Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Issue

2015-01-30 Thread AG0N-3055

>  when I switch it from
> Stby to Oper, the level of received signals drops by around 5 or 6 s
> points. It still transmits fine and there are no adverse SWR indications or
> loose co-ax plugs. It does the same on all bands.

Sounds like bad PIN DIODE situation, but I'll let those who are more
expert at them take that on.

> I switch back to Stby and the received signals return to normal.

Just for reference, on six meters, using WSJT10 for FSK441 MS, I see one
db drop in my JT measured band (white) noise between the KPA STBY and
OPER modes.

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Re: [Elecraft] How reliable an internet connection is needed for A K3 remote to work well?

2014-07-16 Thread AG0N-3055

> Hint: Don't turn knobs like audio or power fast.  Each pulse from the knob
> is sent as a UDP packet...

I'm late to join this thread, but was curious so read a couple before
deleting.  What I bring up below may have been discussed before.

I'm not much of a network person, but I believe UDP packets are tossed
out with no error correction at all (like unproto X25 packet).  Having
lived in a packet loss environment for a long time (years) and running
IRLP, I can tell you that when a packet it lost, it is lost.  The
command, audio, whatever, will be lost and have to be repeated in order
to get it through.  As I said, this may have been discussed before and
I'm sorry for any repetition it brings.  It also causes pretty bad holes
in the audio if it is sent UDP.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 fan noise

2014-06-02 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 2 Jun 2014 06:05:22 -0700 (PDT), Harry Yingst via Elecraft
wrote:

> You could always try replacing the fan with a quieter fan.

I would consider that myself, but only with one recommended by the good
people at Elecraft.  The fan in the KPA is VERY loud when it hits the
last two speeds.  Warp and Turbo Warp would wake my wife in the next
room if she was a light sleeper, although I virtually never get it up
that warm.  It was just my short excursion on 6M FM that really got it
up there fast.  My issue isn't with the fan operation, although I wish
it would come on just a bit earlier than it does.  My issue is with the
sound level out of this particular fan.  It's a screaming banshee when
it gets up there at speed.  It's a very "raw" sound, not the sound of
air moving, but of a high speed motor.

My only hesitation with putting a different fan in it would be
compatibility with the speed control circuitry.  I just won't do it,
especially under warranty, without Elecraft's recommendation and
blessing.  They've got a good product and I want to keep it that way.

Typing this up raised my curiosity and I went to the shack and ran a
control test into my Bird load.  I set my rig at 10W on 52.525 FM, which
gives me 200W output.  With manual fan control, I made sure the amp was
cooled to 33C as a starting point, and then set the fan back to NORmal
setting.  I keyed the rig on FM at the (unmeasured) 10W setting, and sat
back to see what it did.  It took 75 seconds to reach 70C.  At which
point, the fan is at 5, a rather noisy speed.  It seemed to level out at
77-78C for a bit and then went to 80C at 4:50 minutes.  I ended the test
at that point.  At 80, the fan went to 6, the highest speed, screaming
away.  With this test, I'm confident that it would probably handle
anything I would ever do to it in normal operation, especially given the
fact that I'm not dumb enough to do that test at 500W output.  :o)  I
think the fan does a pretty good job, but do wish it was quieter.  I
never hit those higher speeds, except in test conditions like this.  My
normal use has it hitting 70C only on the rarest of occasions.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 fan noise

2014-06-01 Thread AG0N-3055

> Am I missing 
> something here or is this normal?

Sounds normal for mine.  I've recently had mine on 52.525 in an FM QSO.  I ended
up at about 250W with short transmissions.  That didn't surprise me much at all,
because my KPA seems to produce quite a bit of heat on six meters anyway.  Hit
the dummy load and do some continuous carrier testing and see how long it takes
to hit high speed.  It won't take long.  That's one screaming fan.

By the way, you can sample those speeds just by going to the menu and changing
the fan control setting.  That menu item sets the minimum speed the fan will run
(auto = off when below threshold).  One thing you might try is to set the fan to
the first or second speed (not auto) when you're operating those modes.  That
let's the fan run all the time at the speed you set, which allows it to cool in
receive mode when it might normally kick down to the off mode until you key the
next time.  Don't miss understand, the fan control menu sets the MINIMUM speed
the fan runs.  It still kicks up faster for warmer operation.

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Re: [Elecraft] Learning morse code

2014-05-30 Thread AG0N-3055

> It is funny how cw seems to have far more activity now then when it was 
> forced.

What gave you that idea?  The bands were crowded back then.  You had to
look around to find an open spot, unless you were on 80 during the day
or something like that.  These days, there's all sorts of room on the CW
bands.  So much so, that the FCC has given much of it back to the SSB
people.

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Re: [Elecraft] How to Convert Individ. Email Status to Digest?

2014-05-30 Thread AG0N-3055

> Using Digest will generate just as many messages, the only "advantage" 
> is that it comes combined in one or two emails a day rather than as 
> individual emails during that time, and I don't consider that a real 
> advantage.

Not only that, but it creates much more work for you if you see
something that you want to comment back on.  You have to edit out all of
the other messages and change the subject of your message, etc. It won't
thread right with everyone else either, because your message ID won't be
the same as the OP of that particular message your replying to.  If
there's more than one to reply to, the work is obviously multiplied
again.

Of course, we've all seen examples of those who don't bother to do any
of that and just reply to the digest message with digest subject and all
of the messages left intact.  They go on the ignore list immediately.

Single individual message filtered into a folder maintain the proper
subject and message ID and will thread properly.  You look through the
Elecraft folder and kill what you don't want, keep what you do, and
reply to what you want if you want to.  Better housekeeping, and it
doesn't cause extra work for others when your message doesn't thread
right or have the right subject line.

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Re: [Elecraft] Computers in the Stone Age

2014-05-28 Thread AG0N-3055

I know this thread is going to get tossed soon, but I'll throw this one
in, possibly under the wire.  In 1965, we had two AN/FST-2 computers at
our radar site.  Look that one up on Wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burroughs_AN/FST-2_Coordinate_Data_Transmitting_Set

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Activity in ancient 15-meter novice band (21.1 MHz)

2014-05-27 Thread AG0N-3055

> Between attending college and
> other work related responsibilities, I'm not sure that is going to happen
> before I get my KX3. 

