[Elecraft] FS: K3/100 w/Options

[Ken K3IU]

I recently purchased a new K3s and no longer have use for my 
old K3 friend #202. Of course, it is not pristine having 
been opened up and put back together many times over the 
last 9 year, but it is fully functional to original specs 
and has been well maintained over the years with all known 
official mods and updates applicable to this serial number. 
Additionally, it has the new and improved synthesizer 
board(KSYN3A) and Interface module (KXV3B) installed (Same 
as in new K3s). Upon request, I will provide a listing of 
all mods and updates accomplished. I am the original owner 
and radio has always been in a non-smoking environment.


This is a K3/100 with the following options/updates installed.

K3/100 s/n 202
KPA3100 watt Internal PA
KAT3  Auto Tuner unit
KSYN3ANew Synthesizer board. Same as is in the K3s ($220)
KXV3B  New with 2 level preamp for 6, 10, & 12 meters. 
Same as in the K3s ($200)

Standard 5 pole 2.7 kHz crystal filter

All manuals, documentation, update details, power cord, hex 
wrenches, and RF board jumper block included.


A new similarly equipped K3 sells for about $3200 plus s/h. 
Asking $2295 shipped UPS ground to CONUS. Will accept 
PayPal, USPS Money Order or bank draft.


Please reply off-reflector to 

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[Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

[Bruce Nourish]

Hi folks,

For 40m, 30m, and 20m, the KX1 docs recommend a ~24' length of
sorta-vertical #24 wire with shorter counterpoises as a good field antenna.
I've set that up for my KX1 and KX3, and (unsurprisingly) it works well on
both.

For 80m, the KX1 docs recommend a resonant antenna, and I'm considering my
options. Most of what's written out there about low band antennas seems to
be about durable (and heavy) mobile or home installations. Does anyone have
any experience they'd like to share with backpackable lower band antennas?

Options and questions I'm considering include:

* Build a coil big enough to load up my 24' vertical on 80m, with a tap for
60m. Will that be a long enough radiator?

* Figure out the kite-vertical thing, fly a wire close enough to l/4 that
the KX1 can tune it. How bulky would that be?

* Will #24 wire be a decent radiator for the lower bands, or should I eat
the (not-inconsiderable) weight of a bigger gauge?

* Does anyone have any tips on constructing backpackable (minimum weight)
coils? What's the smallest wire and lightest insulator?

* I'm planning a vertical, as this would seem to require strictly less wire
and coils than any dipole or inverted vee, but am I missing some other
offsetting advantage?

Cheers,
Bruce
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

[Nr4c]

I've had good luck with antennas made from RS 22 AWG Speaker wire and an 
Elecraft BL-2 BALUN. A 100 ft spool will yield a 135' doublet with about 30+ 
feet of "twinlead" feed line. You can make insulators from pieces of plastic 
toothbrush handles. Add a kite wonder from BuddiPole or other QRP sites and all 
you need is a tree for a Inverted V.  It's also neat to make it an OCF by 
taking about 20' off one end and splicing it to the other end. Then when you 
put the center over a tree, the feed point is to one side. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:59 PM, Bruce Nourish  wrote:
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> For 40m, 30m, and 20m, the KX1 docs recommend a ~24' length of
> sorta-vertical #24 wire with shorter counterpoises as a good field antenna.
> I've set that up for my KX1 and KX3, and (unsurprisingly) it works well on
> both.
> 
> For 80m, the KX1 docs recommend a resonant antenna, and I'm considering my
> options. Most of what's written out there about low band antennas seems to
> be about durable (and heavy) mobile or home installations. Does anyone have
> any experience they'd like to share with backpackable lower band antennas?
> 
> Options and questions I'm considering include:
> 
> * Build a coil big enough to load up my 24' vertical on 80m, with a tap for
> 60m. Will that be a long enough radiator?
> 
> * Figure out the kite-vertical thing, fly a wire close enough to l/4 that
> the KX1 can tune it. How bulky would that be?
> 
> * Will #24 wire be a decent radiator for the lower bands, or should I eat
> the (not-inconsiderable) weight of a bigger gauge?
> 
> * Does anyone have any tips on constructing backpackable (minimum weight)
> coils? What's the smallest wire and lightest insulator?
> 
> * I'm planning a vertical, as this would seem to require strictly less wire
> and coils than any dipole or inverted vee, but am I missing some other
> offsetting advantage?
> 
> Cheers,
> Bruce
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[Elecraft] K3s no TX

[chris grier]

HI I switched on my K3s today and there is no RF coming out of it when I 
press my Key
I can hear that the pre driver is working by using another RX, Has this 
happened to anyone
on the list, looks like the PA has stopped working.be fore I contact 
Elecraft

thanks  Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

[Brian Hunt]

Hi Bruce,

Have you thought about using a 9:1 unun and about 100 ft of wire with a 
short counterpoise?  The unun -may- get the feed point Z down into the 
range where the KX1 tuner can match it.  I picked 100 ft because it's 
not a quarter wave or half wave on either 80 or 60 plus and it's more 
than a quarter wave on 80.  You could go to 50 ft but it would be less 
efficient on 80 meters.


