Re: [Elecraft] KX3 to computer connection.

[Jim Brown]

Several thoughts. There's a detailed tutorial on setting audio levels 
for digital modes at


http://k9yc.com/USB_Interfaces.pdf

It also includes advice about making suitable attenuators.

I've found adapters on amazon to split a TRRS jack into mic in and line 
out connectors. I seem to recall the brand was Star. They're pretty 
light weight, and I haven't used them (wanted them for the ready box), 
so I have no idea how well they will hold up. But they're cheap enough 
to buy two. :)


Based on my testing, that good, low cost Numark listed is a very good 
unit for our purposes, and can significantly improve decoding as 
compared to internal sound cards.


BTW -- the noise you describe is often caused by failure to bond the 
computer to the radio.


73, Jim K9YC

On Wed,4/5/2017 10:02 AM, Dave B via Elecraft wrote:

Run the PC's output at a relatively high level, but not into distortion
(test with headphones, so as to swamp any spurious PC related noises.)



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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

[Jim Brown]

On Wed,4/5/2017 11:19 AM, Randy Cook wrote:

I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the antenna base. 
Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun input lug, then goes via 
coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long coax run to my shack.


HOW long is important here. Lightning is not a DC event, it is an RF 
event, and any wire, whether coax or a #4 looks to lightning like a big 
inductor.  Rule of thumb is that if the distance from the  tower to the 
shack approaches 100 ft (some authorities say more than 60 ft), there's 
no need to bond the tower base to the house. You don't have a tower, but 
the physics is the same. At lightning frequencies, the impedance to 
earth at the antenna is probably a lot less than the inductive reactance 
of a bonding conductor back to the shack, and the choke adds more 
inductance.


I would drive a couple of 8 ft rods at the antenna base spaced at least 
a rod length apart, bond them together, and to the radials.
the sole function of the rods is lightning protection. So is bonding. 
The radials are not a substitute for rods, but they will reduce the 
impedance to earth by virtue of their capacitance to earth, which will 
be in parallel with the rods.  The choke should be at the tuner on the 
coax going to the shack. There should also be a lightning arrestor there.



Choke at the rig end of the coax run.


It's OK to have a choke at the rig end, but it's FAR more important to 
have one at the antenna.



Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun.


It's not clear to me whether your unun is step up or step down, and you 
didn't say what band(s) you want this antenna to cover,  but I would put 
the radials on the antenna side of that unun.



I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to connect ground 
lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the radial collection point.


The instructions assume the tuner is in the shack.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Display "flashing

[Bill via Elecraft]

Thanks
Bill - W0BBI


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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I has a Ten Tec amp that was like that  with RGB LEDs





  From: Bill Frantz 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 7:51 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?
   
If you can replace the backlight LEDs with RGB LEDs, you might 
be able to have any color you wanted depending on the current 
limiting resistors. :-)

When I turn the backlight off on my K3, the color shifts from 
amber to something gray-green.

73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz        | Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506      | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is 
*not* the
www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly

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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Bill Frantz]

If you can replace the backlight LEDs with RGB LEDs, you might 
be able to have any color you wanted depending on the current 
limiting resistors. :-)


When I turn the backlight off on my K3, the color shifts from 
amber to something gray-green.


73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
408-356-8506   | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is 
*not* the

www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: anti-static mat advice

[Richard Fjeld]

That is unusual.  I am surprised it is made of rubber unless it is for 
the floor, in which case rubber may be better.
I bought a mat about a year ago that seems to be made of a vinyl-like 
material.

Dick, n0ce


On 4/5/2017 11:56 AM, David Cutter wrote:
> Just received a new black mat and it has an extremely strong rubber smell; I 
> wouldn't mind some but this is obnoxious and I can't use it in the house, so 
> I'm about to reject it.  I get the feeling that it is not completely cured.  
> I bought it from a good company but just thought I would ask the folks on the 
> list if they've ever had this experience.  My previous mat (grey, can't 
> remember who borrowed it) didn't smell at all.
>
> 73
>
> David
> G3UNA
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Keith Onishi]

I sometimes use WSJTX on Mac. WSJTX is set to use USBcodec and Mac internal 
audio to mute.
Having checked current my system setting, its default audio output has been set 
to USBcodec although I have not set so. The audio setting might have been 
changed by system itself. Therefore, I would suggest to check your system 
setting before you play sound on Mac.