Do it while you're young.  I suspect it would be very difficult to do
when you get older and are retired.  I know my brain is really fried
when it comes to learning new things.  I learned "the code" when I was
in Cub Scouts (flash cards), but I learned CW when I was in Jr High and
have loved CW ever since.  I retired 2 yrs ago, so learning new is rough
these days.

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna choices

2014-05-26 Thread AG0N-3055

> The 3 element is infinitely tunable and will give  you near perfect
> performance on all bands 40 and above.

> You will need a rotor.  You don't need a huge investment however, they
> work well with the commonly available Ham IV rotors.  Lots of reliable
> and attractively priced used ones on the market.

These two statements are conflicting.  If you're going to have a StepIR
that will go down to 40 meters, you aren't going to want a Ham IV on it.
That's way too light, for this country anyway.  In fact, a T-Twister
isn't enough for that.  If you were going to limit it to 30 and above, I
might go with a T-Twister, but I really feel my TH7DX tri-bander puts
mine through more than it wants.  It needs to be rebuilt now and then.
StepIRs are heavy too, at least the ones I've seen.  But you're right.
It's really nice to have the tunable frequency range

Did you follow his link?  He's got tons of space and can put up wire for
anything out to 160M dipoles, with a single support tower or pole.
Further, he can go almost any direction with wires without having to
weave in and out of tree branches, etc.  I sure wouldn't mess with
anything like a G5RV or OCF in that situation.  The gold standard basic
antenna on the lower bands is a simple half wave dipole.  He's got room
to do that down to 160M.  Why go with less?  On upper bands, a ground
plane does wonders, but a simple 3 element yagi is excellent.  

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question

2014-05-07 Thread AG0N-3055

> Is there a tremendous difference between legal limit and about half of it

One third, not a half.  The KPA is 500W.  Legal limit is 1500W.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Contest QRM

2014-04-30 Thread AG0N-3055
On Wed, 30 Apr 2014 09:16:18 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:

> Contests always avoid the WARC bands, and most contests are a single 
> mode -- CW or SSB or RTTY -- leaving lots of space for those who don't 
> enjoy them.

That's not bad, unless it is the weekend for your favorite mode, OR the other
mode spills out of its normal area of the band and takes over everything in
sight.  That happens all the time.  And I don't care what you or anyone else
says, I know and regularly hear, people just pile into areas of the band where
there is other activity, regular nets, etc.  Contest organizers should designate
a portion of the band where they will accept valid contacts, and disallow the
rest.

I know, just my opinion, but I assure you, I'm not alone.  This whole thing is
off topic for the list anyway.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] QRQ CW

2014-04-30 Thread AG0N-3055
On Wed, 30 Apr 2014 06:49:18 -0500, Kevin Stover wrote:

> Maybe if the big contest guns did the same we wouldn't have the visceral 
> anti-contest attitudes displayed, and get more people involved.

You're talking to one of the anti crowd.  It has nothing to do with
speed.  It has to do with the fact that most of us don't like the chaos
of contests, and the fact that for some reason, people seem to think
there needs to be some sort of contest every damned weekend.  Boy do I
relish the old days where there were less than a hand full of contests a
year.  The two main ones were Field Day and Sweepstakes.  If you were
into DX, there was the annual DX contest.

Contests were something SPECIAL those days, and even I took part in
them.  They were fun because they were special.  These days, there's
nothing special at all about them.  You can't even get a meaningful
signal report now.  Your 5NN, but would you repeat because you're too
weak to copy.  They are just another boring noisy weekend when you can't
enjoy the bands.

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Re: [Elecraft] Text Decode Issues

2014-04-21 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:32:59 -0400, Stephen Roberts wrote:

> Yes, and it's curious that there are clearly better decoders out there.
> I built an Open QRP rig last year and the decoder was phenomenal...
> much better than the KX3, so assuming this is a software issue, is this
> something that the Elecraft engineers are looking at?

Dumb question time.  Why don't you just learn to operate CW the way most
people do?  CW is supposed to be a manual mode.  It is an ART.  Copying
CW is a part of the tradition of amateur radio.  If you have to have
perfect CW to be decoded, it's the same as or worse than RTTY.  Your
brain can decode CW with missing characters and elements quite nicely.

Use your head!

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Re: [Elecraft] VK9MT transmit audio distortion.

2014-04-07 Thread AG0N-3055

> So short chassis-to-chassis bonding combined with a bond from 
> one of those chassis to the common point is the safest from a lightning 
> safety point of view, because it
> minimizes the loop area.

You've got a good point, Jim.  However, I would prefer a combination of
both methods.  I'd run a (good low reactance) buss, AND another to the
grounding point from each buss attachment point on each unit.  Your
point about all of the ins and outs on this stuff leaves plenty of room
for loops.  Also, any time storms approach, I pull the USB ports.  They
seem to be sensitive to such damage.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Advice on 6 meters...

2014-02-26 Thread AG0N-3055
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 10:08:46 -0800, Phil Hystad wrote:

> I have seen some comments recently about six meters and I have never operated
> six meters.  I don't really have a descent antenna for six meters, just my 
> 80-meter (ladder line fed) dipole or my hex beam that I can at least tune to 
> six
> meters.

I'd use the hex beam.  You've already had many comments on the subject,
and yes, I'm about to add mine.  Believe it or not, most of them are
true!  Ken Kopp has one of the most important ones.  Get familiar with
DXMaps web site and sign up to receive email alerts when the band opens
for North America.  As soon as someone puts a spot up for a station,
you'll be informed that it is open.  You can click on the link provided
in the email and it will show you a map of the contacts posted.  I pay
close attention to that.  You'll get lots of "openings" for people on
the east coast, or in the southern states, especially southeast.  You
just have to evaluate what you see to decide if you want to run in and
fire up the rig or not.  One thing about it, the further south you are,
the more openings you'll get.

I've been a ham since 1960, and, except for having a 6M FM mobile in the
early 70s in Montana, I'd never been on six meters until a couple of
years ago.  I picked up a used rig that had six on it and a friend about
10 miles from here called me on 2M and told me the band was open.  I
used my HF beam, a TH-7DX to get on the air and tune around.  As it
turned out, I was able to work someone!  We later had a much better
opening and I worked a ton of stations.  I was hooked.  It's just like
ten meters.  When it is open, a wet string will work for an antenna.  It
just isn't open as often as ten.

