance




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[Elecraft] K3 power out issue

2013-04-08 Thread Bruce Meier
I just noticed that one of my K3s seems to have a power out issue.
Specifically, when keying for the first time, the output power seems to be
overshooting what it is set at.   If I continue to send CW at the same power
it is fine.   If I decrease or increase the power the output overshoots what
it is set at and them comes back down.  If I change bands, even without
changing the power level, the power overshoots the power selected for the
first few dahs.

 

How do I know this?  Well, the configuration is a K3/100 and an Acom 2000A.
The Acom forward power LEDs overshoot the 1500 watt limit and then come back
down.  It should take roughly 50w to drive the Acom to legal limit.
However, if I set the power on the K3 to 45 the Acom reads 1600 and then
drops to 1400 on the third dah.  If I set the K3 to 50 watts the Acom reads
1800 and then drops to 1500 on the third dah.   This suspect K3 used to have
an Ameritron AL1500 connected to it so this issue could have been occurring
for some time and I would not have known it.

 

So – you say – why do I suspect the K3?  Well, I have (2) K3/100s and (2)
Acom 2000As and the ONLY time this happens is if either Acom is connected to
the suspect K3.  The other K3 when connected to either Acom is just fine.
The power reading on the Acom connected to the “good” K3 is as it should be
– constant.  Additionally, the power output reading on the K3 RF power scale
overshoots the selected power and then comes back down to the power
selected.  It is just not as noticeable as the Acom RED Leds.

 

I went through all the memory settings on both K3s and they are identical.
I did calibrations on both K3s at 5w and 50w and the problem stays with the
suspect K3.  

 

Both K3s are at the following uCode levels:4.60 / d1 = 2.8 / d2 = 2.8 /
FL 1.15

Ø  Yes, I did a u-code reload

 

Both K3s have all the same updates installed

The suspect K3 is serial number:  1193

The working K3 is serial number: 1062

 

 

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Thanks and 73,

 

Bruce – N1LN

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power out issue

2013-04-08 Thread Bruce Meier
Update – 

 

Not sure how I missed this, but I just determined that this ONLY happens
when NOT in SPLIT mode.   And – it happens on BOTH K3s.  I had my other K3
in split and did not notice it.  I can reproduce the same symptom on both
K3s when NOT in split but -  when in split – both are fine.  Doesn’t matter
what band nor does it matter if VFO A and B are on the same or different
frequencies.

 

When NOT in SPLIT the output power overshoots for the first 3 dahs every
time the power level is changed either up or down.

 

Hum,

 

Bruce – N1LN

 

From: Bruce Meier [mailto:beme...@bellsouth.net] 
Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 20:06
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: K3 power out issue

 

I just noticed that one of my K3s seems to have a power out issue.
Specifically, when keying for the first time, the output power seems to be
overshooting what it is set at.   If I continue to send CW at the same power
it is fine.   If I decrease or increase the power the output overshoots what
it is set at and them comes back down.  If I change bands, even without
changing the power level, the power overshoots the power selected for the
first few dahs.

 

How do I know this?  Well, the configuration is a K3/100 and an Acom 2000A.
The Acom forward power LEDs overshoot the 1500 watt limit and then come back
down.  It should take roughly 50w to drive the Acom to legal limit.
However, if I set the power on the K3 to 45 the Acom reads 1600 and then
drops to 1400 on the third dah.  If I set the K3 to 50 watts the Acom reads
1800 and then drops to 1500 on the third dah.   This suspect K3 used to have
an Ameritron AL1500 connected to it so this issue could have been occurring
for some time and I would not have known it.

 

So – you say – why do I suspect the K3?  Well, I have (2) K3/100s and (2)
Acom 2000As and the ONLY time this happens is if either Acom is connected to
the suspect K3.  The other K3 when connected to either Acom is just fine.
The power reading on the Acom connected to the “good” K3 is as it should be
– constant.  Additionally, the power output reading on the K3 RF power scale
overshoots the selected power and then comes back down to the power
selected.  It is just not as noticeable as the Acom RED Leds.

 

I went through all the memory settings on both K3s and they are identical.
I did calibrations on both K3s at 5w and 50w and the problem stays with the
suspect K3.  

 

Both K3s are at the following uCode levels:4.60 / d1 = 2.8 / d2 = 2.8 /
FL 1.15

Ø  Yes, I did a u-code reload

 

Both K3s have all the same updates installed

The suspect K3 is serial number:  1193

The working K3 is serial number: 1062

 

 

Anyone have any suggestions?

