Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-30 Thread Scott Manthe

Evangelists often do not read the fine print...

Scott, N9AA

On 6/30/14, 1:55 AM, K8JHR wrote:
I am thinking Don did not catch the use of a bias Tee type DC 
injector in the story...


 JHR ===

On 6/30/2014 1:36 AM, Michael Eberle wrote:


Anderson Power Poles on the antenna jack?


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[Elecraft] OT: Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread eric norris via Elecraft
There is more bad information out there on verticals than any other topic in 
hamdom (with the possible exception of mag loops).  I suggest you buy ON4UN's 
book on low-band dxing. and treat the chapter on verticals as gospel..  This 
much I know--I used an HF2V for 20 years with 6 ground radials and got very 
familiar with what it could do.  I then added 60 radials, and the difference 
was astonishing.  

73

Eric WD6DBM

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

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[Elecraft] OT: Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread eric norris via Elecraft
There is more bad information out there on verticals than any other topic in 
hamdom (with the possible exception of mag loops).  I suggest you buy ON4UN's 
book on low-band dxing. and treat the chapter on verticals as gospel..  This 
much I know--I used an HF2V for 20 years with 6 ground radials and got very 
familiar with what it could do.  I then added 60 radials, and the difference 
was astonishing.  

73

Eric WD6DBM

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-30 Thread John W. Tipka

Doug,

I am using a Butternut HF2V vertical on 80 and 40 meters. The HF2V is a 
base loaded ground mounted antenna. The HF2V is sitting atop 24 radials 
separated 15 degrees apart from each other. Half of the radials are 66 
feet long; the remaining 12 radials are each 32 feet long.
I used a sidewalk grass edger and removed the sidewalk guide to cut 
slots 2 inches deep into the ground. I had a fishtail dandelion cutter 
that I used to push 1100 feet of #10 copper wire down into the slots. I 
used a chalk line to guide the edger. It worked like a dream come true. 
The HF2V is sited on 2 acres in the open with no bends in the radials. 
The radials are connected to two 8 foot long copper coated ground rods 
bonded together. They are bonded to the base of the HF2V just above the 
fiberglass rod insulator. The rods and antenna are bonded together with 
a short piece of #6 stranded copper wire. The hardest job for me, now 
nearing 80 years old, was driving in the ground rods. I used a fence 
post driver until the bottom of its tube touched the ground, and then 
finished with an 8 pound sledgehammer.  I guess pneumatic and even 
electrical impact drivers are now available for that job. But, I was 
lucky in that no rocks were in the way of the ground rods driven into 
fertile central Ohio farmland.


The results were amazing. SWR of 1.0:1 at 3585 KHz; SWR 1.2:1 at 
7045KHz. Bandwidth on 80 M between 2.0:1 points is 73 KHz; on 40 meters 
- a bandwidth of 96 KHz. I also have a Cushcraft R8 vertical with no 
radials except those a part of the antenna. The base of the R8 is 12 
feet above ground with a SWR of 1.8:1 at 7045 KHz. It has a bandwidth of 
14 KHz between 2.0:1 SWR points. The HF2V puts the R8 to shame. The HF2V 
has proved to be my long haul antenna to work into JA, UA0, YB, 3W2, 
E21, FR, FO, etc. from central Ohio.


I didn't skimp on wire. I don't know how symmetry of the radials affects 
performance. My radials are perfectly symmetrical laid out using  a 
rafter framing square and chalk line. I used the center of the tops of 
ground rods that extend two inches above  ground as the focus. Yes, the 
wire was somewhat pricey, but it paid off for me.  The aluminum wire 
that you have should work just fine placed in the ground in your grassy 
meadow. I can't comment on 43 foot verticals as I have no experience 
with them. I found that the more wire in the ground, the better the 
antenna operation. You will be pleasantly pleased.  Good luck with it.


73 John W8UL

On 6/29/2014 3:07 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:
Most people would think we're well into Summer.  Not here in the High 
Rockies.  Summer here has just begun.  Time to mend some fences. Now 
the point: I just pulled about a mile of #11 soft drawn aluminum wire 
- mostly in 50' to 100' lengths.  Normally its electrified and the 
cattle won't touch it.  But last year the charger died and the cattle 
just shredded the wire to get into my grassy meadow.


So now I have all this aluminum wire that I would hate to throw away.  
So I'm thinking of making a really good ground plane and putting up a 
vertical of some kind.  I have enough scrap tubing to make about 38' 
or so.  I was thinking of putting a remote tuner at the base of the 
vertical as the length of coax to reach it will probably be at least 
150'.


So I'd be interested in comments on how to configure the radials in 
terms of length and number.  I know there's some guys on this 
reflector that real know a lot about this sort of thing.


Thanks  73,

Doug -- K0DXV
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3986/7764 - Release Date: 06/29/14




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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-30 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Doug,

The single best source of information on radials that I have found is that
published by Rudy, N6LF. Here is a link:

http://www.antennasbyn6lf.com/design_of_radial_ground_systems

Scroll down the page and check out the seven part article that he published
in QEX magazine and the six radial experiments that he conducted. It’s
wonderful stuff.

73,
Mike K2MK



Elecraft mailing list wrote
 Most people would think we're well into Summer.  Not here in the High 
 Rockies.  Summer here has just begun.  Time to mend some fences.  Now 
 the point: I just pulled about a mile of #11 soft drawn aluminum wire - 
 mostly in 50' to 100' lengths.  Normally its electrified and the cattle 
 won't touch it.  But last year the charger died and the cattle just 
 shredded the wire to get into my grassy meadow.
 
 So now I have all this aluminum wire that I would hate to throw away.  
 So I'm thinking of making a really good ground plane and putting up a 
 vertical of some kind.  I have enough scrap tubing to make about 38' or 
 so.  I was thinking of putting a remote tuner at the base of the 
 vertical as the length of coax to reach it will probably be at least 150'.
 
 So I'd be interested in comments on how to configure the radials in 
 terms of length and number.  I know there's some guys on this reflector 
 that real know a lot about this sort of thing.
 
 Thanks  73,
 Doug -- K0DXV





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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-30 Thread David Cole
Here is your definitive work on verticals and radials... 

http://www.antennasbyn6lf.com/

I visited his home a few months ago.  He currently has 6, (they look to
be 125 to 150 feet tall), verticals up for testing, and 640 work.  

