[Elecraft] Zero-Beat Procedure for the Elecraft K3s (DRAFT)

[Clay Autery]

It was not until recently that I acquired the TMP connectors and crimp 
tool to make a proper jumper cable from my K3s' J1 connector on my K3s’ 
TXCO (TMP) to my frequency counter (BNC), so I have always used the 
"zero-beat" method.  Periodically, I go back and repeat the TXCO 
calibration using a modified "Method 2 (Zero-Beating)" procedure (K3s 
Owner's Manual, Rev A1, p.53).  It originated (and grew) from a post 
snippet from this reflector. (Thanks Scott, K9MA)  IF you have an 
Elecraft P3 Panadapter, or other, connected to the K3s’ IF Out, you can 
use it to great facility in visualizing and verifying what "is" and what 
you "do".  I have written this procedure with the assumption that the P3 
is not present or is not being actively used beyond observation.  I may 
write an addendum later to include the active use of the panadapter vs. 
as an observational tool only.


For obvious reasons, the manual says to use the highest WWV frequency 
available, and references 10, 15, and 20 MHz.  Just in case you missed 
it, NIST put WWV at 25 MHz back on the air sometime in 2015, but they 
switched it to circular polarization around July of 2017.  Link: 
http://www.arrl.org/news/wwv-25-mhz-signal-swapped-to-circular-polarization 
OR, back to the half-wave dipole depending on which reference you read.  
  Point is, that I am having great luck using it as a 
reference signal.


Of interest to some may be the inclusion of a very simple equation that 
tells you how much and which way to adjust REF CAL in one shot.  No 
fuss, no muss, no futzing around and back and forth. You make one 
observation, one calculation, one input and you're done.  (Usually)  
MOST of the procedure is in the setup.


Go here to grab a PDF of the DRAFT document of the procedure I use: 
http://www.montac.com/pdfs/Elecraft_K3_Zero_Beat.pdf


73,

--
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

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Re: [Elecraft] L Bladeless Fan Technology

[Howard Hoyt]

The Dyson ad is misleading: it merely has no EXPOSED blades. What it is 
is a venturi pressurized by a bladed fan in the base. In this way it is 
trading high-pressure low-velocity for low-pressure high-velocity which 
is appropriate for a fan in free-air to cool human bodies.  Fans 
designed to push air through heatsink fins are designed for moderate to 
high back-pressure depending on fin density and height.


When we modeled our convective heatsinks for the KX2 & KX3, we also did 
designs with fans (and brought some to Dayton).  After iterating a 
heatsink design in ThermalCAD for hours to get the last percent more 
convective cooling, it is sobering and amazing how much heat you can 
remove by forcing air to remove the stagnant boundary layer of air from 
the heatsink.  It makes you realize natural convection is a very weak 
motor for air movement.


A tube amp can potentially be quieter than a solid state unit due to the 
fact that the total heat removal in BTUs is directly proportional to the 
temperature differential between the air and the object being cooled 
(Newton's Law of Cooling).


Analyzing the thermal path in each situation; the anode fins of a common 
3CX or 4CX series tube are directly cooled by the air and can run at 
250°C, whereas the transistor has some additional series thermal 
resistances to overcome before meeting the cooling air which can reduce 
the effective heatsink temperature at FET max junction temperature and 
heat flux to 125°C.  Assuming 25°C air, there can be a 225°C 
differential between air and tube anode, and a 100°C differential 
between the FET heatsink and air.  This means for any given volume of 
air passing through the two devices, there can be 2.25 times as many 
BTUs removed from a tube.  The other issue is the fact that the ceramic 
tube fins are designed for high pressure low-volume cooling, and most 
non-ducted FET heatsinks are designed for lower pressure, higher volume 
air flow. High-velocity fans typically create more noise than do higher 
pressure fans due to the relatively slower air movement and lower 
turbulence past the fins.  This being said I have used some really noisy 
tube amps.


I opt for an Elecraft KPA amp for many reasons; the fantastic K-Line 
integration, included ATU (in the 1500) and protection circuitry they 
design in.  I use a KPA500 which also can get loud, but I appreciate 
what it takes to remove 500 W of heat to keep a 500 W amp cool (assuming 
~50% efficiency).  Based on the reliability of the KPA500, I also do not 
think there is a tube amp on the market which protects it's devices as 
well as Elecraft does their FETs.  In order to address the noise issue, 
perhaps a remote control like the Acom 2000A offers is a good option for 
the KPA1500 at this point?


I was not paid to make this endorsement, just a happy customer.

Cheers & 73,

Howie - WA4PSC
www.proaudioeng.com


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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

If the interference is a product of 2 or more out of band signals mixing 
together, then a band pass filter would help.    If this the case, use 
of noise reduction or noise blanking in the KX3 will likely make the 
issue worse, not better.     One test is to use a step attenuator 
between the antenna and the receiver input.  Thus selecting some value 
of attenuation for all signals, thus equally reducing the 2 or more out 
of band signals.  If this improves your issues with regard to the 
interference, one can attribute to strong signals mixing and entering 
the receiver.  A band pass filter will likely help and allow you to 
transmit on that band as well as receive on that band.   A band pass 
filter will be required for each band you intend to operate.   A full 
set, they aren't cheap.


Likewise on 2M, many paging and public service systems are now 
transmitting digital data streams.  These cause me havoc on 2M as I am 
600 ft from the local 911 communications tower.  Only 12 total of 
antennas, VHF and UHF,  on that tower.   A band reject or notch filter 
corrects the issue.   But again, one needs to know the exact frequencies 
of the signals which are causing the interference as that is the 
frequency the notch must be applied. I use a filter from PAR Electronics 
which is a notch filter.  The insertion loss on 2M is very low allowing 
me to receive and transmit with the filter in the line between the radio 
and the antenna but provides about a 40 dB notch at the offending 
frequency.     In general handheld radios do not have adequate space 
internally to design in and implement good front end filters.   They in 
general are very subject to interference and do not perform well with RF 
from nearby services operating above or below the ham bands.


If the interference is in the pass band of the receiver, finding and 
eliminating the source is the optimum approach.  If the mixing 
components are in the PA of a transmitter and thus being radiated and 
picked up by your receiver, finding the source is about the only 
solution.   This could be the product of 2 FM stations in the building 
or a building of close proximity.   As an example, 99.5 MHz and 106.7 
MHz mixed together produce two signals being a sum and a difference.  
The difference is 7.2 MHz.smack in the 40M band.   Probably due to 
harmonics affect 20M and 15M to some extent.   Depending on exactly 
where the mixing is taking place, a corroded pipe on or in the building, 
in the PA of one of the transmitters, or some other device which becomes 
non linear when excited with RF, then it radiates the signal.  Finding 
and correcting the issue is about the only solution.


Third choice.move. Which in fact might be easier.   Just 
be sure one doesn't move into an RF plagued area.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On Jun 3, 2018, at 12:49 PM, Mike Parkes  wrote:

Hey group
I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
(ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that is
only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise for
the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
mountain peak... I know... :)

73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 ATU TUNE/MODE button Q.

[Dick Dievendorff]

If you HOLD the ATU TUNE button, you switch the ATU between IN and BYPASS.  
When you tap ATU tune, and provide some RF from the exciter, the ATU searches 
for a match.  If the SWR of the antenna is good enough without ATU reactances, 
the ATU discovers that the best tuning solution for that frequency is 
“bypassed”. And when that happens, both ATU LEDS are illuminated.  If you tune 
further up or down the band, and your antenna SWR is above 1.2, the ATU will 
insert reactances and if it does, the ATU BYP LED is not illuminated.

73 de Dick, K6KR

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 18:06, Bill Hassan  wrote:
> 
> I was noticing that when I hold the  ATU TUNE/ATU MODE button, the BYPASS
> led above it always stays on.
> The IN led will switch on and off as I hold the button a second time, but
> the bypass led will always remains on.
> I don't hear any relays latch.
> 
> This happens on all bands, except for 30m.
> 
> On 30m, holding in the button, releasing it and holding it again will turn
> on the IN led, and then the BYPASS led.
> I can hear the relays latch into place as it goes from in to bypass to in...
> 
> On all bands tapping the button will put the amp into tune mode. All normal
> there.
> 
> Something doesn't seem right with the ATU if the bypass and the in led are
> on at the same time.
> 
> Perhaps this could explain my other problems.
> 
> SN 209. Arrived 6/2, ordered late Oct.
> 
> Thoughts, ideas?
> 
> Bill, K1SM
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[Elecraft] KPA1500

[Larry Boekeloo]

For everyone complaining about the fan  noise, I would gladly trade my KPA500 
and KAT500 for your noisy KPA1500 at a reduced rate.

With 40% hearing loss, I'd love to hear the KPA1500.

I mounted an IBM mainframe cooling fan on top of my SB200 to keep it cool while 
working DX.  You want to hear fan noise?


Larry, KN8N

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Jim via Elecraft]

Rather than band pass filters, maybe try a good ‘ole low pass filter? Won’t 
work on two meters or maybe six meters, but I suspect most of the ambient RF is 
up in the VHF/UHF or above.  And if it’s in-band interference, a band pass 
filter won’t help either.

Used for the opposite reason - protecting us rather than our neighbors - than 
for what those LPFs were originally made and purchased.


73  -  Jim  K8MR



> On Jun 3, 2018, at 12:49 PM, Mike Parkes  wrote:
> 
> Hey group
> I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
> help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
> machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
> (ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
> handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
> impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that is
> only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
> squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise for
> the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
> filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
> can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
> one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
> sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
> that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
> mountain peak... I know... :)
> 
> 73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Drive Power

[K9MA]

Now I'm really confused.  I observed the power drop when operating 
several times, as described below. However, I just ran a test, both with 
an antenna and a dummy load, and saw only a very small change in output, 
perhaps 50 W, which is inconsequential.  I even tried simulating CW 
operating in QSK mode.  I can't think of anything else which has 
changed.  In each case, I'm reading the power output on the KPA1500 
display, but it appears consistent with the P3 TX monitor.  Any ideas?


BTW, the specs I've seen for LDMOS FET's like the ones I presume are 
used in the KPA1500 show quite a small variation in gain with 
temperature.  Feedback should reduce that further.  That would be 
consistent with my test results, but not the operating ones.


I'll do some more "real" operating in a couple days and report the results.

73,
Scott K9MA

On 5/30/2018 15:19, K9MA wrote:
I'm using the K3 with the Elecraft interface cable.  I've noticed the 
the CW drive power required by mine varies considerably, both with 
temperature and SWR.  If I set the K3 output for a KPA1500 output of 
1500 W output initially, the output will drop to perhaps 1100 W when 
the temperature stabilizes at around 65 C.  (I've ruled out any change 
in antenna impedance, etc.)  A similar change occurs if the SWR goes 
from 1:1 to 1.2:1 when changing frequency or switching antennas.  I 
haven't changed the ALC from the default setting.  Has anyone else 
noticed this?