 

Thanks and 73,

 

Bruce – N1LN

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Re: [Elecraft] [Moon-Net] Using K3 for 2m EME

2013-04-08 Thread Edward R Cole

Lance ,

As you know I run the K3 for eme, as well.  I chose the new L-series 
DEMI transverter so it was built to my spec as perfect interface with 
K3.  It seems most of the ham world is unfamiliar with separated Rx 
and Tx (though Elecraft did a super job on the KVX3 option...but then 
forgot it when they designed the K144XV).  Well, probably assumed 
most users would be working FM repeaters or using brick amps with 
internal switching for CW/SSB.  EME is just too niche.


Only suggestion is modifying the K144XV to eliminate TR switching; 
not sure how easy that would be.  keeping the K144XV inside the K3 
cabinet is problematic with running extra cables...or add an external 
coax relay (maybe the simplest solution).


I will be incorporating the 2M module in the KX3 when it is 
available.  It will be a standard common ANT connection so will 
require external TR relay to separate Rx and Tx for preamps and 
PA.  I will likely only use it as 28-MHz IF for mw transverters and 
built the required ckts into the mw transverters (my 3400-144 and 
10368-144 transverters have common IF).


BTW my DEMI L144-28HP DRX is a dream for working adaptive pol on 
2m-eme.  Unfortunately, DEMI made only one.  With the IQ+ as 
competition, its doubtful it would be an item that DEMI will 
manufacture.  I hear a Tx is coming out for the IQ+.


73, Ed - KL7UW

At 03:37 PM 4/8/2013, Lance Collister, W7GJ wrote:
I wonder if anybody has any ideas about this.  Prior to my trip to 
TX5K, I used my K3

for receive on 2m EME by setting up the transverter port for a 28 to 144 MHz
transverter, and I just plugged my 28 MHz converter into that nicely 
isolated receive
port.   The receiver worked great, but I was eventually interested 
in getting the
internal 2m transmitter module so I could use the more stable K3 on 
XMIT too.   I was
using my old IC746 as a separate transmitter on 2m EME, and - as 
most of you know -
it drifts quite noticeably every sequence.  And besides, I thought 
for traveling it

would be convenient to have both 2m and 6m capability in one lightweight box.

So, now I have the 2m module installed in my K3 ;-)  The problem is 
that I can no

longer use the transverter portit is hard wired to the 2m module.   And
apparently, the only 2m connector is the new one (a BNC called 
antenna jack #3) that
is used for box receive and transmit.   So there seems to be no way 
to use the K3

with a separate protected receive line anymore!

For 6m EME, there is no problem - I just bring my 6m preamp line 
into the separate RX
ANT jack, and the 6m transmit power goes out through the UHF antenna 
jack #2.   For
2m EME, though, I can't figure out how to bring in a separate 
receive line (either on
2m from my tower mounted preamp or after my receive converter at 28 
MHz) and still be
able to transmit on 2m.  The K3 does not support cross band 
operation, so I cannot

use the RX ANT jack to safely receive my converter output on 28 MHz and still
transmit using the internal 10w 2m module.

Has anybody figured out a way to modify the circuitry or software to 
provide a
separate receive line for 2m operation?  It seems like I just made a 
very expensive
mistake, and should have just bought an external transverter so I 
could retain use of
the separate transverter receive jack on the rear of the K3.   If 
not, I guess I will
just have to go back to using the IC746 for my transmitter on 2m, 
and defining a
second transverter setting for the K3 that will allow me to bring in 
my 28 MHz
converter output into that receive only jack.  This latter option 
DOES seem to work,
but of course, the internal transmit capability of the K3 on 2m is 
thrown out the window.


Of course, there is always the solution of adding more sequenced 
external coaxial
relays to switch the K3's solitary new BNC antenna jack #3, between 
my driver amp
input and my 2m preamp output. However, the whole point of this 
expensive exercise
was to try to take advantage of the great separate receiver antenna 
capabilities
offered by the K3 on all other bands, apparently EXCEPT if you add 
the built-in 2m

option :-(

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Elecraft Tech 
Support suggested that
I ask users for ideas, since they also are baffled on how to make 
this work, and I

guess are surprised at my application.   MNI TNX and VY 73, Lance

--
Lance Collister, W7GJ
(ex WA3GPL, WA1JXN, WA1JXN/C6A, ZF2OC/ZF8, E51SIX, 3D2LR, 5W0GJ, E6M)
P.O. Box 73
Frenchtown, MT   59834-0073
USA
TEL: (406) 626-5728
QTH: DN27ub
URL: http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj
Windows Messenger: w...@hotmail.com
Skype: lanceW7GJ
2m DXCC #11/6m DXCC #815

Interested in 6m EME?  Ask me about subscribing to the Magic Band EME
email group, or just fill in the request box at the bottom of my web
page (above)!