If you look in the archives on the right of his page, you will find his
many articles.
-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for vertical

2014-06-30 Thread David Cole
Wow...  Great minds think alike...  I just got your email on Rudy...  :)
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
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for MM-SSTV see:
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On Mon, 2014-06-30 at 06:17 -0700, Mike K2MK wrote:
 Hi Doug,
 
 The single best source of information on radials that I have found is that
 published by Rudy, N6LF. Here is a link:
 
 http://www.antennasbyn6lf.com/design_of_radial_ground_systems
 
 Scroll down the page and check out the seven part article that he published
 in QEX magazine and the six radial experiments that he conducted. It’s
 wonderful stuff.
 
 73,
 Mike K2MK
 
 
 
 Elecraft mailing list wrote
  Most people would think we're well into Summer.  Not here in the High 
  Rockies.  Summer here has just begun.  Time to mend some fences.  Now 
  the point: I just pulled about a mile of #11 soft drawn aluminum wire - 
  mostly in 50' to 100' lengths.  Normally its electrified and the cattle 
  won't touch it.  But last year the charger died and the cattle just 
  shredded the wire to get into my grassy meadow.
  
  So now I have all this aluminum wire that I would hate to throw away.  
  So I'm thinking of making a really good ground plane and putting up a 
  vertical of some kind.  I have enough scrap tubing to make about 38' or 
  so.  I was thinking of putting a remote tuner at the base of the 
  vertical as the length of coax to reach it will probably be at least 150'.
  
  So I'd be interested in comments on how to configure the radials in 
  terms of length and number.  I know there's some guys on this reflector 
  that real know a lot about this sort of thing.
  
  Thanks  73,
  Doug -- K0DXV
 
 
 
 
 
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Radials-for-vertical-tp7590705p7590725.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-30 Thread Don Wilhelm
I really was thinking of the main power connectors, but brain was sleep 
deprived after Field Day - However:


On the power source to the Bias Tee - of course!
If the bias tee was installed backwards in-line with the antenna, I 
would suggest that some thought be given to the gender of the connectors 
so it cannot be reversed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2014 1:36 AM, Michael Eberle wrote:


Anderson Power Poles on the antenna jack?

On 6/29/2014 11:19 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:



'Closing the barn door after the horse is gone' is not really 
helpful, but I would advocate the use of Anderson Power Pole 
connectors with fuses right at the power supply end of the power cord 
as prevention for the future.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/29/2014 11:23 PM, Mike Lewis wrote:

 Unfortunately this year in my excitement I carelessly installed the
DC block at the radio end BACKWARDS, sending the 13.8v from my 30 
switched

supply right into the antenna jack.


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[Elecraft] P3 problem - was Problem retrieving FW

2014-06-30 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Thanks to Dick for pointing me to manual FW loading. This worked very well and 
I now have both my K3 and P3's FW updated.

The reason I felt this was necessary:

Our Field Day was one typhoon after another with multiple heavy downpours and 
thunder/lightning. Through multiple shutdowns, our FD team faced this adversity 
well and we made the best of it - and had fun. We did however sustain some 
minor damage thought to be due to lightning bursts. Our digital station 
consists of my K3 / P3 with TXBPF filters, LDG 200 tuner, and an early model MH 
Microkeyer. The pre-FD checks were perfect. However, just before tee-time, when 
we turned everything on, we noticed that the computer was not seeing audio and 
the P3 showed no signal activity even though the radio was fine and signals 
were multiple.

Despite all attempts, we were left with trying a FW update. I took the K3 / P3 
home and did this. However, the P3 still does not see signals. I put my signal 
generator on the K3 at 50 uV and still no signal seen. Taking just the K3 back 
to the FD site, I hooked things up without the P3, hoping the audio issue would 
be corrected. No dice. The Microkeyer appears to be damaged as well. The audio 
was redirected directly from the computer to the radio, bypassing the 
Microkeyer, and that worked fine.

Bottom line is I need to get my P3 fixed and maybe I can get an 
out-of-production Microkeyer fixed as well. Ideas ?

73, Jamie
WB4YDL

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch

2014-06-30 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
I did a similar thing with my TS-850.  It smoked a lot of relays in the antenna 
tuner.  I had them replaced, but have not powered it up since It was returned.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Sunday, June 29, 2014 10:24 PM, Mike Lewis mlewi...@gmail.com wrote:
 


So about 20 minutes prior to starting another successful Field Day with my
trusty K3 I powered it up for the first time after connecting everything had
just started some tests when my buddy starting yelling that I was letting
some of the magic smoke out of the radio. Sure enough, there was smoke
coming out of the back of the radio. I dived over and pulled the power. To
make a long story short, I was running an S9 31' vertical antenna base tuned
with an SG-231 autotuner, with the auto tuner powered over the coax using DC
blocks. The exact same config as I ran with last year with wonderful
results. Unfortunately this year in my excitement I carelessly installed the
DC block at the radio end BACKWARDS, sending the 13.8v from my 30 switched
supply right into the antenna jack. After the incident I powered back up
with my finger on the off switch to try to assess the level of damage. The
radio puts out some power, but the SWR is infinite even into a dummy load. I
am not sure of the status of the receiver input chain as I didn't want to
put it back onto a real antenna.



So I am just wondering before I open it up what kind of damage I might find
and what kind of options I might have for repair. Has anyone heard of this
sort of a bonehead mistake? Any ideas on what I might have fried? Given this
is a mechanical assembly only kit is there any chance any of the parts are
going to be user serviceable? I love the radio and I'm hoping it is at least
salvageable.



Thanks for any insights,

Mike/KE0MF

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[Elecraft] KX3 one touch message buttons.

2014-06-30 Thread Sullivan, Mike C
I tried the one button messages for FD, not a huge change or time saver but it 
was very nice to have.
Thanks for adding it as an option for those that want to use it (just in time 
for FD too!!).

Mike Sullivan
73 WM0CW ..

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[Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread Doug Person via Elecraft
Thanks for all the advice guys.  The situation requires that the radials 
be placed at least slightly below the surface.  I'm always faced with 
the fact that my land is surrounded by open range which means that 
hundreds of head of cattle roam freely.  If my new fence charger fails 
then the cows will break the fence to get to the lush grass and hay 
storage reserved for my horses.  So, in order for the radials to not get 
tangled in the legs of my 1200lb kids as well as the elk, moose and deer 
that constantly move through my land, elevated radials would need to 
something like 20' in the air (moose are really big).  Getting them 
underground enough so a horse with steel horseshoes won't inadvertently 
dig one up while engaging in typical horse play (horsing around is a 
phrase with real meaning around here).