73,

Scott K9MA



--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue

[Bill Stravinsky via Elecraft]

 Well said, Don, and I agree.  Its not an issue with me either.  Even though 
its my first solid state amp I realize the need to cool it.  They're already up 
to suggestingwater cooling.  I think we need to talk about hydrogen cooling, 
something the radio room on the Enterprise from Star Trek might have, hi.
The future firmware change might ease some of the "issues" some may have.  Even 
with that change I will still manually set the fan speed to 2 or maybe 3 
duringheavy contesting depending on the situation at the time.  I still prefer 
tube amps like my Acom 2000a but am glad I bought and own the kpa1500.

BillK3WJV

On Sunday, June 3, 2018, 7:36:52 PM EDT, Don Butler  
wrote:  
 
 A post this afternoon refered to KPA1500 fan noise as an "issue" that might
need to be addressed.  I personally think that is an unfair suggestion.
Fan noise with this amplifier is NOT an issue to me.  I have made previous
comments and have also posted a video on this thread, and if I have given
the impression that fan noise is a problem in my shack I apologize, because
that is simply not the case.
  
Quite frankly, I think all the hubbub about KPA1500 fan noise is a huge
overreaction.  The reality is that the fans will NEVER be required in most
operating situations.  I've had my amplifier for three months now, and it
has gotten many hours of use.  Typically, with the amp idling in standby as
I tune and complete occasional short CW QSOs, the fans NEVER do kick on.
And if they do they will rarely rise above Level  2.  Levels 3, 4 and 5 may
be required during very heavy duty only, and, at least at my station, I
cannot foresee that happening more than 1 or 2 percent of the time.  I have
manually selected level 3 on just two occasions, and have never had to use
levels  4 or 5.  I personally believe that folks out there are fretting
over fan noise that may never occur. 
 
IMHO the KPA1500 is a great amp.  Amps are going to get hot.  The more an
amp is put into transmit mode the hotter it's going to get.  So it has to
be cooled.  There's no free lunch.  When my amp does get hot enough to
require speed level 3 or above I will simply put on my earphones and
continue to operate (I use earphones most of the time anyhow).  As I
mentioned above, in the three months that I have owned this amplifier, I
have manually switched to level 3 just two times (once while CQing for hours
while running in a CW contest and once when I spent about 30 minutes chasing
a DX station in a major CW pileup). 
 
To me, increased fan cooling capability is one of the KPA1500's uniquely
great features.  Yes, the fans create noise, but they also rapidly cool the
heat sink (probably better than any other amplifier out there).  But folks
seem to be more concerned about this noise thing when (I think) they should
really be appreciating the KPA1500's superior cooling capabilities.
 
I think we should get over this fixation on noise and just enjoy our
amplifiers.

As far as I'm concerned fan noise is NOT as issue with the KPA1500.

Don, N5LZ
KPA1500 S/N 45

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 ATU TUNE/MODE button Q.

[Bill Hassan]

I was noticing that when I hold the  ATU TUNE/ATU MODE button, the BYPASS
led above it always stays on.
The IN led will switch on and off as I hold the button a second time, but
the bypass led will always remains on.
I don't hear any relays latch.

This happens on all bands, except for 30m.

On 30m, holding in the button, releasing it and holding it again will turn
on the IN led, and then the BYPASS led.
I can hear the relays latch into place as it goes from in to bypass to in...

On all bands tapping the button will put the amp into tune mode. All normal
there.

Something doesn't seem right with the ATU if the bypass and the in led are
on at the same time.

Perhaps this could explain my other problems.

SN 209. Arrived 6/2, ordered late Oct.

Thoughts, ideas?

Bill, K1SM
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue

[Bill Johnson]

Thanks for your report.  I am a future owner.  Paid for it and am awaiting 
delivery.  As a FT of KPA500, I cannot imagine the 1500 would be any less and 
in fact appears to be much more... as it should given the additional technology.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

https://wrj-tech.com/

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Butler
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 6:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue

A post this afternoon refered to KPA1500 fan noise as an "issue" that might
need to be addressed.   I personally think that is an unfair suggestion.
Fan noise with this amplifier is NOT an issue to me.   I have made previous
comments and have also posted a video on this thread, and if I have given the 
impression that fan noise is a problem in my shack I apologize, because that is 
simply not the case.
  
Quite frankly, I think all the hubbub about KPA1500 fan noise is a huge 
overreaction.  The reality is that the fans will NEVER be required in most
operating situations.   I've had my amplifier for three months now, and it
has gotten many hours of use.   Typically, with the amp idling in standby as
I tune and complete occasional short CW QSOs, the fans NEVER do kick on.
And if they do they will rarely rise above Level  2.   Levels 3, 4 and 5 may
be required during very heavy duty only, and, at least at my station, I
cannot foresee that happening more than 1 or 2 percent of the time.   I have
manually selected level 3 on just two occasions, and have never had to use
levels  4 or 5.   I personally believe that folks out there are fretting
over fan noise that may never occur. 
 
IMHO the KPA1500 is a great amp.   Amps are going to get hot.  The more an
amp is put into transmit mode the hotter it's going to get.   So it has to
be cooled.  There's no free lunch.   When my amp does get hot enough to
require speed level 3 or above I will simply put on my earphones and continue 
to operate (I use earphones most of the time anyhow).  As I mentioned above, in 
the three months that I have owned this amplifier, I have manually switched to 
level 3 just two times (once while CQing for hours while running in a CW 
contest and once when I spent about 30 minutes chasing a DX station in a major 
CW pileup). 
 
To me, increased fan cooling capability is one of the KPA1500's uniquely great 
features.  Yes, the fans create noise, but they also rapidly cool the
heat sink (probably better than any other amplifier out there).   But folks
seem to be more concerned about this noise thing when (I think) they should 
really be appreciating the KPA1500's superior cooling capabilities.
 
I think we should get over this fixation on noise and just enjoy our amplifiers.

As far as I'm concerned fan noise is NOT as issue with the KPA1500.

Don, N5LZ
KPA1500 S/N 45

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report

[kevinr]

Good Evening,

   I am not used to rooting for a winning team but now the Mariners 
have gotten themselves into first place.  I guess I'll just have to deal 
with it.  I am gradually building up the number of 1500 watt amp 
operators I've worked.  The amps really help when the QSB is the way it 
was today.  S0 one moment to S5 or S6 the next.  Those using their amps 
sound more 'full' if that's the term.  Even when the signal is weak they 
are easier to copy.  But then KW6G checks in running his KX3 at 10 watts 
to a vertical and has the best signal of the day.  It is either 
location, location, location, or a robust connection between fine sets 
of equipment.


   Twenty meters was not very strong while forty had stronger signal 
but deeper QSB.  There was a storm off in the distance crashing out a 
few letters now and then but not causing real problems.  I do wonder 
when I'll hear the easterners again.



  On 14050.5 kHz at 2200z:

K6XK - Roy - IA

W7SAG - John - ID


  On 7045 kHz at z:

VE7JBT - John - BC

K0DTJ - Brian - CA

K6PJV - Dale - CA

KW6G - Chas - CA


Until next week 73,

    Kevin.  KD5ONS

-


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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3(S) need occasional realignment?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Interesting topic. I actually had a tx gain cal failure with a new K3S on 6M 
but a subsequent tx gain try, it passed. I didn’t make any mistakes putting it 
together. Kind of an anxious moment with a a new rig right out of the box, but 
it did pass. I’m kind of shy to ever run tx gain cal again. 😳

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 4:59 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Knut,
> 
> Do you have a power loss on some bands that is not cured with a TX Gain 
> Calibration?
> Have you measured the receiver MDS and found it to be lacking from the last 
> time you measured it?
> 
> If the answer to both those questions is "NO", then the answer is that it 
> does not need any alignment.
> 
> Older tube rigs may be a different matter, but modern components are not as 
> prone to value changes with age as they were "back then".
> 
> This applies to any transceiver, and is not particular to the K3 or any other 
> one transceiver.
> 
> I have serviced K1s and K2s K2s that I had fully aligned and calibrated 
> several years before, and find them still in perfect alignment (although I do 
> go through the alignment procedures on those I service again just as a check).
> 
> Unless you have adequate instrumentation, I would not attempt it.
> It would be simpler to send your K3(S) back to Elecraft than to attempt it 
> yourself - by the time you obtain adequate instrumentation, you will spend 
> more money on the project than a trip to Elecraft.
> 
> Then you mention the other problem - lack of full instructions.  Those are 
> not available for the K3(S).  Elecraft has automated testing lines set up to 
> do that job.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> 
>> On 6/3/2018 4:53 PM, ab2tc wrote:
>> Hi,
>> Very recently there was the same question asked about the K1. I don't recall
>> any mention of this topic on the K3 on the reflector. It has internal
>> trimmers on the per ham band HF filter. Is it advisable to occasionally
>> touch these up? I have no reason to believe that my oldest K3 (ser#82) is
>> out of alignment, but I'd like to be ahead of the game. I am old enough to
>> have used tube rigs in my early ham career and they definitely needed
>> occasional tune up. The narrow band ham band RF filters in the K3 have
>> relatively high Q so the slightest component drift will quickly affect the
>> shape of the filter curve.
>> If the answer is affirmative, could we get a procedure for doing it
>> properly? Tuning for max signal at the center frequency may not produce the
>> proper shape of the bandpass filter (flat top for the required bandwidth). I
>> know from my previous career as an RF engineer that tuning LC bandpass
>> filters can be tricky.
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Re: [Elecraft] Fan Noise=Reflector Noise

[Bill Johnson]

The Fan thread is one topic that should remain on the list.  It is technical 
and related to an Elecraft product which is the purpose of the list.  As a 
future owner of the KPA1500, I want to know about issues, how to resolve them, 
and noted Eric's recent post, which all address this fine piece of equipment.  
I also use my deleted and in fact do the filters in Outlook 365 to get rid of 
what I find boring. Of course, Eric does an excellent job of calling the issues 
to and end when too much is said.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

https://wrj-tech.com/

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of alapa...@w2cs.net
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 6:57 PM
To: elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Fan Noise=Reflector Noise

I’m starting to wear off the “DEL” characters on my Delete Key, trying to wade 
through the Fan thread to get to the gems normally found on this reflector.  I 
think it’s time to declare the thread closed.

73, Gary W2CS


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[Elecraft] Fan Noise=Reflector Noise

[alapa...@w2cs.net]

I’m starting to wear off the “DEL” characters on my Delete Key, trying to wade 
through the Fan thread to get to the gems normally found on this reflector.  I 
think it’s time to declare the thread closed.

73, Gary W2CS


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[Elecraft] Please take me off the Elecraft email list...

[Greg Neely]

Thanks.

