Re: [Elecraft] K3 problem "ERR DLL"

[Ryszard Tymkiewicz]

Bill..the message was on K3 screen and not any PC was connected...

   73 Rys

W dniu 2020-01-05 o 00:37, Nr4c pisze:

ZDLL error sounds more like a Windows thing then a radio error.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On Jan 4, 2020, at 2:04 PM, Ryszard Tymkiewicz  wrote:

I have been using K3 for MANY years and the first time I got a message "ERROR 
DLL" ..there was a high noise level and I was not able to tune to stations. It was 
in my second QTH..when I got back home seems everything is OK. I don't know if it is a 
problem with contacts? If so which ones I should clean?
  73 Rys
 SP5EWY
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Jim Brown]

On 1/4/2020 8:52 PM, Mark Goldberg wrote:

My Morningstar PWM controller has a bang bang mode that only switches once
a second or so. In the normal mode it is noisy. You give up the extra
efficiency from an MPPT charger, but it is much cheaper.


That can be fine if you don't need to operate while charging.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kevinr]

Good Evening,

   The sun broke through the clouds for a few minutes this week. 
However, the sunspots it's been hosting lately are too small for me to 
see.  Have to time the breaks in the clouds and walls of rain better.  
On Christmas day we got a few new sunspots to break the long dry spell.  
219 spotless days for 2019.  Since then a few more have popped up.  All 
of them have been from cycle 25.  Things may be looking up for the new year.


   I read a recipe a few days back which has stuck in my head.  I am 
going to make an attempt at it and see how my version turns out.  Now to 
find my rolling pin and enough space to use it.


https://www.saveur.com/lasagna-bread-italian-sicilian-scaccia-recipe/


Please join us tomorrow on:

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday  (2 PM PST Sunday)
 7047 kHz at z Monday  (4 PM PST Sunday)

73,

   Kevin. KD5ONS

-


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[Elecraft] Unable to save a Configuration on a KX3

[Jonathan Morrison]

I have had my KX3 (and my ticket) for a year or so now, but I am finally
learning how to use it.  I did a factory reset, uploaded the latest
firmware via KX3Utility on ubuntu (sudo) and then tried to save the kx3
configuration but I receive the following error messages:

Activity Log: Configuration was not saved - Error reading EEPROM Data.
Error Message: *Unable to read EEPROM address 000.000

What I am doing wrong?

Sincerely,

Jonathan
KI7VZD
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Mark Goldberg]

My Morningstar PWM controller has a bang bang mode that only switches once
a second or so. In the normal mode it is noisy. You give up the extra
efficiency from an MPPT charger, but it is much cheaper.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 8:45 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> What can you tell us about RF noise from the Morningstar charge
> regulators when the wiring between panels, regulator, and battery is
> very close to antennas? I'd be willing to bet it varies widely from one
> regulator family to another.
>
> Another critical point -- current drawn from the panels and fed to the
> battery is pulsed DC, so should be viewed DC 100% modulated by DC square
> waves. ALL wiring in the charge path must be twisted pair to minimize
> radiation from it to nearby antennas.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> On 1/4/2020 3:11 PM, n6...@outlook.com wrote:
> > Reasonably priced is up to you Wayne but for proven and reliable I
> recommend products from. At my place of
> work we have several of their MPPT and PWM controllers in service, some as
> much as 10 years now. I use their Prostar PWM controller on my personal
> standalone system with a 100 watt panel and a modest lead acid battery. In
> my experience their more compact Sunsaver products work well too and both
> are available on Amazon.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Jim Brown]

What can you tell us about RF noise from the Morningstar charge 
regulators when the wiring between panels, regulator, and battery is 
very close to antennas? I'd be willing to bet it varies widely from one 
regulator family to another.


Another critical point -- current drawn from the panels and fed to the 
battery is pulsed DC, so should be viewed DC 100% modulated by DC square 
waves. ALL wiring in the charge path must be twisted pair to minimize 
radiation from it to nearby antennas.


73, Jim K9YC

On 1/4/2020 3:11 PM, n6...@outlook.com wrote:

Reasonably priced is up to you Wayne but for proven and reliable I recommend products 
from. At my place of work we have several of 
their MPPT and PWM controllers in service, some as much as 10 years now. I use their 
Prostar PWM controller on my personal standalone system with a 100 watt panel and a 
modest lead acid battery. In my experience their more compact Sunsaver products work 
well too and both are available on Amazon.


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Q7 and Q8 Short to Ground

[Mark Yergin]

Don - The PA’s have never seen any power nor have I tried to transmit yet.
In the morning I’m going to take all the panels and boards off the RF board
and see if I still pass all the resistance checks.  I don’t understand how
I can pass the resistance check and then see this behavior when the boards
and panels are installed.