An alternative to the unun would be to use a matching network consisting 
of a link coupled tuned tank circuit.  Tap the resonant coil to get both 
80 and 60 and tap the link every turn for 6 - 8 turns to get close to 50 
ohms.  Wind the coils on a small (~1.5 inch) powered iron toroid and use 
a small BC band variable cap.  For under 20 watts the components would 
be light weight and fit in a small plastic box.


Have fun!

Brian, K0DTJ

On 3/15/2016 09:59, Bruce Nourish wrote:

For 80m, the KX1 docs recommend a resonant antenna, and I'm considering my
options. Most of what's written out there about low band antennas seems to
be about durable (and heavy) mobile or home installations. Does anyone have
any experience they'd like to share with backpackable lower band antennas?




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[Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Chris Hallinan]

Greetings all.

We are considering moving to a location that is more friendly to ham radio
and especially the performance of my K3.  Here in our crowded neighborhood,
I have regular S7 noise levels on all the lower HF bands.  One home we
found (and like) sits fairly close to high tension wires (ie like one lot
away) however its in a much more rural area and likely to be more quite
w.r.t. the usual man-made RF hash.

Does anyone have any experience with living very close to high tension
wires (not tool close, plenty of room for wire antennas without any
danger.)  Assuming nothing is "broken" is it likely to produce RF noise in
the receiver?  Is this something I should be concerned about?

Thanks, and replies off list are appreciated to avoid the wrath of the list
moderator 

Regards,

Chris
K1AY

-- 
Life is like Linux - it never stands still.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[w4grj]

They are all different,  one good way to find out is tune around on your car AM 
radio it will give you a good idea of rf noise level.JackW4GRJ


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S®6 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone 
Original message From: Chris Hallinan  Date: 
3/15/2016  15:17  (GMT-05:00) To: "" 
 Subject: [Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires 
Greetings all.

We are considering moving to a location that is more friendly to ham radio
and especially the performance of my K3.  Here in our crowded neighborhood,
I have regular S7 noise levels on all the lower HF bands.  One home we
found (and like) sits fairly close to high tension wires (ie like one lot
away) however its in a much more rural area and likely to be more quite
w.r.t. the usual man-made RF hash.

Does anyone have any experience with living very close to high tension
wires (not tool close, plenty of room for wire antennas without any
danger.)  Assuming nothing is "broken" is it likely to produce RF noise in
the receiver?  Is this something I should be concerned about?

Thanks, and replies off list are appreciated to avoid the wrath of the list
moderator 

Regards,

Chris
K1AY

-- 
Life is like Linux - it never stands still.
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[Elecraft] Fwd: OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Rose]

Hi Chris!

It sounds like you're speaking of a distribution line.  Do you have
any idea that the voltage is?  Is there more than one pole at each
cross arm?  It could be almost anything up to 240 KV ... or more.
In my semi-rural area the voltage for distribution is 14.4 KV, which
is pretty usual these days.

Do you have any contact with other hams in the area?  If so, what
are their experiences with noise and dealing with the local power
company?  Some companies are very good about dealing with
noise matters ...others are abysmal.  Odds are that there are hams
working for the power company's communications department if they
do their own maintenance work.  You might call your Public Service
Commission and ask if they have any observations.

Drive around the prospective neighborhood with your can radio tuned
to the very top end of the BC band and see what you hear.

I'm a retired power company communications technician and one of
my jobs was to travel the state (Montana) as the line noise technician,
so I feel like I'm qualified to comment.