The suggestion that March through August are good months is a good one.
My first July on six SSB filled a log book.  My second year did a good
job on another, even though neither year's travel plans allowed me to
work the entire month.  I've worked transequatorially to southern Chile,
but no JAs yet.  My second year on the band, I got a note from an old
friend I hadn't talked to in years and he cussed me out for working KL7
before him.  He had been on for over 20 yrs and never worked KL or KH. I
worked two KLs in less than a week, followed by two KHs.

The recommendation to not go too large on the antenna is a good one.
Directionality becomes a problem when you are in the monitor mode.  You
need to be able to hear signals that come in from all directions, just
in case.  I'm lacking that here, but I do have a good takeoff angle
almost 360 degrees.  I'm currently running a 5 element so-so antenna at
60 feet.  With my KPA500, it talks pretty darned well.  You would do
well to put up a more omnidirectional antenna for monitoring.
 
> The band is always dead quiet with the small exception of some noise
> spikes here and there but very rare.

This is pretty normal.  However, it does give you a chance to hunt up
some noise sources if you have any.  Power line noise, and junk like
that can really have negative effect on your enjoyment of any band,
especially six, where you have to be there and be ready to pounce as
soon as you hear something.  Openings can last from seconds to hours.

> Question:  is there any activity for six meters that I should invest
> in a nice multi-element 6 meter bean antenna?

Start small (3-ele) for now.  It is pretty much assumed that we are on
the downhill slope of the sunspot cycle and the band will likely be open
less and less for awhile.  Plus, you are more likely to hear something
off the side or back of the antenna when a signal comes in from the
wrong direction.

> My most dominant operating mode would be CW but maybe some SSB from time to
> time.  I have no idea what's there as this band has always been blank to me.

CW is alive and well on six, but not nearly as much as SSB.

Sign up for the emails from Sherlock (DXMaps) and get ready.  We just
had a short opening to SoCal a couple weeks ago with good strong
signals.  You never know when it will open.

Gary - AG0N
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Re: [Elecraft] Update on KAT500/KPA500 firmware tweaks

2014-01-31 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 31 Jan 2014 09:07:53 -0800, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> We're getting excellent reports from several customers who are testing new 
> KAT500 and KPA500 firmware. (The changes mainly pertain to fault indications 
> and incorrect re-tuning.) We hope to get this code to beta early next week.

Wayne,

My KPA/KAT (1061/1255) combo had performed quite well since installing
the KAT.  I have been quite happy with it.  However it did retune on me
for an unknown reason the other day.  Just to note that fact.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks

2014-01-27 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 14:27:59 -0600, Dave Perry wrote:

> Steve,
> 
> My KPA500 also has the clicks and pops as it heats up and expands.

I'm rather curious about this clicking people are talking about.  I have
SN 1255 and have heard none of what is being described.  I've purposely
heated it from cool to in the 70s where the fan kicks into warp speed.
At first I was ready to jump in with my "clicking" experience, but it
was true clicking, not ticking that others seem to be describing.

My clicking experience was rather short lived and I attributed it to a
poor RF situation with my six meter antenna.  For a short time, I would
sometimes get a relay click and rather high VSWR indicated when on six.
I replaced a few jumper cables and all was well again, including the
output of the KPA.  It got even better when I got that Mother's Fine
Junque tuner out of the circuit and installed the KAP.  It's nice to see
just about the same reflected in both units now on the lower bands.
Before, I could get the tuner to show zero reflected, but the amp
didn't.  Sometimes I would slightly off-tune the tuner to get the amp
down better.  Don't get me wrong.  All readings were under 1.5:1.

Anyway, I sure haven't heard any heatsink ticking at all, even when it
was brand new.

Just another person's experience for reference.

Gary - AG0N
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 Mobile Operations -- Power Output

2014-01-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 12 Jan 2014 14:35:46 -0700, Gary McDuffie 
wrote:

On Sun, 12 Jan 2014 20:53:01 + (UTC), amsct...@comcast.net wrote:

> Commercial vehicles, in fact almost all modern over-the-road vehicles, emit 
> all kinds of RF noise. OEM's primary noise concerns relate to broadcast 
> bands, and they're not really concerned about anything else. Believe me, as I 
> spend a couple a days a month in Detroit OEM's EMC chambers. 

Every time I pass a semi on the highway, I can hear junk coming from the
engine computer, or something, on VHF.  It does have a carrier and isn't
just injectors.  That's an additional noise.  It doesn't matter what
repeater freq I'm monitoring, squelch is open from just about the cab
door until I'm clear of his bumper.  Pretty trashy.  I don't know how
some of these truckers run VHF gears in them.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500, KPA500, KAT3 - tests done

2014-01-10 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 10:33:35 -0700, Gary McDuffie 
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 07:09:42 -0500, Bill W2BLC wrote:

> I have talked to a couple of local hams with K-Lines about the problem. 
> They have experienced the same KAT500 retuning problem, but wrote it off 
> as the tuner being overly sensitive to "stray RF." This make me curious 
> as to how widespread this problem actually is and how many users just 
> accept the problem?

What firmware are you using?  I JUST got my KAT and installed it
yesterday morning.  Mine is V1.41.  I have used it some on a couple of
bands and it has not shown any of these characteristics.  However, since
it is a mere babe and has little experience, I will be very watchful of
the details of operation.  This thing is SOO much better than
Mississippi's Finest!  So far, I love it.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Power Poles

2013-12-11 Thread AG0N-3055
On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:15:45 -0500, Bill W2BLC wrote:

> I have all kinds of "proper" crimpers. They do a good job in many cases. 
> I have never been a fan of crimped RF connectors for VHF/UHF, however, 
> most commercial installers use them with great success. Remember, those 
> connections usually only need lives of a couple of years. In hamdom I 
> build things to last for many years, so I do not have to revisit 
> anything down the road.
> 
> Hence, I crimp when I have the proper tool - then solder that same 
> connector. Only takes a few seconds and guarantees it will last as long 
> as I will. Do I like PowerX for DC connections in the shack? Not at all. 
> I much prefer crimped and soldered spade clips with screw terminal power 
> strips.  May take a little longer to hook things up, but it is sure solid.
>   Won't come apart with a slight tug either.
> 
> I also still measure power supply quality by weight.