73

KL4JN
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver

[Ron Genovesi]

I’m interested. Keep the thread going here

Ron Genovesi
Sent from My  iPad

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 7:22 AM, Kjeld Holm  wrote:
> 
> Dear Bill,
> 
> Parts of the answer can be found at 
> http://www.sherweng.com/table.html
> search for Collins and you will get some 3 - 5 hits. 
> 
> Vy 73 de OZ1CCM, Kjeld  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
> Sent: 3. juni 2018 15:17
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver
> 
> Discounting the digital capabilities such as memories, DSP, etc. and 
> only considering actual signal reception: I have had S-lines in the past 
> (dark dim past), so certainly am familier with them. However, as a point 
> of curiosity, how does the S-line compare to the K3 (only interested in 
> SSB). Basically, I am interested in how a top of the line analog 
> receiver does compares to a K3(S)? The question comes from a QSO 
> regarding the microprocessor noise of modern rigs covering and/or 
> distorting received signals. Offline response might be good for this, as 
> I am sure not many would be interested in the subject.
> 
> Thanks, Bill W2BLC K-Line
> 
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise - Not An Issue

[Don Butler]

A post this afternoon refered to KPA1500 fan noise as an "issue" that might
need to be addressed.   I personally think that is an unfair suggestion.
Fan noise with this amplifier is NOT an issue to me.   I have made previous
comments and have also posted a video on this thread, and if I have given
the impression that fan noise is a problem in my shack I apologize, because
that is simply not the case.
  
Quite frankly, I think all the hubbub about KPA1500 fan noise is a huge
overreaction.  The reality is that the fans will NEVER be required in most
operating situations.   I've had my amplifier for three months now, and it
has gotten many hours of use.   Typically, with the amp idling in standby as
I tune and complete occasional short CW QSOs, the fans NEVER do kick on.
And if they do they will rarely rise above Level  2.   Levels 3, 4 and 5 may
be required during very heavy duty only, and, at least at my station, I
cannot foresee that happening more than 1 or 2 percent of the time.   I have
manually selected level 3 on just two occasions, and have never had to use
levels  4 or 5.   I personally believe that folks out there are fretting
over fan noise that may never occur. 
 
IMHO the KPA1500 is a great amp.   Amps are going to get hot.  The more an
amp is put into transmit mode the hotter it's going to get.   So it has to
be cooled.  There's no free lunch.   When my amp does get hot enough to
require speed level 3 or above I will simply put on my earphones and
continue to operate (I use earphones most of the time anyhow).  As I
mentioned above, in the three months that I have owned this amplifier, I
have manually switched to level 3 just two times (once while CQing for hours
while running in a CW contest and once when I spent about 30 minutes chasing
a DX station in a major CW pileup). 
 
To me, increased fan cooling capability is one of the KPA1500's uniquely
great features.  Yes, the fans create noise, but they also rapidly cool the
heat sink (probably better than any other amplifier out there).   But folks
seem to be more concerned about this noise thing when (I think) they should
really be appreciating the KPA1500's superior cooling capabilities.
 
I think we should get over this fixation on noise and just enjoy our
amplifiers.

As far as I'm concerned fan noise is NOT as issue with the KPA1500.

Don, N5LZ
KPA1500 S/N 45

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] FT-8 vs. PSK31: an enlightening Sunday morning field report

[David Gilbert]

Just out of curiosity, what's the difference between copying by ear 
versus copying by eye?  Every signal out there requires some sort of 
processing/demodulation for you to copy it.  Some modes turn it into 
audio and some modes turn it into text.  I think hardware even exists to 
turn it into touch.  Philosophically speaking, what's the difference?  
Your personal preference is fine, but it doesn't relegate the other to 
"noise".


Dave   AB7E




On 6/3/2018 9:39 AM, Lee Hiers wrote:

Yet i still can't copy it by earstill just noise.  Obviously YMMV.

73 de Lee, AA4GA


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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 parts for discontinued K1

[N4SO]

I am looking for spare parts for the K1, Specifically KFL1-2 or KFL1-4 band 
modules.
The purpose is to add 17 meters, and keep the current 14/21 band module.

The other question is if there are any junk Elecraft K1s in which a band module 
could
be salvaged and parts added for 17 meters.

Ken N4SO

n...@juno.com
n...@arrl.net
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise

[Bill Johnson]

Eric, based on the comments about fan speed, I was confident you and Wayne and 
team would address the issue with a good solution.  I have one on order and 
scheduled to be received in July.

72 & 73,
Bill
K9YEQ
FT'er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100,  KAT500, W2, etc. 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 11:14 PM
To: Les Peters 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise

One quick note:  We have shifted up the fan turn on temperatures by about 7 
degrees for Fan speed 2 and above in our next KPA1500 s/w release and on newly 
shipping amps.  The release should be available in the next week or two.

As noted by others,  setting the minimum RF deck fan speed to 1 (or 2 if 
desired) also further delays going to higher fan speeds in TX. 

Also, since the RF deck is instant on, its OK to turn it off from the front 
panel when you are mostly listening and tuning the band. (The amp can also be 
set to power up in operate mode in its menu..)  

There are no limitations to turning it on and off frequently. (Of course we 
recommend letting it cool first before turning it off temporarily when running 
higher duty TX cycles.) 

73,
Eric
elecraft.com
_..._
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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3(S) need occasional realignment?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Knut:

First, let me make it clear,  I do not repair Elecraft radios. In fact 
within the past year I've stopped repairing all radiosexcept 
mine.   And in my case, I've sent my K3S back to Elecraft to repair.


Even though I still have some $35K invested in test equipment inventory 
in my shop, a dedicated room in my building separate from the house,  I 
really don't have the necessary items and tools to work in detail with 
surface mount components and the technology, extender boards, test 
fixtures and such items as used today.   As to alignments, these are 
usually required but only after a component failure and thus it has been 
replaced.


So to answer your question; "If you encounter a misaligned K3 in your 
repair activities, how do you fix it?"   My answer:  I'd obtain a RA 
from Elecraft and sent it to them.   What ever it cost, is what it cost.


Present door to door turn-a-round time to Elecraft for repair is some 10 
to 20 days plus transportation.   My K3S was shipped on 5/8/2018 to 
Elecraft and is expected to be delivered to me on 6/7/2018 .    That's 
awfully close to 30 days.


 73

Bob, K4TAX



On 6/3/2018 4:38 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi Bob and all,

Thanks for your reply. I certainly have no intention to hop in there and
misalign my radio, so this is why I asked. If you encounter a misaligned K3
in your repair activities, how do you fix it?

AB2TC - Knut




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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3(S) need occasional realignment?

[Don Wilhelm]

Knut,

Do you have a power loss on some bands that is not cured with a TX Gain 
Calibration?
Have you measured the receiver MDS and found it to be lacking from the 
last time you measured it?


If the answer to both those questions is "NO", then the answer is that 
it does not need any alignment.


Older tube rigs may be a different matter, but modern components are not 
as prone to value changes with age as they were "back then".


This applies to any transceiver, and is not particular to the K3 or any 
other one transceiver.


I have serviced K1s and K2s K2s that I had fully aligned and calibrated 
several years before, and find them still in perfect alignment (although 
I do go through the alignment procedures on those I service again just 
as a check).


Unless you have adequate instrumentation, I would not attempt it.
It would be simpler to send your K3(S) back to Elecraft than to attempt 
it yourself - by the time you obtain adequate instrumentation, you will 
spend more money on the project than a trip to Elecraft.


Then you mention the other problem - lack of full instructions.  Those 
are not available for the K3(S).  Elecraft has automated testing lines 
set up to do that job.


73,
Don W3FPR



On 6/3/2018 4:53 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi,

Very recently there was the same question asked about the K1. I don't recall
any mention of this topic on the K3 on the reflector. It has internal
trimmers on the per ham band HF filter. Is it advisable to occasionally
touch these up? I have no reason to believe that my oldest K3 (ser#82) is
out of alignment, but I'd like to be ahead of the game. I am old enough to
have used tube rigs in my early ham career and they definitely needed
occasional tune up. The narrow band ham band RF filters in the K3 have
relatively high Q so the slightest component drift will quickly affect the
shape of the filter curve.

If the answer is affirmative, could we get a procedure for doing it
properly? Tuning for max signal at the center frequency may not produce the
proper shape of the bandpass filter (flat top for the required bandwidth). I
know from my previous career as an RF engineer that tuning LC bandpass
filters can be tricky.

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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3(S) need occasional realignment?

[ab2tc]

Hi Bob and all,

Thanks for your reply. I certainly have no intention to hop in there and
misalign my radio, so this is why I asked. If you encounter a misaligned K3
in your repair activities, how do you fix it?

AB2TC - Knut


Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote
> While repairing  quite a number of ham radios for others over the years, 
> I've made a tidy bit of money repairing radios where hams thought they 
> needed "touching up" with regard to alignments.  {If it isn't broke, 
> don't try to fix it.}
> 
> First, one should use some means and related test and measurement 
> equipment to determine "if a radio needs alignment".   In other words, 
> if one can't determine if it needs alignment, it probably does not need 
> alignment.   Just to jump in an start tweaking coils and trimmers has 
> put a lot of money in my pocket.  [In fact, I purchased a new loaded K3S 
> with other hams money. :-) ]
> 
> Just a word for the wise.. I have radios which are 20 to 30 
> years old which haven't been aligned since ex-factory.  They still meet 
> specs and thus do not need alignment today.   Now, if one has replaced 
> parts due to a failure, one should determine if any alignment is 
> required and if so, proceed.   Just be sure you have correct procedures 
> and required and calibrated test equipment.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 





--
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Re: [Elecraft] Is K1 re-alignment worthwhile?

[Don Wilhelm]

Doug,

The answer is "maybe".  If all is working fine and you have good power 
output, then I would suggest 'leave it alone'.
In any case, you will only have to peak the bandpass filters on the band 
board(s) very slightly with a TUNE at a power level between 1.5 and 2 
watts.  Make certain it has been powered on for at least 1/2 hour before 
aligning to allow things to come up to temperature.


You do not have to do the receive alignment of the bandpass filters 
first unless you have changed a band on the band board.


If you have the KNB1 installed, you will want to peak its trimmer 
capacitor for a maximum response in receive mode.


After aligning the bandpass filters, you can proceed to the BFO 
frequency (set it to center the FL3 passband at your desired sidetone 
pitch), and set the Transmit Offset to the same pitch.


You might also want to check the frequency of the VFO when the VFO knob 
is turned full counterclockwise, and also do the CAL OPF to get the VFO 
Display on frequency just in case the crystals on the band board have 
drifted over time.