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP
406-560-1555



On Tue, Mar 15, 2016 at 1:17 PM, Chris Hallinan  wrote:

> Greetings all.
>
> We are considering moving to a location that is more friendly to ham radio
> and especially the performance of my K3.  Here in our crowded neighborhood,
> I have regular S7 noise levels on all the lower HF bands.  One home we
> found (and like) sits fairly close to high tension wires (ie like one lot
> away) however its in a much more rural area and likely to be more quite
> w.r.t. the usual man-made RF hash.
>
> Does anyone have any experience with living very close to high tension
> wires (not tool close, plenty of room for wire antennas without any
> danger.)  Assuming nothing is "broken" is it likely to produce RF noise in
> the receiver?  Is this something I should be concerned about?
>
> Thanks, and replies off list are appreciated to avoid the wrath of the list
> moderator 
>
> Regards,
>
> Chris
> K1AY
>
> --
> Life is like Linux - it never stands still.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

[Scott Ellington]

I've always been a fan of end-fed half wave wires for portable 
operation, as they don't require a ground system, nor do they require a 
balun or feedline.  The inverted L configuration works well, as the high 
current point is a quarter wave from the fed end.  Make that as high as 
you can.  The horizontal part of the wire radiates much like a dipole.  
It will also work, perhaps not quite as effectively, simply sloping up 
from the feedpoint.  Note that this is antenna NOT the same as the usual 
quarter wave inverted L, which has maximum current at the feedpoint, and 
works more like a vertical.


The downside is that the feedpoint impedance is very high, perhaps 2,000 
Ohms, which may be beyond the range of the KX1 tuner.  It is, however, 
very easy to build an L network to match it.  (I can provide L and C 
values.)   I'd also attach a couple short wires to the radio ground to 
act as a counterpoise, though it may not make much difference.  A couple 
6 foot wires should work for 80 and above.


This kind of antenna will work on any band for which it is a multiple of 
a half wavelength, though the radiation pattern will be like a long wire 
at higher frequencies.  On 10 and 15 meters, if you can get a half 
wavelength wire nearly vertical, it will act like a half wave vertical, 
which may be better for low radiation angles.  I used one of those a few 
years ago in the 10 Meter contest from KP2 and, in spite of a terrible 
location, a bunch of people heard me.


73,

Scott  K9MA


On Mar 15, 2016, at 12:59 PM, Bruce Nourish  wrote:

Hi folks,

For 40m, 30m, and 20m, the KX1 docs recommend a ~24' length of
sorta-vertical #24 wire with shorter counterpoises as a good field antenna.
I've set that up for my KX1 and KX3, and (unsurprisingly) it works well on
both.

For 80m, the KX1 docs recommend a resonant antenna, and I'm considering my
options. Most of what's written out there about low band antennas seems to
be about durable (and heavy) mobile or home installations. Does anyone have
any experience they'd like to share with backpackable lower band antennas?

Options and questions I'm considering include:

* Build a coil big enough to load up my 24' vertical on 80m, with a tap for
60m. Will that be a long enough radiator?

* Figure out the kite-vertical thing, fly a wire close enough to l/4 that
the KX1 can tune it. How bulky would that be?

* Will #24 wire be a decent radiator for the lower bands, or should I eat
the (not-inconsiderable) weight of a bigger gauge?

* Does anyone have any tips on constructing backpackable (minimum weight)
coils? What's the smallest wire and lightest insulator?

* I'm planning a vertical, as this would seem to require strictly less wire
and coils than any dipole or inverted vee, but am I missing some other
offsetting advantage?

Cheers,
Bruce
__



--
Scott Ellington  K9MA
Madison, Wisconsin, USA

k...@sdellington.us

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[Elecraft] KIO3B

[Mike Harris]

G'day all,

Time to put this saga to bed.

Further investigation revealed that my Toshiba Netbook with a slightly 
earlier version of Logger32 (3.50.231) ran software CW (DTR keying) over 
the KIO3B USB port without issue. The main PC was running version 
5.50.252. I transplanted the Tosh version on the main PC and indeed that 
too ran perfectly OK. So what had changed between versions?


Eventually it was suggested that I should check in the CW machine config 
to see if "disable radio polling when keying" was checked. It wasn't so 
I did and that resolved the problem.


Curiously in the Tosh version 3.50.231 it wasn't checked but that ran OK 
on both the Tosh and the Dell so there is still something in play, 
however, the ripples in space time have been smoothed and I am back with 
a fully functional one cable solution for CAT/PTT/CW/Audio.


Many thanks to all who took an interest in this problem and all those 
who were fearful can rest easy. That is not to say your time won't come.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

[Nr4c]

Check:

Antenna selected

VOX?

TEST mode. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 15, 2016, at 2:48 PM, chris grier  wrote:
> 
> HI I switched on my K3s today and there is no RF coming out of it when I 
> press my Key
> I can hear that the pre driver is working by using another RX, Has this 
> happened to anyone
> on the list, looks like the PA has stopped working.be fore I contact Elecraft
> thanks  Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

[Jerry Moore]

Mode? Is the TX light flashing? Which antenna is selected? Is SWR indicated?
Does the RED led light when you key down?