Mark W8EWH

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 10:28 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Mark,
>
> The most usual cause of a Q7/Q8 short to ground is that the thermal
> insulators are not installed properly.
> However, your statement that you see the same with the heatsink off
> indicates that the Q7 or Q8 transistors have been damaged by a collector
> to emitter short.  If the K2 was subjected to a transmit without the
> heatsink installed, that could be reason for the demise of Q7/Q8
> transistors.
>
> Make certain that the PA mounting hardware is installed correctly,
> especially the shoulder washers.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/4/2020 9:11 PM, Mark Yergin wrote:
> > I'm in the final stages of my K2 build, but having a problem with Q7 and
> Q8
> > shorting to ground.  When I did my Resistance Checks on pg 74, I had
> 3.66K
> > ohms to ground at the Q7 collector.  So that was fine.  But when I put
> all
> > the boards and panels on, then attached Q7 and Q8 to the heat sink, I see
> > about 135 ohms between the Q7 and Q8 collectors and ground.  I assume
> > that's unacceptable.  I see the same with the heat sink off.
> Suggestions?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Jim Brown]

On 1/4/2020 2:24 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but I'd 
prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable, and 
reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?


I and many of my friends are using LiFePO4 batteries from Bioenne Power 
with a Genasun charge regulator. Most high efficiency charge regulators 
are mucho noisy, but this one is not. The two k3s on my operating desk 
run on a 100Ah battery, which is float charged by a spare Thinkpad PSU. 
It's rated for 20V @ 4.5A, and the charge regulator, which is an MPPT 
type, down-converts it to the 14.5V or so that the battery wants to see.


This is enough to more than keep up with SO2R when the rigs are driving 
a KPA1500 and an 87A, or a pair of 87As. Under load, the K3 voltmeter 
stays above about 13.4V.


I own two 20Ah batteries for portable work; W6GJB owns a much smaller 
one (4Ah) that he uses to power a KX3 for WSPR antenna testing. Petr, 
AG6EE, owns a 50Ah battery that runs his KX3/KXPA100 for mountaintop VHF 
work, and a 48V that runs a 6M kW amp sold by M2. I think the 48V 
battery is 50 or 100 Ah. The weekend after Christmas, Petr was set up in 
this National Monument https://www.nps.gov/orpi/planyourvisit/maps.htm 
to work Meteor Scatter from this very rare grid along the US/Mexico 
border. No generators are permitted, hence the big battery for the power 
amp.


All of these batteries are Bioenne Power with LiFePO4 chemistry with 
built-in circuitry to equalize the cells. They are very good people to 
work with.


They also sell a much cheaper and simpler hysteresis charger for use 
with their batteries.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Q7 and Q8 Short to Ground

[Don Wilhelm]

Mark,

The most usual cause of a Q7/Q8 short to ground is that the thermal 
insulators are not installed properly.
However, your statement that you see the same with the heatsink off 
indicates that the Q7 or Q8 transistors have been damaged by a collector 
to emitter short.  If the K2 was subjected to a transmit without the 
heatsink installed, that could be reason for the demise of Q7/Q8 
transistors.


Make certain that the PA mounting hardware is installed correctly, 
especially the shoulder washers.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 9:11 PM, Mark Yergin wrote:

I'm in the final stages of my K2 build, but having a problem with Q7 and Q8
shorting to ground.  When I did my Resistance Checks on pg 74, I had 3.66K
ohms to ground at the Q7 collector.  So that was fine.  But when I put all
the boards and panels on, then attached Q7 and Q8 to the heat sink, I see
about 135 ohms between the Q7 and Q8 collectors and ground.  I assume
that's unacceptable.  I see the same with the heat sink off.  Suggestions?

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Paul Van Dyke]

Hi Wayne

From many Dxpeditions in the Caribbean with a 100watt panel  ... here is my
pick

https://www.buddipole.com/powermini.html
and the Powerfilm Solar has checked it and they say it's one of the
cleanest they have seen
73s
Paul KB9AVO

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020, 8:23 PM Grant Youngman  wrote:

> I second the GENASUN.  And they have the advantage of being RF dead quiet.
>
> Grant NQ5T
>
> > On Jan 4, 2020, at 6:48 PM, Igor Sokolov  wrote:
> >
> > For several years I have been using 5.5 AH  (for KX3) or 25 AH (for K3)
> LiFePo4 batteries, charging them with 1 or 2 60W portable folding solar
> panels using GENASUN MPPT rf quiet controller. This controller is highly
> recommended.
> >
> > In reality a pair of the above panels  were squeezing maximum of 5.5 A.
> >
> > 73, Igor UA9CDC
> >
> > 05.01.2020 3:24, Wayne Burdick пишет:
> >> I finally installed a single 50 W, 12 V solar panel on the roof for
> light backup purposes -- phone/pad/laptop/flashlight charging,
> natural-power use of the KX2/KX3, etc. Connecting the panel directly to
> automotive-style USB chargers works great when the sun is shining.
> >>
> >> My 15 year old thinks it's cool. He wants me to turn the mains breaker
> off for a whole day so we can get the full off-grid experience :)
> >>
> >> To facilitate that more rigorous purpose, I'd like to add a modest
> battery pack, say 10 to 20 AH, that is charged by the PV panel without
> intervention. The charger has to be compatible with simultaneous
> charge/discharge, i.e. we may need charge USB devices at the same time the
> PV panel is charging the battery. The battery voltage should be 11 to 12 V
> minimum after any controller drops so it'll work with the radios.
> >>
> >> I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but
> I'd prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable,
> and reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?
> >>
> >> tnx
> >>
> >> Wayne
> >> N6KR
> >>
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Re: [Elecraft] SKCC K3Y event

[na5n]

Jan writes:


The month-long 14th Annual K3Y event is going-on on CW
Lot of fun here with the KX3 ~ PX3 ~ and sometimes KXPA100
Check it @  https://www.skccgroup.com/


I've been playing with the SKCC K3Y with my KX2, just to see how many of  
the stations/call areas I can work QRP and a dipole or vertical.  Fun  
breaking through some of the pileups.  So far have 12 worked between 20 and  
40M, including K3Y/KH6.  Of course, now waiting for the RTTY contest to end  
to get back to business.