Amen!  In some cases, I'm using coax with connectors that I installed in
the 60s!  You bet they are soldered, center AND shield.  Power supply
leads the same.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/RemoteRig - external speaker

2013-12-02 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 2 Dec 2013 11:41:31 -0500, Jim - KE8G wrote:

> I am curious what external speakers folks are using with the K3/RemoteRig
> combination.  Currently, I am using a set of Radiosport headphones, but 
> ther are times I would like to monitor things with having to sit in front
> of the radio.

I know this is not what you asked, however, it may be of interest to you
or someone else reading it.

IF you are using modern hearing aids, there are now blue-tooth links
available for shoving your stereo or TV directly to your hearing aids. I
use mine every morning when I get up to link the shack to me while I fix
breakfast.  It is very useful.  The same link can be used for cell phone
linking (all without wires), etc.  If you happen to be hearing impaired,
you may want to look into it.  I go through three perpendicular walls to
get to the kitchen from the shack, at a distance of about 50 feet.  A
fourth wall is at a very shallow angle to the path, and also gone
through.  I can go about 25 feet further than the kitchen, as long as I
wear the pendant on the side of my body that faces the shack.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 04:12:54 -0500, W4GRJ wrote:

> I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on my 
> boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I 
> have almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the boat.

Which has nothing to do with this application.  A boat is like a car. In
the shack and with solar power, they charge and never have a large
current discharge put on them like a starter motor.

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[Elecraft] (fwd) Re: Internal SWR Readings

2013-11-13 Thread AG0N-3055
On Wed, 13 Nov 2013 13:59:14 -0500, W2RU - Bud Hippisley wrote:

> If a transmission line is lossy, the SWR will get progressively lower as you 
> move closer to the transmitter.  In an extreme case (such as 1000 feet of old 
> RG-58 or worse, at high enough frequencies), there will be so much loss in 
> the line that EVERY antenna will look like 50 ohms back at the transmitter 
> and the SWR will be 1:1 there!  So the transmitter end of the line is the 
> LEAST useful end to look at SWR.

Correct.  If the line is long (lossy) enough, a dead short will look
fine at the transmitter end.

I wish Smith charts had been spoken of and understood back when I got
started.  To this day, I do not understand them in the least.  I wish I
did.  I am one who, most of the time, can no longer read something in
text and transform it to new knowledge.  It needs to be 'splained to me
in a one on one dialog.  SWR was measured by taping a short piece of
twinlead (more to it than that) against your line and looking to see
which light bulb lit up the strongest.  :o)  The RF ammeter was used for
peaking output.

Off I go to try again to find another explanation of Smith charts.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: Proper installation of PL 259's

2013-11-13 Thread AG0N-3055
On Wed, 13 Nov 2013 09:40:02 -0500, Tommy wrote:

>  If you want to know something
> about antennas/feed lines, try  www.towertalk.com  which is the correct
> place for this PL259 thread in the first place. If you don't know where to
> look for information, ASK!

Ah!  But, just how many of those young (and old) whippersnappers didn't
know there could be such a difference between proper and poor PL
installation before this topic expanded?  There were several.  Did it go
on way too long?  You bet.  But that's the way the great Internet works
these days, and you and I have extended it just a couple more lines
worth.  :o)  You have to know there is a problem before you can ask how
to fix it.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's

2013-11-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:00:41 -0800, Vic K2VCO wrote:

> The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without damaging the 
> braid and then 
> tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun) makes it 
> easy to tin 
> without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the tinned 
> braid with a 
> tubing cutter.

But just removing the insulating sheath allows the braid to expand to
larger diameter, causing it to catch on the inside of the connector in
many/most cases.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Importance of good coaxial jumpers

2013-11-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 10:21:02 -0500, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

> The big 
> Weller  D550 guns (250/325 watt) are not temperature controlled but can make 
> heat a lot quicker.

That's my weapon of choice too.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Importance of good coaxial jumpers

2013-11-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:49:35 -0500, Eugene Balinski wrote:

> The 25W do not work well and tend to melt the center
> conductor.

Melt the center conductor?  If you mean melt the dielectric around the
center pin in the coax, you are using the wrong connector.  It should
not melt or sag when hot!

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's

2013-11-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 11 Nov 2013 22:23:37 -0800, Frank Precissi wrote:

> Glad this topic came up, because im about to redo all my pre-made cables
> and its one of those topics that people like me are afraid to ask because
> they are sorta newbie-ish (cue the "You should have learned this before you
> got your ticket" grumps).
> 
> What is your opinion of this method:
> 
> http://www.k3lr.com/engineering/pl259/

I wouldn't touch that method with a (your) ten foot pole.  You have a
very weak point at the point of entry into the PL.  A few flexes of the
coax, and your shield will be broken and non-existent.  Solder through
the holes and allow the black sheath to reinforcingly hold the coax in
the connector.  It should only be trimmed back far enough to clear the
holes.

I've never been able to use the tinned shield method.  Too many stray
wires, and/or too large to freely enter the center of the connector
without catching.  I also don't like the idea of enlarging the holes in
the PL, although that seems the least undesirable of the things people
have mentioned.  If you do, at least make sure there are no burrs on the
inside to catch the braid as you thread the coax into the hole.

While on the subject, someone mentioned not being able to get the tip of
the gun (I use a gun) into the channel where the holes are.  Why not? My
300+ watt tip isn't that large.  It should fit fine.  You do NOT put the
tip into the holes themselves.  You heat the outer until the folder will
freely flow between outer, shield, and (if using one) UG reducer.

Make sure solder is FLOWING, not just sitting there stuck on some piece
of flux or something.  It should flow from one hole to the next IN the
shield.

Someone mentioned the word waterproof.  PLs are NOT waterproof.  The
best you can do is to make sure moisture can't get into your connection
on either side of your connector.  Fully seal several inches either
side, multiple layers.  I haven't used it in years, but I used to use
Scotch Kote.  A layer of 33 or 88 tape, Scotch Kote, and another layer
of tape, each one extending beyond the last layer does a pretty good job
and you'll pull brand new connections out of it 10-20 years later.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Spectrogram download site

2013-11-08 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 08 Nov 2013 09:18:33 -0700, k6xt wrote:

> Get rid of the virus called Norton Anti-Virus. Install the free version 
> of Avast or AVG. That'll do it, and protect you as well. Also use 
> Malawarebytes.