My soil is about 10-14 of old forest loam (what we call here duff) on 
top of a rocky layer followed by a substantial layer of clay.  An old 
chainsaw chain on a small saw will cut a groove through it like the 
proverbial knife through butter.  That should make getting it down about 
6 a simple task.  Soil conductivity changes dramatically depending on 
the season.  Moisture is held in the soil for many days after a 
rainstorm.  But by the dry season in August, its dry as dust. Winter 
here starts in October and lasts to April during which the ground is 
frozen solid to several feet.


So I guess my biggest concern is that the wire will corrode rapidly as 
K9HZ has suggested in a direct email.  I have numerous lengths of old 
aluminum lying on the ground at my antenna site.  There does not appear 
to be the slightest bit of visible corrosion.  But perhaps being 
literally under ground as opposed to lying on the ground makes a big 
difference.


So thanks for the reading links and suggestions.  I'll have to give this 
some serious time to study before deciding what to do.  I might turn it 
into a very large loop antenna at about 40 to 50'.  Having been attached 
to plastic insulators on 5' fence posts for the last 10 years, it shows 
absolutely no corrosion.  So I know it can stand up to the weather just 
fine.


73 and much thanks for the responses.

Doug -- K0DXV (Western slope of the Rockies at 8200+ feet)
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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread David Cole
Why not use a vertical dipole?  Gap sells them for single bands, or get
a multi-band Gap.  The Gap Challenger I have works really well on 40 and
20.  I would think a single band vertical dipole would do wonders, and
no radials...
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For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
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On Mon, 2014-06-30 at 10:37 -0600, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:
 Thanks for all the advice guys.  The situation requires that the radials 
 be placed at least slightly below the surface.  I'm always faced with 
 the fact that my land is surrounded by open range which means that 
 hundreds of head of cattle roam freely.  If my new fence charger fails 
 then the cows will break the fence to get to the lush grass and hay 
 storage reserved for my horses.  So, in order for the radials to not get 
 tangled in the legs of my 1200lb kids as well as the elk, moose and deer 
 that constantly move through my land, elevated radials would need to 
 something like 20' in the air (moose are really big).  Getting them 
 underground enough so a horse with steel horseshoes won't inadvertently 
 dig one up while engaging in typical horse play (horsing around is a 
 phrase with real meaning around here).
 
 My soil is about 10-14 of old forest loam (what we call here duff) on 
 top of a rocky layer followed by a substantial layer of clay.  An old 
 chainsaw chain on a small saw will cut a groove through it like the 
 proverbial knife through butter.  That should make getting it down about 
 6 a simple task.  Soil conductivity changes dramatically depending on 
 the season.  Moisture is held in the soil for many days after a 
 rainstorm.  But by the dry season in August, its dry as dust. Winter 
 here starts in October and lasts to April during which the ground is 
 frozen solid to several feet.
 
 So I guess my biggest concern is that the wire will corrode rapidly as 
 K9HZ has suggested in a direct email.  I have numerous lengths of old 
 aluminum lying on the ground at my antenna site.  There does not appear 
 to be the slightest bit of visible corrosion.  But perhaps being 
 literally under ground as opposed to lying on the ground makes a big 
 difference.
 
 So thanks for the reading links and suggestions.  I'll have to give this 
 some serious time to study before deciding what to do.  I might turn it 
 into a very large loop antenna at about 40 to 50'.  Having been attached 
 to plastic insulators on 5' fence posts for the last 10 years, it shows 
 absolutely no corrosion.  So I know it can stand up to the weather just 
 fine.
 
 73 and much thanks for the responses.
 
 Doug -- K0DXV (Western slope of the Rockies at 8200+ feet)
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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread Fred Jensen

On 6/30/2014 9:37 AM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:


Getting them
underground enough so a horse with steel horseshoes won't inadvertently
dig one up while engaging in typical horse play (horsing around is a
phrase with real meaning around here).


We refer to that as a fruitcake attack.  Never know what provokes it 
but something gets into their heads.  I've come to the conclusion that 
there's quite a bit of extra room in their heads. :-))



So I guess my biggest concern is that the wire will corrode rapidly as
K9HZ has suggested in a direct email.  I have numerous lengths of old
aluminum lying on the ground at my antenna site.  There does not appear
to be the slightest bit of visible corrosion.  But perhaps being
literally under ground as opposed to lying on the ground makes a big
difference.


I think that will depend on the pH of your soil.  I had some buried #12 
Al wire that traversed a flower bed with a couple of Camellias which 
like acidic soil.  The wire corroded badly in the bed from the 
fertilizer but the rest was as good as when I buried it when I finally 
pulled it up.



I might turn it
into a very large loop antenna at about 40 to 50'.


My guess is that you'll be happier with the loop than a non-resonant 
vertical.  Loops are usually quieter than verticals too, although that 
may not be a problem for you.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 one touch message buttons.

2014-06-30 Thread Igor Sokolov
I am using KX3 with computer logger called TR4W. I have put couple of macros 
into F1 and F2 an these activate two  SSB messages. Works pretty well and I 
do not use no buttons on the radio at all. Logger also does band changes, 
PTT and CW through just one USB port.


73, Igor UA9CDC

- Original Message - 
From: Sullivan, Mike C mike.c.sulli...@lmco.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 10:28 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 one touch message buttons.


I tried the one button messages for FD, not a huge change or time saver but 
it was very nice to have.
Thanks for adding it as an option for those that want to use it (just in 
time for FD too!!).


Mike Sullivan
73 WM0CW ..

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 one touch message buttons.

2014-06-30 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/30/2014 10:49 AM, Igor Sokolov wrote:
I am using KX3 with computer logger called TR4W. I have put couple of 
macros into F1 and F2 an these activate two SSB messages. Works pretty 
well and I do not use no buttons on the radio at all. Logger also does 
band changes, PTT and CW through just one USB port. 


Another excellent way to do messages for contests is to feed the mic 
input with the output of your computer sound card and use your contest 
logger to play the messages. I made up a cable with a 15dB attenuator to 
make that connection (two resistors inside the connector shells).


I do some QRP CW contesting (560 Qs over the weekend single-op, SO2R at 
home). I did that with a pair of K3s and the YCCC SO2R box. To contest 
with my KX3, I use a K1EL Winkey USB that is controlled by my Contest 
Logger (I use N1MM, but most contest loggers support WinKey). All it 
takes is an RCA to 1/8-in cable, with the keying line wired to tip and 
sleeve. I plug my paddle into the WinKey to send fills.


I'm pleased to see one-touch message buttons, but I'll use them for 
casual DXing, not for contests. Like Igor, I want a contest logger to 
keep the log for me, check for dupes, etc.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K3 50MHz tx distortion

2014-06-30 Thread Peter Torry
My SSB signal on 50 MHz is excessively wide and causing problems for 
other users therefore I am seeking any assistance in curing the problem.