Thanks for the reminder, Jan.
Rules here: https://www.skccgroup.com/k3y/k3y.php

72, Paul NA5N (SKCC #10073T)
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[Elecraft] K2 Q7 and Q8 Short to Ground

[Mark Yergin]

I'm in the final stages of my K2 build, but having a problem with Q7 and Q8
shorting to ground.  When I did my Resistance Checks on pg 74, I had 3.66K
ohms to ground at the Q7 collector.  So that was fine.  But when I put all
the boards and panels on, then attached Q7 and Q8 to the heat sink, I see
about 135 ohms between the Q7 and Q8 collectors and ground.  I assume
that's unacceptable.  I see the same with the heat sink off.  Suggestions?

Mark W8EWH
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Australian fires

[Kev Schache]

Hi Wayne,

i am certain that I am speaking on behalf of all Australians, both 
customers and others, when I say that your thoughts and empathy, both 
personal and from Elecraft, are much appreciated at this seriously 
distressing time. As an 85 year old first licenced in 1960, I have lived 
and in some cases fought through many great droughts and bushfires 
causing huge losses, but none of this magnitude. Your encouraging 
thoughts assist us in staying focused in looking to the future and 
rebuilding.


May your new year be filled with encouraging words likewise

73,

Kev   VK5KS   K2/100, KX3, PX3


On 03-Jan-20 2:25 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Our thoughts go out to our Australian customers and their families, as well as 
the thousands of other Australians affected by wildfires.

California, too, has seen record droughts and wildfires in recent years, so we 
can empathize. But the number of fires in VK as well as their wide geographical 
impact appears to dwarf ours.

Wishing you better luck in the new year--

73,
Wayne
N6KR



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[Elecraft] Battery Charger for Small Solar Power Syatem

[Wilson Lamb]

Start simple...car battery, or borrow from your lawn tractor.
Small charge controller selected for min RFI.
If the kid can concentrate on a job, salvage 18650 cells from old laptop 
batteries and build packs of whatever size you need.
"Dead laptop batteries usually have just a couple of bad cells and some shops 
will give/sell them cheap.
Ebay has the plastic hardware for assembling packs without duct tape.
Get single cell chargers from ebay for initial conditioning.
There's a lot of potential learning here!
73,
Wilson
W4BOH
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[Elecraft] SKCC K3Y event

[Jan]

The month-long 14th Annual K3Y event is going-on on CW

Lot of fun here with the KX3 ~ PX3 ~ and sometimes KXPA100

Check it @  https://www.skccgroup.com/

Happy New Year ~ ALL ~

Regards, Jan K1ND  ~ 65+ years of hamming ~

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Grant Youngman]

I second the GENASUN.  And they have the advantage of being RF dead quiet.

Grant NQ5T

> On Jan 4, 2020, at 6:48 PM, Igor Sokolov  wrote:
> 
> For several years I have been using 5.5 AH  (for KX3) or 25 AH (for K3) 
> LiFePo4 batteries, charging them with 1 or 2 60W portable folding solar 
> panels using GENASUN MPPT rf quiet controller. This controller is highly 
> recommended.
> 
> In reality a pair of the above panels  were squeezing maximum of 5.5 A.
> 
> 73, Igor UA9CDC
> 
> 05.01.2020 3:24, Wayne Burdick пишет:
>> I finally installed a single 50 W, 12 V solar panel on the roof for light 
>> backup purposes -- phone/pad/laptop/flashlight charging, natural-power use 
>> of the KX2/KX3, etc. Connecting the panel directly to automotive-style USB 
>> chargers works great when the sun is shining.
>> 
>> My 15 year old thinks it's cool. He wants me to turn the mains breaker off 
>> for a whole day so we can get the full off-grid experience :)
>> 
>> To facilitate that more rigorous purpose, I'd like to add a modest battery 
>> pack, say 10 to 20 AH, that is charged by the PV panel without intervention. 
>> The charger has to be compatible with simultaneous charge/discharge, i.e. we 
>> may need charge USB devices at the same time the PV panel is charging the 
>> battery. The battery voltage should be 11 to 12 V minimum after any 
>> controller drops so it'll work with the radios.
>> 
>> I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but I'd 
>> prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable, and 
>> reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?
>> 
>> tnx
>> 
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Australian fires

[VK1OO, Mike Walkington]

Hi Wayne

Thanks for thinking of us. A horrendous situation and at the worst possible
time with so many people on their summer holidays in the most fire prone
areas. We have a team of US / Canadian firefighters here that came over
before Christmas to bring their expertise to the fight. And Aussies were in
California and Canada during your fire season. Wonderful to see how we can
help each other in trying times.