Not bad advice.  Norton is extremely hard to remove by yourself.
Add/remove does not do it.  You need to go to Norton's site and pull a
program that removes it (at least it says it does) from all of the
registry entries and cleans things up.  I still have it on one of my
computers, because it is needed for some other things.  But, I've gone
with AVG on everything else.  Norton has WAY too much overhead and slows
the computer down considerably.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Spectrogram download site

2013-11-08 Thread AG0N-3055
On Thu, 7 Nov 2013 22:14:17 -0600, Chris Ishmael wrote:

> Does anyone know specifically where I can download Spectrogram? All the 
> downloads
> I find just lead to pop-ups to third party download sites with unrelated 
> garbage
> software. I can't even find Spectrogram's website, is it even a current 
> supported
> program? 

I had the same problem.  It insisted that 7zip be installed.  I had used
it long ago, so trusted it.  WRONG.  It took awhile to remove all of the
crap it put on the computer.  I think I counted 5 programs that were
installed, all of which run and make changes to your system.  

By the way, Norton had no issues with it.  See other comments about
them.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Remote control problem & question

2013-11-04 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 4 Nov 2013 08:22:32 -0800, Rick Tavan N6XI wrote:

> If a ping fails
> to respond, the switch counts failures until a user-set number that
> suggests the network is down. At that point it cycles power on a designated
> outlet.

This is a very nice feature, and could easily be worth the bucks to save
a trip for manual intervention should the network fail.  There are more
and more remote controlled stations these days, and this feature should
be on all of them.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Fan Control from KPA500 Utility?

2013-10-17 Thread AG0N-3055
On Thu, 17 Oct 2013 12:27:53 -0700 (PDT), W5UXH wrote:

>  I tested first with ^FC3; since that is the highest
> minimum speed I want and at first thought it did not work because of other
> noises in the shack.  But ^FC5; left no doubt!

But why not let the thermostatic controller do its thing?  And, if it is
kicking up to high speed in a QSO, you must be doing some very high duty
cycle QSOs, i.e. talking continuously or working AM with long
transmissions.  Mine never seems to go above about 4, when pushing
things a bit, unless I'm on 6M, then it will run a bit higher during
long ones.  What does your thermometer read normally?  Mine occasionally
goes above 51C, where the first audible fan noise appears, but very
quickly drops off after that.  I also monitor the exhaust temp with an
electronic sensor in the grill of the fan.  I'm quite surprised how cool
things run in the auto mode (norm).  Temps will run higher if you are
running some reflected power too.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 in the RTTY Contest

2013-09-30 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 30 Sep 2013 15:27:13 -0400, Claude Du Berger wrote:

> Irwin, I ran mine at 500W for 20 hrs. 1268 QSO fan speed fixe at 4
> and no problem. 60% of the time in RUN/CQ mode.

FYI, that is NOT a fixed speed.  It is just the minimum speed that it
will run instead of ramping down to the lowest or off when it cools
down.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Off Topic -- Yagi Antenna SWR measurement ?

2013-07-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 12 Jul 2013 07:50:43 -0700, Phil Hystad wrote:

> Question:  is this accurate or does the proximity of ground (maybe two feet 
> high)
> so strongly affect the SWR reading that the measurement is not accurate.

Not accurate at all.  Most manufacturers say to stand the beam up so it
is pointed straight up into the sky, reflector down, to do such checks.
I still don't trust that, but is better than having it parallel to the
ground.  Keep everything (including yourself) away from the elements
during the test.  Get it out in a clear yard, as far from wires and
buildings as possible and point it into the sky.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 in Contest Conditions

2013-07-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 12 Jul 2013 08:48:52 -0500, Richard Thorne wrote:

> Hows the KPA-500 holding up under contest conditions for SSB and CW?
> 
> I've read the reviews on eham but there was only one that referenced 
> performance in contest conditions (and it was favorable).
> 
> I'm curious if the temp stays down and if power is lost as it heats up?

In contest situation, you might not get it as hot as a long winded rag
chew transmission.  I don't contest, but I've gotten it hot enough that
it hits the high speed fan mode.

I would expect a slight sag when it gets hot, but would head off the
heat by going into the menu and changing the fan control from NORM to 3
or 4 (depending on your condx) to keep higher minimum fan speed.  That
fan is a screamer when it hits 70C.  Don't forget to take it back to
NORM when the contest is over.  That will save a lot of wear and tear on
the fan.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 display now blank? Help

2013-07-03 Thread AG0N-3055
On Wed, 3 Jul 2013 10:48:46 -0700 (PDT), Gene N4FZ wrote:

> wow it just now started
> displaying again. What could be causing this? 

What did the factory say?

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] How to reply to specific post on the reflector?

2013-06-21 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 21 Jun 2013 10:24:57 -0400, W2RU - Bud Hippisley wrote:

> Basically, the English language should prevail.   "Reply" clearly refers to 
> the sender, not the medium.  "Reply All" means exactly what it says.  I hope 
> the list moderator will keep it just the way it is.

This is dead wrong and impolite.  The originator asked THE GROUP,
and the reply need to go to the group.  There is no reason to assume
that the originator is the only person who wants to hear the answer.
Otherwise, the list would operate in such a way that when you subscribe,
you receive a listing of those who are also subscribed.  You pick a call
who you think might know the answer to your question and send them a
personal note and he replies back to you.  Pretty stupid isn't it.  Even
if you think it is a dumb question that you have to ask, I guarantee you
that there is someone like you who also doesn't know the answer and
didn't post the question but is anxiously waiting for someone to answer
it so he will know too.

This list owner happens to want it this way (apparently), so we have to
put up with it.

>  Too many impolitic e-mails intended for a single individual have received 
> bulk distribution via reflectors set up so that "Reply" sends it to the group.

That's part of the group environment and public sharing of information.
Do you read the paper to see one item only?  No, you read the paper to
see what is new and what is interesting.  Ever pick up the paper and see
something that surprised you and you were glad you saw it?  That's what
groups/lists are for.  You cheat everyone else out of the answer and
also future searchers for information are deprived of having the answers
to their questions by not allowing the answers to be public.



Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Homebrew amplifiers (OT)

2013-05-28 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 28 May 2013 20:06:02 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Fantastic looking 813 amp Vic. I'm jealous! 