Adjusting the mic gain or the comp level has no effect on signal width.  
The power supply voltage is stable and only varies by 100mV from standby 
to full output.  Examining the signal using the internal 2 tone test 
revealed severe IMD at full output but dramatically cleaned up when the 
power was reduced to 50W ( -3dB from peak).


I would appreciate any guidance on where to look next or if anyone has 
experience of this what effected a cure.


73

Peter

G3SMT
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[Elecraft] K3/P3 tuning oddities

2014-06-30 Thread ac2ev
Saturday and Sunday my K3 and P3 did a couple odd things.

First at around 14.268KHz as I tuned the P3 waterfall started shifting as I 
tuned. I have the P3 setup to be fix track? Where the green column moves rather 
the the whole display. When it got to 14.268 it acted like it switched modes 
but it was constantly shifting right as I tuned. I couldn't catch up to area 
if activity. If I went high or low enough below this frequency everything went 
back to normal. Tried power off/power on no change. I'll try and see if it does 
it tonight. 

The second thing that happened was on 40m I picked up a QSO and the P3 and K3 
showed I was tuning up and down but that station would not go away. So I don't 
think the K3 was actually changing frequency. I tried switching to VFO B, same 
station. I don't have a sub receiver. Powering off and on seemed to fix it.

There was a third anomaly that looked like a 15KHz wide signal on the P3 but I 
couldn't tune to it. It may be related to problem 1 above. 

Of note: the problem existed before and after I updated to latest firmware. Yes 
I updated my firmware in the middle of fieldday. Operating 1D so no other 
transmitters in immediate area.

73
AC2EV - Don
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[Elecraft] Possible phase noise question...

2014-06-30 Thread David Cole
Hi,
I have a friend who lives about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from me.  He is
running a 706 MK2G, at around 10 watts.  

In the past, while using a Pro III, when he came on, I was able to copy
and see signals using JT65, and work stations right next to him.  

After getting the K3, I believe I was able to do this as well, or
better...  Suddenly his signal is sprayed across the entire audio
spectrum to the point, I can't even tell what frequency he is on...  

I get a solid white block using WSJTx.  He and I enlisted a third
friend, to insure it was not just me that is seeing him as very wide.
The third friend lives about 4 to 5 miles from both of us, and is line
of site to my friend with teh 706 MK2G.  When the 706  MK2G lets loose,
I see the spray, but my friend does not...  He sees a nice tight signal.
It looks and sounds like phase noise...  However...

If he just does a Key down for CW at 50 watts, I can copy stations right
next to him...  It is as if his sound card, (Signal Link with internal
sound card), is adding a low level hiss to the audio, I see it due to
proximity, and my friend does not again, because he is much further
away...

This has started suddenly, and the owner of the 706 can not pin a change
to it...  We swapped in a different 706MK2G, and the same problem still
happens...

Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card before?


-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



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Re: [Elecraft] Possible phase noise question...

2014-06-30 Thread Phil Wheeler

No.  Can you swap to a different Signalink USB?

Phil W7OX

On 6/30/14, 12:45 PM, David Cole wrote:

Hi,
I have a friend who lives about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from me.  He is
running a 706 MK2G, at around 10 watts.

In the past, while using a Pro III, when he came on, I was able to copy
and see signals using JT65, and work stations right next to him.

After getting the K3, I believe I was able to do this as well, or
better...  Suddenly his signal is sprayed across the entire audio
spectrum to the point, I can't even tell what frequency he is on...

I get a solid white block using WSJTx.  He and I enlisted a third
friend, to insure it was not just me that is seeing him as very wide.
The third friend lives about 4 to 5 miles from both of us, and is line
of site to my friend with teh 706 MK2G.  When the 706  MK2G lets loose,
I see the spray, but my friend does not...  He sees a nice tight signal.
It looks and sounds like phase noise...  However...

If he just does a Key down for CW at 50 watts, I can copy stations right
next to him...  It is as if his sound card, (Signal Link with internal
sound card), is adding a low level hiss to the audio, I see it due to
proximity, and my friend does not again, because he is much further
away...

This has started suddenly, and the owner of the 706 can not pin a change
to it...  We swapped in a different 706MK2G, and the same problem still
happens...

Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card before?




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 FAST-PLAY field-test firmware now available (rev. 2.11)

2014-06-30 Thread Kenneth A Christiansen
Hi to the group. 
I updated my KX3 to this FAST-PLAY firmware just hours before field day 
started. I made 118 QRP battery contacts using the Fast-Play feature and had no 
troubles with the download or the firmware. I was able to leave most of the 
cables between my computer and the KX3 disconnected. I did use the KX3 to USB 
interface so the N3FJP software could log my frequency for each contact. I 
found by using FAST-PLAY on the KX3 that I did not have to touch the mouse as 
N3FJP just kept doing what I wanted and the KX3 was handy beside the computer. 
A touch of 2 buttons completed most contacts. The built in paddle was used 
about twice during the entire contest. Once again thanks Wayne as I considered 
this a wonderful improvement to the firmware.

Sent from my iPad

 On Jun 27, 2014, at 2:05 PM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
 
 Several KX3 users have now tested the new fast-play feature (see operating 
 details below), so we're making the firmware available for those who don't 
 mind working with a field-test release. It'll be a great feature for Field 
 Day, but you'll want to get it downloaded and tested before hand. 
 
 The rev. 2.11 firmware can be found on this page:
 
   ftp://ftp.elecraft.com/KX3/firmware/beta/
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Possible phase noise question...

2014-06-30 Thread David Cole
I might be able too...  I have a 4th friend with one! :)

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Mon, 2014-06-30 at 13:39 -0700, Phil Wheeler wrote:
 No.  Can you swap to a different Signalink USB?
 
 Phil W7OX
 
 On 6/30/14, 12:45 PM, David Cole wrote:
  Hi,
  I have a friend who lives about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from me.  He is
  running a 706 MK2G, at around 10 watts.
 
  In the past, while using a Pro III, when he came on, I was able to copy
  and see signals using JT65, and work stations right next to him.
 
  After getting the K3, I believe I was able to do this as well, or
  better...  Suddenly his signal is sprayed across the entire audio
  spectrum to the point, I can't even tell what frequency he is on...
 
  I get a solid white block using WSJTx.  He and I enlisted a third
  friend, to insure it was not just me that is seeing him as very wide.
  The third friend lives about 4 to 5 miles from both of us, and is line
  of site to my friend with teh 706 MK2G.  When the 706  MK2G lets loose,
  I see the spray, but my friend does not...  He sees a nice tight signal.
  It looks and sounds like phase noise...  However...
 