Best wishes
Mike
VK1OO





-


Cheers
Mike
VK1OO (ex AC7MZ, VK1KCK)
K2: 2599
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problem "ERR DLL"

[Don Wilhelm]

Rys,

The first thing to try are the steps indicated in the K3 manual listing 
of errors.


If those do not help, and this is an older K3, try removing the front 
panel assembly (the KDVR3 manual page 7 has good instructions for doing 
that).  If the pins on the front panel connector are tin plated, they 
should be replaced with the gold pins (Elecraft has a kit).  In any 
case, removing the front panel assembly and simply replacing it will 
wipe oxidation from the pins and can restore proper operation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 2:02 PM, Ryszard Tymkiewicz wrote:
I have been using K3 for MANY years and the first time I got a message 
"ERROR DLL" ..there was a high noise level and I was not able to tune to 
stations. It was in my second QTH..when I got back home seems everything 
is OK. I don't know if it is a problem with contacts? If so which ones I 
should clean?

                                  73 Rys
     SP5EWY

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 parts to have 'on hand' ?

[Don Wilhelm]

Brian,

I believe I can speak with authority having repaired over 1000 K2s in 
the last 15 years.


The one item that fails frequently in the K2 is the headphone jack, so I 
would advise having a spare on hand.


Maybe a set of K2 PA transistors (for the base K2, not the KPA100).  If 
the diodes in the KPA100 or KAT2 are hit by static and the power control 
goes to maximum, the base K2 PA transistors will fail if that condition 
is not recognized and operation is not stopped until the condition is 
corrected.


If the K2 is old, yes the AF Gain and other potentiometers can become 
'scratchy', and since they are sealed, there is no other cure but 
replacement.  If the K2 serial number is less than 3000, make sure the 
Alternate AF Gain Wiring Mod has been installed (and replace the AF Gain 
pot at the same time).


A few 1N5711 diodes can be handy especially if you are not diligent 
about disconnecting the antenna when not in use and static from the 
antenna feedline takes out the diodes in the wattmeter (KPA100, KAT2 or 
KAT100).  For those who do disconnect the feedline(s), be certain to 
short between the feedline center conductor and the shell to discharge 
any accumulated static charge before connecting it to the K2 ANT connector.


Other than that list, I can't think of any K2 part that fails 
frequently.  As Murphy says, if you have the part on hand, it will not 
fail!  Other failures involving ICs and transistors are not common. 
However, if you have an older KPA100 (with red toroid cores at L15 and 
L16), I advise you to install the KPA100UPKT mod and also the shield kit 
KPA100SHLDKT.


If you do not have the current K2 firmware 2.04 MCU 1.09 IOC, you might 
want to upgrade it and save the old firmware ICs in case of a 
catastrophe, but that is not a frequent failure either.  Serial numbers 
below 3000 do require wiring changes for the sidetone source when 
upgrading to the 2.04 MCU firmware.  If the KIO2 or the KPA100 has been 
installed, those wiring changes have already been installed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 3:25 PM, Brian wrote:

I saw a message on 'another list' the other day which was a reply to someone who was 
thinking about getting a K2 kit while they could. The reply said... "inferior 
parts.. get spare variable resistors etc."   I am assuming he means 
potentiometers...
Anyhow, I'd not seen or heard much about this 'you gotta replace this stuff in 
a year' kind of view.
Since I DO have a couple K2 rigs... would I be advised to get a few critical 
parts to take them into the next decade or two? They probably have more than a 
decade on them already.
I must admit that in the VERY early days I asked Eric how long we might expect 
the microprocessors to last? Meh, never been an issue nor has anything else in 
them, for me at least, luckily perhaps. Or the norm

I realise nothing 'lasts forever' but since almost every thing I have is 
getting on... and some are pushing MY age from late 50's and early 60's circa 
some things can last a long time.
In any case, any wisdom on what to get on the shelf and have at hand while it 
is possible?... or don't worry and if the time comes just say a fond farewell? 
Or will I not care if and when a K4 finally landed here sometime (not thinking 
about thatyet).

Having Winter fun on CW here...hope you are too.
Brian VE3VAW

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Igor Sokolov]

For several years I have been using 5.5 AH  (for KX3) or 25 AH (for K3) 
LiFePo4 batteries, charging them with 1 or 2 60W portable folding solar 
panels using GENASUN MPPT rf quiet controller. This controller is highly 
recommended.


In reality a pair of the above panels  were squeezing maximum of 5.5 A.

73, Igor UA9CDC

05.01.2020 3:24, Wayne Burdick пишет:

I finally installed a single 50 W, 12 V solar panel on the roof for light 
backup purposes -- phone/pad/laptop/flashlight charging, natural-power use of 
the KX2/KX3, etc. Connecting the panel directly to automotive-style USB 
chargers works great when the sun is shining.

My 15 year old thinks it's cool. He wants me to turn the mains breaker off for 
a whole day so we can get the full off-grid experience :)

To facilitate that more rigorous purpose, I'd like to add a modest battery 
pack, say 10 to 20 AH, that is charged by the PV panel without intervention. 
The charger has to be compatible with simultaneous charge/discharge, i.e. we 
may need charge USB devices at the same time the PV panel is charging the 
battery. The battery voltage should be 11 to 12 V minimum after any controller 
drops so it'll work with the radios.