Same!  Loved my old carbon plate 813s back in '64.  They would take the
abuse for sure!

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 question about cooling

2013-05-27 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 27 May 2013 09:31:23 -0400, Richard Gillingham wrote:

> "IMPORTANT:  Provide at least 2 inches (5 cm) clearance behind the
> fan and above the amplifier for proper air flow."
> 
> Nuf said.

Roger that!  And yes, the fan makes PLENTY of noise when it kicks up to
high speed.  It isn't enough that my cardioid mic picks it up, but it
blows the curtain about 2 feet behind it.  :o)

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 andKAT500 schematics available?

2013-05-23 Thread AG0N-3055
On Thu, 23 May 2013 01:44:05 -0500, Mike Schultz wrote:

> I wonder if schematics are 
> published like the K3's are.  I don't see them on the website.  If not 
> published, are they at least supplied with the kits?

I bought a KPA500.  There was no diagram on the web site, and none was
supplied.  However, I promptly received one in PDF format when I asked
about it.

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Elevated vs. Buried Radials

2013-05-19 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 19 May 2013 22:59:50 +0200, Ralf Wilhelm wrote:

> Obviously the "counterpoise" was missing (or in my words the capacitance of 
> the case to ground was not high enough). I could not test if plugging the 
> headphones in and using them is sufficient to increase the capacitance 
> sufficiently ;-)

Sounds to me like you don't have your radio properly grounded (earthed?)
in the first place.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 SWR issues when running through powered-off KPA500

2013-05-07 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 7 May 2013 09:24:00 -0700, Chris Rutkowski wrote:

> This behavior is mildly annoying and doesn't seem right.

Just for the record, I recently had a one-time occurrence of this sort
of thing.  It was on 6 meters and the reflected power into the TS-590
was quite high.  That was something I didn't expect, so didn't check
input SWR quite as quickly as I should have.  I simply noticed the
output power on the radio was less than half and wouldn't go up.  When I
did look at the SWR reading at the radio, it was high inline, as well as
in stby, and (I believe) power off (front panel).  I checked other
bands, all good.  Came back to 6M, and it was too.  ???

This brings up another thing.  With the pin-diode switching, the antenna
analyzer is not happy at all, especially on six.  It is useless for
looking at the antenna through the amp.  One could say "of course", but
it just needs to be noted that there are devices inline, even when
turned "off" or stby.

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Re: [Elecraft] A Different View--K3 Reduced-bandwidth RTTY Analysis

2013-03-25 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 25 Mar 2013 12:59:39 -0700, Hank Garretson wrote:

> Andy, K0SM has a very nice look at the K3 reduced-bandwidth FSK keying.
> (Now available to all as Beta DSP rev. 2.8.)
> 
> http://www.frontiernet.net/~aflowers/k3beta/

I'm not a K3 owner, but that is quite impressive.  Very well done.   I'm
wondering if there is any work being done along those lines for CW?

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Fan Power Connection Issue

2013-03-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 12 Mar 2013 13:51:46 -0700 (PDT), Bill Wiehe wrote:

> I believe the issue you describe is the same one I am in the process of 
> correcting in that the power connection for the fan would not seat properly. 
> I called Elecraft and spoke with a tech and we determined that the pins had 
> an over run of solder down into the channel blocking full seating of the 
> connector around the pins.

If I had been able to force the pins into the connector enough to go
flush the way it should have been, the pins would have been sticking out
of the connector along side the wires at the top!  :o)

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Re: [Elecraft] (fwd) Re: KPA500 Fan Power Connector issue

2013-03-12 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 12 Mar 2013 13:39:46 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Tighe, there should be no problem with leaving them as they are. That's just
> a power connection to the fans, and as long as everything fit physically
> leaving a little pin exposed is fine. 
> 
> Several people reported  this situation on the reflector some time ago.
> Apparently some boards were fabricated with slightly over-length pins. 

I just didn't care for the exposed area.  Under "certain circumstances",
they could be more susceptible to an accidental short.  It should cause
no problem otherwise.  It was just a matter of neatness for me.

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[Elecraft] (fwd) Re: KPA500 Fan Power Connector issue

2013-03-12 Thread AG0N-3055
Had to forward this again due to the stupid reply to that assigned on
this list.  :o(


On Tue, 12 Mar 2013 06:50:54 -0600, Gary McDuffie 
wrote:

On Tue, 12 Mar 2013 05:12:45 -0700 (PDT), k2np wrote:

> I had the exact same issue. It looks like pins in the manual are probably
> shorter than they are in the latest kits.  I put it on 2/3rds of the way and
> it seemed to 'latch' in place. I finished assembling the kit and the fan was
> working so I figured that was good enough.

Same on my kit I built recently.  I corresponded with Elecraft and sent
a picture of the length and how far the plug was lacking of being fully
inserted and was told to cut off the pins.  Just make sure you have a
good penetration of the female socket on the wire when you insert it.
Cut off excess and be done with it.  I have pix if you want to see how
long mine was.  Look back in the archives and I think you'll find my
posting that tells how much too long it was.  The pins are very long
coming out of the board.

Gary
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[Elecraft] (fwd) Re: KPA500 AC Power

2013-02-25 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 24 Feb 2013 06:32:12 -0800 (PST), Bill Wiehe wrote:

> Any advantage to using "220V" vs "110V" to power the KPA500?

Absolutely.  Less current through the wires, lower current in the xfmr, lower
impedance power source, etc.  If it is available, use the 230 line.

Gary
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[Elecraft] (fwd) Re: Can I switch between Operate/Standby from the K3?

2013-02-11 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 11 Feb 2013 13:25:37 -0700, Gary McDuffie 
wrote:

On Mon, 11 Feb 2013 11:17:54 -0700, RANDY DIDDEL wrote:

> To clarify, I just would like to be able to switch to/from Barefoot at
> the K3 without having to reach way over and down every time.

I don't understand how/why you would want to put an active piece of
electronics out of reach/sight of the operating position-especially
something powerful like an amplifier.  You don't know if it is operating
properly if you can't see the metering.  I'd at least have computer
monitoring and probably control.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - Rx Attenuation

2013-02-10 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 10 Feb 2013 18:08:15 -0500, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

> This is normal as the KPA500 is designed to attenuate signals the further
> you go below the 160M band in order to protect the T/R switching diodes 
> from BC band overload. 