___
Moon-Net posting and subscription instructions are at 
http://www.nlsa.com/nets/moon-net-help.html


__

Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx

2013-04-08 Thread Richard Fjeld
It was not a problem for me, but it would be nice to see the message before it 
is transmitted in case a person recalls the wrong message, he would have time 
to cancel it.

I mentioned how it was being sent in case it wasn't supposed to be that way.

BTW, could a space before, or after, the text in memory cause a fluke?

Thanks again,

Rich, n0ce

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Saffren N6HZ 
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
  Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 6:49 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA; chars randomly omitted during Tx


  Richard, 

  Messages stored and recalled are sent automatically, regardless of the type
  of mode (i.e. vox, CR or ^T).  It might make sense to have the message
  respect the sending mode, let me add it to the bug list. 

  73, 

  Paul






  --
  View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-SVGA-chars-randomly-omitted-during-Tx-tp7572341p7572365.html
  Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Tim Groat
665 "CA" would be cranking amps (normal temperature), vs. the lower 
"CCA" rating which is cold cranking amps. Unlike marine or RV batteries, 
a starting battery have low ampere hours for its size: it's optimized 
for high current loading, not for run-time.


I agree with those who suggest a good quality float charger to 
continually maintain the battery at full charge. Be sure it has a true 
float mode (not just an automatic charge cut-off), and avoid bargain 
priced chargers (they often have poor voltage regulation). I wouldn't be 
surprised if your generator controller has one; perhaps it has failed.


I hope you get the problem fixed!

--Tim (KR0U)
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 108, Issue 11

2013-04-08 Thread glen worstell

> --
What a great mnemonic! I could never remember; now I will never forget. :)

It is probably lost on those few hams who are less than about 50 years
old, tho.

glen, KG0T

>
> Message: 33
> Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2013 16:03:50 -0700
> From: "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?
> Message-ID: <51634cd6.90...@coldrockshotbrooms.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Remember, LSMFT
>
> Low-space means fine teletype.
>
> See you on the green keys
>
> -- Lynn
>
> On 4/8/2013 3:40 PM, Richard Ferch wrote:
>> The K3, like every other amateur transceiver I know of, uses LSB for its
>> RTTY-specific data modes (AFSK A and FSK D). T

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[Elecraft] ARR P50VDG Problems

2013-04-08 Thread Chad Wasinger
Hi Group,

Just recently hooked a Advanced Receiver Research P50VDG 6 meter preamp to my 
primary K3/10. Right off the bat I heard a internal relay start chattering with 
the preamp on and RX ANT setting engage (of course this is all in receive 
mode). Turned everything off to re-evaluate connections and setup correct. I 
then put the K3 into attenuation mode to eliminate some of the gain, no luck. 

Consulted with some fellow hams and Elecraft, Elecraft thought the 24 dB of 
gain might be too much and causing an overload on the front end (and the relay 
chatter). To make a long story short, I tried the suggestions and still having 
the same issue. So I took the P50VDG to my secondary K3/10, works like a champ 
and as I would expect. Now I’m wondering what is different about my primary K3. 

Short video of the noise which seems to be produced by the relay chatter: 
https://vimeo.com/63535627

Anyone experience this or have some suggestions? My primary K3/10 is at my 
remote station using the K3/0, my secondary is at home and backup. 

Chad
N0YK

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Re: [Elecraft] [Moon-Net] Using K3 for 2m EME

2013-04-08 Thread Lance Collister, W7GJ

Hi Ed,

TNX for your thoughts.  Yes, an external transverter would have been more flexible, 
but I was hoping for something self contained.  Oh well


I wired up a pair of BNC coaxial relays to my 2m relay switch box, and that seems to 
safely terminate the output of my 2m preamp during XMIT, as well as redirect the 2m 
output from the K3's new #3 coaxial connector to the input of my solid state driver 
amp. It all seems to work now, so I am anxious to see how the stability looks  on 
JT65 tmrw when I give it an actual workout on 2m EME.