  If he just does a Key down for CW at 50 watts, I can copy stations right
  next to him...  It is as if his sound card, (Signal Link with internal
  sound card), is adding a low level hiss to the audio, I see it due to
  proximity, and my friend does not again, because he is much further
  away...
 
  This has started suddenly, and the owner of the 706 can not pin a change
  to it...  We swapped in a different 706MK2G, and the same problem still
  happens...
 
  Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card before?
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread Bill Adams
The soil property that relates to electrical conductivity is cation exchange 
capacity or CEC. A web app that can help you estimate conductivity is Web Soil 
Survey located at http://websoilsurvey.sc.egov.usda.gov/App/HomePage.htm 

After finding your location, navigate to chemical properties and look for 
conductivity.


Bill AF4B
 


On Monday, June 30, 2014 11:52 AM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
  


On 6/30/2014 9:37 AM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:

 Getting them
 underground enough so a horse with steel horseshoes won't inadvertently
 dig one up while engaging in typical horse play (horsing around is a
 phrase with real meaning around here).

We refer to that as a fruitcake attack.  Never know what provokes it 
but something gets into their heads.  I've come to the conclusion that 
there's quite a bit of extra room in their heads. :-))

 So I guess my biggest concern is that the wire will corrode rapidly as
 K9HZ has suggested in a direct email.  I have numerous lengths of old
 aluminum lying on the ground at my antenna site.  There does not appear
 to be the slightest bit of visible corrosion.  But perhaps being
 literally under ground as opposed to lying on the ground makes a big
 difference.

I think that will depend on the pH of your soil.  I had some buried #12 
Al wire that traversed a flower bed with a couple of Camellias which 
like acidic soil.  The wire corroded badly in the bed from the 
fertilizer but the rest was as good as when I buried it when I finally 
pulled it up.

I might turn it
 into a very large loop antenna at about 40 to 50'.

My guess is that you'll be happier with the loop than a non-resonant 
vertical.  Loops are usually quieter than verticals too, although that 
may not be a problem for you.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Possible phase noise question...

2014-06-30 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card
 before?

Yes.  Did your friend change computers, connect Signalink to a
different port, add (or remove) an externally powered hub?

Signalink has documented design issues - it lacks the V/2 regulator
for the codec as recommended by the chip vendor, has a severe lack
of bypasses on the 5V bus, insufficient filtering on the USB power
(which becomes the 5V bus) and no regulation.  If the computer's USB
power becomes noisy/unstable, that noise is imposed directly on the
audio output of the codec *and* is further modulated on the audio
via bias to the op-amp audio stages.

See documentation of the defects (and modifications to fix some of
the shortcomings - including schematics) here:
http://www.frenning.dk/OZ1PIF_HOMEPAGE/SignaLinkUSB-mods.html

If one wants a higher performance interface at a lower cost that
will do everything that a Signalink will do and is willing to melt
a little solder see: http://www.g4ilo.com/usblink.html

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 2014-06-30 3:45 PM, David Cole wrote:

Hi,
I have a friend who lives about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from me.  He is
running a 706 MK2G, at around 10 watts.

In the past, while using a Pro III, when he came on, I was able to copy
and see signals using JT65, and work stations right next to him.

After getting the K3, I believe I was able to do this as well, or
better...  Suddenly his signal is sprayed across the entire audio
spectrum to the point, I can't even tell what frequency he is on...

I get a solid white block using WSJTx.  He and I enlisted a third
friend, to insure it was not just me that is seeing him as very wide.
The third friend lives about 4 to 5 miles from both of us, and is line
of site to my friend with teh 706 MK2G.  When the 706  MK2G lets loose,
I see the spray, but my friend does not...  He sees a nice tight signal.
It looks and sounds like phase noise...  However...

If he just does a Key down for CW at 50 watts, I can copy stations right
next to him...  It is as if his sound card, (Signal Link with internal
sound card), is adding a low level hiss to the audio, I see it due to
proximity, and my friend does not again, because he is much further
away...

This has started suddenly, and the owner of the 706 can not pin a change
to it...  We swapped in a different 706MK2G, and the same problem still
happens...

Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card before?



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Re: [Elecraft] Possible phase noise question...

2014-06-30 Thread David Cole
Joe,

Thank you so very much, yes he did change computers...  :)  Also, the
additional information will help in solving this...  I'll pass all of
this on to him!

Joe, you are a bottomless pit of handy things to know, thank you again!

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Mon, 2014-06-30 at 19:04 -0400, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
   Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card
   before?
 
 Yes.  Did your friend change computers, connect Signalink to a
 different port, add (or remove) an externally powered hub?
 
 Signalink has documented design issues - it lacks the V/2 regulator
 for the codec as recommended by the chip vendor, has a severe lack
 of bypasses on the 5V bus, insufficient filtering on the USB power
 (which becomes the 5V bus) and no regulation.  If the computer's USB
 power becomes noisy/unstable, that noise is imposed directly on the
 audio output of the codec *and* is further modulated on the audio
 via bias to the op-amp audio stages.
 
 See documentation of the defects (and modifications to fix some of
 the shortcomings - including schematics) here:
 http://www.frenning.dk/OZ1PIF_HOMEPAGE/SignaLinkUSB-mods.html
 
 If one wants a higher performance interface at a lower cost that
 will do everything that a Signalink will do and is willing to melt
 a little solder see: http://www.g4ilo.com/usblink.html
 
 73,
 
 ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 2014-06-30 3:45 PM, David Cole wrote:
  Hi,
  I have a friend who lives about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from me.  He is
  running a 706 MK2G, at around 10 watts.
 
  In the past, while using a Pro III, when he came on, I was able to copy
  and see signals using JT65, and work stations right next to him.
 
  After getting the K3, I believe I was able to do this as well, or
  better...  Suddenly his signal is sprayed across the entire audio
  spectrum to the point, I can't even tell what frequency he is on...
 
  I get a solid white block using WSJTx.  He and I enlisted a third
  friend, to insure it was not just me that is seeing him as very wide.
  The third friend lives about 4 to 5 miles from both of us, and is line
  of site to my friend with teh 706 MK2G.  When the 706  MK2G lets loose,
  I see the spray, but my friend does not...  He sees a nice tight signal.
  It looks and sounds like phase noise...  However...
 
  If he just does a Key down for CW at 50 watts, I can copy stations right
  next to him...  It is as if his sound card, (Signal Link with internal
  sound card), is adding a low level hiss to the audio, I see it due to
  proximity, and my friend does not again, because he is much further
  away...
 