Try Cw MODE, ANT1, if you have the ATU installed bypass it for testing.. 
jer

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of chris
grier
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 2:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

HI I switched on my K3s today and there is no RF coming out of it when I
press my Key I can hear that the pre driver is working by using another RX,
Has this happened to anyone on the list, looks like the PA has stopped
working.be fore I contact Elecraft thanks  Chris
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delivered to je...@carolinaheli.com

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Fred Jensen]

Others might be interested ...

We moved here to Sparks NV last Aug.  Prior, we lived on 5 rural ac 
outside of Auburn CA for 38 years.  Distribution lines were 12 KV, we 
had our own pole pig.  There was a 69 KV tie line on wood poles between 
two hydro plants that cut across the south corner.  There was 
two-circuit 112 KV line on metal towers about 1/4 mi to the east that 
had a tap across the south end of the property again about 1/4 mi. 
Never got any noise attributable to any of them.


Now, the CalTrans sodium vapor street lamp at the Interstate off-ramp a 
mile away was a whole different story.  It began to fail about 4 years 
ago, and I never could get them to replace the lamp and ballast.  Over 
the years, the ambient noise rose slowly, almost all from the ubiquitous 
SMPS, most probably ours and our nearest neighbor.


Growing up [a long time ago], a two circuit 230 KV line from Hoover Dam 
to Los Angeles ran a block away.  Never any noise from them.  We drove 
through the little town a couple of years ago, it is now a 500 KV line 
and no noise on my mobile driving on the road right beside it.  My 
experience is that the HV lines [60 KV and up] get good maintenance and 
are almost universally quiet.  Distribution lines not so much.


Count the "fins" on the insulators to estimate the voltage.  69-70 KV 
are often on large umbrella type or short hanging ones.  The 112 KV were 
hanging from ones with about 6 sections.  230 KV usually have 12-14 
sections.  500 KV [and DC interties] have too many to count.


On 3/15/2016 12:17 PM, Chris Hallinan wrote:


We are considering moving to a location that is more friendly to ham radio
and especially the performance of my K3.  Here in our crowded neighborhood,
I have regular S7 noise levels on all the lower HF bands.  One home we
found (and like) sits fairly close to high tension wires (ie like one lot
away) however its in a much more rural area and likely to be more quite
w.r.t. the usual man-made RF hash.

Does anyone have any experience with living very close to high tension
wires (not tool close, plenty of room for wire antennas without any
danger.)  Assuming nothing is "broken" is it likely to produce RF noise in
the receiver?  Is this something I should be concerned about?


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Re: [Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

[Stephen Shearer]

I have used a G5RV (+/- 51') with ladder line using teflon 24ga silver 
plated wire.
also see http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/randomWire/ ...  I am working on a 9:1 
and looking at the web site, a 70' wire should work fine for 80m...


73 steve WB3LGC


On 15-Mar-16 12:59 PM, Bruce Nourish wrote:

Hi folks,

For 40m, 30m, and 20m, the KX1 docs recommend a ~24' length of
sorta-vertical #24 wire with shorter counterpoises as a good field antenna.
I've set that up for my KX1 and KX3, and (unsurprisingly) it works well on
both.

For 80m, the KX1 docs recommend a resonant antenna, and I'm considering my
options. Most of what's written out there about low band antennas seems to
be about durable (and heavy) mobile or home installations. Does anyone have
any experience they'd like to share with backpackable lower band antennas?

Options and questions I'm considering include:

* Build a coil big enough to load up my 24' vertical on 80m, with a tap for
60m. Will that be a long enough radiator?

* Figure out the kite-vertical thing, fly a wire close enough to l/4 that
the KX1 can tune it. How bulky would that be?

* Will #24 wire be a decent radiator for the lower bands, or should I eat
the (not-inconsiderable) weight of a bigger gauge?

* Does anyone have any tips on constructing backpackable (minimum weight)
coils? What's the smallest wire and lightest insulator?

* I'm planning a vertical, as this would seem to require strictly less wire
and coils than any dipole or inverted vee, but am I missing some other
offsetting advantage?

Cheers,
Bruce
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,3/15/2016 1:16 PM, Scott Ellington wrote:
I've always been a fan of end-fed half wave wires for portable 
operation, as they don't require a ground system, nor do they require 
a balun or feedline. 