If you are having a severe receive or transmit problem, then you may 
want to resort to Receive Signal Tracing or Transmit Signal Tracing to 
find the troublesome stage, but that is not usually necessary except in 
problem cases.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/3/2018 2:36 PM, Douglas Hagerman wrote:

I have a K1 that I built several years ago. It seems to work fine, but I am 
wondering if it is worthwhile going back and doing a re-alignment. Do they 
drift out of adjustment over time?

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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3(S) need occasional realignment?

[Grant Youngman]

I”d be really surprised if this were a “routine maintenance” item.  There 
probably aren’t more than a handful of people on the reflector that have the 
necessary equipment and expertise to do it themselves.   And that would mean 
that Elecraft would get every K3/s back periodically for routine adjustment.  
Doesn’t seem reasonable at all.

Tuning at the “center” will NOT produce a proper shape, guaranteed. And peaking 
the lower and upper pass frequencies aren’t likely to get it “flat” either.   
It’s not exceptionally difficult, but you have to know what you’re doing AND 
have the proper (good) lab equipment.  Most don’t, on either count.  I suspect 
putting out instructions for a DIY approach to this would be a disaster waiting 
to happen, given the typical ham shack penchant for “tightening all the screws” 
 :-)

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342

> 
> [The K3} has internal
> trimmers on the per ham band HF filter. Is it advisable to occasionally
> touch these up? I have no reason to believe that my oldest K3 (ser#82) is
> out of alignment, but I'd like to be ahead of the game. I am old enough to
> have used tube rigs in my early ham career and they definitely needed
> occasional tune up. The narrow band ham band RF filters in the K3 have
> relatively high Q so the slightest component drift will quickly affect the
> shape of the filter curve.
> 
> If the answer is affirmative, could we get a procedure for doing it
> properly? 
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Re: [Elecraft] Does the K3(S) need occasional realignment?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

While repairing  quite a number of ham radios for others over the years, 
I've made a tidy bit of money repairing radios where hams thought they 
needed "touching up" with regard to alignments.  {If it isn't broke, 
don't try to fix it.}


First, one should use some means and related test and measurement 
equipment to determine "if a radio needs alignment".   In other words, 
if one can't determine if it needs alignment, it probably does not need 
alignment.   Just to jump in an start tweaking coils and trimmers has 
put a lot of money in my pocket.  [In fact, I purchased a new loaded K3S 
with other hams money. :-) ]


Just a word for the wise.. I have radios which are 20 to 30 
years old which haven't been aligned since ex-factory.  They still meet 
specs and thus do not need alignment today.   Now, if one has replaced 
parts due to a failure, one should determine if any alignment is 
required and if so, proceed.   Just be sure you have correct procedures 
and required and calibrated test equipment.


73

Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] Is K1 re-alignment worthwhile?

[Mike Morrow]

Doug wrote:

> I have a K1 that I built several years ago. It seems to work fine,
> but I am wondering if it is worthwhile going back and doing a
> re-alignment. Do they drift out of adjustment over time?

The **most** critical adjustments on every tuned circuit of the K1 filter 
boards are made to peak transmitter output.  These adjustments are far more 
critical than any for receiver performance.

This means that the first sign of a need for filter board re-alignment is the 
inability to obtain 6 to 7 watts output on each band when the DC supply is 
about 14 vdc.

If you are getting good power output on each band, then there is **nothing** to 
be gained for either transmit or receive performance by re-alignment.

The only problems with drifting K1 alignment occurred with very early 
(2001-era) KFL1-4 four-band filter boards.  The original white-body 
tuning-adjustment capacitors were found to drift eith temperature change, which 
had great effect on the KFL1-4 sharply-peaked LC-circuits.  By 2002 superior 
new blue-body capacitors were supplied with with new KFL1-4 kits and also made 
available for back-fit in existing KFL1-4 boards.  I installed the back-fit and 
that permanently solved the problem.

The L-tuned KFL1-2 two-band boards never had the problem, but the circuits of 
the KFL1-2 are not as sharp as those of the KFL1-4 either.

Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] Does the K3(S) need occasional realignment?

[ab2tc]

Hi,

Very recently there was the same question asked about the K1. I don't recall
any mention of this topic on the K3 on the reflector. It has internal
trimmers on the per ham band HF filter. Is it advisable to occasionally
touch these up? I have no reason to believe that my oldest K3 (ser#82) is
out of alignment, but I'd like to be ahead of the game. I am old enough to
have used tube rigs in my early ham career and they definitely needed
occasional tune up. The narrow band ham band RF filters in the K3 have
relatively high Q so the slightest component drift will quickly affect the
shape of the filter curve.

If the answer is affirmative, could we get a procedure for doing it
properly? Tuning for max signal at the center frequency may not produce the
proper shape of the bandpass filter (flat top for the required bandwidth). I
know from my previous career as an RF engineer that tuning LC bandpass
filters can be tricky.

AB2TC - Knut




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[Elecraft] Bladeless Fan Technology

[Ed G]

All,
 Regarding the ongoing discussions about LDMOS cooling and fan noise, I ran 
across this new concept for a bladeless (at least the exposed parts) method of 
generating airflow:

https://www.dyson.com/fans-and-heaters/dyson-cool-overview.html

I have no idea whether Dyson is considering their technology for electronics 
cooling, but to me there is at least some potential for further development in 
the future.  In other words, it looks interesting, but of course it may turn 
out to be not practical, but the idea of up to 75% reduction in noise is 
intriguing.

--Ed, N3CW—



Sent from Mail for Windows 10




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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Mike Parkes]

Thanks Nick for that info, I have a lot of power lines all around this apt
building and I have wondered if a lot of the noise is coming from that.
I like the idea of turning the power off, and locating the source of
noise... at least then you have the satisfaction of knowing where it is
coming from or what it is.
73's Mike AB7RU

On Sun, Jun 3, 2018 at 11:13 AM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:

> Second that.  I have one external power supply from a well-known ham-gear
> manufacturer of somewhat questionable repute which throws off S9 racket all
> over everything, or did until I gave the output cord about 10 turns through
> a hefty ferrite.
>
> I'd forgotten about the RX Shift feature being per-band somehow... it could
> be my imagination but it seems to take down the omnipresent 30Hz impulse
> noise a few dB at my QTH in San Mateo.  (I've of course gone through
> turning off power to the house and driving around in portable operation...
> I think the problem is generally being anywhere near PG&E transmission
> lines, which is something that's hard to avoid anywhere in the SF
> peninsula.  The noise blanker also does a pretty decent job of suppressing
> it even further.)
>
>Nick
>
> On 3 June 2018 at 10:45, Mel Farrer via Elecraft  >
> wrote:
>
> > Wayne,
> > You missed one.  Depending on operation whether it is internal battery or
> > external supply.  I have had problems with a lot of external source, so
> > always put a dummy load on the antenna a see if the noise is conducted or
> > radiated.  Just one more reason to go solar/battery in the field.
> Yu.
> > Mel, K6KBE with KX3 is all applications
> >
> >   From: Wayne Burdick 
> >  To: Mike Parkes 
> > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >  Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 10:15 AM
> >  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > What you’re describing sounds like noise that is in-band and would be
> > debilitating for any radio. Not intermod. But just to be sure, set
> MENU:RX
> > SHFT to 8.0 and turn off the noise blanker. This is the most resilient
> > setup if you have monster signals actually causing IMD.
> >
> > Also try turning off the preamp.
> >
> > If the above steps don’t help, you could simply have a case of very high
> > noise floor. Here are a few more things you can try:
> >
> > 1. Use very narrow filter bandwidths. In CW mode, use the APF feature
> > (audio peaking filter).
> >
> > 2. Move the antenna farther from identified noise sources.
> >
> > 3. Try a magnetic loop. These are very narrow banded, and may have
> > directional characteristics you can make use of.
> >
> > If all else fails, try taking your KX3 portable as an experiment. A
> > location far from massive noise sources can be a breath of fresh air,
> both
> > atmospherically and ion-ically. It’s not a long-term solution unless,
> like
> > me, you discover that field operation is a blast. But it’ll give you some
> > perspective about your noise at home.
> >
> > 73,
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> > http://www.elecraft.com
> >
> > > On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:49 AM, Mike Parkes  wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey group
> > > I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
> > > help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
> > > machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
> > > (ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
> > > handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
> > > impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that
> > is
> > > only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn
> the
> > > squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise
> > for
> > > the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band
> pass
> > > filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good
> enough? I
> > > can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is
> this
> > > one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place
> with
> > > sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
> > > that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park,
> a
> > > mountain peak... I know... :)
> > >
> > > 73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
> > > __
> > > Elecraft mailing list
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> > >
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> > > Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
> > This list host

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 170, Issue 7

[John Perlick]

K3 vs S-Line

This is an interesting topic.  Sherwood has made distortion measurements on 
many many receivers.  As you see on his website, the K3 is far far better than 
the S-Line.  

The key measurements are dynamic range measurements—particularly with nearby 
signals.  The radio is limited at the low end by its noise floor (and because 
HF is so noisy you really done need super low noise floor).  But at the high 
end, the receiver is limited by distortion and blocking.  The K3 and, 
interestingly the KX3, are near the top of the list.  Far better than the old 
Collins rigs. 

I think what happens is we remember back in the 1960s when there were far fewer 
hams and that old 75A4 really sounded great!  I fully agree—these radios did 
sound great!  

But today there are twice as many hams crammed into the same bands and is can 
be really tough for receivers to discriminate without distorting.  

If you want to see what I mean, try using your 75S3C during a busy contest then 
switch to a K3.

As far as birdies, most radios have birdies.  Modern radios are so sensitive 
and selective that they can pick up the digital modem two houses away on 6” of 
wire. We live in a digital world and there are noise sources everywhere!  Even 
in the K3.  

I had birdies in my Icom 781, my WJ 8711’s and my K3. They were/are all below 
the atmospheric noise level. Never a problem!   My PL noise was far worse.  

Good topic, Bill!

John Perlick
Aria Corporation
www.ariacorp.com

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 1:17 PM, "elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net" 
>  wrote:
> 
> rom: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
> Sent: 3. juni 2018 15:17
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver
> 
> Discounting the digital capabilities such as memories, DSP, etc. and 
> only considering actual signal reception: I have had S-lines in the past 
> (dark dim past), so certainly am familier with them. However, as a point 
> of curiosity, how does the S-line compare to the K3 (only interested in 
> SSB). Basically, I am interested in how a top of the line analog 
> receiver does compares to a K3(S)? The question comes from a QSO 
> regarding the microprocessor noise of modern rigs covering and/or 
> distorting received signals. Offline response might be good for this, as 
> I am sure not many would be interested in the subject.
> 
> Thanks, Bill W2BLC K-Line
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

[jeff griffin]

That's true. Especially when you let stuff sit for 6 months between uses. I 
need to get more of those covers

73 Jeff kb2m

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Clay Autery
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 2:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

Make and break syndrome!  