I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but I'd 
prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable, and 
reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?

tnx

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 problem "ERR DLL"

[Nr4c]

ZDLL error sounds more like a Windows thing then a radio error. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 4, 2020, at 2:04 PM, Ryszard Tymkiewicz  wrote:
> 
> I have been using K3 for MANY years and the first time I got a message 
> "ERROR DLL" ..there was a high noise level and I was not able to tune to 
> stations. It was in my second QTH..when I got back home seems everything is 
> OK. I don't know if it is a problem with contacts? If so which ones I should 
> clean?
>  73 Rys
> SP5EWY
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[n6...@outlook.com]

Uh boy, this thread is bound to hit the max replies bell real quick!

Reasonably priced is up to you Wayne but for proven and reliable I recommend 
products from . At my place of work we have 
several of their MPPT and PWM controllers in service, some as much as 10 years 
now. I use their Prostar PWM controller on my personal standalone system with a 
100 watt panel and a modest lead acid battery. In my experience their more 
compact Sunsaver products work well too and both are available on Amazon.

I can't stress this enough - match your controller to your chosen battery 
chemistry as best you can. There are many controllers available today that 
support lithium, LiFePO4, NiMH, etc. Plenty of info is available online 
including sites like  , 
 , 
 , 
  just to name a few.

73,
Gary, N6LRV






From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Wayne Burdick 
Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2020 2:24 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar 
panel

I finally installed a single 50 W, 12 V solar panel on the roof for light 
backup purposes -- phone/pad/laptop/flashlight charging, natural-power use of 
the KX2/KX3, etc. Connecting the panel directly to automotive-style USB 
chargers works great when the sun is shining.

My 15 year old thinks it's cool. He wants me to turn the mains breaker off for 
a whole day so we can get the full off-grid experience :)

To facilitate that more rigorous purpose, I'd like to add a modest battery 
pack, say 10 to 20 AH, that is charged by the PV panel without intervention. 
The charger has to be compatible with simultaneous charge/discharge, i.e. we 
may need charge USB devices at the same time the PV panel is charging the 
battery. The battery voltage should be 11 to 12 V minimum after any controller 
drops so it'll work with the radios.

I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but I'd 
prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable, and 
reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?

tnx

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 parts to have 'on hand' ?

[Fred Jensen]

My K2 is 10+ years old and only one part has failed:  One of the main 
CPU chips failed very early [infant mortality?].  The front headphone 
jack is finally showing signs of possible problems.  That's it.  Law of 
Quantum Predestination -- "Buying a spare before the original fails 
automatically guarantees that the original will never fail."  Something 
about a dead-ish/live-ish cat in a box or something like that


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 1/4/2020 12:25 PM, Brian wrote:

I saw a message on 'another list' the other day which was a reply to someone who was 
thinking about getting a K2 kit while they could. The reply said... "inferior 
parts.. get spare variable resistors etc."   I am assuming he means 
potentiometers...
Anyhow, I'd not seen or heard much about this 'you gotta replace this stuff in 
a year' kind of view.
Since I DO have a couple K2 rigs... would I be advised to get a few critical 
parts to take them into the next decade or two? They probably have more than a 
decade on them already.
I must admit that in the VERY early days I asked Eric how long we might expect 
the microprocessors to last? Meh, never been an issue nor has anything else in 
them, for me at least, luckily perhaps. Or the norm

I realise nothing 'lasts forever' but since almost every thing I have is 
getting on... and some are pushing MY age from late 50's and early 60's circa 
some things can last a long time.
In any case, any wisdom on what to get on the shelf and have at hand while it 
is possible?... or don't worry and if the time comes just say a fond farewell? 
Or will I not care if and when a K4 finally landed here sometime (not thinking 
about thatyet).

Having Winter fun on CW here...hope you are too.
Brian VE3VAW



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Mark Goldberg]

Contact my friend Harry at h.niedec...@wirlnet.com (
https://squareup.com/store/wirlnet-com). He builds larger systems, but may
have a smaller one too. In any case, he knows the lay of the land and what
is good and what is not. Tell him I sent you.

I use 12V LiFePO4s which keep the voltage up (>12V) much longer than Lead
Acid and weigh less. I've got them in sizes from 3 Ah for backpacking with
my KX3 to 400 Ah in our RV running my KX3 and a big inverter for my KPA500.
Morningstar has a bang bang mode on some solar controllers that don't
output much RFI.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 3:24 PM Wayne Burdick  wrote:

> I finally installed a single 50 W, 12 V solar panel on the roof for light
> backup purposes -- phone/pad/laptop/flashlight charging, natural-power use
> of the KX2/KX3, etc. Connecting the panel directly to automotive-style USB
> chargers works great when the sun is shining.
>
> My 15 year old thinks it's cool. He wants me to turn the mains breaker off
> for a whole day so we can get the full off-grid experience :)
>
> To facilitate that more rigorous purpose, I'd like to add a modest battery
> pack, say 10 to 20 AH, that is charged by the PV panel without
> intervention. The charger has to be compatible with simultaneous
> charge/discharge, i.e. we may need charge USB devices at the same time the
> PV panel is charging the battery. The battery voltage should be 11 to 12 V
> minimum after any controller drops so it'll work with the radios.
>
> I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but I'd
> prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable, and
> reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?
>
> tnx
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Logan R Zintsmaster]

I think a West Mountain Epic Powergate will meet your needs. 