73 de JH3SIF, Keith
 
> 2017/04/06 2:58、Dave Fugleberg  のメール：
> 
> John,
> Ok, Windows was a bad assumption on my part.
> You established that the unwanted transmit was due to VOX. That could be
> due to one of two issues:
> A) the radio mic was picking up the sound coming from the computer
> speakers, OR
> B) the Mac is configured to send normal computer sounds to the K3s codec
> instead of the Mac sound card
> 
> If it's A, then turning off VOX is the right dilation and you're all set.
> If it's B, I'd suggest that you configure the Mac to send the default audio
> to its own sound card, and configure WSJT, etc, to use the K3s codec.
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:15 PM Carl Clawson  wrote:
> 
>> If you're running Windows 10, it might be the source of your problem. It
>> has a habit of changing the default audio device when it thinks it's trying
>> to "help" you.
>> 
>> My windows 10 PC has an internal sound adapter and I've always used an
>> external USB device for radio play. As soon as I unplug the speakers from
>> the internal card, Windows 10 decides that it's smarter than I am and
>> redirects the default audio device to my USB adapter. So I leave the
>> speakers plugged in to the PC, or even just an empty phone plug.
>> 
>> If there's a way to make Win10 stop doing this, I haven't found it yet and
>> would love to know.
>> 
>> 73, Carl WS7L
>> 
>> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 9:04 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
>> 
>>> ​If your default audio device in Sound --> Playback is the sound card
>>> associated with your radio then Windows sounds will be sent to your
>> radio.
>>> 
>>> Your web browser should be respecting the default audio device.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Actually the Stock Backlight LEDs are Green
If you shine a light at the K3 or the KPA500 you will se they also gave a 
greenish cast to them when off



  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Tom McCulloch ; Harry Yingst ; 
"elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 5:15 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?
   
Tom,

The LCD display on the K2 has "been what it was" from the beginning 
(even for Field Test units).
The backlighting is white (LEDs, not incandescent), but the color of the 
actual display is green when backlighted.  Actually, it is green when 
frontlighted (without the backlight) as well, but more gray than green.

There is no amber LCD for the K2, never has been.  I think some posters 
confused K2 with the KX2 (which does have an amber LCD - same LCD as the 
K3/K3S and the KX3).

The LCD display is a custom display, so duplicating that custom display 
for someone who wants an amber display would be quite an expensive 
proposition.  In other words, an amber LCD for the K2 is not practical.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2017 4:51 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
> When it's off it's sort of grayish.  When I power the K2 up there are 
> (what looks to be) two small light bulbs on, or behind, the left and 
> right sides of the display,  When lit they give an amber-ish (if that's 
> a word) color.  It's actually the color from the two "clear" 
> incandescent bulbs.
> 
> Does anyone with a low serial number have this and can better explain it?


   
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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Interesting

I build a K2 Years ago SN in the 3500 range and just built a new one (just 
finished it).

Both with Green Backlights.  I was thinking that it would be nice to

change this one over to an Amber backlight so it matches my K3 better.

I may just need to find some closely matching LEDs or just leave it as is.

I figured it was worth a shot.






From: Tom McCulloch 
To: Harry Yingst ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?



When it's off it's sort of grayish.  When I power the K2 up there are (what 
looks to be) two small light bulbs on, or behind, the left and right sides of 
the display,  When lit they give an amber-ish (if that's a word) color.  It's 
actually the color from the two "clear" incandescent bulbs.

Does anyone with a low serial number have this and can better explain it?

Tom, wb2qdg
K2 s/n 1103


On 4/4/2017 3:18 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

[Fred Jensen]

I believe Don is essentially correct regarding bonding all earth 
terminals directly to the service entrance ground connection.  This, 
however, can be difficult and very costly in the case of an earth 
terminal far from the service entrance.  I believe that the NEC has 
provisions for such cases [e.g. a barn or other outbuilding located some 
distance from the service entrance].


200 ft sticks in my mind, but don't bet your paycheck on that. 
Unfortunately, my copy of the NEC is located in an unknown box out of 
many in the garage after our move.  It is at least a decade old.  It 
will likely remain there.


Possibly someone who actually knows can enlighten the rest of us. It 
*IS* a real issue.


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 4/5/2017 2:05 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Randy,

The RF does not need a ground other than the obvious connection to 
your radial connection point.


I would dispense with the "unun" and connect the antenna wire and 
radial connection point directly to your tuner.  A few feet of wire 
from your tuner to those points will not make a big difference since 
your antenna is not resonant.


The only reason I can think of to connect your tuner to "station 
ground" is for lightning protection.  While that is a consideration 
not to be taken lightly, be aware that *all* ground rods must be 
connected by heavy wire to the utility entrance ground rod.  That 
heavy wire is #6 bare copper but #4 is preferred.  That connection is 
for AC mains safety, not for lightning protection or anything having 
to do with RF.


The concept for lightning protection is to spread as much of the 
charge as possible over as large an area of the earth as is possible.  
Your radial system will help do that *if* the wires are large enough 
to withstand the surge without evaporating the copper.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2017 2:19 PM, Randy Cook wrote:
Weather damage repair time. I am rewiring my ~84 foot inverted L 
antenna system, Up a SpiderPole about 31 feet, out about 53 
additional feet. Still tuning length.
I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the 
antenna base. Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun 
input lug, then goes via coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long 
coax run to my shack. Choke at the rig end of the coax run.

Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun.
I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to 
connect ground lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the 
radial collection point. But, isn’t the tuner already connected to 
the ‘system ground’ via the coax shield? Is it necessary to run 
another wire from the tuner ground to the radial connection ground?

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[Elecraft] PR6-10 - no gain on 10

[gt-i]

Hello list,
I bought a used PR6-10 and realized it does not provide any gain on 10m 
but does so on 6m. I already checked the DIGOUT1 configration per band, 
as well as the jumper setting (off) inside the PreAmp.

Anything else I should look for?
tnx es 73 Gernot DF5RF


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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

The LCD display on the K2 has "been what it was" from the beginning 
(even for Field Test units).
The backlighting is white (LEDs, not incandescent), but the color of the 
actual display is green when backlighted.  Actually, it is green when 
frontlighted (without the backlight) as well, but more gray than green.


There is no amber LCD for the K2, never has been.  I think some posters 
confused K2 with the KX2 (which does have an amber LCD - same LCD as the 
K3/K3S and the KX3).


The LCD display is a custom display, so duplicating that custom display 
for someone who wants an amber display would be quite an expensive 
proposition.  In other words, an amber LCD for the K2 is not practical.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2017 4:51 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
When it's off it's sort of grayish.  When I power the K2 up there are 
(what looks to be) two small light bulbs on, or behind, the left and 
right sides of the display,  When lit they give an amber-ish (if that's 
a word) color.  It's actually the color from the two "clear" 
incandescent bulbs.


Does anyone with a low serial number have this and can better explain it?

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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[John Wingard]

K2 S/N 1057 here and my display is a pale yellow-green color when lit.
Definitely not what I would consider to be amber.

73, WB4GLJ

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 4:51 PM, Tom McCulloch  wrote:

> When it's off it's sort of grayish.  When I power the K2 up there are
> (what looks to be) two small light bulbs on, or behind, the left and right
> sides of the display,  When lit they give an amber-ish (if that's a word)
> color.  It's actually the color from the two "clear" incandescent bulbs.
>
> Does anyone with a low serial number have this and can better explain it?
>
> Tom, wb2qdg
> K2 s/n 1103
>
> On 4/4/2017 3:18 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> How did you get the Amber display?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>> *From:* Tom McCulloch 
>> *To:* elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, April 4, 2017 9:46 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?
>>
>> Amber here.s/n 1103
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> wb2qdg
>>
>>
>>
> --
>
> I don't wear a watch because where I am is where I want to be.
> I don't carry a cell phone because who I'm with is who I want to talk
> to...yep I'm retired!
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

[Don Wilhelm]

Randy,

The RF does not need a ground other than the obvious connection to your 
radial connection point.


I would dispense with the "unun" and connect the antenna wire and radial 
connection point directly to your tuner.  A few feet of wire from your 
tuner to those points will not make a big difference since your antenna 
is not resonant.


The only reason I can think of to connect your tuner to "station ground" 
is for lightning protection.  While that is a consideration not to be 
taken lightly, be aware that *all* ground rods must be connected by 
heavy wire to the utility entrance ground rod.  That heavy wire is #6 
bare copper but #4 is preferred.  That connection is for AC mains 
safety, not for lightning protection or anything having to do with RF.


The concept for lightning protection is to spread as much of the charge 
as possible over as large an area of the earth as is possible.  Your 
radial system will help do that *if* the wires are large enough to 
withstand the surge without evaporating the copper.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2017 2:19 PM, Randy Cook wrote:

Weather damage repair time. I am rewiring my ~84 foot inverted L antenna 
system, Up a SpiderPole about 31 feet, out about 53 additional feet. Still 
tuning length.
I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the antenna base. 
Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun input lug, then goes via 
coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long coax run to my shack. Choke at the 
rig end of the coax run.
Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun.
I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to connect ground 
lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the radial collection point. 
But, isn’t the tuner already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax 
shield? Is it necessary to run another wire from the tuner ground to the radial 
connection ground?

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Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

[Tom McCulloch]

When it's off it's sort of grayish.  When I power the K2 up there are 
(what looks to be) two small light bulbs on, or behind, the left and 
right sides of the display,  When lit they give an amber-ish (if that's 
a word) color.  It's actually the color from the two "clear" 
incandescent bulbs.


Does anyone with a low serial number have this and can better explain it?

Tom, wb2qdg
K2 s/n 1103

On 4/4/2017 3:18 PM, Harry Yingst wrote:



How did you get the Amber display?





*From:* Tom McCulloch 
*To:* elecraft@mailman.qth.net
*Sent:* Tuesday, April 4, 2017 9:46 AM
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Amber display for the K2?

Amber here.s/n 1103

Tom

wb2qdg




--

I don't wear a watch because where I am is where I want to be.
I don't carry a cell phone because who I'm with is who I want to talk to...yep 
I'm retired!