Either there was a connector that was not fully mated even though you 
thought it was (something fouling a thread making it appear snug) or 
some oxidation/schmutz on one of the mating surfaces.

I've experienced BOTH... it is maddening for sure.  That's why I now put 
covers on ALL unused connector ends for cables/jumpers not actually in 
use.  There's a reason the military "dummy cords" a connector cover to 
virtually everything.  

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/03/18 09:58, jeff griffin wrote:
> FIXED ! This morning I went through the RF jumper cables. I didn't find any
> issues after taking each one out and inspecting. So I went through all the
> other Elecraft supplied cables and also found no issues. So just to be sure
> I make a new set of RF jumper cables out of LMR-240. Hooked everything up
> and the problem is now fixed. I then tried the jumper cables I replaced one
> at a time and the problem didn't return. Go figure. So I put the new LMR-240
> jumpers back on and life is once again good in kb2mland...
>
> 73 Jeff kb2m
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise - measured (sort of)

[Bob Rennard via Elecraft]

My measurements were taken with a microphone about 2 feet from the front panels 
of the components.   I wondered if W2PA’s alpha 89 was as quiet as he reported, 
so I thought I’d report on what I found -  

 

Ham shack in a finished (insulated drywall) room in a metal shed with equipment 
and HVAC off - 24 dBa

Above with Mitsubishi HVAC on - 29 dBa

HVAC was then turned off for the remainder of these measurements

KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans off (step 0)  - 36 dBa

KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 1  - 40 dBa

KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 2  - 44 dBa

KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 3  - 50 dBa

KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 4  - 57 dBa

KPA1500 PS fans on, RF deck fans at step 5  - 59 dBa


alpha 87a (everything else off) - 50 dBa - the fans run at a fixed speed when 
mains power is applied


My experience for S&P CW during WPX is that the KPA1500 PA temp rose to about 
64C so that the deck fans were at Step 2.   During a recent RTTY contest, the 
deck rose above 70C and the fans were running at Step 3 pushing a lot of warm 
air out of the vent holes above the heat sink.  


73 & YMMV,


Bob Rennard = N7WY
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[Elecraft] Water cooling; was KPA1500 Fan Noise

[John Simmons]

The Russian group, eb104, produces LDMOS water cooled amps. You can see 
them on their YouTube channel. The amps are much quieter than the 
KPA1500 but not as compact.


73,
-John NI0K


Clay Autery 
Sunday, June 03, 2018 1:08 PM
"Water cooling" has come a LONG way from the days back in the 90s when 
we were machining out own water blocks from aluminum and copper, and 
trying to construct flow loops that didn't leak, find suitable 
radiators, etc.


But I don't think there are any current CPU/GPU coolers on the market 
that would touch the heat rejection requirements of the combined LDMOS 
modules, assuming you could find a model that could be adapted, and 
somehow managed to find a way to get it attached  You'd ALMOST 
HAVE to cool the copper heat spreader, since the LDMOS are I suspect 
soldered to it.  Don't know if the heat spreader is soldered or 
mechanically attached to the heat sink..  It is possible that you 
could gang multiple large OTS CPU coolers onto the heat spreader in 
place of the massive heatsink.


Then you'd need to figure out what you were going to do with the 1- 
"n" number of sets of hoses and radiators and 1-3 times n number 
of radiators in very large fans.


And THEN, remember that there are other thermal loads inside the 
chassis...  You'll still need to provided some airflow to those loads, 
so you'll still need case fans.


Certainly and interesting and intriguing project for someone deep of 
pockets and most grande of huevos  but not a trivial task certainly.

I personally would not risk my $6k amp to do it... If I had one.  :(

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389



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Drew AF2Z 
Sunday, June 03, 2018 8:11 AM
There are liquid cooling systems available for CPUs and graphics 
cards, used by gamers and overclockers. Have no idea how this would 
compare to cooling a 1500 watt RF power amplifier but probably more 
analogous than an airplane engine.


73,
Drew
AF2Z




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Dauer, Edward 
Saturday, June 02, 2018 4:09 PM
I have been following this thread with interest because I have a 
KPA1500 on order, and I have very limited flexibility as to where the 
RF deck can go compared to where I will have to sit.


Don's video was very well done and a great help in understanding the 
realities.


I know zero about thermodynamics, and so wanted only to say thanks to 
everyone who is contributing ideas, and to make but two comments.


First, as to water cooling, I suspect it would be a huge weight 
penalty to get the cooling fluid everywhere it needs to be. So far as 
I know there is only one reciprocating engine made for aircraft that 
has a water jacket. (There might be others nowadays - I haven't owned 
an airplane for some years.) The reasons others don't are reliability, 
safety, complexity, and - mostly - weight. Second, isn't this largely 
a contest-operating issue? I believe we are still governed by the rule 
that we may use only that amount of power necessary for the 
communication. I contest too, so I'll face the problem on those 
occasions, but not for casual ragchews. I plan to make some graphs of 
when in terms of time, power, mode and band the fans on mine kick up a 
notch, and use it as a general operating guideline if I need to.


Ted, KN1CBR



Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 08:48:46 -0600
From: Don Butler 
To: Paul Baldock , "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise Video posted
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Paul ?. The PS noise is minimal from my point of view. The power 
supply fans do run continuously while the amp is switched on ?. You 
can hear the PS fans at the beginning and end of the video when the 
fan speed is set at ?0? .. all you?re hearing at that time is the PS 
fan ? at power down right at the end you can hear when the PS fans stop.


Don, N5LZ



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Message del

[Elecraft] Is K1 re-alignment worthwhile?

[Douglas Hagerman]

I have a K1 that I built several years ago. It seems to work fine, but I am 
wondering if it is worthwhile going back and doing a re-alignment. Do they 
drift out of adjustment over time?

Thanks.

Doug, W0UHU.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

[Clay Autery]

Make and break syndrome!  

Either there was a connector that was not fully mated even though you 
thought it was (something fouling a thread making it appear snug) or 
some oxidation/schmutz on one of the mating surfaces.


I've experienced BOTH... it is maddening for sure.  That's why I now put 
covers on ALL unused connector ends for cables/jumpers not actually in 
use.  There's a reason the military "dummy cords" a connector cover to 
virtually everything.  


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/03/18 09:58, jeff griffin wrote:

FIXED ! This morning I went through the RF jumper cables. I didn't find any
issues after taking each one out and inspecting. So I went through all the
other Elecraft supplied cables and also found no issues. So just to be sure
I make a new set of RF jumper cables out of LMR-240. Hooked everything up
and the problem is now fixed. I then tried the jumper cables I replaced one
at a time and the problem didn't return. Go figure. So I put the new LMR-240
jumpers back on and life is once again good in kb2mland...

73 Jeff kb2m



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

[jeff griffin]

The jumpers connectors were good quality, but are very old I think I built
them maybe 20 years ago. Anyway now I use better coax, and quality crimp on
connectors I use either Amphenol or the DX Engineering brand which seem to
me to be equal to the Amphenol brand. I'm not the type to pursue this
farther, I'm not going to dissect the connectors on the old jumpers, I'm
just going to throw them out. I have better things to do with my time :-)

73 Jeff kb2m


-Original Message-
From: Bob McGraw K4TAX [mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 1:52 PM
To: jeff griffin
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

Loose or poor quality PL-259.  There are many which "look good" but are not.
Always snug PL-259 connectors on the SO-239 such they are a bit more than
finger tight. I use/have a pair of 4" Channel lock pliers on the desk. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:58 AM, jeff griffin  wrote:
> 
> FIXED ! This morning I went through the RF jumper cables. I didn't find
any
> issues after taking each one out and inspecting. So I went through all the
> other Elecraft supplied cables and also found no issues. So just to be
sure
> I make a new set of RF jumper cables out of LMR-240. Hooked everything up
> and the problem is now fixed. I then tried the jumper cables I replaced
one
> at a time and the problem didn't return. Go figure. So I put the new
LMR-240
> jumpers back on and life is once again good in kb2mland...
> 
> 73 Jeff kb2m
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of jeff griffin
> Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 11:49 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree
> 
> I recently brought my KPA/KAT500 north for the summer and hooked up to my
> trapped multiband fan dipole that I use here in NJ. I leave my K3 here for
> remote use and use the amp at my winter home in Florida to use with my
Flex
> 6500 with a Steppir Vertical antenna without the KAT500 tuner. When I got
up
> here I installed the KIO3B option. The install went well with no issues,
all
> looked good so I connected the K3, P3, KAT500, and KPA500 with the
Elecraft
> provided cable set like I do every year. 
> 
> The issue I'm having is an SWR difference between the KAT500 and the K3.
> For example if I use the K3's internal tuner I can on a chosen frequency
> achieve an SWR of 1/1. I the put the internal K3 tuner in bypass mode and
> take the KAT500 out of bypass and set to auto. I then use the xmit button
on
> the K3 to create a tune signal to be sent to the KAT500. The K3 then shows
a
> 1/1, the KAT500 about the same but the KPA500 which is in STBY mode shows
> around 3/1. What this causes to happen is the Amp will fault out if I try
to
> use any power output. If I check the antenna with a trusted SWR meter I
see
> 1.3/1 at the frequency of use. I upgraded the firmware in all the devices
in
> use, I also did a reset of the KAT's stored frequencies memory, and
checked
> both the amp and tuner with the utility programs. I'm going to call
Elecraft
> on Monday, anyone have any ideas in the meantime I can try?
> 
> 73 Jeff kb2m   
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Nicklas Johnson]

Second that.  I have one external power supply from a well-known ham-gear
manufacturer of somewhat questionable repute which throws off S9 racket all
over everything, or did until I gave the output cord about 10 turns through
a hefty ferrite.

I'd forgotten about the RX Shift feature being per-band somehow... it could
be my imagination but it seems to take down the omnipresent 30Hz impulse
noise a few dB at my QTH in San Mateo.  (I've of course gone through
turning off power to the house and driving around in portable operation...
I think the problem is generally being anywhere near PG&E transmission
lines, which is something that's hard to avoid anywhere in the SF
peninsula.  The noise blanker also does a pretty decent job of suppressing
it even further.)