Sure am glad to have the K3 home again!  GL with the 5W0M group - hopefully they will 
start hearing some stations soon ;-)   VY 73, Lance


On 4/9/2013 12:53 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:

Lance ,

As you know I run the K3 for eme, as well.  I chose the new L-series DEMI 
transverter so it was built to my spec as perfect interface with K3.  It seems most 
of the ham world is unfamiliar with separated Rx and Tx (though Elecraft did a 
super job on the KVX3 option...but then forgot it when they designed the K144XV). 
Well, probably assumed most users would be working FM repeaters or using brick amps 
with internal switching for CW/SSB.  EME is just too niche.


Only suggestion is modifying the K144XV to eliminate TR switching; not sure how 
easy that would be.  keeping the K144XV inside the K3 cabinet is problematic with 
running extra cables...or add an external coax relay (maybe the simplest solution).


I will be incorporating the 2M module in the KX3 when it is available.  It will be 
a standard common ANT connection so will require external TR relay to separate Rx 
and Tx for preamps and PA.  I will likely only use it as 28-MHz IF for mw 
transverters and built the required ckts into the mw transverters (my 3400-144 and 
10368-144 transverters have common IF).


BTW my DEMI L144-28HP DRX is a dream for working adaptive pol on 2m-eme.  
Unfortunately, DEMI made only one.  With the IQ+ as competition, its doubtful it 
would be an item that DEMI will manufacture.  I hear a Tx is coming out for the IQ+.


73, Ed - KL7UW

At 03:37 PM 4/8/2013, Lance Collister, W7GJ wrote:

I wonder if anybody has any ideas about this.  Prior to my trip to TX5K, I used 
my K3
for receive on 2m EME by setting up the transverter port for a 28 to 144 MHz
transverter, and I just plugged my 28 MHz converter into that nicely isolated 
receive
port.   The receiver worked great, but I was eventually interested in getting 
the
internal 2m transmitter module so I could use the more stable K3 on XMIT too.   
I was
using my old IC746 as a separate transmitter on 2m EME, and - as most of you 
know -
it drifts quite noticeably every sequence.  And besides, I thought for 
traveling it
would be convenient to have both 2m and 6m capability in one lightweight box.

So, now I have the 2m module installed in my K3 ;-)  The problem is that I can 
no
longer use the transverter portit is hard wired to the 2m module.   And
apparently, the only 2m connector is the new one (a BNC called antenna jack #3) 
that
is used for box receive and transmit.   So there seems to be no way to use the 
K3
with a separate protected receive line anymore!

For 6m EME, there is no problem - I just bring my 6m preamp line into the 
separate RX
ANT jack, and the 6m transmit power goes out through the UHF antenna jack #2.   
For
2m EME, though, I can't figure out how to bring in a separate receive line 
(either on
2m from my tower mounted preamp or after my receive converter at 28 MHz) and 
still be
able to transmit on 2m.  The K3 does not support cross band operation, so I 
cannot
use the RX ANT jack to safely receive my converter output on 28 MHz and still
transmit using the internal 10w 2m module.

Has anybody figured out a way to modify the circuitry or software to provide a
separate receive line for 2m operation?  It seems like I just made a very 
expensive
mistake, and should have just bought an external transverter so I could retain 
use of
the separate transverter receive jack on the rear of the K3. If not, I guess I 
will
just have to go back to using the IC746 for my transmitter on 2m, and defining a
second transverter setting for the K3 that will allow me to bring in my 28 MHz
converter output into that receive only jack.  This latter option DOES seem to 
work,
but of course, the internal transmit capability of the K3 on 2m is thrown out the 
window.


Of course, there is always the solution of adding more sequenced external 
coaxial
relays to switch the K3's solitary new BNC antenna jack #3, between my driver 
amp
input and my 2m preamp output. However, the whole point of this expensive 
exercise
was to try to take advantage of the great separate receiver antenna capabilities
offered by the K3 on all other bands, apparently EXCEPT if you add the built-in 
2m
option :-(

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.Elecraft Tech Support 
suggested that
I ask users for ideas, since they also are baffled on how to make 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 108, Issue 11

2013-04-08 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I still hear "Lucky Strike Means Fine Tobacco". So much for being
brainwashed.