I agree. Here's an easy way that I developed to feed one. It's an 
adaptation of one that N6LF showed on his website.


http://k9yc.com/VerticalDipole.pdf

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,3/15/2016 12:56 PM, Rose wrote:

It sounds like you're speaking of a distribution line.  Do you have
any idea that the voltage is?  Is there more than one pole at each
cross arm?  It could be almost anything up to 240 KV ... or more.
In my semi-rural area the voltage for distribution is 14.4 KV, which
is pretty usual these days.


I have a high voltage distribution line running along my property line 
that has not been a problem in the 10 years I've lived here, but there's 
been other power line noise around that's radiated from other poles.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

[chris grier]

the tx light lights when the key is pressed and I can hear a weak sig in 
another RX so the PA pre driver is working

I dont have the auto atu so only got one ant socket

On 15/03/2016 20:53, Jerry Moore wrote:

Mode? Is the TX light flashing? Which antenna is selected? Is SWR indicated?
Does the RED led light when you key down?

Try Cw MODE, ANT1, if you have the ATU installed bypass it for testing..
jer

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of chris
grier
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 2:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

HI I switched on my K3s today and there is no RF coming out of it when I
press my Key I can hear that the pre driver is working by using another RX,
Has this happened to anyone on the list, looks like the PA has stopped
working.be fore I contact Elecraft thanks  Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The antenna efficiency drops very quickly when the radiator is made shorter
than 1/4 wavelength or 66' on 80 meters. When end fed the efficiency of a
short radiator is even lower depending upon the "ground" return system. The
RF power is divided between the radiator impedance and the "ground"
impedance, with the most power going to the higher impedance. With a short
radiator such as a 24 foot wire, the radiator may show something in the
order of 10 ohms while a typical "ground" will be in the range of 300 ohms
or more, so less than 5% of the RF power actually goes to the radiator.
Short (<1/4 wave) "counterpoises" may actually show impedances up to 600
ohms or more, halving again the RF power going to the antenna. 

Note that many Hams have used such systems - a short whip on their back
dragging a single wire on the ground behind hem for pedestrian mobile - with
considerable success. That just demonstrates how little radiated power is
required under some conditions to make good contacts. So what you
contemplate will certainly work to some extent. 

I have found that the best way to load an electrically short radiator is to
do so at the center. You can think of it as a short radiator and an equal
length counterpoise both up in the clear. Use parallel spaced feeders to
avoid the inherent losses in low-impedance coaxial line. Your tuner will
need to be able to efficiently match quite low impedances in many
situations. The Elecraft tuners use L-networks which are quite efficient
under those conditions, as long as they can find a matching combination of L
and C.

Whether it's a stack of full size yagi's on a 90-foot tower or a short wire
thrown into a tree, the compromises are always the same. It's a matter of
doing what you can within the constraints of space, cost and time. The
suggestions offered by Wayne in the Owner's Manuals are what he has found
will work with the ATU with a minimum of effort. Because of space
constraints inside the KX1 its ATU matching ranges are more limited than the
KX3 or other Elecraft rigs. 
 
73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Stephen Shearer
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 2:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Portable 60-80m wire antennas

I have used a G5RV (+/- 51') with ladder line using teflon 24ga silver
plated wire.
also see http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/randomWire/ ...  I am working on a 9:1 and
looking at the web site, a 70' wire should work fine for 80m...

73 steve WB3LGC


On 15-Mar-16 12:59 PM, Bruce Nourish wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> For 40m, 30m, and 20m, the KX1 docs recommend a ~24' length of 
> sorta-vertical #24 wire with shorter counterpoises as a good field
antenna.
> I've set that up for my KX1 and KX3, and (unsurprisingly) it works 
> well on both.
>
> For 80m, the KX1 docs recommend a resonant antenna, and I'm 
> considering my options. Most of what's written out there about low 
> band antennas seems to be about durable (and heavy) mobile or home 
> installations. Does anyone have any experience they'd like to share with
backpackable lower band antennas?
>
> Options and questions I'm considering include:
>
> * Build a coil big enough to load up my 24' vertical on 80m, with a 
> tap for 60m. Will that be a long enough radiator?
>
> * Figure out the kite-vertical thing, fly a wire close enough to l/4 
> that the KX1 can tune it. How bulky would that be?
>
> * Will #24 wire be a decent radiator for the lower bands, or should I 
> eat the (not-inconsiderable) weight of a bigger gauge?
>
> * Does anyone have any tips on constructing backpackable (minimum 
> weight) coils? What's the smallest wire and lightest insulator?
>
> * I'm planning a vertical, as this would seem to require strictly less 
> wire and coils than any dipole or inverted vee, but am I missing some 
> other offsetting advantage?
>
> Cheers,
> Bruce


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Re: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

[john]

Are you in test (mode button)?