   Nick

On 3 June 2018 at 10:45, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
wrote:

> Wayne,
> You missed one.  Depending on operation whether it is internal battery or
> external supply.  I have had problems with a lot of external source, so
> always put a dummy load on the antenna a see if the noise is conducted or
> radiated.  Just one more reason to go solar/battery in the field.  Yu.
> Mel, K6KBE with KX3 is all applications
>
>   From: Wayne Burdick 
>  To: Mike Parkes 
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>  Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 10:15 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3
>
> Mike,
>
> What you’re describing sounds like noise that is in-band and would be
> debilitating for any radio. Not intermod. But just to be sure, set MENU:RX
> SHFT to 8.0 and turn off the noise blanker. This is the most resilient
> setup if you have monster signals actually causing IMD.
>
> Also try turning off the preamp.
>
> If the above steps don’t help, you could simply have a case of very high
> noise floor. Here are a few more things you can try:
>
> 1. Use very narrow filter bandwidths. In CW mode, use the APF feature
> (audio peaking filter).
>
> 2. Move the antenna farther from identified noise sources.
>
> 3. Try a magnetic loop. These are very narrow banded, and may have
> directional characteristics you can make use of.
>
> If all else fails, try taking your KX3 portable as an experiment. A
> location far from massive noise sources can be a breath of fresh air, both
> atmospherically and ion-ically. It’s not a long-term solution unless, like
> me, you discover that field operation is a blast. But it’ll give you some
> perspective about your noise at home.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
>
>
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
>
> > On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:49 AM, Mike Parkes  wrote:
> >
> > Hey group
> > I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
> > help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
> > machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
> > (ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
> > handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
> > impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that
> is
> > only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
> > squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise
> for
> > the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
> > filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
> > can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
> > one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
> > sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
> > that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
> > mountain peak... I know... :)
> >
> > 73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>



-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. A

Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise

[Clay Autery]

"Water cooling" has come a LONG way from the days back in the 90s when 
we were machining out own water blocks from aluminum and copper, and 
trying to construct flow loops that didn't leak, find suitable 
radiators, etc.


But I don't think there are any current CPU/GPU coolers on the market 
that would touch the heat rejection requirements of the combined LDMOS 
modules, assuming you could find a model that could be adapted, and 
somehow managed to find a way to get it attached  You'd ALMOST HAVE 
to cool the copper heat spreader, since the LDMOS are I suspect soldered 
to it.  Don't know if the heat spreader is soldered or mechanically 
attached to the heat sink..  It is possible that you could gang multiple 
large OTS CPU coolers onto the heat spreader in place of the massive 
heatsink.


Then you'd need to figure out what you were going to do with the 1- "n" 
number of sets of hoses and radiators and 1-3 times n number of 
radiators in very large fans.


And THEN, remember that there are other thermal loads inside the 
chassis...  You'll still need to provided some airflow to those loads, 
so you'll still need case fans.


Certainly and interesting and intriguing project for someone deep of 
pockets and most grande of huevos  but not a trivial task certainly.

I personally would not risk my $6k amp to do it... If I had one.  :(

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 06/03/18 08:11, Drew AF2Z wrote:
There are liquid cooling systems available for CPUs and graphics 
cards, used by gamers and overclockers. Have no idea how this would 
compare to cooling a 1500 watt RF power amplifier but probably more 
analogous than an airplane engine.


73,
Drew
AF2Z


On 06/02/18 17:09, Dauer, Edward wrote:


I have been following this thread with interest because I have a 
KPA1500 on order, and I have very limited flexibility as to where the 
RF deck can go compared to where I will have to sit.


Don's video was very well done and a great help in understanding the 
realities.


I know zero about thermodynamics, and so wanted only to say thanks to 
everyone who is contributing ideas, and to make but two comments.


First, as to water cooling, I suspect it would be a huge weight 
penalty to get the cooling fluid everywhere it needs to be.  So far 
as I know there is only one reciprocating engine made for aircraft 
that has a water jacket.  (There might be others nowadays - I haven't 
owned an airplane for some years.)  The reasons others don't are 
reliability, safety, complexity, and - mostly - weight.  Second, 
isn't this largely a contest-operating issue?   I believe we are 
still governed by the rule that we may use only that amount of power 
necessary for the communication.    I contest too, so I'll face the 
problem on those occasions, but not for casual ragchews.  I plan to 
make some graphs of when in terms of time, power, mode and band the 
fans on mine kick up a notch, and use it as a general operating 
guideline if I need to.


Ted, KN1CBR




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Loose or poor quality PL-259.  There are many which "look good" but are not. 
Always snug PL-259 connectors on the SO-239 such they are a bit more than 
finger tight. I use/have a pair of 4" Channel lock pliers on the desk. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:58 AM, jeff griffin  wrote:
> 
> FIXED ! This morning I went through the RF jumper cables. I didn't find any
> issues after taking each one out and inspecting. So I went through all the
> other Elecraft supplied cables and also found no issues. So just to be sure
> I make a new set of RF jumper cables out of LMR-240. Hooked everything up
> and the problem is now fixed. I then tried the jumper cables I replaced one
> at a time and the problem didn't return. Go figure. So I put the new LMR-240
> jumpers back on and life is once again good in kb2mland...
> 
> 73 Jeff kb2m
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of jeff griffin
> Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 11:49 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree
> 
> I recently brought my KPA/KAT500 north for the summer and hooked up to my
> trapped multiband fan dipole that I use here in NJ. I leave my K3 here for
> remote use and use the amp at my winter home in Florida to use with my Flex
> 6500 with a Steppir Vertical antenna without the KAT500 tuner. When I got up
> here I installed the KIO3B option. The install went well with no issues, all
> looked good so I connected the K3, P3, KAT500, and KPA500 with the Elecraft
> provided cable set like I do every year. 
> 
> The issue I'm having is an SWR difference between the KAT500 and the K3.
> For example if I use the K3's internal tuner I can on a chosen frequency
> achieve an SWR of 1/1. I the put the internal K3 tuner in bypass mode and
> take the KAT500 out of bypass and set to auto. I then use the xmit button on
> the K3 to create a tune signal to be sent to the KAT500. The K3 then shows a
> 1/1, the KAT500 about the same but the KPA500 which is in STBY mode shows
> around 3/1. What this causes to happen is the Amp will fault out if I try to
> use any power output. If I check the antenna with a trusted SWR meter I see
> 1.3/1 at the frequency of use. I upgraded the firmware in all the devices in
> use, I also did a reset of the KAT's stored frequencies memory, and checked
> both the amp and tuner with the utility programs. I'm going to call Elecraft
> on Monday, anyone have any ideas in the meantime I can try?
> 
> 73 Jeff kb2m   
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] FT-8 vs. PSK31: an enlightening Sunday morning field report

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

There is nothing quite so satisfying as a nice ragchew in a quiet room 
with some nice light jazz or somesuch in the background.


... or Wayne may have enjoyed the quiet morning outside during his 
PSK-31 QSO.


There are higher uses for ears, but obviously, YMMV.

73 -- Lynn

On 6/3/2018 9:39 AM, Lee Hiers wrote:

Yet i still can't copy it by earstill just noise.  Obviously YMMV.

73 de Lee, AA4GA

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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Wayne, 
You missed one.  Depending on operation whether it is internal battery or 
external supply.  I have had problems with a lot of external source, so always 
put a dummy load on the antenna a see if the noise is conducted or radiated.  
Just one more reason to go solar/battery in the field.  Yu.
Mel, K6KBE with KX3 is all applications

  From: Wayne Burdick 
 To: Mike Parkes  
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 10:15 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3
   
Mike,

What you’re describing sounds like noise that is in-band and would be 
debilitating for any radio. Not intermod. But just to be sure, set MENU:RX SHFT 
to 8.0 and turn off the noise blanker. This is the most resilient setup if you 
have monster signals actually causing IMD. 
 
Also try turning off the preamp. 

If the above steps don’t help, you could simply have a case of very high noise 
floor. Here are a few more things you can try:

1. Use very narrow filter bandwidths. In CW mode, use the APF feature (audio 
peaking filter). 

2. Move the antenna farther from identified noise sources. 

3. Try a magnetic loop. These are very narrow banded, and may have directional 
characteristics you can make use of. 

If all else fails, try taking your KX3 portable as an experiment. A location 
far from massive noise sources can be a breath of fresh air, both 
atmospherically and ion-ically. It’s not a long-term solution unless, like me, 
you discover that field operation is a blast. But it’ll give you some 
perspective about your noise at home. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR

 




http://www.elecraft.com

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:49 AM, Mike Parkes  wrote:
> 
> Hey group
> I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
> help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
> machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
> (ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
> handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
> impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that is
> only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
> squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise for
> the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
> filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
> can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
> one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
> sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
> that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
> mountain peak... I know... :)
> 
> 73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Wayne Burdick]

Mike,

What you’re describing sounds like noise that is in-band and would be 
debilitating for any radio. Not intermod. But just to be sure, set MENU:RX SHFT 
to 8.0 and turn off the noise blanker. This is the most resilient setup if you 
have monster signals actually causing IMD. 
 
Also try turning off the preamp. 

If the above steps don’t help, you could simply have a case of very high noise 
floor. Here are a few more things you can try:

1. Use very narrow filter bandwidths. In CW mode, use the APF feature (audio 
peaking filter). 

2. Move the antenna farther from identified noise sources. 

3. Try a magnetic loop. These are very narrow banded, and may have directional 
characteristics you can make use of. 

If all else fails, try taking your KX3 portable as an experiment. A location 
far from massive noise sources can be a breath of fresh air, both 
atmospherically and ion-ically. It’s not a long-term solution unless, like me, 
you discover that field operation is a blast. But it’ll give you some 
perspective about your noise at home. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR

 




http://www.elecraft.com

> On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:49 AM, Mike Parkes  wrote:
> 
> Hey group
> I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
> help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
> machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
> (ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
> handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
> impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that is
> only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
> squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise for
> the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
> filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
> can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
> one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
> sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
> that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
> mountain peak... I know... :)
> 
> 73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
> __
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[Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Mike Parkes]

Hey group
I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
(ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that is
only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise for
the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
mountain peak... I know... :)

73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] FT-8 vs. PSK31: an enlightening Sunday morning field report

[Lee Hiers]

Yet i still can't copy it by earstill just noise.  Obviously YMMV.