  This has started suddenly, and the owner of the 706 can not pin a change
  to it...  We swapped in a different 706MK2G, and the same problem still
  happens...
 
  Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card before?
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/P3 tuning oddities

2014-06-30 Thread Alan Bloom

Don,

 ... as I tuned the P3 waterfall started
 shifting as I tuned. I have the P3 setup to be fix track

Check the FixMode menu selection.  It sounds like it might be set to 
Slide.


Alan N1AL


On 06/30/2014 11:40 AM, ac2ev wrote:

Saturday and Sunday my K3 and P3 did a couple odd things.

First at around 14.268KHz as I tuned the P3 waterfall started
shifting as I tuned. I have the P3 setup to be fix track? Where the
green column moves rather the the whole display. When it got to
14.268 it acted like it switched modes but it was constantly shifting
right as I tuned. I couldn't catch up to area if activity. If I
went high or low enough below this frequency everything went back to
normal. Tried power off/power on no change. I'll try and see if it
does it tonight.

The second thing that happened was on 40m I picked up a QSO and the
P3 and K3 showed I was tuning up and down but that station would not
go away. So I don't think the K3 was actually changing frequency. I
tried switching to VFO B, same station. I don't have a sub receiver.
Powering off and on seemed to fix it.

There was a third anomaly that looked like a 15KHz wide signal on the
P3 but I couldn't tune to it. It may be related to problem 1 above.

Of note: the problem existed before and after I updated to latest
firmware. Yes I updated my firmware in the middle of fieldday.
Operating 1D so no other transmitters in immediate area.

73 AC2EV - Don
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[Elecraft] Logging software advice

2014-06-30 Thread Phil Shepard
For logging, I have been running Logic 9 on an HP Windows 7 laptop.  A few days 
ago the four year old laptop died (hard disk failure).  I was using an Elecraft 
RS232 to USB adapter cable for the computer to K3 link.

So, I am looking for a new setup for the K3 (and maybe KX3 too).  I have run 
out of interest in Windows PCs and have been converting to Apple devices over 
the last year and a half.  I’d like to use an iPAD for the logging and perhaps 
rig control computer.  I have downloaded both RumLog and HamLog to play with.  
I used HamLog’s Field Day log this past weekend and liked it.

My questions are around the computer/rig interface.  Is there any reasonable 
way to use the RS232/USB cable with the iPad?  It looks like both RumLog and 
HamLog work with the Pignology Piglet to network between the computer and rig.  
Reading the Piglet manual shows a way to use a Piglet generated network to talk 
to the rig.  Can this setup also connect simultaneously to my home WiFi for 
other internet based functions?  Is there any other issue that I should be 
concerned about with this setup?

Thanks in advance,

73,
Phil, NS7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 50MHz tx distortion

2014-06-30 Thread KB9WMJ
Perhaps you accidentally turned on ESSB?

Tap the Config menu, and find TX ESSB.  It should be set at 'OFF 3.0'. 
Pressing '1' turns it on and off.

Keith
KB9WMJ
- Original Message - 
From: Peter Torry peter.to...@talktalk.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 1:21 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 50MHz tx distortion


My SSB signal on 50 MHz is excessively wide and causing problems for
other users therefore I am seeking any assistance in curing the problem.

Adjusting the mic gain or the comp level has no effect on signal width.
The power supply voltage is stable and only varies by 100mV from standby
to full output.  Examining the signal using the internal 2 tone test
revealed severe IMD at full output but dramatically cleaned up when the
power was reduced to 50W ( -3dB from peak).

I would appreciate any guidance on where to look next or if anyone has
experience of this what effected a cure.

73

Peter

G3SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] Possible phase noise question...

2014-06-30 Thread Matt VK2RQ
If fact, the circuitry for that very nice homebrew solution is for VOX. If 
you have a modern radio like the K2/KX3/K3, it most probably has a VOX circuit 
already built in, so the melting solder part reduces to simply putting the 
right connectors on the end of some cables.

73,
Matt VK2RQ

 On 1 Jul 2014, at 9:04 am, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
 
 
  Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card
  before?
 
 Yes.  Did your friend change computers, connect Signalink to a
 different port, add (or remove) an externally powered hub?
 
 Signalink has documented design issues - it lacks the V/2 regulator
 for the codec as recommended by the chip vendor, has a severe lack
 of bypasses on the 5V bus, insufficient filtering on the USB power
 (which becomes the 5V bus) and no regulation.  If the computer's USB
 power becomes noisy/unstable, that noise is imposed directly on the
 audio output of the codec *and* is further modulated on the audio
 via bias to the op-amp audio stages.
 
 See documentation of the defects (and modifications to fix some of
 the shortcomings - including schematics) here:
 http://www.frenning.dk/OZ1PIF_HOMEPAGE/SignaLinkUSB-mods.html
 
 If one wants a higher performance interface at a lower cost that
 will do everything that a Signalink will do and is willing to melt
 a little solder see: http://www.g4ilo.com/usblink.html
 
 73,
 
   ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 2014-06-30 3:45 PM, David Cole wrote:
 Hi,
 I have a friend who lives about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from me.  He is
 running a 706 MK2G, at around 10 watts.
 
 In the past, while using a Pro III, when he came on, I was able to copy
 and see signals using JT65, and work stations right next to him.
 
 After getting the K3, I believe I was able to do this as well, or
 better...  Suddenly his signal is sprayed across the entire audio
 spectrum to the point, I can't even tell what frequency he is on...
 
 I get a solid white block using WSJTx.  He and I enlisted a third
 friend, to insure it was not just me that is seeing him as very wide.
 The third friend lives about 4 to 5 miles from both of us, and is line
 of site to my friend with teh 706 MK2G.  When the 706  MK2G lets loose,
 I see the spray, but my friend does not...  He sees a nice tight signal.
 It looks and sounds like phase noise...  However...
 
 If he just does a Key down for CW at 50 watts, I can copy stations right
 next to him...  It is as if his sound card, (Signal Link with internal
 sound card), is adding a low level hiss to the audio, I see it due to
 proximity, and my friend does not again, because he is much further
 away...
 
 This has started suddenly, and the owner of the 706 can not pin a change
 to it...  We swapped in a different 706MK2G, and the same problem still
 happens...
 
 Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card before?
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[Elecraft] Ouch - An Update

2014-06-30 Thread Mike Lewis
So brought the K3 in to work this morning to our lab area where we have
static benches, blowers, wrist straps etc. and opened it up. Sure enough,
the T4 transformer was pretty crispy looking. My boss who is also an avid
ham (dream job setup :) ) then sprang into action. He removed the
transformer, counted the turns, removed the old wire, found some new magnet
wire of the proper gauge, rewound the toroid, and replaced both it and the
straight through portion (which had gotten pretty hot from the proximity to
the core.) Prior to stripping the burned turns off of T4 we looked at it
under a microscope and saw that the windings had burned open in one place,
effectively acting as a fuse of sorts. There didn't seem tpo be any other
parts, connectors, or board traces that looked to have been stressed. I
brought the radio home and hooked it up to a dummy load and a reasonably
accurate external wattmeter. It seems to be fine, both on receive and
transmit. 

 

I was hoping there was a built in SWR bridge cal procedure, but I didn't see
anything like that in the manual. The SWR values reported though seem to
match the LP-100A I am using externally pretty closely. I did try to follow
the Wattmeter calibration and ran into some confusion on the procedure as
written in the manual. I think I was able to puzzle it all out except for
one item - how do you change the config menu item from CONFIG:WTMR LP to
CONFIG:WTMR HP? It doesn't seem to change just by having the tune power
changed to 50 watts, so I am at a loss on how to change it.

 

So perhaps my K3 is now alright again, although I would appreciate any other
comments on other things to check or calibrate. And thanks to all on the
list who helped me out. After this the next project is to fuse the DC supply
cables to my DC blocks with some rationally small value of fast blow fuse :)

 

de Mike/KE0MF

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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch - An Update

2014-06-30 Thread Tony Estep
On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 9:40 PM, Mike Lewis mlewi...@gmail.com wrote:

 My boss... then sprang into action. He removed the
 transformer, counted the turns, removed the old wire, found some new
 magnet wire.

==
Mike, you have the right job, or at least the right boss!

Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch - An Update

2014-06-30 Thread Matt VK2RQ
I'd suggest to replace the toroid core, as the high temperatures to which it 
was subjected may have altered the characteristics of the material.

73,
Matt VK2RQ

 On 1 Jul 2014, at 12:40 pm, Mike Lewis mlewi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 So brought the K3 in to work this morning to our lab area where we have
 static benches, blowers, wrist straps etc. and opened it up. Sure enough,
 the T4 transformer was pretty crispy looking. My boss who is also an avid
 ham (dream job setup :) ) then sprang into action. He removed the
 transformer, counted the turns, removed the old wire, found some new magnet
 wire of the proper gauge, rewound the toroid, and replaced both it and the
 straight through portion (which had gotten pretty hot from the proximity to
 the core.) Prior to stripping the burned turns off of T4 we looked at it
 under a microscope and saw that the windings had burned open in one place,
 effectively acting as a fuse of sorts. There didn't seem tpo be any other
 parts, connectors, or board traces that looked to have been stressed. I
 brought the radio home and hooked it up to a dummy load and a reasonably
 accurate external wattmeter. It seems to be fine, both on receive and
 transmit. 
 
 
 
 I was hoping there was a built in SWR bridge cal procedure, but I didn't see
 anything like that in the manual. The SWR values reported though seem to
 match the LP-100A I am using externally pretty closely. I did try to follow
 the Wattmeter calibration and ran into some confusion on the procedure as
 written in the manual. I think I was able to puzzle it all out except for
 one item - how do you change the config menu item from CONFIG:WTMR LP to
 CONFIG:WTMR HP? It doesn't seem to change just by having the tune power
 changed to 50 watts, so I am at a loss on how to change it.
 
 
 
 So perhaps my K3 is now alright again, although I would appreciate any other
 comments on other things to check or calibrate. And thanks to all on the
 list who helped me out. After this the next project is to fuse the DC supply
 cables to my DC blocks with some rationally small value of fast blow fuse :)
 
 
 
 de Mike/KE0MF
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread Doug Person via Elecraft
Well, the point was having all this aluminum wire that I didn't want to 
throw away.  A vertical dipole is very much on the agenda for things to 
try this Summer.  In this case, I am experimenting: how well does a 38' 
vertical fed with a remote tuner work with 30 to 40 radials buried 3 
inches beneath the top soil?  The radiator is already put together from 
scrapes of mill tubing - not exactly a work of art - but effective none 
the less.


I have a Hy-Gain AV-620 mounted at a high point in the meadow elevated 
to about 6'.  I wouldn't consider it a remarkable performer.  But it has 
fine SWR bandwidth on all bands 20 through 6 and is very capable of 
making plenty of Qs.  I did have a GAP Titan when I lived in suburban 
Charlotte, NC many years ago, hidden in the trees and painted flat 
black.  It was completely invisible even to my next door neighbors.  I 
would define it as a versatile antenna giving reasonable, usable 
performance on 80 through 10.  If you have a little copse of trees any 
of these no-radial wonders can get you on the air.  Flat black paint 
does an amazing job of making them disappear - especially in pine trees.


I guess its possible the aluminum wire may not last long in the ground.  
Another aspect of the experiment.


73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 6/30/2014 10:40 AM, David Cole wrote:

Why not use a vertical dipole?  Gap sells them for single bands, or get
a multi-band Gap.  The Gap Challenger I have works really well on 40 and
20.  I would think a single band vertical dipole would do wonders, and
no radials...


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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch - An Update

2014-06-30 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/30/2014 7:56 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:

I'd suggest to replace the toroid core, as the high temperatures to which it 
was subjected may have altered the characteristics of the material.


Ferrite materials have to get pretty hot for that to happen. My guess is 
that the thermal mass might be large enough that the wire fried before 
that point. It might be worth asking Elecraft, but I'd take the approach 
that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :)


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread Doug Person via Elecraft

Hi Fred,

Horses, especially my mare (16.2), have huge heads and tiny brains. I am 
always confounded by what she chooses to define as scary.  It is the 
gelding, however, that appears to be in charge of play time. They are 
often a riot to watch when they seem to get a grass high on the sweet, 
rich meadow grass.


I have so much wire that a set of radials AND a large loop are very 
possible.  It's just a matter of what time I feel like spending on 
them.  Just finding out how aluminum works as radiator in a wire antenna 
will be interesting.


I don't have any idea what the pH is like in the loamy, old forest floor 
of the meadow.  Never been touched by fertilizer of any kind. So we'll 
have to see whether the aluminum turns to powder or not.


73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 6/30/2014 10:52 AM, Fred Jensen wrote:

On 6/30/2014 9:37 AM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:


Getting them
underground enough so a horse with steel horseshoes won't inadvertently
dig one up while engaging in typical horse play (horsing around is a
phrase with real meaning around here).