73 Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

> --
What a great mnemonic! I could never remember; now I will never forget. :)

It is probably lost on those few hams who are less than about 50 years old,
tho.

glen, KG0T


> Remember, LSMFT
>
> Low-space means fine teletype.
>
> See you on the green keys
>
> -- Lynn
>
> On 4/8/2013 3:40 PM, Richard Ferch wrote:
>> The K3, like every other amateur transceiver I know of, uses LSB for 
>> its RTTY-specific data modes (AFSK A and FSK D). T

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 108, Issue 11

2013-04-08 Thread Harlan
LSMFT.. Yep remember it well

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Ron D'Eau Claire  wrote:

>I still hear "Lucky Strike Means Fine Tobacco". So much for being
>brainwashed.
>
>73 Ron AC7AC
>
>-Original Message-
>
>> --
>What a great mnemonic! I could never remember; now I will never forget. :)
>
>It is probably lost on those few hams who are less than about 50 years old,
>tho.
>
>glen, KG0T
>
>
>> Remember, LSMFT
>>
>> Low-space means fine teletype.
>>
>> See you on the green keys
>>
>> -- Lynn
>>
>> On 4/8/2013 3:40 PM, Richard Ferch wrote:
>>> The K3, like every other amateur transceiver I know of, uses LSB for 
>>> its RTTY-specific data modes (AFSK A and FSK D). T
>
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[Elecraft] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread k...@juno.com
I use a change-out (every 3 years) automotive battery and the
Harbor Freight 42292 float charger on a venerable 3KW Onan
generator.  Good service, as the generator never fails to start even after many 
years. 
The box claims the 42292 will deal with flooded cell or sealed
lead-acid batteries.  My experience with this charger is limited
to flooded, automotive and "RV" deep-cycle batteries.

Our radio club's (NHARC.ORG) trustee keeps a trio of AGM deep cycle batteries 
happy between field days with the Battery Tender
system as mentioned by another poster.  

72,

Tim



How to Sleep Like a Rock
Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/516386e2aef906e2353est03duc
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Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?

2013-04-08 Thread tomb18
Ok, thanks for the explanations.  Got it.




--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/DATA-A-Reverse-AFSK-A-Reverse-etc-tp7572355p7572377.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 108, Issue 11

2013-04-08 Thread Merv Schweigert

I am much older than 50 and LSMFT
was Lucky Strike means Fine Tobacco

Many a TTY room was so full of smoke you
could not see the other side of the room in
those days.
Merv K9FD/KH6

--

What a great mnemonic! I could never remember; now I will never forget. :)

It is probably lost on those few hams who are less than about 50 years
old, tho.

glen, KG0T


Message: 33
Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2013 16:03:50 -0700
From: "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] DATA A Reverse? AFSK A Reverse etc?
Message-ID: <51634cd6.90...@coldrockshotbrooms.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Remember, LSMFT

Low-space means fine teletype.

See you on the green keys

-- Lynn

On 4/8/2013 3:40 PM, Richard Ferch wrote:

The K3, like every other amateur transceiver I know of, uses LSB for its
RTTY-specific data modes (AFSK A and FSK D). T

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 108, Issue 11

2013-04-08 Thread Bill Frantz
I am also much older than 50. But I still remember my youth:

  Loose suspenders mean falling trousers
  
  Lady's seats make fine targets

On 4/8/13 at 9:10 PM, k...@flex.com (Merv Schweigert) wrote:

> I am much older than 50 and LSMFT
> was Lucky Strike means Fine Tobacco
---
Bill Frantz|The nice thing about standards| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  |is there are so many to choose| 16345 Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |from.   - Andrew Tanenbaum| Los Gatos, CA 95032

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Re: [Elecraft] [P3] USB Screen capture

2013-04-08 Thread Ian White

Of the four USB drives tried here, the only one that failed to work was
the newest which was USB3 compatible. Has anyone had success with a USB3
drive?

Even among the drives that did work, there were dramatic differences in
the time needed to copy the screen image, ranging from 45-50 seconds
down to 20 seconds. 

73 from Ian GM3SEK


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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

2013-04-08 Thread Edward R Cole
I have a 6500w electric-start Honda which had similar battery 
problems.  Mine were that I did not run it often enough and cold 
winter wx in AK saps the battery over time.  My solution was to use a 
12v 500ma charger on the battery which is just enough to maintain 
it.  My generator is wired into the house via a transfer switch so I 
just stole some 120vac from the switch (fused at the panel since it 
is on the commercial side of the main breaker).


What is nice is I can power the entire house when commercial power is 
off (even running my 2m-8877).


73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Jim Wiley 
To: Vic K2VCO 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Lead-acid battery question

The trickle charger of course runs from the standard commercial
power outlet. You do not need to disconnect the existing charging
system, just hook up the new charger in parallel.


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