73 de Lee, AA4GA

On Sun, Jun 3, 2018, 12:20 PM Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com [KX3] <
kx3-nore...@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

>
>
> Thanks, everyone, for all the pragmatic and philosophical observations
> about FT-8. Depending on who you ask, it’s anywhere from miraculous to
> take-it-or-leave-it. Or both. This is characteristic of many aspects of
> amateur radio, of course. To each their own.
>
> A different sub-noise-floor mode, PSK31, was on my mind this morning.
> After breakfast I grabbed my KX2 and 17/20 meter whip and went outside to
> check the bands. All of the CW signals were weak at the time. Then I
> happened across a warbling PSK31 signal in this mode’s preferred segment
> (14070-14073)—a VA7 calling CQ.
>
> I used the KX2’s auto-spot function, resulting in perfect copy. He came
> back to me on the first call at 10 W, which is not unusual; PSK31 has an
> established track record as a great QRP more.
>
> The important point is that I was able to carry on a satisfying,
> non-automated, data-mode QSO using a only a hand-held radio with an
> attached keyer paddle. In my sweats. On a gorgeous day right out of a
> Maxfield Parrish painting. Without a computer.
>
> I was reminded that PSK31 *is* that mystical unicorn: the sub-noise-floor
> data mode that’s also a conversational mode. It isn’t full QSK, like CW,
> and it lacks the rigor of FT-8, but it has some of the advantages of both.
> This is why PSK31 (and PSK63) are built into the K3, K3S, KX3, and KX2. All
> you need is a keyer paddle. If you prefer a keyboard, you can use a
> terminal emulator application running on a variety of devices. Just attach
> your device to the rig using the supplied USB cable.
>
> To summarize: If you’re a CW op who’s temporarily out of CW signals, or an
> FT-8 user who longs for a few unmediated QSOs, take a walk on the wild side
> and try PSK.
>
> Notes:
>
> 1. Elecraft radios have a special mode, “PSK-D”, that treats PSK31/63 as a
> narrowband mode for VFO tuning purposes. You don’t just park the VFO at
> 14070 like you do when using a sound card and a computer. Instead, use a
> very narrow filter bandwidth (50 to 100 Hz) and tune around the 3 kHz PSK
> segment using the VFO set to 1-Hz steps. When you find a signal, tap the
> keyer speed knob, which auto-tunes the received signal (this is the “SPT”
> function).
>
> 2. RTTY mode (FSK-D) is also available. This legacy mode is great fun
> during RTTY contests. Last year at FD, taking a break from CW, I made over
> a dozen RTTY contacts using the KX2, including one of over 2500 miles with
> the rig hand-held + whip.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
> __._,_.___
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[Elecraft] FT-8 vs. PSK31: an enlightening Sunday morning field report

[Wayne Burdick]

Thanks, everyone, for all the pragmatic and philosophical observations about 
FT-8. Depending on who you ask, it’s anywhere from miraculous to 
take-it-or-leave-it. Or both. This is characteristic of many aspects of amateur 
radio, of course. To each their own. 

A different sub-noise-floor mode, PSK31, was on my mind this morning. After 
breakfast I grabbed my KX2 and 17/20 meter whip and went outside to check the 
bands. All of the CW signals were weak at the time. Then I happened across a 
warbling PSK31 signal in this mode’s preferred segment (14070-14073)—a VA7 
calling CQ. 

I used the KX2’s auto-spot function, resulting in perfect copy. He came back to 
me on the first call at 10 W, which is not unusual; PSK31 has an established 
track record as a great QRP more. 

The important point is that I was able to carry on a satisfying, non-automated, 
data-mode QSO using a only a hand-held radio with an attached keyer paddle. In 
my sweats. On a gorgeous day right out of a Maxfield Parrish painting. Without 
a computer. 

I was reminded that PSK31 *is* that mystical unicorn: the sub-noise-floor data 
mode that’s also a conversational mode. It isn’t full QSK, like CW, and it 
lacks the rigor of FT-8, but it has some of the advantages of both. This is why 
PSK31 (and PSK63) are built into the K3, K3S, KX3, and KX2. All you need is a 
keyer paddle. If you prefer a keyboard, you can use a terminal emulator 
application running on a variety of devices. Just attach your device to the rig 
using the supplied USB cable. 

To summarize: If you’re a CW op who’s temporarily out of CW  signals, or an 
FT-8 user who longs for a few unmediated QSOs, take a walk on the wild side and 
try PSK. 

Notes:

1.  Elecraft radios have a special mode, “PSK-D”, that treats PSK31/63 as a 
narrowband mode for VFO tuning purposes. You don’t just park the VFO at 14070 
like you do when using a sound card and a computer. Instead, use a very narrow 
filter bandwidth (50 to 100 Hz) and tune around the 3 kHz PSK segment using the 
VFO set to 1-Hz steps. When you find a signal, tap the keyer speed knob, which 
auto-tunes the received signal (this is the “SPT” function). 

2. RTTY mode (FSK-D) is also available. This legacy mode is great fun during 
RTTY contests. Last year at FD, taking a break from CW, I made over a dozen 
RTTY contacts using the KX2, including one of over 2500 miles with the rig 
hand-held + whip. 

73,
Wayne 
N6KR


http://www.elecraft.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

[jeff griffin]

FIXED ! This morning I went through the RF jumper cables. I didn't find any
issues after taking each one out and inspecting. So I went through all the
other Elecraft supplied cables and also found no issues. So just to be sure
I make a new set of RF jumper cables out of LMR-240. Hooked everything up
and the problem is now fixed. I then tried the jumper cables I replaced one
at a time and the problem didn't return. Go figure. So I put the new LMR-240
jumpers back on and life is once again good in kb2mland...

73 Jeff kb2m
 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of jeff griffin
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 11:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 and K3 SWR meters disagree

 I recently brought my KPA/KAT500 north for the summer and hooked up to my
trapped multiband fan dipole that I use here in NJ. I leave my K3 here for
remote use and use the amp at my winter home in Florida to use with my Flex
6500 with a Steppir Vertical antenna without the KAT500 tuner. When I got up
here I installed the KIO3B option. The install went well with no issues, all
looked good so I connected the K3, P3, KAT500, and KPA500 with the Elecraft
provided cable set like I do every year. 
  
 The issue I'm having is an SWR difference between the KAT500 and the K3.
For example if I use the K3's internal tuner I can on a chosen frequency
achieve an SWR of 1/1. I the put the internal K3 tuner in bypass mode and
take the KAT500 out of bypass and set to auto. I then use the xmit button on
the K3 to create a tune signal to be sent to the KAT500. The K3 then shows a
1/1, the KAT500 about the same but the KPA500 which is in STBY mode shows
around 3/1. What this causes to happen is the Amp will fault out if I try to
use any power output. If I check the antenna with a trusted SWR meter I see
1.3/1 at the frequency of use. I upgraded the firmware in all the devices in
use, I also did a reset of the KAT's stored frequencies memory, and checked
both the amp and tuner with the utility programs. I'm going to call Elecraft
on Monday, anyone have any ideas in the meantime I can try?

73 Jeff kb2m   

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Re: [Elecraft] Boldly OT: 6 meter Sporadic-E season and the FT-8 microjuggernaut

[Dave Cole]

I have a Perl script that scrapes my DX cluster, and announces when a
band is open...  If you want it, email me DIRECT, NOT ON THE LIST, and I
can send it to you.  It uses no more resources than any other cluster
client, so it can work on many clusters.  The script has more comments
than actual code, so it is readable.  

You will need to change things to match your directory structure, and a
few other items as well, but once working it is actually pretty
reliable.  

The script scrapes my DX Cluster, and when if is sees "trigger number"
of DX stations spotting US stations from zones 3, 4, or 5, for selected
bands, it increments a counter for each zone and band.

Once a "time period" it checks the increment counters to see what the
count is for a selected zone, and band, and if the count is larger than
a programmable trigger, if so, it announces that whatever band exceeded
the trigger is open using an MP3 file.  

It actually works quite well.  I am in the process of changing it to not
look at zone, but grid squares to better localize it.

Anyway, if you want a copy you are welcome to it, but please send email
to me NOT TO THE LIST.  

I am out of town now, so it will be a few days before I respond.  If you
improve the script, please return it to me as well...

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
Dave (NK7Z)
http://www.nk7z.net 

On Sat, 2018-06-02 at 12:28 -0500, Scott wrote:
> Wayne,
> 
> I'll give answering your question a try.  Hopefully I won't piss off 
> everyone... and it won't be too long.
> 
> 0).  First, monitor beacons or participate in the RBN for band openings 
> and then call CQ on open bands.  Heck, call CQ on "closed" bands... one 
> never knows.  I suspect there are more band openings than most would 
> admit or even know about and maybe we need more hams willing to set up 
> beacons.  I once copied a SSB qso of ON4UN and a stateside ham on 15m 
> when all the prop computer programs said 15m was closed.
> 
> 1).  CW ops should make MORE use of the computer... especially for 
> calling CQ.  Once a reply is heard switch to "manual" cw mode (this is 
> nothing new) AND adjust speed to station answering your CQ.  Nothing 
> worse than an experienced cw op who won't bother to "talk" to a slow 
> sending station... nothing.  It just sends the inexperienced cwop to 
> digital and/or ssb where someone will likely answer no matter the "speed".
> 
> 2)   CW ops need to not be prejudiced against keyboard sent code, 
> especially at slower speeds or even someone using cw decoding sw.  I 
> think younger hams might actually do more if there wasn't such "stink" 
> put on ops using a keyboard and decoding sw.  Besides you do want to get 
> younger hams interested in ham radio and especially CW... right?  And as 
> time goes on those young or even old keyboard cw warriors may or may not 
> learn to send with a paddle or a key but you've got to get them 
> interested in CW first.  For some, it's an age vs. memory issue 
> especially hams who started late in life.
> 
> 3)  Now to beat up the computer geeks.  Someone could set up a twitter 
> or gab account and advertise it to the ham community at large via 
> reflectors and use the account specifically for reporting band openings. 
>   Then you could get notified on the ubiquitous smart phone and who 
> knows maybe there is or will be soon a rig remote control app for your 
> phone.
> 
> 4)  Digital mode software can be a bear to configure.  Clearly there 
> should be just one or two "tabs" max to get it working quickly and all 
> the other program integration configuration is icing on the cake. 
> Complexity in a basic "getting it working" configuration is not good. 
> And how about making the program/app window and fonts larger for crying 
> out loud... I don't see as well as I used to and with the proliferation 
> of large monitors these programs are a pain to even see anymore.  While 
> this may increase digital ops I also believe that at some point even 
> some digital ops will want to try and learn cw.
> 
> 5)  Finally, I've noticed that a lot of younger millenials like "old 
> school" stuff from LP 33 records to radio.  IF you can get them 
> interested in Ham radio (a shameless plug for expanded tech privileges) 
> there's a good chance they'll eventually want to learn cw one way or 
> another.  The point is, more hams equals more chances for someone to 
> answer your cw CQ.
> 
> I doubt any of that helps much except maybe paragraph 3, but there it 
> is... thanks for letting me give it a shot.
> 
> Scott
> AD5HS
> 
> On 6/1/2018 10:46 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> ..
> 
> > Yeah, I get the whole sub-noise-floor-and-not-automated-(wink)-QSO thing. 
> > But I’d like to figure out how those of us who enjoy the occasional 
> > gear-grinding manual-transmission contact can find each other on this brave 
> > new highway. Ideas?
> > 
> > Wayne
> > N6KR
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver

[Kjeld Holm]

Dear Bill,

Parts of the answer can be found at 
http://www.sherweng.com/table.html
search for Collins and you will get some 3 - 5 hits. 