Logan, KE7AZ 
Entropy is winning. 

> On Jan 4, 2020, at 3:25 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> I finally installed a single 50 W, 12 V solar panel on the roof for light 
> backup purposes -- phone/pad/laptop/flashlight charging, natural-power use of 
> the KX2/KX3, etc. Connecting the panel directly to automotive-style USB 
> chargers works great when the sun is shining. 
> 
> My 15 year old thinks it's cool. He wants me to turn the mains breaker off 
> for a whole day so we can get the full off-grid experience :)
> 
> To facilitate that more rigorous purpose, I'd like to add a modest battery 
> pack, say 10 to 20 AH, that is charged by the PV panel without intervention. 
> The charger has to be compatible with simultaneous charge/discharge, i.e. we 
> may need charge USB devices at the same time the PV panel is charging the 
> battery. The battery voltage should be 11 to 12 V minimum after any 
> controller drops so it'll work with the radios.
> 
> I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but I'd 
> prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable, and 
> reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?
> 
> tnx
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
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[Elecraft] OT: Battery and charger recommendations for 50 watt solar panel

[Wayne Burdick]

I finally installed a single 50 W, 12 V solar panel on the roof for light 
backup purposes -- phone/pad/laptop/flashlight charging, natural-power use of 
the KX2/KX3, etc. Connecting the panel directly to automotive-style USB 
chargers works great when the sun is shining. 

My 15 year old thinks it's cool. He wants me to turn the mains breaker off for 
a whole day so we can get the full off-grid experience :)

To facilitate that more rigorous purpose, I'd like to add a modest battery 
pack, say 10 to 20 AH, that is charged by the PV panel without intervention. 
The charger has to be compatible with simultaneous charge/discharge, i.e. we 
may need charge USB devices at the same time the PV panel is charging the 
battery. The battery voltage should be 11 to 12 V minimum after any controller 
drops so it'll work with the radios.

I could cobble something together from several different vendors, but I'd 
prefer to purchase system components that are already proven, reliable, and 
reasonable in cost. Any recommendations?

tnx

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 parts to have 'on hand' ?

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’ve never failed to resurrect a HealthKit potentiometer with a tiny squirt of 
Caig DeOxit D5. I’ve not had trouble with my K2.
The parts you stock, will not be the parts that fail...some kind of natural law.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 4, 2020, at 2:25 PM, Brian  wrote:
> 
> I saw a message on 'another list' the other day which was a reply to someone 
> who was thinking about getting a K2 kit while they could. The reply said... 
> "inferior parts.. get spare variable resistors etc."   I am assuming he 
> means potentiometers...
> Anyhow, I'd not seen or heard much about this 'you gotta replace this stuff 
> in a year' kind of view.
> Since I DO have a couple K2 rigs... would I be advised to get a few critical 
> parts to take them into the next decade or two? They probably have more than 
> a decade on them already.
> I must admit that in the VERY early days I asked Eric how long we might 
> expect the microprocessors to last? Meh, never been an issue nor has anything 
> else in them, for me at least, luckily perhaps. Or the norm
> 
> I realise nothing 'lasts forever' but since almost every thing I have is 
> getting on... and some are pushing MY age from late 50's and early 60's circa 
> some things can last a long time.
> In any case, any wisdom on what to get on the shelf and have at hand while it 
> is possible?... or don't worry and if the time comes just say a fond 
> farewell? Or will I not care if and when a K4 finally landed here sometime 
> (not thinking about thatyet).
> 
> Having Winter fun on CW here...hope you are too.
> Brian VE3VAW
> 
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[Elecraft] K2 parts to have 'on hand' ?

[Brian]

I saw a message on 'another list' the other day which was a reply to someone 
who was thinking about getting a K2 kit while they could. The reply said... 
"inferior parts.. get spare variable resistors etc."   I am assuming he 
means potentiometers...
Anyhow, I'd not seen or heard much about this 'you gotta replace this stuff in 
a year' kind of view.
Since I DO have a couple K2 rigs... would I be advised to get a few critical 
parts to take them into the next decade or two? They probably have more than a 
decade on them already.
I must admit that in the VERY early days I asked Eric how long we might expect 
the microprocessors to last? Meh, never been an issue nor has anything else in 
them, for me at least, luckily perhaps. Or the norm

I realise nothing 'lasts forever' but since almost every thing I have is 
getting on... and some are pushing MY age from late 50's and early 60's circa 
some things can last a long time.
In any case, any wisdom on what to get on the shelf and have at hand while it 
is possible?... or don't worry and if the time comes just say a fond farewell? 
Or will I not care if and when a K4 finally landed here sometime (not thinking 
about thatyet).