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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier wishes

[Walter Underwood]

That could be handy. The bypass circuit could include a sensor for a lower 
range (0.1 to 200W).

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 1:38 PM, Doug Hensley  wrote:
> 
> It might not be possible but I'd like to see one with an on-board watt meter 
> that can also monitor just the K3 by itself when the amp is turned off.  I'm 
> not opposed to the requirement that it be turned on to make that watt meter 
> work but either way, an on-board watt meter & SWR bridge would simplify watt 
> meter requirements for whole K3 station.
> 
> 
> I enjoy the list.  Cheers,
> 
> 
> Doug W5JV
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier wishes

[Doug Hensley]

It might not be possible but I'd like to see one with an on-board watt meter 
that can also monitor just the K3 by itself when the amp is turned off.  I'm 
not opposed to the requirement that it be turned on to make that watt meter 
work but either way, an on-board watt meter & SWR bridge would simplify watt 
meter requirements for whole K3 station.


I enjoy the list.  Cheers,


Doug W5JV







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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

While I've pulled Fred's stunt at times in the past, be aware that having two 
grounds can be very dangerous. If something opened the circuit to the mains 
ground at the house, you could find mains voltage (120 or 240 Vac) between the 
coax connector from the shack and the tuner at the antenna when you disconnect 
it for any reason. 

The smart move is to run a heavy copper wire alongside the coax from a ground 
point in the house to the ground at the antenna so that both are grounded 
together. 

I agree with Barry about the unun. I'd not use it (and don't on my Inverted L, 
but I am not using an MFJ tuner either). If you have a decent "RF ground" at 
the tuner you probably will not need any further isolation.

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred 
Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 12:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

Assuming I understand your configuration and that when you say "isn’t the tuner 
already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax shield?" 
you mean the 3 ft of coax from the 4:1 transformer to the tuner:

The 3 ft path from the transformer ["unun"] to the tuner is handled by the 
coax.  The "tuner ground" would then become a safety ground ... 
which is a very large, long, and tedious subject involving the NEC, UFER's, 
large conductors, a lot of work, and possibly $$.

If "long coax to the shack" means the tuner is a long way from the shack and 
your service entrance, I'd drive a ground rod at the tuner and connect the lug 
to that.  I'm probably wrong, but that's what I'd do.

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 4/5/2017 11:19 AM, Randy Cook wrote:
> Weather damage repair time. I am rewiring my ~84 foot inverted L antenna 
> system, Up a SpiderPole about 31 feet, out about 53 additional feet. Still 
> tuning length.
> I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the antenna 
> base. Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun input lug, then 
> goes via coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long coax run to my shack. 
> Choke at the rig end of the coax run.
> Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun.
> I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to connect ground 
> lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the radial collection point. 
> But, isn’t the tuner already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax 
> shield? Is it necessary to run another wire from the tuner ground to the 
> radial connection ground?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> 73
> Randy - K6CRC
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

[Fred Jensen]

Assuming I understand your configuration and that when you say "isn’t 
the tuner already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax shield?" 
you mean the 3 ft of coax from the 4:1 transformer to the tuner:


The 3 ft path from the transformer ["unun"] to the tuner is handled by 
the coax.  The "tuner ground" would then become a safety ground ... 
which is a very large, long, and tedious subject involving the NEC, 
UFER's, large conductors, a lot of work, and possibly $$.


If "long coax to the shack" means the tuner is a long way from the shack 
and your service entrance, I'd drive a ground rod at the tuner and 
connect the lug to that.  I'm probably wrong, but that's what I'd do.


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 4/5/2017 11:19 AM, Randy Cook wrote:

Weather damage repair time. I am rewiring my ~84 foot inverted L antenna 
system, Up a SpiderPole about 31 feet, out about 53 additional feet. Still 
tuning length.
I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the antenna base. 
Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun input lug, then goes via 
coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long coax run to my shack. Choke at the 
rig end of the coax run.
Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun.
I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to connect ground 
lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the radial collection point. 
But, isn’t the tuner already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax 
shield? Is it necessary to run another wire from the tuner ground to the radial 
connection ground?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

73
Randy - K6CRC



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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

[Barry]

Randy,
I would definitely ground the remote tuner. I infer that you are 
feeding the  inverted L at the base and working it against ground. In 
this circumstance, the antenna tuner is a part of the system and should 
be grounded to the remainder of your ground system. Think of it this 
way. Your tuner in in series between the inverted L and your ground 
which represents the other half of your antenna system.