Vy 73 de OZ1CCM, Kjeld  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: 3. juni 2018 15:17
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver

Discounting the digital capabilities such as memories, DSP, etc. and 
only considering actual signal reception: I have had S-lines in the past 
(dark dim past), so certainly am familier with them. However, as a point 
of curiosity, how does the S-line compare to the K3 (only interested in 
SSB). Basically, I am interested in how a top of the line analog 
receiver does compares to a K3(S)? The question comes from a QSO 
regarding the microprocessor noise of modern rigs covering and/or 
distorting received signals. Offline response might be good for this, as 
I am sure not many would be interested in the subject.

Thanks, Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Fan speed on meter?

[Bill Stravinsky via Elecraft]

 Jim
Thre only fan speed option on the LCD screen is the manual setting.  When the 
fans operate on auto there is no indication other than hearing the difference.
BillK3WJV

On Saturday, June 2, 2018, 10:27:14 PM EDT, Jim N7US  wrote: 
 
 
 Sorry, I forgot that I'm asking about the KPA1500.

 

73, Jim N7US

 

From: Jim N7US  
Sent: Saturday, June 2, 2018 21:21
To: Elecraft Reflector (elecraft@mailman.qth.net) 
Subject: Fan speed on meter?

 

Maybe I've overlooked it, but I don't see a meter display option that shows
the current fan speed.  Is there one?

 

73, Jim N7US

 

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 low output problems on15, 17, & 20 meters.

[Bill Hassan]

Just received SN 209 yesterday. Ordered late Oct 2017.

Removed the KPA500 and put the big boy into place, using the same KPA cable
to the K3.

The K3 controls the amp and the amp band switches the K3, like it should.

With between 30 and 40 watts drive I get full power out... except for the
following:

On 15 meters, I get less that 50w out. If I increase the drive pwr the 1500
goes into fault mode.
On 20m, I have to increase the drive to 50w to get 900w out, then the amp
goes into fault mode.
On 17m,  I have to increase the drive to 40w to get 150w from the amp, then
fault mode.

All other bands work fine,

The amp ATU is bypassed, and the results are similar into a dummy load or a
well matched antenna.

The ATU in the K3 in bypassed. I have not changed any K3 settings since I
pulled the KPA500 and plugged in the 1500.

Also, when I tried to reset the amp as per the manual, (Hold edit when
tapping the on button) nothing resets to factory defaults.
I tested this by lowering the display brightness and contrast, and after
the reset attempt, my dim settings did not change.

I also downloaded and reloaded the firmware ver 1.4 from Elecraft, and
reset it to factory defaults.

Any ideas? Is this another case of equipment superior to operator?

Bill Hassan, K1SM
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[Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver

[Bill]

Discounting the digital capabilities such as memories, DSP, etc. and 
only considering actual signal reception: I have had S-lines in the past 
(dark dim past), so certainly am familier with them. However, as a point 
of curiosity, how does the S-line compare to the K3 (only interested in 
SSB). Basically, I am interested in how a top of the line analog 
receiver does compares to a K3(S)? The question comes from a QSO 
regarding the microprocessor noise of modern rigs covering and/or 
distorting received signals. Offline response might be good for this, as 
I am sure not many would be interested in the subject.


Thanks, Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise

[Drew AF2Z]

There are liquid cooling systems available for CPUs and graphics cards, 
used by gamers and overclockers. Have no idea how this would compare to 
cooling a 1500 watt RF power amplifier but probably more analogous than 
an airplane engine.


73,
Drew
AF2Z


On 06/02/18 17:09, Dauer, Edward wrote:


I have been following this thread with interest because I have a KPA1500 on 
order, and I have very limited flexibility as to where the RF deck can go 
compared to where I will have to sit.

Don's video was very well done and a great help in understanding the realities.

I know zero about thermodynamics, and so wanted only to say thanks to everyone 
who is contributing ideas, and to make but two comments.

First, as to water cooling, I suspect it would be a huge weight penalty to get 
the cooling fluid everywhere it needs to be.  So far as I know there is only 
one reciprocating engine made for aircraft that has a water jacket.  (There 
might be others nowadays - I haven't owned an airplane for some years.)  The 
reasons others don't are reliability, safety, complexity, and - mostly - 
weight.  Second, isn't this largely a contest-operating issue?   I believe we 
are still governed by the rule that we may use only that amount of power 
necessary for the communication.I contest too, so I'll face the problem on 
those occasions, but not for casual ragchews.  I plan to make some graphs of 
when in terms of time, power, mode and band the fans on mine kick up a notch, 
and use it as a general operating guideline if I need to.

Ted, KN1CBR




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[Elecraft] 6m open NA to EU right now...

[John Harper]

from W1 to W4 only - so far...

John AE5X
https://ae5x.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise Video posted

[Peter Hall]

Don

Thanks for the video and the noise comparison with your other amplifiers.

I've had my KPA1500 (s/n 083) a few weeks and have enjoyed using it on the air, 
as well as subjecting it to IMD and other tests at a variety of power levels.  

Individual tolerance of acoustic noise varies and I put myself in the 
"sensitive" category.  When I first set up the amplifier and power supply, I 
realised that I was going to have to do something  more than simply stacking 
the units alongside my operating position: the PSU fan was just too annoying.  
Lacking any immediate "remote" options, I settled for putting the PSU on top of 
a small chest of drawers, located under my operating desk, which is made of 
thick, dense laminated particle board.  The room is carpeted, and rather dead 
acoustically.

I found that acoustically shielding the PSU helped enormously, while the chosen 
position still allows good airflow and access to the PSU.   I did also 
experiment with some heavy felt drapes pinned under a section of the desk but, 
when the airflow to the PSU was good enough, there was no worthwhile 
improvement over just positioning the PSU under, and slightly towards the back, 
of the desk.

As far as the RF deck fans go, I can live with the Level-1 speed but, in 
situations giving more than an occasional burst at Level 2,  I'd be looking to 
locate the unit further from my desk.  I do wear headphones from time to time, 
and that would certainly help with the acoustic noise issue, but it wouldn't be 
a long-term fix in my circumstances.  The upside is that Australian power 
levels, and my operating modes, mean that the RF deck fans do not routinely get 
beyond Level 1.  Even when doing the dummy load tests mentioned earlier, I 
paused the measurements if the fans hit Level 3.

I'd add that the KPA1500 is likely one of a very small number of amplifiers of 
its class suitable for desk installation in my small shack.  Notwithstanding my 
earlier comments about noise, I find it a nicely engineered product which meets 
my requirements for a high power, solid state gain block for use with a variety 
of exciters.  My other amplifier is a Collins 30L-1 (4x811A), which now sits 
permanently attached to an S-line station.  Fan noise was never a problem 
there, but 30L-1 cooling is less than generous, being helped by a single fan, 
the motor of which has aptly been described as a refugee from a record player.

As an aside, I'm looking forward to the KPA1500 firmware upgrade, having also 
identified the occasional SWR bar graph errant excursion as most likely a 
firmware bug (aka algorithmic anomaly).

73 to all,
Peter.

 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Don Butler
Sent: Saturday, 2 June 2018 2:01 PM
To: 'Richard Thorne' ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fan Noise Video posted

In response to N5ZC’s request  I just made this short video to provide a listen 
to the KPA1500's fans ... at least as they sound in my shack.  Follow this link 
to view: https://vimeo.com/273064144

In addition to the KPA1500 the video also includes footage of my Alpha 9500 and 
Icom PA1 … each running with their fans at maximum speed … to provide a simple 
rather crude comparison.

What do I think?   I think that fan speed 1 and fan speed 2 on the KPA1500 are 
probably comparable to the fans that are installed on the other amplifiers as 
far as sound and efficiency are concerned and likely provide a similar degree 
of cooling at those speeds.   And, I think that fan speeds 3, 4, and 5 (which 
are indeed noisy) provide the KPA1500 with enhanced cooling capability that is 
simply not available on other amplifiers.

Don, N5LZ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Thorne
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2018 5:55 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Fan Noise - YouTube ?

This fan noise issue has me concerned to the point that I’m considering 
cancelling my order.

While the amp won’t be on my operating desk, it will be on a rack next to my 
operating desk.  Remoting the amp is not an option. Quite frankly I have no 
interest in remoting the amp.

Is there anyone out there that has a KPA-1500 willing to post a YouTube video 
so we can hear the fan in action and judge the noise for ourselves?

From the research I’ve done it appears that if you want a solid state amp, 
regardless of make, you need to be prepared for fan noise.

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 6M proceedure

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Folks, we're drifting afar OT. Let's rest this thread in the interest of 
relieving email overload for our other list members.

(Its amazing how quickly these threads grow. Especially when I am out of town 
at the Ham Radio Friedrichshafen show in Germany!)

73,
Eric
Moderator etc.
elecraft.com
_..._



> On Jun 2, 2018, at 10:15 PM, EricJ  wrote:
> 
> I traded a 75A2 for a new 6m Gooney III in 1960. I worked nothing but 6m for 
> the next two years until I went in the Army in 1962.
> 
> Spent many a night on SF's Twin Peaks with that radio. One of my happiest 
> times in ham radio. I'm pretty sure 50.125 was calling frequency then too. 
> The band was all AM. CW was rare. SSB was mostly non-existent.
> 
> Eric
> 
> 
>> On 6/2/2018 12:46 PM, Bob wrote:
>> And the yellow 6 meter "Gooney box" borrowed from CD.
>> 
>> Well still not wealthy but maybe I should upgrade and put together the 
>> Johnson 6N2 new in the box kit that rests in the basement.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Bob
>> K2TK  ex KN2TKR (1956) and K2TKR
>> 
>>> On 6/2/2018 3:10 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>>> Yep, that Heath Sixer was quite a rig.  If you were wealthy, you could move 
>>> up to a Johnson 6N2. [:-)
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> 
>>> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>>> Sparks NV DM09dn
>>> Washoe County
>>> 
 On 6/2/2018 10:01 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
 I have been on 6M since 1956.  Ahhh those were the days.
 Mel, K6KBE
 
>>> 
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: 6M proceedure

[Edward R Cole]

Fred,

I had both.  Bought sixer in 1965 and installed it with vibrator PS 
in my 65 Mustang with a halo bumper-mounted.  A couple  years later 
bought the 6N2 and ran it at 150w plate-modulated AM (using PS and 
modulator of a DX100).  Fun years operating from Mich.


Re: 50.125, sure its the calling frequency so I call there in an 
opening, usually moving up to 50.130 or 50.140, once the pack 
realizes I am in AK.
But you are more likely to work me on 50.200+ on 6m-eme (no waiting 
for propagation).  Actively working on the new dual 7-element LFA 
yagi array which may be  getting installed in a week or two.  I can 
run 1000w driven by my K3+KXPA100 at 11w.

http://www.kl7uw.com/6m.htm

73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 12:10:48 -0700
From: Fred Jensen 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: 6M proceedure
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Yep, that Heath Sixer was quite a rig.? If you were wealthy, you could
move up to a Johnson 6N2. [:-)


73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
Dubus-NA Business mail:
  dubus...@gmail.com 


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