Having Winter fun on CW here...hope you are too.
Brian VE3VAW

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[Elecraft] K3 problem "ERR DLL"

[Ryszard Tymkiewicz]

I have been using K3 for MANY years and the first time I got a message 
"ERROR DLL" ..there was a high noise level and I was not able to tune to 
stations. It was in my second QTH..when I got back home seems everything 
is OK. I don't know if it is a problem with contacts? If so which ones I 
should clean?

                                 73 Rys
    SP5EWY
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jonathan,

That is a great discovery. Yes, if U5 was getting hot it would be 
dragging down the 5 volt supply and causing U1 to not function.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 12:18 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Don,

Z1 is resonating away, but in the course of verifying that, I noticed
that the U5 op-amp was getting hot to the touch.  I replaced it, and
now all is working normally.  Perhaps it was loading down the 5V
supply excessively.

I'm guessing that U5 made the ultimate sacrifice in the same incident
that zapped D1 and D2 some years ago.  Apparently this has happened
before, because I see that I had installed an 8-pin DIP socket for it
:)

Thanks again for your help!

73
Jonathan K1RFD




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD]

Don,

Z1 is resonating away, but in the course of verifying that, I noticed
that the U5 op-amp was getting hot to the touch.  I replaced it, and
now all is working normally.  Perhaps it was loading down the 5V
supply excessively.

I'm guessing that U5 made the ultimate sacrifice in the same incident
that zapped D1 and D2 some years ago.  Apparently this has happened
before, because I see that I had installed an 8-pin DIP socket for it
:)

Thanks again for your help!

73
Jonathan K1RFD

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 11:19 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
> Jonathan,
>
> Yes, replacing KAT100 U1 would be the prudent first step.  But if you
> can, first determine if the resonator Z1 is providing clock pulses to U1
> pins 13 and 14.  Without those clock pulses, U1 will not be functional.
>
> If you have a local ham who also has a KAT100, see if you can swap U1
> from his KAT100 to see if U1 is the problem in yours.
>
> If you do not have a local who is willing to swap, then your best bet is
> to order both the firmware and the resonator from Elecraft.
>
> OTOH, if you have a 4 MHz resonator on hand, try replacing Z1 first to
> see if it comes back to life.  The resonator is inexpensive, but the
> firmware IC is costly.
>
> When the firmware is working, it will be recognized by the K2,
> regardless of any other problems that may be present with the KAT100
> operation.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/4/2020 10:49 AM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:
> > Thanks Don.
> >
> > I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
> > after re-seating it a couple of times.
> >
> > Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
> > the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
> > manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. It is "high" at all other
> > times. I checked this all the way to pin 40 of U1.
> >
> > Should I conclude that the next step would be to replace U1?
> >
> >
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net 12-15-2019

[Eric Lanzl]

Here is the log from the SSB net of 12-15-2019. Sorry it is a bit late but I 
was out of town during Christmas and did not get to post it until now. Thanks 
for everyone who participated in the net during 2019. Again, many thanks to the 
relay stations who are able to pick up the stations I am not able to hear. It 
is great to have several stations around the country to help everyone who wants 
to check in be able to be heard. All the best to everyone in 2020. It will be 
interesting to see how the new K4 will be this year. 


Elecraft SSB Net 12-15-2019

WB9JNZ Eric  IL  K3  4017    Net Control

NC0JW   Jim  CO KX3        1356   Relay station

W1NGA  Al CO K3    5765

K8NU/4  Carl  OH TS590via KF4LZA

N7BDL    Terry    AZK3S        10373

AE1E   Ken  NM   K3S       11611

NS7P  Phil  OR  K3        1826

ZL1PWD Peter   NZ   K3         139

KC9JXJ  Hi IL Kenwood 590 SG

KO5V  Jim  NM  K2/100       7255

W2RWA  Dick    NY   KX3        2603

K6VWE   Stan    MIK3      650

N4NRW  Roger  SC   K3           1318   Relay station

W4DML   Doug   TN  K3       6433

KB1TCD Jose   ME  KX3      7735

KE5POM Mack  NM  Yaesu ft 101f

AE1P  Neal NH K3  2979

K4HGG   Dale GAK3S       11883
AB9EW   Andy    IL   Icom 7300

73.s Eric WB9JNZ

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jonathan,

Yes, replacing KAT100 U1 would be the prudent first step.  But if you 
can, first determine if the resonator Z1 is providing clock pulses to U1 
pins 13 and 14.  Without those clock pulses, U1 will not be functional.


If you have a local ham who also has a KAT100, see if you can swap U1 
from his KAT100 to see if U1 is the problem in yours.


If you do not have a local who is willing to swap, then your best bet is 
to order both the firmware and the resonator from Elecraft.


OTOH, if you have a 4 MHz resonator on hand, try replacing Z1 first to 
see if it comes back to life.  The resonator is inexpensive, but the 
firmware IC is costly.


When the firmware is working, it will be recognized by the K2, 
regardless of any other problems that may be present with the KAT100 
operation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 10:49 AM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Thanks Don.

I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
after re-seating it a couple of times.

Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. It is "high" at all other
times. I checked this all the way to pin 40 of U1.

Should I conclude that the next step would be to replace U1?




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD]

Thanks Don.

I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
after re-seating it a couple of times.

Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. It is "high" at all other
times. I checked this all the way to pin 40 of U1.