I'm not sure I would use an 4:1 unum as you are. I would put an 
isolator between the tuner and the run to your shack. You will be 
feeding the antenna through the tuner which needs to see both the ground 
half of your antenna system and the antenna itself. The unum will 
attempt to isolate parts of the system that should not be isolated. 
However, you do need to keep RF off the transmission line going to the 
shack and an isolator will accomplish this.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Randy Cook" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 4/5/2017 2:19:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

Weather damage repair time. I am rewiring my ~84 foot inverted L 
antenna system, Up a SpiderPole about 31 feet, out about 53 additional 
feet. Still tuning length.
I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the 
antenna base. Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun 
input lug, then goes via coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long coax 
run to my shack. Choke at the rig end of the coax run.

Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun.
I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to connect 
ground lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the radial 
collection point. But, isn’t the tuner already connected to the ‘system 
ground’ via the coax shield? Is it necessary to run another wire from 
the tuner ground to the radial connection ground?


Thanks in advance for any advice.

73
Randy - K6CRC





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[Elecraft] Grounding question on remote tuner

[Randy Cook]

Weather damage repair time. I am rewiring my ~84 foot inverted L antenna 
system, Up a SpiderPole about 31 feet, out about 53 additional feet. Still 
tuning length. 
I have mounted a remote MFJ tuner on a post about 3 feet from the antenna base. 
Antenna wire goes down the pole, connects to 4:1 Unun input lug, then goes via 
coax to tuner. Out of the tuner to a long coax run to my shack. Choke at the 
rig end of the coax run.  
Radials mount on ground connection lug on the Unun. 
I was a bit confused with the tuner wiring. The manual says to connect ground 
lug to the ‘system ground’, I assume that means the radial collection point. 
But, isn’t the tuner already connected to the ‘system ground’ via the coax 
shield? Is it necessary to run another wire from the tuner ground to the radial 
connection ground?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

73
Randy - K6CRC





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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Dave Fugleberg]

John,
Ok, Windows was a bad assumption on my part.
You established that the unwanted transmit was due to VOX. That could be
due to one of two issues:
A) the radio mic was picking up the sound coming from the computer
speakers, OR
B) the Mac is configured to send normal computer sounds to the K3s codec
instead of the Mac sound card

If it's A, then turning off VOX is the right dilation and you're all set.
If it's B, I'd suggest that you configure the Mac to send the default audio
to its own sound card, and configure WSJT, etc, to use the K3s codec.
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:15 PM Carl Clawson  wrote:

> If you're running Windows 10, it might be the source of your problem. It
> has a habit of changing the default audio device when it thinks it's trying
> to "help" you.
>
> My windows 10 PC has an internal sound adapter and I've always used an
> external USB device for radio play. As soon as I unplug the speakers from
> the internal card, Windows 10 decides that it's smarter than I am and
> redirects the default audio device to my USB adapter. So I leave the
> speakers plugged in to the PC, or even just an empty phone plug.
>
> If there's a way to make Win10 stop doing this, I haven't found it yet and
> would love to know.
>
> 73, Carl WS7L
>
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 9:04 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:
>
> > ​If your default audio device in Sound --> Playback is the sound card
> > associated with your radio then Windows sounds will be sent to your
> radio.
> >
> > Your web browser should be respecting the default audio device.
> >
> > 73,
> > Kev K4VD
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Carl Clawson]

If you're running Windows 10, it might be the source of your problem. It
has a habit of changing the default audio device when it thinks it's trying
to "help" you.

My windows 10 PC has an internal sound adapter and I've always used an
external USB device for radio play. As soon as I unplug the speakers from
the internal card, Windows 10 decides that it's smarter than I am and
redirects the default audio device to my USB adapter. So I leave the
speakers plugged in to the PC, or even just an empty phone plug.

If there's a way to make Win10 stop doing this, I haven't found it yet and
would love to know.

73, Carl WS7L

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 9:04 AM, Kevin - K4VD  wrote:

> ​If your default audio device in Sound --> Playback is the sound card
> associated with your radio then Windows sounds will be sent to your radio.
>
> Your web browser should be respecting the default audio device.
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 to computer connection.

[Dave B via Elecraft]

On 05/04/17 17:08, David Deitrick  wrote:
> I have a KX3, the KX3-PCKT Cable set and a computer that does not have 
> separate mic & headphone jacks, but a single combination jack for both mic & 
> phones. Any hints as to how to connect the mic & phone cables from the KX3 to 
> the computer?
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave
> KB8XG
> dhdeitr...@mac.com
Hi.

Take care with the levels...

The I/Q output from the KX3 is a stereo feed at "Line" level.  (But is
still useful as a mono feed at times, especially if you want the speaker
to be active too, else you'll need to make a "Y" cable from the phones
jack, to serve both the PC's input, and an external speaker or phones.)

The 'phones' output from the KX3 is even higher level, and is also a
stereo feed.

The "Mic" input of a PC is very low level.

So, you'll need at least a simple two resistor attenuator between rig
and PC, so as not to overload the PC, and keep the RX noise level down
(as seen by the PC)   I use a rough value of some 20 to 30dB, depending
what parts I have about.