John KK9A



chris grier 
Tue Mar 15 14:48:45 EDT 2016

HI I switched on my K3s today and there is no RF coming out of it when I 
press my Key
I can hear that the pre driver is working by using another RX, Has this 
happened to anyone
on the list, looks like the PA has stopped working.be fore I contact 
Elecraft
thanks  Chris

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Alan]

The 6 meter moonbouncer who lives up the hill from me told me he has no 
problem from the high-tension line that runs right by his place but has 
experienced noise from the lower-voltage lines farther down the hill.


I suspect that HT lines are probably less likely to have arcing than 
lower-voltage lines, simply because it would be a much bigger problem 
for the power company if they did.


Alan N1AL


On 03/15/2016 02:27 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Tue,3/15/2016 12:56 PM, Rose wrote:

It sounds like you're speaking of a distribution line.  Do you have
any idea that the voltage is?  Is there more than one pole at each
cross arm?  It could be almost anything up to 240 KV ... or more.
In my semi-rural area the voltage for distribution is 14.4 KV, which
is pretty usual these days.


I have a high voltage distribution line running along my property line
that has not been a problem in the 10 years I've lived here, but there's
been other power line noise around that's radiated from other poles.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

[Jerry Moore]

Press and release the pwr/mon button until pwr is lit, then rotate the dial
to the right.. read the power setting on the sub rx area.

-Original Message-
From: chris grier [mailto:chris@blueyonder.co.uk] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 5:48 PM
To: Jerry Moore; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s no TX

the tx light lights when the key is pressed and I can hear a weak sig in
another RX so the PA pre driver is working I dont have the auto atu so only
got one ant socket

On 15/03/2016 20:53, Jerry Moore wrote:
> Mode? Is the TX light flashing? Which antenna is selected? Is SWR
indicated?
> Does the RED led light when you key down?
>
> Try Cw MODE, ANT1, if you have the ATU installed bypass it for testing..
> jer
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
> chris grier
> Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2016 2:49 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3s no TX
>
> HI I switched on my K3s today and there is no RF coming out of it when 
> I press my Key I can hear that the pre driver is working by using 
> another RX, Has this happened to anyone on the list, looks like the PA 
> has stopped working.be fore I contact Elecraft thanks  Chris 
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> je...@carolinaheli.com
>


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Lewis Phelps]

Drawing from a decade of experience working as head of the PR department for a 
major electric utility (a long time ago), I’d like to suggest that arcing per 
se should not be a problem at any time with any power line if it is functioning 
properly. The individual transmission wires are spaced far enough apart that 
arcing shouldn’t be possible. Many utilities regularly wash down the insulators 
of high voltage transmission lines using specialized equipment that cleans 
condensed salt water fog off the insulators with deionized water (necessary to 
keep from zapping the guy running the spray nozzle). This is to prevent arcing 
between phases, which can otherwise occur in high humidity situations.  If 
there’s noise coming from lower-voltage distribution lines down “down the hill” 
I would name the prime suspect as cable TV equipment that’s hung on the same 
utility poles as the power line. If the RF interference is caused by power line 
arcing, it’s going to get detected and fixed pretty quickly by the utility. If 
it’s there all the time, it very likely isn’t the power company at fault. (This 
discussion doesn’t include any consideration of Power Line Communication 
technologies, which are an identifiably different kind of interference.)

See:  
http://tdworld.com/overhead-distribution/insulator-washing-helps-maintain-reliability


Lew N6LEW



> On Mar 15, 2016, at 3:17 PM, Alan  wrote:
> 
> The 6 meter moonbouncer who lives up the hill from me told me he has no 
> problem from the high-tension line that runs right by his place but has 
> experienced noise from the lower-voltage lines farther down the hill.
> 
> I suspect that HT lines are probably less likely to have arcing than 
> lower-voltage lines, simply because it would be a much bigger problem for the 
> power company if they did.
> 
> Alan N1AL
> 
> 
> On 03/15/2016 02:27 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On Tue,3/15/2016 12:56 PM, Rose wrote:
>>> It sounds like you're speaking of a distribution line.  Do you have
>>> any idea that the voltage is?  Is there more than one pole at each
>>> cross arm?  It could be almost anything up to 240 KV ... or more.
>>> In my semi-rural area the voltage for distribution is 14.4 KV, which
>>> is pretty usual these days.
>> 
>> I have a high voltage distribution line running along my property line
>> that has not been a problem in the 10 years I've lived here, but there's
>> been other power line noise around that's radiated from other poles.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
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> Message delivered to l...@n6lew.us 
Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800 
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.