Should I conclude that the next step would be to replace U1?

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 9:54 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
> Johnathan,
>
> Since the KAT100 is not recognized in the K2 menu, you either have a
> problem with the KAT100 firmware, but do check the cable for continuity
> of the AUXBUS signal that is used to communicate among the various
> pieces of firmware ICs throughout the K2 system.
>
> Since the KAT100 has not been in service for a while, it may be that
> there is oxidation on the KAT100 firmware IC pins.  Removing and
> reinserting the firmware IC may bring it back to life by wiping away any
> oxidation on the pins.
>
> As for the LEDs, that is also controlled by the firmware IC, so fix the
> firmware problem first, and then you can find any problems that remain.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/3/2020 11:13 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:
> > I am testing my KAT100, which had been sitting idle for a number of
> > years.  It is connected to the K2/100 via the DB9 cable as described
> > in the KAT100 manual.  The two are interconnected with a coax cable
> > and Ant1 is connected to a dummy load.
> >
> > 1. Apply power to KAT100.
> > 2. Turn on K2/100.
> > 3. Almost immediately, all LEDs on the SWR bar graph illuminate, the
> > S-meter bar graph on the K2 goes full scale, and both remain in this
> > state.  The receiver is silent. (There is no indication of any output
> > power, as if it were transmitting.)
> >
> > Pressing the ANT1-2 button on the K2 produces the "not inst" message.
> > Turning off the K2 power, all LEDs on the KAT100 remain illuminated.
> > With KAT100 powered off, K2 functions normally.
> >
> > I have verified the wiring of the DB-9 cable.  What's the next best
> > thing to check?
> >
> > Thanks
> > __
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> >
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Johnathan,

Since the KAT100 is not recognized in the K2 menu, you either have a 
problem with the KAT100 firmware, but do check the cable for continuity 
of the AUXBUS signal that is used to communicate among the various 
pieces of firmware ICs throughout the K2 system.


Since the KAT100 has not been in service for a while, it may be that 
there is oxidation on the KAT100 firmware IC pins.  Removing and 
reinserting the firmware IC may bring it back to life by wiping away any 
oxidation on the pins.


As for the LEDs, that is also controlled by the firmware IC, so fix the 
firmware problem first, and then you can find any problems that remain.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2020 11:13 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

I am testing my KAT100, which had been sitting idle for a number of
years.  It is connected to the K2/100 via the DB9 cable as described
in the KAT100 manual.  The two are interconnected with a coax cable
and Ant1 is connected to a dummy load.

1. Apply power to KAT100.
2. Turn on K2/100.
3. Almost immediately, all LEDs on the SWR bar graph illuminate, the
S-meter bar graph on the K2 goes full scale, and both remain in this
state.  The receiver is silent. (There is no indication of any output
power, as if it were transmitting.)

Pressing the ANT1-2 button on the K2 produces the "not inst" message.
Turning off the K2 power, all LEDs on the KAT100 remain illuminated.
With KAT100 powered off, K2 functions normally.

I have verified the wiring of the DB-9 cable.  What's the next best
thing to check?

Thanks
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Hi Cur

[Don Wilhelm]

Johnathan and all,

Actually it is not negative feedback for power control, but it is a 
closed circuit control loop providing positive control of the power level.
The actual power is measured at the KPA100 output and the result is sent 
to the MCU (via the VRFDET signal line) where it is compared with the 
requested power setting.  The result of that comparison is used to 
control the level of BFO injection in order to regulate the power output.


When the KPA100 wattmeter diodes are faulty, the MCU thinks there is low 
or no power output, and ramps up the drive to maximum.  The result is 
uncontrolled maximum power output.  If operated in that condition for 
some time, the base K2 PA transistors will be stressed and will 
eventually fail.  That condition also causes distortion, especially 
noted in SSB transmissions, but also increased IMD on the transmitted 
signal because the base K2 PA transistors are no longer being operated 
in a linear fashion.


With the KPA100 in the circuit, the KAT100 power sensing is not used, 
and the KAT100 wattmeter is used only to light the SWR indicators.
The KAT100 wattmeter is used if the KPA100 is not present.  The KAT2 
wattmeter is used if neither the KPA100 or KAT100 wattmeters are not 
present.  In the basic K2 (without the KAT2 or KPA100 or KAT100), there 
is an RF Detector to measure the power output, but that detector is 
dependent on the load - a 50 ohm resistivity load is assumed by the MCU 
calculation of power so it will not be correct if the load is other than 
50 ohms non-reactive.


So that is the story of how the K2 controls the power output.  The K1 
and K3/K3S use a similar system.  As far as I know, this system of power 
control is only used by some commercial transceivers and most other 
amateur transceivers simply let the operator control the drive level or 
provide only a fixed drive level.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2020 10:15 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Don,

Thanks for the tip -- that was exactly it. I checked and replaced D16
and D17 and all is well now.  (Both were showing the same voltage drop
in both directions.)  I gather from your description that the built-in
wattmeter forms a negative feedback loop with the power adjustment.

My diodes and I are definitely static-challenged -- I have had a
similar problem at least twice in the KAT100 despite my best efforts
to remember to disconnect the antenna after operating.




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