The source impedance of the KX3 is fairly low (Ohms) and the load
impedance of the PC will be fairly high (kOhms) making the needed
calculations easier.


Similarly, the 'headphone' output from the PC will be a fairly high
level, while the Mic input to the KX3 again is a very low level, so
again you'll need a simple resistive attenuator between the two.
And again, the PC output is a LowZ and the input to the KX3 is a
High(ish)Z, again, simple calculations.
Also turn OFF the Mic Bias option in the KX3 menu.

Just make sure the resistor values used swamp the actual source and load
impedances, this is audio frequency signals, so no need to "match" the
source to the cable to the load etc.

Run the PC's output at a relatively high level, but not into distortion
(test with headphones, so as to swamp any spurious PC related noises.)  

Use the rig's mic gain control to get an ALC level of 4 bars, with the
5th flickering when transmitting, and use the RF Power control to set
the TX power level.  (Use "Data A" mode, so the rig turns off any TX EQ
you may have set for your voice.)

If you find you have to have a very low mic gain, and it's a very coarse
adjustment, then you need more attenuation between the PC and Radio.  
Turning down the PC's output level can help, but then any spurious
noises become significant elsewhere in the audio passband, hence it's
best to run the PC at a high(ish) level, and attenuate it all down to
suit the mic input, but in a way that gives you decent and fine control
of the mic gain.

Likewise, you should see a more or less flat frequency response in your
digimode (or whatever) software when just RX noise is present.

Similarly, if you find you have the PC's mic gain set very low, AND the
Radio's output (volume) set low, you need more attenuation between radio
and PC.

A request please.
Check your PC is not set to make bings and burp etc noises by default
from the internal sound card if that is what you use.Most external
(USB type) sound cards are "quieter" (noise wise) than most PC internal
cards, and also allow you to keep whatever OS related noises you want on
the internal system, keeping them away from the radio.

It takes a little juggling of levels etc, but you can get a very good
results this way.

73.

Dave G0WBX.


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[Elecraft] OT: anti-static mat advice

[David Cutter]

Just received a new black mat and it has an extremely strong rubber smell; I 
wouldn't mind some but this is obnoxious and I can't use it in the house, so 
I'm about to reject it.  I get the feeling that it is not completely cured.  I 
bought it from a good company but just thought I would ask the folks on the 
list if they've ever had this experience.  My previous mat (grey, can't 
remember who borrowed it) didn't smell at all. 

73

David
G3UNA 
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Kevin - K4VD]

​If your default audio device in Sound --> Playback is the sound card
associated with your radio then Windows sounds will be sent to your radio.

Your web browser should be respecting the default audio device.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[John Stengrevics]

Using a Mac here Dave.  

The problem goes away if I switch from VOX to PTT on the K3S.

John
WA1EAZ

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 12:02 PM, Dave Fugleberg  wrote:
> 
> Do you hear the video through your computer speakers as well? If so, maybe 
> the K3S has VOX enabled and I'd just picking up the sound via the K3s 
> microphone. 
> If you DON'T hear the video from the computer, then it's likely that your 
> default sound device in Windows has been changed to be the audio codec for 
> the K3S. 
> What you probably want is for the default playback device in Windows to be 
> your computer's sound card, and only configure WSJT and any other ham 
> software to use the K3S audio codec.
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 10:50 AM John Stengrevics  > wrote:
> Audio settings are Codec.  But this not new.  Codec is required to make 
> WSJT-X work and have been set this way for months..
> 
> John
> WA1EAZ
> 
> > On Apr 5, 2017, at 11:18 AM, Robert Nobis  > > wrote:
> >
> > Check your audio settings, under systems preferences.
> >
> >
> > Bob Nobis
> > n7...@nobis.net   > >
> >
> >
> >> On Apr 5, 2017, at 07:51, stengrevics  >>   >> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> New phenomenon.  When I go to a website that can play a video (such as
> >> YouTube), and the video is played, something is transmitted by my K3S.
> >> Note:  This is a new phenomenon.  I have not knowingly changed any setting.
> >>
> >> I would appreciate any suggestions.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> John
> >> WA1EAZ
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> View this message in context: 
> >> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
> >>  
> >> 
> >>  
> >>  >>  
> >> >
> >> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com 
> >> >.
> >> __
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> >>  
> >>  >> >
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> >> >
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> >> >
> >>
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> >> >
> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html 
> >>   >> >
> >> Message delivered to n7...@nobis.net  
> >> >
> >>
> >
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Dave Fugleberg]

Do you hear the video through your computer speakers as well? If so, maybe
the K3S has VOX enabled and I'd just picking up the sound via the K3s
microphone.
If you DON'T hear the video from the computer, then it's likely that your
default sound device in Windows has been changed to be the audio codec for
the K3S.
What you probably want is for the default playback device in Windows to be
your computer's sound card, and only configure WSJT and any other ham
software to use the K3S audio codec.
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 10:50 AM John Stengrevics 
wrote:

> Audio settings are Codec.  But this not new.  Codec is required to make
> WSJT-X work and have been set this way for months..
>
> John
> WA1EAZ
>
> > On Apr 5, 2017, at 11:18 AM, Robert Nobis  wrote:
> >
> > Check your audio settings, under systems preferences.
> >
> >
> > Bob Nobis
> > n7...@nobis.net 
> >
> >
> >> On Apr 5, 2017, at 07:51, stengrevics  > wrote:
> >>
> >> New phenomenon.  When I go to a website that can play a video (such as
> >> YouTube), and the video is played, something is transmitted by my K3S.
> >> Note:  This is a new phenomenon.  I have not knowingly changed any
> setting.
> >>
> >> I would appreciate any suggestions.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> John
> >> WA1EAZ
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
> <
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
> >
> >> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com <
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[John Stengrevics]

Thanks Devin.  Yes, when I switch from VOX to PTT on the K3S, the problem 
disappears.

But, what is puzzling is that this is a new phenomenon.  I’ve had the VOX 
enabled all along.

Perhaps there is some other K3S setting that I have inadvertently enabled?

John
WA1EAZ

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 11:47 AM, Devin Butterfield  
> wrote:
> 
> Maybe VOX is enabled??
> —
> Regards, Devin
> 
>> On Apr 5, 2017, at 8:18 AM, Robert Nobis > > wrote:
>> 
>> Check your audio settings, under systems preferences.
>> 
>> 
>> Bob Nobis 
>> n7...@nobis.net 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Apr 5, 2017, at 07:51, stengrevics >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> New phenomenon.  When I go to a website that can play a video (such as
>>> YouTube), and the video is played, something is transmitted by my K3S. 
>>> Note:  This is a new phenomenon.  I have not knowingly changed any setting.
>>> 
>>> I would appreciate any suggestions.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>> John
>>> WA1EAZ
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> View this message in context: 
>>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com 
>>> .
>>> __
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>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[John Stengrevics]

Audio settings are Codec.  But this not new.  Codec is required to make WSJT-X 
work and have been set this way for months..  

John
WA1EAZ

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 11:18 AM, Robert Nobis  wrote:
> 
> Check your audio settings, under systems preferences.
> 
> 
> Bob Nobis 
> n7...@nobis.net 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 5, 2017, at 07:51, stengrevics > > wrote:
>> 
>> New phenomenon.  When I go to a website that can play a video (such as
>> YouTube), and the video is played, something is transmitted by my K3S. 
>> Note:  This is a new phenomenon.  I have not knowingly changed any setting.
>> 
>> I would appreciate any suggestions.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> John
>> WA1EAZ
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
>>  
>> 
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com 
>> .
>> __
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>> Message delivered to n7...@nobis.net 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Devin Butterfield]

Maybe VOX is enabled??
—
Regards, Devin

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 8:18 AM, Robert Nobis  wrote:
> 
> Check your audio settings, under systems preferences.
> 
> 
> Bob Nobis 
> n7...@nobis.net 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 5, 2017, at 07:51, stengrevics > > wrote:
>> 
>> New phenomenon.  When I go to a website that can play a video (such as
>> YouTube), and the video is played, something is transmitted by my K3S. 
>> Note:  This is a new phenomenon.  I have not knowingly changed any setting.
>> 
>> I would appreciate any suggestions.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> John
>> WA1EAZ
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RS232 port selection

[Alan. G4GNX]

Ha. I've not managed it yet Don, but I read of others occasionally in panic.

I realise that there's a firmware force procedure, but as you say, I don't 
want the panic or a heart attack. :-)


One thing I always do is to backup all settings after a permanent change.

73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm

Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 1:57 PM
To: Alan. G4GNX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RS232 port selection

Alan,

While it is "not nice" to 'brick' the K3, there is quick and easy
recovery.  Just follow the instructions in the manual or the K3 Utility
Help file to 'Force a Firmware Download' - it takes only a minute or so.
The worst part is the initial gut-feeling alarm signals that go off - it
is not disaster, and easily fixed.

It has only happened to me once, and the cause was a computer glitch
during a firmware download.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[Robert Nobis]

Check your audio settings, under systems preferences.


Bob Nobis 
n7...@nobis.net


> On Apr 5, 2017, at 07:51, stengrevics  wrote:
> 
> New phenomenon.  When I go to a website that can play a video (such as
> YouTube), and the video is played, something is transmitted by my K3S. 
> Note:  This is a new phenomenon.  I have not knowingly changed any setting.
> 
> I would appreciate any suggestions.
> 
> 73,
> 
> John
> WA1EAZ
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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> 

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[Elecraft] Data Received on Mac Transmitted by K3S

[stengrevics]

New phenomenon.  When I go to a website that can play a video (such as
YouTube), and the video is played, something is transmitted by my K3S. 
Note:  This is a new phenomenon.  I have not knowingly changed any setting.