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[Elecraft] NAQCC March Sprint this Wednesday Evening

[Larry W2LJ]

The March sprint is this coming Wednesday evening local time (March 16th,
EDT - 8:30-10:30PM, CDT - 7:30-9:30PM, MDT - 6:30-8:30PM, PDT - 5:30-7:30PM),
which translates as Thursday, March 17th (St. Patrick's Day!), 0030 to 0230Z in 
all cases.

For all the "official" information, please go to:

http://www.naqcc.info/sprint201603.html

There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and other important
information.

Certificates: SWA (simple wire antennas) certificates by call area, VE and DX
for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place finishers (New!). A Certificate for top score in the
GAIN antenna category.

Prizes: Too many to list!! - check out the prizes page on our website.

This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, straight
key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); but you
must use QRP power levels to compete for awards.

If you've been hesitant to join in our sprints because you hear other sprints
running at breakneck speeds, have no fear. Our sprints are geared to the
newcomer to CW and/or contesting. Virtually everyone including the many veteran
contesters who regularly enter our sprints will slow down to YOUR speed to help
you make your contacts.

If you are not already a member of NAQCC... membership is FREE! Now is your
chance to join the largest QRP CW Club in the world!! We currently have 7100+
members in: All 50 States - 9 VE Provinces - 100 Countries. Sign up on the
NAQCC website today (http://naqcc.info/) and receive a handsome certificate,
with your membership number on it, which is good for life.

Come join us and have a real good time!


72/73 de Larry W2LJ
NAQCC #35

for NAQCC
http://naqcc.info/
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[Elecraft] OT: Encounters of the Moose kind

[Edward R Cole]

"Time out" for interesting event that happened a few minutes, 
ago.  My wife commented that something "HIT" my tower, as she heard a 
"bang" and noted the guy line that secures to post on the front side 
of the house was moving very "agitated".


So in my slippers I went out on the back deck for a quick 
look.  Tower and antennas all looked fine.  Walked to the end of the 
house where the tower is mounted and secured with wall bracket at ten 
feet.  All fine --- oh there is a guy line draped down where it 
should not.  Further inspection showed the guy to the back side of 
the house had broken.  I walked to the guy post and found that the 
turnbuckle end that secured the guy wire had bent full open and tip 
broken off.  Guy post laid over almost horizontal in direction right 
angle to normal guy force.


We didn't see it but only thing big enough to exert enough force to 
break the turnbuckle would probably be a Moose.  The end hook was 
totally straightened out so the guy loop just slipped off.  Hook on 
other end of turnbuckle looks fine; 3/16 inch galv guy wire survived.


We have been experiencing daily winds above 20mph so that might have 
fatigued the end-bolt hook.  Last two days totally calm, 
though???  --- Then "BANG!"


OK, back to Elecraft "stuff" ;-)

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Encounters of the Moose kind

[Ken G Kopp]

Then there was the time a few years ago when the antlers of well-known
moose at a local lake became entangled in a 10' C-band satellite TV dish in
the yard of a cabin .

73

Ken Kopp - K0PP
On Mar 15, 2016 6:00 PM, "Edward R Cole"  wrote:

> "Time out" for interesting event that happened a few minutes, ago.  My
> wife commented that something "HIT" my tower, as she heard a "bang" and
> noted the guy line that secures to post on the front side of the house was
> moving very "agitated".
>
> So in my slippers I went out on the back deck for a quick look.  Tower and
> antennas all looked fine.  Walked to the end of the house where the tower
> is mounted and secured with wall bracket at ten feet.  All fine --- oh
> there is a guy line draped down where it should not.  Further inspection
> showed the guy to the back side of the house had broken.  I walked to the
> guy post and found that the turnbuckle end that secured the guy wire had
> bent full open and tip broken off.  Guy post laid over almost horizontal in
> direction right angle to normal guy force.
>
> We didn't see it but only thing big enough to exert enough force to break
> the turnbuckle would probably be a Moose.  The end hook was totally
> straightened out so the guy loop just slipped off.  Hook on other end of
> turnbuckle looks fine; 3/16 inch galv guy wire survived.
>
> We have been experiencing daily winds above 20mph so that might have
> fatigued the end-bolt hook.  Last two days totally calm, though???  ---
> Then "BANG!"
>
> OK, back to Elecraft "stuff" ;-)
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
> http://www.kl7uw.com
> "Kits made by KL7UW"
> Dubus Mag business:
> dubus...@gmail.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Encounters of the Moose kind

[Matthew Cook]

Oh no... there's a Moose loose near the Hoose !