Thanks, Eric.  Interesting.  Is there a way to eliminate the small loss
that remains in the ham bands?  I haven't measured it in db yet, but it
does exist.  I need to see if I can find any of my fixed attenuators to
compare.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - Rx Attenuation

2013-02-10 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sat, 09 Feb 2013 21:23:40 -0700, AG0N-3055 wrote:

> On Sat, 9 Feb 2013 19:51:09 -0800 (PST), John K3TN wrote:
> 
> > I thought 40M signals sounded kinda low, and the noise floor on the P3  was
> > down - but then noticed when I turned the KP!500 from OPER to STBY, signals
> > came about 15db. No fault indicated. TX power seems fine. Any thoughts?
> 
> I'm currently investigating a similar problem.  To speak to your issue, I have
> not seen it at all.  However, there is something similar happening on the
> frequencies below 160M.  

At this point, I cannot duplicate what you saw.  But...

I've just made a fairly extensive test run on all bands (except 60M)
because of my <160M problem mentioned above.  At first, I only checked
the AM broadcast band and lower, but then thought maybe I should check
all of the bands and did so, all the way to six meters.

Since I retired and lost access to the IFR to generate reliable signals
for testing, I used some local/regional AM broadcast signals for that
portion of the spectrum.  To check the frequencies under the BC band, I
used local/regional LF air-nav beacons.  The frequencies below the
broadcast band were where the problem was initially discovered,
specifically 60KHz WWVB.

To keep sensitivity of the meter fairly high, I kept the strength below
S-9 for all readings, except one or two more local broadcast stations. I
did it with either the attenuator, or tuning to the edge of a filter in
a couple of places.  I also have the XG3, so used it for all of the
later readings on all ham bands (again, I didn't check 60M).  When using
the XG3, I used 50uv signal with attenuator on for about an S-7 reading
on most bands.

Be aware that the S-meter calibration on the TS-590 is not 6db per
S-unit below S-9.  This is a personal aggravation, but most of the
manufacturers seem to have a similar problem.  

Generally, in all of the ham bands, I can see ONE BAR of S-meter drop on
the TS-590 when putting the KPA into OPERate VS STandBY.  That's not a
scientific measurement, just an observable change.  It is also pretty
insignificant, but it is very repeatable so does exist.  In some cases
there was no noticeable drop, so I slid off to the edge of the filter
and adjusted for one 10Hz step above the threshold of the S-meter bar
being lit and then put the amp in OPER position to see the change. There
was always a change, but sometimes I had to make that tweak to see it.

The spectrum below 160 meters is much more drastic.  Broadcast signals
suffer lots of signal loss, air-nav signals disappear except for locals,
and 60KHz WWVB is totally missing, along with all noise of any kind from
the antenna.  Switching the antenna in and out, had no effect on noise,
not even a pop is heard in the speaker when switching antennas or
disconnecting connectors when the amp is in OPER position.  In STBY, all
sounds normal.

Generally speaking, the broadcast band could be summed up by saying, the
lower in frequency you go, the more loss you are going to see when
switching the amp in and out.  It varies from an S-unit or two, to
several S-units at the bottom of the band.  Below that, it gets much
worse.  Only the strongest signals get through in the 250-350KHz range,
and just about nothing makes it below that.

One might ask why not just turn the amp off when not listening to the
ham bands.  Well, because I shouldn't have to, for one thing.  For
another, I don't always remember to.

These results are also being sent to support.  I don't know if there is
a pin-diode problem on mine, or if this is to be expected.  I don't like
it, but can obviously live with it if there's nothing to be fixed.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 - Rx Attenuation

2013-02-09 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sat, 9 Feb 2013 19:51:09 -0800 (PST), John K3TN wrote:

> I thought 40M signals sounded kinda low, and the noise floor on the P3  was
> down - but then noticed when I turned the KP!500 from OPER to STBY, signals
> came about 15db. No fault indicated. TX power seems fine. Any thoughts?

I'm currently investigating a similar problem.  To speak to your issue, I have
not seen it at all.  However, there is something similar happening on the
frequencies below 160M.  

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT} Whole House Surge Protection

2013-02-01 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 1 Feb 2013 11:59:00 -0600, Richard Fjeld wrote:

> I built a box with an AC relay that locks up through it's own contacts.

Did the same thing, except that the path also goes through a timer relay
that doesn't energize the AC path relay until power has been on for at
least 30 seconds without interruption.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT} Whole House Surge Protection

2013-01-31 Thread AG0N-3055
On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 16:42:04 -0700, Erik Basilier wrote:

Erik,

> My questions for the group: Do you have whole house surge protection
> installed, especially with a high leg electrical system?

My answer won't help you a bit, because, as you already know, you have
an abnormal installation.

However, I do use whole house and I use more than one.  There is one at
the entrance where the buried cable comes out of the ground and enters
the house.  There is a second one at the old entrance that is fed
directly by the new underground entrance via long line.  Third, there is
another one located at the shack 230 line that I ran from the old
entrance when I first bought the house.  All of these units are standard
220-0-220 units, none are poly-phase.

I've been using them for some 40 years.  A tidbit of info for you.
General Electric units used to cost $30 each.  I was charged over $120
for the last one I bought.  When I questioned it, I was told that the
prices shot up when the marketing department got hold of the product.
That was many years ago.

I paid no attention to the warranty.  I don't expect them to do a thing
about it if there is any damage.  I just bought the best protection I
could afford at the time.  I wouldn't pay today's prices you quote.
Insurance is cheaper.

> Would it make sense to install the unit at the old panel
> instead of selling it?

It does to me, but then I am not worried about the wording of the
warranty, and I don't have a poly-phase installation where voltages are
odd.

All of the above is my OPINION, and could be incorrect technically.
YMMV.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Lee's HiJack Mail

2013-01-31 Thread AG0N-3055
On Thu, 31 Jan 2013 08:43:35 -0800 (PST), tnny...@yahoo.com wrote:

> OPENING suspecting LINKS is giving the spammers the ability to use your 
> address book as they wish. 