I would appreciate any suggestions.

73,

John
WA1EAZ



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Data-Received-on-Mac-Transmitted-by-K3S-tp7629009.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KX2 SUGGESTION

[KENT TRIMBLE]

As an Old Timer who still rides the RF Gain, I was disappointed that a 
concentric ring wasn't incorporated for that purpose in the AF/MON 
knob.  If such an animal exists (two concentric rings plus push) , all 
other functions of the AF/MON knob could be retained with the outer ring 
adjusting the RF Gain.


73,

Kent  K9ZTV
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Re: [Elecraft] Kx2/kx3 accesories suggestions-

[Paul Stoetzer]

Make that KX-6/23 full duplex and I'll buy six!

73,

Paul, N8HM

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 9:27 AM, Dean L  wrote:

> Wayne , Eric es all,
>
> Suggested by an OM on qrp-l and  I like it.
>
> > SNIP
> Perhaps a new KX3+ (KX4?) might really kill the FT-817.  Who knows?  BOY
> -what I wouldn't pay for a KX3+ that would give me 160m through 70cm
> (andplease somebody add 1.25m and 23cm all-mode !!!).  I would even settle
> forone that was only 6m - 23cm.  Call it the KX-6/23 or something.
> >
>
> Probably a bit less $ than a 2kw, 30lb, Sold state Amp.
>
> I'm in!
>
> 73
>
> Dean-K2WW
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[Elecraft] Kx2/kx3 accesories suggestions-

[Dean L]

Wayne , Eric es all,

Suggested by an OM on qrp-l and  I like it.

> SNIP
Perhaps a new KX3+ (KX4?) might really kill the FT-817.  Who knows?  BOY
-what I wouldn't pay for a KX3+ that would give me 160m through 70cm
(andplease somebody add 1.25m and 23cm all-mode !!!).  I would even settle
forone that was only 6m - 23cm.  Call it the KX-6/23 or something.
>

Probably a bit less $ than a 2kw, 30lb, Sold state Amp.

I'm in!

73

Dean-K2WW
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Re: [Elecraft] RS232 port selection

[Don Wilhelm]

Alan,

While it is "not nice" to 'brick' the K3, there is quick and easy 
recovery.  Just follow the instructions in the manual or the K3 Utility 
Help file to 'Force a Firmware Download' - it takes only a minute or so.
The worst part is the initial gut-feeling alarm signals that go off - it 
is not disaster, and easily fixed.


It has only happened to me once, and the cause was a computer glitch 
during a firmware download.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2017 8:25 AM, Alan. G4GNX wrote:

Thanks Don.

Just trying to be ultra careful as I'll be using the same PC and port 
and don't want to brick the K3.

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Re: [Elecraft] RS232 port selection

[Alan. G4GNX]

Thanks Don.

Just trying to be ultra careful as I'll be using the same PC and port and 
don't want to brick the K3.


73,

Alan. G4GNX

-Original Message- 
From: Don Wilhelm

Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 12:13 PM
To: Alan. G4GNX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RS232 port selection

Alan,

Yes, turning LP-Bridge off and connecting K3 Utility the the COM port
that is directly connected to the K3 is not only reasonable, but necessary.

73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] RS232 port selection

[Don Wilhelm]

Alan,

Yes, turning LP-Bridge off and connecting K3 Utility the the COM port 
that is directly connected to the K3 is not only reasonable, but necessary.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/5/2017 4:59 AM, Alan. G4GNX wrote:


I have been advised that updating K3 firmware via LP-Bridge is a no-no, 
so what I want to do is to assign the K3 'real' port number (specified 
in Edgeport) within LP-Bridge, but to turn LP-Bridge off when I want to 
update firmware and just point the K3 Utility to the K3 'real' port 
number directly.


Does this seem like a reasonable thing to do?

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[Elecraft] RS232 port selection

[Alan. G4GNX]

I have an Edgeport USB/RS232 converter which gives me 4 RS232 ports from one 
USB connection. I have the K3 connected to 1 port and the KPA500 connected 
to another port and I will be connecting other facilities to the remaining 
ports.


I have FLDIGI controlling the K3 at present and I want to add LOG4OM and 
other software which will all need to access the K3. I will be using 
LP-Bridge to automatically route the various programs to and from the K3, 
which should not be an issue.


I have been advised that updating K3 firmware via LP-Bridge is a no-no, so 
what I want to do is to assign the K3 'real' port number (specified in 
Edgeport) within LP-Bridge, but to turn LP-Bridge off when I want to update 
firmware and just point the K3 Utility to the K3 'real' port number 
directly.


Does this seem like a reasonable thing to do?

73,

Alan. G4GNX 


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