Sorry couldn't resist (*grin*).

73

Matthew
VK5ZM

On 16 March 2016 at 10:29, Edward R Cole  wrote:

> "Time out" for interesting event that happened a few minutes, ago.  My
> wife commented that something "HIT" my tower, as she heard a "bang" and
> noted the guy line that secures to post on the front side of the house was
> moving very "agitated".
>
> So in my slippers I went out on the back deck for a quick look.  Tower and
> antennas all looked fine.  Walked to the end of the house where the tower
> is mounted and secured with wall bracket at ten feet.  All fine --- oh
> there is a guy line draped down where it should not.  Further inspection
> showed the guy to the back side of the house had broken.  I walked to the
> guy post and found that the turnbuckle end that secured the guy wire had
> bent full open and tip broken off.  Guy post laid over almost horizontal in
> direction right angle to normal guy force.
>
> We didn't see it but only thing big enough to exert enough force to break
> the turnbuckle would probably be a Moose.  The end hook was totally
> straightened out so the guy loop just slipped off.  Hook on other end of
> turnbuckle looks fine; 3/16 inch galv guy wire survived.
>
> We have been experiencing daily winds above 20mph so that might have
> fatigued the end-bolt hook.  Last two days totally calm, though???  ---
> Then "BANG!"
>
> OK, back to Elecraft "stuff" ;-)
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
> http://www.kl7uw.com
> "Kits made by KL7UW"
> Dubus Mag business:
> dubus...@gmail.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Jim Brown]

Lew,

That's in direct conflict with everything I've seen from RFI engineers. 
Over the years, I've seen plenty of reports of hardware in the power 
system failing in a mode that causes it to arc. See 
http://www.arrl.org/power-line-noise for a great discussion of all sorts 
of RF noise, including power line noise. At least 10 years ago, I bought 
and read "AC Power Interference Handbook" by Marv Loftness, a field 
engineer who specialized in that work. He said that virtually all power 
line noise is caused by SOMETHING arcing.


73, Jim K9YC

On Tue,3/15/2016 3:35 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:

Drawing from a decade of experience working as head of the PR department for a 
major electric utility (a long time ago), I’d like to suggest that arcing per 
se should not be a problem at any time with any power line if it is functioning 
properly. The individual transmission wires are spaced far enough apart that 
arcing shouldn’t be possible.


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Ken G Kopp]

The Loftness book is the "go to" text on power line noise.

EVERY metal-to-metal junction is suspect.  Lazy linemen hammer lag bolts
straight in when installing cross arm braces.  Metal steeples holding
ground wire running down a pole arc and set poles on fire.  The list is
endless.

73

K0PP
Retired power company noise chaser
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: K3 and High Tension Wires

[Lewis Phelps]

Please reread the first sentence of my prior post, in which I qualified what I 
said with the phrase “…if it’s functioning properly.” What I said is NOT in 
conflict with your points. Power line noise is, de facto, the result of some 
sort of equipment failure. We agree on that. If something is arcing in a power 
distribution system, it’s because something is broken.

I suggest that we take go offline with any further discussion on the issue, 
since it is OT.

Lew

> On Mar 15, 2016, at 8:58 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> Lew,
> 
> That's in direct conflict with everything I've seen from RFI engineers. Over 
> the years, I've seen plenty of reports of hardware in the power system 
> failing in a mode that causes it to arc. See 
> http://www.arrl.org/power-line-noise for a great discussion of all sorts of 
> RF noise, including power line noise. At least 10 years ago, I bought and 
> read "AC Power Interference Handbook" by Marv Loftness, a field engineer who 
> specialized in that work. He said that virtually all power line noise is 
> caused by SOMETHING arcing.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> On Tue,3/15/2016 3:35 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:
>> Drawing from a decade of experience working as head of the PR department for 
>> a major electric utility (a long time ago), I’d like to suggest that arcing 
>> per se should not be a problem at any time with any power line if it is 
>> functioning properly. The individual transmission wires are spaced far 
>> enough apart that arcing shouldn’t be possible.
> 
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Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800 
l...@n6lew.us
www.n6lew.us

Generalized Law of Entropy: Sooner or later, everything that has been put 
together will fall apart.





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