With some people, Milverton, they don't know enough to know that
something is suspect!  Some are too trusting, and assume that because it
says it is from uncle Fred, that uncle Fred actually sent it, and Fred
doesn't have a mean bone in his body.  There is more than one hint in
these recent messages, including the address itself, and the fact that
it is usually just a one liner indicating that you have to go to a
linked site to see something.

Get street smart when it comes to the internet.  I still maintain, that
it is like driving, flying, and other things.  Some people just "don't
belong" on the internet.  And that's not to point a finger at ANYONE
specifically.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Post to the group

2013-01-28 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:57:26 -0900, Edward R Cole wrote:

> It may surprise you to know that dial-up internet access is still 
> prevalent in many areas of Alaska (also no internet access along with 
> no telephone or cell phone and no roads are also prevalent but this 
> is where humans are also not prevalent).
> 
> My parent's farm home in Michigan only had 51 kB/s dial-up service as 
> none of the wireless networks would reach them (no cableTV or 
> DSL).  So there may be more than one thinks!

It might also surprise people to know that many "more civilized" areas
of the US have limited speed (but I don't know what that has to do with
this thread).  My wireless is 30K down and 256 up.  Dialup/backup is
21.2 at the best.  Cable/DSL, non-existent.  Not everyone lives in the
city.

At least you take the time to properly change the subject and edit out
the extra stuff not pertinent to the thread.  I hate it when subject
says Re: Digest #, etc., and has 500 lines of non-edited content.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] Post to the group

2013-01-28 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 27 Jan 2013 20:52:29 -0500, Bill Clarke wrote:

> Replies to posts should be to the group - NOT sent as private emails. 
> Private emails are not seen by the group, hence no one in the group can 
> learn anything or hear what is being said on a particular subject.

Absolutely.  Apparently those words fall on deaf ears, even when directed to
those who control it.  This is the only group (of many) that I belong to that
does this, and it is very inconvenient and rude to the rest of the group.  Many
more key presses/mouse clicks to change the addr to the group in my mailer.

Gary

P.S.  This is the first posting that I've actually thought to change the address
on without first letting it go only to the OP by mistake.
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Hole in front panel?

2013-01-07 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 8 Jan 2013 01:30:37 +, Wright, Robert wrote:

>  I can find no mention of this in the manual or on the forums.

Check the construction manual...downloadable from the site.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Hole in front panel?

2013-01-07 Thread AG0N-3055
On Tue, 8 Jan 2013 01:30:37 +, Wright, Robert wrote:

> My recent factory assembled KPA500 has a hole in the front panel between the 
> power button and the fault light.  I can find no mention of this in the 
> manual or on the forums.
> 
> Does anybody know what this is?  Perhaps a hard reset?

"Speaker" for the audible alarm.  It is a "young person's" alarm though.
The frequency is too high for anyone with nerve damaged ears.  They
could replace it with one that is lower in frequency.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Firmware loading VERY long

2013-01-07 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 6 Jan 2013 17:09:19 -0600, Bill K9YEQ wrote:

>  Looks like communications really
> aren't working between devices.  


For the OP, upload to the KPA takes a minute or two.  I didn't time it.
The progress bar just kept moving, so I was happy.  It's not making it
if it takes a long time.  Did mine last night.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Firmware loading VERY long

2013-01-06 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 06 Jan 2013 19:12:31 -0500, Ray Sills wrote:

> I don't expect Eric or Wayne will change the list policy.

Apparently not.  They haven't answered my question about it last week.  


Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Firmware loading VERY long

2013-01-06 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 06 Jan 2013 18:58:46 -0500, Ken Wagner K3IU wrote:

> Perhaps you should click on Reply All  
> rather than Reply.

In 20 yrs of email, I've never needed to use reply all, and I don't
intend to begin now.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Firmware loading VERY long

2013-01-06 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sun, 6 Jan 2013 17:09:19 -0600, Bill K9YEQ wrote:

> Looks like communications really
> aren't working between devices.  

Why is it this list insists on responding to the poster and not the
list  EVERY TIME I reply, it goes to a single person and has to be
reposted for the group.

For the OP, upload to the KPA takes a minute or two.  I didn't time it.
The progress bar just kept moving, so I was happy.  It's not making it
if it takes a long time.  Did mine last night.

Gary
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[Elecraft] KPA-500 construction problem/question

2013-01-03 Thread AG0N-3055
I received my KPA recently as a kit.  Assembly has gone well to this
point.  However, I cannot get the fan connector to slide down over the
very long pins on the PC board.  They insert and feel like they should,
and like they are engaging properly with the pins, but it lacks 5mm of
going on flush with the plastic to plastic contact.  The pins appear to
be twice as long as they should be.  I could clip them, but won't do it
until I know that's what I should do in case I'm doing something else
wrong.  I have pushed and wiggled so hard that I am flexing the board
more than I want while trying to get the connector mated.

Anyone else have words on this?  Yes, it is the right connector (P7).

Gary - AG0N
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with a K3 screw

2012-12-28 Thread AG0N-3055
On Fri, 28 Dec 2012 11:51:52 -0800 (PST), Bayard Coolidge wrote:

> I mentioned the issue
> to my XYL to see if she'd seen any black fingernail polish, and she
> wondered why clear polish (e.g., Sally's Beauty Supply "Hard As Nails")
> wouldn't be more feasible/desireable...

I've used clear for decades.  Helps keep things where you put them. Most
all military stuff I used to work on had red or Glyptal on threads to
keep them tight.

Gary
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Re: [Elecraft] New Output Power Issue

2012-12-25 Thread AG0N-3055
On Mon, 24 Dec 2012 13:58:35 -0500, Brian Alsop wrote:

> The first rule in troubleshooting is to unplug everything that isn't 
> absolutely necessary to the equipment being diagnosed.
> 
> In this case all that would be needed is power, ant/dummy load and the K3.

Absolutely.  Make sure you use good quality connectors, cables, etc.  If
possible, plug the wattmeter directly into the RF output on the back of
the rig (NOT the tuner or amplifier), using a double male if possible,
and plug the PROPER, good quality dummy load directly into the
wattmeter.

Remember, every connector you go through, loses you fraction of a db.
How many connections, cables, etc., does it take to equal one db of
loss?  Not too many.  One db is 26%!  If you lose 1db getting between
the output port and the load, the load will only see 74W with 100W
output from the transmitter.  Something to think about.  A typical old
style tuner will lose you around 5 watts or more.

Gary
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