We refer to that as a fruitcake attack.  Never know what provokes it 
but something gets into their heads.  I've come to the conclusion that 
there's quite a bit of extra room in their heads. :-))



So I guess my biggest concern is that the wire will corrode rapidly as
K9HZ has suggested in a direct email.  I have numerous lengths of old
aluminum lying on the ground at my antenna site.  There does not appear
to be the slightest bit of visible corrosion.  But perhaps being
literally under ground as opposed to lying on the ground makes a big
difference.


I think that will depend on the pH of your soil.  I had some buried 
#12 Al wire that traversed a flower bed with a couple of Camellias 
which like acidic soil.  The wire corroded badly in the bed from the 
fertilizer but the rest was as good as when I buried it when I finally 
pulled it up.



I might turn it
into a very large loop antenna at about 40 to 50'.


My guess is that you'll be happier with the loop than a non-resonant 
vertical.  Loops are usually quieter than verticals too, although that 
may not be a problem for you.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org


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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch - An Update

2014-06-30 Thread Robert Friess
Congrats Mike,

Bob, N6CM


On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 8:55 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
wrote:

 On 6/30/2014 7:56 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:

 I'd suggest to replace the toroid core, as the high temperatures to which
 it was subjected may have altered the characteristics of the material.


 Ferrite materials have to get pretty hot for that to happen. My guess is
 that the thermal mass might be large enough that the wire fried before that
 point. It might be worth asking Elecraft, but I'd take the approach that if
 it ain't broke, don't fix it. :)

 73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Radials for Verticals

2014-06-30 Thread Jim Brown

On 6/30/2014 8:49 PM, Doug Person via Elecraft wrote:
A vertical dipole is very much on the agenda for things to try this 
Summer. 


As others have noted, N6LF's website is a goldmine for understanding 
radials, the performance of verticals, and other antenna issues. The 
ON4UN book is also worthwhile.


You might also want to study some of the antenna planning presentations 
on my website. k9yc.com/publish.htm  In addition to the obvious ones on 
vertical antenna height and a comparison of vertical and horizontal 
antennas at various heights, and with various ground quality, there's 
also one about getting on 160M from a relatively small lot, which is 
mostly about radial and counterpoise systems.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Ouch - An Update

2014-06-30 Thread mcduffie
On Mon, 30 Jun 2014 20:40:45 -0600, Mike Lewis wrote:

 He removed the
 transformer, counted the turns, removed the old wire, found some new magnet
 wire of the proper gauge, rewound the toroid, and replaced both it and the
 straight through portion (which had gotten pretty hot from the proximity to
 the core.)

From experience, I can tell you that it is likely that the toroid was ruined by
the heat.  Once you heat it, the value changes, permanently, even if you replace
the wire.  I cooked a few in antenna tuners back in the 80s, before I learned
the cause.

I'd recommend you order a replacement (probably not expensive) and replace it at
your earliest convenience.  Also check with Elecraft about what other parts you
should check.  Be sure to tell them what happened, so they can accurately
estimate what issues you could have caused.

Gary - AG0N
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Re: [Elecraft] Possible phase noise question...

2014-06-30 Thread David Cole
Here is a bit more info on the issue...

If my friend moves his frequency just out of the radio passband, as
shown on the P3, the problem go away...  The base noise level drops back
down to normal...  Only when his signal is within the passband as shown
on the P3 does the base noise level rise...  I also narrowed the filter
down to eliminate his signal, and as soon as his signal movers out of
the pass band, the problem ends...

Is it just that the K3 is not dealing with his signal levels?  This
happens when he is running 5 Watts, and he is 1/2 mile from me...

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
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http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Mon, 2014-06-30 at 13:39 -0700, Phil Wheeler wrote:
 No.  Can you swap to a different Signalink USB?
 
 Phil W7OX
 
 On 6/30/14, 12:45 PM, David Cole wrote:
  Hi,
  I have a friend who lives about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from me.  He is
  running a 706 MK2G, at around 10 watts.
 
  In the past, while using a Pro III, when he came on, I was able to copy
  and see signals using JT65, and work stations right next to him.
 
  After getting the K3, I believe I was able to do this as well, or
  better...  Suddenly his signal is sprayed across the entire audio
  spectrum to the point, I can't even tell what frequency he is on...
 
  I get a solid white block using WSJTx.  He and I enlisted a third
  friend, to insure it was not just me that is seeing him as very wide.
  The third friend lives about 4 to 5 miles from both of us, and is line
  of site to my friend with teh 706 MK2G.  When the 706  MK2G lets loose,
  I see the spray, but my friend does not...  He sees a nice tight signal.
  It looks and sounds like phase noise...  However...
 
  If he just does a Key down for CW at 50 watts, I can copy stations right
  next to him...  It is as if his sound card, (Signal Link with internal
  sound card), is adding a low level hiss to the audio, I see it due to
  proximity, and my friend does not again, because he is much further
  away...
 
  This has started suddenly, and the owner of the 706 can not pin a change
  to it...  We swapped in a different 706MK2G, and the same problem still
  happens...
 
  Has anyone heard of this happening with a SignalLink sound card before?
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Logging software advice

2014-06-30 Thread Nick Garner
Hi Phil,
The Piglet creates a wireless network out of the box.  It is possible to
reconfigure the Piglet to join a home wireless network or a hotspot network
created by a mobile device.  When using it with iOS it's also possible to
reconfigure the Piglet to create an ad-hoc wireless network allowing for
simultaneous Wi-Fi and 3G/4G connectivity for rig control and callsign
lookups.  This reconfiguration can be done with a null modem adapter or
cable.

73,
Nick
N3WG


On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 5:21 PM, Phil Shepard ph...@riousa.com wrote:

 For logging, I have been running Logic 9 on an HP Windows 7 laptop.  A few
 days ago the four year old laptop died (hard disk failure).  I was using an
 Elecraft RS232 to USB adapter cable for the computer to K3 link.

 So, I am looking for a new setup for the K3 (and maybe KX3 too).  I have
 run out of interest in Windows PCs and have been converting to Apple
 devices over the last year and a half.  I’d like to use an iPAD for the
 logging and perhaps rig control computer.  I have downloaded both RumLog
 and HamLog to play with.  I used HamLog’s Field Day log this past weekend
 and liked it.

 My questions are around the computer/rig interface.  Is there any
 reasonable way to use the RS232/USB cable with the iPad?  It looks like
 both RumLog and HamLog work with the Pignology Piglet to network between
 the computer and rig.  Reading the Piglet manual shows a way to use a
 Piglet generated network to talk to the rig.  Can this setup also connect
 simultaneously to my home WiFi for other internet based functions?  Is
 there any other issue that I should be concerned about with this setup?

 Thanks in advance,

 73,
 Phil, NS7P
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